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On the Camino: One Day at a Time, one Photo at a Time 5.0

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The monastery has long vanished, leaving the solitary Ermita de San Miguel Arcángel from the 10th or 11th century, just outside the pueblo of Villatuerta on the CF towards Estella. This church is one of the oldest in Navarre. Such a peaceful setting. From what I understand, on the feast day of St. Michael (September 29), the townsfolk come here for mass, and a picnic in a recreational area next to the church. What a nice way to celebrate a Saint!

 
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wayfarer said:
On the way down to Castrojeriz. 04/05/12

View attachment 99379
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Hi Wayfarer,
Here is our photo of the same view taken 8th, September, 2014 but we think it's taken from the Alto Meseta at 950m looking to Hornillos del Camino. We walked from Burgos to Hornillos del Camino that day. Your photo is a lot greener than ours. Both photos appear to be taken from the same vantage point.
 
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Saint Jean Pied de Port
Peppers

photo taken October 10, 2011



Basque seasoning

Red Espelette peppers provide a piquant taste in Basque cooking as a major ingredient in traditional piperade/pepper stew or as dry flakes sprinkled as seasoning.

On the Camino Frances several simple restos in Saint Jean Pied de Port, Arneguy and Valcarlos serve this hearty country fare.

This type of pepper is named for the town Espelette about 35 km NW of SJPdP; Chili pepper seeds were introduced to France during the 16th c. by seamen returning from Central /South America.
 
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mspath said:
This type of pepper is named for the town Espelette about 35 km NW of SJPdP; Chili pepper seeds were introduced to France during the 16th c. by seamen returning from Central /South America.
Click to expand...
Esplette is on the Baztanes, where we rolled in one afternoon like 5 drowned mice after a drenching day from Bayonne. It was a very pretty town, and there were peppers hanging everywhere. But because of the heavy rain, I took no photos. Here is the next town along, Ainhoa, the next morning when we saw the first sun après le deluge.
 
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Thanks for this shot! I have always dreamed of walking the Baztanes especially when using red pepper flakes.
 
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Thanks guys, I will check my notes again. I walked in April/May, everything was green.

EDIT: You guys are right, the photo was taken the day we walked from Burgos to Hontanas.
Thank you @Anne&Pat
 
Cirueña on the CF. One of my favorite breakfasts ... Tortilla de patata, olives, and Cola Cao to keep away the cold. I liked it because it stayed with me for a few hours. And although I had tortilla de patata several times, it never came the same way twice! It's a very adaptable recipe, and I absolutely loved all the local variations. This one came with hot peppers ... perhaps peppers from Esplette? When I returned home I looked up a recipe and cooked one up for the family, along with a Tarta de Santiago of course! Both were hits!

 
Viana , my favorite town on the CF
Anik2001 said:
View attachment 99390

Plaza Los Fueros in Viana. Viewed from the window of the refugio. It sprung to life after the siesta, with people talking and drinking and kids running around, playing and shouting. I loved that small town life on the camino.
Click to expand...
My favourite town on the CF
 
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I admired the many different ways in which not only the general population of Spain acknowledge El Camino through their use of logos on businesses, signs, etc. but even various levels of government get in on the act with statues, sellos, areas de descanso, etc. I took this photo in O Pedrouzo, showing of all things, the cover of a storm sewer! I thought this one was particularly noteworthy because of the double use of the scallop shell theme. I think it would be a rather significant undertaking to design and cast these covers, never mind the myriad approvals that would be mandated by the bureaucracy of any level of government.


 
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There were actually two things that disappointed me while walking the Camino. The first was the amount of litter that is visible, particularly in areas well away from a pueblo or ciudad. Despite signs imploring peregrinos to respect the Camino, litter persisted. On the other hand, maybe the signs were having some effect in reducing the amount of litter. Imagine if there were no signs! The second thing that bothered me was the amount of graffiti. I mean, how many times do we have to know that "Kilroy was here!". For example, here is a photo of the underside of the bunk above me in Ribadiso. Not even a square centimeter available for me to write in!

 
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Pamplona
Citadel, guardhouse

photo taken October 16, 2011




Entering historic Pamplona
via the puente de la Magdeleina
then strolling along the paseo Vergel I saw
this Baluarte de Redin/Guadalupe.

A baluarte/rempart/bulwark
is a structure which projects outward from the defensive curtain wall of a fortification.

Facing north towards France this is one section of the once extensive five-pointed-star-shaped 16th c. Pamplona citadel
 
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Castrojeriz. Rory's guide book recommended saving some energy for the climb up the Alto de Mostelares that one encounters leaving Castrojeriz. I am sure those of you who have done the CF will remember this hill. There are nice views from the top, a short mesa, and then a descent into "the granaries of Spain".

 
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I'm a bear and nobody ever thought I'd get a Compostela ... because I actually just hitch a ride in the backpack of my "Mum". So imagine how surprised I was when the kind woman at the Santiago compostela office suggested she could make me a Compostela from a postcard. After all, I had covered 800km. I think "Mum" was even more chuffed than me
 

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VNwalking said:
In Cirauqui; I could look it up but someone here probably can explain what this is and the symbols on it.
View attachment 99643
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Stele funeraria in memory of Don Martyn Yryarte, died in 1658 at Puente Urbe (Navarra). The stele was transferred from Puente Urbe to Cirauqui. I retrieved this info from a source on Flickr. Simply search the term "Don Martyn Yryarte" I am having trouble pasting the link for some reason.

No info on the symbols, but seeing as this is essentially a gravestone, these are probably family symbols. Also, from other research I found, I believe the inscription reads Don Martyn de Yryarte (sometimes spelled as Iryarte, as well as Iriarte, or Yriarte). So now you have a start.

More potential info: Puente Urbe is probably Puente de San Urbez, there is also a monastery https://es.wikipedia.org/wiki/Puente_de_San_Úrbez
 
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O Cebreiro
snow

photo taken November 29, 2012



After climbing 5 cold hours this photo was taken with great joy/relief upon arrival!
Cognac plus a late second breakfast came next in the surprisingly open/warm cafe.

For more re that snowy walk see
this earlier post
 
SabineP said:
View attachment 99628

San Justo de la Vega. Village before Astorga ( you can see it far away ). CF 2011.
I stayed at Hostal Juli , a nice place that also serves good food.
Picture taken from my hostalroom.
Click to expand...
Funny Sabine, we have no remembrance of passing through this village in 2014. We walked from Villares de Orbigo to Muras de Rechivaldo that day. It was raining of and on, so we must have had our heads down! Do remember Astorga!
 
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Imagine how surprised I was on reaching Finisterre and finding a discarded bottle of wine on the red pylon. Who would have guessed that anybody produced a "Bronte" label wine ... an omen? Me thinks so! I didn't try it and "Mum & Dad" left it where they found it.
 

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We left Castrojeriz on a cold Tuesday morning in early April, and stopped in Boadillo del Camino for some Cola Cao hot chocolate and warmth before the final push to Fromista. About 2 km after Boadilla, the Camino meets the Canal de Castilla, an irrigation canal for the farms. The canal revived the towns in the area by providing irrigation water. The main canal is large enough to accommodate a boat, that for 2 measly Euros will take pilgrims on a leisurely cruise for the last 5 kms into Fromista! Hooray! Care to guess the only day of the week that the boat does not run? You got it … Tuesday! So we walked beside the canal into Fromista, accompanied by the swallows who were continually swooping and skimming the water.

 
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A few of these texts were posted along the way during our second day from Ferrol to Santiago.

"The pilgrim sets out each day to encounter the mystery, uncertain of what will happen in the course of the day, but it is done with courage, humility, hope, because (they) know that this is how life is: surprising, disconcerting and exciting."
The smaller text reads: 'There is no WIFI on the Camino, but I assure you of the very best Connection.'
 
Sarria
donkey

photo taken December 1, 2012




All packed and ready to go !

If donkey travel intrigues you
read Robert Louis Stevenson's classic 1879 Travels with a Donkey in the Cevennes.

Modestine, his donkey, had a heavy load to carry including RLS's fur-lined self-designed sleeping bag.

Today the GR70 in SE France follows their route.
 
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As you leave Carrion de los Condes along Calle San Zollo, this art made of crushed coloured stone is visible from the Camino. I saw a few of this type of art in different pueblos and appreciated them for acknowledging and expressing the town's connection to El Camino.

 
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I don't think the "publican" at Bar Elvis in Reliegos (25km before Leon) had ever come across a bear pilgrim. I think he likes me! Certainly a quirky stop on the Camino Frances.
 

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Bill905 said:
I saw a few of this type of art in different pueblos and appreciated them for acknowledging and expressing the town's connection
Click to expand...
Even the smallest villages on the Via de Bayona/Vasco had signboards, which were quite helpful. But they weren't art. On the Frances, one town that stands out in my memory is Vilar de Mazarife, for its beautiful sign as you enter the town.
 
SabineP said:
Beer and one of the daily ( free) tapas at Pub Agarimo in Santiago de Compostela. They also serve good breakfasts.
A friendly place!
The joy of sitting at one of the outside high tables and see the pilgrims coming into the old town.
Click to expand...
A favourite place!
 
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Where did you stay in VdM? I always stayed at Tio Pepe's next to the church with storks. Their food was great.
 
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mspath said:
Where did you stay in VdM? I always stayed at Tio Pepe's next to the church with storks. Their food was great.
Click to expand...

And they are immensely kind also. I fell asleep with a cold pack on my knee ( and the protection cloth fell off ) . Result : massive coldblister. Looked horrible. They gave me a cream for healing.
Only three pilgrims that night in March.
 
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Given the lovely people who man the office love translating our names to Latin should he not be Bronte Ursa?
 
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Leon
San Marcos Parador

photo taken March 8, 2007




This view dates from my third camino.

San Marcos Monastery was originally built 12th-16th c. as a pilgrims' shelter/hospice.

Mid 20th c. it became a super-deluxe parador hotel.

Closed 2017-2020 for an extensive restoration,
December 3, 2020 the Parador reopened in splendor.
 
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David61 said:
Given the lovely people who man the office love translating our names to Latin should he not be Bronte Ursa?
Click to expand...
Not sure David61 and honestly I've never noticed the "mistake". Since your post I've Googled "bear" in Latin and have come across "ursus" for bear and "ursa" for she-bear (presumably female). Bronte is a male bear so maybe is should have read "ursus"??? Thanks for bringing it to my attention.
 
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Even a bear gets tired and deserves a little comfort after almost 500km on the Camino. The perfect spot? The Parador San Marcos in Leon. I've never slept so well!
 

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A golden morning between Hornillos del Camino and Hontanas. I met people walking with donkeys several times during this camino in 2012. After the first encounter, I would never meet them again along the way or in Santiago. They would be camping or staying at a farm that allowed them the use of a stable or pasture.

 
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east of the Cruz de Santo Toribio
Casa de los Dioses

photo taken October 10, 2013




All we need is love

This vibrant graffiti partly covered an ad hoc shelter at the Casa de los Dioses, a remote haven of camino caritas.

On the inland CF path west of Santibanez de Valdeiglesias/east of the Cruz de Santo Toribio amidst a vast plain with sweeping vistas David Vidal created/maintained his simple oasis.

He offered friendly conversation plus a seat and coffee, tea, juices, fruits and cookies to those who passed by; all that was so willingly provided he carried in, for there was neither running water nor a garden.

What was most plentiful at the
Casa de los Dioses was David's special spirit and unconditional, selfless love.
 
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We met him in 2017 and had the most wonderful watermelon he provided. He is a gem!
 
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