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On the Camino: One Day at a Time, one Photo at a Time 10.0

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2011. Mansilla de la Mulas. Albergue municipal when wonderful hospi Laura was still caring for the pilgrims. She recently became the owner of a private place somewhere on another Caminoroute ( forgot which one ).

The quiet patio. I was lucky to share one of the smaller dorms with only two other pilgrims. Quiet and gracious chaps.
One of them, a pilgrim on bike whom I only met that day, and I still have regular contact.
For me yet an example that ' a Camino family ' with whom you walk for days is a strange concept to me.
Some meetings are short and limited but can have more impact on you as a person than feeling forced to stick with a group 'out of moral duty ' . Again , my personal idea of course.
 
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SabsP,
Thanks for sharing your recollection of a very special place, lady and spirit. This post details where Laura is now. Here is another fond recollection from 2014 of Laura in Mansilla. Last but not least see this for the impact elsewhere of chance encounters
 
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I've been quiet here, needing to use my energy elsewhere.

2015. March. Camino Francés. After falling on my face the day before, and in the pouring rain, I cut my walk from Najera short in Cirueña, at Albergue Virgen de Guadalupe. After the respite, this was the view along the way heading to Santo Domingo the next morning.
 
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Camino Frances
Torres del Rio

January 26, 2008



Beneath a winter sky Torres del Rio is encircled by the rio Linares and riverside vegetation.
On the extreme right amidst the rooftops rises the tower of the octagonal Romanesque church, Santo Sepulcro.
In the distant middle view soars the tower of the Iglesia San Andres.
Further west in the far distant middle view the camino path towards Viana crosses the gully, Mataburros/Mule Killer!
 
Rowena said:
April 8, 2022
Looking back at Castrojeriz
Click to expand...
I'm always enthralled by pictures like this that tell a geological story. Notice that your vantage point on the Alto, the crest of the hill at Castrojeritz Castle, and the more distant horizon form a perfectly flat plane. It's the top of the Paramo Limestone which was deposited in a huge lake that used to be the lowest point of the Duero Basin, (what we now call the Meseta). Subsequent erosion has cut through it giving us the fertile valleys that we walk through from Hontanas and Hornillos.
 
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I liked this little roadside stamp station in Gião, on the first stage out of Porto on the central route.
Just a little further on, a lovely young shopkeeper wouldn't charge me for a large bottle of ice cold water I wanted to buy. "You are a pilgrim, therefore it's free", she insisted.

 
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Logroño
Iglesia de Santiago el Real

January 27, 2008



This bi-level door front depicts Saint James in two different guises associated with his hagiography.

On the lower level he is a gentle pilgrim wearing a hat and cape, holding a staff and shell. The upper level depiction is as Matamoros or Moor slayer riding a spirited white horse beneath which lie slain Moors. This depiction evolved after the 9th c. battle at Clavijo where the Spanish king while fighting Moors "saw" in the sky an apparition of Saint James on horseback. Thus, the victorious Spanish began the Reconquest of Spain.
 
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Camino Way markers in Bronze
The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.
VNwalking said:
...the immensity of the endeavor...
View attachment 140345
Click to expand...
You just reminded me of my own this-is-it moment on Camino #1, day #1, the VdlP.
I had cycled through the traffic from Triana, and just past Santiponce found myself abruptly on "The Track". I really felt the trepidation of the moment, the arrow-straight way into the unknown. I had a tripod and camera, and faked this selfie, thinking "I must remember this".

A mile or so later I met my first fellow peregrino at the arroyo, who carried my bike for me over the log bridge - strangely no photo!
 
Camino Frances
Nájera
Santa Maria la Real
museum interior

January 28, 2008



Early this century the 11th c Santa Maria la Real monastery reopened/repurposed as a museum following a two year renovation.
Restored this painted trompe l'oeil cupola was magnificent; however in the dim ambient light most sculpture and many royal tombs were difficult to see.
 
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Crucero de Santo Toribio. 2011. On the way to San Justo de la Vega and Astorga.

San Martín del Camino - Astorga | Camino Francés | Gronze.com

Hasta Hospital de Órbigo la etapa sigue la misma pauta que la de ayer; luego, tras interminables días de llanura, caminamos por fin por un terreno ligeramente montañoso. Nada comparado con lo que nos espera. En la bonita Astorga, la Asturica Augusta romana, podremos admirar la catedral y el...
www.gronze.com

More info on Santo Toribio.

Turibius of Astorga - Wikipedia

en.wikipedia.org

 
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Rowena said:
April 11, 2022 Carrion de Los Condes
Iglesia Nuestra Señora de Belen, overlooking the Rio Carrion

View attachment 140430
Click to expand...
Rowena, this is an interesting photo of a church we didn’t recognise, so we looked it up. It’s not clearly mentioned in Brierley and on the net it is described as being north west from Carrion. Could you see it as you were leaving the town crossing the bridge or did you go and visit it out of town?

Just had a relook at our photos and there it was but in the early morning light on 31,May, 2022 at 6.14am! We have no photos of it in 2014!
Thank you for posting your photo.
 
@Anne&Pat,
The church is not out of town, it would be at the northwest end of town. I stayed at the Casa de Espiritualidad run by the Philippine sisters of Nuestra Señora de Belen, and was able to visit the church adjacent to the Casa. The church was built at the edge of the cliff, and has been heavily shored up over the years.
Here are photos of the interior of the church and of the Casa de Espiritualidad (Notice the security fence surrounding it. The door was kept locked at all times too, so that guests had to ask to be let out of the building.) It was Palm Sunday, and I was also able to visit the Semana Santa museum close by.

 
Camino Frances
Granon
San Juan Bautista

photo taken January 30, 2008



Granon was as always a remarkable stop.

The hospitaliero, a young polyglot Spanish fellow and his Latvian girlfriend had prepared a bountiful supper for us pilgrims. It was a treat to meet, eat and talk together around the candlelit table. Later after attending a simple prayer service in the church we went to bed or more accurately to our mats on the mezzanine.

...Once again authenticity and true ‘caritas’ made Granon special.
 
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Viloria de la Rioja
refugio Acacio & Orietta

January 31, 2008




Walking west along a frozen path I stopped here for hot coffee and a chat. The hospitality of this Brazilian/Italian couple was generous and their multilingual camino library outstanding! Next time I would like to stay longer and read.
 
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Villafranca Montes de Oca
municipal albergue

February 1, 2008



Returning to the municipal albergue set in a repurposed school on route N-120 where I had stayed on past caminos felt like coming home; it was simple, sufficient and filled with winter memories. For within this dorm earlier in 2006 I had sheltered when a whiteout developed into a true blizzard.
 
Camino Way markers in Bronze
The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.
mspath said:
...when a whiteout developed into a true blizzard.
Click to expand...
I'm hesitant to ask, being a bit of a dummy in this respect, but how do you pull off that trick of linking to another post with the blue highlighting? (I clicked on it, by the way, and was glad I did!)
 
There is no trick. Remember all my text is written via a Samsung telephone.

1. The post to be cited is linked using



2. New text is written on blank page and linked to the citation by tapping and filling the form in 3. below.



3. Fill the top space with the link and write any text in the lower space. That text will appear in blue as the hot link. Hit insert and Voila!

 
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2nd ed.
In 2012 I brought a stone from home, with no prior notion of where I would leave it on the VdlP. The cross just after Portocamba, on the heights above Laza presented itself as the perfect place. It was an emotional moment, and I took several photos. Is the cross still there, I wonder? It might not have survived the chaos of the nearby construction works in subsequent years.

A small chunk of West Australian granite, more than 4 times the age of the eclectic mix of local Sanabrian rocks in the pile.
 
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Alto de la Pedraja
crossing the Montes de Oca

photo taken February 2, 2008, am



Walking ahead is Polo, a French pilgrim who needed a shepherd and, thus, I shared trail tips and pics. Although we both were wearing sturdy waterproof hiking boots for trudging through snow I worried about hidden ice.
 
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Camino Frances
Burgos
Plaza de la Libertad
Casa del Cordón

photo taken February 4, 2008



The highlight of a rest day in Burgos.
was meeting a charming French speaking hospitalera shown in this view for a guided visit at this restored 15th c. palace, Casa del Cordón, presently used as a bank/exhibition space. Carved in stone the heavy ropes/cords which surround the main door give this sumptuous palace its name.
 
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That is a massive door knocker!
 
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A selection of Camino Jewellery
Albergue municipal in Cacabelos.2011.
Two beds per small cabin, gathered around the church.

Albergue municipal de Cacabelos :: Albergues Camino de Santiago

Información completa del albergue de peregrinos de Cacabelos: dirección, contacto, características, precios, plazas, equipamientos, etc.
www.alberguescaminosantiago.com

 
Camino Frances
Hornillos de Camino.

February 5, 2008



In the incessant wind I was very cold viewing Hornillos de Camino on the horizon before descending into town where new heating had just been successfully installed in the municpal albergue. It was so wonderfully warm that I laughed in delight at the unexpected treat of that heat!
 
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April 17, 2022
Albergue Villares de Orbigo



I stayed at this albergue, new in 2021, run by a very welcoming Dutch couple in a beautifully refurbished old building. One other pilgrim arrived, a young man from Germany. We were treated to a delicious dinner with our hosts in the garden behind this lovely courtyard.
 


Good to see this albergue active and running.
The Dutch couple bought it from forummember Ltfit. Before her it was Belgian Christine who owned the place. I was there when Christine operated the albergue.
Just like you I shared the place with just one other pilgrim.
 
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An evening walk in Porto, passing the beautiful Livraria Lello. July 28, 2015. I would have liked to visit but it felt too complicated for my mood at the time. Had to find the kiosk to buy a ticket for entry and then wait in a line to go in. It felt better to explore more of night-time Porto.

 
Also stayed there, in 2014, with Christine. Had a great time. Saw a delightful Canadian couple again, whom we had first met in Leon at Albergue Santa Maria de Carbajal in the smaller room for couples! Unfortunately the gentleman had developed very bad conjunctivitis, so Christine very kindly took him to the nearest hospital by car. Later we all enjoyed a delicious meal indoors.
 
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Castrojeriz
Real de Oriente, 43
La Taberna

February 6, 2008




The barista/owner said "Hola Americana!" as I entered once again this favorite bar/resto. What a memory! Always most welcoming and a natural diplomat he then elegantly served a pot of true hot chocolate with thick slices of hot buttered cinnamon toast, my usual midmorning winter combo!
 
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In Vitoria / Gasteiz (Camino Vasco del Interior) there is also another Casa Cordón.
The visit is interesting.

 
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Mostelares plateau.

February 7, 2008



The ascent up this Mostelares plateau was steep. However, the gravel path was broad and the panorama from the top superb!

One could see widely for many kilometers;



towards the east the path just taken



and towards the west the path to be followed.

...
 
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Rowena said:
April 19, 2022
Church doorway, El Ganso

View attachment 141101
Click to expand...
This was a very welcome stop for us nearly two months later in June, 2022. It was a hot day and we were looking for somewhere to have a rest and a wee picnic! The right hand seat outside the church was in shade, so was perfect. There was one other person sitting there already, doctoring his feet. A lovely peregrino from Ireland. We ended up walking with him off and on to Ponferrada, where he was finishing his Camino and heading home to return again in the future. We stayed in the same accommodation in Molinaseca, but didn’t realise it until breakfast time!
Unfortunately the church was closed.
We only have a photo of the back of the church and steeple, taken because of the storks!
 
Camino Frances
Fromista
Iglesia San Martin

February 8, 2008



Once part of a large monastery the Iglesia San Martin, a small 11th c. Romanesque church, now unconsecrated is a museum.
On the exterior several hundred carved figures decorate the eave corbels below the roof. Atop the many interior columns are stunning even shocking capitals.



This one, la Concordia, located inside the south entrance is quite explicit!
 
Hornillos del Camino, departing in the morning, passed San Roman Plaza de la Iglesia and the Fuente del Gallo. We love this little quiet village and especially staying with Samuel in his delightful Casa Rural Sol a Sol, we also stayed there in 2014.
This time we experienced the wonderful Pilgrim Mass in the Iglesia.
May, 2022.
 
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Camino Frances
Villalcázar de Sirga

photo taken February 9, 2008



Polo relaxed in front of the resto, Mesón losTemplarios which appeared to be definitely upmarket. Entering we both were led to a table separate from the more prosperous diners, ie. truly below the salt. Nevertheless our copious/ well "watered" pilgrim menu was a delicious treat for only 11€ each!
 
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