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On the Camino: One Day at a Time, One Photo at a Time (Part 2)

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Two 16th century lions guarding the bishop of Ourense's summer palace at Santa Mariña de Augas Santas, on the Verín variant of the Camino Sanabrés. Santa Mariña was one of Galicia's earliest saints, martyred here around 100AD. When her head was cut off it bounced three times and each bounce produced one of the holy springs - augas santas. It must have been a fairly bouncy head, as the holy waters are quite a long way apart.

 
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Ferrol ( Camino Ingles ) through a curtain of relentless rain. Had a long breakfast hoping the rain would be less but when that did not happen I started anyway. On the outskirts of Ferrol I had my first encounter with a puddle of mud and rain in a local park. Not my finest moment ( no pic of that ).
 

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The 2024 Camino guides will be coming out little by little. Here is a collection of the ones that are out so far.
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Camino del Norte- 14th, June, 2018 Taken on the day after we arrived in Santiago having left Irun on the 26th, April, 2018.


Ten days later on the 24th, June, 2018 after walking to Finisterre & Muxia, we returned to Santiago before flying home. They had removed the scaffolding on the left side of the entrance to the cathedral and it looked magnificent.
 
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After Olleros de Tera (Sanabres) and before the dam Camino splits. The sign says that bicis should go left and continue on the gravel road but if you take right hand option you can get awarded because it takes you to the river bank. Although in 2015 it was very much overgrown. In 2018 I could barely noticed the turn off and I tried the bici variante. I guess everyone do just that so the nicer way will be forgotten.
 

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Get a spanish phone number with Airalo. eSim, so no physical SIM card. Easy to use app to add more funds if needed.
...and ship it to Santiago for storage. You pick it up once in Santiago. Service offered by Casa Ivar (we use DHL for transportation).
It was a very good sea glass beach! Others where I found great pieces are Ribeira Beach in Finisterre, the little beach on the harbour in Muxia and the beach near the Torre de Hércules in A Coruña.
Awww, I've been to both beaches in Muxia and Finesterre and never thought to scout for sea glass...next time!
 
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Roncesvalles in an evening in March.

A view across fields to an Iglesia between Vilarino and Sigueiro on the Camino Ingles.
I have exactly the same photo, but taken on a dull grey day. Yours is much better!
 

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...and ship it to Santiago for storage. You pick it up once in Santiago. Service offered by Casa Ivar (we use DHL for transportation).
Although I'm a Renault 4 fan for many years (you can see some of them here: https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/renault-4.24465/) and used to own three of them (yellow, red, blue) I was very happy to see one of Renault 6 in Mota del Cuervo (Levante). Owner told me that his father bought it for him to drive his bride to the wedding. A looong time ago, he added
 

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This photo is not on the camino After Las Medulas on the Invierno, I took a wrong turn and walked off camino about 4 km, arriving at the village of Yeres, then on to this road for 3 km to Las Vegas de Yeres, finally connecting to the road taking me to Puente Domingo del Flores. I think it was an extra 10 km or so on this day, but I loved this stretch. Quiet, bird song, a gentle breeze and beautiful views.

 
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The ~690AD basilica of Santa Lucía de Trampal, one of 4-5 visigothic churches to survive the conquista. Sitting lonely and lovely in the sweet-smelling dehesa between Aljucén and Alcuéscar on the Vía de la Plata, just north of Mérida.
 

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A selection of Camino Jewellery
I had a1959 Renault 4 Door as my very first car at age17. I paid $500. It was a 4 door, engine in the back and the front doors were called suicide doors as they opened opposite of normal... awww, the memories!!
 
The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.
Ideal pocket guides for during & after your Camino. Each weighs only 1.4 oz (40g)!
I have exactly the same photo, but taken on a dull grey day. Yours is much better!

Unfortunately on that camino, a lot of my photos were very dull too because of the overcast skies we had for most of the walk. This was one of the better mornings. My Australian pal Alan and I were volunteering in the Pilgrim's Office that year and we were 'squeezing' in a walk before we started our stint. A few days later it was sunshine all the way and really high temperatures: within a fews days of that, it was the complete opposite with cold days and rain

15 May 2014:

Rúa das Galeras in Santiago.

 
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Valcarlos, on the way to Roncesvalles. I walked through without pausing, but it would be a lovely place to spend the night.
I stayed in Valcarlos twice. It was an interesting village, the municipal was fairly new and well spread out. Had a nice dinner nearby at a cafe/pub where many locals were eating...good food.
 
Few pilgrims go through Valcarlos/Luzaide on Frances

I am one of them

Church and monument to pilgrims in the downtown.
 

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Train for your next Camino on California's Santa Catalina Island March 16-19
I thought Don Quixote was just a fictional character, but here he is..."as large as life".
Actually he wasn't fictional because he was Cervantes alter ego

So was Dulcinea, a simple farm girl, Cervantes neighbour I think.
EDIT: some googling - her name was Aldonza Lorenzo.
 
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The focus is on reducing the risk of failure through being well prepared. 2nd ed.
Advert for soap.
Please don't tell me they make it out of lizards.

Santa Maria de Belate, Camino Baztanes. It was founded as a pilgrim hospital and monastery in the 12th C., but then looted in the 16th C. and again in the18th C. There has been some suffering here; it was a heavy place but a beautiful setting, just below the pass at Belate.
 

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Blessed you St. James

One of many statues of St. James in the Cathedral of Santiago
Well, there's a picture I won't have to submit. Mine has a larger bouquet of flowers in front. The bouquets are placed there to hide the slaughter of the Moors, a good compromise I think between art, history, and culture and our modern sensibilities.
 
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12 October 2015:

Walking from Santiago to Fisterra, Muxia and back to Santiago. Came across this hórreo at Monasterio San Martiño de Ozón. There were quite a few people staying there commune style at the time. They were from all parts and were working to restore part of the monastery. Apparently the hórreo was also occupied occasionally

 
This photo reminds me of a post (without photo) about a 36 legged horreo seen by a pilgrim some years ago. I read the post shortly after I joined the forum. I concluded that a "horreo" must be a type of bug, to have that many legs. I wondered at the appearance and behaviour of such a creature, since the name suggested that it was "horrid".
 
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It is said to be the longest horreo in Galicia as I remember. I have a photo of it too but as I was coming from Santiago it was taken from the other side. I already posted that one photo for today
 
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When we were at the Monasterio San Martiño de Ozón, I recall the young lady who showed us around saying that their horreo was the biggest in Spain. It stands on 22 pairs of pillars. Last September, my wife and I came to Santiago for a short city break and took a bus trip to Fisterra and Muxia: the trip also included a visit to this horreo in Carnota which was described as 'one of the largest in the world'. It also has 22 pairs of pillars.
I am not sure why they named these structures as they have done: the pillars were designed to keep the four legged pests at bay, so perhaps your chain of thought, Albertagirl, wasn't too far away

 
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Well, there's a picture I won't have to submit. Mine has a larger bouquet of flowers in front. The bouquets are placed there to hide the slaughter of the Moors, a good compromise I think between art, history, and culture and our modern sensibilities.
When Franco's Moroccan civil war general Mohammed bin Mizzian was appointed Capitán General of Galicia in 1953, the cathedral authorities thought it would be tactful to remove the statue altogether in case it upset him. You can buy postcards of the work without the concealing flowers, and it really is unpleasantl;y gory.


Today's pic is of a bottle of Caronne Sainte Gemme I intend to have to celebrate Saint James' Day (Sainte Gemme is an old French variant of St Jacques or Santiago). It's a tasty cru bourgeois claret from a small chateau on the Vía Turonensis, not far from Benon, where there was a Templar pilgrim commanderie.
 

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Ideal pocket guides for during & after your Camino. Each weighs only 1.4 oz (40g)!
For St James's day.
(I took this photo at the end of my first camino, but I couldn't do that anymore...it would feel in some way disrespectful, and far away from what I am feeling when I go there now. At the time I thought I would only walk that one camino and wanted to record everything. )
 

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12 October 2015;


The Monasterio San Martiño de Ozón. The camino headed off across a field and we had a lot of 'toing and froing' on the little road opposite the monasterio before we finally found the proper path

 
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A selection of Camino Jewellery
Crossing the Duero at Soria on the Camino Castellano-Aragonés last autumn. Possibly the loveliest of the six places one of my caminos has crossed that river (well, once it was the Duoro in Portugal). Machado lived here for several years and wrote:

He vuelto a ver los álamos dorados,
álamos del camino en la ribera
del Duero, entre San Polo y San Saturio,
tras las murallas viejas
de Soria - barbacana
hacia Aragón, en castellana tierra.

Looks like I won't be seeing them again this year, sadly:
 

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Train for your next Camino on California's Santa Catalina Island March 16-19
Not a very clear picture. Ermita de Nosa Señora das Neves. In between Hospital and Cee. Usually not someone who takes a rest longer than ten minutes but here I stayed a bit longer.
She excite me too
 

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Looks like I won't be seeing them again this year, sadly:
You speak for all of us, but with better poetry, Alan.
Which has inspired me to exercise my brain today.

From Fernando Pessoa's The Keeper of the Sheep
Let us be calm and simple,
Like trees and streams,
And God will love us and make us
Us, like trees are trees,
And like streams are streams,
He will give to us the greenness of his spring
And a river to go to when we have concluded…
And will give us nothing more, for to give us more would be to take it from us.


Trees and stream, Near Vega de Valcarce
 
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Camino Frances- 4th, October, 2014 Posted today 25th, July, 2020 in memory of the Feast of St James.

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I had a different photo picked out for today, but when I saw one posted taken on October 4, I had to pick out my own taken on October 4 (2018) posing in a vineyard with what I like to think of as a birthday present. As many freshly picked grapes as we could carry, shared at the end of the day with fellow pilgrims in Casa da Fernanda.
 
The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.
There haven’t been any “people pictures” in a while. This is a shot of some of my “camino family” (the three on the top left) on my last Primitivo. In Grandas de Salime, we met the afternoon ladies group, aged 45-95 in the plaza. The two in wheel chairs had been friends since childhood and were proud to be the first in town to vote in the national elections taking place that day.

One of the two oldest told me that the working class in Spain is just like some tree whose English name I don't know. The more you prune back the tree, the more it grows. The workers, she said, the more you abuse them, the harder they work and the more they produce. Her version had a few words not fit for polite company, so you can probably guess which side of the political spectrum she falls on. We heard a lot of local gossip and enjoyed ourselves immensely.

 
A selection of Camino Jewellery
Oh, what a little Jewel, Donna!
And people...thank you for the reminder, Laurie, that there are people along the way.

Here is the mayor of Modubar de la Cuesta on the Camino San Olav. He kindly opened the church for me and then gave me a little tour of the village (of which he was rightly proud) beginning with the churchyard and ending with all the fruit trees he had grafted and planted himself along the road to Burgos - not to mention all those flags. It's a bad photo on a grey day, but he was a garrulous fellow who really made an impression!
 

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An abandoned footballfield somewhere on the Ingles. Reminded me immediately of the area where I live. Less young people around. Some people might find it a sad sight but it is just a sign of the times.
 

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Kitten pawing the ear in the cellar (bike storage) of albergue in San Cristovo de Cea (Sanabres, 2015). Just natural light, no Photoshop (I never do that anyway).
 

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