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On the Camino: One Day at a Time, one Photo at a Time 9.0

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Camino Frances, October 8, 2012. First photo - the view from the wonderful converted schoolhouse Albergue de Peregrinos Municipal de Ligonde across to Casa Mariluz, where we had dinner. Second photo - view from the garden of Casa Mariluz across to the albergue. We arrived in the early afternoon - a memorable, quiet, restful stay here.

 
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On the Camino Inglés May 2022 we stayed at the Kensington Hotel in Narón. I read JohnLloyd "Live from the Camino" report from early April where he mentioned spending his first evening here! It was a lovely stay with a clean room, good food, great service and a nice outdoor seating area. Thank you for the recommendation;-)

 
"Bibliobus," a traveling library spotted between Burgos and Hornillos, 2007. It was a sweet and marvelous idea and I've never seen anything like it before or since. I wish the driver had been present to share its story! Alas, the Bibliobus remains a small but charming mystery to me.
 

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A charming mystery to you - a lifeline to the people of the country!
Sending a pm with more info. Why a pm? Not camino related.
 
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The bus arrived in Roncesvalles after three in the afternoon. I was so excited to get going that I didn’t think to get my credential stamped before I rushed off towards Espinal, where I spent my first night on the Camino.

Looking back at Espinal in the morning, March 23, 2022

 
Camino Frances
leaving La Virgen del Camino

photo taken November 13, 2011



This metal pilgrim points towards the two ways to leave the town La Virgen del Camino. He stands near the junction of the main CF, which parallels the noisy route N120 direct to Villadangos, and the peaceful alternate camino going slightly SW to Villar de Mazarife.
...The choice is yours.
 
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Camino Frances
Villavante
Iglesia de la Purificación de Nuestra Señora

photo taken November 14, 2011



In Villavante it was a suprise to see this circular flight of steps "hidden" in the locked church tower while walking from Villar de Mazarife along the CF alternate route towards Hospital d'Orbigo
 
There's a thread somewhere about your favourite grafitti on the camino but I can't find it so I'll put this here. On the way into Burgos, last day on the Lana. It says "So this is how we share the work" "And the wealth, my lord, and the wealth."

On a slight tangent, I've always thought the characters of Blackadder and Baldrick were based on Don Quijote and Sancho Panza. Both brilliant in their own way.
 
dick bird,
Might we all share that "wealth".
Here is a recent forum link to favorite graffiti.
Carpe diem!
 
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June 11th 2022, around 10am, between O Logoso and Cee on the way to Fisterra I met "Vákner". Possibly the most unexpected view on my camino. In Olveiroa the day before I had noticed two big billboards with promotion for Vákner. I thought it was for a new Hollywood horror movie blockbuster. And I wondered why here, there is no cinema around. And why this strange German sounding name, in my ears a mix of Wagner and Valkyrie, possibly to make the creature sound more frightening? Only when I stumbled upon the enormous statue (which was obviously brand new) I learned that Vákner actually was a medieval pilgrim-eating monster from the Galician woods. I was more amused than frightened due to its look (Godzilla-meets-werewolf-with-digestive-problems).
 

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Umwandert said:
Vákner actually was a medieval pilgrim-eating monster from the Galician woods.
Click to expand...
Wow we need to revive and update that tradition. How about we get a rumor going that he appears any time someone leaves their TP in the bushes?
We could start by adding a sign at the bottom of this post that says 'Danger - Vakner,' and have someone upload a freaked-out post on FB, Twitter, IG, and Tiktok?
 

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Camino Frances
Rabanal del Camino
Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de la Asunción

photo taken November 17, 2011



From afar it was alway a relief to see this church tower rising above the Rabanal roof tops; here I could rest before continuing into the high mountains.
 
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Camino Frances
El Acebo
photo taken November 20, 2011



Leaving El Acebo on a very cold, overcast morning this was the last typical/vernacular structure before the descent; local mountain slates covered the roof and the second floor porch opened onto the single street, the Calle Real/Camino.
 
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March 26, 2022

On this day I backtracked from Puente la Reina to see the church of Santa Maria de Eunate, then returned to Puente la Reina for a second night, this time at Albergue Estrella Guia, very close to the bridge. I had plenty of time to relax, enjoy this beautiful town, and attend evening mass at the church, which included a special pilgrim blessing. The priest gave each of us a copy of the pilgrims’ prayer and a small heart shaped necklace and told us to wear it so that Puente la Reina would always be close to our hearts. I wore mine all the way to Santiago.

Here’s one of the photos I took at Eunate:
 
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JohnLloyd said:
and wondering if there was a story to be told about them.
Click to expand...
My response to your photo was not directed at you, John, but at the people who insist on making their little 'I was here' rock piles. It's a tribute to ego nothing else.

Vent for the day concluded, here is something less grumpy - the way leading down to Hospital Santa Maria de Velate on the Baztan, 2017.
 
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SabineP said:
Is that the one with the picknickbench in front?
Click to expand...
I honestly don't remember a picnic bench, and I looked at all the pictures we took there. All I know is that this is the bridge that goes into the tiny village of Lambre - in the Paderne municipality, on our way to Betanzos.
 
Peregrina 2013 said:
I honestly don't remember a picnic bench, and I looked at all the pictures we took there. All I know is that this is the bridge that goes into the tiny village of Lambre - in the Paderne municipality, on our way to Betanzos.
Click to expand...

I guess it is not the same place. Me and names!

 
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I posted the cairn image on a few Facebook groups and it generated some negative responses about the culture of cairn construction on the Way, and elsewhere.

Making no comment on that, it was revealed that this particular collection was the work of a local man, who has constructed it over the years as a magnet for his donativo/refreshment stand.

He wasn't there when I passed by.
 



On this day four years ago, I was impressed by this statue in Logroño as it was the first “official” recognition of female peregrinos I had seen on the Way.

It might have been a predominantly male experience in times past - but this statue acknowledged the modern-day reality.
 
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Hi John,
Everybody thinks they are pilgrims to Santiago, me too. But I was told by a local guide that they are pilgrims to the Virgin of Valvanera. This virgin is the patron saint of La Rioja, they do the pilgrimage once per year and is called Valvanerada.
You can look at the plaque on the floor.



So we have to search the first “official” recognition of female peregrinos on the Way.


,
 
Yes, I have been informed of exactly those details on a Camino Facebook group - fascinating stuff! And perhaps a reason to visit there again to participate!

So, where is the first statue representing female peregrinos on the French route? Mansilla de las Mulas?
 
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I believe so? The "Monumento al Peregrino" in Mansilla de las Mulas was erected in 1998. Absolutely beautiful. Sadly, it appears that the artist passed away this year.

P.S. (edit) I do have a photo of the woman in this statue, taken by my husband this June, but I'm having formatting issues. Will try to post it once sorted.

Ángel Muñiz Alique - Wikipedia, la enciclopedia libre

es.wikipedia.org

Monumento al Peregrino, Mansilla de las Mulas - 86671 - Biodiversidad Virtual / Etnografía

Título: Monumento al Peregrino, Mansilla de las Mulas, Descripción: Escultura en piedra que carece de un frontal principal y en la que las tres figuras de peregrinos que la forman adquieren igual importancia alrededor de un crucero. Obra realizada en 1998 por el escultor Ángel Muñiz Alique (La...
www.biodiversidadvirtual.org
 
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Ah, what about the bronzes at Alto del Perdón? Isn't at least one of those a feminine figure?
 
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Not on the CF but nevertheless a depiction of a peregrina.

Peregrina del Camino de Santiago

La imagen nos muestra una peregrina jacobea, a juzgar por una vieira que porta en su saco de camino...
arteviajero.com

Found this article, nothing to do with the statues but an interesting read.

10 mujeres peregrinas que hicieron historia - Google Arts & Culture

Descubre la historia de 10 mujeres extraordinarias que vivieron sus peregrinaciones como experiencias inolvidables. Son claros ejemplos de su vinculación al espíritu mismo del Camino de Santiago y de otras rutas.
artsandculture.google.com
 
Nice catch @JohnLloyd ! I'd never looked closely enough at those figures at Alto de Perdón but I think you're right. Google says it was done by Vincent Galbete in 1996, so that would predate the female pilgrim in Mansilla by two years. As promised, here is my husband's photo - female pilgrim sculpted in Mansilla de las Mulas monument, June 2022.
 

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You have given plenty of material there, thank you very much! I never read Shirley Macleane - I doubt she really had to beg for food though!
 
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These are quite impressive examples!
Now all we peregrinas should joyfully shout "Never underestimate the power of a woman" !
 
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VNwalking said:
The Iglesia del Santo Sepulcro in Torres del Rio on a damp gray morning in March 2015.
Sadly the door was locked. It is a treasure inside.
View attachment 131941
Click to expand...


In 2011 I had the privilege of an open door. Only two fellow New Zealand peregrinas and I seemed interested in visiting. A very memorable afternoon ( I also received a rather emotional message from one of my workmates so the visit to Torres del Rio is something I treasure very much ).
 
On this day at this time four years ago, on the path from Azofra to Grañón.

By now, I was hitting my stride, thinking more than I thought possible, and learning lessons every step of the way.

Pay It Forward

As I left the albergue at Azofra this morning, I noticed an old man walking just ahead of me. He was slightly hunched over and limping a little, and I had thoughts of saying “hello” and…
johnelsewhere.blog

 
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Inside the spectacular Church of the Assumption, Navarrete, CF, March 30, 2022

It seemed that each church I entered was more ornate and imposing than the one before. I couldn’t linger in this one though, as a funeral was about to begin.

 
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I remember that. You need to put a 1 Euro coin into a slot to see it properly?

That was illuminating, in more ways than one. I wonder if the price has increased in line with energy prices.
 


On this day at this time four years ago, I was still thinking about the extraordinary events at St Juan Baptista the night before.

Of course, the Camino soon provided new material for my mind to mull over, as I began to marvel at the magnificent murals of Belorado.

The artistry on display, and the history that it spoke of, were mind-blowing.

The Biography Of Silence

If you know me, you’ll know that I generally use a lot of words, when fewer might do just as well. If you know me well, you’ll know that when in company, I cannot allow a silence to dev…
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JohnLloyd said:
I remember that. You need to put a 1 Euro coin into a slot to see it properly?

That was illuminating, in more ways than one. I wonder if the price has increased in line with energy prices.
Click to expand...
I don’t remember that in Navarrete, but I did see such a coin slot at the Knights Templar church in Villalcazar de Sirga, and put my Euro in.
This photo is from 2015:
 
Santiago de Compostela
Cathedral

photo taken December 3, 2011



Perhaps 15 pilgrims attended this evening mass; we all sat or stood close to the altar. A solitary nun sang; her voice rose pure and clear. The places from which we pilgrims had begun our caminos were read.
...Indeed, all was timeless.
 
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Walking the Camino mirrors life: it’s full of ups and downs.

On this day, four years ago, that parallel took on another meaning for me.

Keep Your Head Up

The significance of this experience is beginning to challenge my ability to keep up with it – physically, spiritually and literarily. This morning’s post covered the events of a memorab…
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Finisterre
photo taken December 9, 2011 am



Just after dawn walking the final kilometers along the sea to Finisterre I silently offered my heartfelt thanks for all that had been and for all those that had helped to make it so.
 
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On my first pilgrimage, in 2001, I neglected to factor travel days when planned trip. Ergo, I was short on time. Started in Roncesvalles then took bus from O’Cebreiro to just before Monte de Gozo where I stopped to receive a stamp walking on to Santiago. Lozano guidebook I was using said you must walk at least 100kms.

So, 09/03/2001–03/09/2001, I met with mom. She took transport while I walked pilgrimage. Off we two went to pilgrims office. Where I happily slapped my credential on table. I started in Roncesvalles. I walked at least 100kms. I was a pilgrim. Young lady in office looked at my pilgrim’s passport. Then asked, “what did you do from O’Cebreiro”? I said: “I took a bus”. She said: “Sorry, you are not a pilgrim”.

I argued guidebook I picked up in Spain’s Office of Tourism in NYC and used for trek only said walk at least 100kms. Finally, manager gently opened my credential to penultimate page which clearly outlined necessity to walk at least last 100kms.

Pictured is the thanks for visiting tomb of St. James nicety non-pilgrims receive. Also, added credential page outlining Compostela requirements.
 

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I really enjoyed that anonymous feeling of everyday immersion, too, @VNwalking. Very well said. My other favorite aspect of the walk out of Leon was how after Virgen, back on country paths, the soil suddenly seemed a different color underfoot. From the light and chalky look of the Meseta, the earth took on rich sienna hues. Perhaps the subtle changes had been occurring all along, but the contrast after Leon struck all at once and left me amazed.

Between Virgen del Camino and Mazarife, 2007
 
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One of our best dinners along the Camino Inglés was in Betanzos 6th of May, 2022. The entire meal we had at the Onze Restaurant was an incredible culinary experience. For starters we had chipirones - baby squid, ensalada mixta, aceitunas - olives, zamburiñas - variegated scallops and, wonderful rustic bread. The tarta de queso - cheescake, was creamy, dense and delicious!

 
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