Hello pilgrims,
We highly recommend the alternate route out of Villafranca for its scenic beauty and fields of chestnut, lavender, and wildflowers in the spring. When we walked it yesterday, April 6, we identified 12 different species of butterflies and 26 different species of wildflowers.
Though more strenuous than the traditional route along the road, there is an incredible respite in the small farming town of Padela, immediately before descending back to rejoin the traditional route at Trabadelo. The additional length of the alternative route is less than 3 km, though the climbing does make it a longer day.
In Padela, you MUST stop at the Albergue Lamas, spectacularly set overlooking the valley and run by a small farming family with farm dogs, cats, grandmother, and granddaughter. Miguel and his wife make their own Spanish red wine from their own vineyard grapes and it may be one of best wines we have ever tasted.
The local farming population all stopped in for lunch while we were there, and we also enjoyed vegetables and potatoes that were grown on the farm with an incredible homemade garlic aïoli. The cured ham that we had with our sandwiches also was locally produced.
This little gem does not appear to get much traffic because it is so far off the beaten path and takes effort to reach. However, we can confirm that it is well worth the effort and indeed has been the best meal and social experience that we have yet had along the Camino.
James Li