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On the Camino: One Day at a Time, one Photo at a Time 4.0.

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east of Najera
photo taken October 28, 2013



Tea and serendipity

Walking alone towards Najera across frosty Rioja vineyards I planned to stop to eat a biscuit or two at a woodsy nook remembered from past caminos.

When I arrived two slim men were seated in 'my' nook their backs to the path; nary a pack was visible. Were they 'woodsmen' (anxiously I recalled dystopian movie scenes) or pilgrims? They saw me as I with RELIEF spoted their pilgrim shells; we three shouted 'Hola!' simultaneously.

Charming and most gracious they offered delicious HOT tea brewed on a primus; we chatted while sipping tea and enjoying the biscuits. From Germany and Holland these two pilgrims had met while walking; now they were sharing the way.

After teatime we three stood, shook hands, said Buen Camino and continued on our paths.
 
Margaret, You’ve got some wonderful memories !
I like the nice large mug the fair chap has !
a decent hot cuppa !
 
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mspath said:
Tea and serendipity

Walking alone towards Najera across frosty Rioja vineyards I planned to stop to eat a biscuit or two at a woodsy nook remembered from past caminos.
Click to expand...
A lovely image, thinking of the 3 of you sharing tea and a moment in time. I know that nook - I too have a good memory here.
 
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Theatregal said:
A lovely image, thinking of the 3 of you sharing tea and a moment in time. I know that nook - I too have a good memory here.
Click to expand...
By chance do you have the GPS location for the nook? Unfortunately my shot was taken "blind".
 
Castrojeriz seems to be a happy photo topic this week so adding my 2 cents.

In 2013 I walked in for my first time with my three companions and loved all the notes from around the world. I dug into the bottom of my pack and gave the proprietor a 2010 Vancouver Olympics Toonie ($2 Canadian coin). He was so excited and found a place of honour for it. That made my day.

 
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mspath said:
east of Najera
photo taken October 28, 2013

View attachment 96971

Tea and serendipity

After teatime we three stood, shook hands, said Buen Camino and continued on our paths.
Click to expand...
Reminded me so strongly of this photo, taken on the Le Puy route. Except the drink of choice was red wine!

 
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April 5, 2019 - Belorado to San Juan de Ortega - Meditation theme: Making choices
The trek that day turned out to be one that my Camino companion Rory said, “Tested our resolve.” An apt description … cold, windy, rain, sleet, snow. When we started walking the Camino about two weeks ago, shirt sleeves were rolled up. Today I started out wearing 4 layers. As we left Belorado along Av. de Santiago, I happened to turn and look behind and saw this large mural. It was a good reminder that I should occasionally look around. I like this Forum thread because it shows how the Camino is perceived from many perspectives. Looking forward to my next Camino.

 
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towards Valcarlos, arrow
photo taken September 28, 2004





2004 signage on the Valcarlos alternative included miniscule yellow arrows painted on popsicle-like sticks randomly attached to trees, logs, etc. as in this photo.

When trying to find/follow arrows my trail vibes turned 'bad'; the sun was off course and my feet were on the wrong side of a stream !!

I sought help. A farmer in a distant pasture waved and came near. When asked where the camino path lay he pointed opposite to where I had been heading. When shown the last arrow that I had erroneously followed he replied "Oh those children they do SO enjoy confusing pilgrims!" He then turned that arrow to re-face the correct direction.

How lucky it was to have met that helpful farmer.

During recent years the Valcarlos route signage has VASTLY improved but a basic sense of direction is still most useful wherever you wander.
 
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It's nice to see the inside of an albergue. We get caught up in the beautiful shots, but often forget how much time we spend inside!
 
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April 6, 2019 - San Juan de Ortega to Burgos - Meditation theme: Family
A mass is said each evening in the chapel of St. Thecla, inside the cathedral in Burgos. This photo shows the elaborate altarpiece in the chapel, where we can see St. Thecla in the middle being burned at the stake (not to worry, she is miraculously saved!); on the left is Santo Domingo de la Calzada with chickens; at the top is Santiago Matamoros (aka Santiago de Compostela); on the right is St. Roque (aka St. Roch) the patron saint of dogs, who had lived in Spain in the early 1300’s. After mass, we went across the plaza and enjoyed some “comida de consuela” in the form of churros con chocolate!


 
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Leaving Molinaseca at dawn and happy to find this tiny shop open for the day's provisions. We asked the man in the shop if there was a bar open for breakfast. He said no, it's too early but I'll make you breakfast! In (what seemed like) a flash a little table was set up with 3 chairs, fresh orange juice, coffee and toast.

 
Out of the woods

On the Camino as in ordinary life we never know how help might come, nevertheless we should always be grateful whenever it does.

March 2009 during a rainstorm a young Spanish woman and I left Hospital de Orbigo to walk the alternative route towards Astorga.
Between Santibáñez de Valdeiglesias and San Justo de la Vega we lost our bearings within a dense wood.
Perhaps near here?




Seeking the path all was dark and slippery. Soaked and perplexed we tried to backtrack when suddenly a small dog appeared amidst the vegetation.

After sniffing our boots the dog moved slightly "ahead" waiting for us to follow.
Trotting by our sides the dog then led us for several kms through mazelike holm oaks towards a wide path which we three followed.



When at last on the distant horizon the towers of Astorga cathedral could be glimpsed, the dog ambled off, his task complete.
The Spanish pilgrim and I continued into the city exhausted and extremely grateful for the special skills of our persistent four legged guide.


....
After many years the question still remains how did that dog KNOW the way? Perhaps the latest answer is found here.

Mind-Boggling New Study Shows Dogs Can Use Earth's Magnetic Field to Navigate

It's not just for birds.
www.sciencealert.com
 
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The note on this one says: Portomarin to Melide. We had to go on quite a bit from Portomarin, as there were no beds in any of the inns. The first Xunta albergue was closed for repairs and the second one was full. We finally got bunks in one that was private, and good fortune let us meet up with our long time daily companions, so every cloud has a silver lining. That was also where an 80 something father was giving out about his daughter who could not keep up with him...
 
April 7, 2019 - Burgos to Hornillos del Camino - Meditation theme: Self-talk
I always found it a great feeling to crest a hill, or to come around a bend, and see your destination a few kilometers ahead! The photo shows the pueblo of Hornillos del Camino (pop. 58) in the distance. We are in the province of Burgos now, and I have caught up again with my French 'cousins’. They call me their cousin because I am from Canada and I speak French! One of these fellows, Didier, and I made plans to walk the Via Podiensis (the Le Puy route) but the pandemic has forced us to change our dates several times. We are now targeting May of 2022.

 
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Interesting bit of information I learned on the Camino. Ever wondered why, every few rows of vines, one may see a solitary rose bush. Not for the staff to bring a rose home to their other half !!! It is the vineyards early warning system for the presence of greenfly (aphids). They are attracted to the roses first so the vineyard knows it is time to spray the vines.
 
CF 2016. I arrived in Molinaseca from Rabanal, with two sore knees, they hadn't been well since Zubiri. I discovered a mix up in my accommodation booking meant no bed for the night. Not being in the mood for traipsing around looking for somewhere, I went to the Hostal El Palacio, by the bridge. Yes they had a room, great.
It was a wonderful, large room, large bed, double aspect, with a glazed balcony. Both aspects looked down onto the bridge, great for peregrino watching. It was 44 Euros and worth every cent. A very nice dinner rounded it off.

 
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Montes de Oca, van
photo taken October 18, 2004





This white van was parked
where a dirt road crossed the camino to San Juan de Ortega. A few folding chairs and a small table adorned with a tiny vase of wild flowers were set outside. A big dog dozed nearby.

Exiting the van a tall, slim man wearing a blue track suit asked in precise English “Hello, would you care to rest and have a tea?”
Slightly dubious since we were in the middle of a forest, but glad to take off my pack and sit, I answered "Yes, please".

We introduced ourselves and chatted about chilly October weather, camino renown, and more philosophically, the necessity for purpose in life. His after a recent change was now to be a wandering Helper, aiding pilgrims along the ways. “Are you and your tea always accepted?" I asked. "Generally” he answered, “but the French rarely stop!”

Right on cue a couple speaking French and looking uncertain hurried along the path into our view. We all smiled. When the couple were offered some tea I emphatically commented “C’est très bon!”; they stopped.

Relaxed and comfortable we all then enjoyed the unexpected pleasure of this simple ad hoc camino caritas consisting of a chair, a chat, and a cup of hot tea.

After taking the photo I continued walking towards the monastery of San Juan de Ortega.

....Years have past since that morning but the memory of gentle kindness remains.
 
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Two today. The first shows the espadaña (the name for the bell gable) atop the little ermita on the way out of Portomarín. The second is a detail of the inside, from the railings. After a hearty salad lunch we set off, not realising it would be 13 more km before we secured a bunk. We had decided to just enjoy the challenge. So we did. it achieved a couple of objectives - we were ahead of the madding crowd, and we saved a day to enjoy in Finisterre. We took the bus to Finisterre, and on the way back down to catch the bus to Santiago we met the gentle Italian we had last seen ahead of us in Atapuerca.
 
Kirkie,
Your peek inside San Pedro is perfect; thanks for sharing.
 
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April 8, 2019 - Hornillos del Camino to Castrojeriz - Meditation theme: Compassion
After we passed through Hontanas, the Camino was little more than a muddy cow path, and the tread of our shoes quickly filled. Soon we were slip-sliding along, carrying what seemed like a pound of mud on each shoe, and as quickly as we scraped it off, it reaccumulated. In Castrojeriz, we came upon a small stela commemorating their 1,000th anniversary, in 1974! I admired their optimism … Milenario I and plenty of space to add another!!

 
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SabineP said:
Crossroads in Carrion de los Condes. A bar, known to many I believe!
Cafe Bar España, busstop. And start of my limited CF 2017.
Click to expand...
I remember that bar well! It must be one of the busiest places for breakfast on the camino. It was, dark, chilly, and raining that morning. The tables were all full with the windows steamed up from all the wet pilgrims inside and a line-up out the door. It could have been miserable with the rain and cold but it was quite cheerful inside with people greeting those they'd met along the way. A good memory.
 
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Theatregal said:
Another very busy bar with the large crowd ( including me ) who had left Roncesvalles early and were looking for breakfast in Burguete. Next door to the Iglesia de San Nicolas de Bari.

View attachment 97174
Click to expand...
Theatregal,
That's a great photo of a very nice place. Open early every morning even in winter and very pilgrim friendly. Within their complex is the local fronton court. I always stopped on the way down from Roncesvalles.
 
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mspath said:
Theatregal,
That's a great photo of a very nice place. Open early every morning even in winter and very pilgrim friendly. Within their complex is the local fronton court. I always stopped on the way down from Roncesvalles.
Click to expand...
Indeed! A very friendly place. The energy that morning was intense - filled with new pilgrims all clamouring for their cafe con leche which was served calmly by a very efficient, patient hostess at the bar.

 
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Villafranca Montes de Oca, albergue dorm
photo taken October 17, 2004



At this municipal albergue I stayed the night before meeting the white van posted above

Within a repurposed school the albergue was simple, but definitely sufficient.

Upon arrival the front door was open.
No one was about; however in the entry was a pilgrim registry to sign and a simple welcome sheet stating:
.....The dorm was up the stairs,
.....Choose a bunk upon arrival,
.....The hospitalera would stamp/collect later,
..... In emergency call (this number )

Furthermore,

Showers were on the ground floor and toilets next to the dòrm.
A common space with various utensils for simple cooking was provided.
Shower water was hot, radiators worked and extra blankets were visible.

...What more could any pilgrim need or want?

After my brief shower/short siesta I ate a copious 'menu de dia' featuring trout stuffed with ham at El Pajaro a nearby restaurant popular with truckers. Delicious!

....

During later caminos I always stopped
at Villafranca Montes de Oca,
felt "at home" and recalled being snowbound for three days here during the 2006 blizzard

Unfortunately since autumn 2017 due to a local imbroglio this comfortable albergue has been closed

...At least my fond memories remain.
 
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April 9, 2019 - Castrojeriz to Fromista - Meditation theme: Empathy
In our albergue in Fromista I found a comfortable armchair in front of a toasty wood burning stove where I could rest and update my blog. The warmth felt great after a cold trek! Later, we explored the Church of San Martin, constructed around the year 1066. This altar is decidedly bare when compared to those in other churches and cathedrals, such as the one we saw in Burgos a few days ago. The statue of San Martin on the left, dates from the 14th century; the crucifix from the 13th century; and the statue of Santiago from the 16th century. I imagined the millions of prayers that have been said here and added another.

 
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I've been piggy-backing off other members' posts quite a bit lately. It makes it easier for me to pick my own pictures to post. Today is no exception, I'm sending in a couple of closeups of imagery that you can see in @Bill905's post just above and another of a window elsewhere in the church.

 
I like your picture of the window, Rick. It really shows the thickness of the walls of the church. I was impressed by the construction.
 
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Bill905 said:
I like your picture of the window, Rick. It really shows the thickness of the walls of the church. I was impressed by the construction.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the comment on the thickness of the walls Bill, it got me exploring a bit. I think I picked up on a thread here on romanesque architecture that walls had to be thick to support the roofs above them without collapsing (until the gothic flying buttress was invented). I wasn't sure if the roof of San Martín's was stone or lighter timber (but I doubted timber since it would have been scarce and the walls thinner). I went to the church's Wikipedia page and found out that the roof was indeed stone barrel vault. I then was curious if the church's Saint Martin of Tours was the one of cloak fame. Yes. And I found on his Wikipedia page (under the section on the legend of his cloak) that his cloak is the root of two very common religious terms.
 
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I will remember that next time I am in a chapel.
 
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mspath said:
Another great shot! Kirkie where did you stay after Portomarin? I stopped in Gonzar.
Click to expand...
Gonzar was closed for repairs in 2006 when we passed. The next Xunta albergue was full, so we eventually found shelter in Casa Molar in Ventas de Narón. I had to hunt a little bit just now, but the photo of the bar in the Wise Pilgrim guide confirms that it was there. What I do remember is getting the phone number from the hospitaleras in the albergue completo, and although the owner did not absolutely say yes, he was informed that an elderly lady was coming soon... I was getting on for 59!
It would have been a bit much to have had to go on further.
 
Hence you took the photo of the "dancing tree" between Portomarin and Ventas de Naron ? That certainly was far to walk easily in one day!
 
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mspath said:
Hence you took the photo of the "dancing tree" between Portomarin and Ventas de Naron ? That certainly was far to walk easily in one day!
Click to expand...
The day should have been Sarria to Portomarín, but because we were too late for a bed, we had lunch and set off. The first albergue was closed, I think that was at 8km, and the next one was not too far on, but it was full. My memory - which is famously faulty! - tells me we walked an extra 13km from Portomarín. It wasn't hard, actually. Stamina had been building up over the camino. Next day we went to Melide where we ate Pulpo, and the next to Pedrouzo, reaching Santiago on the following day. And you, dear @mspath, had been my guiding star, so it is once again a delight to be able to tell you that!
Note to anyone else reading this: before setting off on the Camino, I scoured internet looking for evidence that 'older people' could do this! I came across @mspath's blogs - before I was too aware of the forum - and with some emails back and forth, I gained sufficient courage and confidence to believe I could at least begin. I learned that the power to put one foot in front of the other came from my head! We began in Roncesvalles, so I had no hard stories of the day over the Pyrenees, but the Alto de Perdón was one that some people who knew me were convinced I would be unable for. Suffice it to say, I have chosen to walk that day twice more since then, I liked it so much.
 
Camino Way markers in Bronze
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An end to this day’s Camino,
heading back to Melbourne on the freeway, the city and the city lights visible in the distance and in my stomach that palpable feeling that though all is not well in this world at least we are still free.

 
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San Juan de Ortega
photo taken October 18, 2004





After stopping for morning tea
at the van I walked on alone to the monastery of San Juan de Ortega/St John of the Nettles. This St John was a helper of St Dominic of Calzata and like him built hospices and roads for medieval pilgrims.





Within the handsome Romanesque church is the sumptuous freestanding Gothic mausoleum of San Juan; he is depicted recumbent beneath an ornate baldachino or canopy.

When requesting to stay overnight I met the elderly priest Don José Maria and his sister who ran the albergue. Each pilgrim was asked to help decorate the church with large bunches of fresh greens plus scallop shells tied to the main altar and side aisles. All ten of us did.

Despite the cold temperature the evening mass was beautiful and a very personal experience. At the close of the service the priest, Don José Maria, walked towards everyone, removed his chasuble and clapping his hands graciously invited all into the adjacent refectory.

He and his sister then laddled out steaming cups of his
famous garlic soup which was very welcome that cold October night.
Sharing soup and casual conversation Don José Maria sat with all of us; eventually he gently suggested that it was time to sleep.



The austere pilgrim lodgings were within the old monastery. Due to the cold I skipped showering. Snuggled deep in my sleeping bag I was sincerely thankful for the day’s special kindnesses, tea at the van and soup in the refectory. Both were imbued with true caritas.

...
Since 2004 I have repassed/revisited the beautiful monastery church but in recent years with the sadness of memory.

In 2008 Don José Maria who had been so active in helping to revitalize the camino died.

He is buried in the monastery cloister.
....May he be at peace.
 
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Camino Way markers in Bronze
The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.


Weekend. In normal times in Spanish bars and in some cafes here in Belgium this would be a familiar sight. People playing cards. Close together and no masks. Hopefully soon back to "a kind of normal".

Belorado 2013. CF. The only pilgrim in that bar. I still remember how the older gentlemen tried to explain the rules of the game to me. I nodded politely but till today I don't have a clue....hehe!
 
April 10, 2019 - Fromista to Carrion de los Condes - Meditation theme: Support
The Espiritu Santo albergue, where we are staying, is a parochial albergue run by nuns. It appears that the nuns had to re-orient themselves a few years ago from running a school to running an albergue, as school registrations dwindled and disappeared. The albergue is very well maintained and orderly. They told us they speak no English (but I have my suspicions ). We registered and were shown to our dorm. This very authoritative, and very little, nun agreed to have her picture taken with me. As you can see, I had to kneel down and still was almost taller than she! Theirs is still a life of service. Bless them. Muchas gracias!

 

Ah Bill! Thank you for this wonderful memory. One of the best places IMO.
Authorative but also very friendly!
A great picture!
 
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mspath said:
He is buried in the monastery cloister.
Click to expand...
Oh! I did not know this. If I am there again, it will be a joy to pay respects to him.

San Juan de Ortega is indeed a changed place. The bone-chilling cold remains, but the caritas that once warmed it has definitely gone. The nearby bar is plenty friendly, though.

Here is one of my favorite places for coffee in Burgos. Very pilgrim-friendly, and you can't beat the view!
 
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There are times when you fancy something different, like a curry. This one is a very good vegetable curry, at Bar/Pension El Puente Peregrino, in Trabadelo, served with a very nice Asturian cidre. It is also a very nice, comfortable, place to stay and the host Elly is very friendly and helpful.

 
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That is quite a location! In the
SJdO bar I always enjoyed the morcilla sausage especially in winter.
 
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