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On the Camino: One Day at a Time, one Photo at a Time 4.0.

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I actually remember seeing this, so it must be our photo! We were two, and later merged photos for a couple of different shows to some friends. One group of my colleagues was looking for inspiration, and the following summer they set off for the first of four weeks over four years. Seems like 1000 years ago now.
 
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Sitting in Plaza Los Fueros in Estella having a beer after a hot days walking. Sound of the church bell of San Juan Bautista church was a call to reflect on life and be thankful. May 2015
 

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In Cirauqui, resting on a bench at the top of the hill with the cypress trees, I was joined by my new camino friends Mike and George. I left them to have their lunch and continued on my way, down the hill and over the remains of a Roman bridge. Soon after crossing the bridge, I followed the road to the left, looking back at a beautiful view of the town. I could see my friends at the top of the hill calling and waving. I waved back and continued along, following a lovely stone wall and olive grove on my right, enjoying this beautiful day. After a km or so I started to see only the imprint of tractor tires in the dirt path. No pilgrim footprints. No little holes from walking sticks. The path ended. Retracing my steps, I found the arrow I had missed, after the Roman bridge. When I met up with Mike and George in Lorca, we had such a great laugh! They had tried so hard from the top of that hill to call me back This wouldn't be the last time, on future caminos and lost in thought, that I would take an alternate path!

 
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Columbrianos, mural
photo taken November 16, 2010



This colorful mural is painted on one side of the Ermita de San Blas et San Roque; behind high on a pole is a storck's nest.

The small Ermita/Hermitage is dedicated to both San Blas and San Roque; two saints whose lives spanned 1000 years.

San Blas/St Blaise was a 4th c physician born in Armenia and is associated with curing throat disease.

San Roque/St Roch was born in 14th c. Montpellier, France; he went as a mendicant pilgrim to Rome and is
associated with curing the plague
 
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This pic was 6 months after my 2018 Camino in Chartres, France. I was on a "normal" vacation with the spouse when I suddenly spotted the markers (and then excitedly followed them through town). I had been to Chartres before, but never noticed the markers until this trip. It's as if my brain had been rewired to spot them. I still catch myself noticing yellow arrows on signs or buildings at home (but there are no Camino trails through Seattle, unless you subscribe to the philosophy that all Caminos begin at your front door). Buen Camino!
 
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April 11, 2019 - Carrion de los Condes to Terradillos de los Templarios - Meditation theme: Friendship
This is what we saw all day on La Meseta, either plowed fields or green fields, just flatness. Look closely at the photo, and you may be able to make out snow-capped mountains in the distance. That direction is north. Not too far past those mountains you would find the Bay of Biscay on the Atlantic Ocean, and El Camino Norte. I had known other Camino routes existed, but as I walked the Camino and encountered posters and maps that delineated the many different Camino routes, I became more impressed. It could even be imagined that “All roads lead to Santiago”!

 

That happened to me in my hometown, Plymouth.

After returning there on the Santander ferry, I was stunned to find an enormous scallop shell on the wall near the Mayflower Steps, marking the significance of Plymouth as a starting point for the English route.

Of course, I'd walked past it hundreds of times before...
 

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Camino Ready, Backpacks, Boots etc
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Chenahusky said:
Perhaps one day I will walk past late enough for a wine tasting and a sello. Co-op Vinas Bierzo, Camponaraya, just after Ponferrada.

View attachment 97410
Click to expand...
No need to worry about the time. If they are open enjoy the tasting and then collapse in the Area de Descanso para Peregrinos in the wood up the lane.

Carpe diem!
 
Interesting wall in Legrono. For those who have walked here note the cello of Felicia on his arm. Many will remember her and her daughter with their stand outside the house just before Legrono and their kindness to those passing. Sadly her daughter, who took over after her mothers death has now also passed away. RIP. No one to continue the legacy as far as I am aware. Photo taken May 2015
 
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The beautiful gate of the Albergue Andres Muñoz in Viana, memorable for it's triple tier bunk beds. When I stayed here in 2012, I had a middle bunk in the stack. At bedtime the people in the top bunks started climbing with various exclamations as they tried to navigate up. Someone in the room started to giggle and then someone else and soon the room of 12 pilgrims were all roaring with laughter. Finally everyone was settled and in the morning the laughter started again as people climbed down. Throughout the rest of the camino, when any one of us from that room encountered each other, it was with great laughs as we remembered that night. I've heard that the albergue no longer has the triple bunk system.

 
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Leon, Santa Maria cathedral, interior
photo taken November 11, 2011




Within the vast dim interior of Santa Maria cathedral the jewel-toned stained glass windows, Las Vidrieras, are glorious. These resplendent windows comprise one of the most extensive and best preserved collections of medieval stained glass in Europe.

For further information including the names of the renown glass craftsmen see this article

For further information re the architectural history of this magnificent Gothic cathedral, often called the Pulchra Leonina or House of Light see this additional article

....

When visiting such a sacred special place we all should be silently present in order that serenity may prevail amidst such glory.
 
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mspath said:
Within the vast dim interior of Santa Maria cathedral the jewel-toned stained glass windows, Las Vidrieras, are glorious
Click to expand...
I began my first camino in Leon, and knew nothing about this beforehand. What an amazing experience to blithely walk in only to be bathed in that amazing colored light. The impact is impossible to capture with a photo, not that we don't try...
Thank you so much for these links, @mspath!

JohnLloyd said:
But what do you do when a horse wants to come along?
Click to expand...
Ride him or her?
 
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April 12, 2019 - Terradillos de los Templarios to Bercianos del real Camino - Meditation theme: Diet
After dinner and clean-up, one of the hospitaleros of our ‘donativo’ albergue invited all the peregrinos for a short walk up a small hill. It was one of the hills that covered some storage cellars (bodegas) for the townsfolk. At the top we faced west, towards Santiago, and after he said a few words to set the tone, we were asked to silently meditate, or pray, as some peaceful instrumental guitar played from a portable CD player. We prayed and watched as the day came to a colorful close. It was a unique Camino experience, thanks to that hospitalero!

 
Camino Way markers in Bronze
The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.
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Camino Chrissy said:
On the Primitivo....
The best Flan I have had on any Camino because it was homemade from scratch...a rarity!
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I sampled two favourites , the first was in Viana where a 'wholewheat' version was served - there was more body to the desert. The second was a goats milk flan in one of the little towns 12km or so from Burgos ....Ummmmmm.
 
Hey Margret , I really take cognizance of this post , In 2003 I detested this albergue. They charged €8 which was unheard of in those days and the the municipal hospitalero was only interested in collecting fees. The facility had massive kitchens but we had to make do with the most frugal. I never returned. What is satisfying is that the albergue met all your needs and without adding too much syrup , we sometimes make champagne demands for beer money. I thank you WITH grace for reminding me.
 
Camino Way markers in Bronze
The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.
Valcarlos, legend and history

Two images/two routes



This 19th c. print depicts Charlemagne mounted finding Roland dead August 778
near Roncesvalles.on what will be later known as the Valcarlos route. Similarly the village of Valcarlos/Luzaide would also be named in honor of Carlos ie. Charlemagne.

For a further description of this scene see the Roncesvalles monastery's history page

It may come as a surprise but today's Valcarlos route was the original PASS through the mountains to Roncesvalles; it rose from the Cols des Cize/Urhart-Cize to Ibaneta.

In the 12th c. the expanding village at the base of this route would be named Saint Jean Pied de Port ie.Saint John Foot of the Pass.

For additional history see
this French account
and this general information




The present Napoleon route OVER the mountain to Roncesvalles dates from the French battles of 1813; when it was actually named the Napoleon route I do not know.

Although Napoleon Bonaparte never was on this route French troops fought at the
Battle of Roncesvalles 25 July, 1813 against the British led by Wellington in one of the many campaigns of the 1808/1814 Peninsular war/La Francesada.

For more information re the Battle of Roncesvalles see Martin Gibson's encyclopedic blog War and Security

Pursued by the British the French would retreat from Spain later in 1813. Intense battles during these campaigns occurred at Roncesvalles, Zubiri, Pamplona, and Burgos all places we walk through today.

Colonel Walter O'Hara, who
fought with the British in the Roncesvalles battle, after emigrating to then Upper Canada mid-century would name Roncesvalles Avenue in Toronto after the 1813 battle; the present neighbourhood of Roncesvalles was named after the street.
.
 
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Thank you for this! I have friends in this neighbourhood of Toronto and have wondered if there was a connection with Roncesvalles, Spain. One of those things I kept meaning to research!
 
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Theatregal said:
Thank you for this! I have friends in this neighbourhood of Toronto and have wondered if there was a connection with Roncesvalles, Spain. One of those things I kept meaning to research!
Click to expand...

Here is that link. Happy research to you and your friends
 
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April 13, 2019 - Bercianos del Real Camino to Mansilla de las Mulas - Meditation theme: Encouragement
This morning’s remarkable sunrise is a fitting bookend to yesterday's sunset! All the hospitaleros from the albergue came outside as we set out this morning, shook our hands, and wished us a sincere “Buen Camino”. It was the eye contact that made this kind and encouraging gesture meaningful and memorable. As a team, they demonstrated a Camino spirit that was positive and cohesive.

 
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Hi @VNwalking
Yes! I had a go at capturing the coloured light, too. As I clicked the photo I spun the camera in circles as fast as I could to muddle the electronics (? not sure which bits)...


Leon, 2011
 
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Villatuerta, private albergue
photos taken October 20, 2011



This rough pebble floored space is the entrance hall of the Casa Magica, a 300 years old farmhouse in Villatuerta where I stayed in 2011. In the past grapes for vino tinto were stamped/crushed on that floor.

Renovated/repurposed as an albergue by the hosts the on-going adaptation was charming. Family furniture, bits and pieces, plus new basics were well mixed together.





The loggia strung with colorful hammocks for shady siestas out of the sun would be very appealing during summer heat, but it was not quite as inviting in the October chill.





However, my tiny nook was very cozy for autumn sleeping. A German woman, the only other pilgrim, and I each had one within a larger dorm. How nice it was to have a "room" of one's own, even if miniscule, after other nights in crowded spaces!

Best of all the well positioned stainless steel showers sprayed limitless hot water onto you, not the walls, and draining immediately left no slippery puddles on the floor. Bliss.

...
I wonder if today the Casa is still as magical as it was 10 years ago?
 
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April 14, 2019 - Mansilla de los Mulas to Léon - Meditation theme: Patience
This day was Palm Sunday. In the courtyard of our albergue in Léon, groups were preparing for the procession that begins Semana Santa. There was a statue of the crucified Christ, waiting to be mounted on an elaborate floral stand. That ‘paso’ (float) alone requires 80 people to carry it on their shoulders through the streets of Léon to the Cathedral. Yet, despite the hustle and bustle, as the icon was just laying there, waiting to be installed, people were coming over to it, touching it, kissing it, genuflecting, making the sign of the cross, saying prayers … I captured a tender moment.

I recorded parts of the Semana Santa procession in Léon that evening. Please click on the following link (audio on, svp). This float only required 48 carriers! And if you have never seen a Semana Santa procession, and you hail from North America, you may be a little curious, as I was, seeing the ‘capirote’ headwear. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1HSoxB6cyRk2Nu6fOAD6jXwr7Lzf0CXE0/view?usp=sharing

 
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CF 16. I arrived in Pamplona on Corpus Christi morning. In time for Mass and to catch the procession. It took me back to many such processions when I was a child. In the UK they seem to be much smaller now. Whilst I stood waiting they were scattering the Rosemary on the roads. I hope that you will forgive me the three pictures.

 
I was there last year... or was it two years ago? It must have been two years ago!
New owners, and a lovely, simple, unfussy welcome, with delicious meal included. I even got the recipe for the dessert... I also enjoyed the luxury of the little alcove within the room.
 
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I have a memory of a stony slope down through fairly enclosed trees and bushes, and being pursued by loud and cheerful chatter... and soon, overtaken by a happy band of Spanish pilgrims. That links with this photo, taken just before the descent, in my memory.
 
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Vézelay, Basilica, interior
photo taken December 4, 2008



Vézelay Abbey and Basilica, is a grand monument of faith and architecture in the French countryside. In this photo I am entering the light of the ambulatory silently thankful to be there once again after walking from home.
For the last 50 years or so ever since university days I have loved this interior. Romanesque, Gothic, and 19th century intervention are all combined into timeless beauty.

Late autumn 2008 I climbed the hill behind our farmhouse facing the Marne River in Champagne and started walking south/southwest 220km following small roads and marked paths towards Vezelay. Although I intended to continue on towards Santiago my knees did not; the two week walk is described in this blog

For more on the history and architecture of the Abbey and Basilica, Sainte Marie Madeleine, which is a
UNESCO world heritage site
see La Basilique de Vezelay

...

Whatever one believes here eternal peace is combined with man-made perfection. Might this magnificent site endure for another thousand years; may my memory of it last as long as I.
 
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Altus BALI Sleeping bag liner
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Monastery of San Salvador de Villanueva was founded in the 10th century by Count Santo (Osorio Gutiérrez). It is the most important building in Lourenza. This Benedictine monastery today houses the Museum of Religious Art. The whole complex has been declared a Property of Cultural Interest, and consists of an abbey and the church, as well as various chapels, a monastery, two cloisters and a courtyard.
Unfortunately we weren't able to visit it, as it was closed. Camino del Norte, June, 2018.
 
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April 15, 2019 - Léon to Villar de Mazarife - Meditation theme: Role modeling
As we left Léon, this is what was waiting for Rory and me on the Camino that day … wind, rain and some hail came fast and furious for about a half hour and soaked us, despite our rainwear. Then as fast as it came, it was gone. Sometimes, you just have to accept that the walking days must be cut short. Later that evening we learned of the terrible fire occurring at Notre Dame Cathedral in Paris. My French companion told me of it with tears in his eyes. We eventually learned with great relief, that the fire damage was not too extensive.

 
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Bill905 said:
And if you have never seen a Semana Santa procession, and you hail from North America, you may be a little curious, as
Click to expand...
I have not seen a procession, only photos. I am personally turned off by those hoods as they are a reminder to me of the many small scale atrocities that have happened in our past history, sorry to say.
 
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The long corridor of the pilgrims's accommodation on the 4th floor at the Hospederia San Martin Pinario in Santiago. If it's available, I like to stay in the room at the very end of the corridor. The lights are on motion sensor, so if you come in late at night, the corridor is dark and the lights come on one by one as you travel through. A bit spooky but fun. I love staying there in those simple, comfortable little rooms.

 
Theatregal,
I loved it also!
My first visit I simply walked in late at night after returning from Finistere during a sleet storm. Poncho and pack were coated with ice and I resembled the 'wicked witch of the west'. The then rather elegant concierge said "Good evening Madame I trust that you ARE a pilgrim" and promptly handed me a key to a 23 euro pilgrim room. There was no need to show any Credencial since no regular tourist would be out walking during such weather!!...Those were happy times.
MM.
 
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Roncesvalles, Albergue
photos taken October 12, 2011

Roncesvalles monastery has been welcoming pilgrims since the eleventh century. During 2011, however, much changed! An old wing of the complex was handsomely rehabilitated into an albergue sheltering well over 100 pilgrims.



This elegant ground floor corridor leads to a sleek kitchen, large dining area, boot room, computer/wifi facilities and a reading room.




Upstairs a huge coed dorm is divided into four bunk units; each has private lockers and handy electric sockets. Sharing my unit were 3 men from Japan, France and Germany. Each had arrived by taxi!! Since I had walked 5 exhausting hours from Valcarlos after a slightly chaotic shower due to a push-for-water system I took a welcome siesta.

All attended evening mass in the ancient Romanesque church; pilgrims from more than thirty countries gathered for the traditional blessing. ...May we all go safely and in peace.
 
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Camino Way markers in Bronze
The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.
April 16, 2019 - Villar de Mazarife to Astorga - Meditation theme: Mentoring
During a conversation with a waitress along the way this morning, we learned there would be Semana Santa processions in Astorga in the evening. We found a vantage point in a café on Plaza España to observe the proceedings, while having a snack. Of course, in Astorga, it must have something to do with chocolate! Churros con chocolate! One of the processional groups entering the plaza was composed of about 36 black-robed women shouldering a float with a rendition of “La Pieta”. For some reason I can’t explain, their procession compelled me to pause and reflect.

 
Theatregal said:
I love staying there in those simple, comfortable little rooms
Click to expand...
I had a reservation to stay here a year go and was quite excited, but covid had me cancelling all my Camino plans. Hopefully I'll have an opportunity to stay there in the not too far off future.
 
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Mondonedo Cathedral, was declared a National Monument in 1902, and is known as the Catedral Arrodillada ( kneeling cathedral) for its perfect proportions and short stature. It is of Romanesque and Gothic styles. Most of it built between 1219-1243. In the 18th century the facade was remodeled and the towers were added. We are now about 150kms to Santiago on the Camino del Norte. June, 2018.

These Gothic paintings, which are quite horrific, are found under the organs today, probably from the late 15th or early 16th century.
These representations, currently rescued and located on the walls of the central nave, are very different in technique with respect to the rest of the wall paintings of the time in Galicia.
The scene portrayed above is of the Slaughter of the Innocent Children. It is arranged in two stripes separated by thin bands illustrated with a Gothic text, the author presents us with the great massacre committed by soldiers dressed in chain mail and swords.
Its main stained glass window is that of the rose window, which preserves the original central circle of the previous Romanesque rose window with the figure of the Saviour. The rest of the glass was recomposed at the beginning of the 20th century according to the old medieval models. Not a very good photo unfortunately.
​
 
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Camino Jewellery
A selection of Camino Jewellery
The well known Igreja do Carmo in Porto. Amazing tilework which is the hallmark of Portuguese churches.
I think attending a service in any town or city (regardless of ones beliefs) is a nice way to obtain insights into how people live their lives, culture etc. I found this well attended service welcoming and very family and community orientated.


 
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Remember staying there one night when a school tour were also there. The girls ran riot up and down the corridor. One of the hotel staff had to stay up there to keep the things quiet. They had walked from Sarria and this was their last night. Interesting nights sleep to say the least.!!
 
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kirkie said:
According to the numbers, yes. I will double check tomorrow and let you know, but I think it is in and around those last few days before Santiago. Rick would know! He has an eagle eye!
Click to expand...
Perhaps it is one of those crossings on stones after Melide ? Boenté?
 
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leaving Granon, sign
photo taken February 11, 2009



Serendipity and tea

Entering again the San Juan Baptista parish albergue in Granon while sheltering from cold/wind was double pleasure. Alone at first I was joined at lunchtime by two workmen who were repainting; they kindly cooked for three. Later a young Spanish fellow, Carlos, arrived.

Lack of heat was the problem! We four wearing coats/hats ate arroz Cubano huddled together. I planned on wearing my woolly hat all night, or, to be precise, to mat since at Granon pilgrims sleep on floor mats. Outside sleet fell/wind howled; inside it was very cold.

In sleeping bags atop floor mats Carlos and I chatted in English, French, and my limited Spanish. He at 18 wanted to 'do good' and to 'find himself' and was curious how I at 70 had 'found my way'. Since his bag crossed the foot of my bag I felt as protected as a recumbant queen in the Najera royal pantheon

Dawn was grey and cold. After tea and thick slices of hot buttered toast the workmen left.
Carlos and I walked up the Calle Mayor towards the sign pictured above. Shaking hands we wished each other "Buen camino" and continued our solitary journeys

One week later as I arrived at snowy Castrojeriz Carlos waved from the door of the San Esteban municipal albergue. He had 'found his way' as an ad hoc hospitalero. We both rejoiced. Pleased with his new duties he asked "Hola Margaret what about a tea?" Served boiling hot in an old jam jar it was most delicious.

Basic shelter comfort, chance encounter serendipity, and sincere sharing are precious at any age.
..Long may that be so.
 
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Let us pick up your suitcase once you arrive in Europe....
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April 17, 2019 - Astorga to Foncebadón - Meditation theme: Humility
It is a tough uphill climb to our destination for the day. We have entered a part of the Cantabrian Mountain range, and our walking trail has returned to that of a loose stone footpath. Our profile map advises there will be quite a bit of up and down over the next week or so. Thankfully, the many small towns along the Camino will afford us some flexibility, and there will be plenty of opportunity to rest for a spell and enjoy some of the Spanish hospitality that we have taken a liking to. On colder days that would be either a café con leche or a Cola Cao hot chocolate, and on hot afternoons, a refreshing radler.

 
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kirkie said:
Perhaps slightly out of sequence, but in any case, recognisable for any who have left O Cebreiro behind.
View attachment 97885
Click to expand...
Kirkie, Great shot of the Alto de San Roque!
San Roque/St Roch was born in 14th c. Montpellier, France; he went as a mendicant pilgrim to Rome and is
associated with curing the plague
 
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Best lightweight Camino guides
Ideal pocket guides for during & after your Camino. Each weighs only 1.4 oz (40g)!
The loudest toilets in the Western hemisphere, too.
 
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