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On the Camino: One Day at a Time, one Photo at a Time 11.0

Camino Frances
nearing Mezkiritz

photo taken October 17, 2014



"Your days are numbered. Use them to throw open the windows of your soul to the sun. If you do not, the sun will soon set, and you with it."
Marcus Aurelius,
The Emperor's Handbook, II,IV
 
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Camino Frances
Pamplona

January 29, 2009


After revisiting the cathedral this rainy/cold day in the wet cloister courtyard the sole fell off my hiking boot! Luckily an elderly priest holding an open umbrella beckoned saying "Senora please come with me". We walked to an old-fashioned sports store nearby where the priest and matronly owner together slowly/carefully fitted me with new affordable boots!

... I still recall the kindness of these two special souls, who were true camino angels.
 
Camino Frances
Pamplona
Cathedral cloister

photo taken October 21, 2013



Above the open loggia space on the 2nd storey of this Gothic cloister can be seen an uppermost smaller loggia which may have been part of a dormitory. Open on one side these loggias would have been/still are airy covered places for private strolling.
 
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Cahors to Lascabanes, Day 20, Via Podiensis, 2nd May 2024. Dave Whitson in his Cicerone guide to the Via Podiensis assures us that today, after our initial climb out of Cahors, that the most strenuous terrain on the GR65 is behind us!! Thank goodness!! We still had some rocky, wet and muddy paths to navigate, as the rain continues to fall. We did see a few short glimpses of the sun on our walk today.
 
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Today , thirteen years ago. Mansilla de la Mulas.
The albergue municipal. No reservations possible.
Gorgeous patio. I shared a small dorm with a pensioned footpilgim from Montpellier and a cyclist from the Netherlands.
Laura, the hospi was very helpful and caring for those with blisters.
 
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back road
near Campanas
haystack

photo taken January 22, 2008



These 2 pilgrims and I were on a back road "walk around" to avoid climbing up/down the Alto de Perdon yet eventually arrive at Eunate.

After following route NA 6000 southeast from Cizur Menor near the haystack we continued on NA121 and NA601 to Ucar and Enériz where the calle San Juan led west to Santa María de Eunate.
 
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Today, thirteen years ago. San Justo de la Vega. View from my hostalroom ( Hostal Juli ). The ayuntamiento.
Library is in the town hall. I used one of their public computers that day.
Very friendly people, as were the owners of the hostal.

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Información del Hostal Hostal Juli, en San Justo de la Vega: precio, plazas, características, etc...
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Lauzerte to Moissac, Day 22, Via Podiensis, 4th May 2024.
Well this was a very long hard, rainy, muddy day. We left Lauzerte at 07.15hrs and arrived in Moissac at 17.57hrs. Miraculously neither of us fell in the seas of mud we had to wade through!!

A nice greeting on the outskirts of Moissac.
 
Moissac to Auvillar, Day 23, Via Podiensis, 5th May 2024.
What a great days walk! The sun shone and we walked by the Garonne Canal for about 15 kms, it was great. We had a relaxing days walk to Auvillar and even had time to enjoy this beautiful hilltop town. This photo was taken from the view point in Auvillar looking back across the Garonne river to where we had walked during the day.
 
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The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.
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Miradoux to Marsolan, Day 25, Via Podiensis, 7th May 2024. We saw this beautiful letter box this morning as we were leaving Miradoux. Dry morning today but lots of rain this afternoon and more mud! The sun is forecast to appear tomorrow and stay around until the beginning of next week, thank goodness.
 
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Camino Frances
Uterga
pedestrian portrait

photo taken October 22, 2012



In fog and rain the Alto de Perdon path up had become churning mud; when descending the rain never ceased on mud covered scree. Thus arriving at the friendly bar/hostal/albergue Camino del Perdon in Uterga
I took this photo for permanent proof of all that mud!
 
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Marsolan to Condom, Day 26, Via Podiensis, 8th May 2024. Sunny day, with mud but we stayed in a wonderful Gite & Chambre d’Hote in Condom, which provided everything a pilgrim might need on their journey, including facilities for washing muddy boots! Our boots are now clean for the first time in about two weeks!!
Our first good view of Condom Cathedral.
 
Today in Bari on the Via Francigena going south. Happened upon the 3 day celebration of St Nicolas, the Patron saint of the town. They enjoy it so much it’s repeated in early December.
 

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Camino Argones
Muruzábal
Iglesia de Santa Maria de Eunate

photo taken February 10, 2007



This is a memento of my earliest glimpse of Eunate. Although the church and adjacent albergue were closed that winter day, I silently vowed to return and sleep there someday. Thus I did stay in 2008, 2009, 2011 and visited on later caminos.
... These special times at Eunate are still treasured.
 
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Muruzábal
Iglesia de Santa María de Eunate

photo taken October 23, 2013



Built by unknown craftsmen one thousand years ago this small circular church within an octagonal cloister is nestled in an natural bowl; the ocher stones blend with nearby fields planted with corn and fennel. Here one senses the eternal peace of paradise.

....May such perfection continue for another thousand years.
 
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Via Francigena again. Going through the olive groves came across this old weathered sign indicating 45km to Brindisi and 195km to S. Maria di Leuca. Generally there are lots of modern signage but this stands out as being homemade and hand painted. The modern version stands beside it
 

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Camino Argones
Muruzábal
Eunate albergue
"tea"

photo taken January 22, 2008



By chance the Eunate albergue had just opened for the season the day I stopped in January 2008.



After stamping my Credential the hospitalero graciously invited me to join him and his friends for late afternoon "tea"; we ate delicious goodies and shared much camino gossip!
 
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Basilica Pontificia de Finibus Terrae in Leuca. This is both the beginning and the end of the Via Francigena. We finished in Brindisi but hired a car to see this and the view of the watery expanse here in Southern Italy.
 

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Train on the 4-day Catalina Camino
Train for your next Camino on California's Santa Catalina Island March 16-19
Eauze to Nogaro, Day 30, Via Podiensis, 12th May 2024. Grey skies all day but no rain and drying mud! We passed through Manciet where there’s a small bull ring.
The Course Landaise, is a traditional Gascogne Sport, which involves dodging and jumping over the animals, which are usually cows not bulls.This is a form of bullfighting that involves no bloodshed!
 
Camino Argones
Muruzábal
Iglesia de Santa María de Eunate
interior ceiling

photo taken October 18, 2011



At twilight within the darkening church four other pilgrims and I attended a simple prayer service led by the hospitalero; we all offered thanks for our caminos, our lives and our loves.
... Later we each thanked the others for sharing such transcendent moments.
 
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Camino Argones
Muruzábal
Eunate albergue

photo taken October 18, 2011



This is the exterior of the Eunate albergue the last time I had the pleasure and privilege to stay there.
One of the delights was falling asleep on a mat in the dark attic dorm while regarding above on the ceiling a phosphorescent band of stars, the Milky Way, leading westward.
...Such moments must simply be remembered in our hearts.
 
I never knew there was an albergue there! Simply and powerfully beautiful. Thank you for sharing, from one heart to another.
 
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Camino Argones
Muruzábal
Iglesia de Santa María de Eunate

photo taken October 21, 2015



My last visit at Eunate was, as always, poignant. When leaving I turned for this final glimpse of the 1000 year old structure surrounded by fields of corn and fennel.
...May peace reign here another thousand years.
 
Camino Way markers in Bronze
The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.
mspath said:
Camino Frances
Cizur Menor
Roncal albergue

photo taken October 1, 2004

View attachment 169148

After trying to cross bustling Pamplona on crowded sidewalks with a full backpack the informal Roncal albergue atmosphere was especially relaxing.
Click to expand...

I twice stayed there: 2002 and 2014.

February 2014, I walked all the way from Pamplona to Roncal albergue in Cizur Menor. I had just fallen and twisted my ankle on that awful rubble in pic below.

The owner opened her albergue early and let me rest all day long.
VNwalking said:
Yes, I remember being so surprised the first time because the surface on the climb was fine. The rubble going is torture on delicate ankles.
View attachment 169745
Click to expand...
 
April 15, 2024 Zamora
I didn’t have time to go into most of the beautiful Romanesque churches in Zamora, as they all closed up by 2:00. However, the walk through the old part of the city towards the cathedral and the castle revealed glorious views and striking architecture at every turn.

 
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Geus d’Arzacq to Maslacq, Day 34, Via Podiensis, 16th, May 2024.
Good walk today and not so long, we actually reached our accommodation about 30 minutes before we could get in. It was sun and cloud most of the day but as we were waiting in the garden of our accommodation, at 14.50hrs the rain and hail started and we luckily were ushered into the house early to shelter!
More great views of the snow covered Pyrenees for most of our walk today and they are definitely getting closer!
We paused for a few minutes to visit the Eglise St Pierre in Argagnon a couple of kilometres before arriving at our destination for today. These are photos of two Chemin/Camino related stained glass windows from the church.
 
Camino Way markers in Bronze
The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.
Camino Frances
Puente La Reina - Gares
Calle del Crucifijo

photo taken February 11, 2007



After Sunday mass members of the congregation enjoyed the winter sunshine on the Calle del Crucifijo in the private/public space between the open door of the Convento del Crucifijo and the closed door of the Iglesia del Crucifijo.
 
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Camino Frances
Puente La Reina
calle Mayor

photo taken February 2, 2009



One very cold February morning this was the view west on calle Mayor aka the CF looking towards the distant bridge. To the right, topped with an urn, is the gate of the Iglesia de Santiago.
 
Navarrenx to Aroue, Day 36, Via Podiensis, 18th May 2024.
Very interesting town, Navarrenx, photo taken as we left this morning. We had a mainly sunny walk, more mud because of last night’s thunderstorm and deluge. There now seems to be a thunderstorm building again this evening, which will also not help the paths!
 
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Aroue to Larceveau, Day 37, Via Podiensis, 19th May 2024.
Well, today the weather forecast was for a lot of rain especially early afternoon but it didn’t eventuate. We had a an hour of rain in the morning and then dry and sunny with clouds until we arrived in Larceveau. We are definitely in the foothills of the Pyrenees and the scenery is beautiful.
 
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