LIVE from the Camino My Camino started Sept 8, 2021

[Happyinharrogate]

not sure if this where I should post but here goes. Just finished day 1 of my Camino. SJPDP to Roscenvalles. As expected was tough, but no tougher than expected. The first bit particularly up to Orisonne is very hard ( for me). More manageable after that. Very warm today so the heat was a killer lost so much body fluid! I’m 68 reasonably fit bit I did it and others can too. Now in Roscenvalles staying at Roscenvalles hotel which is very very nice! Not the choice for many pilgrims but so appreciated tonight.
Were places to get refreshments en route but got to the last food truck stop at 12.30 and he was closing up for the day so don’t count on it in the afternoon.
In SJpDP last night getting into a restaurant for an 8pm dinner was not so easy had to queue which surprised me. Must be difficult when very busy. Also everything closed down pretty early (9 onwards).

 

[mspath]

Glad to read that you have arrived at Roncesvalles despite the heat. Tomorrow do carry water from Burguete on. There are few stops with water or a bar/cafe before Zubiri.

Thanks for your update. Please do continue to post when you can. Current conditions on the CF are very much needed now.

Stay safe and Buen camino!

 

[David with new Kit!]

After Zuburi accommodation stress should reduce as people spread their options. Zuburi always seems to be a pinch point

 

[kay lee]

You did the first day through the Pyrennes in one day. I did too. Hard but doable. Yes, the hotel is a nice reward. For me, early in April, walking through the rain and snow through the mountains, it was wonderful to be in a beautiful, clean private room with hissing heating pipes on the walls of the room.

 

[Lhollo]

Very glad to hear you got on ok with the 'over the top' section out from SJPdP! I was wondering how you were doing yesterday. I imagine the heat did make a big difference (I had fog).

I'll look forward to your updates from here. Hope today's jaunt down to Zubiri (or should that be up and down?) has been a lovely one.

 

[arobins]

not sure if this where I should post but here goes. Just finished day 1 of my Camino. SJPDP to Roscenvalles. As expected was tough, but no tougher than expected. The first bit particularly up to Orisonne is very hard ( for me). More manageable after that. Very warm today so the heat was a killer lost so much body fluid! I’m 68 reasonably fit bit I did it and others can too. Now in Roscenvalles staying at Roscenvalles hotel which is very very nice! Not the choice for many pilgrims but so appreciated tonight.
Were places to get refreshments en route but got to the last food truck stop at 12.30 and he was closing up for the day so don’t count on it in the afternoon.
In SJpDP last night getting into a restaurant for an 8pm dinner was not so easy had to queue which surprised me. Must be difficult when very busy. Also everything closed down pretty early (9 onwards).

Yes, please continue posting as details are important to us following in the near future. Dining in SJPP tip is extremely helpful as I will be arriving on Sept 20 late afternoon. I too will be staying in same hotel so your comment is very helpful. Buen Camino!

 

[kared]

not sure if this where I should post but here goes. Just finished day 1 of my Camino. SJPDP to Roscenvalles. As expected was tough, but no tougher than expected. The first bit particularly up to Orisonne is very hard ( for me). More manageable after that. Very warm today so the heat was a killer lost so much body fluid! I’m 68 reasonably fit bit I did it and others can too. Now in Roscenvalles staying at Roscenvalles hotel which is very very nice! Not the choice for many pilgrims but so appreciated tonight.
Were places to get refreshments en route but got to the last food truck stop at 12.30 and he was closing up for the day so don’t count on it in the afternoon.
In SJpDP last night getting into a restaurant for an 8pm dinner was not so easy had to queue which surprised me. Must be difficult when very busy. Also everything closed down pretty early (9 onwards).

Well done you. I’m new to this app too. I’m very grateful to hear how you managed day one. My husband and I will begin from the same place as you but we start mid October We are also booked into the same hotel as you.
Are you a regular Walker and did you do practice walks before you started. I shall be interested to see how you get on tomorrow. Is that to Zubiri? I booked pension Amets there. Are you endevering to do the whole Camino in one go? Have a good rest. I look forward to hearing tomorrow’s review.
Buen Camino

 

[tonya w]

not sure if this where I should post but here goes. Just finished day 1 of my Camino. SJPDP to Roscenvalles. As expected was tough, but no tougher than expected. The first bit particularly up to Orisonne is very hard ( for me). More manageable after that. Very warm today so the heat was a killer lost so much body fluid! I’m 68 reasonably fit bit I did it and others can too. Now in Roscenvalles staying at Roscenvalles hotel which is very very nice! Not the choice for many pilgrims but so appreciated tonight.
Were places to get refreshments en route but got to the last food truck stop at 12.30 and he was closing up for the day so don’t count on it in the afternoon.
In SJpDP last night getting into a restaurant for an 8pm dinner was not so easy had to queue which surprised me. Must be difficult when very busy. Also everything closed down pretty early (9 onwards).

I am soon to be on your heels, but I will not catch you; departing US 9/23. I also planned my trip for last year. Looking forward to following your adventure. Please let me know if you change threads or platforms. Cheers, 60 year old in reasonably good shape.

 

[Happyinharrogate]

Well done you. I’m new to this app too. I’m very grateful to hear how you managed day one. My husband and I will begin from the same place as you but we start mid October We are also booked into the same hotel as you.
Are you a regular Walker and did you do practice walks before you started. I shall be interested to see how you get on tomorrow. Is that to Zubiri? I booked pension Amets there. Are you endevering to do the whole Camino in one go? Have a good rest. I look forward to hearing tomorrow’s review.
Buen Camino

Hi Kared. So yes my second day was here to Zubiri. It’s a small place with few facilities and limited meal options. I was directed to a restaurant 500 metre out of town which wasn’t very special but others I spoke to found a dinner offered by an Albergue in the town which they said was good but I do not have the name. Maybe have a walk around ( doesn’t take long) and see if you can see places offering pilgrim meals. Yes I do walk regularly. I regularly walk 5 miles each day and try and walk longer distances once per week/ pet fury night. I have done other long walks. It does help if you get some walking training completed especially as that first day is challenging walking up the hills. But it seems everyone does make it even if they choose to go slowly. I took 8 hours for the first day which seems around average, however many people do choose to split that first day into 2 stages as it can be challenging. If you’re unsure on your fitness then this might be a good plan and then your walking fitness will improve as you go along

 

[Happyinharrogate]

So Day 2. Roncesvalles to Zubiri. After yesterday’s spectacular walk today is a bit of a let down. You’re walking for much of it in wooded areas with no views. Upside was it was a much easier day, couple of small climbs and the weather was better for walking. Enjoyed staying in Roncesvalles hotel last night and excellent 3 course meal including a bottle of wine for €19. Few pensions in Zubiri with full signs but I had pre booked but I’m sure there will be spaces somewhere for travelkers

Hi Kared. So yes my second day was here to Zubiri. It’s a small place with few facilities and limited meal options. I was directed to a restaurant 500 metre out of town which wasn’t very special but others I spoke to found a dinner offered by an Albergue in the town which they said was good but I do not have the name. Maybe have a walk around ( doesn’t take long) and see if you can see places offering pilgrim meals. Yes I do walk regularly. I regularly walk 5 miles each day and try and walk longer distances once per week/ pet fury night. I have done other long walks. It does help if you get some walking training completed especially as that first day is challenging walking up the hills. But it seems everyone does make it even if they choose to go slowly. I took 8 hours for the first day which seems around average, however many people do choose to split that first day into 2 stages as it can be challenging. If you’re unsure on your fitness then this might be a good plan and then your walking fitness will improve as you go along

also just to mention I am staying at Pension Amets. It’s very nice, around 6 private rooms close to everything and nicely decorated, comfy clean beds

 

[kared]

I am soon to be on your heels, but I will not catch you; departing US 9/23. I also planned my trip for last year. Looking forward to following your adventure. Please let me know if you change threads or platforms. Cheers, 60 year old in reasonably good shape.

 

[kared]

So Day 2. Roncesvalles to Zubiri. After yesterday’s spectacular walk today is a bit of a let down. You’re walking for much of it in wooded areas with no views. Upside was it was a much easier day, couple of small climbs and the weather was better for walking. Enjoyed staying in Roncesvalles hotel last night and excellent 3 course meal including a bottle of wine for €19. Few pensions in Zubiri with full signs but I had pre booked but I’m sure there will be spaces somewhere for travelkers

also just to mention I am staying at Pension Amets. It’s very nice, around 6 private rooms close to everything and nicely decorated, comfy clean beds

You have been making good time. Are there many people along the way and how are your feet? We have increased our training walks in length (some with back packs which is funny as people give as odd looks) I also found wearing and additional thin sock under my regular sock feels much more comfortable.
I am walking a marathon in London for Cancer research on 25th September which is at night. It’s called the Shine walk. After that we have 2 weeks to go so will continue training but back down to 19 miles twice a week.
I hope day 3 is good for you. Im thinking the terrain is easier than day one. Are you drinking the water from the fountains on route or are you buying along the way?
Im wondering if I should by a bottle with a charcoal filter. (Straw).
I hope the weather is good for you today and looking forward to hearing how day 3 went.
buen Camino.

 

[kared]

You have been making good time. Are there many people along the way and how are your feet? We have increased our training walks in length (some with back packs which is funny as people give as odd looks) I also found wearing and additional thin sock under my regular sock feels much more comfortable.
I am walking a marathon in London for Cancer research on 25th September which is at night. It’s called the Shine walk. After that we have 2 weeks to go so will continue training but back down to 19 miles twice a week.
I hope day 3 is good for you. Im thinking the terrain is easier than day one. Are you drinking the water from the fountains on route or are you buying along the way?
Im wondering if I should by a bottle with a charcoal filter. (Straw).
I hope the weather is good for you today and looking forward to hearing how day 3 went.
buen Camino.

Actually back down to 10 miles per week not 19 (typo).
day 2 sounded a bit boring after what must have been spectacular views on day 1. I’m hoping I take in the views but fear the hard work of walking uphill for most of the day will detract.
have you walked a Camino before or is this your first one?
Buen Camino. Kared.

 

[Former member 49149]

You have been making good time. Are there many people along the way and how are your feet? We have increased our training walks in length (some with back packs which is funny as people give as odd looks) I also found wearing and additional thin sock under my regular sock feels much more comfortable.
I am walking a marathon in London for Cancer research on 25th September which is at night. It’s called the Shine walk. After that we have 2 weeks to go so will continue training but back down to 19 miles twice a week.
I hope day 3 is good for you. Im thinking the terrain is easier than day one. Are you drinking the water from the fountains on route or are you buying along the way?
Im wondering if I should by a bottle with a charcoal filter. (Straw).
I hope the weather is good for you today and looking forward to hearing how day 3 went.
buen Camino.

Before I continue on this thread, I ordered sheepswool from Australia or New Zealand - not sure now, but from where I live they are next door neighbours! Miraculous, and also smartwool socks of one brand or another. On my next short effort, maybe coming soon, I will be wearing sandals, so do not expect to need either of above. The second you notice a hotspot, stop. Deal with it.

 

[Former member 49149]

So Day 2. Roncesvalles to Zubiri. After yesterday’s spectacular walk today is a bit of a let down. You’re walking for much of it in wooded areas with no views. Upside was it was a much easier day, couple of small climbs and the weather was better for walking. Enjoyed staying in Roncesvalles hotel last night and excellent 3 course meal including a bottle of wine for €19. Few pensions in Zubiri with full signs but I had pre booked but I’m sure there will be spaces somewhere for travelkers

also just to mention I am staying at Pension Amets. It’s very nice, around 6 private rooms close to everything and nicely decorated, comfy clean beds

I did not begin in France, I began in Spain. Forgive me if I say that boring never entered my mind. Challenge did. Each step was part of the "will I manage this?"
I reached Santiago and then again, from Oporto, and again from Ferrol, and Oviedo from Leon... Perhaps soon, a day or two on the Baztan...
I hope I will remember to check in on your Camino. It is always a joy to follow others, with ups and downs, joys and ... tribulations. I wish you the best of Caminos!

 

[Peregrinopaul]

not sure if this where I should post but here goes. Just finished day 1 of my Camino. SJPDP to Roscenvalles. As expected was tough, but no tougher than expected.

Hi, HinH! Delighted to find that you’re on your way. I will be following. The Yorkshire Dales obviously prepared you well.

 

[Lhollo]

Hi Kared. So yes my second day was here to Zubiri. It’s a small place with few facilities and limited meal options. I was directed to a restaurant 500 metre out of town which wasn’t very special but others I spoke to found a dinner offered by an Albergue in the town which they said was good but I do not have the name. Maybe have a walk around ( doesn’t take long) and see if you can see places offering pilgrim meals. Yes I do walk regularly. I regularly walk 5 miles each day and try and walk longer distances once per week/ pet fury night. I have done other long walks. It does help if you get some walking training completed especially as that first day is challenging walking up the hills. But it seems everyone does make it even if they choose to go slowly. I took 8 hours for the first day which seems around average, however many people do choose to split that first day into 2 stages as it can be challenging. If you’re unsure on your fitness then this might be a good plan and then your walking fitness will improve as you go along

I think the albergue you were trying to find for dinner might be El Palo Avellano (The Hazel Stick). It’s on the main road, keeping the church on your right, a little further down. We stayed there a few weeks ago, as did many pilgrims we chatted with. An excellent pilgrim dinner, for which I believe it has a reputation. Also a really lovely place.

 

[Lhollo]

So Day 2. Roncesvalles to Zubiri. After yesterday’s spectacular walk today is a bit of a let down. You’re walking for much of it in wooded areas with no views. Upside was it was a much easier day, couple of small climbs and the weather was better for walking. Enjoyed staying in Roncesvalles hotel last night and excellent 3 course meal including a bottle of wine for €19. Few pensions in Zubiri with full signs but I had pre booked but I’m sure there will be spaces somewhere for travelkers

also just to mention I am staying at Pension Amets. It’s very nice, around 6 private rooms close to everything and nicely decorated, comfy clean beds

Glad to hear it’s all going well, albeit with some dinner-navigation issues (I found this tricky too, particularly because the Spanish ‘Cena’ often starts at 8pm so earlier meals are harder to find). In some ways, you are having an opposite experience to my own thus far: I had no views because of fog on day one (‘but it’s so atmospheric!’) then spent the day to Zubiri bouncing along because of the views and woodlands ‘a bit like the Cairngorms’!

I hope you’re enjoying the Pamplona stretch, and the city itself. (Will you visit the Hemingway statue that props up the bar in the Cafe Iruña, I wonder?).

 

[DoughnutANZ]

Before I continue on this thread, I ordered sheepswool from Australia or New Zealand - not sure now, but from where I live they are next door neighbours! Miraculous, and also smartwool socks of one brand or another. On my next short effort, maybe coming soon, I will be wearing sandals, so do not expect to need either of above. The second you notice a hotspot, stop. Deal with it.

Don't they have sheep in Ireland?

 

[Happyinharrogate]

You have been making good time. Are there many people along the way and how are your feet? We have increased our training walks in length (some with back packs which is funny as people give as odd looks) I also found wearing and additional thin sock under my regular sock feels much more comfortable.
I am walking a marathon in London for Cancer research on 25th September which is at night. It’s called the Shine walk. After that we have 2 weeks to go so will continue training but back down to 19 miles twice a week.
I hope day 3 is good for you. Im thinking the terrain is easier than day one. Are you drinking the water from the fountains on route or are you buying along the way?
Im wondering if I should by a bottle with a charcoal filter. (Straw).
I hope the weather is good for you today and looking forward to hearing how day 3 went.
buen Camino.

Hi yes after day 1 last 2 days have both been easier. Really enjoyed today Zubiri to Pamplona. 13.5 miles, not too hilly and much more to see. Zubiri was such a thing place with limited food options and now in Pamplona which is great and surprisingly Met up with lots of my fellow walkers who I didn’t expect to bump into. Still so many Irish I’m meeting. Enjoying everyone’s stories.
I’m buying bottled water snd tipping up my water pack though lots of people too up from fountains so you should be absolutely fine doing that also.
sounds like your training on track

 

[Glenshiro]

First of all, huge congratulations in walking SJpdp - Roncesvalles in one day - I did it at ages 64 & 65 - it's basically the equivalent of climbing Ben Nevis, which lots of people do every summer, but not necessarily at the age of 68!

Secondly, enjoy Pamplona ( a serious party town) and gird your loins for the next stage. (It gets a lot easier after Logroño.)

Seriously jealous! Enjoy.

 

[naplesdon]

I think Palo Avelino only serves their guests?

 

[Happyinharrogate]

Ps to all. If anyone knows how to edit my thread title please advise as I’m now posting updates on past Day 1, or is the etiquette I start a new thread? Not sure what works best

 

[Tony Bobcat]

not sure if this where I should post but here goes. Just finished day 1 of my Camino. SJPDP to Roscenvalles. As expected was tough, but no tougher than expected. The first bit particularly up to Orisonne is very hard ( for me). More manageable after that. Very warm today so the heat was a killer lost so much body fluid! I’m 68 reasonably fit bit I did it and others can too. Now in Roscenvalles staying at Roscenvalles hotel which is very very nice! Not the choice for many pilgrims but so appreciated tonight.
Were places to get refreshments en route but got to the last food truck stop at 12.30 and he was closing up for the day so don’t count on it in the afternoon.
In SJpDP last night getting into a restaurant for an 8pm dinner was not so easy had to queue which surprised me. Must be difficult when very busy. Also everything closed down pretty early (9 onwards).

Thanks for your update, looking forward for your next. Buen Camino.

 

[Lhollo]

I think Palo Avelino only serves their guests?

I thought that too, but presumably there is an albergue that serves others as well. You reserve tables at reception so I thought… I was probably wrong. I know it has a reputation for food. I’ll go away now

 

[Lhollo]

Ps to all. If anyone knows how to edit my thread title please advise as I’m now posting updates on past Day 1, or is the etiquette I start a new thread? Not sure what works best

Doesn’t it work for you if you go to ‘Edit’ at the bottom of your first post, then change the title in the title box? That’s all I did. Maybe the trick is going to your first post to do it.

 

[keith duke scott]

not sure if this where I should post but here goes. Just finished day 1 of my Camino. SJPDP to Roscenvalles. As expected was tough, but no tougher than expected. The first bit particularly up to Orisonne is very hard ( for me). More manageable after that. Very warm today so the heat was a killer lost so much body fluid! I’m 68 reasonably fit bit I did it and others can too. Now in Roscenvalles staying at Roscenvalles hotel which is very very nice! Not the choice for many pilgrims but so appreciated tonight.
Were places to get refreshments en route but got to the last food truck stop at 12.30 and he was closing up for the day so don’t count on it in the afternoon.
In SJpDP last night getting into a restaurant for an 8pm dinner was not so easy had to queue which surprised me. Must be difficult when very busy. Also everything closed down pretty early (9 onwards).

Well done. Appreciate the update. Are you traveling solo?

 

[Fuertebrazos]

not sure if this where I should post but here goes. Just finished day 1 of my Camino. SJPDP to Roscenvalles. As expected was tough, but no tougher than expected. The first bit particularly up to Orisonne is very hard ( for me). More manageable after that. Very warm today so the heat was a killer lost so much body fluid! I’m 68 reasonably fit bit I did it and others can too. Now in Roscenvalles staying at Roscenvalles hotel which is very very nice! Not the choice for many pilgrims but so appreciated tonight.
Were places to get refreshments en route but got to the last food truck stop at 12.30 and he was closing up for the day so don’t count on it in the afternoon.
In SJpDP last night getting into a restaurant for an 8pm dinner was not so easy had to queue which surprised me. Must be difficult when very busy. Also everything closed down pretty early (9 onwards).

I will be doing exactly what you have done, but one week from now, so I am pleased to get such good information. Did you need the French pass with the barcode to get into the restaurant? I don't have one, just my CDC card, and at this point I think it's probably too late to get one, at least from the US.

 

[Happyinharrogate]

I will be doing exactly what you have done, but one week from now, so I am pleased to get such good information. Did you need the French pass with the barcode to get into the restaurant? I don't have one, just my CDC card, and at this point I think it's probably too late to get one, at least from the US.

Good luck with it. In St Jean every restaurant is very keen on seeing proof of vaccine. From uk we use our Uk NHS app that has this information and they accept it. Not sure what they need for US citizens?

 

[Happyinharrogate]

Well done. Appreciate the update. Are you traveling solo?

Hi Keith. Yes I am though whenever you choose you can be with people. After now 4 days of walking you really do get to know so many people anyone if which are happy to have you as a waking companion. I tend to move around groups and also spend time on my own at times.

 

[Happyinharrogate]

Doesn’t it work for you if you go to ‘Edit’ at the bottom of your first post, then change the title in the title box? That’s all I did. Maybe the trick is going to your first post to do it.

Thanks it did

 

[Happyinharrogate]

Day 4 of my Camino. Pamplona to Puente La Reina. Really loved the walk today, scenery was lovely and temperature was warm but pleasant. Today was the day when we got to see Alton del Perdon the iron pilgrim figures on the hill above Pamplona. The only day I didn’t really enjoy the walk so far was the Roscenvalles Zubiri stage.
lots of places to stop for refreshments today and have found I don’t need to Take things with me and I’m snacking and lunching at places enroute. Weather has been great, dry and not too hot. Staying at the Albergue Jacku in Puente Le Reina. Nice enough and they have a bar and restaurant where they serve dinner and breakfast. The town whilst fairly sizeable was pretty quiet.

 

[Anamiri]

I stayed there in 2016 in a heatwave, and got a tiny airconditioned room. It was bliss in the extreme heat.

 

[kared]

Hi yes after day 1 last 2 days have both been easier. Really enjoyed today Zubiri to Pamplona. 13.5 miles, not too hilly and much more to see. Zubiri was such a thing place with limited food options and now in Pamplona which is great and surprisingly Met up with lots of my fellow walkers who I didn’t expect to bump into. Still so many Irish I’m meeting. Enjoying everyone’s stories.
I’m buying bottled water snd tipping up my water pack though lots of people too up from fountains so you should be absolutely fine doing that also.
sounds like your training on track

Sounds like you’re enjoying the best of times. The Irish are always such good company too although those I know (my very good friends) like a drink or two and always one for the road. Don’t be led astray you have and early start I’m sure
Keep going I’m loving following your trip.

 

[MaryLP]

You did the first day through the Pyrennes in one day. I did too. Hard but doable. Yes, the hotel is a nice reward. For me, early in April, walking through the rain and snow through the mountains, it was wonderful to be in a beautiful, clean private room with hissing heating pipes on the walls of the room.

Yes. At 69 and after a nine hour walk from SJPP I really appreciated my own room. There was a blood moon that night. I watched it rise over the mountain and flood the courtyard with light. So grateful and then onwards.

 

[maggiemelb]

So Day 2. Roncesvalles to Zubiri. After yesterday’s spectacular walk today is a bit of a let down. You’re walking for much of it in wooded areas with no views. Upside was it was a much easier day, couple of small climbs and the weather was better for walking. Enjoyed staying in Roncesvalles hotel last night and excellent 3 course meal including a bottle of wine for €19. Few pensions in Zubiri with full signs but I had pre booked but I’m sure there will be spaces somewhere for travelkers

also just to mention I am staying at Pension Amets. It’s very nice, around 6 private rooms close to everything and nicely decorated, comfy clean beds

Really enjoying your updates, from lockdown in Australia.
Itching to be back on the trail.
Thankyou

 

[keith duke scott]

Hi Keith. Yes I am though whenever you choose you can be with people. After now 4 days of walking you really do get to know so many people anyone if which are happy to have you as a waking companion. I tend to move around groups and also spend time on my own at times.

Sounds like a perfect mix. Enjoy your camino appreciate your posts very much.

 

[Happyinharrogate]

Day 5 Peunte de la Reina to Estella. Book says 13.5 miles but all my apps tracked it at 15! Another great day of sweeping views lots to take in. A really warm one today and can understand why many people set off very early to finish before mid afternoon heat kicks in. Puente de la Reina a little sleepy but as so was i so didn’t matter. Now in Estella which is sizeable town and lots of eating/drinking options. Staying at the Alda Hostel which is clean and modern and bathed a single room for €46.
Meeting people who aren’t booking ahead and whilst some places are full they are getting in somewhere. I’m still booking ahead.
A few general reflections
- this stage of the Camino so far hasn’t disappointed ( apart from day 2)
- it’s been warmer and dryer than expected
- in smaller places take what eating options are on offer as they appear as you can’t count on what else there will be or will be open
- like others I’m really surprised and disappointed how many peregrinos do not respect the environment and see so many discarded tissues after toilet breaks. It’s gross and hard to believe it happens.
Enjoying another nice evening in a square in Estrella enjoying a Sangria.

 

[Happyinharrogate]

One more update on general observations. It relates to my prior comment re finding food. So here in Estella have found it really hard to find a restaurant with a wide menu, everything seemed to be bars offering tapas and pizzas. I am craving a plated meat and vegetable dinner which seems to be hard to come by anywhere I’ve been. So as before if you see tone thing and it’s open go for it

 

[Lhollo]

I’m enjoying your updates, and vicariously reliving the way as you go. I found the same as you re food, although I was on a mission to find green veg more than cooked meat. Will you stop in Los Arcos tomorrow?

 

[Happyinharrogate]

I’m enjoying your updates, and vicariously reliving the way as you go. I found the same as you re food, although I was on a mission to find green veg more than cooked meat. Will you stop in Los Arcos tomorrow?

Yes I will. Haven’t seen a green veg since I left uk

 

[Lhollo]

Yes I will. Haven’t seen a green veg since I left uk

You probably already know/have things in mind but in case it helps, in Los Arcos, La Casa de la Abuela offers excellent home cooked pilgrim meals, at least to guests. There’s also a restaurant slightly out of the centre that locals flock to and which has a better variety of meals from about 7:30. The one in the centre is just/mostly pizza. We found it tricky there so I caved and went on Tripadvisor . Hope you enjoy the walk to there! Buen camino

 

[keith duke scott]

One more update on general observations. It relates to my prior comment re finding food. So here in Estella have found it really hard to find a restaurant with a wide menu, everything seemed to be bars offering tapas and pizzas. I am craving a plated meat and vegetable dinner which seems to be hard to come by anywhere I’ve been. So as before if you see tone thing and it’s open go for it

That selection would be very boring after awhile. Do they still serve hot tortia in the mornings for breakfast along the cafes? That's my go to with a hot Cafe and a thick slice of sour dough bread. I wonder if you just requested some meat that even if it's not listed on the menu they might be able to hook you up. Keep us posted as you search for some delicious carne buen camino

 

[Happyinharrogate]

Thanks for replies.
Day 6 Estella to Los Arcos. 14 miles. Nice walk again, nice scenery and included the wine fountain! People on the walk today commented that they were finding of difficult to find accommodation in Los Arcos, so glad I booked ahead. I’ve decided I will keep doing this. Here in Los Arcos similar food supply/availability issues, very few restaurants and the one we found had a line of people outside it at opening time and was oversubscribed. Stayed at hostel Suestxe which was nice.
been raining heavily this evening and expect more tomorrow.
I’m heading to Logrono tomorrow but everyone else I know are going just short of logrono

 

[Lhollo]

Enjoy your Logroño day I hope it’s a pleasant rain, if it continues.

 

[Happyinharrogate]

Day 7. Los Arcos to Logrono. Nice dinner in Los Arcos at restaurant recommended by Suetxe hotel. Nice hotel. Been a dull day but good walking weather. Nothing too strenuous on this leg but it is very long, and a number of my walking buddies stopped at Vanu which is 5 miles closer. Very tired tonight.
Logrono is a big modern looking city with a few old streets with cafes and bars which look quite nice. Found a couple of places doing menu of the day for €12
Logrono has a station which I’m taking advantage of tomorrow to skip a couple of legs and heading directly to Burgos. Weather a lot cooler tonight and had to wear a fleece for guest time. Forecast for more rain tomorrow

 

[Lhollo]

Well done on getting to the end of the long leg. (I found it a hard day toward the end). Will you have a rest day in Burgos? Hope the weather improves for you.

 

[Happyinharrogate]

Well done on getting to the end of the long leg. (I found it a hard day toward the end). Will you have a rest day in Burgos? Hope the weather improves for you.

I’m treating my train journey as a rest day will be walking again tomorrow. Have some tome to check put Burgos this afternoon

 

[Happyinharrogate]

Day 7. Los Arcos to Logrono. Nice dinner in Los Arcos at restaurant recommended by Suetxe hotel. Nice hotel. Been a dull day but good walking weather. Nothing too strenuous on this leg but it is very long, and a number of my walking buddies stopped at Vanu which is 5 miles closer. Very tired tonight.
Logrono is a big modern looking city with a few old streets with cafes and bars which look quite nice. Found a couple of places doing menu of the day for €12
Logrono has a station which I’m taking advantage of tomorrow to skip a couple of legs and heading directly to Burgos. Weather a lot cooler tonight and had to wear a fleece for guest time. Forecast for more rain tomorrow

Meant Viana not Vanu

 

[Happyinharrogate]

Day 8. Rest day and took train from Logrono to Burgos. It’s a 1 change journey taking 2.5 hours. Easy enough. Weather has cooled down and it seems to be getting cooler as I go west though of course autumn is moving in as well. In the evenings I’m now wearing fleeces. Preferred Burgos to Logrono.
Back to walking tomorrow on the trail and heading Hornillos de Camino.

 

[J Willhaus]

Seems you are staying mostly in private rooms but, if you have an opportunity to stay somewhere with a kitchen, you may want to look into what you can get at the stores for a change of pace. At Estella, for example, one of the fruterias (Moreno, I think) has the most delicious selection of olives. One of the grocery stores sold whole and half roasted chickens. We also eat a lot of tuna with white beans and basalmic reduction over the top when it is warm outside. I know my husband has eaten lomo several days in a row while walking the past couple of week (standard offering) and he was glad to eventually find something different.

 

[kared]

Day 8. Rest day and took train from Logrono to Burgos. It’s a 1 change journey taking 2.5 hours. Easy enough. Weather has cooled down and it seems to be getting cooler as I go west though of course autumn is moving in as well. In the evenings I’m now wearing fleeces. Preferred Burgos to Logrono.
Back to walking tomorrow on the trail and heading Hornillos de Camino.

Enjoy your rest day. We don’t start our first ever Camino until another 4 weeks and we’re only going as far as Logrono this time but have been reading your posts with interest.
I wonder, having done a week, if you have packed anything you haven’t actually needed or if you wished you’d packed differently. I feel I am preoccupied with what should or shouldn’t go in my pack. It feels a bit like skiing. You need as much for a weekend as you do for a week. In this case as much for 6 weeks as you do for one.
I seem to have booked pretty much the same hotels as you did to now so glad you were comfortable in all.
Did you get your passport stamped in SJPdP the day before you began that first climb into Roncesvalles? I think we need to make a really early start to give us a chance of making this day. While we can do 15 miles on the flat I realise the altitude will make this a whole different ball game.
I will be following the rest of your journey with interest as we will pick up from where we finish (hopefully Logrono) as some point next year all being well.
Have a great day of rest I hope the weather is kind to you. As ever Buen Comino

 

[Happyinharrogate]

Enjoy your rest day. We don’t start our first ever Camino until another 4 weeks and we’re only going as far as Logrono this time but have been reading your posts with interest.
I wonder, having done a week, if you have packed anything you haven’t actually needed or if you wished you’d packed differently. I feel I am preoccupied with what should or shouldn’t go in my pack. It feels a bit like skiing. You need as much for a weekend as you do for a week. In this case as much for 6 weeks as you do for one.
I seem to have booked pretty much the same hotels as you did to now so glad you were comfortable in all.
Did you get your passport stamped in SJPdP the day before you began that first climb into Roncesvalles? I think we need to make a really early start to give us a chance of making this day. While we can do 15 miles on the flat I realise the altitude will make this a whole different ball game.
I will be following the rest of your journey with interest as we will pick up from where we finish (hopefully Logrono) as some point next year all being well.
Have a great day of rest I hope the weather is kind to you. As ever Buen Comino

Hi Kared. So re packing first thing to say is I have definitely overpacked. I have far more stuff than others I meet, and I could have cut down on changes of t shirts and just accepted washing more regularly. I did start to think that some of the warmer clothes I’ve brought (merino wool top, down jacket) would be superfluous however the temperature is dropping as I move west and in next few days temps of 17/18 in the day are forecast. So could I have got away with much less probably not but doing it again I would try to reduce if possible.
Re the first day it is the toughest day for sure and took me 8 hours in total and that was at a pretty good pace so could be up to 9/10 hours if your fitness is not quite there for the start. Starting off 7.30/8 would he recommended.

 

[Happyinharrogate]

Seems you are staying mostly in private rooms but, if you have an opportunity to stay somewhere with a kitchen, you may want to look into what you can get at the stores for a change of pace. At Estella, for example, one of the fruterias (Moreno, I think) has the most delicious selection of olives. One of the grocery stores sold whole and half roasted chickens. We also eat a lot of tuna with white beans and basalmic reduction over the top when it is warm outside. I know my husband has eaten lomo several days in a row while walking the past couple of week (standard offering) and he was glad to eventually find something different.

Thanks that’s a great suggestion thanks

 

[Happyinharrogate]

Day 9. Back waking today and my feet really appreciated a day off. Have met people who are taking NO rest days in the whole journey which seems pretty hard core. I am much better positioned today having big walked yesterday. Today was Burgos to Hornillos del Camino. 13 miles and it now seems a pretty easy walk, and you definitely do improve your fitness as you go. I’m averaging around 3 miles per hour pace ( excluding stops) and today was fine. Before I came 13 miles would have been a challenge. Quite liked Burgos and preferred it to Logrono though I actually think I enjoy more staying in smaller places where you have more chance to interact with other walkers. In Hornillos there are it seems around 2 places to eat and drink big should be fine for the number of walkers here. I’m still booking ahead 2/3 days and managing to get accommodation in private rooms ok though it clearly is limited and most people I meet are booking ahead.
The weather is cooler than if was at the start abd in a few days expected to stop yo 17/18c!
Having left behind in Logrono lots of great waking buddies I’d developed relationships with over first week am already firming new acquaintances, it’s so easy to get to know people and have a sociable tone if that’s what you want.
So far no injuries or foot problems which was my concern so long May if continue
Castrojeriz tomorrow another 13 mile

 

[kared]

Hi Kared. So re packing first thing to say is I have definitely overpacked. I have far more stuff than others I meet, and I could have cut down on changes of t shirts and just accepted washing more regularly. I did start to think that some of the warmer clothes I’ve brought (merino wool top, down jacket) would be superfluous however the temperature is dropping as I move west and in next few days temps of 17/18 in the day are forecast. So could I have got away with much less probably not but doing it again I would try to reduce if possible.
Re the first day it is the toughest day for sure and took me 8 hours in total and that was at a pretty good pace so could be up to 9/10 hours if your fitness is not quite there for the start. Starting off 7.30/8 would he recommended.

Thank you. What is your normal pace in tbe uk? I’m guessing about 3 mph. While I can do distance I’m still ploddy so 2 1/2 mph. Fingers crossed we can make it in daylight. I think I may try a 7am start just to be sure.
Thank you for your reply. And wishing you all the best for the remainder of your trip. I’ll be looking to see how you get on. . Have fun.

 

[Lhollo]

Day 9. Back waking today and my feet really appreciated a day off. Have met people who are taking NO rest days in the whole journey which seems pretty hard core. I am much better positioned today having big walked yesterday. Today was Burgos to Hornillos del Camino. 13 miles and it now seems a pretty easy walk, and you definitely do improve your fitness as you go. I’m averaging around 3 miles per hour pace ( excluding stops) and today was fine. Before I came 13 miles would have been a challenge. Quite liked Burgos and preferred it to Logrono though I actually think I enjoy more staying in smaller places where you have more chance to interact with other walkers. In Hornillos there are it seems around 2 places to eat and drink big should be fine for the number of walkers here. I’m still booking ahead 2/3 days and managing to get accommodation in private rooms ok though it clearly is limited and most people I meet are booking ahead.
The weather is cooler than if was at the start abd in a few days expected to stop yo 17/18c!
Having left behind in Logrono lots of great waking buddies I’d developed relationships with over first week am already firming new acquaintances, it’s so easy to get to know people and have a sociable tone if that’s what you want.
So far no injuries or foot problems which was my concern so long May if continue
Castrojeriz tomorrow another 13 mile

Yes, that shift from ‘Ah, 13 miles, that’s a challenge’ to ‘Only a short day! Just 13 miles’. I agree with you that the people taking no rest days seem hardcore; don’t know how they do it. I’m not really sure why they do it either Good to hear you have no foot problems. What’s your footwear?

 

[kared]

Yes, that shift from ‘Ah, 13 miles, that’s a challenge’ to ‘Only a short day! Just 13 miles’. I agree with you that the people taking no rest days seem hardcore; don’t know how they do it. I’m not really sure why they do it either Good to hear you have no foot problems. What’s your footwear?

Great question re forward. I was contemplating new trainers for lightness but have decided on my walking shoes a bit heavier but well worn in and waterproof for sure. What’s anyone else wearing. I have flip flops (slides actually) for the evening (assuming I get one).
Buen Camino everyone.

 

[Lhollo]

Great question re forward. I was contemplating new trainers for lightness but have decided on my walking shoes a bit heavier but well worn in and waterproof for sure. What’s anyone else wearing. I have flip flops (slides actually) for the evening (assuming I get one).
Buen Camino everyone.

The often argued point about waterproof footwear is that if you encounter heavy rain or in any other way get waterproof shoes wet on the inside, they won’t easily dry out. But if you know your footwear well in advance, that’s a good start?

In case it helps, I tried every shoe on the planet before my Camino . There’s a gem of a thread here somewhere. Shoes are of course a very individual thing but I did ultimately opt for light weight, cushioned road running shoes. I also have similar trail shoes which I love but decided would be too hot for when I was on the Camino. And I used injinji toe socks which I found great. At home, I previously used smartwool and darn tough merino wool socks, and sealskins for poor weather.

I had EVA Birkenstock’s for afternoons and evenings and found them brilliant. So lightweight, so comfy. My partner had them too but while we were there it transpired that he should have bought a half size smaller.

 

[Former member 49149]

Day 9. Back waking today and my feet really appreciated a day off. Have met people who are taking NO rest days in the whole journey which seems pretty hard core. I am much better positioned today having big walked yesterday. Today was Burgos to Hornillos del Camino. 13 miles and it now seems a pretty easy walk, and you definitely do improve your fitness as you go. I’m averaging around 3 miles per hour pace ( excluding stops) and today was fine. Before I came 13 miles would have been a challenge. Quite liked Burgos and preferred it to Logrono though I actually think I enjoy more staying in smaller places where you have more chance to interact with other walkers. In Hornillos there are it seems around 2 places to eat and drink big should be fine for the number of walkers here. I’m still booking ahead 2/3 days and managing to get accommodation in private rooms ok though it clearly is limited and most people I meet are booking ahead.
The weather is cooler than if was at the start abd in a few days expected to stop yo 17/18c!
Having left behind in Logrono lots of great waking buddies I’d developed relationships with over first week am already firming new acquaintances, it’s so easy to get to know people and have a sociable tone if that’s what you want.
So far no injuries or foot problems which was my concern so long May if continue
Castrojeriz tomorrow another 13 mile

Hardcore? You should have seen me! No, I was not hardcore. I was taking one step at a time. We put two days in the bank for rest days and luxury accommodation (the cheapest hotel!). They are still in the bank...

 

[Happyinharrogate]

Yes, that shift from ‘Ah, 13 miles, that’s a challenge’ to ‘Only a short day! Just 13 miles’. I agree with you that the people taking no rest days seem hardcore; don’t know how they do it. I’m not really sure why they do it either Good to hear you have no foot problems. What’s your footwear?

Hiking shoes by Miendl.

 

[Happyinharrogate]

Day 10. Hornillos del Camino to Castrojeriz. Nice enough walk of 13 miles, no big ups or downs. Apart from day 1 I haven’t found any other day to be particularly challenging so is all very doable. Wearher continuing to cool and this morning first time starting out in a fleece. During day was around 19/20 and blue skies.
Last night in Hornillos good value menu of the day for €10 including wine.
Tonight staying in A Cien Leguas which is lovely and super helpful host. €40 for private room.
Castrojeriz looks pretty and is boy tiny but only a couple of bar/ restaurant choices. Like most places you pass through they seem like ghost towns with no locals to be seen anywhere.

 

[tonya w]

The often argued point about waterproof footwear is that if you encounter heavy rain or in any other way get waterproof shoes wet on the inside, they won’t easily dry out. But if you know your footwear well in advance, that’s a good start?

In case it helps, I tried every shoe on the planet before my Camino . There’s a gem of a thread here somewhere. Shoes are of course a very individual thing but I did ultimately opt for light weight, cushioned road running shoes. I also have similar trail shoes which I love but decided would be too hot for when I was on the Camino. And I used injinji toe socks which I found great. At home, I previously used smartwool and darn tough merino wool socks, and sealskins for poor weather.

I had EVA Birkenstock’s for afternoons and evenings and found them brilliant. So lightweight, so comfy. My partner had them too but while we were there it transpired that he should have bought a half size smaller.

LOVE LOVE LOVE my EVAs. On my 9th pair; I often leave them in a country after a hundred miles on them. There is plenty of wear left on them but housekeepers love them as a "gift" with a tip. One housekeeper followed me out of my hotel in Poland to thank me.

 

[Happyinharrogate]

Castrojeriz to Boadillo del Camino. Shorter day at just over 11 miles. Accommodation unavailability is changing my itinerary somewhat and I was hoping to go further today. Will mean a slightly longer stretch tomorrow up to Carrion de Los Condes. Been lucky with the weather again forecast for rain never materialised and the day was perfect walking weather with blue skies and a high of 18/19. Boadillo del Camino is very small place with literally just one full service hostel/Albergue in the town, there is another smaller Albergue. Apart from that no shops no other facilities and nothing really to see here, so everything will no doubt centre around the dinner offer here at the En El Camino hostel. I can see why most people would head to Fromista

 

[SabsP]

Castrojeriz to Boadillo del Camino. Shorter day at just over 11 miles. Accommodation unavailability is changing my itinerary somewhat and I was hoping to go further today. Will mean a slightly longer stretch tomorrow up to Carrion de Los Condes. Been lucky with the weather again forecast for rain never materialised and the day was perfect walking weather with blue skies and a high of 18/19. Boadillo del Camino is very small place with literally just one full service hostel/Albergue in the town, there is another smaller Albergue. Apart from that no shops no other facilities and nothing really to see here, so everything will no doubt centre around the dinner offer here at the En El Camino hostel. I can see why most people would head to Fromista

Enjoy the garden at the albergue!

If you want to book a place for tomorrow in Carrion de los Codnes I can recommend the albergue of the Hijas de la Caridad. And old converted boardingschool. Single beds.

Albergue Espíritu Santo | Albergue de Peregrinos en Carrión de los Condes | Gronze.com

Información del albergue de peregrinos Albergue Espíritu Santo, en Carrión de los Condes: Precio, plazas, características, etc...

www.gronze.com

 

[Lhollo]

Glad the weather’s improved. What are your thoughts on the landscape? Is it shifting day to day much, the way it does in the earlier etapas? Also, have you got the later stages booked? (Sorry I can’t remember this but think you mentioned it in another thread). Hope the stretch to Carrion de los Condes is pleasant tomorrow

 

[David with new Kit!]

You are catching me up, I'm in Sahagún tomorrow. When we left Carrion this morning it was only 5c.

 

[Happyinharrogate]

Glad the weather’s improved. What are your thoughts on the landscape? Is it shifting day to day much, the way it does in the earlier etapas? Also, have you got the later stages booked? (Sorry I can’t remember this but think you mentioned it in another thread). Hope the stretch to Carrion de los Condes is pleasant tomorrow

Really enjoyed my leg today from Bodillos del Camino to Carrion fe Los Condes. 16 miles, I really like it here it’s the right size of place to have variety but not huge. You bump into your fellow walkers in the main square.
Was chilly this morning and tonight and I will breaking out my down jacket sometime soon that I really didn’t think I needed.
Weather during the day is still great and perfect walking weather and still so lucky have had no rain. Around 19 c in the day
Bit of a shorter day tomorrow to Ledigos.
Have well formed my new second week walking buddies but will be moving on another step in a couple of days so will be leaving these behind as well soon enough

 

[Happyinharrogate]

not sure what day Ealing it is today but walked from Carrion de las Condus to Ledegus. 14 miles. I had lots of company but without it it’s a very dull walk! Very straight lots on a road you need a distraction if some kind. Mine was walking with a couple of other people but we got very disapproving looks and comments from people who expected us to be silent. I kind of get it but also it’s good to find out peoples stories.
Carrion was a lovely small York with a few choices for meals etc abd we even found a music concert which was excellent. Perfect weather again though in this evening I did finally dig out my down jacket as it’s was pretty chilly

 

[Lhollo]

Thanks for still writing your updates. I’m enjoying them. The silence on the meseta section seems specific to it; is that your impression?

 

[Happyinharrogate]

Thanks for still writing your updates. I’m enjoying them. The silence on the meseta section seems specific to it; is that your impression?

Yeh maybe, I’ve never had it before when chatting with people.

 

[Former member 49149]

Castrojeriz to Boadillo del Camino. Shorter day at just over 11 miles. Accommodation unavailability is changing my itinerary somewhat and I was hoping to go further today. Will mean a slightly longer stretch tomorrow up to Carrion de Los Condes. Been lucky with the weather again forecast for rain never materialised and the day was perfect walking weather with blue skies and a high of 18/19. Boadillo del Camino is very small place with literally just one full service hostel/Albergue in the town, there is another smaller Albergue. Apart from that no shops no other facilities and nothing really to see here, so everything will no doubt centre around the dinner offer here at the En El Camino hostel. I can see why most people would head to Fromista

Your last sentence made me say: this is a clear example of how each pilgrim finds what is meant to be. Peeking in through the gate into the enclosure of the garden space in the albergue you stayed in was balm. Everything about that place was a gift. Not least the kidney shaped pool!

 

[Happyinharrogate]

A milestone day. Halfway of the Camino completed here in Sahagun. There is a halfway certificate you can get from the library here (€4). Another step change for me after today as I’m jumping on a train to Leon tomorrow. This means I’m leaving behind my second week family who have been great. Special mention to Jeff, Bill, Jena, Claudia, Mark who j have shared a good few miles, smiles and drinks and meals with. In last few days have really enjoyed these places to stay
A Cien Leguas at Castrojeriz
En El Camino at Boadillo del Camino
Albuerge La Morena at Ledigos.
All very comfortable, good facilities and great staff.
Mornings and evenings getting cooler and I actually used my down jacket last night which I didn’t think was going to happen but now glad I brought it

 

[Happyinharrogate]

I may sound like I have moaned about food along the way and I guess that’s because I really enjoy good and different food experiences, and finding great choices on the Camino is still challenging. So tonight in Sahugun I looked for a pilgrims menu at any restaurant. I found 2 one starts at 8.30 and one at 9. Then the rest of the choices are pizzas, burgers and pasta. For walkers waiting till 8.30/9 for a nice meal isn’t really doable as most I know ( including me) want to be in bed by 10 ready for an early start. I’m still finding it strange how the restaurants in towns don’t cater for this market. Enough of the morning looking forward to something nice in Leon

 

[Happyinharrogate]

Yeh! Leon delivered. What a lovely place. Lovely old Roman city with lovely narrow streets and loads of bars/restaurants. The cathedral is obviously worth a visit fantastic stained glass windows. Really loved it here. This has been a rest day for me and it was a great choice for a lay over. Highly recommend it. Found lovely food, lovely atmosphere, was pretty cool weather wise though, and surprised me that it isn’t warmer than it is. We’re still pretty high so maybe that contributes. Another day when rain was forecasted and if don’t rain again, can’t believe my luck so far

 

[Lhollo]

I may sound like I have moaned about food along the way and I guess that’s because I really enjoy good and different food experiences, and finding great choices on the Camino is still challenging. So tonight in Sahugun I looked for a pilgrims menu at any restaurant. I found 2 one starts at 8.30 and one at 9. Then the rest of the choices are pizzas, burgers and pasta. For walkers waiting till 8.30/9 for a nice meal isn’t really doable as most I know ( including me) want to be in bed by 10 ready for an early start. I’m still finding it strange how the restaurants in towns don’t cater for this market. Enough of the morning looking forward to something nice in Leon

Yes, I struggle with this too. Conversely, I found it hard when walking the Dales Way in England, that many of the B&Bs only served breakfast from 8:30am! What’s a good walk with no obstacles eh?

 

[J Willhaus]

It isn't like home, but still most days a great experience.

 

[Happyinharrogate]

So I now Have around 150 miles to go before reaching Santiago. I am in Rabena Del Camino. Amazingly today was the first day of proper rain and more forecast tomorrow. It does change the experience somewhat but I knew this would come at some point. My reflections on my own Camino are that I think I could have planned longer stages than I’m doing. I feel in good enough shape at the end of a day to have done more miles, and the terrain is generally not as challenging as expected though I know I have a few challenging days ahead. One thing I would appreciate any feedback on is how busy the cathedral is in Santiago and Will I need to queue when I arrive? It’s likely to be a Monday when I arrive.

 

[jsalt]

finding great choices on the Camino is still challenging

There is a saying – When in Rome do as the Romans do . . .

So . . . when in Spain do as the Spanish do.

Which is?

Their main meal of the day is at lunch time.

Stop about 1pm-ish. The Menu del Dia is MUCH more interesting than the Pilgrim Menu in the evening.

Relax for an hour or so after lunch (during their siesta), and then wander on again slowly for another 5 kilometres or so to your overnight stop.

By the time you have showered, sorted stuff out etc etc, it will be time to go out for a vino tinto and a few tapas.

No more going to bed at 10pm stuffed and bloated on a carbo-rich pilgrim menu!

 

[Happyinharrogate]

Today 17 miles from rabena del Camino to molienesca. Today is the day you get to pass the Cruz Fierra which is a special moment. The scenery is fabulous today and even in the wet and low clouds it was dramatic. Moliensca is a decent size town with an old street full of character and a number of accommodations and bars. Very wet again today but it should clear yo again tomorrow. Just 9 days out from Santiago now which feels very close

 

[Happyinharrogate]

Yesterday was a long stretch, 20 miles to Villafranca de Bieoz. Thankfully the rain disappeared and got hot around 25c. Was a lovely walk again through lots of wine country, and vineyards are just starting to harvest. There’s lots of free grapes on offer at many of the vineyards which are delicious. Really enjoyed today’s walk, beautiful scenery and Villafranca is very picturesque. Unfortunately rain is forecast again for today’s walk so it’s been Unsettled last few days and still wearing my down jacket in the evenings. I’m walking to Las Herreras today stopping just before the next big ascent.

 

[Happyinharrogate]

Ok so seems I was lucky again and despite rain being forecasted, none appeared and was a pretty nice day at around 19c. The route from Villafranca to Las Herrererias is mostly alongside of roads, which whilst not particularly inspiring, the backdrop of the mountains is nice and the scenery is good on this stretch. Lots of villages passed through on way here however in many of them no bars are open, so best advice is stop when you see one that is as you’re never sure when another appears. Forecast is for fair weather next few days. Perfect walking weather not too hot. Staying at La Pandela I’m Las Herrerias which is nice, nice private rooms and dinner and breakfast served in the hotel

 

[Texas Walker]

I think the albergue you were trying to find for dinner might be El Palo Avellano (The Hazel Stick). It’s on the main road, keeping the church on your right, a little further down. We stayed there a few weeks ago, as did many pilgrims we chatted with. An excellent pilgrim dinner, for which I believe it has a reputation. Also a really lovely place.

In 2014 we went to that little diner near the entrance to the town. Nice lady. Food was fine.
BC

 

[Peregrinopaul]

Perfect walking weather not too hot.

Looking forward to reading your reaction to the climb ahead. I remember a few expletives as I pushed my bike most of the way from La Faba!

 

[Robo]

Yes I will. Haven’t seen a green veg since I left uk

The next one you see might be when you get home

It doesn't seem to be a Spanish 'thing'.

Grab the salads when you can!

And I 100% concur with the Menu del Dia being waaaay better than the Pilgrim Menus.

Loving your posts

 

[Happyinharrogate]

Las herreras to Triacastela. So today 18 miles and one 600 metre ascent and a little bit later a cheeky further 100 metre climb. After walking for the past few weeks I was prepared for it, but I had a friend joined me today from uk and she also handled it really well. It was perfect walking weather today and if anything a little cool with a chilly wind first thing and on the high stages. Nice walk, scenery very verdant, green and very like England scenery. Mountain backdrop is awesome. Las Herrerias is a small place but we had a nice meal at La Pandela. Tonight staying at Albergue Ario in Tríacastela which is nice. Ate at Esther restaurant one of two in the village and seemed to be the popular choice. Tomorrow Sarria and expect the volume of traffic to ramp up significantly

 

[Lhollo]

Las herreras to Triacastela. So today 18 miles and one 600 metre ascent and a little bit later a cheeky further 100 metre climb. After walking for the past few weeks I was prepared for it, but I had a friend joined me today from uk and she also handled it really well. It was perfect walking weather today and if anything a little cool with a chilly wind first thing and on the high stages. Nice walk, scenery very verdant, green and very like England scenery. Mountain backdrop is awesome. Las Herrerias is a small place but we had a nice meal at La Pandela. Tonight staying at Albergue Ario in Tríacastela which is nice. Ate at Esther restaurant one of two in the village and seemed to be the popular choice. Tomorrow Sarria and expect the volume of traffic to ramp up significantly

How do you think it would have been if you’d walked from Villafranca to O’Cebreiro? That’s my plan for next June. Glad you enjoyed it today and I hope Sarria’s fun!

 

[Happyinharrogate]

How do you think it would have been if you’d walked from Villafranca to O’Cebreiro? That’s my plan for next June. Glad you enjoyed it today and I hope Sarria’s fun!

Not sure if you got my reply. Many people chose my option. The climb at the end of a fairly long day I think would be challenging but no more than day 1 so can be done we and others chose not to

 

[Happyinharrogate]

Yesterday triacastella to Sarria. Nice easier day compared today before just 12 miles with one climb of 300 metres which wasn’t too bad. Drizzled most of the day and didn’t see much due to mist. We expect the trail to now get busier from Sarria. Fair weather today. Unfortunately I’ve started with a shin splint injury so will be walking slower today. Will try and pick up the kinetic tape to wrap it and hope it doesn’t get worse

 

[Lhollo]

Yesterday triacastella to Sarria. Nice easier day compared today before just 12 miles with one climb of 300 metres which wasn’t too bad. Drizzled most of the day and didn’t see much due to mist. We expect the trail to now get busier from Sarria. Fair weather today. Unfortunately I’ve started with a shin splint injury so will be walking slower today. Will try and pick up the kinetic tape to wrap it and hope it doesn’t get worse

I hope all’s going well and that the shin splint has improved or at least been under control today

 

[Happyinharrogate]

Sarria to Portomarin. 14 miles. Today was when the Pilgrim highway was in evidence, so many more peregrinos on the route today and didn’t recognise many faces at all which is very unusual. At times it gets very busy. Lovely walk today. Very Misty at the start but broke into lovely warm sunshine in the afternoon. Love Portomarin, what a really nice village and we are staying at the best place we’ve had in the whole trip El Paradino. A godfather inspired classy pension, single room €60 but very special. Now have a shin strain which I’m diagnosing as a shin soling but tape and ibruprofin gel hog me through today and think it will for the next 4 days.

 

[Happyinharrogate]

Portomarin to Palas des Rei. 16 miles. Not too challenging a few ups and downs. Started Misty again , then sunny and ended in rain. Palais de Rei not much to commend it and paid the most money tonight ( not worth it) at the As Hotas pension. Disappointed with it for the money. Grey, dull and rainy forecast through to the finish now. Not cold though

 

[Happyinharrogate]

2 days out from Santiago. I’m trying to balance my feelings between reaching the end, seeing my wife who i haven’t seen in weeks and trying to still enjoy each day, ( even though the weather is grim!). I must stay focussed on the journey and not the destination. Left Palais de Rais and walked 17 miles to Rabidiso. Rabidiso is a small hamlet a mile before Azura. I like these small places and my pension Ribadiso is very nice with a decent restaurant attached. Weather not been good last couple of days and nog good tomorrow. I think we’ve lost the nice warm weather permanently now. Didn’t much care for Palais de Rea. Landscape and walking is very English along wooded paths. I think this is the terrain all way into Santiago. Tomorrow headed to O Pedrozo.

 

[Canada1]

2 days out from Santiago. I’m trying to balance my feelings between reaching the end, seeing my wife who i haven’t seen in weeks and trying to still enjoy each day, ( even though the weather is grim!). I must stay focussed on the journey and not the destination. Left Palais de Rais and walked 17 miles to Rabidiso. Rabidiso is a small hamlet a mile before Azura. I like these small places and my pension Ribadiso is very nice with a decent restaurant attached. Weather not been good last couple of days and nog good tomorrow. I think we’ve lost the nice warm weather permanently now. Didn’t much care for Palais de Rea. Landscape and walking is very English along wooded paths. I think this is the terrain all way into Santiago. Tomorrow headed to O Pedrozo.

Hello. before you end your Camino, I wanted to stop in and say I have enjoyed reading your post and following along with you on your journey. I am planning to do my Camino in September next year. I found your post especially about where to eat and stay really informative....Thanks for sharing!

 

[Happyinharrogate]

Hello. before you end your Camino, I wanted to stop in and say I have enjoyed reading your post and following along with you on your journey. I am planning to do my Camino in September next year. I found your post especially about where to eat and stay really informative....Thanks for sharing!

Thanks and if you have any specific questions about any aspects of the walk when you take it in next year just ask and very happy to give my take on it.

 

[Happyinharrogate]

Well the day has arrived. Today we will arrive in Santiago. Last couple of days I have had to reset myself not to think too much of the finish and enjoy the journey, the place and the people I’m with which I’ve done. So many things I’m thinking of and will take time to compute them all. Yesterday’s walk was drier than expected. As through all Galicia, it’s still all very English countryside like. 17 miles yesterday from Rabidiso. Leaves just 12 miles today and wouldn’t have thought I would have been saying ‘just’ a few weeks ago. The atmosphere in Pedrouzo last night was very much celebratory and whilst I’m sure it will be as well in Santiago, people will be more spread out so it was nice people were in one place did a final time. Will update with final thoughts after today

 

[Lhollo]

Well the day has arrived. Today we will arrive in Santiago. Last couple of days I have had to reset myself not to think too much of the finish and enjoy the journey, the place and the people I’m with which I’ve done. So many things I’m thinking of and will take time to compute them all. Yesterday’s walk was drier than expected. As through all Galicia, it’s still all very English countryside like. 17 miles yesterday from Rabidiso. Leaves just 12 miles today and wouldn’t have thought I would have been saying ‘just’ a few weeks ago. The atmosphere in Pedrouzo last night was very much celebratory and whilst I’m sure it will be as well in Santiago, people will be more spread out so it was nice people were in one place did a final time. Will update with final thoughts after today

I hope you’ve had a fantastic day! You’ve done well, I imagine, during the last few days, to avoid thinking of the finish. I can’t believe it’s been several weeks—time passes more quickly here in England!— but it’s been a joy to follow your progress each day. Looking forward to your next posts!

 

[Happyinharrogate]

So finally made it to Santiago. The last 12 miles were fun lots of singing along the way from groups. Easy enough final day took around 4+ hours to arrive. When you get to Santiago it’s such a long walk in from the outskirts of town took forever. Felt elated, emotional, satisfied arriving. When we got to the main square there was however a slight disappointment. My perfect end was to walk into the cathedral and touch the statue of St James. 2 things thwarted that. You can not take backpacks into the cathedral and no one gave us a tip that you can leave them outside, ( which you can), so we felt we couldn’t go straight in before checking into our accommodation and unloading our packs. Then when we finally made it into the cathedral the door where you pass the James statue is not in use currently and the statue is cordoned off so you can’t get to touch it or the architects statue. Sled didn’t get to complete any of the usual rituals which was such a shame. We missed the opportunity to get out Compostela yesterday as we were too late but this morning went back at 9 and after an hours queuing we got it! Feels strange not to be walking today and will take time to readjust to normal life. Wonderful experience so pleased I did it. If anyone wants any hostel recommendations or tips happy to help others planning. You all will LOvE it!

 

[J Willhaus]

Congrats. There is usually a post Camino adjustment period.

 

[Lhollo]

So finally made it to Santiago. The last 12 miles were fun lots of singing along the way from groups. Easy enough final day took around 4+ hours to arrive. When you get to Santiago it’s such a long walk in from the outskirts of town took forever. Felt elated, emotional, satisfied arriving. When we got to the main square there was however a slight disappointment. My perfect end was to walk into the cathedral and touch the statue of St James. 2 things thwarted that. You can not take backpacks into the cathedral and no one gave us a tip that you can leave them outside, ( which you can), so we felt we couldn’t go straight in before checking into our accommodation and unloading our packs. Then when we finally made it into the cathedral the door where you pass the James statue is not in use currently and the statue is cordoned off so you can’t get to touch it or the architects statue. Sled didn’t get to complete any of the usual rituals which was such a shame. We missed the opportunity to get out Compostela yesterday as we were too late but this morning went back at 9 and after an hours queuing we got it! Feels strange not to be walking today and will take time to readjust to normal life. Wonderful experience so pleased I did it. If anyone wants any hostel recommendations or tips happy to help others planning. You all will LOvE it!

Congratulations! I might pick your brains re my Camino continuation next May. You seem to have breezed it! The adjustment period: for me it was a far more intense thing than I’d expected, given I walked for just two weeks and have previously walked thru hikes. The Camino is different. You may have had longer to process it all. It’ll be interesting to know your thoughts after you’ve returned. Congratulations again on reaching in Santiago!