Primitivo is calling, but concerned about the amount of people..

[Citronit]

Hey fellow pilgrims!

This will be my third camino and just found this forum now-I've been missing out!

I'm privileged to have 16 days in the middle of May to walk a camino, and the Primitivo is calling. (I've previously done the Portuguese and Frances one).

I am concerned though that the Primitivo will be very empty? What lingers with me from the other camino, except the wonderful food and nature and the spectacular way I find peace on the roads, is also the amazing conversations had with fellow pilgrims over a glass of red at the end of the day.

So, all you primitivo lovers- if meeting others is important to me, is the Primitivo my way?

Thank you in advance and wish you well on coming walks of the soul

 

[Deleted member 73526]

Perhaps walk a couple of days and if it doesn't feel right, take a bus to Ponferrada to do the Frances again?

 

[Citronit]

Perhaps walk a couple of days and if it doesn't feel right, take a bus to Ponferrada to do the Frances again?

That's a fair point, I don't know why it feels like a have to make a decision now. Perhaps it's the nerves talking, trying to control something uncontrollable. Thank you for your reply

 

[Deleted member 73892]

Hi Citronit - from what you write, it sounds as though the Primitivo is 'calling' you, that you have a strong and distinct urge to venture upon that Camino. That is what happens to me: I feel a pull toward a particular route, and when upon it have special and often essential experiences. It depends upon your instinct - how strong is the motivation - does it feel profound, should you allay your concerns - how strong is the emotional pull, or do you feel it is more of a whim, an idea? Or should you 'blindly' go and see what lies upon that path? Its down to you, your fears and doubts, or motivation and instinct. Only you can decide. Its natural to have doubts, but upon one camino I over-nighted in a large Municipal Alberque with one other guy and we both offered ideas and philosophy to one another that were profound to us both - and made sense of my need to walk that particular Camino. Good luck and best wishes. Keith.

 

[Antonius Vaessen]

I walled the primitivo 3 years ago, also in the second half of . I did not find it lonely, as far as I remember in any albergue era stayed in there were at least 5 other pilgrims. I cannot compare with the France's or Portuguese, because I never walked them (to busy for me)

 

[Thomas1962]

According to the statistics from the pilgrim office, last year there were more then 1700 pilgrims doing the primitivo in may last year, which is an average of more the 50 a day.... For me this amount look like room enough to be by myself and as well to meet others in albergues

 

[peregrina2000]

In the middle of May, the Primitivo will be anything but empty! When I read the title, I assumed you were wondering whether the crowds would be causing a bed rush. That happens in some bottleneck parts, but in late May you should be fine. As Thomas says, the numbers should be just perfect for meeting others and enjoying some peaceful walking. Buen camino, Laurie

 

[musicman]

For me, a lack of too many people is a bonus!
However, I’m walking it in June with an amigo.
The Via de la Plata is an even less travelled Camino than the Primitivo,
but when we walked it we made some good friends and had good company enough.
Perhaps these two Caminos need that extra bit of commitment and that in itself guarantees you will meet some “ characters” !
Go for it - Buen Camino.

 

[Francois de Meillon]

Hey fellow pilgrims!

This will be my third camino and just found this forum now-I've been missing out!

I'm privileged to have 16 days in the middle of May to walk a camino, and the Primitivo is calling. (I've previously done the Portuguese and Frances one).

I am concerned though that the Primitivo will be very empty? What lingers with me from the other camino, except the wonderful food and nature and the spectacular way I find peace on the roads, is also the amazing conversations had with fellow pilgrims over a glass of red at the end of the day.

So, all you primitivo lovers- if meeting others is important to me, is the Primitivo my way?

Thank you in advance and wish you well on coming walks of the soul

Hey fellow pilgrims!

This will be my third camino and just found this forum now-I've been missing out!

I'm privileged to have 16 days in the middle of May to walk a camino, and the Primitivo is calling. (I've previously done the Portuguese and Frances one).

I am concerned though that the Primitivo will be very empty? What lingers with me from the other camino, except the wonderful food and nature and the spectacular way I find peace on the roads, is also the amazing conversations had with fellow pilgrims over a glass of red at the end of the day.

So, all you primitivo lovers- if meeting others is important to me, is the Primitivo my way?

Thank you in advance and wish you well on coming walks of the soul

Hallo Citronit, I think the variety of advice that you've is good and fair. It is your walk and you must make the hard decisions before or along the way.
I am thinking of walking the Primitivo over the last two weeks of Dec and the first week of Jan 20. Many will say madness but it will be a unique experience.
Keep us posted on your choices and walk as it will encourage and challenge us to also embrace our hopes and fears. I will do the same once I've made a decision.
Buon Camino.

 

[jungleboy]

I walked the Primitivo last year in the last week of May and first week of June. There were about 15 pilgrims doing the same stages as my wife and I. We had a good group and found that to be a great number to have - much less than the Francés, which can be overwhelming, but more than the Madrid, which I’m walking now.

 

[Citronit]

Hi Citronit - from what you write, it sounds as though the Primitivo is 'calling' you, that you have a strong and distinct urge to venture upon that Camino. That is what happens to me: I feel a pull toward a particular route, and when upon it have special and often essential experiences. It depends upon your instinct - how strong is the motivation - does it feel profound, should you allay your concerns - how strong is the emotional pull, or do you feel it is more of a whim, an idea? Or should you 'blindly' go and see what lies upon that path? Its down to you, your fears and doubts, or motivation and instinct. Only you can decide. Its natural to have doubts, but upon one camino I over-nighted in a large Municipal Alberque with one other guy and we both offered ideas and philosophy to one another that were profound to us both - and made sense of my need to walk that particular Camino. Good luck and best wishes. Keith.

Thank you thank you thank you for your kind reply. You asked the questions I needed to ask myself.

 

[Citronit]

I walked the Primitivo last year in the last week of May and first week of June. There were about 15 pilgrims doing the same stages as my wife and I. We had a good group and found that to be a great number to have - much less than the Francés, which can be overwhelming, but more than the Madrid, which I’m walking now.

Thank you for helping me make this decision Much appreciated!

 

[Citronit]

Hallo Citronit, I think the variety of advice that you've is good and fair. It is your walk and you must make the hard decisions before or along the way.
I am thinking of walking the Primitivo over the last two weeks of Dec and the first week of Jan 20. Many will say madness but it will be a unique experience.
Keep us posted on your choices and walk as it will encourage and challenge us to also embrace our hopes and fears. I will do the same once I've made a decision.
Buon Camino.

I'm just blown away by the responses from you, my fellow pilgrims. Thank you so much Francois, you have inspired me!

 

[Citronit]

For me, a lack of too many people is a bonus!
However, I’m walking it in June with an amigo.
The Via de la Plata is an even less travelled Camino than the Primitivo,
but when we walked it we made some good friends and had good company enough.
Perhaps these two Caminos need that extra bit of commitment and that in itself guarantees you will meet some “ characters” !
Go for it - Buen Camino.

Haha I didn't think of it that way! will look forward to meeting the characters thank you!

 

[Citronit]

In the middle of May, the Primitivo will be anything but empty! When I read the title, I assumed you were wondering whether the crowds would be causing a bed rush. That happens in some bottleneck parts, but in late May you should be fine. As Thomas says, the numbers should be just perfect for meeting others and enjoying some peaceful walking. Buen camino, Laurie

This is so reassuring, thank you very much! I'm excited now

 

[Citronit]

According to the statistics from the pilgrim office, last year there were more then 1700 pilgrims doing the primitivo in may last year, which is an average of more the 50 a day.... For me this amount look like room enough to be by myself and as well to meet others in albergues

Thank you, this is very helpful to me in my decision making!

 

[Anna Sar]

No worries. You'll be praying for a bed after Hospitales if it helps

 

[Citronit]

No worries. You'll be praying for a bed after Hospitales if it helps

Phew! Or maybe not... thanks!!

 

[Hansel]

Hallo Citronit, I think the variety of advice that you've is good and fair. It is your walk and you must make the hard decisions before or along the way.
I am thinking of walking the Primitivo over the last two weeks of Dec and the first week of Jan 20. Many will say madness but it will be a unique experience.
Keep us posted on your choices and walk as it will encourage and challenge us to also embrace our hopes and fears. I will do the same once I've made a decision.
Buon Camino.

It will be interesting to walk then, you will have to keep us posted of your progress when the time comes,
I have walked the GR221 on Majorca in December and March, would be looking at one of the caminos starting in the South of Spain at the time of year you're heading out,
Bill

 

[Deleted member 73892]

Thank you thank you thank you for your kind reply. You asked the questions I needed to ask myself.

You're very welcome Citronit - its good to know we can help in some way. Best wishes and good luck. Keith

 

[Chica36]

My friends and I are doing the second part of the Primitivo from 24th May so our paths may cross

 

[mminalaska]

Hey fellow pilgrims!

This will be my third camino and just found this forum now-I've been missing out!

I'm privileged to have 16 days in the middle of May to walk a camino, and the Primitivo is calling. (I've previously done the Portuguese and Frances one).

I am concerned though that the Primitivo will be very empty? What lingers with me from the other camino, except the wonderful food and nature and the spectacular way I find peace on the roads, is also the amazing conversations had with fellow pilgrims over a glass of red at the end of the day.

So, all you primitivo lovers- if meeting others is important to me, is the Primitivo my way?

Thank you in advance and wish you well on coming walks of the soul

The Primitivo is fantastic! There will be others on it, many of them because it is less crowded. You will likely find interesting conversations and you may get to know the Primitivo friends better than you would on more popular, and populous, Camino routes.

 

[Alx]

We're walking the Primitivo in May 7-18, so you have a chance to meet at least three of us.

 

[Davey Boyd]

You won't be lonely on the Primitivo in May. Don't worry, go for it, the Primitivo will not disappoint you!

Buen Camino!

 

[Beeman]

Hallo Citronit, I think the variety of advice that you've is good and fair. It is your walk and you must make the hard decisions before or along the way.
I am thinking of walking the Primitivo over the last two weeks of Dec and the first week of Jan 20. Many will say madness but it will be a unique experience.
Keep us posted on your choices and walk as it will encourage and challenge us to also embrace our hopes and fears. I will do the same once I've made a decision.
Buon Camino.

The primitivo is much like the Salvador in that winter travel is discouraged. However I saw videos of someone walking the Salvador in December with just a whiff of snow on the ground. I think that there are times when it is possible and times when it is impossible,depending on your luck. I think that a person would have to be very flexible with his timing and accomodations. All of that said,it would not be something that I would do,but Buen Camino anyway.

 

[Beeman]

Citronit, I walked the Primitivo in September of 17 and found it perfect! There were always some people on the trail that you could walk with if you chose,or walk alone if you wanted. The walk to Muxia was more lonely as I saw only a few people on the trail,but would be there at the end of the day. I would also say that you check out the verde camino which from Boimorto on the Norte,can take you all the way to Santiago. It is well marked and very lovely.

 

[Cary]

I am concerned though that the Primitivo will be very empty?

I will be out there!

 

[Tazz]

I walked the Salvador followed by the Primitivo starting May 10th 2017.
There were plenty of people to meet. In Grado there was not enough room in the albegue and people had to walk 5km extra to the next town (without services). Other than that I was able to find accommodations with out concern and met lots of nice people. Beware of the culture shock when you join the CF for your last 2 days. You will wish there were fewer people.

Jamie.

 

[Citronit]

Hello again! Just wanted to say thank you to everyone encouraging me. I'm leaving fear of the unknown behind (or slightly tucked away at least) and starting my camino next week.

I'm excited!

 

[peregrina2000]

I walked the Salvador followed by the Primitivo starting May 10th 2017.
There were plenty of people to meet. In Grado there was not enough room in the albegue and people had to walk 5km extra to the next town (without services). Other than that I was able to find accommodations with out concern and met lots of nice people. Beware of the culture shock when you join the CF for your last 2 days. You will wish there were fewer people.

Jamie.

The Grado albergue is extremely popular, and I’ll bet it has been full some nights already this early in the season. A private albergue has opened in Grado, though, so that should help open things up a lot. http://www.alberguelaquintana.com/en/home-ingles/ It is located in what is called a “casa de indianos”, homes built by people who went to the Americas and made their fortune. It looks pretty nice! There is also a cheap hotel (Hotel Auto or something like that) that, in addition to its hotel rooms, has apartments across the street at a very reasonable price. Another option is to walk a few more kms on to San Juan de la Villapañada.

 

[Citronit]

The Grado albergue is extremely popular, and I’ll bet it has been full some nights already this early in the season. A private albergue has opened in Grado, though, so that should help open things up a lot. http://www.alberguelaquintana.com/en/home-ingles/ It is located in what is called a “casa de indianos”, homes built by people who went to the Americas and made their fortune. It looks pretty nice! There is also a cheap hotel (Hotel Auto or something like that) that, in addition to its hotel rooms, has apartments across the street at a very reasonable price. Another option is to walk a few more kms on to San Juan de la Villapañada.

Thank you so much!!!

 

[Isca-camigo]

H

Hallo Citronit, I think the variety of advice that you've is good and fair. It is your walk and you must make the hard decisions before or along the way.
I am thinking of walking the Primitivo over the last two weeks of Dec and the first week of Jan 20. Many will say madness but it will be a unique experience.
Keep us posted on your choices and walk as it will encourage and challenge us to also embrace our hopes and fears. I will do the same once I've made a decision.
Buon Camino.

I am mulling over options for a Camino at the end of 2020 and into early 2021, not sure if I want to do a Salvador/ Primitivo at this time but I have seen quite a few videos of people walking it in December and January, one of them walked the Hospitales route in deep snow, which I don't recommend, it was a brilliantly sunny day, so he was probably advised it wasn't going to snow again that day, a couple of days later he had to be bussed from Fonsgrada to Lugo because of snow blizzards. I walked the Primitivo in July 2014 and loved it, I would like to go back again, so the same applies to you, keep us posted on your choices and experiences if you do walk at that time of year.

Buen Camino

 

[brian560]

Hi. I plan to start the Salvador from Leon to Oviedo next week and then onto the Primitivo. I would appreciate any advice on the weather and state of the track. I have Enders trip guide and am geared up for dry days and tracks

 

[PaulBurger]

I have just returned from the Salvador and 8 days of the Primitivo. We were blessed with clear and cold weather.The Salvador has one over grown section where you have to skirt around fallen trees but otherwise the patch are good. some on the edge - not sure what it would be like when it is raining.On the Salvador, try and stay with Sandra an Benduenos (lovely) and the albergue de peregrinos in Pajares is also great.
A new albergue had just opened in Borres on the Primitivo when we passed through. Peoplel who stayed there said it was good. We walked across hospitales all the way to Albergue Miguelin in La Mesa - what a great place!

 

[brian560]

Thanks for that. I just read another thread where numbers were up and it was advisable to book ahead. It looks like it will be a bed race.

 

[Hansel]

Thanks for that. I just read another thread where numbers were up and it was advisable to book ahead. It looks like it will be a bed race.

I walked the primitive between the 11th April, and got to Santiago on the 22nd April, didn't book any nights on the primitive, some days in the beginning didn't see another pilgrim on the way, only at night, at Castro shared the Albergue with one other pilgrim, we had a dorm each. And then onto to Fisterra by Muxia, again no booking, even coming back from Fisterra by bus to Santiago no booking.
Buen camino,
Bill

 

[DonCamino]

Hi @All,

walking the first Day (Oviedo to Grado) i count a large number of pilgrims. The Albergue in Grado was almost full before opening (16 places). More pilgrims are around.... Everybody was in a little first-day-hurry in Oviedo. Common start was around 6:20-6:30.

Today 30 degrees Celsius, tomorrow 31. Early birds win a more relaxed walk

So long
DonCamino

 

[Hansel]

Hi @All,

walking the first Day (Oviedo to Grado) i count a large number of pilgrims. The Albergue in Grado was almost full before opening (16 places). More pilgrims are around.... Everybody was in a little first-day-hurry in Oviedo. Common start was around 6:20-6:30.

Today 30 degrees Celsius, tomorrow 31. Early birds win a more relaxed walk

So long
DonCamino

Enjoy what a difference a few weeks makes, only saw two pilgrims on the way , on my first half day, and rain leaving Oviedo,
Buen camino,

 

[DonCamino]

Hi,

not tooo many pilgrims here. Becausof of enough beds. Here in Salas we have the Municipal and some private albergues. Tomorrow in Tineo there are more than 55 beds. So everything seems to be ok! Was my first panic after ending my Salvador and entering the Primitivo.

Very hot today. Will end on monday, we will get a little (?) rain next week.

So long
DonCamino

 

[Rich Stroot]

Hey fellow pilgrims!

This will be my third camino and just found this forum now-I've been missing out!

I'm privileged to have 16 days in the middle of May to walk a camino, and the Primitivo is calling. (I've previously done the Portuguese and Frances one).

I am concerned though that the Primitivo will be very empty? What lingers with me from the other camino, except the wonderful food and nature and the spectacular way I find peace on the roads, is also the amazing conversations had with fellow pilgrims over a glass of red at the end of the day.

So, all you primitivo lovers- if meeting others is important to me, is the Primitivo my way?

Thank you in advance and wish you well on coming walks of the soul

How did you do? I am leaving Sunday, Oct 6th to walk, should be quiet!

 

[LesBrass]

How did you do? I am leaving Sunday, Oct 6th to walk, should be quiet!

We're partway through and it's fairly quiet. No bed race but enough pilgrims to make friends... Hope you have a, great walk.

 

[Tazz]

I walked the SanSalvador and Primitivo together in May 2017.
I posted this a while ago, but it may help.

I walked the Camino Frances in May 2016 with my daughter and then did my first solo Camino on the Salvador (Leon to Oviedo) then Primitivo (Oviedo - SDC) in May 2017. It was probably one of the best experiences of my life. It was a very simple train ride from Madrid to Leon where I spent my first night and got rid of some of my jet lag.
The Salvador was exceptionally beautiful, beyond words actually. Others are correct in that it is very quiet with respect to seeing other pilgrims. I saw 5 in total during the 4 days I walked, however, I didn't feel lonely nor unsafe. I stayed in only one Albergue (in Pajares) because during that time of year you can be the only pilgrim in the Albergue. I preferred a cheaper 3 star hotel and there are several along the way. My recommendation would be to do the hike in 5 or 6 days rather than 4. Once in Oviedo, I began the Primitivo which was a quiet hilly version of the Frances. I would estimate around 30 people per day were starting the Primitivo and around 1/3 of them had been on the Norte and decided to visit Oviedo and join the Primitivo. There were ample places to stay if you don't mind mixing private and municipal accommodations. The only place I heard of people finding it hard to find an albergue was Grado (first night). Some had to move on the next town (5km) later. I would suggest doing the Camino Primitivo in 12 days (I did it in 10 and that was too fast).
Don't fret about the hills or being in the clouds. The people I met were all of average physical ability and aged in range from 20 to 70. They managed the hills quite fine. Regarding being in the clouds, there is only one place that occurs which is if you take the Hospitales option. I took the valley option to Pola De Allande as there is no accommodation along the Hospitales route and it would have required doing a very short day prior to going that way. The valley option was very beautiful and you still have to cross the mountain eventually. The walk up the mountain through the forest is very peaceful and beautiful.

When you reach Melide you do also join the masses of people and that can be a bit overwhelming but it is only for 2 days.
One benefit of doing the Camino San Salvador and Primitivo is that you get to experience 3 amazing small cities along the way (Leon, Oviedo and Lugo). Lugo is an ancient city with an intact 2.2 km long walkable wall surrounding the very active and pretty old town.
You should consider downloading the free guide from the CSJ to get more information about the Salvador and I also used the wise pilgrim app numerous times.

I am definitely going to do these 2 Caminos again, however, hopefully my wife can join me next time to share the beauty and meet as many nice people as I did along the way.

 

[Citronit]

How did you do? I am leaving Sunday, Oct 6th to walk, should be quiet!

Rich! Good luck on your journey. It was without a doubt the most beautiful camino I have done.

The biggest difference for me was that a lot of people were there because of the solitude, the introspection if you will- and not chasing company and creating a camino 'family'. At first it felt a bit lonely, to be fair. Not that I was the only one on the trail, there was plenty, and sometimes I didn't get the first bed I wanted either.

But just for that reason that the primitivo seemed to attract an other type of person. Did any of you others to find it to be this way?

Once I got into the rhythm of it, having days where I didn't speak to anyone, I loved it. I learned a lot about myself.

But you can't escape connection with wonderful people on the camino, even how much solitude there is. I made great friendships, and the combination of solitude and genuine connection was all I needed for this go around.

And can we talk about the day walking through the burnt down forest? Amazing

 

[Hansel]

I walked the SanSalvador and Primitivo together in May 2017.
I posted this a while ago, but it may help.

I walked the Camino Frances in May 2016 with my daughter and then did my first solo Camino on the Salvador (Leon to Oviedo) then Primitivo (Oviedo - SDC) in May 2017. It was probably one of the best experiences of my life. It was a very simple train ride from Madrid to Leon where I spent my first night and got rid of some of my jet lag.
The Salvador was exceptionally beautiful, beyond words actually. Others are correct in that it is very quiet with respect to seeing other pilgrims. I saw 5 in total during the 4 days I walked, however, I didn't feel lonely nor unsafe. I stayed in only one Albergue (in Pajares) because during that time of year you can be the only pilgrim in the Albergue. I preferred a cheaper 3 star hotel and there are several along the way. My recommendation would be to do the hike in 5 or 6 days rather than 4. Once in Oviedo, I began the Primitivo which was a quiet hilly version of the Frances. I would estimate around 30 people per day were starting the Primitivo and around 1/3 of them had been on the Norte and decided to visit Oviedo and join the Primitivo. There were ample places to stay if you don't mind mixing private and municipal accommodations. The only place I heard of people finding it hard to find an albergue was Grado (first night). Some had to move on the next town (5km) later. I would suggest doing the Camino Primitivo in 12 days (I did it in 10 and that was too fast).
Don't fret about the hills or being in the clouds. The people I met were all of average physical ability and aged in range from 20 to 70. They managed the hills quite fine. Regarding being in the clouds, there is only one place that occurs which is if you take the Hospitales option. I took the valley option to Pola De Allande as there is no accommodation along the Hospitales route and it would have required doing a very short day prior to going that way. The valley option was very beautiful and you still have to cross the mountain eventually. The walk up the mountain through the forest is very peaceful and beautiful.

When you reach Melide you do also join the masses of people and that can be a bit overwhelming but it is only for 2 days.
One benefit of doing the Camino San Salvador and Primitivo is that you get to experience 3 amazing small cities along the way (Leon, Oviedo and Lugo). Lugo is an ancient city with an intact 2.2 km long walkable wall surrounding the very active and pretty old town.
You should consider downloading the free guide from the CSJ to get more information about the Salvador and I also used the wise pilgrim app numerous times.

I am definitely going to do these 2 Caminos again, however, hopefully my wife can join me next time to share the beauty and meet as many nice people as I did along the way.

Hi Tazz , was the Salvador as well marked as the Primitivo, ? I walked the Primitivo in the spring and then onto Muxia and Fisterre, five days rain , and hailstones !
Thanks Bill

 

[MikeJS]

The markings on the Salvador are good enough as long as you pay attention. However, the Primitivo is extremely well marked. In fact the hospitalis section on the Primitivo could only have been marked better if it was a continuous yellow line!

 

[Hansel]

The markings on the Salvador are good enough as long as you pay attention. However, the Primitivo is extremely well marked. In fact the hospitalis section on the Primitivo could only have been marked better if it was a continuous yellow line!

Thanks Mike the Salvador is on my to do list, came across mention of a camino Real from Leon to Oviedo, not sure how well marked it is,
Bill

 

[Tazz]

I found the Salvador to be very well marked.
I never went of the trail, which I did do by accident on the Primitivo as there seemed to be a lot of other
non-camino arrows which got me mixed up a few times. Similar on the Portugues south of Porto, it wasn't well marked.
I often use the GPS mode on the Wise Camino app and it doesn't use data. It tends to get you right back
on track.

Jamie

 

[MikeJS]

I found the Salvador to be very well marked.
I never went of the trail, which I did do by accident on the Primitivo as there seemed to be a lot of other
non-camino arrows which got me mixed up a few times. Similar on the Portugues south of Porto, it wasn't well marked.
I often use the GPS mode on the Wise Camino app and it doesn't use data. It tends to get you right back
on track.

Jamie

Don’t use the Wise Pilgrim app for the San Salvador as it has the wrong track and would be dangerious to follow.

 

[Tazz]

Thanks,
good point
I actually used Enders guide on the Salvador and the Wise Camino app from time to time on the Primitivo but only when I feared I was off the trail.

Jamie