My Invierno September 2018

[Joe McDonald]

Twenty nine days after leaving Alicante and following the amazing Camino del Sureste I find myself in Ponferrada- the starting point of the Invierno. I’ve been really looking after what I’d read about it. The day and a half I spent on the French Camino was a bit of a shock to the system after so long in solitude!
I left my hostel near the Castillo, armed only with Osman and Piligrina2000’s 2018 guide (many thanks btw), and made my way down along the river to pick up the camino arrow. I was quickly reassured by them and the whole stage to Puente de Domingo Florez was equally really well waymarked. Three reasonably tough climbs over this planned stage exist and the second up to Castillo de Cornatel is particularly challenging but what it returns is amazing. This I have to say is one of the best stages I’ve ever had on all my Caminos. If this is a flavour of what’s to come then it’s gping to be sensational. Bring on tomorrow!

 

[KinkyOne]

Glad you liked it

Ultreia!

 

[alaskadiver]

Looking forward to reading more! Thanks.

 

[VNwalking]

Next year, next year....
So I am looking forward to hearing how it goes for you Joe, whether it be en route or after the fact. Continued buen camino to you!

 

[Joe McDonald]

I stayed Hostel La Torre in Puente de Domingo Florez. Rooms are 18euros sharing bathroom and 25euros with en suite. You have to walk a little out of town but it’s very friendly. The owner/manager gave me a hard copy of the Invierno Guide for free. I was so impressed. If you stay there the easiest way to join the camino is to take the road immediately left of the Hostal. It takes you straight onto the camino and saves almost 1km.
The route once you get out is fantastic. High along the river and lake. When I got to O Barco I stopped for a break. A lot bigger than l had imagined. Leaving my cafe I used Osman to guide me out and it took me over the river and along a track which I think was camino naturale. No yellow arrows for nearly 10km but it was a beautiful alternate. It afforded much more shade and a lot quieter away from the roads. It’s a little longer but seems to me much better if you don’t mind steering yourself and the odd climb. Arrived in A Rua and stayed in Hostal Niza. Basic but friendly. Two wonderful days on this fabulous camino so far!

 

[Mark Francis Auchincloss]

It sure is beautiful I loved every moment from my first step to the last one! Highlights :Las Medulas, the views along the river Sil, the amazing gastronomy including delicious godello & mencia wines, bear poo near Quiroga, the abandoned villages like near Pobra do Brollon, nice people, nice towns /villages like O Barco, A Rua. Monforte de Lemos, Chantada, Rodeiro & Lalin, the vines in Ribeira Sacra around Belesar/ River Miño canyon, Faro hill...the peace & quiet & the wildlife..of course the walking challenges like the 42km stage from Quiroga to Monforte climbing over so many hills !! I loved Lalin which doesn't have an Old Town but has so many great bars serving fantastic food! I haven't said anything about heritage : churches, cruces,horreos, monasteries, chapels etc

 

[MikeJS]

I stayed Hostel La Torre in Puente de Domingo Florez. Rooms are 18euros sharing bathroom and 25euros with en suite. You have to walk a little out of town but it’s very friendly. The owner/manager gave me a hard copy of the Invierno Guide for free. I was so impressed. If you stay there the easiest way to join the camino is to take the road immediately left of the Hostal. It takes you straight onto the camino and saves almost 1km.
The route once you get out is fantastic. High along the river and lake. When I got to O Barco I stopped for a break. A lot bigger than l had imagined. Leaving my cafe I used Osman to guide me out and it took me over the river and along a track which I think was camino naturale. No yellow arrows for nearly 10km but it was a beautiful alternate. It afforded much more shade and a lot quieter away from the roads. It’s a little longer but seems to me much better if you don’t mind steering yourself and the odd climb. Arrived in A Rua and stayed in Hostal Niza. Basic but friendly. Two wonderful days on this fabulous camino so far!

Hostel La Torre was only 10 euros last year!

 

[Joe McDonald]

I was happy to pay the 25euros. They were so helpful and pleasant. Good food there in the comerdor!

 

[Joe McDonald]

Left A Rua around 7 45am and found myself after a short while enjoying wonderful views looking down on Rio Sil. There was not a cloud in the sky and not a breeze. I realised how privileged I was to be here enjoying such a spectacular experience. I stopped after about 15km where there is an information board ( you know you are in Galicia!) for a little on board nourishment. A seat and table would have been nice but that would have been heaven! This was another great section on the Invierno that just continues to amaze. It’s a long walk into Quiorga as most of its life is on the far end of town. I checked into Hostal Quiper. Found it excellent. 17 euros for a single room. Planning to hit Monforte de Lemos tomorrow. Can’t wait even though I know it’s a tough shift but no pain no gain!

 

[Joe McDonald]

Btw I did come across 3 water fountains as the on-line guide suggested!

 

[Joe McDonald]

Thanks so much MydestinationGalicia for your comprehensive account of your experience and pleasures. I’m very much on the same wavelength. Really looking forward to what clearly lies ahead. Really appreciate your time taken to describe this wonderful camino. Mucho gracias

 

[Joe McDonald]

Left Quiorga at 7 20pm ( with head torch on!) and was relieved it was a little overcast as the first 9km is a climb! Once you get off the main road you start climbing continually. The views are not as good as the previous days as your in pine forests. It took me nearly two hours to reach the top. I enjoyed the challenge and a sense of achievement! Another climb awaits you before arriving on Pobra do Brollon. I did the 22km in one go and enjoyed my tortilla! The remaining 12km or so to Monforte is very pleasant. Nothing major to contend with, although I feel a few of the tracks close to Monforte could be very wet in Spring. There has been no rain here for a while and parts had water flowing that needed a little care.
Overall another wonderful day on the Camino Invierno. Stayed in Hostal Duquesne (18euros). Lady very nice

 

[KinkyOne]

Left Quiorga at 7 20pm ( with head torch on!) and was relieved it was a little overcast as the first 9km is a climb! Once you get off the main road you start climbing continually. The views are not as good as the previous days as your in pine forests. It took me nearly two hours to reach the top. I enjoyed the challenge and a sense of achievement! Another climb awaits you before arriving on Pobra do Brollon. I did the 22km in one go and enjoyed my tortilla! The remaining 12km or so to Monforte is very pleasant. Nothing major to contend with, although I feel a few of the tracks close to Monforte could be very wet in Spring. There has been no rain here for a while and parts had water flowing that needed a little care.
Overall another wonderful day on the Camino Invierno. Stayed in Hostal Duquesne (18euros). Lady very nice

I think there's a typo regarding starting time

 

[peregrina2000]

I think there's a typo regarding starting time

Hey, K1,
I remember that we used to put the Quiroga to Monforte stage at 42, as @MyDestinationGalicia suggests, but we eventually decided that it was only 36. In fact, I think it was you who convinced me I was way off! That's a HUGE difference, and I don't know where the discrepancy comes from, do you?

 

[KinkyOne]

Hey, K1,
I remember that we used to put the Quiroga to Monforte stage at 42, as @MyDestinationGalicia suggests, but we eventually decided that it was only 36. In fact, I think it was you who convinced me I was way off! That's a HUGE difference, and I don't know where the discrepancy comes from, do you?

I think 42km was my bad measured by Endomondo which I only later discovered isn't really accurate. Sometimes it is but the discrepancy to Wikiloc is usually between 10-15%. So I think it could be more like 36km

 

[Joe McDonald]

Quiorga to Monforte for me clocked 36km. I have found P2000 all you’re distances on your guide extremely accurate.
Today for me from Monforte to Chantada had a fair amount of road, most of which was quiet and small country lanes. The first 10 km were a gradual climb and the second 10km steeper. Pleasant enough roads and paths.
Make sure you bring provisions as there is nothing along the way!
It’s the last 10km that has the jewel in the crown for this section. The descent into Belesar is both steep and breathtaking. Looking down at the Rio Mino and the terraced vines on the opposite banks of this amazing valley is special. It is worth the pain in going down and then up from this valley. I was blessed with wonderful weather to allow me to fully appreciate this Ribiero cradle. Just another diamond that this camino Invierno keeps presenting.
Checked into Hostal Yoel (18euros for single room).
Bar Lucus excellent for both food and service.

 

[MikeJS]

I clocked Quiorga to MdL as 35 kms last year...

 

[alaskadiver]

Quiorga to Monforte for me clocked 36km. I have found P2000 all you’re distances on your guide extremely accurate.
Today for me from Monforte to Chantada had a fair amount of road, most of which was quiet and small country lanes. The first 10 km were a gradual climb and the second 10km steeper. Pleasant enough roads and paths.
Make sure you bring provisions as there is nothing along the way!
It’s the last 10km that has the jewel in the crown for this section. The descent into Belesar is both steep and breathtaking. Looking down at the Rio Mino and the terraced vines on the opposite banks of this amazing valley is special. It is worth the pain in going down and then up from this valley. I was blessed with wonderful weather to allow me to fully appreciate this Ribiero cradle. Just another diamond that this camino Invierno keeps presenting.
Checked into Hostal Yoel (18euros for single room).
Bar Lucus excellent for both food and service.

This is one of the stages that I plan to split into two. I can't walk 36km in one day

 

[peregrina2000]

This is one of the stages that I plan to split into two. I can't walk 36km in one day

I’m pretty sure you’ve seen this, alaskadiver, but the nice little pensión in Pobra de Brollón, As Viñas, has closed. Gronze lists two places in Salcedo, 3.6 km off route. I am guessing, but do not know for sure, that they will pick you up.

 

[alaskadiver]

I’m pretty sure you’ve seen this, alaskadiver, but the nice little pensión in Pobra de Brollón, As Viñas, has closed. Gronze lists two places in Salcedo, 3.6 km off route. I am guessing, but do not know for sure, that they will pick you up.

Yes already found a place in Labrada that will pick us up. Same thing in Villariño.

 

[Joe McDonald]

Today’s walk for me from Chantada to Rodeiro was basically a climb for the first half up to Monte Faro and then a steady descent down to Rodeiro. The climb does seem to go on with the odd sharp push here and there. At the top you are presented with great views and most of the way down but the wind turbines I found distracting. It was another different day on this great camino. Stayed in Hostal Carpinteiras (22euros single). Clean but at the top of a hill.

 

[Joe McDonald]

The walk from Rodeiro to Lalin was not too long (21km) along mainly country lanes and farm track. A thunder and lightning storm was threatening but thankfully it didn’t develop as I left Rodeiro. There were no real climbs for the first time on this camino. Stayed in Hotel El Palacio. 32euros for room, meal and breakfast.

 

[KinkyOne]

Now you only have to go through Parque Fluvial and behind the poligono industrial and after A Laxe you'll be on already known path
Well done, you were pretty fast!

 

[Joe McDonald]

Thanks K1. Left Lalin and walked to Ponte Ulla (35km). It was mainly down hill and a very pleasant route. Stopped in Silleda (15km) for a break. Checked into Hostal Churrasco (15euros single room). Very clean. Had stayed there last year when doing the Sanabres. Santiago in the morning (20km). The Invierno has been a wonderful experience and would highly recommend it.

 

[peregrina2000]

Welcome to the invierno Alumni club! We are quite the select group, and are always delighted to get new members. I hope to be back for Invierno number 3 or 4, can’t really remember which, in 2019. It is a marvelous camino, no doubt about it. Buen camino, Laurie

 

[Stacyv]

Does anyone know the distance from St Jean to Santiago if you take the Camino Invierno route? I’m planning to take this route in 2029 to avoid the Sarria crowds. Plus it sounds amazing!

 

[omicko]

Does anyone know the distance from St Jean to Santiago if you take the Camino Invierno route? I’m planning to take this route in 2029 to avoid the Sarria crowds. Plus it sounds amazing!

Well Stacy, you do like to plan well ahead. Good luck,Mike.

 

[KinkyOne]

Does anyone know the distance from St Jean to Santiago if you take the Camino Invierno route? I’m planning to take this route in 2029 to avoid the Sarria crowds. Plus it sounds amazing!

Invierno from Ponferrada to Santiago is approx.250km long. You can do the math SJPdP - Ponferrada yourself here: https://www.gronze.com/camino-frances

 

[Stacyv]

Well Stacy, you do like to plan well ahead. Good luck,Mike.

I’m a bit of an over planner! This will be my third Camino...can’t imagine not having one planned

 

[Albertagirl]

Does anyone know the distance from St Jean to Santiago if you take the Camino Invierno route? I’m planning to take this route in 2029

I think that the year which you mentioned in this posting is why Mike commented on your advance planning. If you are planning on walking the Invierno in the autumn of 2019 you may meet me on this route.

 

[Stacyv]

I think that the year which you mentioned in this posting is why Mike commented on your advance planning. If you are planning on walking the Invierno in the autumn of 2019 you may meet me on this route.

2020.....