LIVE from the Camino Pilgr on the Levante

[KinkyOne]

Hey @gracethepilgrim ,

I understand you plan to start the Levante in 6 weeks?! That is way exciting! I hope my posts do help. In keeping with today's post theme 'overheating', I was thinking you will be starting the Levante almost in June. I would be remiss if I did not reiterate of how the Levante is the most weather intense of all the Caminos I have done. Even starting March 1, I have gotten a fair amount of VERY hot weather. That means intense heat baking effect. To be honest, I can't imagine starting in June. I can't imagine how Kinky managed. I am sure if you ask @KinkyOne he will give you some healthy insight what you are in store for. Perhaps he can offer some good strategies too. PLEASE be careful

It was brutal, Matt
I barely dragged myself to Albacete and stayed there another day to cool down. Again I was on the brink of heat-stroke approaching Mora. Resting whole afternoon in air-conditioned room in a pension. Coming to Toledo I had to sit down for two hours in albergue Los Pascuales and drink Coke to get myself together somehow After two or three weeks of 40-48C even my mobile phone and camera went on strike and I had to detour to Madrid to fix that and decided to skip Toledo - Avila stretch. Partly because that's exactly the gap between Camino Manchego (Ciudad Real - Toledo) and Camino Teresiano (Avila - Salamanca) which are on my bucket list. After Avila the temps lowered and I got to SdC easily.

 

[gracethepilgrim]

Hey @gracethepilgrim ,

I understand you plan to start the Levante in 6 weeks?! That is way exciting! I hope my posts do help. In keeping with today's post theme 'overheating', I was thinking you will be starting the Levante almost in June. I would be remiss if I did not reiterate of how the Levante is the most weather intense of all the Caminos I have done. Even starting March 1, I have gotten a fair amount of VERY hot weather. That means intense heat baking effect. To be honest, I can't imagine starting in June. I can't imagine how Kinky managed. I am sure if you ask @KinkyOne he will give you some healthy insight what you are in store for. Perhaps he can offer some good strategies too. PLEASE be careful

Oh yes Matt I know it’ll be HOT.
I have bought a ‘sun reflecting’ umbrella so maybe this will help. Also, my backup plan is to hop over to the VdlP if I get too uncomfortable.
I’ve done enough caminos to understand my physical limits. Actually I’m more worried about being alone for such a long period of time.

 

[gracethepilgrim]

It was brutal, Matt
I barely dragged myself to Albacete and stayed there another day to cool down. Again I was on the brink of heat-stroke approaching Mora. Resting whole afternoon in air-conditioned room in a pension. Coming to Toledo I had to sit down for two hours in albergue Los Pascuales and drink Coke to get myself together somehow After two or three weeks of 40-48C even my mobile phone and camera went on strike ….

Oh Kinky !!! AT least I know the ‘worst’ it may get

 

[gracethepilgrim]

Matt - I’m sorry to hear of your shoe/sock woes. Do you have any ‘hikers wool’ or access to sheep?
I walk with a bag of raw sheeps wool (straight from the sheep) and use it when I start to feel a blister by teasing out some strands and wrapping them over the hotspot inside my sock.
A secondary use is to patch holes in my (wool) socks. I roll a ball of wool and place it inside the sock where the hole is. After a few hours it has ‘felted’ over the hole. Brilliant.

 

[pilgr]

Oh yes Matt I know it’ll be HOT.
I have bought a ‘sun reflecting’ umbrella so maybe this will help. Also, my backup plan is to hop over to the VdlP if I get too uncomfortable.
I’ve done enough caminos to understand my physical limits. Actually I’m more worried about being alone for such a long period of time.

If you are locked into the dates, I would avoid Vdlp too. Do the Camino Norte if u haven't already!

 

[andy.d]

I walked it starting at the beginning of September 2009. It wasn't as hot as that - usually mid to high 30's. It is important to carry a lot of water. And use the Guide to predict where it is possible to get water on the stages. Drink as much as you can before you start walking in the morning.

I think it was a quieter route then - no other pilgrims at all when I walked it. But very special

Andy

 

[DkPond]

Oh yes Matt I know it’ll be HOT.
I have bought a ‘sun reflecting’ umbrella so maybe this will help. Also, my backup plan is to hop over to the VdlP if I get too uncomfortable.
I’ve done enough caminos to understand my physical limits. Actually I’m more worried about being alone for such a long period of time.

I have such an umbrella and I can tell you it helps, but not all that much.

 

[pilgr]

I have such an umbrella and I can tell you it helps, but not all that much.

Hey there! How is your camino going? where are you?

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Do you know of any towns before Gotarendura to stock up at a store or restaurant? Thank you!

I have done that stretch twice and I have never found an open bar or store between Ávila and Gotarrendura, although the guides that I used mentioned a number of them... I wonder if anyone else has found them...

/BP

 

[DkPond]

Hey there! How is your camino going? where are you?

I am currently in Manaya and will stay in San Clemente tonight. Mostly happy and in good shape except for heavy-duty blistering slowing me down considerably.

Your reporting and comments are awesome. Keep it up!

James (Dkpond)

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

In Almondacid, at the famous Kiki bar. I went in to get some fried tators and eggs for breakfast. The owner said sure, in about 10 min. I said "sure, that sounds fine." Then the guy takes off in his car, leaving several patrons drinking beer and me alone for 10 min. He went to the grocery store! See pic with the 80€ Spa sign below.

Yeah that sounds like him (the owner). Considering he had to got o the grocery store he is not used to people ordering food there. When I asked him about dinner, he looked surprised! I thought it was a funny reaction... Until I started to think about what this meant in terms of quality on the food..................

/BP

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

The weight is definitely something the Amigos will have to take into consideration with next edition. Or maybe they go completely on-line with the guide.

The man who runs the albergue in Toledo, Los Pascuales (you know who it is, Kinky1) said to me that the Levante Guidebook would only be on-line in the future and that there would be no new printed edition of the Levante guide. "People only use on-line ressources"... the Asociación had told him. This was in 2014. But I don't know how things have turned out... I haven't checked up on Levante material since that year...

/BP

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

View attachment 32916

#1 Lesson of the day for Avila to G-town, rely in the arrows over kml files. My files must be outdated as it had me going down a dead end path right outside of Avila.

#2 Lesson of the day, don't rely on arrows necessarily...caveat to #1. The arrows had me going the wrong way through a massive landfill. When asked, the workers said I took the wrong turn. When I told them the arrows pointed this way, they said the arrows were wrong. After I asked them if they were the reason why the arrows are wrong, they got in their tractor to go fix it. I hope they did.

#3 Albergue in G-town. It looks wonderful from the outside. I excitedly stocked up on dinner material in Avila thinking of what I would cook in the kitchen. I called ahead and told the woman what time I would arrive. She pleasantly said "call me when you arrive." When I arrived, I called her 10 times with no answer. Finally, I went to the bar and the bartender claimed she was responsible for the albergue. She had me sign in and told me to knock really hard on the albergue door, someone would answer. No answer. Then right after I left, she closed the bar for the day 430pm! I returned for help and she was gone. No response by phone either. I ended up walking to the next town, which albergue is finely equipped with a hard View attachment 32914 View attachment 32915 floor to sleep on. So I hitched a ride to the next big town, A-town.

Summary: When asked by me what the biggest difference between Americans and Latinos are culturally, I was told by a Latina that Americans have higher standards. I am not sure how true this really is, but having standards means having expectations. And expectations definitely got me into trouble today!

Hi, I'm sorry about your problems with albergue and bar in Gotarrendura. I wonder if there was some kind of misunderstanding, or something unforeseen that prevented the bartender/woman from being around. I have stayed there twice, and everyone from the bar to the Ayuntamiento have always been extremely helpful, arranging opening of albergue, dinner at the bar, visiting the museums (!) in town... I know it doesn't change your impression, but I hope you don't think this is regular behaviour towards pilgrims in Gotarrendura... Well it can be good hearing different kinds of reports. I'm following your journey with great interest!

/BP

 

[KinkyOne]

Hi, I'm sorry about your problems with albergue and bar in Gotarrendura. I wonder if there was some kind of misunderstanding, or something unforeseen that prevented the bartender/woman from being around. I have stayed there twice, and everyone from the bar to the Ayuntamiento have always been extremely helpful, arranging opening of albergue, dinner at the bar, visiting the museums (!) in town... I know it doesn't change your impression, but I hope you don't think this is regular behaviour towards pilgrims in Gotarrendura... Well it can be good hearing different kinds of reports. I'm following your journey with great interest!

/BP

I have the same experience but also in a way similar to Matt's. I was knocking on a door pretty hard because I knew a Spanish pilgrim was already in there. After some time and no answer to my phone calls I went to the bar, drank a couple of beers and after bar staff told me to call again the lady answered. But she wasn't any way connected with the bar. Anyway, the Spanish pilgrim was sleeping when I was knocking and important to emphasize that "pilgrims" albergue is kind of at the back and therefore harder to hear the knocking.
The meal in the bar was the largest ever on my Caminos. Not the cheapest though. Even the Spaniard seemed stoned after eating it

 

[peregrina2000]

I have the same experience but also in a way similar to Matt's. I was knocking on a door pretty hard because I knew a Spanish pilgrim was already in there. After some time and no answer to my phone calls I went to the bar, drank a couple of beers and after bar staff told me to call again the lady answered. But she wasn't any way connected with the bar. Anyway, the Spanish pilgrim was sleeping when I was knocking and important to emphasize that "pilgrims" albergue is kind of at the back and therefore harder to hear the knocking.
The meal in the bar was the largest ever on my Caminos. Not the cheapest though. Even the Spaniard seemed stoned after eating it

Oh, the bar in Gotarrendura. Not only did they open up specially to make us a meal, but they also served us up a huge platter of setas (some kind of wild mustroom whose English name I do not know), laden with garlic and olive oil. They were so good it still makes my mouth water to think of them.

As Kinky says, the albergue part is very far from the door -- through the casa rural, across the little patio, and then you come to it, next to the washing machine. I can't imagine anyone sleeping in the albergue would ever hear anyone knocking on the door. My Camino dream wish is that albergues will change to number key locks and get rid of these keys. They cause endless headaches, are frequently lost, and also frequently result in leaving everything unlocked to avoid the hassles.

 

[KinkyOne]

I have done that stretch twice and I have never found an open bar or store between Ávila and Gotarrendura, although the guides that I used mentioned a number of them... I wonder if anyone else has found them...

/BP

In Narillos de San Leonardo should be tienda and bar according to my notes but I didn't search for them.
But I can confirm that in Cardenosa there are at least one tienda (more likely carniceria but those held lots of other stuff), and three bars. First one is soon after you hit the street in the village (with the pilgrims fountain) and then turn right. I think the bar is on the left side of that street. Looked more like some kind of centro social to me though. Soon after that you turn right into narrow street and come to main street through the village and on the right corner is a bar. Very pricey for rural Spain I thought, 1,40€ for 0,2l beer bottle (they don't have larger beer at all ). I've seen signs for another bar further up left on the main drag. So that would make 3 of them. And a CR!

 

[KinkyOne]

Oh, the bar in Gotarrendura. Not only did they open up specially to make us a meal, but they also served us up a huge platter of setas (some kind of wild mustroom whose English name I do not know), laden with garlic and olive oil. They were so good it still makes my mouth water to think of them.

Me and the Spaniard had quite usual meal for Spain but the amount of it was such that I still can't forget it. The bowl of ensalada mixta was so huge (for one person) that I can live the whole day here at home on that just one. In fact our family of four usually eat that amount of salad together with our meal

 

[pilgr]

I have the same experience but also in a way similar to Matt's. I was knocking on a door pretty hard because I knew a Spanish pilgrim was already in there. After some time and no answer to my phone calls I went to the bar, drank a couple of beers and after bar staff told me to call again the lady answered. But she wasn't any way connected with the bar. Anyway, the Spanish pilgrim was sleeping when I was knocking and important to emphasize that "pilgrims" albergue is kind of at the back and therefore harder to hear the knocking.
The meal in the bar was the largest ever on my Caminos. Not the cheapest though. Even the Spaniard seemed stoned after eating it

Kinky, do you think that this "Spaniard in the albergue" actually lives there? I mean during my day walking, no one passed me that I know yet was surprised to find someone sleeping there. I am sure there are more reasonable explanations rather than tbis guy is a permanent resident or phantom even!

How about Jean Luc saying there are TWO albergues there and I may have knocked on the wrong albergue door? I do remember the bar tender saying 'are you sure you know where the albergue is?' and my response 'of course" not imagining there could be TWO albergues in tbis tiny town near each other!

 

[pilgr]

In Narillos de San Leonardo should be tienda and bar according to my notes but I didn't search for them.
But I can confirm that in Cardenosa there are at least one tienda (more likely carniceria but those held lots of other stuff), and three bars. First one is soon after you hit the street in the village (with the pilgrims fountain) and then turn right. I think the bar is on the left side of that street. Looked more like some kind of centro social to me though. Soon after that you turn right into narrow street and come to main street through the village and on the right corner is a bar. Very pricey for rural Spain I thought, 1,40€ for 0,2l beer bottle (they don't have larger beer at all ). I've seen signs for another bar further up left on the main drag. So that would make 3 of them. And a CR!

I had a very "trippy" experience in Cardenosa. I found a bar there that happened to be on the main carreterra entering the pueblo from Avila way. The bartender was very nice and cooked me food. He seemed so proud to be serving a pilgrim, and pro-offered his sello to me. In the background, he was watching a Spaghetti Western starring Charles Bronson. It made me think that so much of my experience entering these little pueblos on "the plains" of Spain, I felt like something out of Clint Eastwoods "High Plains Drifter."

 

[JLWV]

About the two albergues in Gotarrendura, I confirm they are both at the same place. Laurie speak of Casa Rural instead of albergue. We refer to the same thing. Both have separate doors. I entered by the door at the right side of the building, with a corridor to the patio and pilgrim's rear part. The first picture is the front, the last the pilgrim's part.

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Nice pictures & bring back memories! :O)

 

[pilgr]

Camino de Levante seems to be "the way of the rabbits." I have never seen so many rabbits. Apparently, Spain's name is derived from the rabbit! http://www.ctspanish.com/rabbits.htm

 

[pilgr]

Reflections on Invierno:

Doing the Invierno after walking kms of flat land was a shock to my body. In other words, doing 30km a day on flat land doesn't translate automatically to 30km a day in the mountains of the Invierno. The initial stages are particularly steep, or maybe I just noticed it more! For one, different muscles are used. I had to slow way down on distance and take time off to adjust.

It is a beautiful hike especially around the River Sil and the stages before/after Montforte. You travel along highways hardly in use at all. There is a section of facial art which is posted along a section. Lots of great areas for excellent tasting waters. People are very kind as in most places in Spain. Occassionally, I sensed some non-familiarity in locals to talking to non-fluent Spanish speakers.

I saw no pilgrims. I was told mainly Italians and some French take this route.

There were many loose dogs. I carried a can of spray picked up in Astorga. While I never discharged it, the spray served more as a comfort thing for me and perhaps education for the locals to keep their dogs on leashes. While a number of the loose dogs were quite compelling, none were life threatening.

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Reflections on Invierno:

Doing the Invierno after walking kms of flat land was a shock to my body. In other words, doing 30km a day on flat land doesn't translate automatically to 30km a day in the mountains of the Invierno. The initial stages are particularly steep, or maybe I just noticed it more! For one, different muscles are used. I had to slow way down on distance and take time off to adjust.

It is a beautiful hike especially around the River Sil and the stages before/after Montforte. You travel along highways hardly in use at all. There is a section of facial art which is posted along a section. Lots of great areas for excellent tasting waters. People are very kind as in most places in Spain. Occassionally, I sensed some non-familiarity in locals to talking to non-fluent Spanish speakers.

I saw no pilgrims. I was told mainly Italians and some French take this route.

There were many loose dogs. I carried a can of spray picked up in Astorga. While I never discharged it, the spray served more as a comfort thing for me and perhaps education for the locals to keep their dogs on leashes. While a number of the loose dogs were quite compelling, none were life threatening.

Yes those dogs are everywhere on the Invierno.

I saw no otherpilgrim as well, in July. I thought there would be more people in spring.

I remember the first stage was particularly difficult because of the hills. What stages did you do?

/BP

 

[pilgr]

Yes those dogs are everywhere on the Invierno.

I saw no otherpilgrim as well, in July. I thought there would be more people in spring.

I remember the first stage was particularly difficult because of the hills. What stages did you do?

/BP

What do you mean "what stages did I do?"? I did the whole Enchillada de Invierno!

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

What do you mean "what stages did I do?"? I did the whole Enchillada de Invierno!

Hi.

I meant from which town to the next town.

 

[pilgr]

Hi.

I meant from which town to the next town.

Oh, sorry.
Day 1: Molinaseca to Las Medulas. I wrote K1 I was ready to quit. The mountains between Astorga and Las Medulas, served as a reality check on how many km I hope to do daily. Plus I was having problems with blisters from new shoes. And I accidently left 2 of my 3 shirts back in the albergue in Molinaseca.
Day 2: Las Medulas to O Barco. I stayed at Pension Isla. Great value at 20€. I hope to find several shirts my size 2XL in O Barco. No luck.
Day 3: Train to Ponferrada. Decathalon! Picked up shirts and slept in Ponferrada.
Day 4: Train to O Barco. Walked to A Rua. Stayed in Pension Fabio Sanchez. Good place too. I liked OBarco. Nice shops etc.
Day 5: A Rua to Quiroga. Slept in your favorite Albergue. Then to get more rest, next night "slept" in hostal down the street 17€. I didnt really sleep because the permanent resident in the room next to me had the TV blaring until 2am!
Day 7: Quiroga to Monteforte. Slept in Pension Galicia 18€ incl brkfst. Order for delivery awesome pizza from Pizza Versalles (Bulgarian family). It was so good, I walked to it next day for noon lunch on my way out of town.
Day 8: Monteforte to Penelope's. 15€ for an entire apartment with kitchen and high quality renovated place. Plus I could speak English with someone! I bought spaghetti fixins and wine in Monteforte 10km before.
Day 9: Penelopes to Chantada. I stayed in Mogay Hotel. They cut me a 33€ price from a 44€ rate. Town and pizza was so-so.
Day 10: Chantada to Lalin. I went overboard for me because the forecast was for rain today. Had great lunch at hostal top of the hill in Robiero. I like Lalin. Good pizza here too ☺☺☺

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Day 5: A Rua to Quiroga. Slept in your favorite Albergue.

Ha ha :OD

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Oh, sorry.
Day 1: Molinaseca to Las Medulas. I wrote K1 I was ready to quit. The mountains between Astorga and Las Medulas, served as a reality check on how many km I hope to do daily. Plus I was having problems with blisters from new shoes. And I accidently left 2 of my 3 shirts back in the albergue in Molinaseca.
Day 2: Las Medulas to O Barco. I stayed at Pension Isla. Great value at 20€. I hope to find several shirts my size 2XL in O Barco. No luck.
Day 3: Train to Ponferrada. Decathalon! Picked up shirts and slept in Ponferrada.
Day 4: Train to O Barco. Walked to A Rua. Stayed in Pension Fabio Sanchez. Good place too. I liked OBarco. Nice shops etc.
Day 5: A Rua to Quiroga. Slept in your favorite Albergue. Then to get more rest, next night "slept" in hostal down the street 17€. I didnt really sleep because the permanent resident in the room next to me had the TV blaring until 2am!
Day 7: Quiroga to Monteforte. Slept in Pension Galicia 18€ incl brkfst. Order for delivery awesome pizza from Pizza Versalles (Bulgarian family). It was so good, I walked to it next day for noon lunch on my way out of town.
Day 8: Monteforte to Penelope's. 15€ for an entire apartment with kitchen and high quality renovated place. Plus I could speak English with someone! I bought spaghetti fixins and wine in Monteforte 10km before.
Day 9: Penelopes to Chantada. I stayed in Mogay Hotel. They cut me a 33€ price from a 44€ rate. Town and pizza was so-so.
Day 10: Chantada to Lalin. I went overboard for me because the forecast was for rain today. Had great lunch at hostal top of the hill in Robiero. I like Lalin. Good pizza here too ☺☺☺

Wow,

You have done the Camino de la Pizza! :O)

Thanks, I can see here som advice for me this summer - if I get as far as the Invierno, you never know. That's my plan at least. Penelope, okay, people speak well about that place so I might try it out. O Barco seems like a lovely town, yes. I just passed through but from what I could see it looked nice. All together you stayed at different places than I did last time so I might follow in your footsteps this time. I just remembered the Mogay Hotel got some poor reviews from... well I don't remember, but I read that somewhere, so I didn't stay there last time. Was it ok?

 

[pilgr]

Wow,

You have done the Camino de la Pizza! :O)

Thanks, I can see here som advice for me this summer - if I get as far as the Invierno, you never know. That's my plan at least. Penelope, okay, people speak well about that place so I might try it out. O Barco seems like a lovely town, yes. I just passed through but from what I could see it looked nice. All together you stayed at different places than I did last time so I might follow in your footsteps this time. I just remembered the Mogay Hotel got some poor reviews from... well I don't remember, but I read that somewhere, so I didn't stay there last time. Was it ok?

The Moray Hotel is a big hotel that doesn't give a rat's two cents. For example, I read in Laurie's guide about questions concerning AC working in the room. Well, I didn't see any AC or heating(which I wanted) in the room per se. This translated to me just another Spanish hotel trying to cut costs by holding back on room client-climate control. I would take a chance on one of the pension's in town instead.

Yes, I am presently on the Tour de Pizza. Two times today in Lalin. After 2.5 months of limited Spanish food (because I don't eat meat), I am grabbing at straws.

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

The Moray Hotel is a big hotel that doesn't give a rat's two cents. For example, I read in Laurie's guide about questions concerning AC working in the room. Well, I didn't see any AC or heating(which I wanted) in the room per se. This translated to me just another Spanish hotel trying to cut costs by holding back on room client-climate control. I would take a chance on one of the pension's in town instead.

Yes, I am presently on the Tour de Pizza. Two times today in Lalin. After 2.5 months of limited Spanish food (because I don't eat meat), I am grabbing at straws.

Oh, I know of a pensión I already have stayed in there, perhaps I should stick to that. Thanks for the info!

 

[pilgr]

So I just got my compestelo. New offices! And new way of doing Compestelos???

I told the agent I walked the Levante and Invierno, and therefore my compestelo should read 1300km. So that is what she wrote!

I tried that two years ago after walking the La Plata, and the agent corrected me. She said La Plata ='s 950km (?), as if it was a defined fact in the Compestelo world, no matter what I thought.

Any insights?

 

[KinkyOne]

...
Day 1: Molinaseca to Las Medulas. I wrote K1 I was ready to quit. The mountains between Astorga and Las Medulas, served as a reality check on how many km I hope to do daily. Plus I was having problems with blisters from new shoes. And I accidently left 2 of my 3 shirts back in the albergue in Molinaseca.
...

Christ, I did Ponferrada to Las Medulas in two days (OK, I started at noon from Ponferrada) and what you did clearly ended in wanting to quit. I mean I would if I did that

You in Santiago already? Talking about Compostela and that...

 

[pilgr]

Christ, I did Ponferrada to Las Medulas in two days (OK, I started at noon from Ponferrada) and what you did clearly ended in wanting to quit. I mean I would if I did that

You in Santiago already? Talking about Compostela and that...

I thought life was horrible that evening in Las Medulas writing you, until I just read your posts on being infested with chinches on the Invierno! 200+ bites??? I would have checked myself into a hospital!

Yep, have the ole compostelo in my hands today

 

[KinkyOne]

I thought life was horrible that evening in Las Medulas writing you, until I just read your posts on being infested with chinches on the Invierno! 200+ bites??? I would have checked myself into a hospital!

Yep, have the ole compostelo in my hands today

Yes, was on the brink of ending it altogether and check into hospital. But Asun's therapy in A Rua helped a lot.

Congratulations!!!

Enjoy Santiago. And pizza

 

[pilgr]

 

[gracethepilgrim]

Congratulations Matt! Super effort and a hug to thank you for all your posts

 

[JLWV]

Congratulations Matt

Levante is "busy" in this moment: between Higueruela and Chinchilla (30 km) are in this moment Mauricio from Italy, Tony from England, Luc from Belgium, Michel from Switzerland, Giani from Italy, and I, from Valencia, Spain.
Oh, and I know that 2 days behind is coming Marie from France.

 

[KinkyOne]

Like, like, like!!!

 

[ortemio]

I will be starting Thurs 18 a few days behind. Seems like a good way to spend 40 days!

 

[peregrina2000]

I will be starting Thurs 18 a few days behind. Seems like a good way to spend 40 days!

Oh, ortemio, you absolutely right. It is wonderful! Buen camino to you.

 

[gracethepilgrim]

I'll be a week behind. No way I'll catch up but please drop some breadcrumbs in the tricky bits