Norte or Frances

[Peregrino27]

Hello!

I need some opinions on this. I am walking the Camino with my 77yr old father in late March, early Spring. We have about 7 days and he is good to walk about 20 to 25km a day, with his backpack. We've walked from Valenca to Santiago on the Portuguese route in 2022, and Ocebreiro to Santiago in 2023. I am thinking of walking Leon to Vilafranca or Irun to Bilbao (splitting the stage from Irun to San Sebastian over 2 days). One caveat is that he would prefer not to stay in an Albergue as much as possible. Scenery, interesting towns are ideal!

Thanks a lot!

 

[Vacajoe]

That section is difficult and might be a bit wet/muddy in March. Although I believe it’s more beautiful than the CF section you mentioned, perhaps it’s beyond your father’s ability? Only you can judge that.


Another option would be from Santiago to Finisterre to Muxia (or the reverse). Each is a “complete” walk earning you a certificate and the route is very beautiful.

 

[davejsy]

I would say the Norte section you mention ticks your boxes the best, assuming your father is ok with the quite significant ups and downs of that beautiful section.

 

[CTLawGal]

That section of the Norte is beautiful with amazing coastal views, I walked the Norte starting in mid-April and was blessed with amazing weather with few days of rain (the week before I started it was cold, windy and rainy, so I was fortunate to have picked a good weather window). If you can wait a bit to start in April you will also be able to enjoy more spring blossoms by then, that’s always a consideration for me, but may be less important to you. As others have noted it is a tough segment with lots of elevation gain, for me that was the hardest week of my Norte/Primitivo route, definitely recommend trekking poles. Only you two will know if this is too much for your father. Another option would be to start the Norte in Bilbao, still beautiful but less elevation gain. I also have a preference for private room and did not stay in albergues, so that’s possible.

 

[Peregrino27]

Yeah, I have been using poles since the Portuguese route I did on my own in 2017. They are a mainstay now. How did you find that section of the Norte with the Primitivo route? The spring blossoms sound ideal, but unfortunately we are limited in our flexibility on when to start.

Thanks!

 

[trecile]

If you think that the ups and downs of Irun to Bilbao might be too much for your father, consider walking from Bilbao to Santander. There is still lots of beautiful coastline, but a little less strenuous.

If you do decide on Irun to Bilbao be aware that there is only one donativo albergue in Pasaia, and it's first come first served with 14 beds. I believe that there is also an expensive hotel there. You could book a place in San Sebastian and take a bus to Irun to start walking the first day, then bus back to the hotel. That way you could walk the first couple of stages without backpacks.

 

[MariaC]

Hello!

I need some opinions on this. I am walking the Camino with my 77yr old father in late March, early Spring. We have about 7 days and he is good to walk about 20 to 25km a day, with his backpack. We've walked from Valenca to Santiago on the Portuguese route in 2022, and Ocebreiro to Santiago in 2023. I am thinking of walking Leon to Vilafranca or Irun to Bilbao (splitting the stage from Irun to San Sebastian over 2 days). One caveat is that he would prefer not to stay in an Albergue as much as possible. Scenery, interesting towns are ideal!

Thanks a lot!

Did Norte this year, starting April 11th. You are choosing the toughest part of the walk. The first 5 days I kept on saying thank you that it was not raining and muddy. Would have been very difficult due to the steepness

 

[CTLawGal]

How did you find that section of the Norte with the Primitivo route?

I think you mean the first part of the Norte with the Primitivo? I walked from San Sebastian to Oviedo, then on the Primitivo to Santiago, and from there on to Finisterre and Muxia. It was my first Camino and I was 64 at the time, walking solo. I loved every minute of it and would go back and do it again in a heartbeat (but want to walk some other routes first), but that first section from Irun to Bilbao was definitely the most challenging in terms of length of stages (which are largely dictated by where you can find lodgings) and elevation gain. I also did luggage transfer because I was a little worried about my knees, I think that helped a lot in my case. If you decide on some stage of the Norte, DM me if you'd like the list of hotels I stayed at for the stage you're considering.

From my first day

 

[monja]

First week is really hard! Especially when it rains. I would also recommend starting in Bilbao. Still are many ups and downs..

 

[JerryStroebele]

If you think that the ups and downs of Irun to Bilbao might be too much for your father, consider walking from Bilbao to Santander. There is still lots of beautiful coastline, but a little less strenuous.

I can only walk for two weeks next fall so am planning Bilbao to Santander. I'm 80 now and Irun to Bilbao is tough. Been there, done that twice. Beautiful. Love the Basque country. Buen Camino

 

[CTLawGal]

I can only walk for two weeks next fall so am planning Bilbao to Santander. I'm 80 now and Irun to Bilbao is tough. Been there, done that twice. Beautiful. Love the Basque country. Buen Camino

That's a beautiful segment! Ditto on Basque Country! Buen Camino!

Walking from Castro-Urdiales

 

[Philtration]

The beautiful scenery between Irun and San Sebastian is on the steeper route (not the easier highway route). I walked (climbed!) that route in mid summer of 2021. Substantial vertical up, but what really did me in was the long, steep downhills. Knees shot, we shifted over to the CF from San Sebastian. If you have good knees, that section of the Norte is truly gorgeous

 

[trecile]

The beautiful scenery between Irun and San Sebastian is on the steeper route

And if the weather isn't clear I would skip the high route, aka "El Purgatorio."
No need to scramble up that hill if you can't see anything anyway!

 

[JerryStroebele]

Philtration's "substantial vertical" is accurate. Ditto Trecile's "El Purgatorio". But worth it on a clear day with no mud. Buen Camino

 

[Sd217]

Did a week on the Norte oct this year awful weather for first 2 days , i thought i was relatively fit but this was in my mind, in bad weather tougher then the Pyrenees .
1 week to Bilbao and i accept i was tired lovely but tough you might need to factor in another day/days or start at Bilbao .
Good luck
Buen Camino

 

[Tincatinker]

I’ll buck the trend here a little and suggest your Leon - Villafranca plan is a good one. It will tick most of your boxes as far as scenery, interesting towns and the availability of private accommodations. Pretty good public transport links at either end as well.

I would plan to spend an extra day in Villafranca if it were me but that’s because two much loved bars and a very good restaurant distract me every time I get there

 

[Peregrino27]

I’ll buck the trend here a little and suggest your Leon - Villafranca plan is a good one. It will tick most of your boxes as far as scenery, interesting towns and the availability of private accommodations. Pretty good public transport links at either end as well.

I would plan to spend an extra day in Villafranca if it were me but that’s because two much loved bars and a very good restaurant distract me every time I get there

Thanks! Yeah, I am weighing the options and pros and cons, and this also doesn't sound like a bad idea. Either way, it sounds like we will have great options with both scenarios.

 

[JerryStroebele]

If you walk from Leon my favorite albergue in Astorga is So Por Hoje, owned by Patricia, a Brazilian who walked the Camino Frances and is a GREAT COOK. I believe she has one or two private rooms. Buen Camino

 

[Damien Reynolds]

And if the weather isn't clear I would skip the high route, aka "El Purgatorio."
No need to scramble up that hill if you can't see anything anyway!

I think 3/6 times I've walked the Norte on that stretch in good weather. It kicks my butt when I do go up that hill. But it is magical. Just know, if you are headed to Donostia, there is 1 more hill to climb after you get down from the first. But the second one is on roads. And stairs.

 

[peregrino_tom]

Irun-Bilbao at the end of March is most likely to be cold and rainy (it was for me), which makes those steep muddy tracks testing and not much fun. Fine, if you are prepared to gamble on weak odds?

I think the Frances is a much better option.
My cheeky suggestion is: why not start at the beginning of the CF (St Jean-Roncesvalles is no harder than a muddy Deba-Markina) or from Pamplona. Sounds like your dad is still in pretty good shape, and plenty people here walking in their 80s. The two of you could continue doing a week a year along the Frances until you get to O'Cebreiro, where the two of you started in 2023..
You've done the (whole?) Frances, so you can probably appreciate that the CF seems to unfold like chapters in an epic book, making it particularly rewarding to start at the beginning and absorb the unfolding experience. Also it'd be an incentive for your father to keep in shape!

 

[Peregrino27]

Thanks for all your suggestions and advise! Looks like we are going to walk the French section in the end. Ticked a lot of boxes and less concern about the weather and ups and downs of the terrain.

 

[JerryStroebele]

Plan on spending a couple of hours in the Knights Templar castle (and its' museum) in Ponferrada. Buen Camino