Penasillas to Rodeiro
The camino continues down a short lane from the Cantina O Peto. At the end of the lane, the gravel path almost immediately begins to ascend. From a house on the left at the start of the path, a woman leaned out of her upper window, waving and wishing me a good journey, pointing me in the right direction… straight up
It was a cool morning, dark clouds looming, with rain starting as I began the 5 km ascent on a gravel dirt path. I have to say that this was a tough day. The rain was intermittent with drizzle, then heavy downpour for several minutes and then drizzle again, throughout the climb.
There was one stretch of a km or so, leading up to a crossroads when the rain stopped for a bit and the road eased into more of a gentle up and down. There is a stone monolith here. Researching later, I learned it was a memorial to the poet Uxio Novoneyra, engraved with a poem by Pablo Rubén Eyre. I was surprised because they are both 20th century (Rubén Eyre also 21st century) poets. The monolith looked so much older!
The climb continues from here on a quiet tarmac road. It was raining heavily again by the time I arrived at the stone steps on the left, leading up through a grassy area flanked by the Stations of the Cross. My shoes became completely soaked on this part of the climb up through the grass.
Despite the rain and fog, there was something eerily beautiful about this stretch between the stone steps and the Ermita. Very silent, other than the rain in the trees and some bird song until almost at the top when I started to hear hammering and power tools. The Ermita de Nosa Señora do Faro was getting a new roof!
Still very foggy at the top with no views to be seen. The ermita of course was not open but I spent some time exploring the site and the high point of Galicia, topped with lookout tower and weather station. With the cloud and fog still thick, it wasn’t possible to see the view of all four Galician provinces, but the fog had drifted giving a view of the ermita and it's surroundings.
As I started the descent, it was still raining, though it had eased somewhat and I could see clearing in the clouds ahead. The next part of the walk (slog!) along the tarmac road and the almost 6 km of constant drone and hum from the ridge of windmills was the toughest part of the day. Perhaps because of the humidity and the on & off rain. Black flies were thick, swarming at times around my head and hands.
Midway down, the fog did begin to lift, revealing beautiful vistas.
It was a relief to finally reach the highway and continue on softer paths through farmland and hamlets.
I stopped in A Feira at the Bar O Recanto, a couple of km’s before Rodeiro for a rest and a longed for café con leche. A wild little place that was! Seemed like all the men in town were coming in after their work day for a drink, chat, game of cards. It became obvious pretty quickly that I was sitting at a regular card game table. I moved with my coffee to the bar and my table was immediately full.
Fueled for the final stretch, I made my way into Rodeiro and quickly found my lodging for the night - the Hostal Carpinteiras. When I had left the bar in A Feira, a large group of cyclists passed me. I had booked to stay in the albergue at the hostal but it was almost completely taken up by the cyclists and their support team. They were a lively bunch so I decided, for the quiet, to take a single room with bathroom instead. (22 euro)
The menú del dia dinner at the hostal was excellent, starting with the best caldo galego I’ve had. At dinner I had a great talk with some of the cyclists who were from a women's cycling club in Madrid. There were 22 cyclists ranging in age from 20 to 65. They had started in Ponferrada. A good end to this day!