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On the Camino: One Day at a Time, one Photo at a Time 5.0

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Months ago I posted a pic of the path next to the river but this is the river Oria itself.
Camino Vasco Interior. On the way to Zegama.

Beasain - Zegama | Camino Vasco del Interior | Gronze.com

Recuperamos a la salida de Beasain al agradable sosiego de los caminos de montaña, con bellos paisajes, entre prados, caseríos y bosques, alejándonos del tráfico, de los polígonos industriales y del bullicio urbano. Luego, a partir de Segura, volvemos a avanzar por un bidegorri. Destaca la...
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west of Fromista
walking path parallel to P-980
marker

photo taken March 1, 2007



This elegant stately marker topped with a cross is a welcome contrast to the more recent low concrete bollards alining the Camino Frances path parallel to Palencia route P-980 west of Fromista./ east of Villalcazar de Sirga.
 
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Oporto. Staying two nights allowed a thorough exploration of the city. It was a wonderful day, going from one side to the other, and losing my hat (so one photo, maybe tomorrow's will show it for the last time). I clearly have to let go of that hat! Anyway, here is one from the forecourt in front of the Cathedral:

 
The endless road! One of my most favourite photos (and I'm not in it) is this panoramic view from Alto Del Perdon. At a different time of the year with green fields and golden canola crops.
 

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Bronte DownUnder said:
The endless road! One of my most favourite photos (and I'm not in it) is this panoramic view from Alto Del Perdon. At a different time of the year with green fields and golden canola crops.
Click to expand...
But I am in this one ... just hanging out of the backpack. Just as well I don't suffer from hayfever!
 

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July 29, 2013. Mid-way up the long hill leaving Tineo on the Primitivo, is a small stone house with a sign "Aqui viva El Ultimo las Filipinas". As I was leaving Tineo a woman stopped to talk with me and said I should visit this house to see the man who calls himself "The last of the Phillipines" and he would give me a sello for my credential. He wasn't home but I stopped for a moment to admire his view of Tineo and the mountains beyond. In the garden, written on a board was a slightly altered version of Fernando Pessoa's poem "All love letters are ridiculous".

 
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Gorgeous! And then Pessoa....
 
Trinidad de Arre
Marist monastery/albergue

photo taken October 19, 2014



Pleasure in a garden

The Marist father who greeted me was as gracious as during past visits; nothing had changed; later drinking tea in this simple monastery garden I pondered if it had changed over time.

As the shadows lengthened I was thankful to simply be once again in this pleasant, almost timeless, place.
 
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The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.
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mspath said:
Perhaps Bronte would like to meet
my silent confidante
Click to expand...
I'm sure Bronte would be happy to share Camino travel tips with Mo. Bronte is actually a bear I made
mspath said:
Perhaps Bronte would like to meet
my silent confidante
Click to expand...
I'm sure Bronte would be happy to share Camino travel tips with Mo. Bronte is actually a bear I actually made from my husband's grandmother's wool/llama coat, 23 years ago. He has travelled extensively, not only with us but with colleagues over the years and he has many diaries and "teddy passports" as testament. However, he is obviously much smaller than Mo, but personally I have never factored in his weight ... he just comes.
 

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Sometimes I don't get to choose where I go, or what I see. Sometimes I would like to see where I'm going rather than where I've been but on this particular day I was so glad that I was tucked well inside the backpack and covered with a rain cover. It was freezing out there, caught in a snow storm leaving O'Cebriero.
 

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" Pedestrians in transit ". A giant board for that rather small minor road in Quintanavides.
But it says everything about this hidden Camino. How local groups and townhalls do their utmost best in good and uniform waymarking.
Etapa from Briviesca tot Monasterio de Rodilla. Camino Vasco Interior 2019.

Briviesca - Monasterio de Rodilla | Camino Vasco del Interior | Gronze.com

Etapa corta y básicamente llana, íntegramente por la comarca de La Bureba, y algo menos agradable que las precedentes por el contacto permanente con tres grandes ejes de comunicación: la autopista A-1, la nacional N-I y la línea de ferrocarril Madrid-Irún. Las pequeñas poblaciones intermedias de...
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I called in here a couple of years ago, en route to Zabaldika from Pamplona. The new hospitalero was most welcomg, snd I believe the same spirit holds as true as when the Marists were responsible. It is indeed a delightful secret garden...
 
kirkie said:
I called in here a couple of years ago, en route to Zabaldika from Pamplona. The new hospitalero was most welcomg, snd I believe the same spirit holds as true as when the Marists were responsible. It is indeed a delightful secret garden...
Click to expand...
Kirkie,
Thanks for your update.

This is a poignant 2017 account re the Marists leaving.

Una parada de 23 años en el Camino

Los hermanos Maristas, que han recibido a miles de peregrinos en el albergue de la Trinidad de Arre, se ven obligados a ceder el testigo por falta de relevo
www.noticiasdenavarra.com
 
Train on the 4-day Catalina Camino
Train for your next Camino on California's Santa Catalina Island March 16-19
near Najera
vineyard

November 1, 2014



Terra cotta and vino tinto

West from Logrono the CF passes through the wine-rich region of Rioja.

Although most grapes were harvested by November some escapees perfumed the air. Leaves recently turned russet matched deep orange soil. In early morning fog all was damp/chilly; autumn had arrived.

Crossing these gently rolling fields was an easy pleasure.
 
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Revenga de Campos
walking path parallel to route P-980
mural

photo taken November 6, 2011



Going your way

This mural on a wall facing east in Revenga de Campos can be seen by pilgrims walking west
on the CF path parallel to Palencia route P-980.

Actual pilgrims and the solitary painted pilgrim
united in purpose share the same goal, eventual arrival
at the Cathedral in Santiago de Compostella.
 
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Touring the cathedral and cloisters of Santa Maria de la Real in Pamplona we came across this display of letters to pilgrims from local schoolchildren. I was impressed that they were written in English! One of the letters suggests that pilgrims visit the school. Next time maybe I will, to thank the teacher for the creativity of this project.

 
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The 2024 Camino guides will be coming out little by little. Here is a collection of the ones that are out so far.

And that wonderful nice gentleman/ warden at the church further on the street!
 
Usually I have to wait for ages to see a photo on my laptop - yours came up immediately, and it is a breath of fresh air!
 
2011 was quite modern. The first computer program I wrote in 1970 used punched cards!
 
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Camino Frances
near Viana
broken Cross

photo taken October 27, 2014



Nearing Viana during my last camino I literally stumbled upon this broken wayside cross;
it was another poignant reminder
that everything changes/omnia mutantur.
 
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Anne&Pat said:
Golega, Portugal, we really liked this little town, especially it's equestrian history
Click to expand...
I got curious, and there is a huge fair every year in November. Well. The last one was 2019.

Program

Visit the post for more.
www.feiradagolega.com
It's quite something - dressage, show jumping, endurance, driving, breeders competitions in hand and under saddle; the dressage is at school, national and international levels. (I didn't look carefully, but didn't see any 3-day eventing.)
And even a tennis tournament (for horse- bored spouses?).

Worth timing a camino with a prolonged stop if you're into it!
 
Yes, this is an extremely popular event. It might be very hard to get accommodation around this time and actually may be somewhere to avoid! Accommodation is booked out a year in advance! Tomorrow will post a couple more photos of where we stayed and the view from the restaurant we had dinner the evening we were there.
 
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Food today. For the meat eaters who chose a pilgrim's menu regularly ( on the CF especially ) , most often the lomo ( pork tenderloin ) was not that special ( more shoe sole ) . But then again not much to complain about and we always have the choice to opt for a slightly more expensive menu del dia ( sometimes only for two € extra ).

I had this delicious lomo when I arrived at Santiago de Compostela ( don't remember after which Camino ) . Cooked to perfection and with a wonderful thick gravy. And quality potatoes to match.
Restaurante O Paris at Rua dos Bautizados.
They changed hands so hope standards are still as good.

Restaurante O Paris en Santiago de Compostela

Descubre la cocina y cada una de las 20 imágenes del restaurante O Paris en Santiago de Compostela.
www.quetecomo.es


 
Leaving the Albergue Tio Pepe's in Vilar de Mazarife in the early morning of April 16, 2019. We had been told in Leon to expect more pilgrims on the Camino during Holy Week as many Spaniards will take some vacation time to complete part of the Camino during that week. This was the scene ahead of us on the Tuesday of Holy Week. Looks like the advice was correct!

 
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SabineP said:

How could I miss that one? Or maybe it wasn't there yet in 2015...
Click to expand...

I stayed in Tui for 2 days at the Convento del Camino albergue (on the Camino path), which allowed time to explore some. I found it at the top of the road I took uphill to get to the main street with shops, bars, etc. Although I couldn't find the date it was erected, I found that the sculptor, Juan Oliveira (who has other popular equestrian works in Madrid and Vigo), passed away in 2002.
 
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Torres del Rio
Santo Sepulcro

photos taken February 14, 2007



Santo Sepulcro is small octagonal Romanesque 12th c. church on the CF in Torres del Rio.



Looking up into the central cupola criss-crossed by ribbed vaults was mesmerizing.

Some historiens link Santo Sepulcro to the Knights Templar who protected the Holy Sepulcher in Jerusalem; others link it to the nearby monastery at Irache.
.... Whatever, it is a gem.
 
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The three pilgrims in this photo, taken between Najera and Santo Domingo de la Calzada, are from Germany. We met them at our first albergue in Roncesvalles, and then again in various albergues, restaurants, rest stops, etc. all along the way as we leap-frogged each other, and always with a jovial greeting and encouraging words no matter how many times our paths crossed. We met them for the last time in the church of San Francisco in Santiago, at the Pilgrims' Mass. With celebratory smiles and hugs (we could still hug then!) and pats on the back each of us was so happy that the other had completed his goal. It was one of those unusual and serendipitous cohort relationships, and it intrigued me.

 
Camino Way markers in Bronze
The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.
Fabulous photo
 
Isn't that one of the great joys of the Camino - meeting people you wouldn't ordinarily come across. You change each other's worlds for even just a moment and some of those moments stay in your heart for ever. My collective Caminos have brought many wonderful people into my world - some I remain in contact with. Others I just think about periodically.
 
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Ideal sleeping bag liner whether we want to add a thermal plus to our bag, or if we want to use it alone to sleep in shelters or hostels. Thanks to its mummy shape, it adapts perfectly to our body.

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Granon
parish albergue
dinner

photo taken November 3, 2014




I have stayed ten times at the parish albergue San Juan Bautista in Granon on the CF.

November 3, 2014, once again I experienced special happiness and extraordinary caritas while there.

As always the communal dinner was cooked and served with love. We pilgrims shared food and ideas while offering personal thanks for the joy of being on the way.

All would remember the moments when the gracious priest and a young Korean pilgrim sang a duet praising the Virgin Mary; the delicate melody concluded a memorable evening of camino fellowship.

...May it always be so.
 
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SabineP said:
View attachment 101145

Leaving of the Palm Sunday procession in Los Arcos. CF 2011.

The processions in the bigger cities are always " impressive " but I prefer these more humble gatherings.
Click to expand...
We were lucky enough to attend a wedding In the church in Los Arcos on the Saturday evening we were there. This was to be the only Mass that night, we sat up the back with the local elderly ladies but when it was time for communion we were not allowed to join in.
 
Camino Way markers in Bronze
The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.

Not the Christian spirit but we we will discuss that in a pm...
 
In the small pueblo of La Portela de la Valcarce, a small group of missionaries from Venezuela were stationed outside the tiny church of San Juan Bautista. In speaking with them I found that they came expressly to encourage the pilgrims passing through. A pilgrim could rest in the church for a bit, and if desired, light a votive candle and place a prayer request in the basket. We arrived at noon, and as you can see in the photo, the opportunity to rest and pray had already been appreciated by many that day.

 
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I crossed path with this gentleman in Galicia. He was with his cows and chatted with us a bit. He also gave us some herbs, I don’t remember what it was but it was for protection and good luck if I understood well. The local people on the way were so friendly and helpful. I loved that I was able to meet some of them.
 
What an extraordinary experience it offers. I feared the consequences of a night on those mats, but I was on Cloud 9 when I left the following morning.
 
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Camino Frances
west of Itero de Vega

photo taken February 28, 2007



Skies were grey and heavy with rain while the ocher landscape was thoroughly wet. Puddles were everywhere.

For pondering this weather was perfect;
the cold drip of rainwater on my face kept me focused.

In order to get warm, eat a meal or eventually find a bunk for the night I had to continue walking.

...Thus I did, soaked but hopeful that the next day would be dry and sunny.
 
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The reception of the albergue Casa da Recoleta in Portela de Tamel. CP 2015.
Just after opening that day.
The daypack you see on the sofa belonged to a 84 year young lady from Brazil. The rest of baggage was been transported.
Very inspirational to see her walk.
There was also a very good vibe that night in the albergue. Everyone was so respectful and kind towards each other.

It is a municipal albergue and run by a local group.

Albergue de peregrinos Casa da Recoleta | Albergue de Peregrinos en Portela de Tamel | Gronze.com

Información del albergue de peregrinos Albergue de peregrinos Casa da Recoleta, en Portela de Tamel: Precio, plazas, características, etc...
www.gronze.com
 
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The priest (singing) in this photo is the person who took a small group of pilgrims on a tour of the church and cloister of Réal Colegiata de Santa Maria de Roncesvalles, attached to the albergue in Roncesvalles, and the site dates from about the 12th century. It was very obvious that he was in his element and passionate about the history of the church. The crowning touch of the tour came when we were in the last chapel containing the crypt of Sanchez the Strong (Sanchez VII). The room is made completely of stone, and he told that if you sing in the chapel, the stone resonates the sound. Then he says to us “Let's sing together, Amazing Grace” and starts to hum the tune. Although some joined in, many, including me, could not. To see and hear him in that historical setting, with his obvious passion, was too emotional and my voice cracked. Then, he remembered there was someone in the group from Peru ... maybe you know what song he did next ... El Condor Pasa. It was a special moment and a privilege, bless him. As we left the tour, another pilgrim came up to me and just shook his head and said “Wow - that was powerful!” Everyone felt it.

 
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Looking backwards is rewarding but walking backwards can be complicated.

December 2011 I walked south to the border at Tui/Valenca which involved going "backward" along the Camino Portuguese south from Santiago.

Searching for yellow arrows pointing in the opposite direction wasn't easy. Viewed backwards the arrows resembled anchors; thus it all was a bit of a treasure hunt!

Portugal itself was the treasure! The friendly people, the extraordinary architecture and, of course, the delicious meals with WONDERFUL desserts. My husband joined me at Valenca do Minho and together we happily celebrated the holidays.


...............................................................
Pousada Sao Bento, Caniçada, Gerês
Christmas Day 2011
 
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