LIVE from the Camino OzAnnie jumps on Levante from Toledo (with help from friends )

[OzAnnie]

Note from the mods. If anyone wants to see how and why Annie changed her original plan to walk the Francigena to a last minute decision to go to Spain, see this earlier thread

Day 1. Thursday 5 mar 2020
- just checking in!!

Made it to Torrijos- but it tore the stuffing out of me ..
tired and footsore last night- a helpful lady tried to show me the way (last bit to policia locale ) and after she’d led me 250m back in the direction I’d come (from Guardia civil )she realised and felt awful. She’d tried.!! . Thought I’d try being really tough and stayed in the Albergue de peregrinos alone. Visited the Ayuntamiento (same building as policia locale. ). He took me across to the Albergue and explained that on leaving to leave window ajar., lock up and throw key back thru window and slide closed !! Needed a good sweep etc etc. / choice of rooms, beds etc. there were blankets but my trusty sleeping bag gave me a better nights sleep than previous 3!! I will no doubt treat myself along the way.
Nowhere open to eat (nearby) after 8pm so eventually found a bar where I ate coffee and churros and took their last slice of tortilla for mañana.
Oh yes., I was adopted by a large dog from in front of a winery who wouldn’t go home. I realise why it’s better if they are restrained a little.
After the first show of aggressiveness., she just upped and followed me. Approx 15k? About 3k short of Rielves I saw a shepherd with his flock and at this point the dog was held in check by the presence of the sheep dogs.
I was really sad then., I hope she found her way home. She’d romped in the crops and run ahead and waited for me. It was company but I was worrying about her getting home.

So I’m sure she’ll find here way. Her territory.

No mistakes with trail but checked maps me a few times.

I took a lot longer than I expected to walk from Rielves to Torrijos and find policia locale/ finding Levante Route was no problem though. I saw a few signed references to Sureste if you choose to take it.

I was happy to turn the light out last night without the forum.

Annie

Edit: I was late leaving this morning for many reasons.
Day 1 weather was great .. I didn’t even need my gloves but got a tiny bit of rain - not enough for the poncho even ., and it blew away.
Winds were strong from the west tho.

The Albergue : I didn’t try to use the wee electric heater in my room. It seemed to blow up the dust.
I couldn’t open back door where there was a yard with clothesline. There is a drying rack to the side in the kitchen tho.
I gave the whole place a good sweep upstairs and down. The plaster falls everywhere and had to be swept off the stairs as well.
It’s a solidly built place. Large etc but bathrooms aren’t inviting., if you understand me.
After so much walking ., there was a limit to the cleaning I had energy for.
Previous tenants (some days back I think ) hadn’t even emptied the bins. So sorted that too.
Sign says free wifi but it doesn’t appear to be on .
I had my own data.
And the last was funny. - I do carry toilet paper which was lucky as there was nil there in 3 bathrooms
I left a note for them with my donation..

Last edit on ‘Albergue in Torrijos’. honestly I’ve seen a lot worse. Eg the famous on heading up the Salvador. (poladura) (I know it’s cleaned up it’s act ).
This one has quite a nice entry room. You could have a great group catch up here. A small toilet and basin off that. Very large area has marble type staircase going up to the left. Ie very easy to sweep. Kitchen is tired but does have a microwave. Plenty of plates but one one spoon and no knives.
Upstairs several rooms but look to have only one double bunk bed in each. What puts you off is people who leave the blankets strewn (unmade beds). Sure a few seconds to fold it neatly.
One bathroom has large shower ( roomy ).
The room around the hall at end I slept in can be locked off from the rest .. has a bolt. It also has a small bathroom. Basin and tiny shower.
Bathrooms could do with some love.
But I wouldn’t write this place off.

I’ve noticed that blankets anywhere are a bit ( hmmmmm) and could do with a wash.
I used my scarf both nights for pillow case so if you bring one you’ll use it.

 

[VNwalking]

You're well on your way, Annie! It sounds like a wonderful if long first day. May the good weather hold...and the next albergue be cleaner.

but bathrooms aren’t inviting., if you understand me.

So sorted that too.

Well done, you ~ to have done the cleaning on top of fatigue and minimal dinner!
I wish everyone were as considerate.

 

[peregrina2000]

Wow, Annie, even the two hard core Frenchmen I was walking with didn’t want to stay in the albergue there! You are a star! I can tell you the albergue in Escalona is a lot lot nicer, in the school a bit out of town. I think the bathrooms will live up to slightly higher standards than what you found yesterday.

Carry on, amiga, if you are taking pictures and can post given the wifi situation, it would be great to see some.

Abrazos.

 

[Rick of Rick and Peg]

I thought I would drop you a little note Annie. Peg subscribes to a Spanish Word of the Day. The word for a couple of days ago was ...

Spoiler

Sydney. Really.

Buen camino Annie.

 

[OzAnnie]

Day 2.
Started late -
Colder this morning - needed my gloves and there’s a good head-wind again
More places to stop along the way. - having a lemon Fanta now in a bar at Val de Santo Domingo. (not realising I hadn’t got far enough out to warrant a stop )

Wow, Annie, even the two hard core Frenchmen I was walking with didn’t want to stay in the albergue there! You are a star! I can tell you the albergue in Escalona is a lot lot nicer, in the school a bit out of town. I think the bathrooms will live up to slightly higher standards than what you found yesterday.

Carry on, amiga, if you are taking pictures and can post given the wifi situation, it would be great to see some.

Abrazos.

you know me with pics. The Ozzie paparazzi!
I just didn’t think you’d want too much ..
I’m using home data though and phone seems to be grinding slow. I’ll try later.

I’m in Maqueda.. wow what an awesome looking edifice on the hill as you walk in. I wasn’t energetic enough to investigate whether it was open. Is it a castle ??

The church at the centre looks great too.
Off now to Escaloña

Annie

 

[OzAnnie]

I thought I would drop you a little note Annie. Peg subscribes to a Spanish Word of the Day. The word for a couple of days ago was ...

Spoiler

Sydney. Really.

Buen camino Annie.

Ha ha. I subscribe too (to some word of day) but have been flicking it away for last 2 weeks. I’ll check .. / ha, ha, Sydney - yes crazy people.
I msgd my daughter to say that it was a perfect opportunity to teach her children to use less. , rather than roll the lot on the floor , lol.

 

[OzAnnie]

I can tell you the albergue in Escalona is a lot lot nicer, in the school a bit out of town. I think the bathrooms will live up to slightly higher standards than what you found yesterday.

A question about where this Albergue is?
I don’t want to walk into Escaloña and miss it if it’s on the way in .
I’ll check it out tonight. Would you eat in town and then head out ? Also key ? From in town ?
Annie

 

[peregrina2000]

A question about where this Albergue is?
I don’t want to walk into Escaloña and miss it if it’s on the way in .
I’ll check it out tonight. Would you eat in town and then head out ? Also key ? From in town ?
Annie

Looking just at the notes from my stages I see that it is in the school and a bit out of town. Here’s what I wrote if you can’t open it: (looks like you should get the key in town definitely). Now that I am re-reading my notes I remember a very nice meal in the restaurant looking out over the castle.

Day 20: Torrijos-Escalona (25). Last day of flat, into another small town with a big castle. First our coffee stop in Maqueda, with 10 century Califate door, moorish tower, big fortress church from 13th or 14th century, and 15 century castle. From there to Escalona was an easy three hour walk. Escalona has a nice albergue in the school complex, about a 15 minute walk out of center. 4 beds, one small bathroom. You can get the key either at the policia local or from Chencho, a pilgrim who works in the MAPFRE office in the plaza mayor. 661 52 684. Very good meal in the restaurant on the highway with a view of the castle walls.

We did spend some time poking around Maqueda, the 10th century door was the highlight for the Frenchmen.

Buen camino, Annie, you are really on your way. How’s the weather? Hugs.

 

[Rick of Rick and Peg]

I’m in Maqueda.. wow what an awesome looking edifice on the hill as you walk in. I wasn’t energetic enough to investigate whether it was open. Is it a castle?

Wikipedia:

The castillo de la vela, also known as the castillo de Maqueda is located on the outskirts of town. Originally of Moorish design, the castle was rebuilt and expanded during the 15th century.[4] It was eventually appropriated by the state, which established a Guardia Civil post within the castle and provided for its future conservation.

The castle is rectangular in shape and sits on two distinct elevations. The castle's protections include 3.5-meter-thick walls, moats on two sides, and a number of circular towers. The exterior of the castle is free to visit, though visitors are not permitted to enter the castle proper.[4]

The castle was declared an artistic historical monument on 3 June 1931.[4]

 

[KinkyOne]

Hi, Annie,
Maybe you already sorted out about the albergue. The number in Laurie's post is one digit incomplete so I'll copy/paste info from Vieiragrino web site:

• Municipal hostel for pilgrims in the School Group: Av. de Peñafiel s/n next to the Cuartel de la Guardia Civil. On school days, go to the staff of the College. Out of hours call the Local Police. Tel: 925 780 092 (24 hours). 6 places
• Town Hall: Plaza Infante Don Juan Manuel, 1. Tel: 925 780 012
• Casa Rural “Plácida”: C/ Lazarillo de Tormes, 9 Tel: 616 042 576 Email: pilarolalla1973@gmail.com
• Bar “El Lazarillo”: Pza Infante Juan Manuel, Tel: 925 780 227. Serves pilgrims.

 

[OzAnnie]

Hi, Annie,
Maybe you already sorted out about the albergue. The number in Laurie's post is one digit incomplete so I'll copy/paste info from Vieiragrino web site:

• Municipal hostel for pilgrims in the School Group: Av. de Peñafiel s/n next to the Cuartel de la Guardia Civil. On school days, go to the staff of the College. Out of hours call the Local Police. Tel: 925 780 092 (24 hours). 6 places
• Town Hall: Plaza Infante Don Juan Manuel, 1. Tel: 925 780 012
• Casa Rural “Plácida”: C/ Lazarillo de Tormes, 9 Tel: 616 042 576 Email: pilarolalla1973@gmail.com
• Bar “El Lazarillo”: Pza Infante Juan Manuel, Tel: 925 780 227. Serves pilgrims.

Kinky
I had tried booking dot com yesterday and there wasn’t anything in this place unless I wanted to spend a fortune. That’s why I went to the school house. I hadn’t realised I had a choice.
I didn’t try to call. Visited turismo ., girl there kept repeating that the policia locale was closed until 8pm. and suggested I walk there (to the school straight away).. I checked police station door and found it open. Lady there called the school ., spoke to the cleaners ., advised them I was on my way.
So I’m there. It’s fine.
I’ve come back down to eat to be met with the same frustration of nothing open. Rather- kitchens aren’t open until 8.30 so I’ve bought some stuff to make myself something in the schoolhouse.
Decided to stop at a bar going back as I haven’t had a glass of wine in 2 days. Enjoying it first. !

Also for tomorrow - it’s another day over 30. I’ve looked on booking dot com for other accommodation part way. Can’t see anything.

I had thought it would be nice to look around here in the morning and ‘mosey along’ stopping part way rather than end of stage. Looks like I have to get moving early as I have to get to San Martín de Valdeiglesias.

Most of you guys who haves walked Levante like longer stages . Having just started and not so much spring in my step I realise I prefer them shorter. 20-25 good for me.

Annie

 

[jsalt]

Decided to stop at a bar going back as I haven’t had a glass of wine in 2 days. Enjoying it first. !

Having just started and not so much spring in my step I realise I prefer them shorter. 20-25 good for me.

Maybe take a taxi the first 10kms? (Easier than calling a taxi for the last 10kms.)

Thinking of you, and wish I was with you sharing that vino!
Jill

 

[peregrina2000]

Annie, I am so sorry about that phone number with a missing digit. Glad Kinky is here to clean up my mistakes.

And yes, taking a taxi to Almorox would be a good way to shorten. Almorox is a nice little town and there is really nothing after that. EXCEPT for beautiful scenery.

 

[OzAnnie]

Maybe take a taxi the first 10kms? (Easier than calling a taxi for the last 10kms.)

wish I was with you sharing that vino!
Jill

It was yuk vino., didn’t finish it. I should have tried your preferred nightcap (a brandy !)

Good idea about a taxi. Lucky I’ve got time. I’ll probably break some of the longer days into 2 where it’s possible.

Annie, I am so sorry about that phone number with a missing digit. Glad Kinky is here to clean up my mistakes.

And yes, taking a taxi to Almorox would be a good way to shorten. Almorox is a nice little town and there is really nothing after that. EXCEPT for beautiful scenery.

You don’t have to apologise. I didn’t ring. The lady at policia picked up her phone & dialled. !

Yes , good thought about possible taxi to Almorox.. I had even though of walking that short distance and staying over but I don’t want to use up all my spare days .. I’ll need them along this Levante.

 

[OzAnnie]

2nd part of day 2 to Escaloña

I came to a halt with a water block short of Escaloña.. Looked too deep and gluggy looking bottom as there is a lot of white clay around. I went up banks just before to see if there was another place to cross. Another attempt thru the brambles didn’t work. I thought no! I don’t want to walk all the way back to Maqueda.. this track started 500m out of Maqueda.
I decided I’d walk thru it so rolled up my trousers.
Then I noticed someone had placed a few branches etc. so a Tarzan act and I was on the other side (dry)

 

[OzAnnie]

Arriving in Escaloña not long before 6pm I was thankful that Laurie hadn’t warned me about the climb up after the bridge. My legs felt like lollies by then.
A couple of pics of the schoolhouse accommodation for those coming later

 

[peregrina2000]

2nd part of day 2 to Escaloña

I came to a halt with a water block short of Escaloña.. Looked too deep and gluggy looking bottom as there is a lot of white clay around. I went up banks just before to see if there was another place to cross. Another attempt thru the brambles didn’t work. I thought no! I don’t want to walk all the way back to Maqueda.. this track started 500m out of Maqueda.
I decided I’d walk thru it so rolled up my trousers.
Then I noticed someone had placed a few branches etc. so a Tarzan act and I was on the other side (dry)

Great feat of daring and bravery! I bet that water was nice and icy.

Well, from San Martín there is a great way to break up the stage. Stay in Cebreros. I remember meeting a pilgrim who spent the night in the hotel there and said it was really top notch. I’m pasting in my notes just in case they might help (feel free to tell me to knock it off but I thought they might help a bit and I’m not sure you can pull up the pdf on your phone). Those Toros de guisando are really a huge national landmark, and they are just sitting there on the side of the road! And I have re-read the notes to make sure there are no missing numbers. My guess is that those crossed out arrows have been repainted unless it’s one of those places where there is repeated vandalism.

Day 22. San Martín de Valdeiglesias-San Bartalomé de los Pinares (33 km with about 2000' elevation gain). This is one of those epic Camino days – like going up to the pass at Fuenfría on the Camino de Madrid, or the Poladura to Pajares stretch on the Salvador, or the Hospitales route on the Primitivo, or the Senda da Remoña through the Picos on the Vadiniense. It is stunningly beautiful, mostly off road and a great cardio workout! The first half till Cebreros has some nice ups and downs through meadows, with a couple of medieval stone bridges. The first 5 or so leaving San Martín are all on pavement, and you visit the Toros de Guisando, celtiberian sculptures from approximately 2nd century B.C., where Isabel la Católica confirmed her control of Castilla. From there you go through wildflower heaven, lots of meadows, little arroyos with babbling water, snow covered mountains visible in two or three directions. Cebreros is a good place either for a coffee break or as a way to break this up into two days. There is a highly recommended hotel, Hotel Castrejon. *** 15E for pilgrims. The town also has a Museum of the Transition, dedicated to Adolfo Suárez, the first democratically elected prime minister after Franco’s era. He is from Cebreros.

*** Beware of crossed out arrows. There is one spot before you get to Cebreros, after you have done a few ups and downs, where you cross the national highway. At that point, the obvious thing to do is to cross the highway and continue on the lovely off-road path you have been on. That is what you SHOULD do. But someone has crossed out the arrows pointing that way and has painted at least four very bright yellow arrows trying to get you to walk alongside the national highway. This would be a very bad idea, it will take you way far away from Cebreros. I don’t know who painted these arrows but you should ignore them.

From Cebreros to San Bartalomé is the high mountain part of the walk. Meadows, forests, fields of flowers, it’s simply GREAT. The last 10 kms or so the path parallels (but is not on) a road, but there is minimal traffic and you just can’t let it detract from your enjoyment. There is a half hour or so on the shoulder of the road, but it seems that there have been re-routings to get pilgrims off the road, because the guide describes a lot longer stage on asphalt than we had. The entrance into town is through some wild boulder country. There is an albergue in the medical center behind the church (key from alcadesa in ayuntamiento or at Bar Central). Albergue has 4 beds, clean, showers across the street. I stayed in the Hostal El Patio, 20 euros. Decent food there.

 

[OzAnnie]

Thanks Laurie
I appreciate it a lot. That’s definitely a stage I’ll split because I can. And a towel again. Just got out of this shower.. good hot water but no curtain etc and tiny shower stall. Probably will be fine when it’s warmer but using my towel (that i cut in half because it took too much room. It’s just not a real towel.
So I’m leaving tomorrow to see how I feel. Overnight - legs heal so well. I didn’t think I’d ever walk again after yesterday. It’s magic !
Yesterday (my Fitbit recorded 61,000 + steps while today only 45700 +
Maybe I’ll get away early. If not I’ll see if the town has a taxi to take me to Almorox.

Today was sooo green. Just beautiful.,
If walking in summer there would be little shade from sun though. Lots of open fields ., crops etc. few trees in these last 2 days.

 

[KinkyOne]

Arriving in Escaloña not long before 6pm I was thankful that Laurie hadn’t warned me about the climb up after the bridge. My legs felt like lollies by then.
A couple of pics of the schoolhouse accommodation for those coming later

Hahaha, that's a splurge compared to Almonacid de Toledo changing room at the communal swimming pool

Unless you're a great afficionado of proteins (in cockroaches)

 

[C clearly]

Then I noticed someone had placed a few branches etc. so a Tarzan act and I was on the other side (dry)

That is what I love most about walking the camino. It is a time for an old woman like me to forget the years and take on the low-risk but potentially wet/dirty challenges that children enjoy but we stop doing, for some reason.

Overnight - legs heal so well. I didn’t think I’d ever walk again after yesterday. It’s magic !

That is always so amazing!

 

[OzAnnie]

I’ve been taking these little sachets (under the tongue) or just dissolve in your mouth than a drink of water.
I’m sure they help with the muscles. Convincing myself anyway. Power of positive thinking!

 

[KinkyOne]

I’ve been taking these little sachets (under the tongue) or just dissolve in your mouth than a drink of water.
I’m sure they help with the muscles. Convincing myself anyway. Power of positive thinking!

Yup, magnesium tablets works well. Bananas also have a lot of it.

BC

 

[OzAnnie]

Yup, magnesium tablets works well. Bananas also have a lot of it.

BC

Just had a banana too with my breakfast !!
Note those sachets in the pic also have potassium and vitamin c

 

[AJGuillaume]

You're a legend Annie!
Buen Camino!

 

[Kanga]

Enjoying your camino Annie! Keep on writing for us envious armchair walkers.

 

[Donna Sch]

Stop in Cebreros. Lovely day if you break it up and Cebreros is a nice wee town to stay in especially after the climb at the end. And there is a lot of elevation if you continue which is fine but not my idea of fun at all if you try to cram it all into one day. If you like starting super early and having a very long day...go for it. If you want to protect your legs a little, break it up.

And I recognise that creek! The only time the other half asked to borrow one of my poles. And yes, we just got across without wet feet. This is the deepest water we came across so you should be okay from here.

 

[OzAnnie]

Stop in Cebreros. Lovely day if you break it up and Cebreros is a nice wee town to stay in especially after the climb at the end. And there is a lot of elevation if you continue which is fine but not my idea of fun at all if you try to cram it all into one day. If you like starting super early and having a very long day...go for it. If you want to protect your legs a little, break it up.

And I recognise that creek! The only time the other half asked to borrow one of my poles. And yes, we just got across without wet feet. This is the deepest water we came across so you should be okay from here.

Thanks Donna
I did look at your thread back at Madrid airport but so much info - it takes time ‘on the hop’.
I am on way to Cebreros now. Laurie has been ‘helping ‘ me in pm with suggestions too. And going a lot further than that. I’m stopping there and 2 stops for me to Ávila. (I’ve got to post day 3 yet ).
It will be a doubler.

Edit: I just changed the sentence above Donna. No way am I walking that distance to Ávila in one day. Tomorrow I will stop in San Bartolomé !’

 

[OzAnnie]

You're a legend Annie!
Buen Camino!

Yes - agewise !! I agree.

 

[OzAnnie]

Day 3 Escaloña - San Martín de Valdeiglesias
This was going to be another stage over 31k. So I opted to get a taxi for first 8k to Almorox cost10 euros and although I was there in a blink of an eye - it probably was best for me.
I hadn’t started early as i was expecting a short walk. The trail was a fairy tale walk amidst flowers and hills and boulders as you gained elevation .
It was doable and although huffing and puffing I thought ‘this is great stuff’. Views are magnificent.
I sat and snacked on supplies etc. and chilled out literally. Not long after that ., I hit the ski slopes .. boy, mood swings from tiptoeing thru the tulips very quickly changed to ‘I’m drying’ .. it doesn’t take much! Lol . It seemed like surface had been prepared/graded... for quad biking /off road biking of some sort. It was tiring. Down and up - down and up.

After that ., it continued in my opinion up all the way to San Martín de Valdeiglesias... I was a sorry sight trying to find an open bar for a drink. Great tapas !!

Now - silly me; had overlooked the fact that it was Saturday/ & no booking. - so with Laurie’s help listing places to call - I found all completo.
I did find a room (last one on booking dot com) an apartment - hacienda Coracera.. 60 euros but no choice. It was huge and king + size bed but lighting was dim.

The result of all the climbing was a real workout in my legs. I can only recall 2 other times when I’ve been woken after approximately an hours sleep with the unbearable pain of lactic acidosis..
I’m not familiar with the science but it hurts!!!
The climb on that stage was almost double (measured in ‘fitbit’ floors climbed) to the day before.
On the walk down through trees etc before SMdeV a herd of goats came to meet me. I felt like I was ‘parting the waters ‘ as I walked into them. They split and kept following my moves. Shepherd and older dogs were some ways back
I haven’t met any other pilgrims but never expected to. I’ve seen the occasional shoe print but probably local walkers.

 

[OzAnnie]

Day 4 - San Martín de Valdeiglesias- Cebreros 17.2k

This was more in my acceptable klms!!
Leaving late again as breakfast wasn’t available until after 8.30am and then I muddled about (because that’s me). I left at 10am

The way out was on the carretera.. it felt like a dream as it was flat !! At that point I felt like a convert to highways. Not really but it is easier.

When I came to where you move off the N403 by crossing the road - there is one of those metre high blue Peregrino signs indicating next road right. ‘It’ takes you back toward the AV502, wrong; so I retraced steps back to stop sign and the yellow arrows were noticeable then; to continue a little longer on the N403 and head off onto a grassy rocky track (very nice ). But they could have put that Big Blue pilgrim sign a bit closer to the real track!

Edit: after that point with the sign; the next section must be cared for by another group as they have been busy with the yellow paint. No need to look at maps all the way to Cebreros.. clearly signed all the way.

Initially I had looked at the Av502 highway sign which read I think only 11klms to Cebreros from there. But on road. The track/trail wound through meadows, streams boulders etc. and missed any villages that may have been enroute.
The last section was a huffer and puffer moreso towards the end.
Some lovely Román bridges to cross below the town.

The best bit was arriving to town at a time when food was available. So first thing. Eat.
Now : yesterday evening Laurie had ooked ahead at what was available. She mentioned some of the prices were high and El Castrejon had a group arriving and at that point couldn’t guarantee a bed but suggested I drop by today when I arrive and he might be able to squeeze me in.

well I have to show you a pic of my ‘squeeze’.
Huge room.,( with a bath and bidet (not in pic) Wifi and breakfast included from good time of 7.30am. Price 35euros is higher than mentioned earlier in this thread but that may have been a different room type and inclusions etc.
I’m very happy.
Also - I’ve booked for tomorrow night (San Bartalomé ) at El Patio. 25euros. Which has been mentioned by a few previous Levante pilgrims.

 

[gracethepilgrim]

Annie, you’re doing great and Laurie and the gang are so helpful.
Keep the energy up, and I’m pleased you took a wee taxi ride to shorten your long day.
I was thinking of giving caminos a miss this year (after Madrid and Mozarabe last year) but now I’m keen to finish my aborted Levante from Toledo. Maybe in September?
Bless, Grace

 

[laineylainey]

Just caught up with your journey Annie.
Here's hoping for a decent glass of wine soon xx

 

[peregrina2000]

Hi, Annie,
Hope your day was great. Do you have pics you could post of the walk to Cebreros, and today's walk up to San Bartalomé? The last part of the walk through all that lunar-type landscape was weird and fun.

I always felt bad that I spilled my water bottle all over the bed of the pensión where you are going to stay. There was no one around when I left, but I did take off the sheets and leave a note to reassure them that this was just water. And tried to dry it up some with towels. Since it was 7 years ago, they are unlikely to remember me, and if they did, your telling them the anecdote might not get you the same warm welcome it got you in Cebreros!

 

[OzAnnie]

Day 5. Cebreros- San Bartalomé de Pinares

Last nights group staying at el castrejon were in the breakfast area when i came down at 7.30am. It was like a bull fight trying to move ; let alone get a seat. So it was squash in and have a bite and a lukewarm coffee and get ‘outa-there!’
Although todays route shows as 14.9klm; it is a big climb. You get straight into it leaving Cebreros.
When it’s like this ; I feel that the ‘goalposts ‘ keep moving. Lol. It is so much slower than flat.
Lots of photo ops which gives one a chance to recover ... signing is very good - trail takes you ‘over the mountain ‘ and the freezing headwind meant I needed my face covered and gloves .. a bit of a nuisance taking them off to take pictures.
Cows horses etc.
I’m looking at what pics to add and must say they look very ‘ordinary ‘ so I haven’t captured what I saw. It was a fantastic walk (especially if you like climbs). It looks much much better in real-time.

With all the elevation and stops I only made 3k /hr.
Coming down into San Bartolomé de pinares is very steep. I kept thinking; ‘what goes down must go up tomorrow. ‘.
I am staying at. El patio.
Had the menu del día which was passable and happy that it wasn’t too much food.

Owner is coughing like you wouldn’t believe - it concerned me as she was bringing out my food.
Bar man is also spluttering- everyone is watching the tv news with constant updates ..
When I walked into town - it felt so abandoned; I was imagining everyone locked up in their homes in case strangers walking through town may be bringing something with them. It’s a weird feeling.
I didn’t check out the Albergue here in town as I’d booked el patio. Which is e25 for single incl brkfst if I haven’t already quoted it. . My room is very cold. I had a short siesta after lunch and put extra blankets on bed. Still cold. I think it’s the stone buildings. I’ve put my sleeping bag in between blankets ready for tonight. This bunny likes to be warm.
I’ve come downstairs dressed in double what I had on today walking in the freezing wind.

Also - I’ve adjusted my thoughts for Ávila and am staying 2 nights (even though I have visited before ). It will be nice wander around slowly . I have booked where Donna & Barry stayed : Palacio de Monjaraz. I’d booked Tuesday / on booking E31 incl breakfast. Today I booked Wednesday also on booking and price for that day is e27.90 incl brkfast .

In San Bartolomé tonight ., No others staying here. A handful of locals watching tv.

 

[Anniesantiago]

I know what you mean about the coughing. Every time I hear a cough or sneeze I’m outta there! Joe laughs but I notice he follows me.

 

[MickMac]

Day 5. Cebreros- San Bartalomé de Pinares

Last nights group staying at el castrejon were in the breakfast area when i came down at 7.30am. It was like a bull fight trying to move ; let alone get a seat. So it was squash in and have a bite and a lukewarm coffee and get ‘outa-there!’
Although todays route shows as 14.9klm; it is a big climb. You get straight into it leaving Cebreros.
When it’s like this ; I feel that the ‘goalposts ‘ keep moving. Lol. It is so much slower than flat.
Lots of photo ops which gives one a chance to recover ... signing is very good - trail takes you ‘over the mountain ‘ and the freezing headwind meant I needed my face covered and gloves .. a bit of a nuisance taking them off to take pictures.
Cows horses etc.
I’m looking at what pics to add and must say they look very ‘ordinary ‘ so I haven’t captured what I saw. It was a fantastic walk (especially if you like climbs). It looks much much better in real-time.

With all the elevation and stops I only made 3k /hr.
Coming down into San Bartolomé de pinares is very steep. I kept thinking; ‘what goes down must go up tomorrow. ‘.
I am staying at. El patio.
Had the menu del día which was passable and happy that it wasn’t too much food.

Owner is coughing like you wouldn’t believe - it concerned me as she was bringing out my food.
Bar man is also spluttering- everyone is watching the tv news with constant updates ..
When I walked into town - it felt so abandoned; I was imagining everyone locked up in their homes in case strangers walking through town may be bringing something with them. It’s a weird feeling.
I didn’t check out the Albergue here in town as I’d booked el patio. Which is e25 for single incl brkfst if I haven’t already quoted it. . My room is very cold. I had a short siesta after lunch and put extra blankets on bed. Still cold. I think it’s the stone buildings. I’ve put my sleeping bag in between blankets ready for tonight. This bunny likes to be warm.
I’ve come downstairs dressed in double what I had on today walking in the freezing wind.

Also - I’ve adjusted my thoughts for Ávila and am staying 2 nights (even though I have visited before ). It will be nice wander around slowly . I have booked where Donna & Barry stayed : Palacio de Monjaraz. I’d booked Tuesday / on booking E31 incl breakfast. Today I booked Wednesday also on booking and price for that day is e27.90 incl brkfast .

In San Bartolomé tonight ., No others staying here. A handful of locals watching tv.

That bull is looking at you very strangely Annie be careful

 

[peregrina2000]

Beautiful pictures, Annie, I think that this is another one of those caminos where the tracks don’t always reflect the most current off-road efforts made by camino associations. If the marking is good, I always go with the arrows when my GPS tracks diverge.

Hope you were warm last night.

Great idea about staying an extra night in Ávila. Who can tire of walking around those walls. The view back over the city from the camino’s exit from town is really something. I hope they have managed to find a work-around for what was the Avila exit when I walked. It was extremely dangerous, requiring you to cut across the entrance to the superhighway. Apparently there was a landowner who was resisting efforts to let pilgrims cross his land, but this was years ago and I hope it has changed!

So good to hear from you, buen camino, Laurie

 

[MickMac]

That bull is looking at you very strangely Annie be careful

Annie.

Keep an eye on your European flights Annie new eu directives under consideration at moment re cancellations

 

[OzAnnie]

Hi Michael @MickMac Yes, I try not to panic but I’m watching the threads . Difficult to keep up.
Ready to pull the plug if needed. Hopefully not .
Can you send me a pm explaining exactly what you mean though.

 

[NorthernLight]

On a positive note, sneezing is not one of the common symptoms. A dry cough, yes.

 

[OzAnnie]

Day 6 San Bartolomé de Pinares - Ávila
I was ready early for take-off Conchi had said 7.30am would be ok She was there. She wasn’t coughing this morning!!
I notice that she has a hearing problem and also uses a strong magnifying glass to read documents like my passport .
This morning , I showed her the profile I had ahead to walk ; and then, in walked a lady called Carmen who was then heading to Ávila .. she offered me a lift but although I was happy to get a lift to the high point above El Herradón., I really wanted to walk. No problem she said.
So ‘Annie got help again’. She wouldn’t accept my offer to pay, waving it away as she was going anyway ..
Then the walk which still had little up to start but the heavy lifting had been taken away ! Phew.. I had time on my side and could meander., waffle about talking to the cows etc. I’ve tried to get more pics for Laurie of the lunar landscape and even some ‘Moo(n) cows. Even some highland kews .
I was even reminded more of the moon ‘the eagle has landed ‘ quote; as I have seen a number of eagles ; both today and yesterday.

I had a coffee stop in the town before Ávila called Tornadizos de Ávila. The lady there gave me a sweet gift. A blue wristband with both the name of the village and ‘Camino de Levante ‘
I had a nice chat with here. They all feel very safe from the goings on in other parts of the world as they are away from everything.

The piece de resistance was arriving at my accommodation. Palacio de Monjaraz. So impressed. Very close to plaza in old town and near cathedral. Beautiful room (pic below ) - I’m glad I decided to change my booking to 2 days.
Price includes breakfast and first night thru booking for single is E31 second night was E27.90. Same room etc. comfortable bed (I tested it). Also a balcony ..(. with a nice view ).’single rate but definitely not a pokey single room!)

The pic from maps me shows the light blue tracks which are those of the amigos(thanks Josefus ). and which I walked today and the brown tracks are those of the Dutch Assoc.

 

[gracethepilgrim]

Annie, I’m pleased you’re enjoying ‘slow camino’ and enjoying Avila. I’m sure you’ll have the opportunity to try out a couple of bars/wines. Do report back

 

[VNwalking]

Avila!!!
Ohhhh - enjoy, Annie!

Reading of you being in Avila and @Anniesantiago being in Merida lightens the otherwise heavier news of the day.

 

[peregrina2000]

Are you getting your kms in by walking along the top of the walls Annie? Or are you feasting on some traditional meal in a charming restaurant? Or something completely different?

I am pretty sure you don’t share my fascination with all things romanesque, but if you are strolling around the walls, there is a beautiful romanesque church right outside the walls, the Basilica of San Vicente. I remember there is a pretty gruesome story involving St. Vincent’s martyrdom on that site and a snake coming out of the rocks to kill someone who laughed at the killing, but even so, the portico is really beautiful.

 

[OzAnnie]

I was on the tower while on the wall which had sign ‘basilica San Vicente. I assumed it was the one outside that I was facing. Also - I tend to give up a little as I find most churches etc closed when I walk past. As was the church of Santiago coming in yesterday. Also I’ll return to the cathedral again. Sign said 10am. I was there 2 minutes after and it was closed.
The thing is when I exited the wall. I was away from anything I recognised and needed my maps to find my way back to plaza area.
I ate yesterday at a Taberna just after you enter the walls. I figured the menu Del día would be less $’s away from centre. It was e10 but I couldn’t have a blanco. I had to have the Tinto .. it was ok - I had been having some not so good ; so had reverted to white. But it seems the red in Ávila is up to std. !!!

I saw a restaurant last night ‘Rincon’ beside the plaza. (Close by my hotel too) and thought maybe this was a place to try today .. ?

Annie

 

[peregrina2000]

I’m no expert, but I think the Avila cathedral is frequently overlooked because of the obvious attraction of the walls. But I remember the doorway having some kind of scary scaly figures that were really something to look at. And the inside has some absolutely beautiful spots, just in my opinion of course.

 

[OzAnnie]

I did take a photo of the door this morning. I’m heading back there now - maybe I can see inside.
The weather is glorious. 23c. (74f). Blue sky !

 

[alipilgrim]

I second the suggestion to see the Basilica San Vincente, I thought it was marvelous.

 

[OzAnnie]

It was a good day! My day 7 - a rest day in Ávila.
I’ve visited the cathedral - wow. It’s great. You need a ticket.

‘Prices below are all for seniors/jubilados’. Cathedral E5
Basilica San Vicente. E2.20
I checked out main section of the wall this morning and later today walked the smaller section. Ticket for wall E3.50 is valid for 2 days.

Also enjoyed the menu Del día at El Rincón E10.
I really mmmm’d the Primero A vegetable plate.
I won’t bore you with more pictures.

Even had time to send 2 postcards home to grandchildren.. correos is near the cathedral.

Annie

 

[KinkyOne]

Did you have any problems finding mailboxes?

I couldn't find any and then they described them to me (those on/in the walls of the post office)

 

[OzAnnie]

Did you have any problems finding mailboxes?

I couldn't find any and then they described them to me (those on/in the walls of the post office)

I didn’t have to find them. Man at desk asked what I was after : 2 international stamps for the postcards to Australia pls. Paid him. He put the stamps on the postcards and put them in the ‘out ‘ section. Gracias.
You just don’t look old enough !

Annie

 

[jsalt]

I am so enjoying your posts, Annie, and so glad that you found another camino to walk after the Via Francigena was no longer an option. Are there no albergues to stay at on this route? Or are you just avoiding them? I see that you are staying at some really great budget places.

 

[OzAnnie]

I am so enjoying your posts, Annie, and so glad that you found another camino to walk after the Via Francigena was no longer an option. Are there no albergues to stay at on this route? Or are you just avoiding them? I see that you are staying at some really great budget places.

I have tried Albergues on this route. On day 1 and 2 Jill.
I think the next day was a Saturday and I got caught without a booking and no Albergue.
Tomorrow in Gotarrendura I’m heading for the Albergue. I think there are quite a few on this route. There is one also here in Ávila but if you want to stay 2 nights you’d have to move on anyway. Very happy with this Hotel.
It will be all downhill from here ,, lol.
The heating has been on here in hotel automatically..I’ve managed to dry laundry without any problem. Spacious and warm. . rate is excellent value

 

[KinkyOne]

True that you can stay in Avila (municipal) albergue for one night only but I tried and succeeded in persuading hospitalero to let me stay two nights (in 2015) because the albergue was empty anyway. So you can always try

In Gotarrendura albergue also have a turistico part which is a bit more expensive but offers more comfort although I was completely OK with regular one. Maybe just a hint to call ahead hospitaler@ because the bar/restaurant is reportedly closed and there would be nowhere to go to wait except to sit on the curb

Buen Camino, Annie!

 

[OzAnnie]

True that you can stay in Avila (municipal) albergue for one night only but I tried and succeeded in persuading hospitalero to let me stay two nights (in 2015) because the albergue was empty anyway. So you can always try

In Gotarrendura albergue also have a turistico part which is a bit more expensive but offers more comfort although I was completely OK with regular one. Maybe just a hint to call ahead hospitaler@ because the bar/restaurant is reportedly closed and there would be nowhere to go to wait except to sit on the curb

Buen Camino, Annie!

Already have the advice from Laurie / arrive at Ayuntamiento in main square to sort out key etc. if I arrive later than 3pm to call 615 65 8068
Rest/bar will be open.

That’s what I’m shooting for. (I’ve sat on many curbs in my day, lol )

Thanks Kinkie for looking out.
Annie

 

[dougfitz]

I am only just catching up with your journey. All the best.

 

[Saint Mike II]

G'Day Annie - some great photos, I see what you mean about a moon scape. Laurie will be really pleased. Love the photo of the cow/bull with the one horn hanging down. A real special Buen Camino.

 

[Donna Sch]

Glad you liked the hotel Annie! We got the most hideous day when we walked to Gotarrendura but the walk itself was great. The albergue there is great. The bar was closed last year so if someone has reopened it, that's fantastic.

 

[OzAnnie]

Tks.
It was good and bad. I’m 71 and my legs are really feeling it. Had the lactic acidosis last night. It’s 4.30am and still sore. Not sure how today will roll out. Just seeing all the notifications of Albergue closures. A (very poor) pilgrim turned up here last night also. First person I’ve had to chat with since starting He’s got zero money and just as well I brought supplies with me. Nothing at all in the town open. . Hoping to find a coffee 4-6 kms out come morning. Not sure how far I can walk tho.

Looks like I may need to look into my arrangements before I’m locked in here. Even mods and Ivar are recommending not to walk camino
Annie

 

[KinkyOne]

Tks.
It was good and bad. I’m 71 and my legs are really feeling it. Had the lastic acidosis last night. It’s 4.30am and still sore. Not sure how today will roll out. Just seeing all the notifications of Albergue closures. A (very poor) pilgrim turned up here last night also. First person I’ve had to chat with since starting He’s got zero money and just as well I brought supplies with me. Nothing at all in the town open. . Hoping to find a coffee 4-6 kms out come morning. Not sure how far I can walk tho.

Looks like I may need to look into my arrangements before I’m locked in here. Even mods and Ivar are recommending not to walk camino
Annie

You're in Gotarrendura today, Annie?

 

[OzAnnie]

You're in Gotarrendura today, Annie?

That was last night 12 March. No shops open. Guy who owned the bar took off. Nothing opened. Had to use frypan to boil water for a cuppa. I had tea bags and shared my supplies.
Yoli gave my fellow pilgrim (he arrived 30 mins after me) a ltr milk and some pan but he drank it all. I had a cola cao to share this morning but no milk. Tsk tsk.
Today we are now at Villanueva enroute Arévalo..
maybe now I will contact travel agent at home and go home. Crazy walking to Santiago ??? As I’m feeling the message coming thru here ? To stop.

So sad. The other pilgrim will try to bus back to a brother in Valencia ( he hasnt been talking to this brother for a long time and us actually homeless ). I will help him with busfare as he has no money.

It will all work out.
Annie.

 

[MickMac]

That was last night 12 March. No shops open. Guy who owned the bar took off. Nothing opened. Had to use frypan to boil water for a cuppa. I had tea bags and shared my supplies.
Yoli gave my fellow pilgrim (he arrived 30 mins after me) a ltr milk and some pan but he drank it all. I had a cola cao to share this morning but no milk. Tsk tsk.
Today we are now at Villanueva enroute Arévalo..
maybe now I will contact travel agent at home and go home. Crazy walking to Santiago ??? As I’m feeling the message coming thru here ? To stop.

So sad. The other pilgrim will try to bus back to a brother in Valencia ( he hasnt been talking to this brother for a long time and us actually homeless ). I will help him with busfare as he has no money.

It will all work out.
Annie.

Take care Annie and be safe, we are all with you in our thoughts and prayers.

Buen Camino.

 

[OzAnnie]

Decision made - too much spiralling out for me..
On bus now back to Madrid. Arrive there around 5pm. Will find somewhere to stay once there.

I’ve sent email to travel agent in Australia to check possibilities of earlier flights home. It will cost I know but at least I’ll be back and not wondering about what will close next.

It’s after midnight there so I won’t be expecting a reply for some time.

Hope I’ll hear tomorrow though.

Annie

 

[Dancing Rain]

Thinking of you Annie

 

[VNwalking]

Dear Annie. So sorriy to read this.
But you are doing the right thing.
Safe journey home, and may you have stay healthy....

 

[OzAnnie]

Dear Annie. So sorriy to read this.
But you are doing the right thing.
Safe journey home, and may you have stay healthy....

Thanks VN. But reading the very recent closure posts - I hope I can get flight soon. I better get to supermarket tonight too from reading other posts about restrictions in Madrid.

I’ll let you know when I’ve got more info
X Annie

 

[NorthernLight]

Perhaps if travel agent is too slow, you can also call the airline directly and see if they will change your flights?

 

[OzAnnie]

Perhaps if travel agent is too slow, you can also call the airline directly and see if they will change your flights?

Good thought. I will follow up when in Madrid.

Thanks
Annie

 

[peregrina2000]

Just seeing this, Annie. So you can disregard my worried PM. You did what you could and had some good camino moments, this little snippet will just have to tide you over till the world returns to normal (and I hope that the underlying assumption there is realistic). Safe travels, amiga.

 

[jsalt]

to check possibilities of earlier flights home

Hey, Annie! What must be, must be. Wishing you a good trip home. A year ago I did the same (different situation), changed my flight and 2 days later I was back home. It was the best decision I made in the circumstances ❤.

 

[Magwood]

Have enjoyed your camino Annie. Wishing you a safe journey home. Stay safe x

 

[Josefus]

Annie,
was a pleasure to be (mentally) with you. Wish you a safe homecoming.

¡Ultreia!

 

[jsalt]

Good thought. I will follow up when in Madrid.

If the travel agent booked the ticket, only they can change it.

Check the penalties.

When I returned home early, the airline tried to issue a new ticket (at a huge cost).

My husband persevered (by phone) and after an hour, managed to get my RETURN flight CHANGED, and he paid ONLY THE PENALTY FEE.

Good luck.

 

[OzAnnie]

Thanks Jill
During the night here ., I’m expecting that Oz will be awake and something might be happening.
I believe that airline I was to return home on (Qatar) are still flying out each day from Madrid to Sydney Via Doha. So hopefully I may get a seat arranged in 24/48 hrs. Hoping anyway.

 

[AJGuillaume]

Hello Annie,
In case you need this, here are Qatar Airways contact details in Spain.
Safe travels back home!
Andrew and Rachel

 

[OzAnnie]

Just paid au$407. Which I’m happy with. Expected to pay more.
Leaves madrid 3.15pm. 14/3/20
8 hrs (boo hoo) transit in Doha. (Beggars can’t be choosers ) but a long transit sure makes a long haul ‘looooong’.

- arrives Sydney approx 7am Monday morning. 16/3/20

Almost midnight here. Will try for some ‘ horizontal rest while I can ).
I’ll be looking forward to home bed now that decision has been made
Annie

 

[Molly Cassidy]

Just paid au$407. Which I’m happy with. Expected to pay more.
Leaves madrid 3.15pm. 14/3/20
8 hrs (boo hoo) transit in Doha. (Beggars can’t be choosers ) but a long transit sure makes a long haul ‘looooong’.

- arrives Sydney approx 7am Monday morning. 16/3/20

Almost midnight here. Will try for some ‘ horizontal rest while I can ).
I’ll be looking forward to home bed now that decision has been made
Annie

Well done and good luck.

 

[NorthernLight]

Get some sleep, have a stroll around town if possible, have a potato tortilla and safe journeys home!

 

[AJGuillaume]

Just paid au$407. Which I’m happy with. Expected to pay more.
Leaves madrid 3.15pm. 14/3/20
8 hrs (boo hoo) transit in Doha. (Beggars can’t be choosers ) but a long transit sure makes a long haul ‘looooong’.

- arrives Sydney approx 7am Monday morning. 16/3/20

Almost midnight here. Will try for some ‘ horizontal rest while I can ).
I’ll be looking forward to home bed now that decision has been made
Annie

That's a good outcome, Annie.
Now that the worry has been lifted, enjoy some rest, and safe travels home.
Andrew and Rachel

 

[Bala]

Just paid au$407. Which I’m happy with. Expected to pay more.
Leaves madrid 3.15pm. 14/3/20
8 hrs (boo hoo) transit in Doha. (Beggars can’t be choosers ) but a long transit sure makes a long haul ‘looooong’.

- arrives Sydney approx 7am Monday morning. 16/3/20

Almost midnight here. Will try for some ‘ horizontal rest while I can ).
I’ll be looking forward to home bed now that decision has been made
Annie

Annie, since you were already on Qatar, you may already know this, but they used offer cheap day rooms for long layovers. (At least they did when we flew them a few years back). Never have a bed and shower felt so good!! It's worth looking in to, especially if you can arrange it before you leave Madrid. Regardless, I'm glad you were able to get a flight. Safe travels to you.

 

[peregrina2000]

Get some sleep, have a stroll around town if possible, have a potato tortilla and safe journeys home!

Annie told me that bars and restaurants are all closed, but the clerk at her hotel sent her to a little shop where she was able to find some food and liquid refreshment.

 

[Anniesantiago]

Just paid au$407. Which I’m happy with. Expected to pay more.
Leaves madrid 3.15pm. 14/3/20
Almost midnight here. Will try for some ‘ horizontal rest while I can ).
I’ll be looking forward to home bed now that decision has been made
Annie

We share your sense of relief but you were smartEr than we were. We have 7 hours to go before our flight and are struggling to stay awake. We should have gotten a hotel here. Three chairs in a row make for rough sleep! . Happy it all worked out and you are homeward bound. Safe travels Annie!

 

[Kanga]

See you back in Sydney, Annie. Well, assuming we are not all in isolation! So sorry you had to come home early, but glad the uncertainty if over. Hope the flight home is uneventful.

 

[Saint Mike II]

G'Day Annie - so glad to read that you will be able to get out of Spain and home on Monday. Looks like you might have to self isolate at home on arrival. All the best.

 

[OzAnnie]

It was short but sweet. Great to at least taste the Levante.
Quite prepared and ok with self isolation..

Thankyou everyone
Annie

 

[P Rat]

Safe travels back home Annie, stay healthy! Lots of love from Bne

 

[OzAnnie]

Madrid airport. Today I’ve seen approx 75% travellers with face masks. I had brought 3 with me ‘for this time ‘. I gave one to Jakob when we were travelling on bus to Madrid. This morning at the airport I wrapped my backpack to check in and taped it to death. It was then I realised the masks were securely taped in.

Never mind. - I’ll manage. I doubt the pharmacist will sell them but I’ll try. I have in my backpack a buff which could do the trick and a sleeping mask.

I was expecting to get my first coffee at the airport on arrival but even Macdonald is cordoned off with tape. Strange to see maccas out of action.
The duty free after you go thru immigration was similarly sectioned off.
There are places to buy light food in near gates though and small bottles of wine. I see coffee cups in use - do maybe through the gates it’s ok to see it.

I did hear an announcement before going across on the train to satellite terminal S
To American travellers - due to flying restrictions : it was requested they be at the gate 2 hrs before departure. Wow. (It take extra time to get the connecting train the TS


Not long now for me unless delayed.
Annie

 

[ranthr]

Good to see that you are going home. Have a nice flight!

 

[lovingkindness]

I've enjoyed following your adventure, @OzAnnie. Thanks for sharing it.

Cheers
Lovingkindness

 

[Magwood]

Safe journey Annie. Take care x

 

[Rick M]

Yours, and the odysseys of many others during this time is reminiscent of my own journey home from Boston after 9/11 when the USA went into a wary shut down. All I can say is that you will get home, you will have a story to tell, and the feeling when your head finally hits the pillow in your own bed will stay with you forever.