geraldkelly
Active Member
- Time of past OR future Camino
- Camino Francés, Vía de la Plata / Camino Sanabrés, Camino del Baztán, Camino Aragonés, Chemin du Puy
I walked the 2nd half of the Vía in May / June, starting again from Zamora where I left off in February. Before going to Zamora I made a quick detour to Plasencia to walk the Vía Verde. I wanted to walk it to see what it was like and to be able to accurately describe it in the guide.
Things got off to a strange start, from the train station in Plasencia I followed the signs for the Vía Verde and ended up in a slightly rough looking neighbourhood. I wasn't worried, I've been around Spain a lot and I've never had any problems, then a police car came down the street towards me and stopped. They asked me where I was going and I told them I was looking for the Vía Verde. They said OK but you shouldn't be here, it's not safe. (barrio conflictivo was the expression they used). Anyway, they were very nice and actually accompanied me to the start of the Vía Verde, which was only around the corner. I had taken a wrong turn and shouldn't have ended up in this neighbourhood.
I didn't feel in danger but I suppose it's a good rule that if the police tell you you're in danger you should believe them!
It all went smoothly after that. The Vía Verde is a wonderful walk with a good walking surface. There were far more cyclists than walkers but there's loads of room for everyone, it's an old railway line so it's about 4m wide.
It was already dark by the time I arrived to Hostal Asturias so I had a shower and went straight to bed. Hostal Asturias was pleasant, just as it has been every time I've stayed there.
The next morning I got back on the Vía Verde and walked as far as Hervás, here I branched off to go down into the town because I had no food and I was hungry. Hervás is a nice little town if you fancy some sight-seeing. Afterwards instead of retracing my steps I followed a track on Openstreetmaps and rejoined the Vía Verde north of the town (it does a massive loop around the town). I saved a bit of distance that way but it was a tough climb up in the afternoon sun.
Once I was back on the Vía Verde it was level all the way to Puente de Béjar. I stayed at the Amigos Albergue. Lovely place but unfortunately there was a group of people who were cooking an elaborate meal which required three of the four rings on the cooker and took hours. I got a tin of fabada from the petrol station and heated it up. Better than nothing. Later a group of Spanish cyclists arrived and made a load of noise for hours. I went for a walk, it was all a bit much.
The next morning I walked down to Béjar town itself (it's not on the Camino). The town looked interesting but it was cold and threatening rain so I didn't hang around, instead I got the bus to Salamanca and from there another bus to Zamora where I'd finished in February. This was the start of the real Camino.
The municipal in Zamora was wonderful as always. Donativo with a good breakfast (although I understand that isn't all year round).
A pretty flat and uneventful day, a stop in Montamarta for food then on to Fontanillas de Castro where I stayed in the amazing Albergue Castroterafe. The hospitaleros were wonderful, cooked us a lovely dinner.
The next day I walked to Tábara, bypassing Granja de Moreruela. Long day and pretty hot, after the bridge I walked the road as far as Faramontanos de Tábara, I didn't fancy that endless straight bit. The road walk was fine, very little traffic.
The municipal in Tábara has a beautiful new building with room for 24 pilgrims. It's in a separate building just beside the old building which is still in use for the communal evening meal. There's was a nice group of other pilgrims.
Fairly short walk to Santa Marta de Tera, nice albergue, the hospitalero had the day off so we were left to our own devices. Plato combinado in the bar across the road. Mostly the same pilgrims as in Tábara, we hung out in the bar and went to bed early. The shop there has closed.
The next day I walked to Rionegro del Puente with several stops along the way and tea and biscuits in Villar de Farfón with Craig. Dinner in Me Gusta Comer, still don't know why so many people rave about this restaurant, I though it was OK.
Coffee and shopping in Monbuey then the long beautiful walk through forests and small villages to Asturianos. Saw several deer and a hare. Dinner in Bar Meson El Carmen on the main road was good.
A brief stop in Puebla de Sanabria to buy food then onward to Requejo de Sanabria, where I slept in the municipal. Dinner in Restaurante Tu Casa where it seems nothing's changed in about fifty years! The food was very good and very good value.
The next day was a chance to check again the route after Requejo. It's changed again since last summer, hopefully for the last time. At least the AVE construction is over. The detour sign is still there shortly after Requeja, ignore it! Lunch in Hotel Padornelo and then on to Lubián where I slept in the municipal. I can't remember which restaurant I ate in, but I know for a fact they're both good.
I got lost after passing Santuario de La Tuiza and ended up walking beside the motorway for a while where there are also yellow arrows. Luckily it merges with the normal route after a couple of km. In A Gudiña I went to the fantastic new Xunta Albergue. Suddenly there was a lot of pilgrims I never saw before. No idea where they all came from. Dinner was in Café San Francisco, which is a roadside café beside a petrol station, it was excellent. I went back for breakfast! This being Galicia we had a massive downpour in the evening.
Campobecerros, unbelievable rain storm in the early afternoon, the whole village was like a river. Dinner in Casa Nuñez was good. Slept in Albergue Rosario, only five of us, presume everyone else went on to Laza.
Short stop in As Eiras then on to Laza for food and coffee before tackling the climb up to Alberguería. Before I got there there was a heavy shower, luckily I had my €3 umbrella so I waited it out under a tree. El Rincón del Peregrino was closed in Alberguería because it was Monday but the hospitalero opened it long enough to check us in and sell us some food. I made pasta in the albergue. Massive thunderstorm and another biblical downpour in the evening. Only three of us here.
Quick shopping in Vilar de Barrio then on to Xunqueira de Ambía. Made dinner in the albergue, one of the few Xunta Albergues where that's possible! Only four pilgrims here. (where did everybody go?)
Got an early start and made it to Ourense shortly after the albergue opened. The Xunta Albergue has a lot of stairs. Luckily it's also got a lift! Lunch in a small restaurant called La Brava, nice and fancier than the pilgrim menus. Three pilgrims here tonight.
After this it got a bit confused because I did some to'ing and fro'ing. But I'll describe it in Camino order.
Anyway, up early and good breakfast in Bar Montgre then straight through to Cea where I stopped to shop and for lunch, then I continued on to Oseira. My first time in the Xunta Albergue there. It's what you'd expect from the Xunta who don't seem to short of a few bob when it comes to building pilgrim hostels. It was Monday so neither of the cafés were open so I ate the tin of fish that's been lurking in the bottom of my rucksack for about two weeks. I also had some bread, so I didn't go hungry. Loads of people in the albergue, couldn't even count them. It's the first time I see luggage transfer and even a few suitcases! People in their own groups keeping to themselves, as you'd expect on the last 100km.
Lunch in Castro Dozón and a visit to the supermarket. Then on to A Laxe. Long enough day with lots of small climbs, but the weather was pleasant. A Laxe Xunta Albergue seems to have been built in a swamp judging by the number of mosquitoes. I eventually repurposed my Xunta-issued bedsheet into a mosquito net. It worked pretty well too. Not a single bite! One guy brought his extremely stinky shoes into the dorm and I asked him (extremely politely) to put them outside where they were supposed to be. He was obviously annoyed by this and he told me it wouldn't make much difference because his clothes stank too. I didn't continue the conversation. He waited about ten minutes then he put his shoes outside. Lots of groups here again tonight, one woman has her car, I saw her getting out of it when I went for a walk. Why????
Silleda, Bandeira, it's all a bit of a blur. There was lunch, there was shopping. Then I arrived in Leiras. I've passed by loads of times but I've never actually stopped here. It's a real treat. In the middle of nowhere, run by a young Italian couple. Another gem on the Camino! Excellent dinner and breakfast (and company)!
Short day to Ponte Ulla to the excellent Albergue O Cruceiro. Shopping in the amazingly well-stocked supermarket. Dinner in the albergue was good.
Easy day into Santiago with a stop in A Susana for a bite to eat. Shacked up in my usual place near the cathedral. Santiago wasn't very busy, at least not nearly as busy as I've seen it in summer before. I didn't stick around, I had other plans.
Anyway, the updates to the guide are done, you can see the latest version by downloading the free PDF https://www.viadelaplataguide.net/pages/download or from the online guide. The apps have also been updated. There'll be a new print edition in September.
Gerald
Things got off to a strange start, from the train station in Plasencia I followed the signs for the Vía Verde and ended up in a slightly rough looking neighbourhood. I wasn't worried, I've been around Spain a lot and I've never had any problems, then a police car came down the street towards me and stopped. They asked me where I was going and I told them I was looking for the Vía Verde. They said OK but you shouldn't be here, it's not safe. (barrio conflictivo was the expression they used). Anyway, they were very nice and actually accompanied me to the start of the Vía Verde, which was only around the corner. I had taken a wrong turn and shouldn't have ended up in this neighbourhood.
I didn't feel in danger but I suppose it's a good rule that if the police tell you you're in danger you should believe them!
It all went smoothly after that. The Vía Verde is a wonderful walk with a good walking surface. There were far more cyclists than walkers but there's loads of room for everyone, it's an old railway line so it's about 4m wide.
It was already dark by the time I arrived to Hostal Asturias so I had a shower and went straight to bed. Hostal Asturias was pleasant, just as it has been every time I've stayed there.
The next morning I got back on the Vía Verde and walked as far as Hervás, here I branched off to go down into the town because I had no food and I was hungry. Hervás is a nice little town if you fancy some sight-seeing. Afterwards instead of retracing my steps I followed a track on Openstreetmaps and rejoined the Vía Verde north of the town (it does a massive loop around the town). I saved a bit of distance that way but it was a tough climb up in the afternoon sun.
Once I was back on the Vía Verde it was level all the way to Puente de Béjar. I stayed at the Amigos Albergue. Lovely place but unfortunately there was a group of people who were cooking an elaborate meal which required three of the four rings on the cooker and took hours. I got a tin of fabada from the petrol station and heated it up. Better than nothing. Later a group of Spanish cyclists arrived and made a load of noise for hours. I went for a walk, it was all a bit much.
The next morning I walked down to Béjar town itself (it's not on the Camino). The town looked interesting but it was cold and threatening rain so I didn't hang around, instead I got the bus to Salamanca and from there another bus to Zamora where I'd finished in February. This was the start of the real Camino.
The municipal in Zamora was wonderful as always. Donativo with a good breakfast (although I understand that isn't all year round).
A pretty flat and uneventful day, a stop in Montamarta for food then on to Fontanillas de Castro where I stayed in the amazing Albergue Castroterafe. The hospitaleros were wonderful, cooked us a lovely dinner.
The next day I walked to Tábara, bypassing Granja de Moreruela. Long day and pretty hot, after the bridge I walked the road as far as Faramontanos de Tábara, I didn't fancy that endless straight bit. The road walk was fine, very little traffic.
The municipal in Tábara has a beautiful new building with room for 24 pilgrims. It's in a separate building just beside the old building which is still in use for the communal evening meal. There's was a nice group of other pilgrims.
Fairly short walk to Santa Marta de Tera, nice albergue, the hospitalero had the day off so we were left to our own devices. Plato combinado in the bar across the road. Mostly the same pilgrims as in Tábara, we hung out in the bar and went to bed early. The shop there has closed.
The next day I walked to Rionegro del Puente with several stops along the way and tea and biscuits in Villar de Farfón with Craig. Dinner in Me Gusta Comer, still don't know why so many people rave about this restaurant, I though it was OK.
Coffee and shopping in Monbuey then the long beautiful walk through forests and small villages to Asturianos. Saw several deer and a hare. Dinner in Bar Meson El Carmen on the main road was good.
A brief stop in Puebla de Sanabria to buy food then onward to Requejo de Sanabria, where I slept in the municipal. Dinner in Restaurante Tu Casa where it seems nothing's changed in about fifty years! The food was very good and very good value.
The next day was a chance to check again the route after Requejo. It's changed again since last summer, hopefully for the last time. At least the AVE construction is over. The detour sign is still there shortly after Requeja, ignore it! Lunch in Hotel Padornelo and then on to Lubián where I slept in the municipal. I can't remember which restaurant I ate in, but I know for a fact they're both good.
I got lost after passing Santuario de La Tuiza and ended up walking beside the motorway for a while where there are also yellow arrows. Luckily it merges with the normal route after a couple of km. In A Gudiña I went to the fantastic new Xunta Albergue. Suddenly there was a lot of pilgrims I never saw before. No idea where they all came from. Dinner was in Café San Francisco, which is a roadside café beside a petrol station, it was excellent. I went back for breakfast! This being Galicia we had a massive downpour in the evening.
Campobecerros, unbelievable rain storm in the early afternoon, the whole village was like a river. Dinner in Casa Nuñez was good. Slept in Albergue Rosario, only five of us, presume everyone else went on to Laza.
Short stop in As Eiras then on to Laza for food and coffee before tackling the climb up to Alberguería. Before I got there there was a heavy shower, luckily I had my €3 umbrella so I waited it out under a tree. El Rincón del Peregrino was closed in Alberguería because it was Monday but the hospitalero opened it long enough to check us in and sell us some food. I made pasta in the albergue. Massive thunderstorm and another biblical downpour in the evening. Only three of us here.
Quick shopping in Vilar de Barrio then on to Xunqueira de Ambía. Made dinner in the albergue, one of the few Xunta Albergues where that's possible! Only four pilgrims here. (where did everybody go?)
Got an early start and made it to Ourense shortly after the albergue opened. The Xunta Albergue has a lot of stairs. Luckily it's also got a lift! Lunch in a small restaurant called La Brava, nice and fancier than the pilgrim menus. Three pilgrims here tonight.
After this it got a bit confused because I did some to'ing and fro'ing. But I'll describe it in Camino order.
Anyway, up early and good breakfast in Bar Montgre then straight through to Cea where I stopped to shop and for lunch, then I continued on to Oseira. My first time in the Xunta Albergue there. It's what you'd expect from the Xunta who don't seem to short of a few bob when it comes to building pilgrim hostels. It was Monday so neither of the cafés were open so I ate the tin of fish that's been lurking in the bottom of my rucksack for about two weeks. I also had some bread, so I didn't go hungry. Loads of people in the albergue, couldn't even count them. It's the first time I see luggage transfer and even a few suitcases! People in their own groups keeping to themselves, as you'd expect on the last 100km.
Lunch in Castro Dozón and a visit to the supermarket. Then on to A Laxe. Long enough day with lots of small climbs, but the weather was pleasant. A Laxe Xunta Albergue seems to have been built in a swamp judging by the number of mosquitoes. I eventually repurposed my Xunta-issued bedsheet into a mosquito net. It worked pretty well too. Not a single bite! One guy brought his extremely stinky shoes into the dorm and I asked him (extremely politely) to put them outside where they were supposed to be. He was obviously annoyed by this and he told me it wouldn't make much difference because his clothes stank too. I didn't continue the conversation. He waited about ten minutes then he put his shoes outside. Lots of groups here again tonight, one woman has her car, I saw her getting out of it when I went for a walk. Why????
Silleda, Bandeira, it's all a bit of a blur. There was lunch, there was shopping. Then I arrived in Leiras. I've passed by loads of times but I've never actually stopped here. It's a real treat. In the middle of nowhere, run by a young Italian couple. Another gem on the Camino! Excellent dinner and breakfast (and company)!
Short day to Ponte Ulla to the excellent Albergue O Cruceiro. Shopping in the amazingly well-stocked supermarket. Dinner in the albergue was good.
Easy day into Santiago with a stop in A Susana for a bite to eat. Shacked up in my usual place near the cathedral. Santiago wasn't very busy, at least not nearly as busy as I've seen it in summer before. I didn't stick around, I had other plans.
Anyway, the updates to the guide are done, you can see the latest version by downloading the free PDF https://www.viadelaplataguide.net/pages/download or from the online guide. The apps have also been updated. There'll be a new print edition in September.
Gerald
