Questions - leaving for the Via Campaniensis soon!

[Orione]

I have so many pre-journey jitters!

I walked the Via Limburgica from Venlo (The Netherlands) through to Rocroi in France last year. It was very difficult to find accomodation, and some parts of it were hard & not fun, but other parts were absolutely incredible & beautiful, and I have a new & deep appreciation of our Belgian neighbours & their nature & culture now.

The camino calls again! I want to try to walk from Rocroi (or Couvin) to Vezelay.
This time (at least during the first few days, according to the few blogs I have seen) accomodation will be even harder to come by & so are food & water.

I will take some cheap light meals with me, my own tent & a water filter, and hopefully that will see me through to Reims and beyond. Alledgedly it gets a little better in terms of shops & accomodations from then on.

I would love to hear tips of anyone who has walked this route. Which resting places were excellent? What was your favourite part of this via? Is there any shade between Rocroi & Reims, or should I plan to avoid walking for long on the truly hot days coming up? Any cafe or food stop that stood out? Are there any sources of water, other than asking at a farm/village? Any favourite thing that you brought with you/ wish had brought on this part of the camino? I would love to hear about any tips that you can give me.

And last but not least: did anyone besides Radio Buen Camino (excellent vlogs!) walk from Couvin into Rocroi? I’m planning this start to the via Campaniensis, but Radio Buen Camino took a beautiful detour on that first day, and I think I should try to avoid detouring already. Did anyone walk without detour? How many kilometers was it? Was it doable? Are there Camino signs? Is it a forrest path, or do I need to then walk on the side of a highway? I can’t find any other info on it…

 

[mspath]

Orione,

To begin your research do check out this earlier thread re walking from Paris to Vezelay which links several posts which you might find useful.

For additional pilgrim accommodation throughout France in the local tourist offices do ask about the donativo Chaîne d'Hospitalité Locale . This hot link is for the camino Chaine to Vezelay

Those who offer pilgrims such hospitality do so for the pleasure of meeting/greeting pilgrims as well as helping them. Using such a system you may even be able to pitch your tent in some host's backyard.

Please be aware that throughout France most local cemeteries have water taps which are useful for filling your canteen or water bottles.

However you travel/wherever you do stay Carpe diem!

 

[Orione]

Thank you!

Water from the cemetery is such a wonderful resource! I had read it, but thought it was more of a myth than an actual thing. Very good to know that it is true! I will look out for them.

And thank you for the links! I have a German guide book (with lots of nice, well organised information and also a few addresses), but I guess I will buy the ebook version of the French guide too then, just in hopes that there will be a few more accomodation options to choose from!

 

[Kitsambler]

If any of your planned route is on one of the GR routes, you may find a guide in French here: https://boutique.ffrandonnee.fr/. and there may be a corresponding map available here: https://www.gr-infos.com/
We would love to read continuing reports on your progress! Bon Chemin.

 

[Orione]

Thank you so much! These maps gave me a little more info on a walking route from Couvin to Rocroi, for the last part, at least. I think the last part may have been the route that I walked into Rocroi from last year, too! That will be nice to revisit.

The GR 654 intersects and overlaps with some of the via Campaniensis, but from what I have read, the pelgrims & carers for the road made the Campaniensis a somewhat shorter and more direct route to Vezelay , while still leading one through the most beautiful & interesting places. As the distance currently dazzles me, I will trust the carers of the road & try and stick to the Campaniensis as much as I can. I did the Limburgica somewhat creatively, so we’ll see if I can stick to the plan better this time.

I loved reading both of your blogs! Very interesting reads & wonderful adventures.
And I found this Dutch language blog on the Campaniensis, just in case future pelgrims stumble upon this thread. https://www.pindat.com/pindata/user/michaelsvoettocht/2021-08-05

I will try, if I can, keep you updated with a live thread.

 

[ThreeWishes]

I walked some of this route recently, leaving from Reims in mid May.

I suggest purchasing the guide produced by the Randonneurs et Pelerins 51 association.

This blog may also be of interest.

As you noted, the via Campaniensis overlaps with other routes, so you have several options for making your way to Vezelay according to your interests and ability. I followed the GR 654 from Reims to Brienne-le-Chateau, then made my own way west to Troyes and continued mostly on the via Campaniensis, making a slight detour to stop in Auxerre.

AirBnB and Google Maps were useful for finding accommodation. As the Champagne region is a popular tourist destination, I would advise booking at least a few days in advance. My favorite overnight stop was at Chez Mathilde in Eaux Puiseaux- a beautiful, comfortable room and memorable meal provided by an absolutely adorable hostess and her family.

Bon chemin!

 

[Orione]

Thank you, ThreeWishes! That is very valuable information.

What made you choose the GR654 route between Reims & Troyes over the Campaniensis one, if you don’t mind sharing?

For future pilgrims, I just found a gps track that leads from Couvin directly to the french border, very close to Rocroi. It’s by the tourism office of Couvin, so I have good hopes that they will have marked the route, possibly even with shell signs! And potentially also that the French picked the route up from the border to Rocroi center.
But a gps track for peace of mind is always nice. Here it is: https://tourisme-couvin.be/bouger-2...o=module&custom_group=block-vignettes-classic
(Office du Tourisme Couvins - Toutes Nos Ballades - Compostelle via Vézelay)

Alternatively, here is the track (and video) by Radio Buen Camino, a route that goes past the old bunkers of Hitler from the start of WOII, but a route that does add quite a few kilometers. On the plus side, it leads across the border, all the way from Couvin to Rocroi. https://vrijeradio.be/radiobuencamino/via-campaniensis.php#PART37

 

[ThreeWishes]

I thought the towns along the GR looked more interesting than those on the via Campeniensis. Because the GR and the via Francigena overlap for a few stages from Reims, I found some pilgrim-oriented lodging possibilities available.

I had never been to this part of France and wasn't in a hurry, so I was happy to take the more circuitous path!