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On the Camino: One Day at a Time, one Photo at a Time 5.0

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After Ponte de Lima. Camino Portugues. A gorgeous etapa.

Ponte de Lima - Rubiães | Camino Portugués | Gronze.com

Otra etapa muy interesante, en la que afrontamos el Alto da Portela Grande de Labruja, la subida más importante del Camino Portugués: ganamos 315 metros de altitud en 4,2 kilómetros, en un recorrido boscoso, agradable, y sin la menor dificultad para los caminantes (no así para los ciclistas). No...
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Another oft photographed building ... the imposing 17th century Iglesia San Nicolás de Bari seen from the Camino as one approaches the old Romanesque bridge in Molinaseca. We opted to pass through Molinaseca and stop in Ponferrada, but next time I will visit the church ... I promise!

 
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kirkie said:
Last stop leaving Betanzos on the Ingles. Run by a very nice couple, named for their daughter, if I remember correctly. We enjoyed a juice, toast and coffee breakfast to fuel us on our way.
View attachment 99940
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Loved that place!! Very friendly indeed. Worthwile the short walk out of town. Much better than the places on the plaza mayor.
 
Entering Villavieja on the Invierno. All very quiet and still in the morning mist... until I turned the bend past the church and soon encountered some very yappy agressive little dogs. Thankfully, all bark no bite! The walk through this village and down (then up) to the Castillo de Cornatel is beautiful.

 
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JohnLloyd said:
View attachment 99975

Whenever I'm at a fork in the road, I always take the path on the left, and it usually works out well for me.

Until I took the path on the left on the final approach to Portomarín...
Click to expand...
Wow! Did you backtrack or crawl forward? After this the bridge into Portomarin must have been very easy. Glad that you made it safely.
 
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Valenca do Minho
photos taken December 2012





Walking north to Tui on the Camino Portugues from Valenca do Minho, which was the old frontier, you can meander through the double-walled 17th c Fortaleza/Fortress designed by Vauban.

Decending through the garden of the Pousada/hotel Sao Teotonio the camino then crosses the river Minho on the 19th c International bridge attributed to Eiffel.



Before descending do plan to stop at the Pousada"s bar to sip a coffee or more, relax and admire the panoramic view towards Tui, Spain. ...At dusk as the lights are lit across the water all is stunning and the view from room 68 very special.
 
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Camino Way markers in Bronze
The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.
Just outside Roncesvalles, I met this little bird. As you can see, I was able to get very close ... but that was necessary in order to hear it! This bird had a very small voice and as I approached I could swear I heard it chirp "Buen Camino!"

 
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View from the little balcony of my room at Complejo Rural Agoga at Las Medulas. I spent one and a half days there viewing the breathtaking landscape and exploring the paths and tunnels of the historic Roman gold mining site. One of the places on the Invierno that makes me want to return to this camino.

 
JohnLloyd said:
View attachment 99975

Whenever I'm at a fork in the road, I always take the path on the left, and it usually works out well for me.

Until I took the path on the left on the final approach to Portomarín...
Click to expand...
Me too! Started off quite inoffensive
 

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Camino Jewellery
A selection of Camino Jewellery
near and in Peñabla de Santiago

photos taken November 25, 2014


November 2014 another pilgrim and I shared a taxi from Salas de los Barrios to Montes de la Valdueza.



Later at Peñalba de Santiago,
located roughly 22km south of Ponferrada night was falling. We quickly saw/shot the exterior of the remote 10th century church, Santiago de Peñalba.






Originally part of a monastery it is a Mozarabic gem and a protected Spanish landmark. Unfortunately the interior was closed.
 
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Early spring morning mists mingle with wood smoke and hover over the houses between O Pedrouzo and Santiago de Compostela. The fields have been sown and life will go on as it has for hundreds of years, while this pilgrim deals with mixed emotions nearing the end of this Camino. I wonder why I am already starting to miss it! The pueblos, the people, their culture, traditions and history; the food and goodwill; the walking, the good weather and foul weather; fellow like-minded pilgrims, encouraging each other, helping each other; some good days, some hard days, some really challenging climbs. Yet the Camino has been a decidedly positive affirmation and has infused my spirit with something that is hard to express. It's no wonder why I am already starting to miss it!

 
The journey is never ending

"The end of one journey is simply the start of another. You have to see what you missed the first time, see again what you already saw, see in springtime what you saw in summer, in daylight what you saw at night, see the sun shining where you saw the rain falling, see crops growing, the fruit ripen, the stone which has moved, the shadow that was not there before. You have to go back to the footsteps already taken, to go over them again or add fresh ones alongside them.You have to start the journey anew. Always"
Jose Saramago, A Journey to Portugal
 
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Ingles. I think this was on the way from Neda. That day we were fortunate to be invited by the local top civil servant to go in and get a stamp, and have a conversation by the bye. It also allowed for what is known in some places as a comfort stop...
 
Let us pick up your suitcase once you arrive in Europe....
...and ship it to Santiago for storage. You pick it up once in Santiago. Service offered by Casa Ivar (we use DHL for transportation).
Get a Spanish mobil number + data while on the Camino
Get a spanish phone number with Airalo. eSim, so no physical SIM card. Easy to use app to add more funds if needed.
Camino Way markers in Bronze
The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.
Calzadilla de la Cueza
moonrise still life

photo taken February 21, 2009




On the Camino Frances viewed across a winter landscape in Calzadilla de la Cueza this surreal moonrise resembled painted theatrical scenery.

... Tap the photo to see the Magic.
 
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Anne&Pat said:
In front of Casa Loncho, Olveiroa, where we stayed on our way to Finisterre/Muxia. One of the villages many Horreos just in front. Very agricultural village. June, 2018.
View attachment 99426
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I would love to hear more about how it went for you in Casa Loncho. When I last walked through, they were thinking about opening an “all you can eat” buffet retaurant in the café. I think the best place to eat in town, by far, is As Pías. I have stayed once in the municipal albergue in Olveiroa, but find that for me the best way to get to Fisterra or Muxia is to spend the first night from Santiago in Vilaserio.
 
I think we slept in the same room! The people who run this place are wonderful. They have been very successful and could probably now sit back and live off the fruits of their labor, but they are in there hands-on for all the tour busses that come through. And the peregrinos get special attention and care.
 
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Hi Laurie,
We enjoyed our stay in Casa Loncho, we had a double room, which was very comfortable. In 2018 it cost 45 Euros for a double room and 12 Euros for a bed in the Albergue. When we arrived we had a delicious bowl of lentil soup and glass of red wine, sitting outside. Struggling to remember what we did for dinner but think we had it on the terrace of the restaurant of Casa Loncho. Do remember going in to the restaurant for something before we left in the morning. Will remember your recommendation for As Pias, when we are allowed to walk again!
Best wishes,
Anne & Pat
 
I really enjoyed my stay there. Very relaxing sitting on that lovely little balcony mid-afternoon with tea & cake and my book. They were such kind hardworking people. As I was leaving in the morning, the woman gave me a bag with an orange, some cheese and bread. "For energy in your day" she said.
 


Vegetable garden in Villanueva de la Oca. A delight to see this because it meant I was able to arrive on safe grounds after quite a descent from a very steep part on the Vasco Interior.
@VNwalking took another road into the village so I was very much aware that I had to be very careful seeing it would take some time before someone else would see me.

Vitoria/Gasteiz - La Puebla de Arganzón | Camino Vasco del Interior | Gronze.com

Salimos de Vitoria por amables avenidas; luego, a partir de Gometxa, avanzamos por monte en un recorrido bonito y solitario. A la salida de Subijana ascendemos al Portillo de San Miguel, en una subida progresiva de 200 metros de desnivel; la bajada, sin embargo, es pronunciada y pedregosa. En...
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This etapa from Vitoria to la Puebla de Arganzon does not have any facilities to stop for a drink ( except from a gasstation off piste ) till you reach la Puebla de Arganzon.

And then in this tiny village this church!

Church of San Pedro of Villanueva de la Oca - Álava Medieval / Erdi Aroko Araba

Saint Peter’s parish church is a building that has undergone various transformations throughout time. Most of the elements that we see today are due to the restructuring suffered during the 18th century.
alavamedieval.com
 
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Camino Way markers in Bronze
The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.
Just after Morgade on the CF, and just before reaching the 100 km marker, this rather considerate section of El Camino is encountered. I appreciated being able to keep my feet dry on this cool April morning.

 
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SabineP said:
@VNwalking took another road
Click to expand...
I'd been lollygagging up the hill, wowed by the flora, so I was well behind Sabine and went another way altogether:
At the top of the hill there was a junction and it was unclear for quite a distance if the way I went was right because there weren't any waymarks, so I dithered, going back and forth to make sure of myself. Finally (!relief!) there was a powerline and another arrow. It went straight down the hill after that but it was not hairy at all. And there were still distractions.

 
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WOW that's a very modern Parador with a stunning location. I only stayed at one (in León) for a luxury rest day and was quite pleasantly surprised at the cost - wasn't nearly as expensive as I'd imagined. Mind you we didn't get the luxury accommodations they portrayed in the movie "The Way"
 
I finally found another bear I could converse with ... whew, I'm not alone on the Camino Frances in 2013. I'm certain many others like me make the journey. C'mon ... come out of hiding and let me see you.
 

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Villarmentaro de Campos.

photo taken November 14, 2013




Candid Camera


November 2013 on the CF I met this Korean photographer who had been hired to film the solitude of long distance camino walkers.

Setting off unprepared, trying to cover 30km a day, carrying more than 8 kilos in her pack plus a heavy expensive camera and a notebook computer, she was overloaded/well out of her comfort zone!

Although she really needed a sherpa for three days I served as her shepherd(ress). We stayed in smaller albergues, ate well, walked 20km max per day, took long siestas and laughed a lot.

She particularly enjoyed shooting this 'art brut' pilgrim sculpture lost in a meadow near Villarmentaro de Campos.

Unhappily our easy way was cut short since she was due in Leon when 80km away. Hence she caught the bus to get back on schedule!!

...Easy does it is better camino attitude.
 
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Not a very good photo, unfortunately, of a side altar in the Santuario da Virxe da Barca, Muxia, of Santiago. June, 2018. Luckily we were able to enter the sanctuary on this visit, it was closed in 2014 on our last visit due to refurbishment following being struck by lightning and a fire.
 
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Working backwards in time from yesterday's photo, here's the contrast with the rest of the village; you can barely see the red house in the center distance. I loved the vibe of this place, with it's very friendly social center cum bar. It has long since been cut off from passing traffic by the divided highway, so now people zoom right past without a second glace. Literally, blink and you miss it.
 

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Just outside Portomarin (yes in Galicia @JohnLloyd ) and it snowed, and it rained, and it blew, and it was cold! When I made a comment about the inclement weather to a restaurateur as I ordered a steaming cup of Cola Cao he just looked at me and said "Well, what did you expect? It's April!"

 
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Frómista
Canal de Castilla Esclusa cuádruple

photo taken November 13, 2012



Mid-Point

Constructed 1753-1849 to transport wheat by barge the Canala de Castilla
was most used during 1850-1870. Locks were decommissioned in the 20th c. Declared
Bien de interés cultural 1991; today it irrigates 48 municipalities and the canalside pathways are used for recreation.

Thus it came to be that the Camino Frances passes by parts of the Canal and I had this photo taken celebrating a successful descent by the four huge Fromista locks.

This was the imaginary mid-point of my 8th CF. After four weeks of walking roughly 6 hours per day while always carrying my loaded pack (6.5 kilos) I was as fit as might be hoped for 73.

.....All I need now as then
is continued luck, tenacity and endurance. Ultreia!
 
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Let us pick up your suitcase once you arrive in Europe....
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As El Camino leaves Ponferrada it crosses the Rio Sil, and from the bridge over the river you can look back for a look at the castillo from another angle. The church tower to the left is Nuestra Señora de la Encina.

 
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Between Frómista and Carión de los Condes, the camino crosses through a protected natural area and ZEPA - Zone of Special Protection for Birds. Along the way there are signs describing the flora and fauna. The signs (these ones after the Canal de Castilla) were unique, providing the information in braille! Especially wonderful were the embossed images on the signs. The bird depicted is the Great Bustard, Queen of the Plain.

 
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O Hospital
Hospital da Cruz albergue

photo taken December 3, 2012



What's on the floor?

This picture shows how I organized my autumn/winter kit within an albergue dorm.; it was easy to use space above/below a bottom bunk.

on bed post;
jacket/hat.

on top bunk;
clothes worn air,
seersucker bath towel dries.

on bed;
sleeping bag unrolled,
"office' envelope holds diary, pen, and head lamp.

beneath bunk;
walking stick and boots,
nylon stuff sac/plastic bag for sleeping bag,
plastic sac for hiking socks worn today/useful tomorrow,
soft white bag holds toiletries,
water bottle filled for night-time sipping.

end wall:
sandals,
back-pack, never totally unpacked.

Early morning I quickly donned walking clothes, socks and boots, placed into the back-pack my 'evening' clothes, sandals, toiletries bag, and 'office' envelope, plus the rolled/stuffed sleeping bag.

Eager for breakfast I often packed in the dark!!
 
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JohnLloyd said:
an early morning mist on the way out of Portomarín.
Click to expand...
Haha, I have this photo too.

Phoenix said:
but there's just something about this one that captures the Camino for me
Click to expand...
It does it for me too. Gorgeous!

Still farther back from yesterday's pic, coming into Ameyugo.
I love crossing a main highway on an overpass, pausing to watch with wonderment the astonishing speed of people zipping here and there! And feeling very lucky, being able to plod along at an old-fashioned pace, experiencing what they miss.
 

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Let us pick up your suitcase once you arrive in Europe....
...and ship it to Santiago for storage. You pick it up once in Santiago. Service offered by Casa Ivar (we use DHL for transportation).
I appreciated the many different sculptures of Santiago encountered along the Camino. Each one was, for me, an affirmation that this is indeed "the way" and they complemented the mileposts, yellow arrows, and scallop shells very nicely. Here is Santiago pointing the way as you leave Villafranca del Bierzo.

 
Near Monesterio, Extremadura on the Via de la Plata. In May 2018 the wildflowers were beautiful. On this day the purple against the clear green of the grass, the sky palettes of blue and white, the tracery of trees, perfection. And then - a horse peacefully grazing.

 
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Trinidad de Arre
Marist monastery/albergue

photo taken January 28, 2009



Sheltered by my escort's large umbrella pausing to photograph this ancient stone foot bridge at Trinidad de Arre on the Camino Frances was a joy although damp.

Earlier that wet day I had walked worrying about an area (Barbacoa Esteribar) crossed in prior years where the camino mounted steeply and clung to a gravel slope; such a path could be dangerous in pouring rain!

Near Puente de Irotz had appeared a slim fellow half-hidden beneath his open umbrella. Although hardly weather for strolling, living nearby he had walked to see the roiling Agra. We chatted about river whirlpools, slippery paths, and dangerous climbs.

Suggesting we both follow the paved cyclist path parallel to the river he shared his umbrella. He then kindly escorted me safely to the monastery door at Trinidad de Arre; the hospitable monk who knew him greeted us warmly offering tea.

How lucky it was for me that we had met and chatted that rainy January day; this is another momento of camino serendipity.

.
 
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Camino Ready, Backpacks, Boots etc
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The photo shows El Camino on the way to Torres del Rio on the CF. In my youth I did a lot of back country camping and canoe-camping in Northern Quebec and Ontario. But the days when I could carry my tent and food for a week-long adventure are long gone. These days, because I live close to the Bruce Trail in Ontario, I can be enjoying some "Camino-like" moments in a matter of minutes. In Europe, when I was walking El Camino, several people asked me why I came to Spain to walk since I had access to the Appalachian Trail, the Pacific Coast Trail, and the aforementioned but lesser known Bruce Trail in North America. The simple one-word answer to that question was easy ... "albergues!" But the real answer lies a lot deeper, and for me, as I believe it would be for many pilgrims, it is intensely personal.

 
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The Abbey of Eskirotz and Ilarratz, also known as the Iglesia Parroquial de Santa Lucia, a few km after Zubiri. It looked abandoned and partially in ruin when I was there in Sept. 2012, though the tiny graveyard was tended. It is now owned privately and being restored.

La Abadía soñada de Neill Le Roux

Una antigua Abadía abandonada que originalmente fue una iglesia románica del siglo XII vinculada a los monjes benedictinos. Un sudafricano jubilado y su sueño d
www.diariodenavarra.es

 
Theatregal,
What a splendid place for re-purposing! I wonder how the work has progressed. Have you seen this web?
 
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mspath said:
Theatregal,
What a splendid place for re-purposing! I wonder how the work has progressed. Have you seen this web?
Click to expand...
Yes - I've seen their site. As soon as I can walk again, I would love to visit them and maybe help out for a bit. Although there are other routes I've wanted to walk before returning to the Frances again, I'm feeling drawn to it as 2022 will be ten years since I first walked the camino. There are so many places along the Frances that I've learned about and researched - places I missed or didn't pay attention to when I first walked.
 
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Torres del Rio

photo taken February 14, 2007



After crossing cold vineyards beneath a blustery winter sky walking to Sansol I took this view of nearby Torres del Rio encircled by the rio Linares and riverside vegetation.

On the extreme right of the view amidst other rooftops rises the tower of the small octagonal Romanesque church, Santo Sepulcro.

In the distant middle view soars the tower of the Iglesia San Andres. Further west the camino path will cross a deep ravine, Mataburros/Mule Killer(!), leading towards Viana.
 
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Camino Ready, Backpacks, Boots etc
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More 2024 Camino Guides available
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October 2, 2012. One of those camino mornings still sharp in my memory. I left Rabanal del Camino in the dark / soon dawn and arrived in Foncebadón about an hour after sunrise with the full moon still visible. Beautiful light entering the village with a little donkey to greet me on the path.

 
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Hontanas
private albergue dorm

photo taken November 9, 2014




Mud prevailed the last time I followed the Camino Frances across the vast open space west of Burgos known as the Meseta; it was a solitary/slippery/cold trudge.

In Hontanas much was closed. Luckily the private El Puntido albergue was open. After their copious/delicious lunch I was alone in this comfy dorm. Well heated and spotless the showers had marble floors and limitless hot water; I took a siesta and slept until breakfast!...True bliss.

Read this for the next morning
 
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