LIVE from the Camino Phil and Janet from Sarria to Santiago

[J Willhaus]

Done with our volunteer time in Arres on the Aragon Way. On the train to Sarria now.

Stayed at the Oxygen hostal in Madrid last night in a double pod. Phil hated it because he likes to spread out. Packs are kept in a secure locker away from your sleeping pod. Extremely clean and quiet. Perfect location near Atocha station. Pods have a single plug so we had to run and buy an extension cord with 2 outlets for our 2 CPAP machines. Place to get coffee and a small breakfast of cakes in house.

We had supper at NuBel next to the Sophia Reina. Pretty good food and not outrageously priced. Will consider this for my students this winter. They have a DJ some evenings and days. A hip, happening place. Food was good. We had expensive drinks (the green bird) and supper. Food priced well. Vegetarian options available.

Went up to Puerta del Sol and had a breakfast nearby. Walked through the Plaza Mayor and also visited the Hat hostel and got contact info for my Study Abroad Group this winter. Location not as easy as Oxygen, but might be a better option for students. Open and airy in the lobby.

We are making this journey to scout for a 2 week class I will offer my students this winter during the intercession term. Pilgrimage for the mind , body, and soul is the course title. It is about personal wellness. I teach nursing and believe you must learn to care for yourself before you can care for others.

On the train in our car are lots of pilgrims. Many with suitcases. Some with just packs like ours. I will withhold judgment. We each do our own Camino.

FYI, Chamartin station was quite a mess. Phil and I followed signs to the bathroom. It did not exist. Options to buy a coke at Burger King and use theirs, but we just waited until we got on the train.

 

[mspath]

Janet and Phil,
May I be the first of your many followers to wish you another happy new journey. Looking forward to reading your posts as you progress.
Buen camino and, as always, Ultreia !

 

[vernakeoho]

Janet and Phil ... I always read your posts about whatever subject is being discussed. They're informative and offer well-founded options, based on your experiences. Thank you for making time to assist so many others as they pursue their pilgrimage.

 

[Vacajoe]

The Hat is an excellent Hostel for your students! Love the location, evening Sangria “class” and the ground floor lounge. Definitely a better location for students.

 

[trecile]

On the train in our car are lots of pilgrims. Many with suitcases. Some with just packs like ours. I will withhold judgment. We each do our own Camino.

I always have a suitcase along with my backpack. The suitcase gets sent to Santiago for my post Camino travels. I carry my backpack.

 

[Phil W]

I always have a suitcase along with my backpack. The suitcase gets sent to Santiago for my post Camino travels. I carry my backpack.

No these are not sending to Santiago. Small packs so forwarding as they go. It doesn't matter unless they want to stay in one of the albergues with a suitcase ban. Xunta albergues don't accept shipped luggage so I doubt we'll see many suitcases after today.

 

[CaminoKentucky]

As always, I appreciate your informative posts. I wish you a happy journey, and please keep us posted on how things develop for your "Pilgrimage for the mind , body, and soul" course. Ultreia!

 

[J Willhaus]

Made it to Sarria. The train dumped us at Ourense and we were bussed from there. It was 3 busloads with a lot of suitcases on top of our backpacks. Fortunately no damage. The bus was full of languages. On the ground we checked into out AirBNB. Nice place, very large and a possible contender for the students' first night if I can get a second one so we can have 12 people total. Students may not share beds per university policy and faculty are supposed to have their own rooms.

We could cook together the first night. Important to consider budget with students. Grocery stores within walking distance so we picked up items for breakfast and lunch. Then went and had a drink on the river with hundreds of other pilgrims. There was a battle of the bands of sorts with two different venues and live music.

After a drink we went to eat at an off-Camino place. Large salad with anchovies and tuna and a racion of Padron peppers. Wine and water not included here. Salads 10 euros. Peppers 10 euros. Wine 2.40.

Will walk by the possible albergue contenders this morning on our way out of town. There are a few that you can reserve for groups in the winter. Most of the rest are closed. The Xunta albergue has only 20 beds so don't want to bank on that if our train arrives at 6 pm from Madrid.

We are only going to Ferreiros today. Short walk the first few days for students so for us, too. Phil is happier today in a big place and not a pod. Will try the Xunta albergue tonight if they are not full. Heading out about 7:30 this morning as it will be fully light.

 

[mspath]

Janet and Phil,
Years ago when I walked I loved the Xunta albergue in Ferreiros. Open all year it was then a perfect small place with only 20 places amidst a beautiful landscape.

Nearby down the hill next to the local church was a very good and very friendly restaurant/bar Meson Mirabilos. My truly delicious Sunday lunch in December 2014 was fresh clam soup, breaded veal cutlet with cream sauce, cheese tart, thick country bread, water, wine and coffee for 10 €

I hope that you find these spots still special.
Happy planning !

 

[J Willhaus]

I am at Casa Morgade waiting on Phil to catch up. We stopped for a soda and sello at Barbadello and a coffee and tortilla at Peruscallo. He was pretty much dying then. I didn't think I was this far ahead, but I ordered two sodas and have waiting some time now for him. Only 1 more km to Ferreiros so I hope can hold out. We discussed shipping his pack, but that limits where we can stay and probably requires reservations.

A lot of pilgrims on the road. Most passed us early so walking without too many around now. A slight drizzle for a bit which stopped when we put on our ponchos. Flowers pretty. We stayed at Morgade once before, but still hoping for Ferrerios. He just showed up so will enjoy our refrescos.

 

[J Willhaus]

I think the arm injuries may be a trend? Seems like I have read about several peregrinas falling and getting either a bad sprain or a fracture in recent years.

Phil and I are here at Ferreiros. There are currently 3 pilgrims including us. Nice albergue for 8 euros. It will probably he fine for my students. I heard the other pilgrim tell someone on the phone, the private albergue is completo. We will walk up there for supper or walk down the hill as MS Path suggests, but ate our bocadillo that I made for lunch. I doubt we will be full, but we will see. The hospitalero is a cranky old man. I interrupted his soduku puzzle and he wanted Phil here PRONTO!

I am attaching photos. Washing machine 3 euros and a dryer for 2 euros if needed although there us a line outside.

 

[J Willhaus]

Most pilgrims we saw had small packs or no packs at all today. Even the teenagers are shipping their bags it seems. Still a few old school like us. This is a big change since we were on this stretch in 2016. I will say most of the private places have made improvements with extra shops, tables, etc.

 

[J Willhaus]

Just for @mspath,
Went down the hill. Huge poftions. I had salmon on la plancha. Phil had Raxo. Dessert pictured below.


The cheapest meal so far and the most food by far! Hooray for the off stage places. Wine water, bread, 3 courses included. 15 euros.

 

[WalkinRon]

Thank you SO much for all the useful information! Your threads about your volunteer time are chock full of lessons--even with my experience staying at various casas rural albergues and hotels on my first Camino, I'll be a more thoughtful pilgrim guest on my second Camino with a better understanding of the viewpoint of the many wonderful folk providing these accommodations.

...On the train in our car are lots of pilgrims. Many with suitcases. Some with just packs like ours. I will withhold judgment. We each do our own Camino...

Preparing for my first Camino I looked at the Caminofacil luggage transport website and it looked so easy that I thought: "Why not?" Well now I have a better understanding of why not! I'm now planning to walk the second half of my Camino Frances--from León to Santiago de Compostela--without a suitcase.

Most pilgrims we saw had small packs or no packs at all today. Even the teenagers are shipping their bags it seems. Still a few old school like us. This is a big change since we were on this stretch in 2016...

I've been recently considering a minimalist approach. No suitcase and no backpack. Maybe on my second day I would pick up a small messenger bag to strap across my neck and shoulder with a spare pair of socks and spare underwear (and, perhaps, a water bottle if I get tired of holding it in my hand). It's a slippery slope indeed. There's many many discussions on this forum about not carrying too much. However, now I'm wondering what's too little.

Thank you again for your fabulous threads... They're very enjoyable reading and I learn something from every post!

Buen Camino!!

 

[J Willhaus]

New use for a redundant item. In Pamplona this year we bought new Altus rain ponchos to replace our FrogTogg ponchos. I haven't walked much in the rain, but thinking ahead to winter, I felt I wanted the more substantial coverage of an Altus.

Being the thrifty traveler, I didn't want to discard the relatively new FrogToggs. They are light so we decided to keep carrying them. Phil remembered his Army days in Europe on some exercise in Berlin where he led a mixed platoon as OpFor infantry against the French in a park in what was then West Berlin. The exercise was shortened and then called off and he slept against a tree wrapped in his Army poncho and was awakened in the morning by his troops with snow all over him.

So last night the redundant ponchos became blankets over our silk liner bags. We opened them up and spread them out like a blanket. I don't think I really needed it, but Phil sleeps cold and it makes me feel good that we didn't leave them in a discard box somewhere.

Nice evening chatting with other pilgrims over wine at the private albergue's bar. Supper and then to bed at 9 pm or so. First pilgrim left today at 5 am. Second pilgrim at 6:15. We plan to be on the road between 7 :30 and 8. Portomarin today is only about 9 km. Another short day and I want to scout the Xunta albergue there.

Hope to stop in at Villache to say hello tp the Americans who run the albergue Las Banderas there.

 

[J Willhaus]

Thank you SO much for all the useful information! Your threads about your volunteer time are chock full of lessons--even with my experience staying at various casas rural albergues and hotels on my first Camino, I'll be a more thoughtful pilgrim guest on my second Camino with a better understanding of the viewpoint of the many wonderful folk providing these accommodations.



Preparing for my first Camino I looked at the Caminofacil luggage transport website and it looked so easy that I thought: "Why not?" Well now I have a better understanding of why not! I'm now planning to walk the second half of my Camino Frances--from León to Santiago de Compostela--without a suitcase.



I've been recently considering a minimalist approach. No suitcase and no backpack. Maybe on my second day I would pick up a small messenger bag to strap across my neck and shoulder with a spare pair of socks and spare underwear (and, perhaps, a water bottle if I get tired of holding it in my hand). It's a slippery slope indeed. There's many many discussions on this forum about not carrying too much. However, now I'm wondering what's too little.

Thank you again for your fabulous threads... They're very enjoyable reading and I learn something from every post!

Buen Camino!!

Dont Be fooled, our packs are not small, but due to the need to carry CPAP and essential meds, mine weighs about 6 kilos. I have one pair of walking clothes, one merino dress for evening and sleep wear and a skort with shelf bra top that can be summer shorts or a swimsuit. 3 socks, 3 undies, 2 bras, t-towel for shower, some toiletries and we carry some food and water. I also bring safety pins to hang out clothes and rubber bands and some zip lock bags. All things we use. I go through my bag each night and discard extra receipts, etc as i keep a small notebook to log expenses and make notes.

I think a total of maybe 8 in the dorm last night. 4 bikes came late. Raining today so will use the new ponchos.

 

[mspath]

Just for @mspath,
Went down the hill. Huge poftions. I had salmon on la plancha. Phil had Raxo. Dessert pictured below.
View attachment 149559View attachment 149560

The cheapest meal so far and the most food by far! Hooray for the off stage places. Wine water, bread, 3 courses included. 15 euros.

Good morning to you both,
So glad that you were pleased with your meal. Carpe diem!

 

[J Willhaus]

In Parrocho having my first real Coffee con Leche of the day. I got some instant ones for places where I can nuke a cup of water and Phil and I shared a big cup with two packets this morning as he chose not to bring the microwavable cup I got him. We split a big orange and had 2 breakfast bars. No tortilla as the bar/Cafe just opened. Phil is about 1 km back. Road surface is good today and not many steep climbs so I felt ok going ahead.

Walked in liquid sunshine. Everything so green and fragrant. Took a photo and got a sello at the 100 km marker.

We saw a couple we spoke with last night. She shared that she had a progressive physical disability and was discouraged that they were having to hurry to get lodging. I remembered that @JabbaPapa said the Xunta albergues had special rules about facilities for people with documented disabilities. Our albergue did last night have a lower bunk and a special bathroom. I hope that will help them feel better about the journey. Phil showed her husband how to identify the Xunta albergues on his Wise Pilgrim app.

 

[Kirkie]

To Phil and yourself: thank you for the regular postings,
You know well how appreciative members are, from the replies.
A recent one shows that simple sharing opens eyes to what lies behind the scenes.
I will keep an eye out, but as am travelling tomorrow and then on duty for a couple of weeks, could be that I will miss some stages. Safe journey home when it happens.

 

[J Willhaus]

Made it to Portomarin and we were 2 and 3 in line for beds at the mega-Xunta albergue with 88 beds. We are sleeping with many new best friends tonight in dorms with many beds. Photos later. We chose a bottom and top bunk by the door where we could use our double plug eztension for our CPAP machines. Good purchase that extension!

Had a menu del dia. I had Caldo Gallego for my starter which was very good. It continues to drizzle. We will find a grocery store for tomorrow's provisions. The kitchen is magnificent as usual in Galicia Xunta Albergues with not a single utensil. There is a microwave so instant Cafe con leche is possible tomorrow. Might try to find a cup for Phil so I don't have to share. Yes, selfish, I know... We will get fruit and something for lunch tomorrow.

Portomarin is a stage town so lots of pilgrims here, but not as many as if they started on a Friday, Saturday, or Sunday. A mix of new and experienced pilgrims in line waiting to get into the albergue. Met a man from Wales, a girl from California, a woman from Taiwan, and one from South Korea.

Tomorrow to Hospital to a smaller Xunta albergue. I am certain these will be perfect for students and available in the winter. Food may he a different story, but I will work that out even if I have to taxi somewhere and back for pizzas. Distances seem much longer when you are walking.

Phil did great today. Distance was short and the road surface stable. Not too many steep climbs. Climbing all day tomorrow, but its only 13 or 14 km. Loved our new Altus ponchos. No commercial relationship with them, but highly recommended by Janet and Phil!

 

[mspath]

Janet and Phil,
For tomorrow 3 minutes from the Xunta albergue at Hospital de Cruz where you plan to stop the Bar/Hostal O Labrador does all 3 meals for everyone and years past was very much the local truckstop. They might be able to cater your winter group. Telephone 681 017 416.

 

[J Willhaus]

Our dorm tonight. I think 28 beds in this dorm. 88 beds in the albergue. May be an earplugs night. Also the CPAP arrangement.

 

[AnneO]

I am in Portomarin tonight too.

 

[Phil W]

I am in Portomarin tonight too.

Janet and I are at the "A Taberna de Martino" drinking agua con gas. We are sitting on the sidewalk. It is across the street from the church if you want to meet.

 

[AnneO]

Janet and I are at the "A Taberna de Martino" drinking agua con gas. We are sitting on the sidewalk. It is across the street from the church if you want to meet.

Would love to! I am very close to there. I will come by shortly! I will be wearing a grey T-shirt and blue joggers.

 

[J Willhaus]

I am in Portomarin tonight too.

Yes will be here until the pilgrim mass at 8 pm so please stop by. Phil is wearing a yellow shirt. I have on a green dress with a mesh wrap.[

 

[mspath]

.....
I've been recently considering a minimalist approach. No suitcase and no backpack. Maybe on my second day I would pick up a small messenger bag to strap across my neck and shoulder with a spare pair of socks and spare underwear (and, perhaps, a water bottle if I get tired of holding it in my hand). It's a slippery slope indeed. There's many many discussions on this forum about not carrying too much. However, now I'm wondering what's too little.

WalkinRon,

One pilgrim with whom I climbed O Cebreiro 2012 in a late November blizzard seemed to have the perfect solution.

He had neither pack nor sleeping bag but simply carried all essentials within 4 sturdy zip-lock bags in his pockets.Two large pockets on a snow-proof jacket contained Credencial, national passport, smartphone, phone charger, credit card, some cash, toiletries and a miniscule towel. Two pockets on his snow-proof trousers contained a change of briefs, second set of long underwear, second pair of hiking socks, a silk/polyester bag liner and flip flops. Nothing more was deemed necessary. ...Climbing together through a white-out for five hours I learned this 'secret' and many more!

 

[J Willhaus]

We had a meet up with @AnneO for drinks. She also takes students on study abroad trips from her school so was a wealth of information.

Went to pilgrim mass after and now back getting ready for bed. The downtown Xunta albergue in Palas de Rey is closed for maintenance so will need to rethink that for the day after tomorrow. There is a big Xunta albergue at the top of the hill to the entrance to town, but not central to anything.

Will try to be on the road again at 7:30. Going 13 km tomorrow.

 

[AnneO]

We had a meet up with @AnneO for drinks. She also takes students on study abroad trips from her school so was a wealth of information.

Went to pilgrim mass after and now back getting ready for bed. The downtown Xunta albergue in Palas de Rey is closed for maintenance so will need to rethink that for the day after tomorrow. There is a big Xunta albergue at the top of the hill to the entrance to town, but not central to anything.

Will try to be on the road again at 7:30. Going 13 km tomorrow.

It was great meeting you! Buen Camino!

 

[Phil W]

It was great meeting you! Buen Camino!

Thank you. It was great meeting you too.

 

[J Willhaus]

Good morning. We had an epic snorer last night right next to my bed. At 12:30 I found my ear plugs. A short time later, Phil got up and woke him and told him to sleep on his side. It didn't help much...He definitely had the dangerous sleep apnea kind of snoring which Phil and I have and that my Dad has. A CPAP makes the night much more restful and you don't snore although Phil still does make noise sometimes if his mask is leaking. It is 7:30 and we are are ready to set out for Hospital. Almost everyone else headed to Palast de Rey.

 

[J Willhaus]

Good morning. We had an epic snorer last night right next to my bed. At 12:30 I found my ear plugs. A short time later, Phil got up and woke him and told him to sleep on his side. It didn't help much...He definitely had the dangerous sleep apnea kind of snoring which Phil and I have and that my Dad has. A CPAP makes the night much more restful and you don't snore although Phil still does make noise sometimes if his mask is leaking. It is 7:30 and we are are ready to set out for Hospital. Almost everyone else headed to Palast de Rey.

Just want to add when Phil woke him and told him to turn on side the pilgrim said, "Yes, I hope that helps" so he knows it is a problem. Phil said there were people in the dorm who moved outside and slept on mats and benches to escape the noise. So sorry for this pilgrim. I hope he will get some medical attention soon as sleep apnea is linked to many, many health problems...

I am sitting g outside the little albergue at Hospital. There is a sign on the door that says, call if you plan to stay here. It is 12:35 so I called to alert the hospitalera and she said "Yes, we open at 1 pm". I mentioned the sign and she repeated that they open at 1 pm.

The Castro was a little disappointing. Not much signage. Apparently a visitor center was only started and not completed. It is at steep climbs and a little dangerous getting back to the Camino with a pack on. A nice man was guiding some touragrinos helped me get down the steep slope.

Today was pretty much all up hill. Phil is still back there somewhere. I called and told him to skip the Castro as i didn't want him to fall. Lots of groups today supported by buses and vans. Lovely day for walking. No rain, temp cool, but we had sun.

 

[J Willhaus]

 

[J Willhaus]

Phil met acouple today fron the Boise Chapter of American Pilgrims on the Camino. He helped s found that Chapter several years ago before we moved. They recognized him from his photo.

 

[J Willhaus]

Ok, new plan. Phil had a "come to Jesus" talk with me. He does not feel he is physically capable of carrying his own pack longer distances over this hilly terrain. He was wiped out today when he arrived after only 13 km although it was mostly uphill.

He can't ship his pack to Xunta albergues so we are going with private rooms after tonight. Although I really want to experience this as I will with my students this winter, Phil is much more important and he's already been a good sport about this whole thing which was supposed to be "our"Camino for the year. He agreed to change our walking plans to this crowded and commercialized section and now I need to think about him.

We'll put the CPAP machines and all our meds in my pack and the clothes and toiletries in his and ship his beginning as soon as we can figure out how to do it. We are definitely rookies on that front as we have only shipped a pack one or two days.

 

[Phil W]

Supper at O Labrador as suggested by @mspath. Kept forgetting to make a photo as the food was so good! Here's what was left after I remembered!
..

 

[mspath]

Supper at O Labrador as suggested by @mspath. Kept forgetting to make a photo as the food was so good! Here's what was left after I remembered!
..View attachment 149726View attachment 149727

Phil and Janet,
One again I am glad that you were pleased. How reassuring it is that the old restos still have their flair.... Palais de Rei has many private albergues, pensions and restos for your walk tomorrow. Carpe diem.

 

[J Willhaus]

The Xunta albergue had only 10 pilgrims last night. It was nice and spacious although the microwave needed a good scrub out. No snoring last night. No one left before 7:30. Phil and I were the last out at 8 am.

Good walk today and some gorgeous hydrangeas in different hues. I love them as Phil got me some for my bridal bouquet 17 years ago. He's color blind, but asked the florist to help him select and then brought them to me as we rushed off to the church after work to get married one late afternoon. Seems like last week and we're still very much in love now as we were then.

In the Pension Casa Cura tonight. I have the bag shipping thing done and made reservations through to Santiago now. Don't like to do it that way, but it will allow us to continue the Camino together.

Ate lunch at Meson a Forxa, delicious, but slight more than the last 2 days of menus at 17 euros each. I had freshly grilled razor clams for the first course. Phil had a delicious salad with walnuts, raisins, fresh tomato, lettuce, and tetilla cheese. We both had home baked meat lasagna and then for dessert, I had home cultured yogurt with honey and walnuts while Phil had rice pudding. He also ate most of my postre, too.

Afterwards we went to the grocery store and also looked for someplace to print Phil's tag for his Correos shipment. The lady at the Suseia Pilgrim store printed it for free. We also went to Correos and shipped the liner bags, a blow up pillow, and the FroggTogg rain ponchos to our Madrid hotel since we won't need to carry them the rest of the trip.

I wanted to go our to Vilar do Donas in a cab. But Phil is asleep and it will be too late by the time he wakes as they close at 8 pm. Might close my eyes a minute, too.

 

[mspath]

Glad to read that you both are comfortable in Palas de Rei.
Tomorrow do consider a second breakfast in O Coto at the casa rurale Los Somozas, directly on the CF/calle O Leboreiro as it joins route LU P 4001.
A large tent with bar serving food is set up to welcome passing pilgrims in the garden.
Although I have never stayed there I have eaten here during all past caminos. The barman/owner was always very jovial and kind.
From Coto the walk to Melide will take about one hour following the CF.
Enjoy your next days and , as always, Ultreia.

 

[J Willhaus]

Bags are sorted. I will take the meds and CPAP's (a lot of stuff for two aging pilgrims) along with snacks. Phil has a tiny backpack that wads up into a ball and fits in its own bag. He's got his rain poncho, water, misc. nose sprays and cough drops for the Galicia pollen. Not sure what else and he will have his hat, sunscreen and walking sticks. Clothes and toiletries in the shipped bag. There are stores in Spain if it goes missing, I guess. I remember in 2016 the pilgrim horror stories about bags that did not arrive or didn't get picked up at all. I've also seen the insecure locations that bags are kept awaiting pickup and after arrival. It will take me a few days to trust, but by then we'll be in Santiago...

Tomorrow Melide! Its about 15 km. I definitely want to go see the Pembre Castle to see if it is a worthwhile side trip for the students even if Phil needs to nap through it...

In 2016, Phil got food poisoning in Melide after eating some suspect fish. He was very ill for several days and we saw the rest by taxi. This year hope to get a legit Compostela. The one from 2016 was due to the generosity of a volunteer who saw we'd been on the Camino for 45 days before Phil took ill. It was an emotional experience and I amnot sure the new fangled registration and printed version will make us feel the same way. Much to anticipate with a cautious approach. Will try to keep an open mind as I am to the bag shipping...

 

[peregrina2000]

The Xunta albergue had only 10 pilgrims last night. It was nice and spacious although the microwave needed a good scrub out.

Oh, if only all hospitaleros had the same standards of cleanliness and hygiene as Janet and Phil!

 

[J Willhaus]

Today was the first day without a pack for Phil. He had his lighter day pack and then God sent us a gift. A Peregrina from California passes us early in the morning after we had passed her taking a photo.Phil commented it was the first Pilgrim he had passes so far the whole trip. Shortly she edged past as we were going up a hill. I looked at Phil and said, "It isn't a race and she turned and said in English, "It certainly isn't ". She and Phil fell into step together and walked the whole way slowly at their pace. I waited at a couple of stops. I told her of Phil's love of the Camino and his enjoyment in talking with pilgrims at one stop whole he was away in the bathroom. She told me, "Normally, I would have given up and called a cab by now, but the miles are slipping away!" It turns out they are both Standardized Patients for various health professions programs, so they spent the morning comparing experiences. We will meet her later for a bite to eat here in Melide.

We had a good walk. No rain. Not too hot. We got stamps from the International Guardia Civil van. Officers from France, Portugal, Italy and Spain. We tried to find the place mentioned by @mspath and did find a tent place, but the Las Samosas place had no tent. I am attaching photos of the updated Las Samosas.

Laundry today and I want to go to the castle. We are in the Hotel Lux Melide right on the Camino downtown.

 

[J Willhaus]

Good hotel. Bag was right there for us. Excellent location near all stores, restaurants, etc. Met our new friend for a lunch of Racions and beer at the Pulperia Garnasha. We had a medium platter of pulpo, zamborinos, Padron peppers, salad And chorizo. Phil had a dessert of orujo cream cake. We will contact her on WhatsApp in the morning to see if she wants to meet up and walk.

Phil went to the laundromat while I took a cab to the castle. A lot was in Gallego, but I downloaded the English translations to review later. One thing was clear--this was no palace. It was a military fortification. I think the students would like it especially if I can make it into a lesson plan with the info I downloaded.. it is really back in the tullies though on a lot of narrow roads.



When I got back, we went to get breakfast groceries and then had drinks on the terrace.

 

[Pathfinder075]

Stayed at the Oxygen hostal in Madrid last night in a double pod.

Quite disappointed when i read about this and discovered they weren't doing a Michael Jackson and giving you a pod with pure O2.

When you said pod, I thought maybe it was hyberbaric type place, like a speciality spa with enriched air treatments. Get your blood juiced up with pure O2 before the hard work, type of thing.

 

[J Willhaus]

Quite disappointed when i read about this and discovered they weren't doing a Michael Jackson and giving you a pod with pure O2.

When you said pod, I thought maybe it was hyberbaric type place, like a speciality spa with enriched air treatments. Get your blood juiced up with pure O2 before the hard work, type of thing.

I liked it, Phil was not a fan as he felt cramped. It was super clean and secure with a 24/7 desk clerk. Pods very private with an actual sliding door that locks. Lights, outlet, and a shelf. Separate showers for men and women.Breakfast and work area with lockers that lock and unlock with your pod key.

 

[J Willhaus]

Made it to Arzua with our new friend from California. Good pace of about 2 miles per hour. Stopped for a beer at La Puerta de Arzua as not yet time to check in. Very nice place that isn't on Wise Pilgrim. They have albergue and private rooms. Private room with bath for 50 euros. I told Luis that we would let Micheal at Wise Pilgrim know about it.

Luis said he opened in 2022. He used to own a factory, but sold it after his wife committed suicide. There is a place to eat, a bar, a lovely terrace and looks like a place for horses or burros if you have one.

We are at Hotel Arzua. The bag was right here, too. Must be on the road earlier tomorrow as it is further and I can't really tolerate the heat. We have breakfast starting at 6:30. Phil says I should just go when I am ready and he'll trail along. I had a heat injury last year and can't afford another this close to Santiago.

Photos of the. Xunta albergue at Ribadiso. A lot more infrastructure there now than before, but don't know about winter...

 

[J Willhaus]

Menu del Dia at Ultreia just down from the hotel upon recommendation of our desk clerk. Excellent menu for 13 euros. We all had Arzua cheese salad with walnuts and basalmic and honey dressing as a starter. Wilma and I had pork cheeks cooked in wine with potatoes. Phil had steak of Galego beef. For dessert Phil and Wilma had apple cream strudel with home made apple ice cream. I had cheese cake which Phil and Wilma finished after my usual one or two bites. White albarino wine.

If you are in Arzua this place really is a must! So much good food on the menu! I could go back every day and eat something different. Vegetarian options, too, and one plate with wine, bread and dessert was only 9 euros!

 

[J Willhaus]

Started early, before 7 am today to try to avoid the heat. We walked Arzua to O'Pedrouso which 20 k or 12 miles. It is probably the furthest Camino stage Phil and I have ever walked. Normally we are 16 k or 10 miles tops. It was hot with 90% humidity although not a cloud in the sky.

I wondered where the groups of young people had gone the last two days and they found me today. At least this group appeared to be carrying all their own things, but they were loud and singing to pop music. They would pass me and then stop and then pass me again. GRR... Phil loves them and engages them in conversation which encourages them to be nearer to me. GRR...

Today we were the slowest of slow even being passed by a man in a wheelchair. We ran into some people we haven't seen for two days and of course it was like "old home" week! Phil kept pace with me until the last 6 k when I kicked into a higher gear to try to avoid the increasing heat. I stopped and waited for him with a cold beer and we ate a pizza before checking in and collapsing in our room for a few hours nap. I drank 6 agua con gas today. Phil had 2 cokes, and 3 Kaz. We both drank several bottles of regular water and ate an entire can of Pringle for the salt. None of these products are things we consume at home!

After a nap, we went to the laundromat and sat in a nearby restaurant hydrating and eating Padron peppers. Then we went to the grocery store for tomorrow's items and the last push to Santiago. Yogurt, fruit and protein bars, plus another can of Pringle for the road. I bought another agua con gas and Phil bought 2 more cold Kaz to drink in our room tonight.

We saw the International Guardia Civil unit again at A Rua and two officers on horseback about midway. I have to say that even though there are a ton of people on this last 115 km, there have been many times when I walked alone and in complete silence. I have been asking about what is open in the winter for my students and the answer is always "not much" but I think it will work out as Caminos often do.

Tomorrow we have an AirBNB for 2 nights outside the main part of Santiago so a bit quieter. We will go to Mass and get Compostelas Monday. We hope to meet up with some forum members and people that have met this week for a drink or for a meal. Then to Muxia for 2 nights in the penthouse apartment at Belle Muxia to rest and reflect on this Camino and our volunteer time in Arres. Photos today include the morning mists, beverages, the Mounted GC patrol, a fountain where about 40 frogs were calling for a mate, a mobile massage table, and the remains of our lunch.

 

[J Willhaus]

Made it to Santiago! About 7.5 hours. Not as hot today. Phil was wilting before we arrived though and it took a long time for him to walk to our accommations after we picked up his pack at Correos.

More after a rest...

 

[Adelina]

Felicidades! Congratulations! Thank you for your posts.

 

[dougfitz]

Congratulations. Well done.

 

[mspath]

Félicitations! All who have followed your posts during the past weeks will be so pleased that you both have safely arrived. Enjoy your days in Santiago

 

[Kirkie]

A marathon reportage, from hospitaleros to pilgrims arriving. Thank you, and safe home.

 

[Bala]

Congratulations! Well done!

 

[J Willhaus]

Walked to Correos to get Phil's pack. It was a Sunday afternoon and I remembered how much I disliked the crowds and tons of tourists enjoying the narrow streets. At Correos, the clerk was cautious about giving us the bag. I could see it right there, but she insisted on seeing the email with my code.

We had a mile to walk to the AirBNB. Phil was really struggling. He said I was walking too fast and called out to me several times to "please wait". I wanted to get out of the crowd and the increasing heat quickly, but his 72 year old body and legs just needed me to slow down. I felt ashamed of my impatience so waited for him before I turned each corner.

Mr Google was not our friend and took us a block away from our place. Thankfully, the owner had posted a photo of our little house so I was able to backtrack and find it sitting cheerfully on the banks of the River Sar. We are in a free standing house with 2 bedrooms next to what appears to be a boat dock. We are on a river walking path and it is not a bad walk back into the old town albeit mostly uphill. Quiet and lovely.

After Phil had a nap and I laundered our clothes in the machine and dried them on the terrace, we walked back and met our Pilgrim friend, Wilma, from California for supper. We had drinks and then a meal at at the Mercado de Galicia. Very cool place with about 8 different kitchens arranged in a marketplace atmosphere. You can choose from vegetarian, typical Gallego, Italian pizza/pasta, Japanese-Gallego fusion, hamburgers, ice cream, other desserts and of course a wine bar, cerveceria, cocktails, and refrescos. Very neat place where you order with the waiter and they go to the market you choose and bring the dishes. Phil had Gallego-style pulled pork with potatoes. Wilma and I both had pasta. They both had dessert, too. Very neat place and I will take my students there as everyone can get what they want.

I realized after looking at all my reservations that we had one night without accommodations so on Tuesday, Phil and I will take the bus to Finesterre for a night, then to Muxia, then back to Santiago and finally to Madrid. I will end this thread now and post anything interesting I find out along the way separately. Today, we will go get Compostelas and go to mass. Hope to meet up with @trecile to put a face to a social media contact if that works out. Thank you all for supporting us on our journey. I have written it before, but really those of you on the forum are the only ones who have any real interest in the Camino. My family glazes over when the topic comes up. Buen Camino to you all!

 

[henrythedog]

Made it to Santiago! About 7.5 hours. Not as hot today. Phil was wilting before we arrived though and it took a long time for him to walk to our accommations after we picked up his pack at Correos.

More after a rest...View attachment 150206

Congratulations. I think what you two do is admirable, and you describe it very well.

 

[Corned Beef]

The Mercado looks a very nice spot. Have put it on my list for later this year, thanks

Mercado La Galiciana · Santiago de Compostela

Un mercado gastronómico con 8 locales de cocina, 3 barras de bebidas y puestos delicatessen, en el corazón de Santiago de Compostela

www.mercadolagaliciana.es

 

[MirtaC]

Hi

Made it to Santiago! About 7.5 hours. Not as hot today. Phil was wilting before we arrived though and it took a long time for him to walk to our accommations after we picked up his pack at Correos.

More

Made it to Sarria. The train dumped us at Ourense and we were bussed from there. It was 3 busloads with a lot of suitcases on top of our backpacks. Fortunately no damage. The bus was full of languages. On the ground we checked into out AirBNB. Nice place, very large and a possible contender for the students' first night if I can get a second one so we can have 12 people total. Students may not share beds per university policy and faculty are supposed to have their own rooms.

We could cook together the first night. Important to consider budget with students. Grocery stores within walking distance so we picked up items for breakfast and lunch. Then went and had a drink on the river with hundreds of other pilgrims. There was a battle of the bands of sorts with two different venues and live music.

After a drink we went to eat at an off-Camino place. Large salad with anchovies and tuna and a racion of Padron peppers. Wine and water not included here. Salads 10 euros. Peppers 10 euros. Wine 2.40.

Will walk by the possible albergue contenders this morning on our way out of town. There are a few that you can reserve for groups in the winter. Most of the rest are closed. The Xunta albergue has only 20 beds so don't want to bank on that if our train arrives at 6 pm from Madrid.

Made it to Sarria. The train dumped us at Ourense and we were bussed from there. It was 3 busloads with a lot of suitcases on top of our backpacks. Fortunately no damage. The bus was full of languages. On the ground we checked into out AirBNB. Nice place, very large and a possible contender for the students' first night if I can get a second one so we can have 12 people total. Students may not share beds per university policy and faculty are supposed to have their own rooms.

We could cook together the first night. Important to consider budget with students. Grocery stores within walking distance so we picked up items for breakfast and lunch. Then went and had a drink on the river with hundreds of other pilgrims. There was a battle of the bands of sorts with two different venues and live music.

After a drink we went to eat at an off-Camino place. Large salad with anchovies and tuna and a racion of Padron peppers. Wine and water not included here. Salads 10 euros. Peppers 10 euros. Wine 2.40.

Will walk by the possible albergue contenders this morning on our way out of town. There are a few that you can reserve for groups in the winter. Most of the rest are closed. The Xunta albergue has only 20 beds so don't want to bank on that if our train arrives at 6 pm from Madrid.

We are only going to Ferreiros today. Short walk the first few days for students so for us, too. Phil is happier today in a big place and not a pod. Will try the Xunta albergue tonight if they are not full. Heading out about 7:30 this morning as it will be fully light.

Hi! My sister and I were on the same train. In coach 5. Had I read these posts while doing Santiago, we could have gotten together in Portomarin. Congrats!

We are only going to Ferreiros today. Short walk the first few days for students so for us, too. Phil is happier today in a big place and not a pod. Will try the Xunta albergue tonight if they are not full. Heading out about 7:30 this morning as it will be fully light.

 

[J Willhaus]

Just a post script here...
I mailed a box of rain ponchos, 2 silk liner bags, and an inflatable pillow to my Madrid hotel. It either didn't arrive or is otherwise lost. I don't have the tracking code so be sure to keep that if you mail something. Nothing critical that can't be replaced but still about $200 plus in gear even if we've had and used it for several years.

 

[Corned Beef]

Just a post script here...
I mailed a box of rain ponchos, 2 silk liner bags, and an inflatable pillow to my Madrid hotel. It either didn't arrive or is otherwise lost. I don't have the tracking code so be sure to keep that if you mail something. Nothing critical that can't be replaced but still about $200 plus in gear even if we've had and used it for several years.

I've done this in Europe before and was surprised when the parcel didn't arrive. The hotel commented that it might be being held at the local sorting office, so I went there and found it. It was too large for the mailman to take on his rounds so they held it over to see if someone would collect it - which I did

Just a post post script.

 

[J Willhaus]

I've done this in Europe before and was surprised when the parcel didn't arrive. The hotel commented that it might be being held at the local sorting office, so I went there and found it. It was too large for the mailman to take on his rounds so they held it over to see if someone would collect it - which I did

Just a post post script.

Well, I mailed it within Spain and it didn't weigh more than a kilo. Might have been how I addressed it or it may be here somewhere and it arrived so early they don't remember where they put it. I will ask again before we leave. But without the tracking number, I feel it is pretty hopeless. No worries, I have a new Altus poncho I can wear camping instead of the Frog Toggs one or I have a really nice Gortex raincoat I can take camping. I could have left it in the "give away" box and some pilgrim would have gotten use out of all of it though...