Reporting in from the Camino Less Traveled

[sabbott]

This was my first day on the Camino Invierno. I'd describe it as having a plot line right out of a 3 Stooges movie, with me playing the starring roles--but with beautiful background scenery!

To set the stage, picture me wandering the streets of Ponferrada for an hour, searching for the municipal albergue and first Camino Invierno marker.

(I'll put suggestions for updates to your excellent PDF in parenthesis, Laurie. I think it's entirely possible that few people are as challenged by following written directions as I am, so take my notes with a grain of salt...)

Ponferrado to Toral de Merayo
It felt weird stepping out of the Camino Frances river, which just sweeps you along in a tide of arrows, albergues, bars and fellow pilgrims, and go my own way on the Invierno. But as soon as I crossed the bridge, and saw the lovely gardens by the river, I felt better.
The walk out of Ponferrada on a footpath that goes higher and higher, a sheer drop to the river on one side, wildflowers and flowering shrubs on the other, is beautiful.

Toral de Merayo
Just as I was thinking that the locals didn't seem very friendly to the weird looking person in the rain poncho (me), the woman behind the counter in the tienda came running out with a smile and big chunk of cake. I tried unsuccessfully not to get teary eyed...
My second adventure in wandering off-Camino happened while exiting town. I was gawking at the cemetery and missed the arrow painted with some subtlety on the asphalt. Fortunately the view from the top of the wrong road after my half hour climb was amazing!
(You might want to note that the "gentle right at the first fork" is next to the church.)

Santalla del Bierzo
The walk to this village was without misadventure, and even better, was lovely. The people who live in this region are great gardeners, and this is beautifully tended land. Vegetable plots, orchards, and vineyards are all on a human scale, unlike other parts of Spain with huge corporate farms that I've walked through.
Leaving the village things got a little confused for me. No, I definitely did not want to climb to the castle. A very kindly man who even bowed when he bid me Buen Camino pointed me in the right direction, and then arrows led me out of the village, and up a dirt track. Up and down, up and down, until I came to a magical little ermita, white with a blue door, in the middle of nowhere (as an ermita should be.)
But then the path got funky, washed out, and still up and up, and I went with it. When I finally crossed a highway, I thought I'd better take it, and say goodbye to the funky path. The road quickly became a two lane switchback with heavy truck traffic, and a sheer drop on the other side of the guardrail.
I flagged down a car, and asked "this way to Borrenes?" Yes it was, and she invited me to hop in and get a lift into town--but as a fully committed, irrational pilgrim I had to keep walking with the semis until the turn off for the village mercifully appeared. From there it was a very pleasant if shaky walk into beautiful Borrenes.
I'm staying here at the Coratel Medulas hostel. The very kindly owner opened up the bar to make me a huge platter of fried eggs, potatoes and salad for dinner, every morsel of which I ate. She said four pilgrims were here last night. Good to know they are somewhere up the road, though at my snail's pace I will never catch up with them.

All in all, an adventurous day in a beautiful place with a satisfying ending. And other than the cake episode, I didn't cry once!

P.S. Mo, Larry and Curly are begging me to download a GPS, but I think my learning curve to figure out how to use it would be longer than my time on the Camino...

Dog report: 2 barkers who were just going through the motions, and 3 big guys lying by the road who couldn't have cared less. I was happy none of them were chained up.

 

[trevorcc]

You make t harder for me to wait the three months before I leave for my road less travel, the Camino de Levante. I hope your journey is full of adventure and magic. Buen Camino keep the writings coming.

 

[VNwalking]

Like, like, like, sabbott!
Buen Camino and thank you for filling in the gaps.
It's on my list for March if I can carve out the time

 

[peregrina2000]

Love your post, sabbott. I am always happy to elaborate on the instructions, so any details you send will go right in.

I bet you'll meet some others walking.

So far on the Ebro Annie and I haven't met anyone walking or biking the camino. Zaragoza is four days away and we think some pilgrims will appear after that. So if you get hooked in untraveled Caminos, know that there are lots more out there!

Did you get a chance to visit As Medulas? Buen camino, Laurie.

 

[sabbott]

Love your post, sabbott. I am always happy to elaborate on the instructions, so any details you send will go right in.

I bet you'll meet some others walking.

So far on the Ebro Annie and I haven't met anyone walking or biking the camino. Zaragoza is four days away and we think some pilgrims will appear after that. So if you get hooked in untraveled Caminos, know that there are lots more out there!

Did you get a chance to visit As Medulas? Buen camino, Laurie.

I'm on my way there today, Laurie. Just staying on the path is keeping me preoccupied, so I don't think I'll do much sightseeing. I thought again about a GPS since I seem to be unusually challenged to stay on the path--but they seem too complicated for me to figure out in the next few days. I'll see how today goes, maybe yesterday was a fluke for being wayward. But really, even with uncertainty about where I was, things worked out fine, and it's so beautiful here...

 

[Jas Asyiken]

Thanks for the beautiful share. It's good to know that there are options and one that although not perfect, is definitely more than good enough. Cheers. Buen Camino.

 

[peregrina2000]

I'm on my way there today, Laurie. Just staying on the path is keeping me preoccupied, so I don't think I'll do much sightseeing. I thought again about a GPS since I seem to be unusually challenged to stay on the path--but they seem too complicated for me to figure out in the next few days. I'll see how today goes, maybe yesterday was a fluke for being wayward. But really, even with uncertainty about where I was, things worked out fine, and it's so beautiful here...

I think there's a big change that comes when you get off the main routes. You won't find arrows every few meters to reassure you. You'll just find them when you need them. If you find yourself at an intersection with no markings, I have two rules of thumb. First is if you don't see an arrow and you're sure you're on the camino, keep going straight. Second, if you think you may have missed an arrow, backtrack to the previous intersection. But for sure you shouldn't go through numerous intersections without seeing an arrow. That means you are on the wrong way most likely.

 

[sabbott]

Day 2: Borrenes to Puente de Domingo Florez

If yesterday's movie was "The 3 Stooges", today's was "The Wizard of Oz", with me as Dorothy just taking it all in. What an amazing walk, featuring the surreal blasted cliffs of a 2,000 year old gold mine, technicolor wildflowers, a panorama of grand mountains, and an ever-changing sky. It was the best day walking of my 5 weeks on the Camino.

To Las Medulas: all well marked.
( you may want to note for literal minds like mine, Laurie, that one leaves the path and is walking on a paved road quite a ways into the town of Las Medulas.)
I did go into the little interpretative center on the way into town and had a really interesting talk with the man at the desk (who speaks English) about the history and technology of the mines.

From Las Medulas: also well marked
A big but gradual climb up the mountain, then a long and fairly gentle descent into the valley of the Rio Sil. Going up I was surrounded by an intimate landscape of chestnut trees and flowering shrubs. As soon as I crested the top, the view became immense, and the scale majestic. It's a long walk down to town, but I was so enjoying the beauty around me, I didn't mind.

Puente de Domingo Flores
A friendly town with a lot of character, and not a typical stone village. The people in this area are incredible gardeners, and there are well-tended vegetable and flower plots and vineyards tucked into yards, empty lots, and all along the river flatland. If you're a gardener, you'll find it inspiring.

I'm staying at the Hotel Torres on the highway, which is old fashioned and adequate. If you can eat in the restaurant (not the bar), do. I just had the menu, which was excellent--a chick pea salad starter, and grilled vegetables and fish.

Daily dog report: a large mastiff in Borrenes doing his morning rounds who wouldn't give me the time of day; a black lab in Las Medulas who refused to be distracted from his chew toy; and an extremely friendly setter in the same town (said hi to me, and obviously close friends with the lab though some competition over the toy) who refused to follow me out of the village. Plus an assortment of small yappers hardly worth mentioning...

P.S. Based on my reading of tomorrow's itinerary, I'm seeing some ambiguity ( remember I'm very literal minded) and potential for getting lost...I mean, for having off-trail adventures...I will follow your advice, Laurie, and not stray from the path unless instructed!

 

[sabbott]

Day 3: Puente de Domingo Flores to O Barco

Another wonderful walk today through beautiful country. Perfect weather, didn't take the poncho out of my pack once. Looks like it will get plenty of use in the next three days though! The path was generally very well marked, and I had no off trail adventures. A few suggestions for the guide are in parens, Laurie.

From Puente to Pumares
Sure enough, that poor bored chained up German shepherd did distract me enough that I missed the arrow!
(Before you get to Pumares, you pass under a railroad arch. There are three trails and no marking--pick the middle one that's up a steep path.)

Pumares
A really nice little village. I enjoyed my leftovers from the very generous breakfast from Hotel Torres, sitting in the sun with my shoes off at the village fountain with the tasty cold water. Unfortunately all the village cats Laurie promised were occupied elsewhere.

On the way to Sobradelo you walk for quite a long time on a high path that's shale cliffs and wildflowers on the right side, and a very long way down to tree tops, railroad tracks and the Rio Sil on the left side. Since we are notating in reference to fear of dogs, I think we should also mention possible difficulties for height phobics in our reports... It was a wide path and I won't say I felt anxious, but I did while walking on this dramatic stretch coin the Camino bromide: "Just because you are walking next to a sheer drop doesn't mean you will fall over it."

Sobradelo
I accidentally found Bar Mar and was glad I did. The very welcoming proprietor gave me olives, a chorizo sandwich, and ball point pen gratis. Such a nice guy.

Entoma to O Barco
I didn't notice a bar in town, so maybe it is closed, Laurie.
The pathway through the woods is quite overgrown in parts, but the trail is still visible. It's well marked.
(Laurie, I did not see an unmarked fork, they may have moved the mojon you cite as useless to a better spot that accurately marks the correct fork. All was clear.)

O Barco
It's a very long walk, about a half hour, all the way through town, if you're staying at the Pension Do Lar. A very nice place, and the restaurant is good, too.
I was going to have a rest day here tomorrow, but a Camino Frances friend decided to walk the Invierno, so I may push on with her to A Rua and have a rest day there, plus sit out a day of thunderstorms, if the predictions are correct.
It would be nice to have company on the long day coming up soon.

Dog report: 2 tiny yappers in Sobradelo who made a rush for me, but were thrown back on their heels by my effusive Spanglish praise of their energy and capability as village watchdogs.

P.S. I hesitate to sing the praises of this walk too highly--do we really want to have the word get out? But honestly, it's just great.

 

[Charrito]

I hesitate to sing the praises of this walk too highly--do we really want to have the word get out? But honestly, it's just great.

Shhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh!!!!!!!

Just what I thought last year, which is why I'll be back in four or five days' time!

Great posts, sabbott! Keep them coming, please!

 

[sabbott]

O Barco to A Rua
My Camino Invierno pace has slowed down to a crawl, which is just fine. I had a rest day in O Barco, which gave me a chance to catch up in my journal and sketchbook, take a nap, eat a big lunch of fried trout and flan, and drink some local wine, which is very tasty. I continue to be impressed by the gardens here in Galicia--There are even vineyards and orchards in front yards and vacant lots in the city...

The next day was a short, scenic stroll in the rain to A Rua. The way was by and large well-marked, and my practice of off-road adventuring seems to be behind me. I have a few updates on directions for Laurie in parentheses.

(The path at the Xagoaza turnoff was quite overgrown as others have reported, and an arrow there would be helpful as it doesn't look very path-like what with the high grass. If it's been raining you'll get soaked walking through there. I was happy I hadn't sent my rainpants ahead with my sleeping bag.)

I got a little confused in Arcos but managed to cross the N-20 and scurry up the median strip on to the access road between the highway and railroad tracks. It's very odd to be walking in such places that are built for cars not people! Sometimes I feel like an explorer in very alien lands....

(When you cross the railroad tracks before Vilamartin, ignore the arrow pointing you down to the tracks and follow the ones taking you to the road by the river.)

(Entering A Rua there is a sign for the poliodeportivo albergue straight ahead, or for the private albergue (Casa Solaina) to the right.)

I was going to be staying at Casa Solaina based on what I'd read in Laurie and Kinky's reports. It's a very well-marked but long way still to Casa Solaina from the sign, especially in the pouring rain. By the end I was laughing: those little painted houses with the arrow that just kept leading me along in the downpour, through deep puddles and up muddy farm tracks had become a very funny practical joke....

For the last 10o km of the Camino Frances I had been playing lost and found with my Camino friend Janin, and thought I'd unfortunately lost her for good when I started the Invierno. I was happy to get an email from her saying that she made a snap decision in Ponferrada to turn left, and was a day ahead of me (of course) at the Casa Solaina! Looking forward to the reunion, I finally found the elusive albergue--and there was no one there, and no one answering the phone or messages, including Janin...so I did the only thing I could, sit under an alcove and eat chocolate. I finally wandered down to s bar feeling a sense of abandonment out of all proportion to the occasion. While drinking tea there, accompanied by the ever-present bar television blaring soccer news, Janin texted me. She and Asun, the albergue owner, were driving around looking for me. Of course they were! Back into the rain I went, up the hill behind the church to Casa Solaina, from whence I write.

Asun is a healer, as you may know from other Invierno reports, and she's been working on Janin's knee, trying to get it ready for our very long walk tomorrow. So we are staying here for a rest day. I cooked a big fish soup last night (fish head staring at guilty me from the broth pot), and will be doing something with a chicken and pasta tonight. This is a very interesting place to spend some time, not really an albergue, you are a houseguest here. Lots to look at, read, listen to, and think about.

Dog report: a huge mastiff in someone's front yard that on closer inspection turned out to be a stone sculpture of a lion. Three or four assorted breeds lying around in the streets of the towns I walked through, each of whom could have made a bit more effort to show some interest in a poor wet pilgrim....

P.S. Three people since I started walking the Invierno have asked me where I was going, and when I told them Santiago, told me I was on the wrong Camino, I needed to go back to Ponferrada and keep going straight. I think not!

 

[Charrito]

Thanks for the posts, sabbott! This time next week, God willing, I'll be well on my way from O Barco to A Rúa. It's such a short stage and it's a pity that the following day, from A Rúa to Quiroga, is such a long one (although incredibly scenic).

I didn't stay in Casa Solaina last year (Hostal Niza in town is fine), but I did go up there with her associate and was lucky enough to meet Asun and her mother. Asun tended to my nasty blisters and gave me some of her home-made lotion, which worked wonders! What an absolutely marvellous lady!

I'm still toying with the idea (which I thought of last year too) of carrying on from A Rúa to Montefurado in the afternoon, and then catching the train back from Montefurado to A Rúa around 18.00. The following day, which in my case will be Monday, there is a train at 10.12 from A Rúa to Montefurado, where you can get off and carry on walking to Quiroga. It will all depend on the state of my feet, as I was silly last year and walked all the way from Ponferrada to Puente de Domingo Flórez on the first day and destroyed my feet!

Please let us know whether the bar/chiringuito in Soldón (by the river) is open. It's the one where our good friend KinkyOne fell in love with the barmaid! Last year, it was closed when I hobbled through around 11.30. I am also led to believe that there may be a bar/tienda in Bendollo, but I have never seen anyone else verify this. It's a long stage to Quiroga, so if there's nowhere to stop take plenty of water and provisions.

Buen camino to you and your friend Janin!

 

[gollygolly]

O Barco to A Rua
My Camino Invierno
P.S. Three people since I started walking the Invierno have asked me where I was going, and when I told them Santiago, told me I was on the wrong Camino, I needed to go back to Ponferrada and keep going straight. I think not!

Thanks for your posts, which are adding to my own excitement as I hope to be following in your tracks in just over 3 weeks time.

With those who have directed you that you are on the wrong Camino and need to return to Ponferrada, worth remembering that you are really on the Camino less traveled - in 2015 the office at Santiago recorded that a total of 210 walked the Camino de Invierno, which is about 4 peregrinos per week !

Buen Camino !

 

[Charrito]

Where are you, sabbott? Have you decided to stay in A Rúa with Asun and her mother????????

 

[sabbott]

Yes, we stayed two nights with Asun in A Rua, then had a challenging but beautiful day walking to Quiroga. Last night we arrived in Barxa do Lor, which is reminding me of Shangra La, the place that time forgot. We decided to stay here at Casa Pacita another night. Pacita and husband Jose are kindly, and Jose wants to show us his farm today. All the food in the restaurant is from the finca--plus trout from the river. And they have three completely charming dogs!
No wifi here--rather than use up data I will give a more detailed report later.
Cheers from the Invierno, Susan

 

[sabbott]

Thanks for the posts, sabbott! This time next week, God willing, I'll be well on my way from O Barco to A Rúa. It's such a short stage and it's a pity that the following day, from A Rúa to Quiroga, is such a long one (although incredibly scenic).

I didn't stay in Casa Solaina last year (Hostal Niza in town is fine), but I did go up there with her associate and was lucky enough to meet Asun and her mother. Asun tended to my nasty blisters and gave me some of her home-made lotion, which worked wonders! What an absolutely marvellous lady!

I'm still toying with the idea (which I thought of last year too) of carrying on from A Rúa to Montefurado in the afternoon, and then catching the train back from Montefurado to A Rúa around 18.00. The following day, which in my case will be Monday, there is a train at 10.12 from A Rúa to Montefurado, where you can get off and carry on walking to Quiroga. It will all depend on the state of my feet, as I was silly last year and walked all the way from Ponferrada to Puente de Domingo Flórez on the first day and destroyed my feet!

Please let us know whether the bar/chiringuito in Soldón (by the river) is open. It's the one where our good friend KinkyOne fell in love with the barmaid! Last year, it was closed when I hobbled through around 11.30. I am also led to believe that there may be a bar/tienda in Bendollo, but I have never seen anyone else verify this. It's a long stage to Quiroga, so if there's nowhere to stop take plenty of water and provisions.

Buen camino to you and your friend Janin!

Charrito, the bar in Soldan was not open when I walked by there 2 days ago.
I can understand breaking the day from A Rua to Quiroga, it's very long. Montefurado is a very interesting ghost town. I would think you would want to time your arrival there close to the train departure, as it is completely empty.

 

[sabbott]

From A Rua to Quiroga

The good news is I'm back on wifi and can catch up on reports on my progress on the Invierno before I forget. The bad news is I just drank a big glass of Galician cidre plus half a beer on my way into Monforte on a very warm afternoon, so I am both slightly inebriated and tired! But I will try my best given the circumstances.

I would describe the walk from A Rua to Quiroga as epic, both in length and emotional
(and physical) ups and downs. It has everything--great views, mountain swards, villages, hills, vales--and at the very end, about three more miles of picturesque paths up to a castle than I really needed. But it was a satisfying day, and when I stumbled into the Municipal Albergue at 10:00 pm, I felt a real sense of accomplishment. I had survived, and did not have to curl up in my silk liner and sleep on that logging road that I was still slogging on in the gathering dusk.

I was very glad to have the company of my Camino friend Janin on this leg (and every other.) My hat is off to anyone, especially women, walking the Invierno solo. It's not scary, it's just that there are very long stretches when you are really out in the middle of nowhere and completely alone. Janin and I aren't always together, but it's nice to know she's somewhere up there ahead of me.

A couple of notes on some places along the way. Montefurado is one of those empty towns you see all over this part of Spain, but this one is especially evocative, a real ghost town.

In Bendillo there is no spring at the Ermita.

Also, there is different way marking than Laurie describes--now there are arrows that go to Venda Villa up a grassy path, that will take you off- road.
(Laurie, also note that before Soldon you no longer need to "take the dirt road going up the hill in front of you." There are now arrows taking you across the highway on to an access road and then to Soldon.)

The last miles dragged. I think one problem was that we left A Rua at 9:30 am so we could get Janin fitted for a knee brace at the pharmacy, so it was a very late start. The walk took us over 12 hours, but we are dawdlers.

(On that last interminable but lovely grass path, Laurie--first it hits a logging road and you turn left, then the paved road to Quiroga.)

We dragged into town, found the municipal albergue without a problem, and heard the intense racket of 200 school kids having a sleepover before their nature field trip the next day. I am a bad pilgrim and was ready to go to a hostal, but Janin is a good pilgrim and got us a double room that was just fine. Anyway, the school kids left with their chaperone to go to a disco at 10:00 pm, and were very quiet when they returned to the albergue at 12:30 am. When do these people sleep? I am in awe of their unflagging energy!

Janin and I did imitate the Spanish and went out for a meal at what was for us a very late hour. We had a delicious caldo verde and fried eggs, I wish I could remember the name of the restaurant. Then we slept the sleep that you sleep when you have walked many miles.

Dog report: I think it was in Alvaredos that we mistook a woman's kitchen for a bar. She kindly offered us a Coke even though it was a private not a commercial establishment. She had a picture of a yellow lab on her window, and when I asked her if that was her pet, she started to cry, as he had recently died. This is an example of why I love both the Camino Invierno and dogs....

PS Laurie, as always your guide was wonderful to have. Thank you so much to you and the others who wrote it!

 

[crackmrmac]

Wish you well. I know I was knackered when I walked into Quiroga a few years ago. Didn't have energy/motivation to gain entry to albegue, so went up to Hostal and slept soundly.

Buen Camino sabbot

 

[Charrito]

I'm relaxing in Las Médulas. Will attempt to write a few things later.

 

[Charrito]

A few things for the Invierno Guide, Laurie:

Many places were not open today. In Toral de Merayo, Café Bar Nogal in the square opens at 09.00. Bar El Puente was not open, but the tables and chairs were on the terrace. The bread shop was open when I passed at 08.45.

I finally found a bar open in Santalla. It's Café Bar Ronda, on the main road right at the end of the village. Terrace out front and a beautiful covered part at the back, with views over the whole of the Bierzo. The owner normally opens at 10.30, but she lives above the bar and will serve you if you shout! Sello available, and you can walk back down to the Camino.

I didn't go up to Cornatel Castle this time. Very little traffic on the winding road.

Bar Marisol in Borrenes opens at 12.30, so too late for me.

The place I described to you as 'bohemian' is not the Taberna Romana, but O Camiño Real, right by the car park on your right as you finally enter Las Médulas. Excellent caldo berciano, and I'll be back there shortly. Plenty of other eateries in the village.

I was chatting to a lady by the fountain in Borrenes, and she told me they all say As Médulas!! All the signs here, though, say Las Médulas.

Off to O Barco tomorrow. The temperatures are going down, but only by 1 degree!! Today was hot hot hot. And it still is at 20.10.

Time for a glass or two!

Buen Camino to you all.

 

[Charrito]

Work progressing on the promised private albergue in O Camiño Real.

 

[sabbott]

Hey fellow Invierno lovers! I am in A Barxa tonight at the Casa Rural Torre Villarino, and very nice it is. I'm too tired to write details, but want to give other walkers a heads up that the the traditional Camino trail out of A Vida is a challenge. We pretty much walked in a stream and bushwhacked for quite a bit of it. Never did find the path to Penelope's. All in all, a great day of adventure though!

Charrito, we had a lovely 2 nights at Casa Pacita in Barxa da Lor. Jose and Pacita were great hosts, and good food too!

More later, Susan

 

[Charrito]

Plenty to report later. I'm in O Barco.

 

[Charrito]

After the long slog down to Puente de Domingo Flórez, I found the churrería open in the little square. No stamp, open before 09.00. It makes no sense to send you over the river and miss the town. Turn right before you get to the bottom snd you'll see Café Bar Los Arcos before the square.

Bar El Cruce open, as usual. Pilgrim-friendly and lovely sello. There's a cafetería, Thais, just off the access road to Quereño.

A big new sign at the top of the hill, before the town, sends you off to the Hostal La Torre. It would save a couple of kms, but you'd miss the town.

The usual uncomfortable walk by the railway track after Quereño. Hard on the feet.

Cafetería Pontenova and Bar Mar both open in Sobradelo. Manolo has room for 14 people above Bar Mar, but can't get a licence! Call him in advance and he'll put you up.

Bar el Martillo in Éntoma re-opened in October. No sello yet, but a beautiful sculpture outside and a great terrace.

You can save a good 30 minutes if you follow the road from the bar.

Excellent meal outside Casa Galaica in O Barco. Daily menu is 11.50, more at weekends.

Pensión do Lar is ok, but the wifi only seems to work downstairs. Very poweful new shower.

 

[Charrito]

Two days to write about. Having a rest an hour or so from Quiroga.

Will post later today.

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

We dragged into town, found the municipal albergue without a problem, and heard the intense racket of 200 school kids having a sleepover before their nature field trip the next day. I am a bad pilgrim and was ready to go to a hostal, but Janin is a good pilgrim and got us a double room that was just fine. Anyway, the school kids left with their chaperone to go to a disco at 10:00 pm, and were very quiet when they returned to the albergue at 12:30 am. When do these people sleep? I am in awe of their unflagging energy!

Oh I remember that place when reading your posts. I didn't know there was a hostel in town but I really should have gone there instead of staying at the albergue in Quiroga. 200 schoolkids were there that day as well and they did NOT pay me the same respect. They played games with their teachers outside my window until 01:00 in the night, of which "Scream until you can't scream no more", "Who shouts the loudest", "Run back and forth and slam the doors" and "Additional screaming" must be popular games in Galician schools. I am a teacher myself but I sure would have liked to know what part of the curriculum is aimed with such nonsense. I will NEVER EVER stay in that place again.

/BP

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Thanks for your posts, which are adding to my own excitement as I hope to be following in your tracks in just over 3 weeks time.

With those who have directed you that you are on the wrong Camino and need to return to Ponferrada, worth remembering that you are really on the Camino less traveled - in 2015 the office at Santiago recorded that a total of 210 walked the Camino de Invierno, which is about 4 peregrinos per week !

Buen Camino !

Hi,

Make that 211, cause I was there but I never reported to the Camino office in Santiago. It sure is less traveled: I met no-one at all between Ponferrada and Ponte Ulla, in July.

/BP

 

[sabbott]

Charrito, I am moving very slowly! In Rodeiro for a rest day today at Hostal Carpinteiras, a very nice place owned by very friendly folks. I'm in no hurry to leave Galicia...

Any chance you'll catch up with me? It would be fun to meet you! Tomorrow (Tuesday) I'll be in Lalin.

Am a bit behind in my reports in, will hopefully catch up later today. Now I'm going out in search of Caldo Verde.

 

[Charrito]

Oh I remember that place when reading your posts. I didn't know there was a hostel in town but I really should have gone there instead of staying at the albergue in Quiroga. 200 schoolkids were there that day as well and they did NOT pay me the same respect. They played games with their teachers outside my window until 01:00 in the night, of which "Scream until you can't scream no more", "Who shouts the loudest", "Run back and forth and slam the doors" and "Additional screaming" must be popular games in Galician schools. I am a teacher myself but I sure would have liked to know what part of the curriculum is aimed with such nonsense. I will NEVER EVER stay in that place again.

/BP

I'm staying in Hostal Quiper tonight. Report later.

 

[Charrito]

Charrito, I am moving very slowly! In Rodeiro for a rest day today at Hostal Carpinteiras, a very nice place owned by very friendly folks. I'm in no hurry to leave Galicia...

Any chance you'll catch up with me? It would be fun to meet you! Tomorrow (Tuesday) I'll be in Lalin.

Am a bit behind in my reports in, will hopefully catch up later today. Now I'm going out in search of Caldo Verde.

I'm in Quiroga now, so no chance of catching you up.

Besides, I'm taking four days off the Invierno to go over to Vilanova de Arousa with my wife. That will be from Friday.

 

[sabbott]

Maybe next year, Charrito, I'm hoping to get back to walk the Invierno again! Looking forward to reading your reports.

 

[Charrito]

Maybe next year, Charrito, I'm hoping to get back to walk the Invierno again! Looking forward to reading your reports.

Coming soon!!

 

[Charrito]

Right, two days' worth of notes here:

O Barco to A Rúa is a doddle. They seem to be tidying up the recreational area by the river in Villamartín. I didn't go into the town.

Fantastic breakfast in Panadería/Cafetería Peyma, halfway down the long drag into A Rúa. Café con leche (grande), fresh zumo de naranja, and a little fruit cake: 1 euro!!!!

I stayed in town in the Hostal Niza (again). Charming elderly couple, fairly basic room, but no complaints for 18 euros.

On Sundays, and on the 7th of each month, Amalia sets up her pulpo stall outside Bar Bravo, in the same street as Hostal Niza and Bar Taxi. A huge portion of pulpo, and you ask for a plate of boiled potatoes, bread and wine in the bar. Enough for two or three people; total cost 9.20. Ridiculous!

As it had been a relatively short stage, I had a rest and then walked along to Petín, across the Roman Bridge on the other side of the river/embalse. Why? Because they had a medieval feria on, and I couldn't resist it. Every sort of stall, artesanía, food . . . And wine!!!

peregrina2000 would have loved it! Stall after stall of the local adegas/bodegas, all serving their own vino (D.O. Valdeorras). Tinto (Mencía) and Blanco (Godello). All in earthenware bowls. The bad news? It was all free! It would have been extremely rude not to try them all! So I did. At least I think I did!

More to follow.

 

[Charrito]

Part 2:

Staggering back from Petín, I called in for another glass in Casa de Huespedes Sparta, across from the nice-looking, modern three star Pensión Fabio. They have room for 27 people and charge 10 to 12 euros. Nice bar, with free tapas. Early breakfast available. By staying there you can take the road to Alvaredos and save the best part of 3kms on the way to Quiroga.

Sorry, KinkyOne, but I got 4 free tapas, not 3, in Bar Pepa, by the town hall! They ripped you off!

 

[Charrito]

Today:

Epic stage, exactly how sabbott reported it. Spectacular scenery, incredible views, half-dead villages . . .

Well-stocked with water and food, I set off around 06.30 with a surprisingly clear head! Heavy rain overnight, but not a spot fell on me!

The wooden chiringuito is there in Soldón, but no sign of it opening yet.

I walk quickly, so I got into Quiroga in time to get a room in the Hostal Quiper and then have lunch.

The hostal is excellent. Extremely modern, huge bathroom, double bed, wifi . . . All for 17 euros.

I headed up to Casa Aroza for lunch. Amazing choice for the menú del día. A bottle of local wine, wonderful bread, patatas guisadas con carne, filete de ternera con patatas fritas y ensalada, fresas con nata, café y chupito de orujo. And it all set me back 10 euros! I'll be back tonight after mass to sample a couple of their massive legendary tapas. I discovered this place from peregrina2000's recommendations last year. Try it, and I guarantee you will not have a better meal on the Invierno. Apart from Mesón Lucus in Chantada perhaps.

Siesta time!

 

[Anemone del Camino]

I'm in Quiroga now, so no chance of catching you up.

Besides, I'm taking four days off the Invierno to go over to Vilanova de Arousa with my wife. That will be from Friday.

Vilanova de Arousa? If you both want to walk a little, I strongly suggest the first bit starting at the Armenteira monastery, following the cascading river through the forest. A lovely 6 km or so. And a visit to the Poio Monastery just before coming into Combarro.

 

[Charrito]

Vilanova de Arousa? If you both want to walk a little, I strongly suggest the first bit starting at the Armenteira monastery, following the cascading river through the forest. A lovely 6 km or so. And a visit to the Poio Monastery just before coming into Combarro.

I've walked the Variante Espiritual twice! It is certainly beautiful.

 

[Charrito]

Day 4 of my second Invierno and I still haven't come across another peregrino!

Ponferrada was packed with them last Thursday night, but they all obviously headed up towards Villafranca and Sarria.

They don't know what they're missing!

As Viñas in A Pobra do Brollón tomorrow.

 

[Charrito]

Having a beer in Pensión Pacita. Warm regards from Pacita and José to Susan and Janin.

It's HOT.

 

[Charrito]

I walked up the LU 933 from Pensión Pacita to A Pobra. Up, up and more up. Lovely greeting from José, his wife and son in As Viñas. Best shower ever and excellent meal.

34 degrees here!

Greetings from José to KinkyOne!!

 

[Charrito]

The information in the guide about Pensión Pacita is wrong, Laurie.

Turn left at the bridge and you'll find the Pensión around 400 meters along the river. It is NOT 2 kms off the Camino. sabbott stayed there last week. Lovely people, nice place, good food.

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Today:

Epic stage, exactly how sabbott reported it. Spectacular scenery, incredible views, half-dead villages . . .

Well-stocked with water and food, I set off around 06.30 with a surprisingly clear head! Heavy rain overnight, but not a spot fell on me!

The wooden chiringuito is there in Soldón, but no sign of it opening yet.

I walk quickly, so I got into Quiroga in time to get a room in the Hostal Quiper and then have lunch.

The hostal is excellent. Extremely modern, huge bathroom, double bed, wifi . . . All for 17 euros.

I headed up to Casa Aroza for lunch. Amazing choice for the menú del día. A bottle of local wine, wonderful bread, patatas guisadas con carne, filete de ternera con patatas fritas y ensalada, fresas con nata, café y chupito de orujo. And it all set me back 10 euros! I'll be back tonight after mass to sample a couple of their massive legendary tapas. I discovered this place from peregrina2000's recommendations last year. Try it, and I guarantee you will not have a better meal on the Invierno. Apart from Mesón Lucus in Chantada perhaps.

Siesta time!

Aaargh, good hostal for 17 euros, I could have afforded that...! Had I known. Glad to see you're enjoying your Camino. So, Monforte de Lemos today? Is there any albergue? I stayed in a hostal "Finis Terrae", I think.

Take care!

/Bad pilgrim

 

[Charrito]

Aaargh, good hostal for 17 euros, I could have afforded that...! Had I known. Glad to see you're enjoying your Camino. So, Monforte de Lemos today? Is there any albergue? I stayed in a hostal "Finis Terrae", I think.

Take care!

/Bad pilgrim

Staying in A Pobra do Brollón today, Monforte tomorrow.

 

[Charrito]

First of all, let me recommend Pensión As Viñas in A Pobra do Brollón. What wonderful people! Great room with bathroom, excellent lunch, 2 hours' drinking beer with Bruno, the son, in the shady garden, a huge plate of different cheeses with a bottle of local white wine, lovely breakfast at 8. 43 euros. Last year I paid 40. Inflation!!

Fairly straightforward stage to Monforte today. There is one steep climb, but the rest is fairly flat.

There are some pretty overgrown stretches and that muddy part just after Regeida is muddier than ever.

I'm staying in the Hotel Ribeira Sacra: fabulous place, massive room with a huge double bed and very modern bathroom. Breakfast from 8 is included: 36 euros.

Museo del vino for a guided tour at 18.30 today, with tasting included. All for the ridiculous amount of 2.50 euros.

 

[sabbott]

I'm in Silleda, so officially and sadly off the Invierno...
Thanks, Charrito, for your updates! I hope to try some of your recommendations next year.

A couple of reports from my stages:

--Barxa do Lor: as Charrito says, Casa Pacita is a good place for overnight and a meal. In fact I stayed 2 nights, and Jose took me for a tour of his finca and around the area, such a funny and nice guy. It would be good to correct the distance in the guide, as the restaurant and hostal are just a few steps off the Camino.

--the walk the next day to Castroncelos through high meadows and hayfields was one of the loveliest of my Camino

--as you get to the outskirts of Monforte, arrows point two ways. A local told us to go left--don't, go right, or you end up walking all the way around the railroad tracks. Especially true if you are staying at Pension Galicia.

--in Monforte it's difficult to get into either the art gallery or convent museum, as both require guides and are open very limited hours.

I'll post this now in case I lose wifi!

 

[sabbott]

More from my last few days:

--In A Vide the off road option has been marked with an x, and locals will discourage you from taking it, saying it is wet and overgrown. Of course I did take, rather than walk on the road. And guess what, it's overgrown and wet! A small river in areas, in fact. It is very pretty though, so if you are up for a nature adventure, go for it!

--yes Laurie, you're right, after Pazo, things got confusing! I found San Lourenzo, but never found the Camino near there. I did however find a very charming herd of goats wandering like me around and around in the woods. I ended up taking the country road to the rural Casa Torre Vilarino. I have to say my stay there was spoiled by the constant sad barking of their chained dog.

--I was able to get into the beautiful Diomondi church, as someone was there ringing the bell as a villager had died.

--the walk down to the Mino River and up again through the terraced vineyards was as spectacular as you said it would be, Laurie! The bar by the river was a really good place to just sit and recharge for awhile, not to mention people watch. It may have been a mistake to have that beer and order of pimiento rellenos, given the walk straight uphill in the heat that afternoon...

--In Chantada I stayed at the Hotel Mogay, more modern than most hostals, and ate at Bar Lucus, both good choices.

--heading towards Alta de Faro I stopped at the bar in Penasillas, open Sunday morning. No barking dogs, just an old lame one lying in the sun, and a very cute puppy.

--there's something going on with the arrows when you are walking out of Alta de Faro. I must have done what Laurie said might happen, and followed a left arrow down and into country roads, with no more Camino arrows to be seen. Eventually I found the highway and turned right on it, and walked with the cars the last miles into Rodeiro. Other pilgrims I met later all did the same thing, and felt like we may have gone quite a bit out of our way. But who's counting??

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

More from my last few days:

--In A Vide the off road option has been marked with an x, and locals will discourage you from taking it, saying it is wet and overgrown. Of course I did take, rather than walk on the road. And guess what, it's overgrown and wet! A small river in areas, in fact. It is very pretty though, so if you are up for a nature adventure, go for it!

--yes Laurie, you're right, after Pazo, things got confusing! I found San Lourenzo, but never found the Camino near there. I did however find a very charming herd of goats wandering like me around and around in the woods. I ended up taking the country road to the rural Casa Torre Vilarino. I have to say my stay there was spoiled by the constant sad barking of their chained dog.

--I was able to get into the beautiful Diomondi church, as someone was there ringing the bell as a villager had died.

--the walk down to the Mino River and up again through the terraced vineyards was as spectacular as you said it would be, Laurie! The bar by the river was a really good place to just sit and recharge for awhile, not to mention people watch. It may have been a mistake to have that beer and order of pimiento rellenos, given the walk straight uphill in the heat that afternoon...

--In Chantada I stayed at the Hotel Mogay, more modern than most hostals, and ate at Bar Lucus, both good choices.

--heading towards Alta de Faro I stopped at the bar in Penasillas, open Sunday morning. No barking dogs, just an old lame one lying in the sun, and a very cute puppy.

--there's something going on with the arrows when you are walking out of Alta de Faro. I must have done what Laurie said might happen, and followed a left arrow down and into country roads, with no more Camino arrows to be seen. Eventually I found the highway and turned right on it, and walked with the cars the last miles into Rodeiro. Other pilgrims I met later all did the same thing, and felt like we may have gone quite a bit out of our way. But who's counting??

Oh, so many memories of last year. A Vide, the overgrown path: yes, I thought I was stubborn enough to go through but after a few meters I was trapped and could hardly retrocede because of the branches that got caught in my clothes. But you managed to get through?? There is actually detour through the farm that is not too long: good for future pilgrims to know. Just follow the road and turn to the left through the farm as soon as it's possible.

Arrows after Alto do Faro: yes, it's confusing. I didn't go wrong but I had to stay and scratch my head for a while before I understood I had to turn right. Some Asociación should do something about it.

/BP

 

[sabbott]

Ok, last report!
--Rodeiro is a real farming town, full of manure spreaders. I liked it! I stayed for a rest day, in fact. I highly recommend Hostal Carpinteiras, really nice folks. Also had an excellent lunch at Guerra restaurant. Great salads in Galicia, as everyone has a garden.

--the long walk to Lalin was a piece of cake because I met a Dutch pilgrim couple and we had a fun time talking the whole way. The path is flooded before Penebosa, but there's a detour path to the right you can take.

--Lalin is a nice city with lots of young folks wearing interesting hip tee shirts--nothing like Rodeiro though it's just 15 miles down the road. The Hotel Palacio was comfortable and good value. I went to Casa Mourino across the street to try the cocido. The waitress seemed shocked that I was sitting there expecting to eat at 9:15 pm, and I settled for a tasty plate of fried eggs and potatoes.

--today I was expecting Lalin to Silleda to be a piece of cake, and as usual my day was full
of surprises. The river path out of Lalin is really nice, cool in the morning and with plenty of fellow walkers getting their exercise. There are two paths, take either as they wend the same way.
Exiting it was tricky. I never found a sewage plant, and the pond is now more of an overgrown wetland. If you go around the end of the pond, you will exit left, not right, onto the axis road that leads you up to the N525 highway.
There things got a bit hairy, as there are no arrows for a long way. I did walk past the Santiago hostal, then along the very busy and scary highway. I crossed it running (must have been a sight what with the poles and backpack) and went up the hill on the road to the right, to the industrial "park".
Directions are a little unclear here for the literal minded, Laurie. You might want to say to walk most of the way around the 2nd roundabout to find the path along the highway. I looked to exit the roundabout on the right side and ended up in a car parts warehouse. A nice man there took pity on me and clarified things.

And then I was on my way again, trending towards Santiago! Not sure yet whether I'll break up the next long stage to San Pedro, or finish up in two days....

This has been a wonderful two week adventure, and the best possible finish to my first five weeks on the Frances. Thanks so much to Laurie and Rebekah, and everyone who contributed to the guide I have in my pocket everyday--it's been a great companion!

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Hi,

I just rapidly read through your post: exactly the same problems for me leaving Lalín.

Did you turn right to leave the park with the bridges and runners? It was the only arrow I saw. I went through a little wood and then I ended up amongst som houses that were close to the road N525. By accident I stumbled upon a waymarking that took me to the industrial park, where I got lost in exactly the same way as you did. I had to go back to the Hostal Santiago and ask for directions and then I was all right. Oh, Laurie, if you read this, is this clarified in "your" Invierno guide? That place needs special attention...! The roundabout in Sabbott's post above does have a bleak arrow, but it is barely visible. If it was only me I wouldn't mention it but it appears to be confusing to other pilgrims as well.

/BP

 

[sabbott]

Yes, Badpilgrim, I also saw those yellow arrows that want to take you off the river walk path and into the woods, but figured I'd better follow Laurie's instructions, and found the asphalt road that takes you up and out of the park. There was an arrow there. No arrows I think from then on, that I could find anyway. I agree, given how dangerous that big road is, it would be good to have clear arrows that lead you across and up to the industrial park, to the 2nd roundabout, then down the hill to the path next to the road that takes you to A Laxe.
And the Romanesque church on the way to Silleda was open!

 

[Charrito]

Getting picked up by Mrs. Charrito in Belesar later, then off to Vilanova de Arousa by car for 3 days of playa and mariscos.

We hope to do the river cruise along the Miño next Tuesday. Then I'll be off on my own up to Chantada.

 

[Charrito]

The wine tour in Monforte was excellent, by the way. Just me and the guide, 70 minutes and a great explanation. Video too, and free tasting.

The other girl in the Centro do Vino speaks very good English if any of you have limited Spanish.

 

[Charrito]

Made it to Belesar without getting lost! That descent from Diomondi is so wonderful.

Presently sitting on the terrace of Abaceria A Batuxo, waiting for my wife to arrive and invite me for lunch! Only joking: I'm paying.

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Okay, so you have to face the uphill climb now...! Perhaps you're done with it already. I thought it was soooo steep. Great views of course but it didn't help much... It's also possible to take the road to have a less aggressiv ascent, but it adds a few kilometers to it I think. Oh, I'm so jealous! But I soon leave for the Camino de Madrid, just two more weeks to go.

/BP

 

[peregrina2000]

Yes but there's a bodega at the top (something Romana maybe) where you can rest, drink water, and taste wine if you are so inclined. L

And ps. Thanks for all the notes for the guide. We'll have a lot of fun with revisions this year!

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Yes but there's a bodega at the top (something Romana maybe) where you can rest, drink water, and taste wine if you are so inclined. L

And ps. Thanks for all the notes for the guide. We'll have a lot of fun with revisions this year!

Yes, but I remember something about restricted opening hours... It only opened for the week-ends or something? Last year?

 

[Charrito]

Okay, so you have to face the uphill climb now...! Perhaps you're done with it already. I thought it was soooo steep. Great views of course but it didn't help much... It's also possible to take the road to have a less aggressiv ascent, but it adds a few kilometers to it I think. Oh, I'm so jealous! But I soon leave for the Camino de Madrid, just two more weeks to go.

/BP

Not today! That will be next Tuesday.

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Oh, I'm mixing the towns up perhaps, sorry. :Oo

 

[Charrito]

Yes but there's a bodega at the top (something Romana maybe) where you can rest, drink water, and taste wine if you are so inclined. L

And ps. Thanks for all the notes for the guide. We'll have a lot of fun with revisions this year!

Via Romana.

Adega A Veiga on the left,with bar, only opens at weekends. Great terrace looking back down to Belesar.

 

[Charrito]

This is the life! Sitting by the beach on the marvellous Isla de Arousa with a cold Estrella Galicia. It's a great way to recharge the batteries before returning to Belesar on Tuesday to climb up to Chantada.

We've seen quite a few caminantes on the fantastic Variante Espiritual, waiting for the boat to take them across the ría and up the river to Pontecesures. After the Invierno, my favourite Camino. Check it out.

 

[sabbott]

I'm in Muxia now, took the bus from Santiago to Finisterre and then walked here with an overnight in Lires. Putting my feet in the Atlantic felt like the true end to my Caminos Frances and Invierno.

A couple notes about the last days before Santiago:
--I followed Laurie's recommendation, and stayed in Dornelas at Casa Leira 1866. Cristina and Andrea, an Italian couple who speak English, have created a really beautiful albergue and bar from an old stone house farmhouse. It's the most thoughtfully designed and comfortable dorm I've stayed in, highly recommended! If you have spent the night in Silleda, you'll get to Dornelas early and can have a nice day in the country (the food is good there, too.)

--I spent the next night at Casa de Casal, about ten miles outside of Santiago. It's in a suburban neighborhood, but on an old farm estate, quiet and very nice. The proprietor gave me a pilgrims rate of I think 40 euros for a double, which was quite a bit less than on booking.com.

You can see with all these stops I was in no hurry to finish!

 

[NualaOC]

Super posts @sabbott, thanks for sharing your journey with us. Hope you enjoy your time in Muxia.

If you fancy dipping more than your feet in the Atlantic, this is a nice spot for swimming:

It's just past the harbour (when you walk with the sea to your left), but before the beach.

 

[Charrito]

As the weather has deteriorated so much, I have decided not to continue on the final stages of the Invierno until later this summer. We had a great time on the coast in Arousa, but torrential rain and thunderstorms over the next few days have definitely put me off! The stage from Chantada to Rodeiro, with the climb up to Alto do Faro, would have been horrendous.

That's the advantage of living in Spain, though. I can get back up to Belesar in just a few hours and carry on whenever I feel like it! I already walked the whole Invierno last summer, so I'm in no hurry.

For those of you who are going to be on the Invierno this year, you'll love it!

Buen camino!

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

As the weather has deteriorated so much, I have decided not to continue on the final stages of the Invierno until later this summer. We had a great time on the coast in Arousa, but torrential rain and thunderstorms over the next few days have definitely put me off! The stage from Chantada to Rodeiro, with the climb up to Alto do Faro, would have been horrendous.

That's the advantage of living in Spain, though. I can get back up to Belesar in just a few hours and carry on whenever I feel like it! I already walked the whole Invierno last summer, so I'm in no hurry.

For those of you who are going to be on the Invierno this year, you'll love it!

Buen camino!

Oh I didn't know you lived there? Where?

 

[Charrito]

Oh I didn't know you lived there? Where?

On the outskirts of Salamanca. The Via de la Plata passes a kilometre in front of my flat!

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

On the outskirts of Salamanca. The Via de la Plata passes a kilometre in front of my flat!

Wow, that's what I was about to ask: which Camino is the closest to where you live. Is it a summer residence or do you live there permanently?

I'm leving for Camino de Madrid in about a week! Any experience of that one?

Take care/BP

 

[Charrito]

Wow, that's what I was about to ask: which Camino is the closest to where you live. Is it a summer residence or do you live there permanently?

I'm leving for Camino de Madrid in about a week! Any experience of that one?

Take care/BP

Lived here for over 25 years. I've walked some stretches of the Camino de Madrid, but certainly not all of it.

 

[crackmrmac]

On the outskirts of Salamanca. The Via de la Plata passes a kilometre in front of my flat!

Be careful or we'll all arrive!

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Be careful or we'll all arrive!

Looks like we have a new albergue on the Vía de la plata! Reservations allowed, I suppose? :O)

 

[Charrito]

Looks like we have a new albergue on the Vía de la plata! Reservations allowed, I suppose? :O)

Luxury accommodation, Michelin star food, huge terrace, communal swimming pool, laundry facilities, plus a whole lot more . . . . . .

 

[crackmrmac]

Arriving in Arua I spotted city bikes on left. They are also outside Bar Pepa!!!

 

[KinkyOne]

After the long slog down to Puente de Domingo Flórez, I found the churrería open in the little square. No stamp, open before 09.00. It makes no sense to send you over the river and miss the town. Turn right before you get to the bottom snd you'll see Café Bar Los Arcos before the square.

Bar El Cruce open, as usual. Pilgrim-friendly and lovely sello. There's a cafetería, Thais, just off the access road to Quereño.

A big new sign at the top of the hill, before the town, sends you off to the Hostal La Torre. It would save a couple of kms, but you'd miss the town.

The usual uncomfortable walk by the railway track after Quereño. Hard on the feet.

Cafetería Pontenova and Bar Mar both open in Sobradelo. Manolo has room for 14 people above Bar Mar, but can't get a licence! Call him in advance and he'll put you up.

Bar el Martillo in Éntoma re-opened in October. No sello yet, but a beautiful sculpture outside and a great terrace.

You can save a good 30 minutes if you follow the road from the bar.

Excellent meal outside Casa Galaica in O Barco. Daily menu is 11.50, more at weekends.

Pensión do Lar is ok, but the wifi only seems to work downstairs. Very poweful new shower.

Hola, Charrito!

Someone would expect because of my reputation that I'm the one entitled to write about the bars but now you did this hard work

 

[Charrito]

Hola, Charrito!

Someone would expect because of my reputation that I'm the one entitled to write about the bars but now you did this hard work

 

[Charrito]

Have no fear, KinkyOne! Your reputation will NEVER diminish!

 

[peregrina2000]

Work progressing on the promised private albergue in O Camiño Real.

Where is this? (your favorite guide editor wants to know).

 

[Charrito]

Where is this? (your favorite guide editor wants to know).

Would that be 'your favourite guide' or 'your favourite editor', Laurie? BOTH!

It's the first place you come to in Las/As Médulas after you've walked up that never-ending hill from Borrenes/Carucedo. On the right-hand side, just next to the car park, more or less in front of the Hotel Medulio, and just before the Aula Arqueológica.

Last June, work was definitely well under way, in spite of the owners' having quite a few bureaucratic problems.

The place itself (O Camiño Real) is well worth a visit, with a lovely garden area and excellent gallego folk music. One of the sons is a musician. You may remember that I described the place as being 'bohemian'. Excellent food, too. Try the tabla de quesos: a great selection with lots of different types of marmalade to accompany them.The caldo berciano is also very good.

 

[peregrina2000]

Thanks, Charrito. I probably would have figured it out as I went back through the posts carefully. I was thinking that Camiño Real was a place not an establishment, and must have been thinking of Camiño Grande (?), which is right after a spot where many people used to get lost.

You would think that the authorities would want to speed up the development of infrastructure, but I guess bureaucrats are the same the world over.

I will be getting down to serious work next week! Buen camino, Laurie