Primitivo or coastal route

[ioannisluca]

I'm going to walk the Camino del Norte next July... Would you recommend the Camino primitivo or the Camino de la Costa after Sebrayo?

Thanks

Ultreya
Gianluca

 

[peregrina2000]

Hi, gianlucca,
This topic has come up before, and the bottom line is that it is an extremely tough decision, and either choice is excellent. So that's no help, I know.

I have walked both of these routes. When I walked the Norte from Irun, I stayed on the Camino del Norte the whole way, staying on the coast to Ribadeo, and then going inland through Galicia to Santiago. When I walked the Primitivo, I started in Leon and first walked the Salvador to Oviedo and then continued on the Primitivo.

Here are a couple of things that might make a difference to you. If you are a true Camino addict, and if it's likely that you are going to return again and again to the camino, I'd say stick to the norte for the entire trip, and leave the Primitivo for another year, maybe combining it with the Salvador. I say that because I think most people are very unlikely to come back to "finish up" the norte if they detour south to Oviedo from Villaviciosa.

But if you don't plan a repeat performance on the camino, then I'd say leave it up to the moment at which you have to make the turn-off, and then just go with the flow -- by then you will have your friends or "camino family", and you will see which way they are planning to go.

In terms of a straight up comparison, as betwen the Primitivo or the Norte after Gijon, the main obvious difference is that you leave the coast for the Primitivo. But by then you will have had a lot of coast if you've walked from Irun. So, I guess this is a long-winded way of saying they are both extremely beautiful, they both have good pilgrim infrastructure, and they both have enough pilgrims walking to create the camino sense of community. Toss a coin. Buen camino, Laurie

 

[Jeff Stys]

Laurie:

Having walked the same routes you did....you provided excellent advice....I second your recommendations!

Jeff

 

[AJ]

I too have walked both routes. Like Laurie I combined the Salvador with the Primitivo. I completely agree with her advice.

I would add that the Norte from Ribadeo on is very special. Sunken tracks, sylvan tunnels, more fairies than you can poke a stick at.

 

[AJ]

I too have walked both routes. like laurie I combined the salvador with the Primitivo. I completely agree with her advice.

I would add that the Norte from Ribadeo on is very special. Sunken tracks, sylvan tunnels and more fairies than you can poke a stick at.

 

[ioannisluca]

Thank you all for your reply!

Dear Laurie,
your advice is always precious...
After the Camino Portuguese in 2010 last summer I walked the Via Podiensis from Le puy to St. Jean PdP...it was great! Next year I think I'll start from Santander, I'll go with the flow (or flip a coin ) at the crossing...
During Xmas holidays I'm going to walk the Camino Frances from Ponferrada to Santiago... do you have a word of advice for that, too? I walked St.Jean-Santiago some years ago but it was during summer...

Thanks
Buen Camino, Gianluca

 

[peregrina2000]

Hi, Gianluca,

Yes, I think I remember that we communicated about your Caminho Portugues several years ago (can never be sure with this aging memory).

So, you're walking from Ponferrada..... I walked this past summer from Ponferrada to Santiago on the Camino de Invierno. It is a newly marked route, and the marking is excellent. If you look on the forum's Camino de Invierno section you'll find several posts from those of us who recently walked. I've got one with my stages, accommodation, etc. You are likely to be alone, the scenery is gorgeous, and you go through several very interesting places (As Medulas, the town of Monforte de Lemos, walking along the Sil River, crossing the Minho, an amazing number of chestnut groves) -- but I'm not sure how winter will change things. There are 2 or 3 albergues on this route, so mostly you're going to have to stay in pensiones. But if you are tempted, look at the Invierno section, and I think you'll get a pretty good idea.

I know that the Invierno originated as a lower altitude alternative to the Camino Frances, better for winter walking and hence the name. So that might be a benefit in December.

Buen camino, Laurie

p.s. Rebekah has an excellent online Invierno guide on the Confraternity of St. James website, http://www.csj.org.uk/CamInvierno2011.pdf and I have some micro-level comments on some of the stages that I'd be happy to send if you are interested.

 

[Rebekah Scott]

A note on the Invierno: A recent pilgrim warns that MUD is a major obstacle early on, esp. the day out of Puente de Domingo Florez. Winter may not be the best time for the Invierno!

 

[ioannisluca]

Well,
maybe my message was not so clear
I'll go on the "main route" - no Invierno...! - from Ponferrada to Santiago during Xmas holidays (that is, Cebreiro, Portomarin, Sarria, etc.) and I wondered if you could tell me something useful...even if I have my own idea about it :-D

And yes Laurie,
we talked about the Portuguese Camino last year... I read your guide and wrote something about my trip when I returned back from Porto... I walked from Lisbon to Porto during summer, and during Xmas holidays I went from Porto to Santiago. It was a good walk, not too cold, no snow... just a "little" rainy last 3-4 days in Galizia :-D I bet it's much colder on the Camino Francès...

Talking about the Camino del Norte (Primitivo option...) - even if there'll be time to talk about it...- do you think that 20 days are enough to go from Santander to Santiago?

Love,
Gianluca