Notes and Updates from the Camino do Mar (now with waymarks!)

[Dave]

It's awesome to be back on the Camino do Mar, and to really see the route taking shape. When I came here the first time, it was like a treasure hunt, cobbling together an almost useless map with comments from a handful of forum members, and then searching assiduously at every trail intersection for a rumor of a waymark. Now, though, yellow arrows are plentiful! It's not perfect yet, of course, and there are some places that need attention. (Albergues are needed, too!) But through the first three stages, at least, I think you could easily make it through 80% of the Mar, maybe 85%, on the yellow arrows, in conjunction with the Cantabrico markers.

Some notes on each stage that I've cleared thus far. One overarching caveat: every time I point out a problem with waymarking, I'll fully acknowledge that the failure may be on my end!

1) Ribadeo to Praia das Catedrais

• Almost no yellow arrows exist prior to Rinlo. It's not a problem--just follow the Cantabrico along the coast.
• I didn't find a functional fountain until a couple km after Rinlo. Lots of broken ones!
• I made a reservation for Praia das Catedrais, but nobody checked. Maybe just because it wasn't low tide yet?
• I departed Ribadeo at 7:30. It was a Sunday. The first open bar I encountered was at Catedrais
• Not much else to note on this section, but it's an easy one--unless there's a vision for the Mar to not follow the coast all the way around, and instead cut across inland (which I would disagree with), the Mar and Cantabrico are synced up throughout

2) Praia das Catedrais to Foz

• The biggest development is that the Mar turns left off the Cantabrico farther west than it used to, and then it generally proceeds westward along very quiet paved roads. It no longer goes all the way south to the N634 for most of this section, and eventually passes an Eroski supermarket and the Igrexa de San Cosme de Barreiros (as it used to, just from a different angle). This walk is an improvement and the waymarks are good! I'd still recommend staying on the Cantabrico, plus the shortcut advised in the book, but I appreciate this
• The waymarks suddenly evaporated just as the route approached the N634 before the approach to the Rio Masama. I feel pretty good that this one's not on me, as a biker passed me in this moment, and I saw him pull over and consult his maps soon after, just as I was hunting in vain for an arrow
• That said, the arrows picked up quite reliably in the turnoff for Vilaronte, and the arrows are excellent from there onto San Martiño de Mondoñedo. The bar in Vilaronte was closed, but the one in Mondoñedo was open!
• The yellow arrows and San Rosendo are synced up leaving Mondoñedo. These follow a different approach than what I have mapped in the book. If you want to go into the center of Foz, I strongly recommend my approach. The yellow arrows seem to bypass Foz center, while the circuitous approach followed by the San Rosendo... I mean, it's just silly

3) Foz to San Cibrao

• I followed the Cantabrico from Foz to Burela. There's significant construction work going on with this path over the 2km before Fazouro, so be ready to divert to parallel roads. I just don't think it's worth climbing into the hills to get to the official Mar in this section
• Yellow arrows pick back up around Nois / Cangas de Foz. Cangas de Foz has a pretty reliable bar and small grocery just off the Cantabrico
• Last time I was here, highway construction before Burela caused me a lot of trouble, as it disrupted the route. All of that is done now, and the Mar/Cantabrico are synced up for that approach. Some of the waymarking hasn't made it back, but just stick with the trail. One tricky part: when the highway passes underneath the footpath, at the point where that construction project was most intensive, the footpath splits, with one going downhill to the left, and the other going uphill to the right. Go down and to the left! You won't see any waymarks until you reach the end of the footpath, where you'll see Mar and Cantabrico markings
• Thanks to that construction, you no longer have to go all the way down to the port and then backtrack up a steep hill. Instead, catch the yellow arrows calling for a turn uphill. They're pretty reliable leading you out of Burela
• The walk from Burela to San Cibrao is, in my view, the place where the Mar is loads better than the Cantabrico, and I'm thrilled to see pretty good waymarking here
• In particular, the arrows leading to the Sagradelos ruins is super reliable. It follows a slightly different trajectory than what I mapped out (going one track over to the south for a bit), but it's easy to navigate. (One small exception--there's a turn where the arrow is at the base of a power pole, and that pole is covered in bushes
• All of that said, the waymarks pretty much stop the moment you arrive in Sargadelos, and they remain super unreliable until the outskirts of Cervo
• The Sargadelos ruins are so great! There was also an open bar there, which makes everything better
• Arrows from the outskirts of Cervo to the outskirts of San Cibrao were great
• San Cibrao remains one of my favorite spots on any Camino. Even with some brief rain squalls

More to come! I'm prioritizing the coast more often than not from here on, for this trip, but I'll be keeping my eyes peeled for yellow arrows.

 

[Dave]

4) San Cibrao to Viveiro

• The big news is that clear waymarks now guide pilgrims through Xove. The Mar splits with the Cantabrico soon after Hotel/Bar O Castelos, and the yellow arrows are clear. For a bit
• However, after turning left onto a dirt track, they become very spotty. For the most part, it's intuitive--just keep going straight, ignoring turns. Merge onto the highway. (A good, clear wm will take you back off it before too long.) In Xove, though, it's pretty bad. Keep going straight. Note that, when you reach the bus station on the right, there's a bar down the street to the left that was open for breakfast. Otherwise, keep going straight, eventually making a right turn to reach the church. I did not see a waymark there. Then turn right again, looping behind the church. (Note there is a fountain on the right, behind the back gate to the cemetery.) There is a very, very faded arrow here--it looks like someone tried to erase it. Arrows become more consistent again after this, for a bit
• Unfortunately, the arrows evaporate again near a complicated intersection when you rejoin a paved road. Turning right leads to another intersection, with roads going towards Portocelo and Vilachá. The correct move is to loop all the way back around to Portocelo, where the arrows pick back up
• The last 10km of this walk follows the coast, so it's a decent mix of interior walking (looping past a handful of small churches) and seaside. For me... I think I'd still prefer the Cantabrico. The distances aren't that different, and Xove wasn't particularly interesting. Now, if Xove would like to open a municipal albergue...
• The fountain at Praia de Esteiro is broken
• The Cantabrico and Mar appear to be synced up from just before the Mar reaches the coast to Celeiro
• Now, I thought they were synced up all the way to Viveiro. But Oliva at Oli Vita Hostel alerted me to the fact that the Mar is intended to turn inland in Celeiro (as opposed to the Cantabrico, which turns right to join the waterfront promenade), and then take a higher level approach into Viveiro. I couldn't find waymarks for that anywhere, and I also tried backtracking for a bit from Viveiro. I can see the appeal of that approach--there's a good stretch of highway walking on the Cantabrico into Viveiro, but I wouldn't try it without gpx tracks
• Oli Vita Hostel in Viveiro is highly recommended! Oliva is such a huge advocate of the Mar. She even has two sellos available. Some pilgrims opt to stay here for multiple days. The hostel is quite close to the train station, and the old FEVE line passes through many of the towns on the Mar, so it's totally possible to walk a ways, train back to Viveiro, then pop back ahead the next morning.

 

[Corned Beef]

There are a couple of good restaurants in Viverio. There's is a Gastrobar called Arume up from the Hotel Urban/Lavanderia on the waterfront. You can wash, watch and eat. Or further up the hill in Celerio there is the Boa Vista (pricey though)

Great eating there.

 

[Dave]

There are a couple of good restaurants in Viverio. There's is a Gastrobar called Arume up from the Hotel Urban/Lavanderia on the waterfront. You can wash, watch and eat. Or further up the hill in Celerio there is the Boa Vista (pricey though)

Great eating there.

I am sorry to report that Arume is permanently closed! (And sorrier to note that, as a vegetarian, I am supremely ill-positioned to benefit from the spectacular seafood offerings along the Mar. At least I was able to grab a falafel, as all supermarkets are shuttered for the holiday.)

 

[pelerine]

I'd still recommend staying on the Cantabrico, plus the shortcut advised in the book, but I appreciate this

In your #1 post you mention “the book”. What book is this?

 

[Dave]

In your #1 post you mention “the book”. What book is this?

Sorry about that -- I meant my book on the Mar. Still the only one, I think!

 

[Corned Beef]

Good to see you are taking an active interest in keeping your book current. Post-Covid and hopefully post Ukraine, there will be changes to be noted and updated.

 

[Tia Valeria]

Great thread @Dave . Good to see that the route goes into Xove again and the bar-restaurante/pension 'O Castelo' was one of our stops. Do they still have the parrots?? Much of what you describe is the route we walked and we did FEVE hop too.

 

[Aayer]

It's awesome to be back on the Camino do Mar, and to really see the route taking shape. When I came here the first time, it was like a treasure hunt, cobbling together an almost useless map with comments from a handful of forum members, and then searching assiduously at every trail intersection for a rumor of a waymark. Now, though, yellow arrows are plentiful! It's not perfect yet, of course, and there are some places that need attention. (Albergues are needed, too!) But through the first three stages, at least, I think you could easily make it through 80% of the Mar, maybe 85%, on the yellow arrows, in conjunction with the Cantabrico markers.

Some notes on each stage that I've cleared thus far. One overarching caveat: every time I point out a problem with waymarking, I'll fully acknowledge that the failure may be on my end!

1) Ribadeo to Praia das Catedrais

• Almost no yellow arrows exist prior to Rinlo. It's not a problem--just follow the Cantabrico along the coast.
• I didn't find a functional fountain until a couple km after Rinlo. Lots of broken ones!
• I made a reservation for Praia das Catedrais, but nobody checked. Maybe just because it wasn't low tide yet?
• I departed Ribadeo at 7:30. It was a Sunday. The first open bar I encountered was at Catedrais
• Not much else to note on this section, but it's an easy one--unless there's a vision for the Mar to not follow the coast all the way around, and instead cut across inland (which I would disagree with), the Mar and Cantabrico are synced up throughout

2) Praia das Catedrais to Foz

• The biggest development is that the Mar turns left off the Cantabrico farther west than it used to, and then it generally proceeds westward along very quiet paved roads. It no longer goes all the way south to the N634 for most of this section, and eventually passes an Eroski supermarket and the Igrexa de San Cosme de Barreiros (as it used to, just from a different angle). This walk is an improvement and the waymarks are good! I'd still recommend staying on the Cantabrico, plus the shortcut advised in the book, but I appreciate this
• The waymarks suddenly evaporated just as the route approached the N634 before the approach to the Rio Masama. I feel pretty good that this one's not on me, as a biker passed me in this moment, and I saw him pull over and consult his maps soon after, just as I was hunting in vain for an arrow
• That said, the arrows picked up quite reliably in the turnoff for Vilaronte, and the arrows are excellent from there onto San Martiño de Mondoñedo. The bar in Vilaronte was closed, but the one in Mondoñedo was open!
• The yellow arrows and San Rosendo are synced up leaving Mondoñedo. These follow a different approach than what I have mapped in the book. If you want to go into the center of Foz, I strongly recommend my approach. The yellow arrows seem to bypass Foz center, while the circuitous approach followed by the San Rosendo... I mean, it's just silly

3) Foz to San Cibrao

• I followed the Cantabrico from Foz to Burela. There's significant construction work going on with this path over the 2km before Fazouro, so be ready to divert to parallel roads. I just don't think it's worth climbing into the hills to get to the official Mar in this section
• Yellow arrows pick back up around Nois / Cangas de Foz. Cangas de Foz has a pretty reliable bar and small grocery just off the Cantabrico
• Last time I was here, highway construction before Burela caused me a lot of trouble, as it disrupted the route. All of that is done now, and the Mar/Cantabrico are synced up for that approach. Some of the waymarking hasn't made it back, but just stick with the trail. One tricky part: when the highway passes underneath the footpath, at the point where that construction project was most intensive, the footpath splits, with one going downhill to the left, and the other going uphill to the right. Go down and to the left! You won't see any waymarks until you reach the end of the footpath, where you'll see Mar and Cantabrico markings
• Thanks to that construction, you no longer have to go all the way down to the port and then backtrack up a steep hill. Instead, catch the yellow arrows calling for a turn uphill. They're pretty reliable leading you out of Burela
• The walk from Burela to San Cibrao is, in my view, the place where the Mar is loads better than the Cantabrico, and I'm thrilled to see pretty good waymarking here
• In particular, the arrows leading to the Sagradelos ruins is super reliable. It follows a slightly different trajectory than what I mapped out (going one track over to the south for a bit), but it's easy to navigate. (One small exception--there's a turn where the arrow is at the base of a power pole, and that pole is covered in bushes
• All of that said, the waymarks pretty much stop the moment you arrive in Sargadelos, and they remain super unreliable until the outskirts of Cervo
• The Sargadelos ruins are so great! There was also an open bar there, which makes everything better
• Arrows from the outskirts of Cervo to the outskirts of San Cibrao were great
• San Cibrao remains one of my favorite spots on any Camino. Even with some brief rain squalls

More to come! I'm prioritizing the coast more often than not from here on, for this trip, but I'll be keeping my eyes peeled for yellow arrows.

Hey Dave! We are on the Mar right now in Viveiro. Walking to Cuiña on the mar tomoro and then to texeido the shorter way and then down to Cedeira for the night- jumping from coastal to Mar south of Cedeira . The following day to Neda to start the Ingles. Question is for tomorrow or any of the days where there are less facilities- will we find any fountains? Or need to bring all water for the 32 and 37 km days?

 

[Dave]

Aayer, the only way I've gotten water on the Viveiro-Cuiña Mar walk is by knocking on doors. I'll update you on the other stage tomorrow--while I'll follow the coast around, I'll overlap with the Mar through Ponte de Mera, and I'll have my eyes peeled. There is a tabac in Ponte de Mera that sells cold drinks, so that's worth having on your radar if the timing works.

Sorry to miss you! Just one day off.

 

[Dave]

Great thread @Dave . Good to see that the route goes into Xove again and the bar-restaurante/pension 'O Castelo' was one of our stops. Do they still have the parrots?? Much of what you describe is the route we walked and we did FEVE hop too.

View attachment 153575 View attachment 153576

If they have them, I didn't see (or hear) them. And in fairness, the route may have always "officially" gone through Xove, but I looked everywhere for a waymark last time and came up empty.

 

[Aayer]

Hey Dave! We are on the Mar right now in Viveiro. Walking to Cuiña on the mar tomoro and then to texeido the shorter way and then down to Cedeira for the night- jumping from coastal to Mar south of Cedeira . The following day to Neda to start the Ingles. Question is for tomorrow or any of the days where there are less facilities- will we find any fountains? Or need to bring all water for the 32 and 37 km days?

Aayer, the only way I've gotten water on the Viveiro-Cuiña Mar walk is by knocking on doors. I'll update you on the other stage tomorrow--while I'll follow the coast around, I'll overlap with the Mar through Ponte de Mera, and I'll have my eyes peeled. There is a tabac in Ponte de Mera that sells cold drinks, so that's worth having on your radar if the timing works.

Sorry to miss you! Just one day off.

Wow! Does that mean you’re doing the 38 y pico tomorrow and then cabbing it to lodging? So crazy to be a day behind you on the mar- I’ve been listening to your voice and reading your guidebooks ad nauseum. We just did the Norte to Ribadeo and now the mar to the ingles, thanks to your suggestion. The mar/cantabrico is so gorgeous and the beaches wow! Not finding the towns as consistently lovely but that’s ok. Enjoy your walk tomoro- hopefully a bit more clouds than today

 

[Dave]

Wow! Does that mean you’re doing the 38 y pico tomorrow and then cabbing it to lodging? So crazy to be a day behind you on the mar- I’ve been listening to your voice and reading your guidebooks ad nauseum. We just did the Norte to Ribadeo and now the mar to the ingles, thanks to your suggestion. The mar/cantabrico is so gorgeous and the beaches wow! Not finding the towns as consistently lovely but that’s ok. Enjoy your walk tomoro- hopefully a bit more clouds than today

Yeah, today was hotter for sure. Looped around the coast from Viveiro to Cuiña. Awesome, awesome walk. Maybe the best coastal stretch of the Mar... but that last part, from Ladrido, is bleak. Not ideal during the hottest part of the day, but what can you do? I'm stoked to climb back up to San Andres tomorrow, and to actually be able to overnight there!

 

[Aayer]

Omg you can stay there now?!! Ah well. I didn’t know that so we are continuing down to Cedeira tomorrow night. Will you continue onto the Ingles after? How awesome to do ALL of the long ways it sounds like

 

[pelerine]

Sorry about that -- I meant my book on the Mar. Still the only one, I think!

I see! Thank you! Have just ordered your book as I am thinking of walking the Ingles in October. The Ruta do Mar is farther down on the list of caminos I would like to walk. I collect info on all of them, but given my advanced age I am very curious to see which ones/how many I will be able to do. Wonderful thing - planning…..

 

[ChristelMarcAntwerp22]

Hi Dave, all,
i'm very tempted to do the Ruta/Camino do Mar and continue on the Ingles as an alternative for the Norte which is too long for now, cannot get that much time off from work, made already a post/thread on Camino Ingles here but happily noticed your recent posts.
Unfortunately my wife had to undergo a total knee replacement in february this year and still recovering. Hope we can go back to Camino life next year, dreaming of it ever since finishing our first Camino, very cliché but true , w're especially drawn to coastal walks.
Will anyway buy your book to get into it and plan, might consider doing Ingles only still this year end september/early october, we'll see...
Besides some lengthty stages which we can hopefully break up have one major issue, due kneeproblem
we would need to use backpack transfer and do not think this is available yet on the Mar ??

 

[Corned Beef]

Omg you can stay there now?!! Ah well. I didn’t know that so we are continuing down to Cedeira tomorrow night. Will you continue onto the Ingles after? How awesome to do ALL of the long ways it sounds like

There's a very well appointed Casa Rural/Air BnB in San Andres. The village itself seems to die after 6pm once the tourists leave so it's a very peaceful place in the evening. Great views from the windows / veranda

 

[Dave]

I just arrived. This may well be the nicest room I've had in my life. It has a second floor! I was thrilled to just have the chance to overnight in Teixido for the first time, and I proctored an extended-time AP exam to offset the cost, but the quality of the place is remarkable.

 

[Dave]

OK carrying on the notes...

5) Viveiro to Cuiña

• Oliva at Oli Vita confirmed for me that my rendition of the Mar for this stretch remains accurate, so that left me heartened and confident to go full coast for this section, as the Cantabrico splits with the Mar just after Covas and doesn't reunite until Cuiña
• The Cantabrico, too, remains unchanged in this, its last section. However, some of the signposts are aging poorly, and I suspect that some of them have been lost, as there were some thinner stretches for waymarks than I remembered from last time. Nonetheless, there are really no challenges, and I spent the day with minimal glances at the gps
• The walk from Esteiro to O Porto de Espasante might be my favorite section of the Mar. It's just spectacular. Even has the "best bench in the world"
• Dang, the walk from Ladrido, where the Cantabrico ends, through Cuiña is just so, so bad. It's all highway, the shoulder is wide enough for a walker but not much more than that, and the only real break from that comes in Ortigueira. Next time I'm here, I think I might try to cobble together a different approach from O Porto de Espasante, as even the final stretch of the Cantabrico to Ladrido is road-bound the whole time, and it looks like there might be something viable from O Porto. If you're not insistent on walking every step, absolutely take the train from O Porto southward
• And that's the trade-off in this section, really: you can have the highest of highs and the lowest of lows if you follow the Cantabrico, or you can have a very consistent "ok" on the Mar

6) Cuiña to San Andres de Teixido

• Apologies again for the very inconsistent work with tildes/accents. Having real issues cracking that nut on this keyboard
• The Mar waymarks from Cuiña to A Ponte de Mera are more good than bad, though I ran into some badly faded ones that would be easily missed
• The Mar takes a wider berth around A Ponte de Mera than I have laid out in the book. First, if you look east of A Ponte, you'll see a point where the highway curves sharply to the north, and I have the Mar joining it at that point. Instead, the Mar turns southward, and then turns right onto an older paved track through the trees. @Aayer there is a fountain at that second turn! Later, instead of turning right under the train tracks and doubling back to the train station, the Mar continues further south, passes the church and continues south, then goes north, then turns left and goes south again, and then turns right on an easily missed path in the trees onto a bridge, before finally committing to a northward turn into A Ponte. There's another fountain in this stretch and a park that would be a most excellent camping area. But... really, if you'd like to shave off a km, you could take a much more direct approach into A Ponte
• I only saw one yellow arrow after leaving A Ponte, but I was focused more on the trajectory towards the coastal alternate, so the error may well have been mine. Regardless, I'd keep an eye out for the turn-off to the Mar if that's your priority
• The walk from A Ponte de Mera to Cariño mostly follows the highway, alas, and the shoulder is tighter for around 5km of that. It's not terribly busy, and the views are often nice (if you're willing to take your eyes off the road), but it's far from ideal. I don't see a work-around, unless someone would like to launch a pilgrim ferry between O Porto de Espasante and Cariño, which would be amazing and solve all of the problems
• I really like Cariño. The old town has more charm than some of the other villages along the coast in this section
• Last time I was here, I discovered a couple of rogue yellow arrows on the footpath to San Xiao after Cariño. This is also where a seemingly random Camino Cantabrico epilogue appears. Well, those few yellow arrows had been freshened up this time, so I decided to follow them. They lead back on the highway a little ways from San Xiao, and then a yellow arrow calls for a right turn on an overgrown track. I wasn't convinced this was correct, so I walked on a bit, but then I gritted my teeth and dove in. It's a bit overgrown, which some prickly stuff, but not terrible. And later I discovered a very, very faded yellow arrow on a eucalyptus (not the best medium for waymarks, but the only option), and further on I found much more convincing arrows on stone. This actually is another branch of the Mar, and it leads up eventually to what I have mapped out as the coastal variant to Teixido. So, in this section, there are TWO Caminos del Mar
• I ran into not one but TWO pilgrims on the Camino del Mar at the viewpoint by the windmills. Pretty amazing
• I know I just said the stretch in the previous stage is probably my favorite on the Mar, but I love, love, love the higher level walking above San Andres. Totally exhilarating
• Water is good on this route until San Xiao (where there is a fountain). I found nothing after that
• The footpath prior to the cross / Howard memorial is muddy and has a lot of overgrowth. (And it has been pretty dry for a while.) Might be better to stick with the road. And the trail from the memorial is as rocky and wet as ever. Pretty nasty, but I suppose also kind of evocative!
• There is now a Casa Rural in San Andres. It's incredible. Definitely more expensive than I almost ever go for, but not egregious (I'm spending 90 euros in the peak of summer), and impressive value

 

[Corned Beef]

I am sure I saw some paint on the roads just outside San Andres referring to 'lobos". If you talk to a local, could you ask them.

 

[Dave]

I am sure I saw some paint on the roads just outside San Andres referring to 'lobos". If you talk to a local, could you ask them.

Looks like there have been wolf sightings/attacks on livestock in the area in the past! You can find local newspaper articles about it online, too.

 

[Aayer]

OK carrying on the notes...

5) Viveiro to Cuiña

• Oliva at Oli Vita confirmed for me that my rendition of the Mar for this stretch remains accurate, so that left me heartened and confident to go full coast for this section, as the Cantabrico splits with the Mar just after Covas and doesn't reunite until Cuiña
• The Cantabrico, too, remains unchanged in this, its last section. However, some of the signposts are aging poorly, and I suspect that some of them have been lost, as there were some thinner stretches for waymarks than I remembered from last time. Nonetheless, there are really no challenges, and I spent the day with minimal glances at the gps
• The walk from Esteiro to O Porto de Espasante might be my favorite section of the Mar. It's just spectacular. Even has the "best bench in the world"
• Dang, the walk from Ladrido, where the Cantabrico ends, through Cuiña is just so, so bad. It's all highway, the shoulder is wide enough for a walker but not much more than that, and the only real break from that comes in Ortigueira. Next time I'm here, I think I might try to cobble together a different approach from O Porto de Espasante, as even the final stretch of the Cantabrico to Ladrido is road-bound the whole time, and it looks like there might be something viable from O Porto. If you're not insistent on walking every step, absolutely take the train from O Porto southward
• And that's the trade-off in this section, really: you can have the highest of highs and the lowest of lows if you follow the Cantabrico, or you can have a very consistent "ok" on the Mar

6) Cuiña to San Andres de Teixido

• Apologies again for the very inconsistent work with tildes/accents. Having real issues cracking that nut on this keyboard
• The Mar waymarks from Cuiña to A Ponte de Mera are more good than bad, though I ran into some badly faded ones that would be easily missed
• The Mar takes a wider berth around A Ponte de Mera than I have laid out in the book. First, if you look east of A Ponte, you'll see a point where the highway curves sharply to the north, and I have the Mar joining it at that point. Instead, the Mar turns southward, and then turns right onto an older paved track through the trees. @Aayer there is a fountain at that second turn! Later, instead of turning right under the train tracks and doubling back to the train station, the Mar continues further south, passes the church and continues south, then goes north, then turns left and goes south again, and then turns right on an easily missed path in the trees onto a bridge, before finally committing to a northward turn into A Ponte. There's another fountain in this stretch and a park that would be a most excellent camping area. But... really, if you'd like to shave off a km, you could take a much more direct approach into A Ponte
• I only saw one yellow arrow after leaving A Ponte, but I was focused more on the trajectory towards the coastal alternate, so the error may well have been mine. Regardless, I'd keep an eye out for the turn-off to the Mar if that's your priority
• The walk from A Ponte de Mera to Cariño mostly follows the highway, alas, and the shoulder is tighter for around 5km of that. It's not terribly busy, and the views are often nice (if you're willing to take your eyes off the road), but it's far from ideal. I don't see a work-around, unless someone would like to launch a pilgrim ferry between O Porto de Espasante and Cariño, which would be amazing and solve all of the problems
• I really like Cariño. The old town has more charm than some of the other villages along the coast in this section
• Last time I was here, I discovered a couple of rogue yellow arrows on the footpath to San Xiao after Cariño. This is also where a seemingly random Camino Cantabrico epilogue appears. Well, those few yellow arrows had been freshened up this time, so I decided to follow them. They lead back on the highway a little ways from San Xiao, and then a yellow arrow calls for a right turn on an overgrown track. I wasn't convinced this was correct, so I walked on a bit, but then I gritted my teeth and dove in. It's a bit overgrown, which some prickly stuff, but not terrible. And later I discovered a very, very faded yellow arrow on a eucalyptus (not the best medium for waymarks, but the only option), and further on I found much more convincing arrows on stone. This actually is another branch of the Mar, and it leads up eventually to what I have mapped out as the coastal variant to Teixido. So, in this section, there are TWO Caminos del Mar
• I ran into not one but TWO pilgrims on the Camino del Mar at the viewpoint by the windmills. Pretty amazing
• I know I just said the stretch in the previous stage is probably my favorite on the Mar, but I love, love, love the higher level walking above San Andres. Totally exhilarating
• Water is good on this route until San Xiao (where there is a fountain). I found nothing after that
• The footpath prior to the cross / Howard memorial is muddy and has a lot of overgrowth. (And it has been pretty dry for a while.) Might be better to stick with the road. And the trail from the memorial is as rocky and wet as ever. Pretty nasty, but I suppose also kind of evocative!
• There is now a Casa Rural in San Andres. It's incredible. Definitely more expensive than I almost ever go for, but not egregious (I'm spending 90 euros in the peak of summer), and impressive value

Amazing! And do you happen to have made a gpa track for that that is shareable? Another hot day eh? We loved the variety today of the three big hills and the quiet of no people cutting across on the Mar from Viveiro to Cuiña. Do you have any recommendations for in two days time- the walk from Cedeira to Neda- when it’s best to cut over from the coastal route to the inland? For ease I was initially thinking at o Porto do Cabo but we could do it anywhere really. I’ve been using a combo of your book, your gps Trx from a couple years ago on Kamoot and google maps. We might do a late lunch in Texeido tomoro or just keep snacking on our produce and bars and go out in Cedeira. Or both or neither. Texeudo looks super cute. Any recs? Also would love to take you for a drink or coffee in Portland next time I’m up there/ I’m based in oakland. Thanks for all of the info share!

 

[Aayer]

Amazing! And do you happen to have made a gpa track for that that is shareable? Another hot day eh? We loved the variety today of the three big hills and the quiet of no people cutting across on the Mar from Viveiro to Cuiña. Do you have any recommendations for in two days time- the walk from Cedeira to Neda- when it’s best to cut over from the coastal route to the inland? For ease I was initially thinking at o Porto do Cabo but we could do it anywhere really. I’ve been using a combo of your book, your gps Trx from a couple years ago on Kamoot and google maps. We might do a late lunch in Texeido tomoro or just keep snacking on our produce and bars and go out in Cedeira. Or both or neither. Texeudo looks super cute. Any recs? Also would love to take you for a drink or coffee in Portland next time I’m up there/ I’m based in oakland. Thanks for all of the info share!

Never mind on the trx actually as we will be walking across not up and over!

 

[Dave]

Amazing! And do you happen to have made a gpa track for that that is shareable? Another hot day eh? We loved the variety today of the three big hills and the quiet of no people cutting across on the Mar from Viveiro to Cuiña. Do you have any recommendations for in two days time- the walk from Cedeira to Neda- when it’s best to cut over from the coastal route to the inland? For ease I was initially thinking at o Porto do Cabo but we could do it anywhere really.

Yep, I think that idea makes the most sense. You get the great walk down to Cedeira, and then it's not too long to close the gap to O Porto do Cabo. Hope that goes well. And glad to hear you enjoyed the Mar direct to Cuiña. I love the bridge crossing--discovering the map of the Teixido route on my first walk was like finding a second treasure map. And for sure, let me know if you're in Portland!

 

[Dave]

OK, last one for the Mar:

7) San Andres de Teixido to Ferrol

• This is a long but potentially workable "stage" if you're following the Mar (interior approach) direct from Teixido to Naron. I was following the coast. That might make more sense as three stages. Hell of a day, just awesome and something I'll remember forever
• The opening section, from Teixido to Cedeira, is marvelous coastal walking, high on the cliffs above the Atlantic. The arrows (paired yellow and white) are perhaps a little faded in places, but very consistent. I had to navigate around some logging work along the way, but it wasn't a big deal
• Leaving Cedeira is fine at first, but what follows is probably the worst stretch of this stage, with long chunks of walking on the highway. The shoulder is sufficient and the views are often quite nice, but it's prolonged
• The day really picks up after that, though! The walk from Playa Pantin to Valdovino is lovely, and I was struck again by how lively the latter is. Very, very popular with surfers
• The biggest discovery I made this time is that it's actually possible to follow the beach all the way across from Valdovino--even at high tide, which is basically when I hit it, it was still safe to go all the way along Frouxeira. This saves a good chunk of kms, most of which would have been on pavement
• I also better appreciate the value of the Costa Ártabra, a waymarked route that picks up soon after, now, and will shift some of the mapped bits over to better align with that. Absolutely fantastic coastal walking along a dirt track
• My plan had been to camp along the route, but the weather made that unpalatable, so that necessitated cutting off the last chunk of the coastal approach, cutting across the interior. Even that, though, proved valuable. I linked together other, different parts of the Ártabra, which are particularly well marked leading from Ferrol northward with paired purple and yellow arrows. Eventually, this led me to the Ermita de Chamorro, which overlooks all of Ferrol, and I understand is a significant local pilgrimage shrine. I was thrilled to even find it open

It's a tricky walk overall, as that highway section after Cedeira is rough, and accommodation is super limited after that point as well. Given how much longer it is than the Mar, too, I imagine it's a tough sell. But it is absolutely stunning landscapes, and I will be excited to return.

For now, though, it's onto the Camino Ingles, which I began today.

 

[Aayer]

OK, last one for the Mar:

7) San Andres de Teixido to Ferrol

• This is a long but potentially workable "stage" if you're following the Mar (interior approach) direct from Teixido to Naron. I was following the coast. That might make more sense as three stages. Hell of a day, just awesome and something I'll remember forever
• The opening section, from Teixido to Cedeira, is marvelous coastal walking, high on the cliffs above the Atlantic. The arrows (paired yellow and white) are perhaps a little faded in places, but very consistent. I had to navigate around some logging work along the way, but it wasn't a big deal
• Leaving Cedeira is fine at first, but what follows is probably the worst stretch of this stage, with long chunks of walking on the highway. The shoulder is sufficient and the views are often quite nice, but it's prolonged
• The day really picks up after that, though! The walk from Playa Pantin to Valdovino is lovely, and I was struck again by how lively the latter is. Very, very popular with surfers
• The biggest discovery I made this time is that it's actually possible to follow the beach all the way across from Valdovino--even at high tide, which is basically when I hit it, it was still safe to go all the way along Frouxeira. This saves a good chunk of kms, most of which would have been on pavement
• I also better appreciate the value of the Costa Ártabra, a waymarked route that picks up soon after, now, and will shift some of the mapped bits over to better align with that. Absolutely fantastic coastal walking along a dirt track
• My plan had been to camp along the route, but the weather made that unpalatable, so that necessitated cutting off the last chunk of the coastal approach, cutting across the interior. Even that, though, proved valuable. I linked together other, different parts of the Ártabra, which are particularly well marked leading from Ferrol northward with paired purple and yellow arrows. Eventually, this led me to the Ermita de Chamorro, which overlooks all of Ferrol, and I understand is a significant local pilgrimage shrine. I was thrilled to even find it open

It's a tricky walk overall, as that highway section after Cedeira is rough, and accommodation is super limited after that point as well. Given how much longer it is than the Mar, too, I imagine it's a tough sell. But it is absolutely stunning landscapes, and I will be excited to return.

For now, though, it's onto the Camino Ingles, which I began today.

We are in Xubia tonight and begin the ingles tomorrow! Staying in Miño tomorrow, the betanzos with hopes for some beach time or time to explore betanzos. Then Bruma, seguiros and SDC early on the 3rd!

 

[Corned Beef]

But it is absolutely stunning landscapes, and I will be excited to return.

Looking back at San Andres and some of the highest cliffs in mainland Europe. The other pic shows there are at least 6 viewpoints on the short section from Cedeira to San Andres

 

[Aayer]

OK, last one for the Mar:

7) San Andres de Teixido to Ferrol

• This is a long but potentially workable "stage" if you're following the Mar (interior approach) direct from Teixido to Naron. I was following the coast. That might make more sense as three stages. Hell of a day, just awesome and something I'll remember forever
• The opening section, from Teixido to Cedeira, is marvelous coastal walking, high on the cliffs above the Atlantic. The arrows (paired yellow and white) are perhaps a little faded in places, but very consistent. I had to navigate around some logging work along the way, but it wasn't a big deal
• Leaving Cedeira is fine at first, but what follows is probably the worst stretch of this stage, with long chunks of walking on the highway. The shoulder is sufficient and the views are often quite nice, but it's prolonged
• The day really picks up after that, though! The walk from Playa Pantin to Valdovino is lovely, and I was struck again by how lively the latter is. Very, very popular with surfers
• The biggest discovery I made this time is that it's actually possible to follow the beach all the way across from Valdovino--even at high tide, which is basically when I hit it, it was still safe to go all the way along Frouxeira. This saves a good chunk of kms, most of which would have been on pavement
• I also better appreciate the value of the Costa Ártabra, a waymarked route that picks up soon after, now, and will shift some of the mapped bits over to better align with that. Absolutely fantastic coastal walking along a dirt track
• My plan had been to camp along the route, but the weather made that unpalatable, so that necessitated cutting off the last chunk of the coastal approach, cutting across the interior. Even that, though, proved valuable. I linked together other, different parts of the Ártabra, which are particularly well marked leading from Ferrol northward with paired purple and yellow arrows. Eventually, this led me to the Ermita de Chamorro, which overlooks all of Ferrol, and I understand is a significant local pilgrimage shrine. I was thrilled to even find it open

It's a tricky walk overall, as that highway section after Cedeira is rough, and accommodation is super limited after that point as well. Given how much longer it is than the Mar, too, I imagine it's a tough sell. But it is absolutely stunning landscapes, and I will be excited to return.

For now, though, it's onto the Camino Ingles, which I began today.

Oh I realize now that you’re still one day ahead of us! Hopefully you’ll post on the morning JIC there’s an update lol! We are doing the coastal between pontesieme and Miño tomoro- all else seems straightforward.

 

[Dave]

I’ve finished updating the gpx tracks for the Mar following my walk; within a short time, they’ll be uploaded to the Cicerone book page. For now, though, here are some quick-and-dirty maps to help you visualize what has changed. (Apologies in advance--I was in too deep before I realized I should have changed that dashed-green color, and I don't have the time to redo all of those!)

Stage 2 – Towards San Cosme de Barreiros​

Whereas the Mar used to head south immediately after Praia as Catedrais, it now veers inland further west, near the end of Praia Arealonga, and then follows a more southwestwardly approach. It’s all paved, but it does bring you past an Eroski supermarket, which is mighty handy. In this map, the revised “official” Mar is in green, while the Cántabrico is in red.

Stage 4 – The Mar Now Passes Through Xove​

It’s quite the wiggly route, going south, west, north, briefly east, north, west, south… well, you get the idea! There’s not much difference in distance at this point between the Mar and the Cántabrico, and the scenery is much nicer on the latter. In this map, the revised “official” Mar is in green, while the Cántabrico is in red.

Stage 4 – Arrival in Viveiro​

I had no idea that this longer, inland approach was official until Oliva at Oli Vita Hostel alerted me. The Cántabrico certainly isn’t great–there’s a longish highway stretch (with an ample sidewalk). I wonder how many people will have the juice for the Mar’s official approach, though, at the end of a long day! In this map, the revised “official” Mar is in green, while the Cántabrico is in red.

Stage 5 – Around Ponte de Mera​

A small change before A Ponte de Mera (that routes you past a fountain, conveniently), and then a longer, looping change south of the train station. The best part of that longer detour is that it passes through a fantastic spot for camping–a covered wooden shelter with picnic benches and running water. In this map, the revised “official” Mar is in green.

Stage 6 – Between San Xiao and Cabo Ortegal​

There aren’t supposed to be any Camino del Mar arrows here, and yet they magically appear at the Ermita de San Xiao! The waymarking isn’t great, and the trail is overgrown in places, but it’ll save you a little walking if you don’t want to see the lighthouse at Cabo Ortegal. In this map, the “unofficial,” waymarked Mar is in green, while the “official” coastal approach is in red.

Stage 7 – Around Valdoviño​

No need to go inland around the lagoon. You can just follow the beach straight across, even at high tide! Shaves off more than 4km!

Stage 7 – A shortcut to consider, leading into Ferrol​

I didn’t have the time to make the whole coastal approach from Teixido to Ferrol in one day, so I needed to find a way to trim some distance. The first part, heading south just after Praia do Casal, is completely unmarked–I just linked together dirt tracks and some paved roads. Conveniently, though, this eventually overlapped with part of the Senda Costa Ártabra. Paired yellow and purple arrows kicked in at that point, leading me to Ermita de Chamorro, which is a pilgrimage site in its own right, and then to the coast just before Ferrol. It was majority off-road and chopped off a full 16km! In this map, the suggested short-cut is in red, while the “official” coastal approach is in green.

 

[Corned Beef]

I know there is a limit to what you could include as you are trying to keep two caminos separate but you might want to emphasise the other camino routes north of Ferrol that overlap. Shown here

Home - Camino a San Andrés de Teixido

caminosasanandresdeteixido.gal

There is an interesting church near Liñeiro called the Capela Da Fame where pilgrims would stop for food/water. A plain looking building (with pagan symbols) which are in stark contrast to other churches.

 

[Dave]

I know there is a limit to what you could include as you are trying to keep two caminos separate but you might want to emphasise the other camino routes north of Ferrol that overlap. Shown here

Home - Camino a San Andrés de Teixido

caminosasanandresdeteixido.gal

There is an interesting church near Liñeiro called the Capela Da Fame where pilgrims would stop for food/water. A plain looking building (with pagan symbols) which are in stark contrast to other churches.

I've got many of those covered, including the Capela da Fame. That's on the interior route from Teixido, which hasn't changed.