March 27, 28, 2007
Santiago de Compostela
Mid-day I arrived in Santiago de Compostela after 7 weeks walking. After hiking at least 5 hours daily while always carrying my fully loaded backpack, I am sincerely thankful that I made it!
Weary but thrilled, I feel as if I have been rehewn during this pilgrimage. My bones may be the same but much else seems configured differently from how I set out weeks ago at Saint Jean Pied de Port. As always I have relearned which qualities are most important - caritas, sincerity, tenacity, endurance and, of course, enjoying serendipity.
Walking the calle de los Concheiros (after conca or shell), rua de San Pedro and finally entering the medieval city through the Puerta del Camino my heart beat faster as I hurried along the narrow pedestrian lanes, rua Casas Reales, rua das Animas and plaza Azabacheria (after jet jewelry craftsmen).
And there it was! The cathedral!
At the simple northeast corner, not a major entrance, I put my hand on the ancient stone wall offering silent thanks for all that had been which enabled this and wept. ....Again at the pilgrims' office on the nearby rua Vilar receiving my third treasured Compostela, I wept.
I found a room at the Libredon Barbantes hostal on the Paza de Fonseca literally around the corner from the cathedral; the compact space with private shower/toilet was a bargain at 23 € per night.
Here I can see church towers from the ceiling window as well as hear the great bells toll. I love it and feel like Quasimodo at Notre Dame; now this is my cathedral!
The Libredon does not offer breakfast, but
nearby at 35 rua del Vilar is the wonderful Cafe Casino.which has existed since 1873.
Open from 9am to after midnight they serve breakfast, drinks and simple meals. The old-fashioned decor (but newly upgraded with WiFi) reminds me of the Algonquin in NYC when I was much younger. You can happily sit in the Casino for hours while nursing a drink watching the world go by.
After a welcome siesta I entered the cathedral to give thanks and sat silently within the dim interior for a long time...Of course like most pilgrims I, too, hugged the statue of Santiago before leaving.
At noon on
March 28 I attended the daily Pilgrim Mass. It was beautifully sung by the same nun as last year. Since this is Lent it was an 'austere' service without any choir or swinging of the famous Botafumeiro censier.
Only 20 or so pilgrims were present; we nodded, silently smiled and gestured a euphoric thumbs up to each other, not wanting to break the sacred silence.
During the service the locations from which we each began our walks were announced. It was hard to imagine that soon all would go their separate ways.
Whatever one believes, however one sees this world, it is impossible not to be touched and moved in Santiago de Compostela and at this most special cathedral. The weight of history is heavy with the accumulated layers of centuries, both visible and invisible. One can see much and also feel or imagine more such as throngs of past pilgrims following the same timeless routesl towards the cathedral.
As the priest said this morning for centuries and centuries the pilgrims have been coming and shall continue to come.
.....
At twilight I again returned to sit alone in the nave at peace. ...How I hope that I shall be able to return again another year.
.....Tomorrow I will walk towards the sea at Finistera.