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On the Camino: One Day at a Time, one Photo at a Time 6.0

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Smallest_Sparrow said:
Llanes, in front of a private Indianos home. on the Norte

View attachment 109936
Click to expand...
I just did a cursory check, and confirmed my guess that this is an example of a mansion built by those who emigrated, made their fortunes, and built a mansion at home to declare that they had 'done the 'Americas'. At least, that is what I understood in a conversation with locals in Navarra...
 
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Yes, Llanes and surrounding area (for example Ribadesella and some of Comillas) full of examples. @dick bird posted earlier a picture of the ruins of the palace of Parterriu. Architecture combined Spanish style with that of South America and Caribbean. I think the albergue in Llanes might be in an Indianos house but I didn’t stop in Llanes but continued on to Barro. To my untrained eye it’s as immediately identifiable as San Francisco’s Victorians

Edit: not saying Victorians look like indianos (although they do have color and embellishment in common) but rather once you’ve seen one you recognize them immediately. Also my mistake @dick bird posted a different ruin. If he doesn’t I’ll post Parterriu later

The architecture of the Indianos

The architecture of the Indianos can be found all over Llanes and the borough. In the town it is one of the most outstanding aspects of its architectural heritage. The Indianos originated from Llanes but, faced with the financial difficulties of the end of the nineteenth and the beginning of the...
www.llanes.es
 
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My picture of the house was blurred but this is one from Google Earth…I’m often off track but pretty sure this is on the Camino

 
Camino Jewellery
A selection of Camino Jewellery
west of Nájera
camino landscape,

photo taken February 19, 2007



West of Nájera on the CF beneath a vivid blue sky and bright winter sun snow-covered mountains were visible to the south on my left.

That February walk was a long cold slog across frozen mud. At the first warm place to sit, a wayside bar in Cirulena, eager construction workers helped me order lunch and watched me eat!
 


San Pelayo ( Payo ) de Buscas.Camino Ingles.

IGLESIA IGREXA PARROQUIAL DE SAN PAIO DE BUSCÁS EN ORDES A CORUÑA

Iglesia de orígenes románicos reformada en los s. XVIII y s. XIX. Tiene una nave de planta rectangular, muros de cantería y cubierta a dos aguas. En la fachada tiene una puerta enmarcada por un arco de medio punto y arquivoltas, la externa decorada con motivos geométricos y asentada sobre dos...
www.turismo.gal

Originally romanesque but restored in later centuries.
 
The story of the young Galician captive’s martyrdom in Córdoba for refusing to convert was a strong motivator in the Reconquista. His remains are at the monastery in Oviedo that gives the Las Pelayas their nickname
 
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Theatregal said:
Tagging on with mine of San Pelayo Thank you @SabineP , @Smallest_Sparrow and @VNwalking for the different views and info!
Click to expand...
I took a bunch of photos of it, in part because the entry to the churchyard is so inviting, and the gate was open. Amazing how a blue sky creates a different ambience.
 
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VNwalking said:
I took a bunch of photos of it, in part because the entry to the churchyard is so inviting, and the gate was open. Amazing how a blue sky creates a different ambience.
Click to expand...
Yes, very different ambience! It was thundering and starting to rain so I didn't stop to step through that gate and explore a bit.
 
Ladies and gentlemen : it is hardly a surprise that the first thread I look into on a daily basis is this one.
I love the gentle atmosphere ( respect and politeness ) and flow of this particular thread.
I especially love how everyone of you has a specific " view " on all things Camino.

So thanks to each of you for making my day a better one.
 
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west of Fromista
walking path parallel to P-980
marker

photo taken March 1, 2007




This elegant stately marker topped with a cross is a welcome contrast to the more recent low concrete bollards alining the Camino Frances path parallel to Palencia route P-980 west of Fromista/ east of Villalcazar de Sirga.
 
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Somewhere in between Pontedeume and Betanzos. CI.

Pontedeume - Betanzos | Camino Inglés | Gronze.com

Etapa corta y agradable que transcurre en buena parte por zonas rurales; presenta repechos frecuentes, entre los que destaca la durísima cuesta por la que salimos de Pontedeume, que hay que tomar con calma. A mitad del trayecto tenemos la localidad de Miño, con playa, albergue y todos los...
www.gronze.com
 
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Sunset, Villavieja, day 1 of the Invierno 29 Sept 2018. I'm not sure why they put an albergue up here. It is way off the route and quite a long hard climb to admittedly a lovely albergue but no services whatsoever. The castle is very picturesque but in a country that has more castles per 100sq km than any other, not something you have to see. But no regrets, it was a lovely day's walk and we enjoyed having the albergue to ourselves.

 
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Smallest_Sparrow said:
in honor of Michaelmas, although for many of you i suppose that was yesterday:


I'm confident many of you walked beneath this (I didn't but I took a picture)...anyone have a guess where it was?
Click to expand...
Smallest_Sparrow,
Wherever this statue of St Michael may be I don't think he is alone, ie. there may other saints nearby in other niches. The pilasters appear dusty or of different stone. Hmm. I will worry about this all evening. Thanks for your puzzle.
 
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He’s outdoors so it could be both dusty and/or different stone—you’ve got a good eye!
 
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I first thought when I read your post that it could be the Iglesia San Bartolomé in Logroño but the façade does not match...

Iglesia de San Bartolomé - Lugar de interés - La Rioja Turismo

lariojaturismo.com

Ah the suspense!
 
Smallest_Sparrow said:
You are both going to slap your foreheads…
I will admit I’m a St Michael groupie (bordering on stalker) so he often stood out to me more than he probably did when you past under him
Click to expand...


I give up! The façade in your pic looks so " clean". Rather too well restored, if that makes sense?
 
SabineP said:
I give up! The façade in your pic looks so " clean". Rather too well restored, if that makes sense?
Click to expand...
No, the problem is I wander around too much. I just looked at the other picture I have that shows the entire facade. I thought this was above the albergue door. It’s not. So it’s likely not ON the actual Camino but part of my rambling. Never listen to me and don’t follow me ever on the Camino I’ll edit this in a minute that shows my embarrassment


edit:

sort of like an albergue my only defense is it's been a few years ago. Pamplona, undoubtedly a random street I passed while looking for the Parliament building (where I stalking a different St Michael)
 
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Camino Way markers in Bronze
The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.


Haha retirement home for priests.Yes ! In a sense also an albergue although I hope someone is doing the laundry for them.

RETIRO SACERDOTAL DEL BUEN PASTOR

La residencia de ancianos retiro sacerdotal del buen pastor cuenta con prestaciones como servicio médico propio, sala de televisión y servicios de instalaciones generales, servicios sociosanitarios Para poder ingresar en la residencia retiro sacerdotal del buen pastor es necesario cumplir estos...
www.infoelder.com
 
I was in a hurry to find a St Michael picture and knew I had a few from Pamplona. I saw in the thumbnails this was above the doorway of a building and assumed it was the albergue because other than taking a picture of St Michael I couldn’t think of another reason I’d have taken a picture of the building. But once I enlarged it I remembered I’d also sent an email home wondering at the differences between the sleeping arrangements we had vs the priests.

Edit: in my defense I didn’t stay at the albergue. I will say I started to doubt my memory of the building when neither @mspath nor @SabineP recognized it…
 
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Thanks for the clarification! Now I can sleep. But first here is a happy memory about an elderly Pamplona priest.
 
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El Ganso
door

photo taken March 11, 2007



The weather was glorious, warm with a bright blue sky. Walking alonq the dirt CF track which runs from Santa Catalina de Somoza towards Rabanal del Camino the earth was orange as was this vibrant door.
 
We are back. Our daughter is recovering well after her operation and we had lots of cuddles with our 6 month old granddaughter. We are sure her recovery was made all the better by the thoughts and prayers from friends all over the world!
Back on the Camino del Norte for the last day before it joins the Camino Frances at Arzua. A Via Romano milestone in Boimorto, between Sobrado Dos Monxes and Arzua.
 
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As Medallas. Invierno Sept 30 2018. The Romans, ingenious if somewhat uncouth people, discovered gold in this region. As it was mainly locked up in the rocks, they devised an ingenious system based on the Venturi principle, channelling jets of water through the hillside into smaller and smaller holes until the pressure was powerful enough to blast huge chunks of mountain into the valley below where the gold could be extracted from it. Needless to say, it was the enslaved local Celto-Iberians who built the tunnels, not the Romans. This is one of the earliest examples of a landscape devastated by environmental exploitation, even though it looks spectacular. The local cuisine is based on chestnuts, each tree (and its fruit that falls to the ground) has an owner.

 
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Hostal (Parador) dos Reis Catolicos, Observatorio de Agonizados, a view of cupola above altar



A balcony at the level of the upper sacristy, connecting the St. Elizabeth, St. Sebastian, and Santiago wards, allowed patients to listen to Mass from their beds; priests would ascend via a spiral staircase to serve Communion. The Latin is translated as : "Think that death is always threatening us and that our life lasts but an instant. Think how false are delights, how deceptive are honors, how mortal is wealth, how briefly, uncertainly and falsely all this may serve us. Therefore, distance yourself from evil and do good for the poor."
 
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near Cee
photo taken December 8, 2011




Crossing the barren hills near Cee is magical. From up high you can at last glimpse the sea and in the far distance Finisterre. Imagine the excitement of medieval pilgrims when they saw that sea for the first time!
 
Another contemplation on death within a medieval hospice, is in Beaune, France. However in Beaune it is not written but visual. Within the famous Hospice de Beaune charity hospital hung the The Last Judgement painted by Rogier van der Weyden.
 
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Oficina de Peregrinos in Santiago de Compostela.No waiting line.
Quiet morning in April 2018 after finishing the Camino Ingles.
Also a short day so I arrived at 10.45.

Sigüeiro - Santiago de Compostela | Camino Inglés | Gronze.com

La etapa es corta, un último trámite que, si salimos temprano, nos permitirá estar en Santiago hacia el mediodía. Los dos primeros tercios del trayecto discurren por zonas de campiña y bosque, a lo largo de pistas o caminos muy agradables y siempre cerca de la nacional N-550; luego, durante el...
www.gronze.com
 
Sept 29 - Oct 1 2019. On the Norte. We said goodbye to a friend in Ribadeo then headed back over the bridge and around the ria to pick up the Ruta Historica. A beautiful and little walked route, presumably used by those who preferred to avoid the ferry (they must have read the Codex) before they built the bridge. That night there was a king tide in Vegadeo which flooded the streets. After a night in A Trapa in the lovely private donativo run by the lovely José we rejoined the Norte in Monoñedo. As we came into Mondoñedo we spotted this little homemade toy boat in a rainwater culvert.


 
to continue on @dick bird 's theme... I arrived in Zarautz in pouring rain. There's a beautiful esplanade with stone balusters along the the shops and Pazo (this definitely is ON the Norte)




by dinner time the rain had stopped; placing my post-dinner ice cream on the railing, I ran down the stone steps to the beach for obligatory I'm-on-the-Norte-beaches selfie. I took it quickly and ran back up before my ice cream melted. As I reached for my ice cream I heard a crash and looked down.



the guide book stressed always checking tides before walking on the shore options, and I knew how to use the tide function on my watch but never bothered. after this day I usually checked: the order would be 'Hey, a beach!!! I'm going this way!!!" "Wow, look at this sand...oooh, a seashell" "wait, maybe I should check the tides, oh another sea shell" "wow, that was a great beach, wait, I should check the tides"
 
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something tells me deer and bunnies walk with you on your camino, and I doubt you've ever been lost in a thunderstorm in the woods above Markina, got covered in ticks then fell into a stream
 
Smallest_Sparrow said:
Sorry to you especially and to everyone
Click to expand...
Why be sorry? My only gripe is that all that happened when I was asleep or busy, so I missed all the fun.
Anne&Pat said:
We are back. Our daughter is recovering well
Click to expand...
Welcome back!
Smallest_Sparrow said:
I doubt you've ever been lost in a thunderstorm in the woods above Markina, got covered in ticks then fell into a stream
Click to expand...
Oh my.
Did the ticks drop off when you tried to drown them?

Smallest_Sparrow said:
omething tells me deer and bunnies walk with you on your camino,
Click to expand...
Well, FWIW, when I walked with Sabine we saw no bunnies and only one deer. But there was ark- worthy rain, and some epic mud.
 
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VNwalking said:
Did the ticks drop off when you tried to drown them?
Click to expand...
Sadly no. It gave me something to do pulling them all off down in the ziortza monastery albergue showers, mini flashlight in my mouth for light. I was hypothermic by ziortza, cold showers didn’t help, I think the poor monks were afraid they’d lose their first pilgrim in hundreds of years. The one assigned to interact with us came back in the middle of the night to be sure I was still alive. Scared the stuffing out of all of us to have this figure in a black rain cloak silently appear in the middle of our room.

Edit: it did get me invited to stay an extra day/night though. All day to roam around a nearly empty monastery in a rain storm: yes please!
 
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O Hospital
Hospital da Cruz albergue

photo taken December 3, 2012



What's on the floor?

This shows how I organized my
autumn/winter kit within an albergue dorm.; it was easy to use space above/below a bottom bunk.

on bed post;
jacket/hat.

on top bunk;
clothes worn airing
seersucker bath towel drying.

on bed;
sleeping bag unrolled,
"office' envelope holds diary, pen, head lamp.

below bunk;
walking stick and boots,
stuff sac for sleeping bag,
sac for socks worn today/use tomorrow,
soft white bag holds toiletries,
water bottle filled for night-time sipping.

end wall:
sandals,
back-pack, never totally unpacked.

Early morning I quickly donned walking clothes, socks and boots, placed into the back-pack my 'evening' clothes, sandals, toiletries bag, and 'office' envelope, plus the rolled/stuffed sleeping bag.

Eager for breakfast I often packed in the dark!!
 
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Monte del Gozo, June, 2018. This photo was taken by Nick B, from Sydney, Australia, who is a member of this Forum and who has posted on this thread. We only met here at Monte del Gozo, he walked the Camino Frances that year and we had walked the Camino del Norte, thanks Nick. He had trouble taking the photo because we were surrounded by bikes and cyclists!
 
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Weekend so time for another foodpicture.
Normally I am careful to post a more negative review of a particular place on this forum seeing the owners are not aware of it , compared with places like Tripeadvisor ( the hilarious but correct name a moderator here gives for that website !).
Anyway I will make an exception for the general foodmarket/ inside hall of la Galiciana in Santiago de Compostela.

Mercado La Galiciana · Santiago de Compostela

Un mercado gastronómico con 8 locales de cocina, 3 barras de bebidas y puestos delicatessen, en el corazón de Santiago de Compostela
en.mercadolagaliciana.es


You see these foodhalls popping up in every bigger city in Europe the last years ( well except for the last Covidyear) .More " concept" than " restaurant ". So in this case a central hall gives different restaurateurs the possibility to have their own kitchen on the premises. Then there are central tables where you can sit down and eat what you ordered and can go back for a second choice at another stand.
At the time that I visited there was also a beercafé and fancy winebar.

A bit of a sterile environment and for these three meagre croquetas I paid 4€. I believe that when I visited it was not that long open so maybe next time I should visit again.
Don't get me wrong I do not believe I was ripped off being a tourist because the pricelist was there for everyone to view.

I have no clue if it attracts enough customers , although again seeing the open space and the ability of more social distancing than in a small tapasplace it might be a good alternative for those who do no want to enter a busy place in the old centre.

It was just not my thing.And not to compare with the wonderful hawker centres in Singapore.

 
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If it's the same place we went to (probably is) it was a bit more lively when we went there and a lot of locals go there. Yes, it is a bit of foodie hang out and not budget priced, but some sophisticated grub was a treat after endless menús del dia. It would be hard to make it work during social distancing though.
 

Yes I just saw the menu. Defintely more choice than years ago. And pulled pork on the menu. Now , when well executed and with a good sauce! Yum.
 
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I must have missed this earlier. I'll dig out some photos of 'Indianos' houses. There is a dark side to this 'local boy makes good in New World' narrative. A lot of them almost certainly used slave labour and may well have been involved in slave trading.
 
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I've taken photos of the Romanesque bridge at Puente la Reina on three separate Caminos Frances; the first time the day was overcast & dull, and the last time the water was rough but I captured a rainbow above it. This one in taken in 2016, though... the sky and the water were clear and calm making it possible to get the near-perfect reflection, allowing the arches to become complete circles.

CF, Oct 2016
 
Ah but you’re not accounting for the lovely food plating and presentation
 
and a lot of them built schools and hospitals and brought clean water to their towns. life is complex and no person or people is completely villain or victim. if we footnote history we should mention their good works as well as their bad, so history may be as generous with our own lives. I believe #5 is Palacio de Partarriu, the setting for the movie "The Orphanage"

edit: #1 is Colombres, just a little after that cobblestone path without shade out of Bustio
 
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it's settled then, I can never walk this Camino--I would never leave this bookshop. I adore any bookstore, they're like airports for my imagination--huge bookstores even more so, but this--this is beyond my wildest dreams
 
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Arzúa
municipal albergue
interior

photos taken December 6, 2012



In Arzúa on the CF in Galicia the municipal albergue is a repurposed/renovated historic school. Old stone was handsomely combined with new slate; original details were kept.



I always enjoyed staying/ sleeping here; the winter heating was great.

Unseen in these pictures, but best of all, in the spacious showers, hot water sprayed me/not the walls! Bliss
 
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dick bird said:
The Rio Sil, at Villamartín. If I weren't already spoken for, I'd marry that river it is so beautiful.
Click to expand...
Agreed. Even on a mostly overcast day...


Smallest_Sparrow said:
it's settled then, I can never walk this Camino
Click to expand...
An easy solution that I'd consider is a post-camino side trip, just for the bookstore. With a whole day to do nothing but look at books.
(Edit. How churlish of me. And certainly buy one or two!)
 
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It was only 1 in the afternoon when we arrived at the iconic Bodenaya, which doesn't open till 3. It was raining, so we just kept going to La Espina, just down the road. An unprepossessing town and a very unprepossessing looking albergue. But it turns out the hospitalera (Carmen) is also the manager of the Coviran supermarket downstairs. So in answer to our phone call, out she came on her day off. opened up the albergue, and the shop (just for us) and four of us put together a shared pilgrim meal and had one of the best evenings on our camino - Primitivo 4 Oct 2015. Next morning she was there to wish us god speed and insisted on taking our photo. An absolute star.

 
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Let us pick up your suitcase once you arrive in Europe....
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Theatregal said:
Rainy eve, Plaza de la Quintana. March 2017

View attachment 110392
Click to expand...
Chove en Santiago
meu doce amor
camelia branca do ar
brila entebrecida ao sol.
Chove en Santiago
na noite escura.
Herbas de prata e sono
cobren a valeira lúa.
Olla a choiva pola rúa
laio de pedra e cristal.
Olla no vento esvaido
soma e cinza do teu mar.
Soma e cinza do teu mar
Santiago, lonxe do sol;
agoa da mañan anterga
trema no meu corazón.

Fedérico García Lorca

It is raining in Santiago,
My sweet love.
The white camellia of the air,
Shines between twilight and the sun.

It is raining in Santiago,
In the dark night.
Herbs of silver and gold,
Cover the empty moon.

Look at the rain in the street,
Moaning of crystal and stone.
See, in the wind vanishing,
Fountain and ash of your sea.

Fountain and ash of your sea,
Santiago, so far from the sun.
The water of the ancestral morning,
Is trembling in my heart.
 

The source of this map is
napoleon-series.org

The present Napoleon route OVER the Pyrenees mountains to Roncesvalles dates from the French battles of 1813; when it was actually named the Napoleon route I do not know.

Although Napoleon Bonaparte never was on this route French troops fought at the
Battle of Roncesvalles 25 July, 1813, against the British led by General Wellington in one of the many campaigns of the 1808/1814 Peninsular war also known as La Francesada.

Pursued by the British the French would retreat from Spain later in 1813. Intense battles during these campaigns occurred at Roncesvalles, Zubiri, Pamplona, and Burgos all places pilgrims walk through today following the Camino Frances.

Colonel Walter O'Hara, who
fought with the British in the Roncesvalles battle, after emigrating to then Upper Canada mid-century would name Roncesvalles Avenue in Toronto after the 1813 battle.

For detailed information re the Battle of Roncesvalles see Martin Gibson's encyclopedic blog War and Security
 
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Old battlefields nearly all look utterly unremarkable with no hint of the horror that went on there. This is the site of the Battle of Salamanca (or Arapíles as the Spanish refer to it), another site of a Wellington battle. Not his first victory, but when that made the French take him very, very seriously as it was the first time he went on the attack (actually counter-attack) and totally out-manoeuvred them. From then on, Napoleon's armies were never fully in control of the Iberian peninsula and through a combination of Spanish and Portuguese resistance and guerrilla tactics and Wellington's persistence, they were finally forced to withdraw.

 
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dick bird.
Thanks for your thanks and current photo .
Here is The 1812 Map for the Salamanca battle site.
 
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Ideal sleeping bag liner whether we want to add a thermal plus to our bag, or if we want to use it alone to sleep in shelters or hostels. Thanks to its mummy shape, it adapts perfectly to our body.

€46,-
a few hundred meters off the actual camino, in a city. Which city, and the rest of the story tomorrow, but I really like this picture on its own, separate from the big picture, because a bunny in the city was so unexpected (like when I saw a fox running down the street in Baltimore), but more because at the same time my mind said "bunny!!!" it translated the Latin:
DO NOT BE AFRAID
 
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Toulouse
Basilique Saint-Sernin

photo taken January 6, 2012



This view of the Basilique Saint-Sernin
in Toulouse on the Camino d'Arles
was taken from the rue Saint-Bernard looking west towards the chevet, the exterior area behind the main altar.

Nearby cafes serve set meals at a reasonable price. I always enjoyed Le Cafe Saint Sernin at 2 Rue Saint-Bernard; it's a happy spot where many art students lunch.
 
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SabineP said:
View attachment 110498

Somewhere on the Meseta. CF 2011.
Click to expand...
I too was there in 2011; perhaps our paths did cross? In your photo all that lush green might be early summer?
However cold, wind, rain and thick heavy MUD were prevalent for me in early November.
 
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