Pre-Camino Walk Options to SJPDP: GR 78 from Lourdes or GR 65 from Aire-sur-l'Adour?

[ThomCatStevens]

Hi all, I am thinking of starting my first Camino Frances (June10 to July 8) by starting 5-7 days prior to SJPDP in France. I want to finish well before Sarria.

I’m considering this option so that I don’t start with the hard Pyrenees crossing / half crossing on day 1. Happy to hear others’ opinions on these 2 option plus other options for 5-7 days before SJPDP to compare accommodation availability elevation, beauty, solitude, weather etc.
Thanks in advance!

 

[Former member 104756]

HI @ThomCatStevens

We were on the Chemin du Piemont (GR 78) in April 2022 and the Le Puy Way (GR 65) way back ... In short ....
Accommodation availability - many more options, at more frequent intervals, on the Le Puy
Elevation - for the sections you propose, greater elevation on the Piemont. There are a couple of significant climbs in the last few days to SJPP
Beauty - hmmm, I found the Le Puy Way overall much more scenic than the Piemont - but, 'in the eye of the beholder' and all that. That said, the last few days on the Piemont - after Oloron St Marie - are beautiful. On either route, when you reach Pays Basque ... it's glorious.
Solitude - the Piemont has far fewer people than the Le Puy - which is good or not so good depending on your preference. Either way, by the time you arrive in SJPP, there will be no shortage of companions.
Weather - well, who knows. But once you are in that last week, those two paths are not far from each other so I'd imagine the weather would be pretty similar.

These are just my impressions For a more fact based comparison of elevations and accommodation options of the Le Puy Way vs Piemont, I'd recommend taking a look at the Gronze website.

El Camino de Santiago | Gronze.com

Bienvenido a Gronze, tu Guía del Camino de Santiago: Información práctica, actualizada y participativa de los principales Caminos de Santiago.

www.gronze.com

Both are good options.

 

[ThomCatStevens]

Thank you so much for all that great detail, Pelerina!

 

[Kanga]

I really enjoyed the section between Aire and SJPDP. I enjoyed all of the Le Puy, but I do particularly remember some fabulous meals provided in the gites in the section after Aire. Too many years ago to be useful though.

 

[ThomCatStevens]

HI @ThomCatStevens

We were on the Chemin du Piemont (GR 78) in April 2022 and the Le Puy Way (GR 65) way back ... In short ....
Accommodation availability - many more options, at more frequent intervals, on the Le Puy
Elevation - for the sections you propose, greater elevation on the Piemont. There are a couple of significant climbs in the last few days to SJPP
Beauty - hmmm, I found the Le Puy Way overall much more scenic than the Piemont - but, 'in the eye of the beholder' and all that. That said, the last few days on the Piemont - after Oloron St Marie - are beautiful. On either route, when you reach Pays Basque ... it's glorious.
Solitude - the Piemont has far fewer people than the Le Puy - which is good or not so good depending on your preference. Either way, by the time you arrive in SJPP, there will be no shortage of companions.
Weather - well, who knows. But once you are in that last week, those two paths are not far from each other so I'd imagine the weather would be pretty similar.

These are just my impressions For a more fact based comparison of elevations and accommodation options of the Le Puy Way vs Piemont, I'd recommend taking a look at the Gronze website.

El Camino de Santiago | Gronze.com

Bienvenido a Gronze, tu Guía del Camino de Santiago: Información práctica, actualizada y participativa de los principales Caminos de Santiago.

www.gronze.com

Both are good options.

Thanks again for this. With your experience with Le Puy Way and if you were going to walk 5-7 days before St JPDP, where would you start from? I fly into Paris from Australia (24hr plus flight) and land at 7am and plan to catch the fast train and stay the rest of the day and night before walking. Any suggestions? Any advice is really appreciated.

 

[Former member 104756]

Thanks again for this. With your experience with Le Puy Way and if you were going to walk 5-7 days before St JPDP, where would you start from? I fly into Paris from Australia (24hr plus flight) and land at 7am and plan to catch the fast train and stay the rest of the day and night before walking. Any suggestions? Any advice is really appreciated.

Hhhmm, if you want to walk 5-7 days on the Le Puy before SJPP, the tricky part would be to get to one of those small towns on The Way. My initial thoughts ... others may chime in with better ideas.

I have taken the train directly from Paris (CDG) to Bayonne many times without difficulty. Perhaps a good night's rest there after the long journey - it's a lovely town to walk around and stretch the legs. Then I think the most straightforward 'connection' from Bayonne to a Le Puy town could be a bus / taxi from Bayonne to Arthez de Bearn. Rome to Rio indicates there is a bus to Orthez and then a taxi? From AdeB, would give you 4-5 days to SJPP. It's a picturesque section. And with the numbers on the Le Puy, I'd imagine you would get some nice companionship during those days, some of whom may be continuing on after SJPP.

Others may suggest an alternative of the Camino Baztan from Bayonne to Pamplona (5-6 days) and then you could take the bus back from Pamplona back to SJPP if you want to start the Frances from there. Certainly an option. But, just my opinion, the Baztan may be a bit lonely for a first time camino.

 

[Former member 104756]

PS. You might want to play around with transport options in addition to above bus / taxi to Arthez de B. Another possibility is to take a train from Bayonne to Pau, and then a bus from Pau to Aire sur l’Adour. But seems likely to take more time.

The research is all part of the adventure. Non? Bonne chance

 

[JabbaPapa]

I am always a bit miffed when the Ways of Saint James through France are described as GR this or that, though the Le Puy route to be fair is an "old" GR that is more sensibly laid down and closer to what would have been a traditional route, despite its own modern artifacts.

For instance, it nonsensically avoids Saint-Palais, even though in pre-GR days pretty much all Le Puy route pilgrims would have journeyed through there.

This has knock-on effects on 21st Century pilgrims, because very often, when a GR route avoids a historic village or town, lodging and other services to pilgrims, including the religious ones, are directly or indirectly diminished. The "Franciscan" Albergue in Saint-Palais is closed in Winter for instance, because the GR65 pointlessly avoids the town, or just for silly French Hiking Federation rules.

It's worse on the Piémont Way, where the GR makes some pretty insane detours away from various very quiet little tarmac country lanes which are the natural route between Oloron especially and SJPP.

In either case, I would say use the GR waymarkers as a rough guide, but do not hesitate to take an easier road if you can see one, and generally avoid lengthy GR-made detours over crests and summits wherever they are avoidable along an easier way - - though of course, when there's a choice between a lengthier trail and a main road with heavy traffic, the latter may not be copacetic.

YMMV

But if you're careful with all of that, starting from Lourdes is great.

One possible option BTW is Lourdes > Oloron-Sainte-Marie, then from there switch to the Le Puy route at Navarrenx by walking down the valley. Doing so would avoid most of the above problems.

 

[Former member 104756]

For sure - IF the OP wishes to start on the Piemont, an easy option is to take the train from Bayonne to Lourdes or Oloron Sainte Marie and either continue on the Piemont or make his way to Navarrenx to connect with Le Puy.

 

[JabbaPapa]

Train to Lourdes is easy, multiple options.

 

[jbrehove]

Great thread. Wife and I will be walking from Lourdes to SJPdP in late Aug then on to Santiago. I found this guide book from Lourdes to SJPdP. Its in French, so I have some google translating to do. https://www.bookdepository.com/Chem...term=Book_image&utm_content=order-details&utm

 

[MikeJS]

Nothing especially hard about the first day on the Frances.

 

[NorthernLight]

Just to add more to consider, you could just start walking to SJPDP from Bayonne on the Chemin Nive, following the river up the valley. It might not be as many km as you want, but it would be the simple solution to avoiding all that ground transportation hassle.

 

[Anthony Rocco]

Hi all, I am thinking of starting my first Camino Frances (June10 to July 8) by starting 5-7 days prior to SJPDP in France. I want to finish well before Sarria.

I’m considering this option so that I don’t start with the hard Pyrenees crossing / half crossing on day 1. Happy to hear others’ opinions on these 2 option plus other options for 5-7 days before SJPDP to compare accommodation availability elevation, beauty, solitude, weather etc.
Thanks in advance!

We started a very long camino in Lourdes. From Lourdes, we walked to Oleron Ste Marie. Gorgeous. Lovely walk. Very few pilgrims. Very few accommodations, but the locals embraced us. If you are faint of heart and need everything arranged, don't do this. If you are intrepid and wiling to live with uncertainty every day, go for it. But...from there, we took the route over the Pyrenees crossing at Somport. This is a multi-day hike up, much more gradual that the steep ascent and descent from SJPDP to Roncevalles. And very different, more like walking in Colorado amidst canyon cascades with high, snow capped peaks above you. After crossing, we walked the Camino Aragones till it ends joining the Frances. I would highly recommend this route to those who have already walked the Frances starting in SJPDP. So much beauty, so much culture, so much history, so many interesting cities and towns. And, if this matters, it's not a conga line of pilgrims. We bonded with a German dad and daughter, two gay professors, one from Denmark, the other from the UK and a fun-loving newly married Italian couple. It was an amazing mix that only a camino can bring together in friendship and devotion.

 

[edtrudeau]

 

[David Hobson]

I walked from AslD a couple of years ago. I took 7 days. A few of the days are quite long between villages, 29km the first day! Enjoyed it though.

 

[Former member 104756]

Just to add more to consider, you could just start walking to SJPDP from Bayonne on the Chemin Nive, following the river up the valley. It might not be as many km as you want, but it would be the simple solution to avoiding all that ground transportation hassle.

Of course, I’d forgotten Voie de Nive

@ThomCatStevens you can search on the forum for the threads on Voie de Nive.

Also I’ll send you a PM. Youre welcome to be in touch if you’d like to talk through your options - in your time zone

 

[Tandem Graham]

In 2018 I walked the Voie du Puy from Le Put to SJPdP. In 2019, I planned to walk the Camino Frances but, like you, I wanted to warm up my legs and get comfortable in my hiking kit before crossing the Pyrenees.
Rather than repeating part of my earlier Camino, flew to Bordeaux and took a train to Dax. Dax has a small unstaffed pilgrim halt with a kitchen and half a dozen beds (email ahead to arrange entry). I spent three wonderful days walking the 85km from there to SJPdP. Thoroughly recommend this undulating walk including a night in Sorde l'Abbaye, with its impressive history.
Easier to reach and not as far as Aire l'Adour. Definitely easier hiking and navigation than from Lourdes.

 

[backpack45]

Hi all, I am thinking of starting my first Camino Frances (June10 to July 8) by starting 5-7 days prior to SJPDP in France. I want to finish well before Sarria.

I’m considering this option so that I don’t start with the hard Pyrenees crossing / half crossing on day 1. Happy to hear others’ opinions on these 2 option plus other options for 5-7 days before SJPDP to compare accommodation availability elevation, beauty, solitude, weather etc.
Thanks in advance!

I think the most beautiful part of the LePuy is the early stages because of the lovely old market towns --as you approach St. Jean, it seems to be more large scale operations/agriculture. It's been a while since I did either one of them, but I remember that getting off the trail on the LePuy route to go down into villages to stay was often rocky and the hardest part. That said, I don't think that any of the routes you have mentioned are particularly difficult (compared to a backpacking trip), just a long and steady ascent/descent from St. Jean to Ronsavalles. And the stop at Orisson is a perfect way to be introduced to Camino life!

 

[AlwynWellington]

Happy to hear others’ opinions on these 2 option plus other options for 5-7 days before SJPDP to compare accommodation availability elevation, beauty, solitude, weather etc.

Regrettably, I only have a Cyclopic view of this part of the world, having only walked the GR65 from Le Puy.

Firstly, though, I do applaud your intention to get everything working (and/or shaken down) before starting out from Saint-Jean.

The route from Moissac to Saint-Jean (the second half of the GR65) has much less infrastructure of all sorts than before or after. In particular, gite d'etape (hostels). So, some of the stage distances could be challenging for a work-up phase. But they are what they are.

My suggestions are

Begin - Euaze: a lovely town, great gite d'etape (La Grange) and gite owner (Marie France)
20 km - Nogaro via Manciet
25 km - Air-sur-l'Adour
30 km - Arzacq-Arraziguet,
25 km - Arthez-de-Béarn
28 km - Navarrenx
26 km - Saint Palais (wish I had side-stepped to here)
30 km - Saint-Jean

I have looked at the website for La Grange at Eauze - it is alive. If a hosted dinner is available, do take it: you will be well rewarded with a bon-vivant hostess: I have no French, but the occasional miming filled the gap.

kia kaha (take care, be strong)

 

[AlwynWellington]

don’t start with the hard Pyrenees crossing / half crossing on day 1

Each to their own.

I started from Saint-Jean after nearly four weeks from Le-Puy (700 km) and 480 km on 17 local day trips in the three months before leaving. I was as "match fit" as they say.

When I started from Saint-Jean at about 07h30 I got the impression quite a few had started earlier.

Even though chilly, I was dressed for the rest of the day: hat, buff (both mainly for sun protection), short-sleeve merino top, polyester-wool kilt, double long hose, running shoes.

My philosophy: only open the pack for a real emergency: it might be chilly to start but both me and the air temperature will rise.

I begin to encounter some of the earlier starters: they were stopping to take of a thick outer garment and opening their pack to stow it and/or find a replacement.

I also noticed many of those ahead were taking long strides, as though on a level road: in my observation they were lifting their leg (not a light piece of equipment) and slowing down.

My other observation was, even though my steps were quite short (usually less than a shoe length) only one person passed me, and that was on the longish top flatter stretch.

Of those who stayed at Roncesvalles, I was in the first half-dozen arrivals to register for a bed.

I hope your multi-day work up before Saint-Jean (whichever route you take) gives you the outcome you seek.

Kia kaha, kia māia, kia mana'wa'nui (take care, be strong, confident and patient)

 

[ThomCatStevens]

In 2018 I walked the Voie du Puy from Le Put to SJPdP. In 2019, I planned to walk the Camino Frances but, like you, I wanted to warm up my legs and get comfortable in my hiking kit before crossing the Pyrenees.
Rather than repeating part of my earlier Camino, flew to Bordeaux and took a train to Dax. Dax has a small unstaffed pilgrim halt with a kitchen and half a dozen beds (email ahead to arrange entry). I spent three wonderful days walking the 85km from there to SJPdP. Thoroughly recommend this undulating walk including a night in Sorde l'Abbaye, with its impressive history.
Easier to reach and not as far as Aire l'Adour. Definitely easier hiking and navigation than from Lourdes.

Thanks for that, Tandem Graham- I'll look into your trip (via Dax).

 

[ThomCatStevens]

Regrettably, I only have a Cyclopic view of this part of the world, having only walked the GR65 from Le Puy.

Firstly, though, I do applaud your intention to get everything working (and/or shaken down) before starting out from Saint-Jean.

The route from Moissac to Saint-Jean (the second half of the GR65) has much less infrastructure of all sorts than before or after. In particular, gite d'etape (hostels). So, some of the stage distances could be challenging for a work-up phase. But they are what they are.

My suggestions are

Begin - Euaze: a lovely town, great gite d'etape (La Grange) and gite owner (Marie France)
20 km - Nogaro via Manciet
25 km - Air-sur-l'Adour
30 km - Arzacq-Arraziguet,
25 km - Arthez-de-Béarn
28 km - Navarrenx
26 km - Saint Palais (wish I had side-stepped to here)
30 km - Saint-Jean

I have looked at the website for La Grange at Eauze - it is alive. If a hosted dinner is available, do take it: you will be well rewarded with a bon-vivant hostess: I have no French, but the occasional miming filled the gap.

kia kaha (take care, be strong)

Thanks for the detailed suggestions-= I'll be sure to check these out. Thanks again.

 

[Paulene]

Great thread. Wife and I will be walking from Lourdes to SJPdP in late Aug then on to Santiago. I found this guide book from Lourdes to SJPdP. Its in French, so I have some google translating to do. https://www.bookdepository.com/Chem...term=Book_image&utm_content=order-details&utm

What is the name of the book? Book Depository is not longer operating.

 

[OzAnnie]

What is the name of the book? Book Depository is not longer operating.

Thanks for pointing out that ‘book depository’ has closed. They were so useful .. I used to be able to get books shipped from uk to usa for a great price.

 

[Paulene]

In 2018 I walked the Voie du Puy from Le Put to SJPdP. In 2019, I planned to walk the Camino Frances but, like you, I wanted to warm up my legs and get comfortable in my hiking kit before crossing the Pyrenees.
Rather than repeating part of my earlier Camino, flew to Bordeaux and took a train to Dax. Dax has a small unstaffed pilgrim halt with a kitchen and half a dozen beds (email ahead to arrange entry). I spent three wonderful days walking the 85km from there to SJPdP. Thoroughly recommend this undulating walk including a night in Sorde l'Abbaye, with its impressive history.
Easier to reach and not as far as Aire l'Adour. Definitely easier hiking and navigation than from Lourdes.

Can you tell me what route you took from Dax to SJPDP?

 

[JabbaPapa]

One possible option BTW is Lourdes > Oloron-Sainte-Marie, then from there switch to the Le Puy route at Navarrenx by walking down the valley. Doing so would avoid most of the above problems.

The more I reflect on my last Camino, which ended SJPP to Lourdes, the more I think that Lourdes > Oloron-Sainte-Marie > Navarrenx > Saint-Palais > SJPP really is the best possible route from Lourdes -- it's a little bit longer, but it combines the best parts of the local Piémont, Le Puy, and even a short few hundred metres or so of the Vézelay routes into something less hikery but more pilgrimy.

Oloron, Navarrenx, and Saint-Palais are all lovely places !!

The little country roads between Oloron and Navarrenx have little traffic, and are pleasant and easy to walk ; and though to Saint-Palais by the easiest and IMO sensible route does take a local main road between Aroue and there, the traffic isn't too bad on that, and it's not hard nor unpleasant (unlike some portions of the tarmac option towards Larceveau and Utxiate on the way into SJPP) ; and there is one good section of protected bike pilgrim pathway in the middle and worst of the tarmac way to Saint-Palais from Aroue ; I wish they would extend it further !!

As to the Piémont ; at the time, I did L'Hôpital-Saint-Blaise > Mauléon-Licharre > Ordiarp on tarmac ; then from Ordiarp to SJPP on trail. There's a bit of a climb and descent to do between Ordiarp and towards Saint-Jean-le-Vieux, but all in all, it's good prep for the Napoleon route ; as would be the "easier" but longer variant via Saint-Palais, as it also has its ups and downs, just not as stark.

For completionism' sake ; if weather were good, and sleeping outside a possibility, then the most "sensible" route of all would, from Navarrenx, continue down the valley on the right (eastern) bank on a little country road through villages to Sauveterre-de-Béarn, then on the Vézelay Way from there through Saint-Palais to SJPP.

And I guess you could just do the same down the Gave de Pau, Lourdes > Pau, Pau >Orthez ; Vézelay Way from Orthez to SJPP. This one has the virtue of simplicity.

 

[Tandem Graham]

Can you tell me what route you took from Dax to SJPDP?

Dax to Sorde l'Abbaye. Sorde l'Abbaye to Saint Palais. Saint Palais via Oloron to SJPdP. It is more or less the final part of the Voie de Tours, one of the Camino tributaries which links with the Voie du Puy and the Voie de Vezelay at the Stelle Xibraltar just after Saint Palais.
There is a volunteer run Gite d'Etape a few hundred metres from Dax railway station - it's best to book it beforehand by email. There's a lovely albergue style Gite d'Etape in Sorde and a large and well used one in Saint Palais too, usually staffed by volunteers from the Netherlands.
I suppose Xibraltar is the actual start of the Camino Frances, though it's a lot more isolated than SJPdP.

 

[jbrehove]

What is the name of the book? Book Depository is not longer operating.

 

[jbrehove]

That’s the book. Bummer that book depository closed

 

[Paulene]

View attachment 148855

Thank you

 

[Paulene]

Dax to Sorde l'Abbaye. Sorde l'Abbaye to Saint Palais. Saint Palais via Oloron to SJPdP. It is more or less the final part of the Voie de Tours, one of the Camino tributaries which links with the Voie du Puy and the Voie de Vezelay at the Stelle Xibraltar just after Saint Palais.
There is a volunteer run Gite d'Etape a few hundred metres from Dax railway station - it's best to book it beforehand by email. There's a lovely albergue style Gite d'Etape in Sorde and a large and well used one in Saint Palais too, usually staffed by volunteers from the Netherlands.
I suppose Xibraltar is the actual start of the Camino Frances, though it's a lot more isolated than SJPdP.

Thanks so much - great info, much appreciated.