Molinaseca to O Cebreiro stage mess up?

[Purple Backpack]

I think I messed up my stages. Following Brierly now after being off stage during the busy sections. Brierly has a stage from Molinaseca to villafranca del Bierzo. And then one potentially horrendous day up to o Cebreiro. I made one solid reservation and it’s for O Cebreiro on 4 June as everything was was solidly booked. Thoughts from those experienced in this stage? I’m usually a walking purist but if I need to bus part of it, which is best way to do it? I’d like to walk up to OCebreiro. Would also like to see Ponferrada castle if possible. Thanks for any advice, much appreciated!

 

[trecile]

I've walked from Villafranca del Bierzo to O Cebreiro twice. Once on the official Camino, and once on the higher route. It's definitely doable and I didn't find it horrendous.
If you are concerned you can try to get s reservation in one of the towns before the climb to O Cebreiro.

Villafranca del Bierzo - O Cebreiro | Camino Francés | Gronze.com

Es la Etapa Reina, cuyo recuerdo permanecerá indeleble al paso del tiempo, gracias a la bellísima, apasionante y temida subida a O Cebreiro, el mayor ascenso del Camino Francés en territorio español. La subida transcurre, en buena parte, por corredoiras, con un desnivel de 660 metros a lo largo...

www.gronze.com

 

[Vacajoe]

The climb to O Cebreiro is not horrendous, but actually quite beautiful. Sure, it’s a bit tiring but that’s part of the joy of walking. I’ve done that stage from Villafranca and it’s absolutely doable.

 

[Juspassinthru]

I think I messed up my stages. Following Brierly now after being off stage during the busy sections. Brierly has a stage from Molinaseca to villafranca del Bierzo. And then one potentially horrendous day up to o Cebreiro. I made one solid reservation and it’s for O Cebreiro on 4 June as everything was was solidly booked. Thoughts from those experienced in this stage? I’m usually a walking purist but if I need to bus part of it, which is best way to do it? I’d like to walk up to OCebreiro. Would also like to see Ponferrada castle if possible. Thanks for any advice, much appreciated!

I’m a bit confused. Are you asking about Molinaceca to O’C, that’s a huge day. Or, are you asking about Villafranca to O’C which is very doable. I’m still a bit jet lagged so it’s probably me.

 

[Purple Backpack]

I’m a bit confused. Are you asking about Molinaceca to O’C, that’s a huge day. Or, are you asking about Villafranca to O’C which is very doable. I’m still a bit jet lagged so it’s probably me.

Villa to OC. I think it may be too much with the climb. Between moli and Vega, which part to skip?

 

[Purple Backpack]

I've walked from Villafranca del Bierzo to O Cebreiro twice. Once on the official Camino, and once on the higher route. It's definitely doable and I didn't find it horrendous.
If you are concerned you can try to get s reservation in one of the towns before the climb to O Cebreiro.

View attachment 171731

Villafranca del Bierzo - O Cebreiro | Camino Francés | Gronze.com

Es la Etapa Reina, cuyo recuerdo permanecerá indeleble al paso del tiempo, gracias a la bellísima, apasionante y temida subida a O Cebreiro, el mayor ascenso del Camino Francés en territorio español. La subida transcurre, en buena parte, por corredoiras, con un desnivel de 660 metros a lo largo...

www.gronze.com

That’s encouraging, thank you!

 

[Juspassinthru]

Villa to OC. I think it may be too much with the climb. Between moli and Vega, which part to skip?

If you’re going to skip some, my choice would be the road from Molinaseca and Ponferrada. Road walking and boring. About 7k I think.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

I stayed in Villafranca del Bierzo, then the next night in La Faba, then stopped in O Cebreiro the next day, but pushed on to Fonfria for the night.

Two years later we stayed in Cacabelos instead of Villafranca, then stayed the following night in A Portela de Valcarce, before climbing to O Cebreiro the next day, spending the night at the huge municipal albergue.

 

[CWBuff]

Villafranca del Bierzo to O Cebreiro is very doable; I actually walked past it to Linares do Rei. Stops at La Faba and OC for some grub and slight rest.
While it was tough it was by no means a mess or a nightmare
I'm sure you can do it. If need be get an earlier start ( IIRC I hit the road around 6::00am)

 

[Grousedoctor]

For what it’s worth, I had originally planned to stay in Villafranca, but because of my early arrival there, I walked on to Trabadelo another 10km. It was a very easy walk and put me closer to the climb up to O Cebreiro the next day. Several albergues there with good places to eat. I easily made it up the mountain before mid-day, set my backpack in line at the albergue, and enjoy a nice lunch before checking in.

 

[SFHiker]

I did Villafranca to O Cebreiro on a very rainy day in mid May. The worse part was the muddy sections that also got turned up by the cattle that also used the trail.
It was a long slow day but I got to the municipal in O Cebreiro just as they opened.
It's definitely a doable walk and probably easier if there is no rain!

 

[BarbaraW]

If you want to shorten the stage a bit could you cancel your O Cebreiro booking and stay 5 k shorter at La Faba, which doesn't take bookings.

 

[camino07]

On one occasion I stayed in a lovely place in Las Herrerias and then also overnighted in O Cebreiro . love the Celtic ambience there.

 

[Roland49]

I think I messed up my stages. Following Brierly now after being off stage during the busy sections. Brierly has a stage from Molinaseca to villafranca del Bierzo. And then one potentially horrendous day up to o Cebreiro. I made one solid reservation and it’s for O Cebreiro on 4 June as everything was was solidly booked. Thoughts from those experienced in this stage? I’m usually a walking purist but if I need to bus part of it, which is best way to do it? I’d like to walk up to OCebreiro. Would also like to see Ponferrada castle if possible. Thanks for any advice, much appreciated!

Made it from VdB to O Cebreiro while having an nasty, unpleasant blister. A little bit slower, but doable!

 

[MikeJS]

I walked Villafranca to Hospital da Condesa and stayed in the Municipal Albergue. My blog states "Left a little earlier this morning as I woke up at 0630 and was not sure where the day would end. A lot of road walking but by a river as well. Overall, quite pleasant. The climb up to O’C is supposed to be the longest of all the Caminos and it is quite a slog. It’s about 8kms uphill with an elevation gain of about 800m. And it was hot today. Still, got to the top OK and averaged 5.4km per hour since Villafranca so I was surprised by that as I thought it would be lower. Did not want to stay in OC not least because the Albergue there has 110 beds and the whole place would be crowded. Stopped at the next place, 3.4km down the road- Linares, but there were no beds anywhere. So walked on another 2.4km to Hospital da Condesa where there is a municipal Albergue ( so they cannot be booked) and I was only the second person there of 18 beds. I knew there was no bar or anything so I stocked up on the way. And Sod’s Law it turns out there is a bar and they do meals. "

 

[markie6]

O Cebreiro is harder if it's at the end of a day IMHO. The weather can play a part of course

I've gone Trabadelo to Fonfria, Trabadelo to Filoval and last time '22 VDB to Fonfria all in busy Septembers without booking

If you have time constraints or O Cebreiro causes concern, you could always take the horse up or a taxi. There are plenty who make their livings near the bigger hills

Much depends on time available and pain threshold and whether you're happier knowing where your bed is ..good luck

 

[davejsy]

Whatever you choose try to take the higher Pradela variant from Villafrance del B - it's beautiful. If you change your plans then there is a wonderful little Albergue in Pradela which must be a magical place to stay.

 

[Hiawatha]

I think I messed up my stages. Following Brierly now after being off stage during the busy sections. Brierly has a stage from Molinaseca to villafranca del Bierzo. And then one potentially horrendous day up to o Cebreiro. I made one solid reservation and it’s for O Cebreiro on 4 June as everything was was solidly booked. Thoughts from those experienced in this stage? I’m usually a walking purist but if I need to bus part of it, which is best way to do it? I’d like to walk up to OCebreiro. Would also like to see Ponferrada castle if possible. Thanks for any advice, much appreciated!

It's certainly not horrendous. I rate the walk from Los Herrerias as one of the nicest legs .

 

[Juspassinthru]

It's certainly not horrendous. I rate the walk from Los Herrerias as one of the nicest legs .

BTW, they are working on the trail from Las Herrerias, leveling and resurfacing it. When we walked through there in early May, they’d only completed about a kilometer or so but it was nice to see.

 

[Saint Mike II]

From Molinaseca you can take the valley floor Camino and stop at Casa Susi. It’s the first albergue you run into coming from the east. I can vouch for the owners/managers. Buen Camino

 

[truthseeker]

O Cebreiro is harder if it's at the end of a day IMHO. The weather can play a part of course

I've gone Trabadelo to Fonfria, Trabadelo to Filoval and last time '22 VDB to Fonfria all in busy Septembers without booking

If you have time constraints or O Cebreiro causes concern, you could always take the horse up or a taxi. There are plenty who make their livings near the bigger hills

Much depends on time available and pain threshold and whether you're happier knowing where your bed is ..good luck

I shared a taxi with two Mexican women -- there are apparently usually a taxi or two waiting when the bus comes in.

 

[PilgrimJames]

I think I messed up my stages. Following Brierly now after being off stage during the busy sections. Brierly has a stage from Molinaseca to villafranca del Bierzo. And then one potentially horrendous day up to o Cebreiro. I made one solid reservation and it’s for O Cebreiro on 4 June as everything was was solidly booked. Thoughts from those experienced in this stage? I’m usually a walking purist but if I need to bus part of it, which is best way to do it? I’d like to walk up to OCebreiro. Would also like to see Ponferrada castle if possible. Thanks for any advice, much appreciated!

La Faba is a good stop on the climb. Worth consideration.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

La Faba is a good stop on the climb. Worth consideration.

I thought it was a perfect stop, a lovely renovated stone muni to stay at, and the longish switchback climb on the trail to get there was enough for me on a very warm spring day.

 

[Marian Patricia]

I think I messed up my stages. Following Brierly now after being off stage during the busy sections. Brierly has a stage from Molinaseca to villafranca del Bierzo. And then one potentially horrendous day up to o Cebreiro. I made one solid reservation and it’s for O Cebreiro on 4 June as everything was was solidly booked. Thoughts from those experienced in this stage? I’m usually a walking purist but if I need to bus part of it, which is best way to do it? I’d like to walk up to OCebreiro. Would also like to see Ponferrada castle if possible. Thanks for any advice, much appreciated!

We walked Vega de Valcarce to O Cebreiro - kept it short on purpose but could have gone much farther. Yes it’s a climb but we didn’t find it that difficult (age 66). The portion down to Molinaseca was more difficult.

 

[Tony Lenton]

I think I messed up my stages. Following Brierly now after being off stage during the busy sections. Brierly has a stage from Molinaseca to villafranca del Bierzo. And then one potentially horrendous day up to o Cebreiro. I made one solid reservation and it’s for O Cebreiro on 4 June as everything was was solidly booked. Thoughts from those experienced in this stage? I’m usually a walking purist but if I need to bus part of it, which is best way to do it? I’d like to walk up to OCebreiro. Would also like to see Ponferrada castle if possible. Thanks for any advice, much appreciated!

We walked from Villafranca and had booked in at Las Herrerias. We were glad we did as we arrived in time for a late lunch. The walk up to O Cebreiro was not too difficult and we could have walked there easily enough in one go. The most challenging climb the following day was the short but ultra steep incline at Alto de Poio, a few miles before Fonfria.

 

[JulieandPeter]

If you are not in a hurry, I would advise to cancel your reservation and consider taking several days to walk between Molinaseca and O Cebreiro.

You are coming to the end of your walk, Santiago is just around the corner. The walk up to O Cebreiro is lovely and is worth savoring.

Our last walk we took three days to walk from from Villafranca to O Cebreiro. We stayed at our favorite places in Trabadelo, Los Herrerias, and La Laguna; all lovely in their own unique way.

Having said that, if I had to skip something, it would be between Ponferrada and Villafranca. By now you have probably made your decision. Please let us know what you decided.

 

[happypilgrim]

I think I messed up my stages. Following Brierly now after being off stage during the busy sections. Brierly has a stage from Molinaseca to villafranca del Bierzo. And then one potentially horrendous day up to o Cebreiro. I made one solid reservation and it’s for O Cebreiro on 4 June as everything was was solidly booked. Thoughts from those experienced in this stage? I’m usually a walking purist but if I need to bus part of it, which is best way to do it? I’d like to walk up to OCebreiro. Would also like to see Ponferrada castle if possible. Thanks for any advice, much appreciated!

I walked Ponferrada to Villafranca del Bierzo, which was fine.

Then, Villafranca del Bierzo to OCebreiro. Was initally planning to walk only to Las Herrerias, but my body wanted to keep going. Yeah, it's a little challenge to get up the mountain but I had good company (a pilgrim I met at a cafe earlier that day) and we stopped in La Faba for a good tinto and beer break. It felt really great when we got to OCebrierio and I was glad I honored what my body and soul were feeling and kept walking. It's doable.

 

[Purple Backpack]

The climb to O Cebreiro is not horrendous, but actually quite beautiful. Sure, it’s a bit tiring but that’s part of the joy of walking. I’ve done that stage from Villafranca and it’s absolutely doable.

Thanks, appreciate it.

I think I messed up my stages. Following Brierly now after being off stage during the busy sections. Brierly has a stage from Molinaseca to villafranca del Bierzo. And then one potentially horrendous day up to o Cebreiro. I made one solid reservation and it’s for O Cebreiro on 4 June as everything was was solidly booked. Thoughts from those experienced in this stage? I’m usually a walking purist but if I need to bus part of it, which is best way to do it? I’d like to walk up to OCebreiro. Would also like to see Ponferrada castle if possible. Thanks for any advice, much appreciated!

update: Long hot day today from Molinaseca to Villafranca del Bierzo. 19 miles but the made it much worse. Gorgeous through the vineyards, though! Not sure what I’ll do in the morning but I’m looking forward to it before the Sarria Parade!

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Not sure what I’ll do in the morning but I’m looking forward to it before the Sarria Parade!

I like and appreciate your upbeat comment of calling what is usually known as the "conga line"...the Sarria parade!

 

[loohoorn]

I walked from Villafranca to La Luguna, the town just before I Cerbriero, today. It was an amazingly beautiful walk. The la Escuela albergue is fabulous, for it's accomodations, staff and food.

 

[Undermanager]

The walk up is 6kms long, takes about 2 and a half hours and there are cafes along the way. Take your time and you'll be fine. It's not horrendous, just sweaty. Stay in one of the villages at the bottom and set off early.

 

[USMC-Pilgrim]

I think I messed up my stages. Following Brierly now after being off stage during the busy sections. Brierly has a stage from Molinaseca to villafranca del Bierzo. And then one potentially horrendous day up to o Cebreiro. I made one solid reservation and it’s for O Cebreiro on 4 June as everything was was solidly booked. Thoughts from those experienced in this stage? I’m usually a walking purist but if I need to bus part of it, which is best way to do it? I’d like to walk up to OCebreiro. Would also like to see Ponferrada castle if possible. Thanks for any advice, much appreciated!

I stayed at La Faba, it's a bit before O'Cebreiro. Ice cold cerveza, an excellent kitchen and reasonable rate on a private room. Got up early the next morning to catch sunrise at O'C. It was marvelous!

 

[jimmyc]

I was 75 when I walked the CF. I always kept walking days to under 25 klms so Molinaseca, Cacabelos,Vega de Valcarce and then on through O Cebreiro to Santa Maria do Poio.
I dont remember the climb to O C being at all difficult.

 

[Sidknee]

Hi @Purple Backpack have walked the Villafranca del Bierzo to O Cebreiro stage a couple of times. Strava data: Distance 29.63km, Time: 6hrs 2m, Elev gain: 929m.

Last time I walked it was mid September (2022) and there was a festival in VdB, which kept us awake all night.

The walk is flat for the first hour or so, then it gradually rises, before you hit the real climb. Some of the gradients are challenging but they are usually only for a short distance (200 or 300 metres). The climb sections has plenty of switchbacks, which makes the walking a bit easier. Once you break out of the forested area and get to Vega del Valcare the hard work is largely completed. There is about 12km left, which has some cracking views back over where you’ve come from.

If you’re up to it you could/can also hire a horse ride up to Ö Cebreiro (I haven’t done that so will leave for others to comment on that).

In brief, doable yes. Enjoyable and not to be missed.

Buen Camino

 

[Louise Comacchio]

I walked from Trabadelo to Fonfria and unlike others here, this was my hardest day. I was underwhelmed with the walk over the Pyrenees, was it anxious excitement??? It was cool, mid April, that could've helped? The day I walked up to and beyond O Cebreiro was MY hardest day overall mentally and physically. It was a hot day and the longest in distance that I walked. I think it comes down to weather, how you are feeling on the day etc It didn't help me when I got to O Cebreiro only to find bus loads of people in the few bars. I was tired, hungry and thirsty and found myself judging those in the tourist buses, annoyed that I had to line up after them. Not a moment I was proud of. I ended up checking the map and walked on a few kms further where I was the only one in the bar, that and Fonfria and the albergue meal made up for the tough day.

 

[Purple Backpack]

Update: Thanks, everyone for the support and suggestions!! Totally doable but two long hot days, total 38 miles (not km!) for the two days with a lot of elevation. So beautiful!!! Off for a much needed shower and anticipated beer!!

 

[Trekker One]

I paid directly with credit card directly from NZ twice, one in 2019, and the other about 10 days ago.

I think I messed up my stages. Following Brierly now after being off stage during the busy sections. Brierly has a stage from Molinaseca to villafranca del Bierzo. And then one potentially horrendous day up to o Cebreiro. I made one solid reservation and it’s for O Cebreiro on 4 June as everything was was solidly booked. Thoughts from those experienced in this stage? I’m usually a walking purist but if I need to bus part of it, which is best way to do it? I’d like to walk up to OCebreiro. Would also like to see Ponferrada castle if possible. Thanks for any advice, much appreciated!

I have experienced what you term 'horrendous' hiking days, fortunately absolutely none of them have been in Spain, Portugal or anywhere in Europe.
In the Canadian Rockies on the other hand...
The trek up to O'Cebreiro is maybe a 3 or 4 out of 10, so nothing to be alarmed about at all. A very beautiful walk. I was 63 when I last did it and it was totally fine.

 

[davebugg]

I think I messed up my stages. Following Brierly now after being off stage during the busy sections. Brierly has a stage from Molinaseca to villafranca del Bierzo. And then one potentially horrendous day up to o Cebreiro. I made one solid reservation and it’s for O Cebreiro on 4 June as everything was was solidly booked. Thoughts from those experienced in this stage? I’m usually a walking purist but if I need to bus part of it, which is best way to do it? I’d like to walk up to OCebreiro. Would also like to see Ponferrada castle if possible. Thanks for any advice, much appreciated!

I found the stage from Villafranca del Bierzo to O Cebreiro to be very doable if one is reasonably fit. It is no easy walk, but it is not a hugely horrible slog, either.

 

[Jodean]

I really enjoyed my stay at Casa Susi in Trabadelo, then trudged up to Albergue La Escuela which is a fantastic albergue with a great restaurant. That allowed me to continue my climb the next morning for a sunrise walk. It was beautiful. Continued on to Fonfria to another great albergues.

Rode the horse up there 2 years ago which was a unique and fun experience having not been on a horse for 40 years.

 

[isobelmtl]

I think I messed up my stages. Following Brierly now after being off stage during the busy sections. Brierly has a stage from Molinaseca to villafranca del Bierzo. And then one potentially horrendous day up to o Cebreiro. I made one solid reservation and it’s for O Cebreiro on 4 June as everything was was solidly booked. Thoughts from those experienced in this stage? I’m usually a walking purist but if I need to bus part of it, which is best way to do it? I’d like to walk up to OCebreiro. Would also like to see Ponferrada castle if possible. Thanks for any advice, much appreciated!

I rode up on a horse in 2021!rented for €40 which was money well spent for a 73 yr old with an artificial hip. The resource is al paso in las herrerias de valcarce. Email v.vigaray@gmail.com
Think about it