- Time of past OR future Camino
- So many since 2003.
Part 1 of my Camino Torres jaunt September 2024 ~ Salamanca to Braga
Preamble
Timing is a little ‘after the fact’ but now home and relaxed, I’ve written up my notes to pass on a personal account of the wonderful Camino Torres.
Thanks so much to Luis Q and his amazing work on this spectacular camino.
Special appreciation goes to my ‘WhatsApp support crew’ @peregrina2000, @amsimoes and Luis for your encouragement and helpful tips as I walked.
I began the Torres at Salamanca and walked until Braga. From this point I changed to the Caminho Geira e dos Arreiros until Santiago to complete the ‘triple’ (Nascente/Torres/Geira) that I started in 2021.
If you are considering the Camino Torres, head over to Luis’ website for your preliminary planning and GPS tracks (caminotorres.com). Although written in Spanish, you can find current updated contact details for the albergues and other accommodation options by reviewing each stage.
It’s prudent to plan accommodation 2-3 days in advance.
Please note that the kms presented below are approximate, but pretty close.
Day 1. Sept13 Salamanca (15km taxi to) La Rad – (17km walk to) Robliza de Cojos
Stay: Robliza de Cojos albergue 10€, Current hospitalera is Cristina (contact number on the website, caminotorres.com) Easy communication via whatsapp
Walk: After 2 days of international travel, I decided to cut the first day (32km) down by taking a taxi to La Rad. From there it was a short couple of km to meet up with the camino, very easy. So by 7:30 I was already out into the wonderful summery golden farmland. Surprisingly for this time of year, it was very chilly early in the morning but did heat up later in the day. A very easy walk, fairly straight and a lovely initiation to the Cañada Real. Enjoyed the meander with the pretty white cows, bulls in the distance, black Iberian piggies and drying saggy sunflowers. What gave me regular giggles were the small metal signs attached to fences warning of dire consequences should you dare pick a ‘shroom.
Arriving in Robliza, I was eagerly expecting the local pool bar to be open but unfortunately ‘summer’ was over and it was closed for ‘renovations’. There is a lovely little basic shop called Arcophorum, on LHS before you get to the albergue. Cristina had left a key out for me at the albergue, an old school. Very simple but hot shower and 2 single beds.
Not so much to do here but lie on the grass next to the church or head back to Arcophorum for some bread, fruit and tinned fish for dinner. Oh, and a nice coffee and chat with the locals gathered for news updates. Exit the next day is to the RHS of the shop.
Day 2. Sept14 Robliza de Cojos - San Muñoz 20km
Stay: San Muñoz albergue 10€, Current hospitaleras Amalia and her sister Prudencia. (contact number on the website, caminotorres.com) Easy communication via WhatsApp
Walk: At this time of year, the sunrise in Spain is around 7:30 and still chilly.
A day of similar scenery, very meditative along the Cañada Real. The only excitement came when a wee Bodeguero (Spanish Jack Russell) decided my ankles would make a delicious snack. Walking pole remediation.
San Muñoz is another very small village inhabited by the elders who continue to hold strong in their ancestral homes as the younger ones leave for the bright lights. The only action in town is Bar Chan, with random opening hours. If you let the hospitaleras know that you’d like a meal, they can pre-arrange with the bar. It’ll be simple but filling *wink* The only place to stay is the albergue, which is shared with a family who live there permanently. They are very respectful of pilgrims and explain the shared spaces.
Day 3. Sept15 San Muñoz – Alba de Yeltes 28km
Stay: Alba de Yeltes albergue 10€, Current hospitalera Aurora (contact number on the website, caminotorres.com) Easy communication via WhatsApp
Walk: The first 5km are on a quiet road then back on the Cañada. For me it was a wonderful treat to encounter 2 baby deer meandering through the trees. Today becomes a little more interesting with some steep climbs and river crossings. September, (woop woop) all the rivers were dry so no wading necessary. More agriculture today, some amazing Toros Bravos, sheep and more black pigs. Towards the end of the stage near the Rio Yeltes, I navigated using the official GPS tracks. I did not see any arrows in this area but the official tracks got me to where I needed to be. [hint] I believe there may be a shortcut here when the river is dry.
On arrival to Alba de Yeltes I stopped at the welcoming Bar Nilo for a refreshing beer while waiting for Aurora. She met me and accompanied me to the albergue, 100m away. It is a very comfy space to the side of the community centre. Clean and tidy and even a coffee machine…. morning bliss. There is a bakery in town and I only saw Bar Nilo open. I visited on a Sunday so not sure what other facilities are there. Bar Nilo will feed you and also make a takeaway meal if you ask, but they normally only serve bar snacks for the locals. I was very appreciative that they are willing to care for pilgrims.
Day 4. Sept16 Alba de Yeltes – Ciudad Rodrigo 26km
Stay: Ciudad Rodrigo, 47€ Antigua Audiencia (contact number +34 615079495 Maria Jesus to book direct, tell her you are a pilgrim) Easy communication via whatsapp. Lovely room overlooking the square.
Walk: The first village @7km Bocacara was still sound asleep, café closed. Onto a wide path. A day of cork, oak and scrub. Starting to get a bit more hilly then a wide sandy road in to Ciudad Rodrigo. A lovely town to visit…. walled city with an interesting sizeable cathedral and a Parador (ask to climb the tower for awesome views). A wonderful evening spent filling up on delicious Spanish food and wine.
Day 5. Sept17 Ciudad Rodrigo – Aldea del Obispo 28km
Stay: Aldea del Obispo albergue 10€, Current hospitalera Felipe (contact number on the website, caminotorres.com) Easy communication via whatsapp
Walk: I’d decided to walk the longer 28km today rather than a short day 16km to Gallegos de Arganan (albergue). My reason for this was to attempt to see the next two star forts at Fuerte Concepcion (just outside Aldea) and the next day in Almeida (the best Star fort on this camino). So today was a long day, heralded by a beautiful blood orange moon.
A nice gravel road led me into Gallegos for the first coffee of the day. Look for Bar Aroyo hidden to left when you reach the school. I believe it normally opens around 10am but I was lucky to find the owner had unlocked a bit earlier. Next section to Almeda de Gardon is on a newly sealed road, almost devoid of traffic, although I did meet an elderly farmer walking his equally elderly dog. Later in the stage, there is a wonderful walk where I ran into cattle shenanigans…. very friendly (harmless) and fond of following pilgrims at quite a speed (them, not me *giggle*)
I met Felipe in Bar Rincon de Segunda, the only open bar in the village. Good wine, ok Menu del dia, great company. Lovely albergue, I was given my own room as there is lovely guy, Rafa from Columbia, who sleeps there as well. He works in the windfarms on weekdays and returns home to his family in weekends. Very tidy and considerate of pilgrims. We had a great chat.
Sadly, the Fuerte Concepcion star fort is locked down, you cannot enter now. It was converted into a hotel, now closed.
Day 6. Sept18 Aldea del Obispo – Almeida 13km
Stay: Almeida, 35€ Morgado Hotel (Booking.com) Late checkin at 2pm but go to the attached restaurant to the LHS and the staff will let you leave your bags. Eat ‘menu’ at the pink Bar Francisco, just outside the Star Fort town walls.
Walk: Today I crossed the border to Portugal so gained an hour. Woopy, late start, short day and an extra hour to explore gorgeous Almeida. At the first village across the border, a sweet little ‘old man style’ bar was open in Vale da Mula. Sadly no Pastel de Nata but a super strong café duplo made up for it. Very easy walk mainly on fine gravel farm tracks, the next 2 hours flew by.
Almeida is a wonderful example of a Star fort. Very well preserved, the locals are house proud and a wander inside the walls will keep you busy for a couple of hours. There are some interesting historic sites to stop by and visit so make sure to visit the tourist centre just inside the main wall entrance for a map. I meandered around the old royal stables Picadeiro del Rey and noticed several tour groups taking carriage rides (not for me).
The walls were a highlight and I spent a fair amount of time wandering around atop them, enjoying the views into the distance and imagining life some hundreds of years ago.
There is a strange ‘museum’ that was more impressive for the actual building (check out the roof construction), the original storage galleries. Bonus find, a ‘sweet’ little café/pastry shop selling delicious Pasteis de nata and many other yummies. Poll: do you think that 2 Pasteis de nata at one time is excessive pilgrim behaviour?
Day 7. Sept19 Almeida - Pinhel 24km
Stay: Pinhel, 63€ Casa do Praca (+351 969465553 Suzete or +351 963084297 Pedro) Gorgeous renovated old home right on the plaza. Lovely breakfast, wonderful hosts. Eat a very high quality / well priced ‘menu’ at restaurant Skylab.
Walk: In Portugal, the quality and quantity of signage rapidly diminishes.
Interesting countryside now with more greenery, rivers and the accompanying hills. First village Valverde was ‘closed’ (no bar) and I eagerly continued to the famous bar Maria Julieta in O’Pereiro to meet with the lovely pilgrim-friend Julieta. She is getting on in years and seemed weary. What a treat to sit with her and write a note in her beloved pilgrim diary…. Not until she had made me a couple of coffees and a fresh melty-cheese bread roll. Such a treasure and definitely one of those ‘special pilgrim moments’ on the Torres.
Pinhel is a quiet town but seems to be on a tourist trail as I counted 2 tourist offices with a total of 8 staff ….. and I was the only visitor that day. Do visit the towers in the old walls and learn about the falcon emblem of the town from the ladies in the turismo *wink*
Day 8. Sept20 Pinhel – Trancoso 35km
Stay: Trancoso, 35€ Dom Denis (+351 963242455) Basic, clean. They will drop off a ‘brekky bag for the morning if you wish. Eat ‘menu’ at Portas d’el Rei (lots of locals). A MUST visit in the evening is the Tasca Tipica Bar Castico (in a little side street, ask a local). Wonderful food and local wines.
Walk: The weather had packed in and I started out in heavy rain. It seemed sensible to walk on quiet roads rather than the muddy tracks. Just after Valbom I turned right to Santa Eufemia, then Sorval (café open on the road!) then joined the camino again in Povoa. About 2km past here (just after the Rio Massueime) there is a rough track steep uphill to the right. Continue for a couple of kms and you meet up with the main camino track again. Beautiful country today, grapes and quince trees.
Keep going to Trancoso… you’ll make it. Very cute town to wander and enjoy a slow afternoon/evening with great food and wine.
Preamble
Timing is a little ‘after the fact’ but now home and relaxed, I’ve written up my notes to pass on a personal account of the wonderful Camino Torres.
Thanks so much to Luis Q and his amazing work on this spectacular camino.
Special appreciation goes to my ‘WhatsApp support crew’ @peregrina2000, @amsimoes and Luis for your encouragement and helpful tips as I walked.
I began the Torres at Salamanca and walked until Braga. From this point I changed to the Caminho Geira e dos Arreiros until Santiago to complete the ‘triple’ (Nascente/Torres/Geira) that I started in 2021.
If you are considering the Camino Torres, head over to Luis’ website for your preliminary planning and GPS tracks (caminotorres.com). Although written in Spanish, you can find current updated contact details for the albergues and other accommodation options by reviewing each stage.
It’s prudent to plan accommodation 2-3 days in advance.
Please note that the kms presented below are approximate, but pretty close.
Day 1. Sept13 Salamanca (15km taxi to) La Rad – (17km walk to) Robliza de Cojos
Stay: Robliza de Cojos albergue 10€, Current hospitalera is Cristina (contact number on the website, caminotorres.com) Easy communication via whatsapp
Walk: After 2 days of international travel, I decided to cut the first day (32km) down by taking a taxi to La Rad. From there it was a short couple of km to meet up with the camino, very easy. So by 7:30 I was already out into the wonderful summery golden farmland. Surprisingly for this time of year, it was very chilly early in the morning but did heat up later in the day. A very easy walk, fairly straight and a lovely initiation to the Cañada Real. Enjoyed the meander with the pretty white cows, bulls in the distance, black Iberian piggies and drying saggy sunflowers. What gave me regular giggles were the small metal signs attached to fences warning of dire consequences should you dare pick a ‘shroom.
Arriving in Robliza, I was eagerly expecting the local pool bar to be open but unfortunately ‘summer’ was over and it was closed for ‘renovations’. There is a lovely little basic shop called Arcophorum, on LHS before you get to the albergue. Cristina had left a key out for me at the albergue, an old school. Very simple but hot shower and 2 single beds.
Not so much to do here but lie on the grass next to the church or head back to Arcophorum for some bread, fruit and tinned fish for dinner. Oh, and a nice coffee and chat with the locals gathered for news updates. Exit the next day is to the RHS of the shop.
Day 2. Sept14 Robliza de Cojos - San Muñoz 20km
Stay: San Muñoz albergue 10€, Current hospitaleras Amalia and her sister Prudencia. (contact number on the website, caminotorres.com) Easy communication via WhatsApp
Walk: At this time of year, the sunrise in Spain is around 7:30 and still chilly.
A day of similar scenery, very meditative along the Cañada Real. The only excitement came when a wee Bodeguero (Spanish Jack Russell) decided my ankles would make a delicious snack. Walking pole remediation.
San Muñoz is another very small village inhabited by the elders who continue to hold strong in their ancestral homes as the younger ones leave for the bright lights. The only action in town is Bar Chan, with random opening hours. If you let the hospitaleras know that you’d like a meal, they can pre-arrange with the bar. It’ll be simple but filling *wink* The only place to stay is the albergue, which is shared with a family who live there permanently. They are very respectful of pilgrims and explain the shared spaces.
Day 3. Sept15 San Muñoz – Alba de Yeltes 28km
Stay: Alba de Yeltes albergue 10€, Current hospitalera Aurora (contact number on the website, caminotorres.com) Easy communication via WhatsApp
Walk: The first 5km are on a quiet road then back on the Cañada. For me it was a wonderful treat to encounter 2 baby deer meandering through the trees. Today becomes a little more interesting with some steep climbs and river crossings. September, (woop woop) all the rivers were dry so no wading necessary. More agriculture today, some amazing Toros Bravos, sheep and more black pigs. Towards the end of the stage near the Rio Yeltes, I navigated using the official GPS tracks. I did not see any arrows in this area but the official tracks got me to where I needed to be. [hint] I believe there may be a shortcut here when the river is dry.
On arrival to Alba de Yeltes I stopped at the welcoming Bar Nilo for a refreshing beer while waiting for Aurora. She met me and accompanied me to the albergue, 100m away. It is a very comfy space to the side of the community centre. Clean and tidy and even a coffee machine…. morning bliss. There is a bakery in town and I only saw Bar Nilo open. I visited on a Sunday so not sure what other facilities are there. Bar Nilo will feed you and also make a takeaway meal if you ask, but they normally only serve bar snacks for the locals. I was very appreciative that they are willing to care for pilgrims.
Day 4. Sept16 Alba de Yeltes – Ciudad Rodrigo 26km
Stay: Ciudad Rodrigo, 47€ Antigua Audiencia (contact number +34 615079495 Maria Jesus to book direct, tell her you are a pilgrim) Easy communication via whatsapp. Lovely room overlooking the square.
Walk: The first village @7km Bocacara was still sound asleep, café closed. Onto a wide path. A day of cork, oak and scrub. Starting to get a bit more hilly then a wide sandy road in to Ciudad Rodrigo. A lovely town to visit…. walled city with an interesting sizeable cathedral and a Parador (ask to climb the tower for awesome views). A wonderful evening spent filling up on delicious Spanish food and wine.
Day 5. Sept17 Ciudad Rodrigo – Aldea del Obispo 28km
Stay: Aldea del Obispo albergue 10€, Current hospitalera Felipe (contact number on the website, caminotorres.com) Easy communication via whatsapp
Walk: I’d decided to walk the longer 28km today rather than a short day 16km to Gallegos de Arganan (albergue). My reason for this was to attempt to see the next two star forts at Fuerte Concepcion (just outside Aldea) and the next day in Almeida (the best Star fort on this camino). So today was a long day, heralded by a beautiful blood orange moon.
A nice gravel road led me into Gallegos for the first coffee of the day. Look for Bar Aroyo hidden to left when you reach the school. I believe it normally opens around 10am but I was lucky to find the owner had unlocked a bit earlier. Next section to Almeda de Gardon is on a newly sealed road, almost devoid of traffic, although I did meet an elderly farmer walking his equally elderly dog. Later in the stage, there is a wonderful walk where I ran into cattle shenanigans…. very friendly (harmless) and fond of following pilgrims at quite a speed (them, not me *giggle*)
I met Felipe in Bar Rincon de Segunda, the only open bar in the village. Good wine, ok Menu del dia, great company. Lovely albergue, I was given my own room as there is lovely guy, Rafa from Columbia, who sleeps there as well. He works in the windfarms on weekdays and returns home to his family in weekends. Very tidy and considerate of pilgrims. We had a great chat.
Sadly, the Fuerte Concepcion star fort is locked down, you cannot enter now. It was converted into a hotel, now closed.
Day 6. Sept18 Aldea del Obispo – Almeida 13km
Stay: Almeida, 35€ Morgado Hotel (Booking.com) Late checkin at 2pm but go to the attached restaurant to the LHS and the staff will let you leave your bags. Eat ‘menu’ at the pink Bar Francisco, just outside the Star Fort town walls.
Walk: Today I crossed the border to Portugal so gained an hour. Woopy, late start, short day and an extra hour to explore gorgeous Almeida. At the first village across the border, a sweet little ‘old man style’ bar was open in Vale da Mula. Sadly no Pastel de Nata but a super strong café duplo made up for it. Very easy walk mainly on fine gravel farm tracks, the next 2 hours flew by.
Almeida is a wonderful example of a Star fort. Very well preserved, the locals are house proud and a wander inside the walls will keep you busy for a couple of hours. There are some interesting historic sites to stop by and visit so make sure to visit the tourist centre just inside the main wall entrance for a map. I meandered around the old royal stables Picadeiro del Rey and noticed several tour groups taking carriage rides (not for me).
The walls were a highlight and I spent a fair amount of time wandering around atop them, enjoying the views into the distance and imagining life some hundreds of years ago.
There is a strange ‘museum’ that was more impressive for the actual building (check out the roof construction), the original storage galleries. Bonus find, a ‘sweet’ little café/pastry shop selling delicious Pasteis de nata and many other yummies. Poll: do you think that 2 Pasteis de nata at one time is excessive pilgrim behaviour?
Day 7. Sept19 Almeida - Pinhel 24km
Stay: Pinhel, 63€ Casa do Praca (+351 969465553 Suzete or +351 963084297 Pedro) Gorgeous renovated old home right on the plaza. Lovely breakfast, wonderful hosts. Eat a very high quality / well priced ‘menu’ at restaurant Skylab.
Walk: In Portugal, the quality and quantity of signage rapidly diminishes.
Interesting countryside now with more greenery, rivers and the accompanying hills. First village Valverde was ‘closed’ (no bar) and I eagerly continued to the famous bar Maria Julieta in O’Pereiro to meet with the lovely pilgrim-friend Julieta. She is getting on in years and seemed weary. What a treat to sit with her and write a note in her beloved pilgrim diary…. Not until she had made me a couple of coffees and a fresh melty-cheese bread roll. Such a treasure and definitely one of those ‘special pilgrim moments’ on the Torres.
Pinhel is a quiet town but seems to be on a tourist trail as I counted 2 tourist offices with a total of 8 staff ….. and I was the only visitor that day. Do visit the towers in the old walls and learn about the falcon emblem of the town from the ladies in the turismo *wink*
Day 8. Sept20 Pinhel – Trancoso 35km
Stay: Trancoso, 35€ Dom Denis (+351 963242455) Basic, clean. They will drop off a ‘brekky bag for the morning if you wish. Eat ‘menu’ at Portas d’el Rei (lots of locals). A MUST visit in the evening is the Tasca Tipica Bar Castico (in a little side street, ask a local). Wonderful food and local wines.
Walk: The weather had packed in and I started out in heavy rain. It seemed sensible to walk on quiet roads rather than the muddy tracks. Just after Valbom I turned right to Santa Eufemia, then Sorval (café open on the road!) then joined the camino again in Povoa. About 2km past here (just after the Rio Massueime) there is a rough track steep uphill to the right. Continue for a couple of kms and you meet up with the main camino track again. Beautiful country today, grapes and quince trees.
Keep going to Trancoso… you’ll make it. Very cute town to wander and enjoy a slow afternoon/evening with great food and wine.
