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On the Camino: One day at a time, one photo at a time...

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Waterfalls on the river Barosa (Cascadas del Río Barosa). Not far from Caldas de Ries.
This day was very crowded, a lot of people. They sang (yes, funny old women), laughed, talked loudly. They went right to Caldas, and we turned to the waterfalls. And we did not regret that our path has become longer. 11 July, 2019
 
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gschmidl said:
I think it had rained a little the weeks before.
Click to expand...
Ok, everyone.
Bring on the mud photos - and all those images of times that were very different from our rosy memories of the Camino on a sunny pleasant day. That way we won't feel so sorry for ourselves.

In that vein, here is one part of a very wet first day on the Vasco; I did not take any photos of the really bad spots, when it was hosing down rain - nor in the next day which was also torrential. There was one spot that was so bad that I felt like laughing it was so 'interesting' - a steep hill that had turned into a stony stream.
.
 
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VNwalking said:
Ok, everyone.
Bring on the mud photos - and all those images of times that were very different from our rosy memories of the Camino on a sunny pleasant day. That way we won't feel so sorry for ourselves.
Click to expand...

In France, and this is near Castet-Arrouy on the Voie du Puy, they offered you places where you could clean your shoes

 
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Since @VNwalking wants today's daily picture to involve mud I will jump ahead on my camino to this spot on the Aragonese near Lumbier. This does not look too bad but the sheep are now in their pasture. They walked uphill on the camino to get there. The morning's rainwater went downhill on the camino. I went uphill on the camino. The mud had been churned up by the feet of all those sheep. And, if you have encountered sheep on your travels, you know that they leave droppings. Lots of sheep, lots of droppings.



Link to photos on Flickr taken near 42.650,-1.382

Actually it wasn't the worst mud I had to walk through but I don't have any pictures of that section worth showing.
 
I don't know that I've included a sunrise photo here yet. I took a lot of sunrise photos on my caminos. This photo, taken shortly before walking through Moratinos (42°21'37.0"N 4°54'55.0"W) on my walk from Ledigos to Sahagun, is one of my favourites.

I don't have a mud photo. I never needed to use my rain gear on the entire 2016 Camino and didn't take any mud photos in 2018.
 
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VNwalking said:
Ok, everyone.
Bring on the mud photos - and all those images of times that were very different from our rosy memories of the Camino on a sunny pleasant day. That way we won't feel so sorry for ourselves.
Click to expand...

Sure! This was a day before the other photo, between Cudeiro and Cea.

 
What is it about the Norte that gives me vertigo?
Goats obviously don't mind in the least.

Well, somehow images and stories of running water, pools of mud, and sheep droppings have not dampened my enthusiasm for the idea of walking a camino. Anyway, a photo cannot capture that feeling when you're wet to the skin, the sleet is collecting on the parka between the pack and the back of your neck, and the wind is so strong that it's blowing the upwind pole in front of your feet and you almost do a face-plant.
But here is what the cold sort of looks like:
 
@VNwalking and I have played photograph games before on the forum. So, picked to somewhat match her latest, here I again present another out of order favorite photo from my Caminos Catalan and Aragonese.

As you can see I'm actually on the Francés now. I had a day on it going in the reverse direction to Pamplona. I had wanted to walk to San Sebastián from there but the weather had been rather nasty and long range forecasts didn't have it getting better so it ended up that day 23 was the last day of my trek along the caminos.

It is snowing a bit up on the Alto de Perdón; you can see snow plastered against the sculptures and wind blowing a poncho. What you can't see is that I'm wearing shorts in lieu of rain pants. The picture was taken November 10th.



Link to photos on Flickr taken near Alto de Perdón

Edit: Just after posting I stood up and noticed that it is now snowing. It is May 9th. Six months with snow.
 
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VNwalking said:
Our posts are prescient. Sorry, Rick. May snowfall just seems like a bad joke. And your photo looks colder than mine. Um...you were in shorts?!
Click to expand...
The snowfall was actually pretty with big flakes falling gently and quickly melting. It was more the idea of snow in May that was upsetting. I think your picture shows cold better. But the one of me in shorts up there with some snow on the ground would beat that.
 
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Camino Del Norte. Another vertigo inducing photo! 9th May 2018 Walking & climbing between Islares and Laredo on a coastal alternative, which was a very steep, rocky, slippery & difficult path. Some of it we had to do on our hands & knees! But what wonderful views. In the distance looking to our next day's walk & ferry crossing to Santona and on to Noja, from the end of the beach.
 
Back to my camino timeline. This favorite photo was also taken in Bolea.



In an attempt to understand the sign Orquesta "Benamor" I found the following at YouTube.

'The J.L. Moreno Philharmonic Orchestra under the direction of conductor Tulio Gagliardo performs the musical piece called "Danza del Fuego" taken from the operetta "Benamor" by the Spanish composer Pablo Luna'
 
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First Meal---Beilari.

First meal in SJPDP night before wife and I started her first Camino 2015.

Little did we know that the majority of the people we ate dinner with this evening would become dear friends of ours not only for the month on the Camino, but also for life!!

We met again at Orisson which locked the friendship deal in!!

Meeting Pilgrims and then walking with them, enjoying meals and drinks in the evening as well as sharing a room with multiple bunks---This is how you get to know people and how a friendship will flourish.

This was a significant part of her Camino and I'm sure the same for so many of us......

 
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@Anne&Pat , here's the same view, in better weather, 18 September 2018
Did you go over Monte Candina from the Oriñon and the beach of Sonabia? We didn't as we thought it was too dangerous.
 
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This is from the now discouraged "mountain" route on the Norte between Soto de Luiña and Cadavedo, looking south onto the Asturian uplands. It's a glorious day, with the highlands to the left and the sea a sheer drop to the right. Since the motorway was built the official camino has been diverted and mostly follows the coast, but on a dry day the high road is a real treat.

 
One of the nice things about Caminos is the local festivals that one might happen across as one walks across a country. Near the start of our 2016 Camino, we passed through Pamplona during los San Fermines. That was expected and I'm sure everyone has seen photos of that festival. What we weren't expecting was the festival of the Astures and Romans in Astorga, which we happened to be in the city for. Here is a photo from that festival, from that Camino.
 
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AJGuillaume said:
@Anne&Pat , here's the same view, in better weather, 18 September 2018
Did you go over Monte Candina from the Oriñon and the beach of Sonabia? We didn't as we thought it was too dangerous.View attachment 74780
Click to expand...
Yes we did! It was quite dangerous (actual and perceived) in parts and very challenging but well worth the effort, as we were rewarded by amazing views and as often happens in these situations we met three Camino Angels. Two on the ascent and one on the descent. The first two were a young American couple who overtook us on the way up the vertical climb but who waited at the top to give us a hand, especially on the last 20 vertical metres, before we reached the plateau.
Then further on we met a local, a French girl with her dog, who waited for us so she could give us very good advice about correct path to follow and the best way to descend, which was nearly as bad as the ascent! A very difficult descending path to follow on a rocky slope and in sea fog!

Taken from the top of the vertical ascent, looking back east to Islares on the far side of the estuary with Sonabia below. 9th May 2018.
 
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A rest day to let sore legs, ankles and feet recover. A blessed Sabbath opportunity to slow down to the pace and quiet of village life in Espinal. Beautifully cared for and fed by the mother and daughter of our Casa Rural - 5 Sept 2015

 
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Everyone knows how difficult it can be to find a substantial amount of vegetables in a pilgrim's menu in Spain.
Therefore my advice to order the menu del dia instead of the menu de peregrino when possible.
So I entered , as a weary pilgrim , into restaurante Casa Barquiero in Negreira.They are Michelin rated and have a fancy dining room part but also a more democratic cafeteria part.
For 15 € in 2016 I had these wonderful grilled vegetables , chipirones a la plancha as a main . for dessert a homemade cheesecake. Bottle of Rioja Crianza all for myself.
The dressed up regulars were so friendly towards me. A memorable meal!

 
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....................Sunrise with moon leaving Najera, 11/01/2013

Today 11 May 2020 we in France are slowly moving from pandemic confinement into the shining light of new unconfined days.

Our ways have neither been nor shall be easy.
May we all find the strength and courage to continue

"...Tho' much is taken, much abides; and tho'
We are not now that strength which in old days
Moved earth and heaven, that which we are, we are;
One equal temper of heroic hearts,
Made weak by time and fate, but strong in will
To strive, to seek, to find, and not to yield."
Ulysses, by Alfred, Lord Tennyson

In the truest sense, Ultreia!
 
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There are few more spectacular walks than the old Roman road from the beautiful church at Diomondi down to Belesar on the River Miño, and then all the way up the other side towards Chantada.

The Invierno rocks!
 
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VNwalking said:
What more could a weary pilgrim want?
Except it was going in the opposite direction from the camino.
Oh, well. It was fun anyway.
View attachment 74821
(Andoain, Camino Vasco/Via de Bayona)
Click to expand...
Agreed!
We walked from Bilbao to Portugalete on Sunday 6th May 2018, a lovely walk, in beautiful weather,
along the river. Crossed the river at Portugalete on the Transporter bridge and then went up the steep hill to our albergue using the travelators ( 5 of them!!). They were a very welcome addition to our Camino del Norte transport list.


 
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The next favorite photo of mine was taken the same day as the photo of Castillo de Marcuello I sent in yesterday (day 15 of walk along the northern variant of the Camino Catalan). This was taken above the town of La Peña Estación (aka La Peña). I'm taking the liberty of sending three pictures today even though @VNwalking requested just one favorite each day. All three were taken at the same place and the two that didn't make it as my favorite are more likely to be the favorites for other forum members. I'm submitting them all as thumbnails that can be expanded.

My favorite:


This shows the town of La Peña Estación below the cliff. This is not just a sight seen on the camino, it is the camino:


I told you so:



As an aside, the stages that Gronze gives has for the last two stages of the Catalan the towns Bolea - La Peña Estación - Santa Cilia. The monasteries of San Juan de Peña are on the last stage. However, the town of La Peña Estación does not have any lodging. I walked the stages Bolea - Sarsamarcuello - Ena - Puente la Reina de Jaca (on the Aragonese).

See photos on Flickr taken near 42.373,-0.699
 
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Another stupid, simple, but favorite photo. This is a section of the Camino Catalan between La Peña and Ena. I had just taken a closeup of the rock wall of a hut and put the phone down to review the picture when the screen showed the camino I was walking on. It looked interesting to me so I captured it. I ended up taking a good number of pictures of the ground after that but now I regret not taking a few of shoes in mud.

 
(The bell tower at Zabaldika, Sept 7, 2015)

Welcomed with open arms, cared for with grace, blessed by sacred music, and nurtured by sharing. Here the upwelling of grief within brought gentle healing tears and filled my heart with love ... such a special place

 
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As mentioned in a previous post, when we walked in 2016 it was during the San Fermines in Pamplona. At that time of year I didn't think there would be a lot of accommodations to be had in the city, so we decided to stop about 5 km before the city and walk through the next day. We stayed in Trinidad de Arres, which has a very picturesque bridge and little waterfalls/rapids at the entrance. But this is a photo of the albergue. I thought it was really cool to be staying in a medieval pilgrims hospice or hospital.
 
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Anne&Pat said:
Camino Frances 8th September 2014 On the Meseta looking towards Hornillos del Camino from Alto Meseta 950m, having walked from Burgos that morning and heading for Hornillos.
Click to expand...
I've only seen this in later winter, spring, or very early summer. It's amazing how different it looks in September!

Today it's another river and another sky.
The rio Ebro as it flows between the old and new parts of Miranda de Ebro on the Via de Bayona - reflecting a dramatic evening sky that heralded approaching weather. I was thinking the next day might be a bit of a slog, but little did I know that it would turn out to be a 5-star day. So much for negative projections....who knows?
 
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I'm still on the same day on the Camino Catalan. It is my last full day on it, day 17. I'm in Ena for the night. I have less than a day to get to the monasteries at San Juan de la Peña. You have a few days more though.

Ena is full of wonderful stone buildings.




See photos on Flickr taken near Ena.
 
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Inside San Anton.
It is amazing how many people just walk right by this wonderful donativo Albergue. As an albergue, this has a similar feel as Grañon, and to be in the ruins at night is quite special - on top of everything else.
But you have to be willing to not need your next internet fix - it is completely off the grid. Another bonus.
 

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Camino Portuguese- 22nd,May,2016 This photo is actually the backdrop to our avatar photo, taken by Sarah, a lovely young german girl we met on the Camino and walked with quite a few times. It is taken near Hostal Jumboli, between Redondela and Arcade, where we stopped for some refreshment.

 
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It is still day 18 on the Camino Catalan and I have arrived in Botaya on my way to San Juan de la Peña. And, what can I say, I like taking pictures of doors. Sometimes the photo is a favorite not because it is a photographic marvel but because it brings back a memory or a feeling of the place. I was sitting here eating an apple that had fallen onto the road at the entrance into town and I was feeling good that, after about five years of expectation, I was going to be seeing San Juan de la Peña.



The population of Botaya, like Ena, is about two dozen. The buildings are in fine shape though, again, like Ena. The reason may be because they are maintained by the children of past residents who use the homes as retreats. At least one is. I had a short conversation with a part time resident who told me he was checking on the family dwelling.

Botaya's coordinates are 42.493,-0.652
 
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Camino del Norte- 9th, June, 2018 Somewhere a few kms after Albergue/Cafe Witericus after Carballedo and Aldar, maybe in Seixon. Many signs, hopefully the arrow was correct! Highly recommend Albergue/Cafe Witericus. Helen & her daughter looked after us very well.

 
These really aren't favorite pictures of mine but I'm posting them today to show you the "New" Monastery of San Juan de la Peña which the northern variant of the Camino Catalan passes before you arrive at the old monastery (about 1.5 km farther along). It really isn't so new in that construction started in 1676 after the old monastery had a fire. It was used as a monastery into the 1800s but then abandoned. The government of Aragon fixed it up and the architecture is pretty modern inside and partly outside. The out building in the left foreground is a vistor center. There are picnic grounds nearby. I'll steer you to http://www.monasteriosanjuan.com/monasterio-nuevo.php for more details (you may have to visit the homepage though to set your preferred language).



The coordinates for the new monastery are 42.508,-0.666
 
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Two photos, taken within a short space of time. Leon, 2006, July. The young woman helped me to put credit in my phone. She had such a beaming smile! And the pilgrim! Ha! One of those "why did I get myself into this?" moments...
 
I liked the old monastery at San Juan de la Peña much more than the "new" - although the views over the Pyrenees from near to the new one were jaw-droppingly beautiful.

One of my heroes, Unamuno, wrote far better about the old monastery and its surroundings than I ever could:

"Cruzamos arboledas de leño, de madera, no de frutos, donde el acebo hacía brillar sus erizadas hojas, como un arma. Y bajamos al viejo y venerable santuario. En un socavón de las entrañas rocosas de la tierra, en una gran cueva abierta, una argamasa de pedruscos que se corona con cimera de pinos... Y allí los monjes escribían en paz hechos de guerra, y al escribir historia la hacían...

En aquel refugio, casi caverna, bajo la pesadumbre visual de la peña colgada, se le venía a uno encima una argamasa de relatos históricos, de leyendas."

The capitals of the roofless cloister ("destechado claustro - le basta la peña por coberto"), almost surrealistic in places, are unlike any I've seen anywhere else.

 
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I love the capitals on the cloister at San Juan de la Pena. That monastery is my favourite religious site in all the Spanish caminos which I have walked. I was reminded of the capitals on the cloister when I saw the sculptures at the church of Diomondi on the Invierno last fall. To me, they seemed similar in style and theme.
 
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