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On the Camino: One Day at a Time, one Photo at a Time 5.0

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Two today. A breakfast for a Sunday although we were there during a weekday.
Casa do Cruceiro in Raices (Ames ) . Fifteen k. before Santiago de Compostela. On the CP 2015.
A couple of days after Porto I met a fellow pilgrim, also someone called Sabine ( Germany ) and we walked separately but did seem to cover the same distances so regularly we would stay in the same hostal or shared an albergue.
So enough fuel with that breakfast to have an early arrival in Santiago!
I see the place is now on a bookingsite but we just called.

casa do cruceiro |

casadocruceiro.com

Padrón - Santiago de Compostela | Camino Portugués Central | Gronze.com

Esta última etapa del Camino Portugués transcurre en buena parte por asfalto y zonas urbanizadas, siguiendo, cómo no, la nacional N-550, la cual hoy cruzamos hasta cuatro veces. En cuanto a desniveles, cabe mencionar el moderado y progresivo ascenso al Agro dos Monteiros, en O Milladoiro. En el...
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There are 70 churches with twisted spires in France. Not many people know that. There are societies and websites purely devoted to the subject of twisted spires - most of them based in England, a fact I attribute to there no longer being steam locomotives operating on British railways. This one is located between Auch and Ile de Noé, but I failed to note down the name of the village and none of the 70 listed in Wikipedia seems to match it exactly. Perhaps there are 71 twisted spires in France, perhaps I can become an honorary member of the Spire Spotters club. But I doubt it. If there is anybody who knows where this church is, I am prepared to bet good money they are lurking somewhere on this forum. Photo taken July 18 2019.

 
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dick bird said:
There are societies and websites purely devoted to the subject of twisted spires
Click to expand...
This Forum is wonderful. I had no idea such things existed - neither the twisted spire-spotters nor the twisted spires themselves. Thanks Dick - I learned two things today. But I have no idea where that is. I bet @mspath would, though.


A beautiful old lintel from O Foxo (advertising the local blacksmith?), just past Silleda on the Invierno. There may be cobwebs, but that flash metal door is new since Google Street View rolled past.
 

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VN,
I will look later today; right now Bill and I are enjoying our first Sunday lunch in a restaurant since March 2020. Carpe diem!

PS. We are waiting for our dessert so I just found this article which may be helpful later.
 
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Carrion dos Condes, on the CF
Real Monasterio Santa Clara
hospederia

photo taken November 14, 2012



This exterior view of nearby monastery roofs aglow in the autumn sunshine was shot through the window of my cell-like room in the Santa Clara hospederia.
Later during that mid-November night the unheated hospederia interior was frigid.
 
mspath said:
VN,
Bingo ! That twisted spire is in Barran. See this text.
Also see this citation re Barran.
Click to expand...
Brilliant, and much thanks. Twisted spires are a thing. I didn't know that, I mainly invented that stuff about twisted spire spotters, but it is true, they exist. Barran also has a supermarket, which you'll be very pleased to know if you are passing through. In the nineteenth century, Barran was famous for its snails, but not any more. One day, maybe, we'll be back. In the meantime, here is a tree not far from Barran, minding its own business in a field, 19 July 2019 and I sincerely hope it is still there because it is a very nice tree.
 
Camino Way markers in Bronze
The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.
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kirkie said:
CP 2013; sorry am posting two photos: the first one was taken about three before the second one, but I forget the exact location. Early in Spain after crossing from Portugal is as close as I can guess.
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Hi Kirkie,
Here are a couple of our photos of the same bridge, Ponte Sampaio, which is over the rio Verdugo bulit in 1795 over earlier foundations, as you are leaving Arcade. "It was here that local militia inflicted a significant rout on Napoleon's troops during the War of Independence, witnessed by a memorial at the far side." A direct quote from Brierley's guidebook! And the information board at the end of the bridge. Sorry 3 photos!
 
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One city, two worlds.
León at 5:40 on a Saturday morning: Pilgrims starting out early to beat the June heat while some locals are only just going home from a Friday night out.
(Taken in June 2017)

 
JohnLloyd said:
Perhaps only defeated by the houses on the river at St-Jean-Pied-de-Port?

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Definitely the iconic photo of SJPDP ... and we couldn't wait to get our own image of it. Fabulous in late afternoon sun and haunting in the early morning mist on the day we made our way to Roncesvalles.
 

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I knew it! I just knew someone would have the answer! Thank you so very much!
EDIT: and somewhere deep in the mists of time, my history classes in school, and Sir John Moore, and Into the Valley of Death... they all figure somewhere. When will we ever learn, when will we ever learn??``/
 
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Église Saint-Christophe, Saint Cristaud. Presumably the name of the village is the same as that of the church but in a different dialect. I am very proud of myself having just identified it through Google Earth. It's actually a very odd-looking church, just poking up on top of a hill away from any village and the design is unlike any other church I have seen.

 
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dick bird,
Indeed. A great picture of a great building.
Read more about it here.

Eglise Saint-Christophe à Saint-Christaud - PA00094911

Le Monument Historique Eglise Saint-Christophe, référence PA00094911, est situé 5002 A Le Pete 32320 Saint-Christaud
monumentum.fr
 
Theatregal said:
The steady climb leaving Ourense.

View attachment 105199
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I remember it well, especially having missed the turn and ended up by a preserved/abandoned steam locomotive in the middle of the road. But the view when we finally made it was our reward.


Thank you so much. We didn't have time to have a close look, and it was closed, but it intrigued me because of its height and square-looking proportions and use of brick, both completely untypical from my extremely limited knowledge of mediaeval French churches. I thought it could even be 19th but I was way out there.
 
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I very rarely look up the internet when I am walking the Camino, but today the stretch between Astorga and Rabanal, which always was a solid line of people, is so EMPTY that I started to look at the forum if some mega lockdown has been introduced or something...
 
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Bending the rules a little, but they are all the same place, Morlaás, Église de Ste Foy. The church has quite a chequered history. It was built in 1080 by the local viscount Centule V, overlord of Béarn in penance for having contracted a marriage with a lady from a very good family - it just happened to be his family. It was burnt down twice in the 16th century during religious conflicts and was abandoned in the early 19th. It was restored by Viollet-le-Duc, the renowned French Gothic revivalist, so some of the carvings may be copies of the original. It is now a church again and a historical monument as of 1979. We were there on a Sunday and the entire population seemed to have been abducted by aliens, except for the teenagers who had taken refuge in the local swimming pool, adjacent to the municipal camp site and worst maintained albergue I have ever stayed in.
 
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April 2019, on the CF after Morgade, and just before reaching the 100 km marker. My good Camino companions from Ireland and Denmark just ahead of me as I dawdle along taking pictures like this. And now, these days, planning a return trip because one Camino is not nearly enough! But methinks I am preaching to the choir. O, to be on the way again!

 
Santuario da Peregrina was built in a square of the historic centre of Pontevedra in 1778. It was declared an historic-artistic site in 1982. It combines the late Baroque style with Neoclassical designs, such as the main altarpiece from 1789, and has become one of the most symbolic and relevant buildings of the city.
It is dedicated to the Virgin, who is said to have guided pilgrims from Baiona to Santiago. The Pilgrim Virgin is the patron of the province of Pontevedra and the Portuguese pilgrimage route to Santiago.
The floor plan is in the shape of a scallop shell, symbol of the Camino de Santiago (‘Way of Saint James’), with a cross inside. It contains a holy water font in the form of a mollusc shell brought from the Pacific by Méndez Núñez. The statue on the high altar comes from French pilgrims who were on their way to Santiago. A beautiful 18th C Chapel, conceived by the architect Arturo Souto. May, 2016.
 
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The first day out of Irun on the Camino Vasco Interior 2019.
Everywhere you looked there were grey clouds.
And rain ! Lots of rain. Luckily it was not that cold.
On the Gronze website I read about an asador-bar in Iturriotz but it was closed although a lady was cleaning outside.
So we stopped for a while at a busshelter and then marched on to Astigarraga. On the way we also saw some nice glimpses of the Bay of Biscay and San Sebastian. The Camino Vasco interior and the Camino del Norte are at that point very close together.

Irún - Hernani | Camino Vasco del Interior | Gronze.com

La etapa transcurre en un entorno básicamente rural; no han de pasar muchos kilómetros para disfrutar de las típicas estampas de los valles verdes y húmedos del País Vasco, entre cuyos bosques aparecen los grandes y blancos caseríos rodeados de prados para la ganadería. Hoy los desniveles son...
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The simple and beautiful 12th century Iglesia San Martiño de Dornelas, on the Invierno/Sanabres.
I was sorry not to be able to go inside to see the remarkablew wooden ceiling.
Many photos on this blog:

Iglesia Románica de San Martiño de Dornelas. En Silleda, Provincia de Pontevedra.

1000-lugares-en-galicia.blogspot.com

I can't make sense of the inscription. Can anyone help?
A caption in the link above says it's an Agnus Dei, which has me scratching my head.
 

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VN,
Agnès Dei in Latin or in English Lamb of God, designates Jesus. It is based on the saying of John the Baptist: “Behold, the Lamb of God, who takes away the sin of the world!” (John 1:29).
 
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mspath said:
VN,
Agnès Dei in Latin or in English Lamb of God, designates Jesus. It is based on the saying of John the Baptist: “Behold, the Lamb of God, who takes away the sin of the world!” (John 1:29).
Click to expand...
Thank you! I hoped you would see this question, Margaret.
I should have been clearer about why I'm scratching my head. It's not the meaning, but the inscription itself.
I don't see any part of this in there at all:
Agnus Dei, qui tollis peccata mundi, miserere nobis.
Agnus Dei, qui tollis peccata mundi, dona nobis pacem.
What am I missing?
 
VN,
Just as you posted your thanks I was looking at the photo in question. Indeed I see the cross on the pinion or apex point of the roof but can not see at all clearly the stone on which it is set.

Perhaps this reference
and especially the footnotes may be of some help
 
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Embarrasing. I was reading the wrong caption.
It is this (in bold):

And I can sort of see a lamb at the base of that cross. It takes a little imagination.
 
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Samos, on the CF
Monastery of San Julian
mural detail

photo taken November 10, 2004



Fantastic and historic figures painted c.1955 surround an Oratorium door

Parts of the Benedictine monastery complex are 9th c., but the majority was built in the 16th /17th c. Much, however, was rebuilt after a 1951 fire. My 2004 guided view of these new murals which line interior corridors was most impressive and rather frightening.
 
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Snap! There was something about that doorway. I even took another picture 3 years later passing through at the end of the Invierno. Can't help with the inscription, I.m afraid.
 
Cheating again, but same church - former cathedral of Our Lady of the Assumption, Lescar, burial place of the last kings and queens of Navarre. Again, knocked about a lot by angry Protestants. Some unique Romanesque mosaics, apparently, but I missed them, too busy looking at the ceiling. The albergue in Lescar is wonderful, and the hospis kindness itself.

 
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Following the route after the totie little bridge.. the 'fingers' on this tree reminded me of a little girl I taught. She was unable to work out why she never got five when counting on her fingers. She would shake her hand and start over...

 
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Vilar de Donas
Iglesia de San Salvador
door

photo taken November 13, 2004



A doorway to eternal rest

East of Palas de Rei in Vilar de Donas near Portos on the CF the 12th century Iglesia de San Salvador was the official burial place of the Chevaliers de Santiago for several centuries.

Extraordinary iron fittings support the wooden panels of the great entrance door; within delicate 15th century frescos surround tombs topped with recumbent effigies of the knights.

When I visited in 2004 restoration had just begun.

From Portos on the CF it is a 30 minute 2.4 km walk following the LU P 4005 crossing attractive undulating countryside thick with low walls, oak, pine and gorse.

...Almost hidden in the verdant countryside San Salvador de Donas was, and hopefully still is, a special site filled with eternal peace .
 
CF April 2019 between Santibañez de Valdeiglesias and Astorga - at this makeshift shrine, the message on the stone below the yellow arrow directs one to Marcos 12: 28 - 34, a story I thought about quite a lot over the course of the Camino ... and as a pilgrim, opportunities to practice the second of those two commandments presented themselves each day.

 
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St Oloron, a very pretty little town with a good albergue. A lot of the pilgrims there were heading for Lourdes. This is inside the Église St. Croix. It is nice that so many churches in France were open. I understand why so many have to be kept locked up in Spain but it is still sad. The font cover has a reflection of the window at the top of the frame of the other picture. July 24th 2019.

 
Mansilla de las Mulas, CF April 2019 - here is a *fond* albergue memory for everyone. Look at how many bunk beds fill the sleeping quarters! We can presume that in future there will be more social distancing. Personally, I was quite pleased with the bunk beds ... they brought back memories of my youth growing up with 8 siblings. We had a few bunk beds! But that was 60 years ago! Consequently, while on the Camino I preferred the lower bunk whenever possible!

 
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With wonderful hospitalera Laura, the queen of blistertreatment!
When I stayed there in 2011 I had the luxury of a rather big dorm with only three bunkbeds and two other pilgrims in the room. We could all three take a lower bunkbed.
 
Like most of us (I suspect), in my head I am still that excitable 8 year old that thought the top bunk the height of adventurousness. It also allows my partner to give me a hearty poke when I snore
 
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After Oloron, the Pyrenees are a continual, ever closer presence until they begin to loom over you and you think 'Have I got to walk through that?' In the meantime, the Vallée d' Aspe is green and lush, so we made the most of it. Good walking along the GR with just the occasional bit of road. 25th July 2019.
 
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FourSeasons said:
The Holy Door, Santiago de Compostela. I walked through on May 5, 2016. Holy Year of Mercy. God Bless us, everyone. Happy St James Day today July 25, 2021 Holy Year of Compostela.
View attachment 105599View attachment 105600View attachment 105601
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Yes, we walked through the day before when we arrived in Santiago and everyday thereafter until we left a few days later. We were very blessed to be able to do this, weren’t we? Your photos are very similar to ours.
 
Anne&Pat said:
Yes, we walked through the day before when we arrived in Santiago and everyday thereafter until we left a few days later. We were very blessed to be able to do this, weren’t we? Your photos are very similar to ours.
Click to expand...
I saw your photo first then decided to follow. Yes, very blessed indeed. I too walked through many times. Lord knows I need His Mercy. I was so happy to hear that 2016 was declared a Holy Year when I was doing my Camino prep. Lovely memories.
 
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Camino Way markers in Bronze
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Today the theme speaks for itself.
Happy St James Day to one and all.
The Holy Door, from the inside, firmly shut. 2014. When it was open for the Year of Mercy, Taking a photo was not something I felt like doing. It was more about compassion...
 

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Sometimes it nice to meet and chat to one of your own kind. He wasn't walking, he says, because he couldn't find a backpack large enough! On other occasions it's just nice to chat ... though I really didn't have a lot in common with the Barcelos chicken.
 

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Let us pick up your suitcase once you arrive in Europe....
...and ship it to Santiago for storage. You pick it up once in Santiago. Service offered by Casa Ivar (we use DHL for transportation).
Bronte DownUnder said:
Interesting perspective. I remember thinking that the last thing I needed after arriving in SJPDP was the steep descent into the village.
Click to expand...
Thx. I took several at the time then thought how most of our photos are taken from appx 5-6' above ground. I wondered what it would look like if the camera was on or near the ground. This photo is the result; the stones leap to the forefront and the lines of the buildings on either side move toward convergence.
 
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Zubiri
Calle Puente de la Rabia
photo taken January 26, 2009



Both sides of the calle frame this snow covered view of the medieval bridge. I shot through a window in the cozy/warm Pension Usoa; the only place open that cold January afternoon.
 
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