On the Camino, on this date in December...

[trecile]

Here's a new thread to post pictures, musings, etc. from any year for any dates in December on any Camino route.

When you respond, please mention the year, route you were on and where you walked (or rested) that day. Thanks!

Also, if you are posting multiple pictures upload them as thumbnails.

 

[mspath]

December 1, 2008
Across the Hills
Mailly le Chateau

After yesterday's full day of bedrest it was an easier 14 km to Mailly le Chateau following in part the Canal du Nivernais.
At Trucy sur Yonne I turned slightly west to walk alone through farmland along l'ancien route d'Auxerre á Vézelay/the old route from Auxerre to Vézelay! I was getting closer.




My husband Bill arrived by car. Our chambre d'hote/b&b for the night was called El Camino with a painted shell, the shell of Saint James, for its sign. Warm and cosy it also boasted a fine collection of books about the trail. Our friendly hostess had walked to Santiago in 2000; she and I compared memories of earlier walks.

 

[mspath]

December 2, 2008
Across the Hills
Châtel Censoir



It was lonely and cold walking past these huge rocks known as the Rocher du Saussois.
My right leg still hurt a lot. Since Bill had the car he took my backpack while I limped 12 km following the Nivernais canal to Châtel Censoir, a small village, which takes its name from Saint Censure or Censoire, 5th c. bishop of Auxerre.

After a good lunch I rested all afternoon at a chambre d'hote/b&b; unfortunately even indoors whenever I moved my walking stick was necessary for support.

...to be continued

 

[mspath]

December 3-4, 2008
Across the Hills
Vézelay

Without a pack beneath light rain I followed routes D21/D36 the final 19 km into Vézelay. Staggering up the last hill I knew that physically a long pause was necessary; my right leg was almost useless.
Bill and I checked into the very comfortable, L’Hôtel de la Poste and tried to relax.

Next morning together we visited the magnificent Abbey church of Saint Mary Magdelaine, which is a UNESCO world heritage site. For the last 50 years or so ever since university days I have loved the interior of this structure. Romanesque, Gothic, and 19th c. intervention are combined into timeless beauty. Here eternal peace is blended with man-made perfection. Might this incomparable site endure for another thousand years.



Bill took a photo of me entering the light of the ambulatory silently thankful to be here once again while vowing to continue when possible.

... We then drove back 220 km to our farmhouse following in 3 1/2 hours the route which had taken me almost 2 weeks to walk.

.....And today in December 2021 more than ever I am thankful for these memories.

"This thou perceiv'st, which makes thy love more strong, To love that well, which thou must leave ere long."
Shakespeare, Sonnet LXXIII

 

[VNwalking]

What was amiss with your leg, @mspath? It sounds like it was serious. But you made it!
Well done.
So precious, these memories.

 

[mspath]

December 5, 2011
Negreira

Two days earlier I had walked into Santiago de Compostela and completed my 7th camino. Thus December 5, 2011, after a farewell view of the cathedral I started towards Finisterre on the Atlantic coast.

Following rua de Hortas and rua Poza de Bar to the Carballeira (oak wood) of San Lourenzo I eventually crossed the tiny pedestrian bridge over the Sarela river.



At this rather ad hoc gate a narrow dirt path began.



The path was up/down but never steep across many hills through eucalyptus wood. Being back in the countryside was relaxing; everyone took the time to say Hola, point out the route, and wish Buen Camino.



At Ponte Maceira the Tambre river rapids moved swiftly. The thought of crossing was rather frightening but I did it.

After 22km tired and hungry in Negreira I stopped at the Cafe Bar Imperial for a VERY good and copious menu del dia. The friendly barman/owner is English and his wife Spanish; they diplomatically recalled my previous visits.

Walking to the Xunta albergue took only a few minutes; it was quite busy with 18 pilgrims for 20 single beds, not bunks, but I quickly unrolled my sleeping bag and tried to fall asleep because the next day would be difficult.

 

[mspath]

December 6, 2011
Vilaserio




Through unceasing rain and sticky mud I walked 12 km to Vilaserio yet the hamlet seemed extremely remote.

There were two albergues, one private and one municipal. The municipal winter albergue where I had stayed during earlier caminos was very basic in a repurposed school.

Since last year it had been bitter cold in the old school this year I chose the private Albergue O Rueiro near to and run by the only bar/resto.This had comfortable facilities, hot water and many blankets but no heat!! Indeed, I was the only pilgrim.

Nevertheless after eating at their bar a copious hot meal next door in the albergue dorm I chose a bunk away from any cold outer wall and placed my sleeping bag within a folded blanket or two. Wearing my wooly hat and winter tenue de soirée/evening attire slept chilled but not frozen for 15 hours.

 

[mspath]

December 7, 2011
Olveiroa


The winding trail meandered through tiny hamlets and many pastures. After 20 km in the rain I arrived soaked and muddy at the Xunta albergue in Olveiroa; the kind hospitalera remembered me by name!



Here adjacent stone buildings have been handsomely repurposed; a narrow path separates dining/commons room and dorms.



Bright plaid blankets cover bunks; tiled bathrooms have hot water and good showers. Pilgrims can relax and/or eat together in the commons room.

Nearby is a great pension/resto, As Pias This pilgrim friendly bar/restaurant is open to all since 2007 and private accommodation is also available. In recent years I often ate a delicious menu del dia in their small back dining room next to a blazing fireplace; this was very cosy during late autumn/winter visits.

Nevertheless I always slept in the Xunta albergue dorm.

 

[mspath]

December 8, 2011
towards Cée


Sunrise at Olveiroa was splendid; the rain had finally ceased. All was good to go; early without breakfast I started walking.

A footbridge crossed the rio Hospital; looking at the cold water I was glad that the bridge was sturdy and new!



The river and nearby hamlet are named for a pilgrim hostel, which probably existed in the middle ages.




The routes to Muxia and Finisterre split at the juncture DP 3404/ DP 2302. On the right DP 3404 went to Muxia; I turned left on DP 2302 towards Finisterre.



Hidden in the wood on a dirt path off DP 2302 this giant rock with petroglyphs seemed magical and a bit threatening as if it might erupt.

The soon widened trail slowly climbed/crossed stoney hills and broad pastures as well as eucalyptus and pine wood.




At last from a hilltop near Cée I could glimpse the silvery Atlantic ocean and Finisterra in the far distance. What excitement medieval pilgrims must have felt when they first saw that sea!

Descending to Cée was steep and slippery. After crossing to Corcurbion, then turning west, following a creek and some very muddy lanes I finally arrived at the pleasant hilltop albergue San Roque de Corcubión. In a repurposed school this was a very friendly place run by local volunteers. After enjoying a donativo dinner with 2 other pilgrims and tired from walking 21 km, I needed to sleep.

Through a bunk-side window in the dark dorm I could see the Finisterre lighthouse beacon shining on the sea.
...All was molten silver.

 

[mspath]

December 9, 2011
towards Finisterre

Just after dawn I walked alone the final kilometers along the sea to Finisterre and beyond towards Cape Finisterre.



Wayside views were shore, scrub, and endless sea. The wind was brutal and the surf rough, but it was glorious to just be in the salty air.



Entering Finisterre on the camino path along the beach I happily relaxed by these boats to enjoy some local mariscos. Nearby at the municipal albergue I asked for a Fisterrana certificate, after confirming that I had walked from Santiago de Compostela. Indeed, I had!



Rain and tears were pouring down when later I finally reached kilometer 0 at the old iron cross by the famous lighthouse.

There at land's end my 7th Camino Frances ended after 1000 kilometers and nine weeks walking; silently I gave my heartfelt thanks for all that had been and for all those that had helped to make it so.

....
PS.
Late that night during a sleet storm I returned to Santiago de Compostela and walked into San Martin Pinario without any reservation. My poncho and pack were coated with ice. The rather elegant concierge said "Good evening Madame I trust that you ARE a pilgrim" and promptly handed me a key to this regular private room for which I was only charged the 23€ pilgrim rate!



There was no need to show any Credencial since no regular tourist would be out walking during such weather!!

Such serendipity was sybaritic !

 

[mspath]

December 10, 2011
Backward to Portugal

After completing my 7th CF and continuing to Finisterre I then walked to the Portuguese border at Tui/Valença do Minho to join Bill, my husband, for a holiday. This involved going backward down the Camino Portuguese from Santiago and not up the CP to Santiago.



To go backward was more complicated than you might think; searching for the painted yellow arrows pointing opposite my direction was not easy. Viewed backwards the arrows resembled anchors. In reverse of the norm I needed to walk from the arrow tip up the shaft.

Thus it all was a bit of an unending treasure hunt!

 

[mspath]

December 10, 2011
Backward to Portugal
Padron

Walking southwest from Santiago de Compostela I crossed much of old and new suburbia plus a few vegetable gardens to finally arrive after 20 km at Padron near where tradition states that Santiago's stone boat landed.



I was too tired to explore in depth but the Fuente del Carmen was centrally located. Legend says that here water flowed miraculously when James struck three times with his staff. In the niche his figure baptizes Queen Lupa, whom he converted to Christianity. A panel below depicts the
" traslación del apóstol Santiago por sus discípulos". Traslación is the act of moving Saint James body in a stone boat.

Nearby was the centrally located
Xunta albergue. Although this was a handsomely renovated stone townhouse, it had little heat and no blankets that cold December night.

Next morning at an early breakfast in a local cafe the barmaid bemused by my
backward route at 71 alone in winter asked for this memento.

 

[mspath]

December 11, 2011
Backward to Portugal
to Caldas das Reis



A few hours after leaving Padron I passed two basics, a pilgrim's water gourd and shell, which in their tangibile materiality seemed far more meaningful than many carved symbols.

Next came a long cold slog through foggy forest to finally reach Caldas das Reis, a Roman thermal town.

Much was closed for siesta; I was pooped and could neither find the tourist office nor an open albergue.

When I entered to ask at the local police station they formally stamped my Credential



and pointed me towards an open albergue. Luckily it was next to a friendly bar/resto which had the key and near the town's famous thermal fountain which freely spewed hot water.



After getting the key and eating a copious/delicious menu del dia I took a long hot shower. Although without room heat the albergue did provide plenty of very hot water. Naturally.

 

[mspath]

December 12, 2011
Backward to Portugal
to Pontevedra

After an easy hour on the camino, during a dense fog I lost the path near Briallos and then nervously walked along the verges of busy highway N-550 as trucks rumbled past.



Thus at Lugar San Amaro 6 on the N-550 roughly 12 km south of Caldes das Reis /9 km north of Pontevedra I passed this bizarre airplane. It is perhaps the oddest object I have ever seen while walking in Spain; there was no sign of why or how it "landed".

By mid afternoon or Spanish lunch time I finally arrived in Pontevedra. This prosperous maritime city on the rio Lérez which leads to the sea boasts a handsome central historic district crossed by small intriguing streets.

I quickly visited the 18th c. circular Santuary of the Virgin Pilgrim and later found a seat nearby on the Praza Ourense at a resto/bar where I enjoyed a great menu del dia. It was good to sit after my morning stroll.

Mellow and relaxed after lunch I followed the Rua de Gorgullon south to the bus/train station and the Xunta albergue which was new and commodious with wonderful calefacción central/heat!

The heat was a treat for the one other pilgrim, a young woman who had walked from Lisbon, and me! We happily chatted in French about our walks; she was going up and I was going down. However we both were tired and went to bed soon after sunset.

 

[mspath]

December 13, 2011
Backward to Portugal
to Redondela

Walking 18 km to Redondela mostly on highway N-550 verges the rain was incessant.
Giant trucks splashed puddles as they whizzed past making me move fast. All was a wet mess!

I was truly soaked upon arrival at the
Xunta albergue. Original stone, plus new wood and black ceramic tile had been used in this repurposed renovation of an historic townhouse, Casa da Torre. It was both comfortable with cosy heat and hot showers and handsome with sophisticated spaces.



Only one other pilgrim and I shared the open dorm. He was a lonely young baker from southern France; chatting with him I learned a bit too much about farine/flour, the good, the bad, etc. Thus I went to bunk early exhausted from hearing his seemingly endless knowledge of wheat plus the drumming of constant rain!

 

[mspath]

December 14, 2011
Backward to Portugal
to 0 Porriño

Dry weather helped make walking 14 km to O Porriño much more comfortable than yesterday. Nevertheless it still was not easy to see/find those "backward" arrows.



This Roman milestone was 6 km south of Redondela in a camino path/back lanes mix near Capela de Santiaguño. It marked the Via XIX which had connected Braga to Lugo via Santiago. This is located on Google maps as Milario de Vilar long./lat.42.229640,-8.610992.



For an informative site with photos/maps of some Roman routes which crossed present day Spain and Portugal see Vias Atlanricas

Back again on the camino path I continued to O Porriño and found the Xunta albergue. It was new, comfortable, well heated and had many separate sitting areas. Before checking in I ate a menu del dia at Hostal Maracaibo a small pension/resto nearby. The good food, inexpensive price and welcome were great.



Tonight would be my last of 2011 in an albergue. Before I went to sleep Bill texted me this billet doux ,
"Congratulations! Now let's have some holiday, kiddo! See you TOMORROW in Portugal!"

 

[mspath]

December 15, 2011
Backward to Portugal
to Tui/Valencça do Minho

Today was a long final slog from 0 Porriño to Tui through the last downpours, following muddy forest paths and urban sidewalks.

After 2 months 5 days of walking it was time to rejoin Bill who was waiting for me parked in front of the Tui cathedral!! I opened the car door and as if passing through the famous Narnia wardrobe I no longer was a pilgrim walking alone.

Together (!) we drove (!) to Valença do Minho, Portugal, crossing the river on the 19th c. International Bridge attributed to Eiffel.



After entering the hilltop 17th c. fortress designed by Vauban we stayed at the very comfortable Pousada Sao Teotonio.

All seemed sybaritic. At dusk as the lights were lit across the river the panoramic view of Tui from room 68 was very special.

What joy it was to share this together!

 

[VNwalking]

Together (!) we drove (!)

That is a very strange feeling, isn't it?

 

[Sue127]

December 12, 2011
Backward to Portugal
to Pontevedra

After an easy hour on the camino, during a dense fog I lost the path near Briallos and then nervously walked along the verges of busy highway N-550 as trucks rumbled past.

View attachment 114708

Thus at Lugar San Amaro 6 on the N-550 roughly 12 km south of Caldes das Reis /9 km north of Pontevedra I passed this bizarre airplane. It is perhaps the oddest object I have ever seen while walking in Spain; there was no sign of why or how it "landed".

By mid afternoon or Spanish lunch time I finally arrived in Pontevedra. This prosperous maritime city on the rio Lérez which leads to the sea boasts a handsome central historic district crossed by small intriguing streets.

I quickly visited the 18th c. circular Santuary of the Virgin Pilgrim and later found a seat nearby on the Praza Ourense at a resto/bar where I enjoyed a great menu del dia. It was good to sit after my morning stroll.

Mellow and relaxed after lunch I followed the Rua de Gorgullon south to the bus/train station and the Xunta albergue which was new and commodious with wonderful calefacción central/heat!

The heat was a treat for the one other pilgrim, a young woman who had walked from Lisbon, and me! We happily chatted in French about our walks; she was going up and I was going down. However we both were tired and went to bed soon after sunset.

View attachment 114709

did you ever find out about this plane?

 

[mspath]

did you ever find out about this plane?

Sue127,
I asked when nearby and searched online but no I never found out anything.

 

[Sue127]

Sue127,
I asked when nearby and searched online but no I never found out anything.

Someone must know something. Not knowing must have lead to speculation and myth building. How interesting.

 

[mspath]

Someone must know something. Not knowing must have lead to speculation and myth building. How interesting.

Indeed. It is just south of the Cafe bar Maracaibo. In fact they show another view on their web page. If you open Google maps search for Pontevedra and then Lugar San Amaro 6 you can see it tucked into the vegetation.