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On the Camino: One Day at a Time, one Photo at a Time 10.0

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Aside: That's a big backpack! ...or perhaps a small person
Maybe a bit but absolutely perfect for me. It looks a bit unwieldy because I had just pulled everything out to find something and then shoved it all back in without good organization and strap cinching.
 
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Maybe a bit but absolutely perfect for me. It looks a bit unwieldy because I had just pulled everything out to find something and then shoved it all back in without good organization and strap cinching.
Remembering a small detail like that after 10 years says something about the occasion!
 
Camino Frances
Saint Jean Pied de Port,
rue de La Citadelle

photo taken October 14, 2014



Exactly eight years ago at 75 I began my 10th camino! Arriving at the Porte Saint Jacques to look west towards rue de La Citadelle was another thrill. Nearest in view was # 55, the municipal albergue, where multitudes of pilgrims have slept as did I always.
 
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A selection of Camino Jewellery
Valcarlos alternate route
Arneguy
photo taken October 15, 2014



At the Arneguy Venta shopping complex on the Spanish/French border this older stelle frames a newer sign pointing towards the camino path to Valcarlos, Ibaneta, and Roncesvalles.
 
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A striking image! And a very interesting overview. I was once told that skulls were not often represented in European sculpture or painting until after ~1350 AD. One theory attributed the change in artistic imagery to the Black Death, which made death ubiquitous; another theory stated that it was due to the Catholic church loosening prohibitions on human dissection, partially in response to returning Crusaders who wanted their earthly remains buried in different places. Both theories are contested and make a field day for historians...but the 1350 rule-of-thumb does seem to hold up, from my limited knowledge? So it's very interesting to see different depictions of Mary Magdalene across the ages, including Rowena's striking photo.

The only memento mori I saw on the Camino Frances were in Castrojeriz. "O Death. O Eternity." They definitely made me pause and ponder.
 
Rowena,
Here is another memento mori on the Camino Frances in Burgos cathedral
 
Thank you @mspath and @lalaone for the information. The forum is a great educational resource!
Galicia seems to have many Romanesque churches, and it was a delight to see several of them. Although most weren’t open, the church in Puente Ulla being an exception, it was more the exterior form and detail that I wanted to see anyway.
My photo today, taken May 1, is of the animal heads on either side of this church door in Lalin. I saw that detail a few times, on churches from the same period, and wondered about the message behind it.

 
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Camino Frances
Roncesvalles

photo taken October 16, 2014



When arriving at this site plan I was pooped. Despite starting pre dawn and knowing the route once again the long hard 5 hour slog up the Valcarlos alternate to Roncesvalles monastery had not been easy. Ouf!
 
...and ship it to Santiago for storage. You pick it up once in Santiago. Service offered by Casa Ivar (we use DHL for transportation).
Thank you! When I asked the question, I thought you would know the answer.
I assumed it was Mary Magdalene but hadn’t noticed the inscription on the base of the statue.
Here she is again, at Rennes le Chateaux. She certainly isn't contemplating the skull. I find it curious, associating her in particular with the skull motif.

June 14 2019.
 
A selection of Camino Jewellery
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Perhaps this account will further clarify Saint Mary Magdalene's depiction with a skull.
So, I just googled some random renaissance "saint art", and it seems this depiction is quite prevalent. St Francis in particular. Some compare with other memento mori practices in Catholicism, like annointing with ashes.
 
...and ship it to Santiago for storage. You pick it up once in Santiago. Service offered by Casa Ivar (we use DHL for transportation).
2nd, June, 2022. Fuente del Peregrino was a welcome stop in a shaded rest area on the Via Romana, about 1.9 kms before Calzadilla de Los Hermanillos, where we stayed for the second time in the lovely Albergue Via Trajana. We received a very warm welcome from mother and daughter team who own this Albergue. Unfortunately for some the municipal Albergue was closed this year.
 
Camino Frances
nearing Espinal
photo taken October 17, 2014



In the morning whilst walking towards that gleaming sunlight the descent into Espinal felt easy and, thankfully, my confidence returned.

"Your days are numbered. Use them to throw open the windows of your soul to the sun. If you do not, the sun will soon set, and you with it."
..Marcus Aurelius
 
A selection of Camino Jewellery
A selection of Camino Jewellery
Camino Frances
east of Alto de Erro
memorial

photo taken October 18, 2014



This poignant memorial is for a Japanese pilgrim aged 64 who had died here in the wood east of Alto de Erro. Elsewhere along the camino are many additional markers to pilgrims who died en route; all are tragic.
 
3rd, June, 2022. 8.17am, Continuing on the Calzada Romana, after leaving Calzadilla de Los Hermanillos about an hour before, interesting skies ahead with a small rainbow. We went through a number of heavy showers throughout our walk this day to Mansilla de las Mulas. The ponchos were on and off frequently!
 
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Fail to prepare? reduce your risk by buying this book full of practical info.
2nd ed.
Camino Frances
Trinidad de Arre

photo taken October 19, 2014



Thankful as the shadows lengthened to be once again in such a pleasant, almost timeless, place I pondered how this Marist monastery garden might have changed over the years.
 
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Camino Frances
Cizur Menor
Roncal albergue

October 20, 2014



On a chilly October day I stopped, as usual, in the private albergue run by Maribel Roncal. Since it had been chaotic trying to cross Pamplona on crowded sidewalks with a full backpack, it was especially relaxing to return to the familar informal Roncal atmosphere in Cizur Menor.
 
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3rd Edition. Vital content training & pack guides avoid common mistakes, bed bugs etc
Camino Vasco Interior, 2019.
The road ahead, about to reveal the first view of the Tunel San Adrian. It's just around the corner, but at this point I have no idea what's coming. The first time walking any route holds an infinitude of smal surprises.
 
Horreo with blue hydrangea, July 2007
Somewhere between Melide and Ribadiso (wish I could give a better pinpoint on location!)
P.S. Edited to say hydrangea, not hyacinth
...


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Lalaone,
For more on horreos check the citation listed here.
 
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Lalaone,
For more on horreos check the citation listed here.

Thank you mspath – wonderfully informative! I loved this bit about the word’s etymology; the fantastic image of selecting an ear of corn off a bookshelf will stick with me forever now, lol:

The Stoic philosopher Seneca, born in Cordoba, wrote that his library was a “horreum,” making it clear that the term was used to designate places of storage of all kinds of goods, including scrolls and parchments.

I almost wondered if we took photos of the same horreo? They look quite similar and the location fits. It doesn't seem like an *exact* match...but it's hard to tell. Very close resemblance in any case.
 
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Camino Frances
Alto de Perdon

October 21, 2014



The autumn sunshine was glorious when I crested the Alto de Perdon and saw these metal pilgrims; as in the past the slow descent on slippery scree was very difficult. However after the path leveled near Uterga with great relief I removed my pack and just sat enjoying that sunshine!
 
Ideal sleeping bag liner whether we want to add a thermal plus to our bag, or if we want to use it alone to sleep in shelters or hostels. Thanks to its mummy shape, it adapts perfectly to our body.

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Ideal pocket guides for during & after your Camino. Each weighs only 1.4 oz (40g)!
Camino Frances
Muruzábal
Santa Maria de Eunate

photo taken October 22, 2014



After revisiting Santa Maria de Eunate, I looked back for one last glimpse of the 1000 year old ocher sandstone structure surrounded by amber fields of corn and fennel.... There one sensed the eternal peace of paradise.
 
Join the Camino cleanup. Logroño to Burgos May 2025 & Astorga to OCebreiro in June
Join the Camino cleanup. Logroño to Burgos May 2025 & Astorga to OCebreiro in June
Fail to prepare? reduce your risk by buying this book full of practical info.
2nd ed.
The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.
On the Le Puy at Aumont-Aubrac, September 2009.

Our hospitalero is making aligot - potato, garlic and Tomme cheese which he said had to be between 5 and 10 days old! Here is a link to more information on this delicious food - including a note that it was said to have first occurred as a comforting winter dish offered to pilgrims on their way to Santiago.

 
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The roof of Toledo cathedral, 24 Jun 2022. Architecture fascinates me. For years I have been obsessively photographing doors and windows. Then, during lockdown I started reading up a bit more about how medieval cathedrals were constructed (e.g. article attached, not for light reading). It was highly complex and mathematically precise, especially the roofs. This is Baroque. The essential shape is comparatively simple but the decoration is exuberantly detailed. Not to every one's taste but I loved the symmetry and blazing colour and variety.
 

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Camino Frances
Villamayor de Monjardin

photo taken October 25, 2014



Asked about lunch possibilities the friendly hospitalero in the then new Villamayor de Monjardin private albergue offered me this splendid tomato from his father's garden.
...All these years later I remember the delicious taste and his kindness.
 
...and ship it to Santiago for storage. You pick it up once in Santiago. Service offered by Casa Ivar (we use DHL for transportation).
3rd Edition. Vital content training & pack guides avoid common mistakes, bed bugs etc
8th, June, 2022. Gaudi’s Palacio Episcopal in Astorga. We were unable to visit this beautiful building in 2014, as we weren’t staying in Astorga but walking through and didn’t have time. We made a point of staying there this year, so as to revisit the Cathedral and visit other sites.
 
What will it be today, boys and girls? Roofs or storks? I know, why not both? They do actually kind of go together, as you may have noticed. This one was in Cáceres on 30th April 2012.

View attachment 135525
That is one expressive bird! Caption needed.
 
...and ship it to Santiago for storage. You pick it up once in Santiago. Service offered by Casa Ivar (we use DHL for transportation).
Perfect memento/gift in a presentation box. Engraving available, 25 character max.
Ship with a "thing" hanging off the rear. Rio Navia on the Norte.

The "thing" fascinated me as I could see it being lowered as the ship moved out of the port onto the river. Could speculate it was for dredging but would be interested in confirmation.
 

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Ideal pocket guides for during & after your Camino. Each weighs only 1.4 oz (40g)!
Camino Frances
Logroño
Parque del Espolón

photo taken October 28, 2014



We should take time to appreciate all 'roses' wherever they bloom; however these in Logroño are special. Bred/developed in Brittany, France, at the Pepinieres-Guerinais, by Michel Adam; 2012 in Logroño they were officially named rosa, Camino de Santiago.
 
10th, June, 2022. From our departure from Rabanal del Camino at the early hour of 5.30am this morning we had amazing skies all the way to Molinaseca! This photo, is an example, taken at the entrance to Foncebadon. What an improvement to the road in Foncebadon compared with 2014!
 
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Join the Camino cleanup. Logroño to Burgos May 2025 & Astorga to OCebreiro in June
Perfect memento/gift in a presentation box. Engraving available, 25 character max.
I always enjoy spending time on this bench in the Alameda. The recent years of restoration have changed the sense of timelessness of this view of the Cathedral. Specific years can now be identified through the various stages of the work. August 6, 2014

 
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October 21, 2015 On the way to Finisterre
I took this photo entering the village of Santa Mariña, having walked from Negreira that day. The building opened right onto the street, so perhaps they had no space for a horreo.

 
Camino Frances, Iglesia Santa María de los Arcos



The cloister rose garden was very welcoming after a hot summer day’s walk, when even a slight bit of shade seemed fortuitous – let alone the beauty of greenery and flowers whose cooling presence soothed exhaustion almost by sight alone. Even more touching was to find locals taking refuge inside, praying silently within the cool stone walls hours before mass and the pilgrims’ blessing – my first ones in Spain.
 
The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.
Camino Frances
Ventosa
albergue San Saturnino

October 30, 2014



It was always a pleasure to arrive at the albergue San Saturnino, chat with other pilgrims, take a hot shower and collapse in clean comfort on a bottom bunk thankful for the joy of another camino day.
 
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