LIVE from the Camino Mid July on the Primitivo

[Peterexpatkiwi]

Greetings all. After multiple minor setbacks I'm finally in Ovideo!
We're talking skyrocketing flight prices, leg injuries (hence serious lack of training), Train cancellations, flight delays..... Nothing new under the sun, frustrating when one follows the other...

But the Camino is calling, and ongoing leg issue or not I'm starting. No idea how far I'll get, and much as I really, really want to complete it as is often said here - I'm going to listen to my body . I've got a booking for tonight in Grado, so it doesn't matter how long it takes me.
Already spotted and introduced myself to some fellow pilgrims on the flight in last night , a young German couple and a lady from Denmark . The Danish lady has been researching for years, but only decided at the beginning of the week to go - went and bought all her gear, flights , and is here! When the Camino calls......
She's a tad nervous so was very pleased to met a fellow pilgrim, we ended up eating dinner together. ( Should have asked @filly for some culinary tips, it was ok, but... . ). I've agreed to wait for her so we can start out together this morning, we'll just have to see how it goes from there. Woke far to earlier despite an excellent hotel ( I'm spoiling myself) . Time to find my first Cafe con leche!

 

[C clearly]

It's good that you've finally made it to the starting line. Take your time, especially the first few days, and you'll make it to the end, wherever that may be. I hope you keep posting here on the same thread as you go. (It is easier for us to follow along on a single thread.) Buen camino!

 

[Peterexpatkiwi]

Yep, that was the idea. I'm now waiting for my fellow pilgrim ( or should I say peregrina) to arrive, STILL without my cafe con leche... Sigh.
I've already been passed by no less than 7 fellow pilgrims (in 12 minutes ),it's going to be interesting to see how many of us there are

 

[dbier]

Buen Camino!
Depending on the nature of your injury, if you find yourself struggling, consider booking lodging at a shorter destination the day ahead and shipping your main pack.
Hoping to follow you in 2 months!

 

[rogersoncharles1951]

Greetings all. After multiple minor setbacks I'm finally in Ovideo!
We're talking skyrocketing flight prices, leg injuries (hence serious lack of training), Train cancellations, flight delays..... Nothing new under the sun, frustrating when one follows the other...

But the Camino is calling, and ongoing leg issue or not I'm starting. No idea how far I'll get, and much as I really, really want to complete it as is often said here - I'm going to listen to my body . I've got a booking for tonight in Grado, so it doesn't matter how long it takes me.
Already spotted and introduced myself to some fellow pilgrims on the flight in last night , a young German couple and a lady from Denmark . The Danish lady has been researching for years, but only decided at the beginning of the week to go - went and bought all her gear, flights , and is here! When the Camino calls......
She's a tad nervous so was very pleased to met a fellow pilgrim, we ended up eating dinner together. ( Should have asked @filly for some culinary tips, it was ok, but... . ). I've agreed to wait for her so we can start out together this morning, we'll just have to see how it goes from there. Woke far to earlier despite an excellent hotel ( I'm spoiling myself) . Time to find my first Cafe con leche!

Go for it you'll not forget it it's a wonderful Camino to do but not easiest but one of loveliest.done it after doing the Del Salvador back to back.was on Camino Frances earlier this year in May but cut it short weather was horrendous going back on 15 th August for 2 weeks.just one thing to remember pain of a blister etc only lasts few days pain of quitting lasts a lifetime.Buen Camino.

 

[Sue127]

Enjoy. Treat your leg kindly. Apart from today, which was supposed to be a rest day (whoops, somehow did 17km exploring), Ive been wearing a knee brace and ankle support all the time, they've been fine (shame about the enormous bluster ) Now at Vilanova de Arousa. Buen camino

 

[Peterexpatkiwi]

Day 1: As we all know, the Camino always seems to have a lesson in store for us somewhere along the line. Says a veteran of one very short Camino!! ( But many, many read thread's...)
Mine today was patience. Something that I'm not very good at.
As mentioned above, I'd agreed to wait for, and start walking with, my new Danish friend. She didn't keep me waiting overlong, but being Saturday many cafe's in her part of town were closed. Eventually found an excellent little bakery right on the Camino, but coffee is not really their thing - they've got one of those ridiculous little capsule machines. But hey, it was hot, contained caffeine, and wasn't dreadful. But not exactly the cafe con leche I'd been looking forward to.
All of this took time. But, we left eventually - only an hour or so after I'd expected.
My companion is a really nice, interesting person, so despite our rather slow pace I agreed to see her through her first day. Much better for my injured leg, after all. Plus, I had booked accommodation in Grado, so time really didn't matter, just that we got there.
What I didn't expect was that all possible eating stops between Oviedo and Paledin, 19,5km later, would be closed. At least by the time we got there. And, without decent food, my companion would slow down even further. We both had snacks with us, so we weren't starving, but she needed a decent break and proper food. We stopped often.
We made it to Paladin around 16.45. Nope, that is not a typo.
The restaurant was of course closed. Fortunately, after further delays, an 'active' discussion between the mother of a Spanish family I'd befriended along the way and the owner, a couple of excellent hot sandwiches appeared.
My companion was encouraged to stay at the Albergue (Villa Palatine )by a very pleasant and experienced German peregrina we'd befriended along the way, so I was free to move on.
I'd love to say I covered the last 6 km to my accommodation in record time, but alas, it was not to be. First, dodgy leg, as previously discussed. Still, I was walking at a comfortable pace, and somewhat faster than before. Stopped to chat for 15 minutes with a friendly Czech/ Dutch couple that had parked their new Camper Van by the river. Right smack on the Camino...
They were curious about why so many people were edging past their van, and why some were giving them odd looks?

A km or so later, I caught up with aforementioned Spanish family. Turns out it's actually a mother and daughter, and a couple of friends. And that dad ( not walking) is an Aussie. We were so busy talking that we missed the turn off after the bridge, and only realised 1km or so later.
Still, just meant that we were stuck with the main road for another 2+ kms.
Eventually made it to my hotel at 19.00. I don't think it's ever taken me that long to cover just 25 kms. Nor have I ever taken so many break's.
Still, on the positive side, I made it, washing et al is done, there's a small supermarket right next door where I was able to purchase a simple dinner and tomorrow's lunch, and I met and conversed with many wonderful people today. (I'm all talked out! ).
Tomorrow - and my cafe con leche - await. Good night!!

 

[VNwalking]

Tortoises inevitably beat hares.

Your leg probably appreciated the pace far more than your mind.

Thanks for sharing here, @Peterexpatkiwi !
And buen onward Camino. I look forward to reading more.

 

[filly]

Greetings all. After multiple minor setbacks I'm finally in Ovideo!
We're talking skyrocketing flight prices, leg injuries (hence serious lack of training), Train cancellations, flight delays..... Nothing new under the sun, frustrating when one follows the other...

But the Camino is calling, and ongoing leg issue or not I'm starting. No idea how far I'll get, and much as I really, really want to complete it as is often said here - I'm going to listen to my body . I've got a booking for tonight in Grado, so it doesn't matter how long it takes me.
Already spotted and introduced myself to some fellow pilgrims on the flight in last night , a young German couple and a lady from Denmark . The Danish lady has been researching for years, but only decided at the beginning of the week to go - went and bought all her gear, flights , and is here! When the Camino calls......
She's a tad nervous so was very pleased to met a fellow pilgrim, we ended up eating dinner together. ( Should have asked @filly for some culinary tips, it was ok, but... . ). I've agreed to wait for her so we can start out together this morning, we'll just have to see how it goes from there. Woke far to earlier despite an excellent hotel ( I'm spoiling myself) . Time to find my first Cafe con leche!

Well.. I do hope you had some pulpo in Oviedo?!? All best for your Camino con peregrina.

 

[trecile]

If you plan to do the Hospitales route I can recommend staying at Alojamiento Los Hospitales. Actually, it's a good place to stay if you decide to go via Pola de Allande. If doing the Hospitales it makes your day a little shorter vs staying in Borres or Samblismo.

 

[David Tallan]

If you plan to do the Hospitales route I can recommend staying at Alojamiento Los Hospitales. Actually, it's a good place to stay if you decide to go via Pola de Allande. If doing the Hospitales it makes your day a little shorter vs staying in Borres or Samblismo.

Although I should say Samblismo is also nice and practically on the Hospitales itself.

 

[ratherbefollowingflechas]

Definitely second the recommendation to stay at the Alojamiento Los Hospitales. Jose and his wife are the best, they have a great dinner and breakfast, and they will make you a sandwich to take on either route. It also allows you flexibility to change your route should the weather be bad. There is a connecting path to the Hospitales route right out there door. It is a steep 1 mile hike but a great way to shorten the day versus starting from Borres or Samblismo. The private room here is fantastic if you want to spoil yourself! Rumor has it that the albergue in Borres is next to a cow farm...

 

[trecile]

The private room here is fantastic if you want to spoil yourself!

I did splurge on the private room - it was fantastic!

 

[Peterexpatkiwi]

Days two and three on the Primitivo.
Sorry I didn't post last night, 1/ no Wi fi, 2/ I was rather tired and 3/ I was having too good an evening!!
Started out after an average nights sleep from Grado, but also after a decent cafe con leche - at last! Overcast and cool, perfect walking weather. Very quickly joined by a young Canadian guy who stuck with me for pretty much of the day. Another complete novice, great guy but exceptionally naive and with such useless footwear (Superlight sandals) that every time the trail turned into gravel he had to go barefoot. Seriously. Still, to his great credit he walked into Salas with me, and I left him at his Albergue. He was talking about quitting altogether, I tried to convince him to bus to Lugo, buy some decent footwear and walk from there.
After another decent cafe con leche I headed off again, detoured as suggested to the waterfall - hmmmm, why does everyone recommend that? Ok, I'm a Kiwi, so maybe I have a different idea of 'waterfall'. Still, it's only a short stroll down and back.
Got into Bodenaya a bit later, met the new owners Alison and Alberto - wonderful people, very pleasant and welcoming. Fantastic dinner, great group of fellow pilgrims. Alison helped a few of us book in to another brand new Donativo called Casa Pascal at El Espina , about 1 1/2 kms past Campiello, then it was off to bed. 32 km and my leg seems to be doing ok!!!

 

[Peterexpatkiwi]

Day 3- . Problem posting last night, perhaps too many using the wifi . It cut me off at day 2, then wouldn't load.
So day three was great, a small group of us left Bodenaya together. Sometimes ahead, sometimes behind, but stopping for coffee etc together . Most are a little slower, but my leg is still far from good so I'm taking it easy, and taking longer breaks. Which meant plenty of time to enjoy some great company, but also much valued peaceful moments too....
Arrived pretty much together at the new Casa Pascal. Isabella very welcoming, big spacious room , pleasant outdoor area. Dinner tasty and plentiful.
Thanks everyone for your suggestions, I didn't see them all until too late. Certainly some aspects could be improved on at Casa Pascal,( the breakfast for example) but she's new, so here's hoping!

 

[VNwalking]

my leg is still far from good

I don't like the sound of that, Peter. Do take care.

detoured as suggested to the waterfall - hmmmm, why does everyone recommend that? Ok, I'm a Kiwi, so maybe I have a different idea of 'waterfall

No doubt.
I'm in your boat. Lived my first 45 years in Polynesia (Hawaii and Aotearoa), and have mostly been a rolling stone since. There's no objective standard of what constitutes a waterfall; usually if I see them on a map and seek them out wherever I happen to be, I'm often seriously underwhelmed. Some of us are spoiled.

 

[Peterexpatkiwi]

Day 4. Hospitales! Cool, misty start, great for walking. Four of us left together after breakfast and pretty much stayed together for the day, much like the day before. Not quite a family yet, but pleasant.
Boy, was that a day! That short few metres heading uphill after the first ruin was nasty. Enjoyed a great break at the first pine Grove, and my crew caught up which was good. Stayed very misty much of the day. Shame to miss the views, but a magical experience nonetheless.
Lunch together at the joining of the trails, and then that short, rough decent to the road and over.
Took our time to Bedusuro , then a very long break. Two fresh OJ's, cafe con leche, and an Aquarius! Other's enjoyed beer. Caught up with a bunch of others from a couple of days ago, so a very convivial time...
An hour or so later headed off, 5km more to La Mesa. Not cheap, but the swimming pool was wonderful and met even more people from earlier on the trail. Great company, but early to bed!!

 

[andonius]

Peter:
I wish you the best Primitivo possible. It's my favourite route and I'm planning to do it again with my wife soon.
When in Grandas de Salime don't miss the lovely and interesting Ethnographic Museum. It's really a must.
¡Buen camino!

 

[peregrina2000]

Alison helped a few of us book in to another brand new Donativo called Casa Pascal at El Espina , about 1 1/2 kms past Campiello,

More information on the new albergue in BobY33’s thread, including phone number for WhatsApping the hospitalera, Silvia.

Sounds like a great Primitivo, @Peterexpatkiwi. Cool and misty is oh so much better than what a lot of Spain is experiencing these days! Buen camino.

 

[Peterexpatkiwi]

When in Grandas de Salime don't miss the lovely and interesting Ethnographic Museum. It's really a must.

Thanks everyone for the good wishes, they're definitely speeding me on my way.

Adonius , you're absolutely right, I'd also consider it a must. Fantastic museum, and at just €1.50 it's likely within every pilgrims budget. But watch the opening hours, they close fairly early.

Day 5. Wonderful day. Good weather, after a decent night's sleep. La Mesa is very well organised, fairly new, and whilst not cheap still cheaper than similar options on the Inglès for example. I still woke too early, but overall pilgrims were fairly considerate so no complaints there.
Beautiful fresh OJ or Blueberry juice, a large slice of toast and jam ( tomato an option) and cafe con leche for breakfast. Again not cheap (€5) but the juice was great!
Again late hitting the trail -8.15 - seems to be pretty much my thing this Camino. Not stressing, loving just walking out the door - and keeping on going. Although I have to say, I'm looking forward to the day when there's no hill's in the near future!
Misty again, especially at the top of the hill, so put my rain cover on so that vehicle's could see me. 5 minutes later, the trail leaves the road.....
The downhill section was moderately rough, but not as bad as I'd expected, so I gradually caught up with people. Once you come within sight of the lake it's absolutely beautiful. Hill or not, I loved this part of the day.
I'm curious about all the abandoned building's on the other side, would I be correct in assuming that they date from the time of the dams construction?
The cafe came at a perfect time. I've never eaten a better tortida. And the cafe con leche Grande!!!!
Plus of course a large fresh OJ - can't seem to get enough this Camino. €7.50 for the lot, very fair.
Grandas de Salime is a pretty little place, good bar, great museum, et al.
Now in Castro. New hospitaliers, ( again a theme this Camino!)a brother and sister, really nice pair. Chores done, waiting for dinner - I'm hungry!!

 

[David Tallan]

Beautiful fresh OJ or Blueberry juice, a large slice of toast and jam ( tomato an option) and cafe con leche for breakfast. Again not cheap (€5) but the juice was great!

I think I stopped for breakfast there on my Camino Primitivo. Blueberries seem to be a local product in that part of the Primitivo.

Although I have to say, I'm looking forward to the day when there's no hill's in the near future!

I hate to break the news but I don't think that day is in your near future. No mountains, maybe. But hills and climbs, for sure.

 

[Peterexpatkiwi]

Day 6, and my leg still aches a lot but we seem to have come to an understanding. It lets me walk, and doesn't hurt too much until the end of the day. In return, I keep the pace slower than usual, and I try and keep the day to around 25 kms. So far so good.
Another beautiful day, misty start which gradually burnt off around 11. So far I don't think we've topped 25 degrees, I'm very, very grateful. The only time I questioned the route was just before A Fonsagrada where it splits. I still haven't downloaded any apps, quite frankly watching others using them I think they distract from the experience. The trail is generally very well marked, with just a couple of questionable places which I always managed to navigate.
Crossed into Galicia today, now in O Piñeiral. Didn't think much of A Fonsagrada, happy to just walk straight through. Looking forward to the restaurant here opening, only had a banana, yogurt and blueberries today so I'm a bit peckish....

 

[andonius]

Peter:
What was your decission entering A Fonsagrada?. Did you took the steep ascent directly into town or the ancient road way?
I think both are hard, but last time I took the new direct climb and promised not to do it ever again...
It's one of the steepest sections of any Camino I've made...
¡Buen Camino!

 

[Peterexpatkiwi]

I went left, no idea if that's the ancient way or not - the other seemed to follow the road? Either way, yep, it was steep! My leg did NOT like it, I had to stop multiple times. But we worked together, and got there in the end.....

 

[dbier]

:::making a mental note between you and David to go right before A Fonsagrada...he mentioned it too

 

[David Tallan]

:::making a mental note between you and David to go right before A Fonsagrada...he mentioned it too

Just be careful of you go right that you don't miss A Fonsegrada entirely (unless that is your intention). It seems that if you go right, along the road, the yellow arrows may soon take you off the road and to somewhere else entirely.

 

[Peterexpatkiwi]

As I understand it, it rejoins the Camino 8 km later, way past everything, so as David says, look out! Or simply take the left - it's really steep, but relatively short - especially compared with what is yet to come.....

 

[Peterexpatkiwi]

Day 7, and I'm sincerely grateful to the weather God's.
Yet another cool, misty start to the day. After a short, pleasant downhill it starts to go up again. Parts are relatively pleasant, but there's also a couple of steep sections. After the Hospital de Montouto it's a really, really long decent, tough on the knees, calves, ankles.. you get the picture. But really lovely too, with some great views. The bar at Paradavella was basic but welcome! Coffee..
I think I might have stayed longer if I knew what was coming. The last climb up to A Lastra was something else again. The ladies of our party had fallen somewhat behind, so my Irish campanion and I felt free to vent our feelings - a very rare occurrence. Short of hiking offtrail in the mountains back home in NZ I don't think I have ever gone up a steeper section. Nasty.
The cafe/ bar at A Lastra was very welcome. Sadly no OJ - which became the theme for everywhere today. Massive Boccadillo, our hostess was a tad upset that I wanted both cheese AND salami in one sandwich, but shared between 2 of us it was excellent! A Fontaneira was closed, so good we'd stocked up.
O Càdavo was disappointing. We left.
Enjoyed the complementaro ( go right where the path splits). Which led us into Castroverde. What a Xunta! Takes an incredibly long time to check in, but @ €8, a practically new Albergue is very welcome indeed. Still coming across new people, and there were 20 of us in O Piñeiral last night, so must be at least 40 - 50 pilgrims on the trail at present.
Off to the bar for Paella - they start serving food at 7.30. Already bought breakfast at the supermarket directly opposite. Not a big town, but friendly!

 

[VNwalking]

Really enjoying this, Peter, and am glad to hear you're taking care of that leg.
Kia kaha, and buen camino!

 

[Peterexpatkiwi]

Day 8, and what a difference a day makes!! Well and truely out of the mountains now. I would say the trail meanders now, no seriously long climbs, no knee busting decents.
My entire crew left well before me this morning. In fact when I left the entire Albergue was empty!! I realised about 7.30 that everyone had gone ( I was breakfasting in the dining room on provisions from the supermarket). The first few left at 5am ( my crew amongst them, goodbyes were said the night prior- long story ) - and the rest all seemed to take it as a hint to start moving too. One disturbed the next, and so on.
I took the opportunity to make a video of the premises - no staff yet either. Saw my first two pilgrims straight out of the door, they'd started an hour or two back at the previous town. Guided them to coffee and hit the trail . Had an hour, perhaps more, before I saw anyone else. Bliss!
Saw a few new faces today, caught up with a few old. In the end connected with an American couple, great people, so spent the last hour or so in enjoyable company. We were supposed to meet for dinner tonight, but when they messaged me I accidentally blocked them. More bad language, and dinner alone. ( The remanants of my crew invited me - the rest are gone, but 17.45 was way too early).
No pilgrims menu tonight. No Michelin stars, but definitely better than pilgrim fare.... . Mind you, the pilgrims menu at one place included grilled Sea Bass, so who am I to judge?
Camped out in the old part of town, took an apartment - wasteful for one, but twill be enjoyed nonetheless. I had booked a simple hotel room, but had failed to check the location. 1,6kms out of town when I'm staying 2 night's and intend popping in and out as the mood suits me just didn't work. So I hunted around and found something inside the walls.
Hoping to sleep in tomorrow, and decide on whether or not to take the Camino Verde. Any suggestions welcomed!

 

[ratherbefollowingflechas]

Take the Verde!!!

 

[VNwalking]

decide on whether or not to take the Camino Verde. Any suggestions welcomed!

Why would you not?

 

[Peterexpatkiwi]

Why would you not?

Purely because I've read multiple comments that the marking for day 2 is not that great. I don't use any trail apps.
It did occur to me to that worse case I could use google maps to get me to the monastery.

 

[Peterexpatkiwi]

Day 9, and talk about being lazy! Today is definitely a zero. Had a really late breakfast around 8.30/9, strolled around the wall - strolled, please note, not walked!! Must be the slowest I've covered 2km in many a day. All that was missing was a lovely lady on my arm....

I'm fascinated by how many buildings are in ruins here. Every town has a few, but Lugo.... it seems that the ratio here is extraordinarly high. And that in the immediate vicinity of the walls, where I would have thought property prices would be highest. Does anyone know why?

Now back in my apartment, an early siesta, simple yoghurt and 1/2 a packet of dark chocolate digestives later and I'm ready to explore town further. I feel an OJ calling me, and perhaps another cafe con leche.....

Dinner tonight might just have to be pulpo, I'm only metres away from O Candil... . Unless our resident culinary expert has another suggestion? @filly ?

 

[peregrina2000]

Purely because I've read multiple comments that the marking for day 2 is not that great. I don't use any trail apps.
It did occur to me to that worse case I could use google maps to get me to the monastery.

I walked the Camiño Verde but missed the initial arrows. I got back on it when I detoured off the regular Primitivo to visit Santa Eulalia (the Camiño Verde has an option that goes right by there). I had a terrible time getting to Friol from there (having missed what looks like the nicest part along the river anyway). But I made it.

The route from Friol was perfectly well marked, no problems at all. It winds up joining the Norte on the road about 8 (?) kms before Sobrado dos Monxes, and I didn’t think the day from Friol to Sobrado was any nicer than what you would see going into Sobrado from the “regular” Norte.

The day out of Lugo has had major improvements to the wooden path system, so I would probably try it again if I get back there. I didn’t think Friol was much of a great place to stop, though, in contrast to my earlier stays in San Román, Ponte Ferreira, and A Nave in Ponte Ferreira.

But Santa Eulualia is a must stop, at least if you have any interest at all in Roman/ancient architecture!

 

[ratherbefollowingflechas]

Y

There are only 2 places that we scratched our heads about. Okay - maybe 3ish. The first place is just as you are leaving Friol. Follow the path as it curves to the right. On your left hand side is some sort of open air museum of old buildings. The path will dead end with a mill in front of you, a bridge to right, and a sign that is (supposedly for the entrance to the museum} to the left. Go left. You will walk up the hill a bit and when that road ends, go right. Now that you are out of town, you should be good for a while. When you get to the farmstead with 5 big barky dogs and a smaller fluffy one, walk for about 200m and then you will take a right. Do not go left right after the dogs...

Easy Peasy. Everything else was well marked. Stay at Casa Benigno in Friol, if you can.

Buen Camino!

 

[ratherbefollowingflechas]

Day 1 to Friol has one issue. When you get to the utility pole with at least 7 arrows plastered on it, both yellow and green, pointing both left and right, go right...

 

[Peterexpatkiwi]

24/7 On the Verde: Yep, past that one a little while back, just stopping now for lunch. Thanks to the helpful photo on the Verde thread I had no problem finding the beginning of the trail, one issue where the arrows point straight ahead (shortly after you enter the woods ) - and really you should probably go downhill. But no worries, because the two trails meet again later. Apart from a very short piece immediately after the watermill the trail is very clear, ( just becoming overgrown with bracken, but still very obvious) and I've had no issues at all finding the arrows. You do have to keep your head on swivel though! And accept that a left/ right pointing arrow generally means in 20 metres or so - not right away. At that point, it generally pays to look down, because the arrows will be on the trail!
The river section was beautiful.
My biggest challenge was in the first km, convincing three separate old ladies that I was going the right way. !!!
Right, enough chatting, the trail beckons....

 

[Peterexpatkiwi]

Day 10 continued:
Although I'm actually wondering if I should start a separate thread, because let's face it, I'm not on the Primitivo anymore am I. Although it is touted as an alternative.
Shortly after the post above I hit an area where they've recently clear-cut. An arrow just before gave the impression I should go straight, but the Forresters have made a bit of a mess, and whilst there was a very obvious trail left, and a not as obvious one to the right, straight ahead wasn't so clear. I scouted a little - no arrows to left or right. Eventually under a pile of sawdust I found a big rock with a faded arrow - straight. 10metres later the trail was obvious again. Only took 5 minutes, and rather safe than sorry!
I took off my pack and spent 15 minutes clearing the trail, there wasn't much junk, just enough to be confusing. Satisfaction achieved, I walked on. Somehow missed the way into town, because I ended up walking in on the road through the industrial area, apparently I should have followed the stream. I guess my head was swiveled out by that point - or I was being too complaciant . No worries, Google Maps got me to Casa Benigno - I'd emailed last night. €30 for pilgrims. DON'T use Booking.com.
Unfortunately can't eat here, kitchen closed at 16.00 and tomorrow they open late (9.30 - I'll be long gone. Normally breakfast here is at 7.00 apparently)

Question for anyone that has actually walked this - is it really only 25 km? Because it took me a good hour more than normal, and I was seriously ready for a cold cider when I got in, a first on this Camino!
Right, chores done, time to explore! Until tomorrow.

 

[ratherbefollowingflechas]

We were located about 1k from town and that place was just shy of 26k, so I agree with you that it was more like 27k overall. There is a great store right up the hill from where you are staying to stock up on tomorrows supplies. Be sure that you do because there is NOTHING along the way. We stayed at the Via Sacre in Sobrado because the albergue was full. Book direct. Great dinner at the restaurant to its right and a fantastic breakfast at the hotel itself. Laundromat is right across the street....

Buen Camino!

 

[Peterexpatkiwi]

Day 11. Walked to Sabrado today. After a cafe con leche at the only place open in town. Which was very good, I hasten to add!
As commented above by @peregrina2000, the trail out of town proved to be well marked. Actually, decidedly better than the trail in, overall. Didn't stop me making a couple of errors of course. The first, shortly after you leave town, the trail hits the road, goes uphill 20 metres or so, and then does a sharp right. Which I missed.
After a few hundred metres I felt something was amiss, and I realised I hadn't seen any more arrows. Not that there are many, but still. So rather than muck around, I headed back to the last arrow. Good call.
A very pleasant day, lot's of wandering back country lane's and farming access roads - some of which were barely worthy of the name. Saw a handful of farmers, including one younger bloke with one of those huge dogs. Friendly bloke, and the dog was more than ok once introduced. I'm just seriously glad the farmer was with him!!
An hour or two in caught up with two Dutch ladies ( mother and daughter) that I'd spotted in the restaurant last night ( they were well dressed, but clearly not locals). Saw them again later too . Incidentally, they confirmed that according to their guide ( very comprehensive guide to the Primitivo and variants) that yesterday was 28 KMs. And they did 35, having gotten lost several times.
A little later I had my one and only disagreement with a dog. Young Alsatian, sitting practically in the middle of the road. Pretty much ignored me when I walked past, but I paused to take a drink about 15 metres later. Clearly to close to home for this youngster. He was after me like a shot. Fortunately barking, so I had time to turn around and fend him off. I've played 'attack ' a lot with Alsatians as a teenager, and this dog wasn't in full attack mode / really aggressive, but was still lunging/ jumping at me. Not as worried about him, but one of those b. Large dogs appeared to see what all the fuss was about. Fortunately, he was more looking at the youngster with a 'What are you up to?' expression than interested in me. After a hard rap on the nose youngster decided to back off, so I backed away too and both parties were happy. No more issues with dogs at all.
But I did get to enjoy plenty of trail food ( blackberries) !!
Towards the end of the trail, there's a gate on the left, onto the road. Big crosses on the trees, so I searched for, and found, an arrow a little further straight ahead.
If you're following this, ignore the crosses and go through the gate!!! I later found that that takes you along little back country lane's further down the Norte, missing a large chunk of the main road. But I followed the 'official' Verde.
Right smack at the end, beside a cattle stop there's a crooked arrow, generally meaning turn soon. BUT on the fence, three posts in a row had arrows pointing left. WHY????
Naturally, after a successful day following arrows, I went left. 500 or so metres later the path veared - back in the direction we'd come. No arrows. I did a U turn, walked back to the cattle stop, crossed, and sure enough 30 metres later hit the main road, and the Norte.
A little later I caught up with the Dutch ladies again, and we had coffee at the bar as you walk into town. Along with about 20 other pilgrims, who were looking at us with ' who the heck are you,? expressions . No OJ again!!
The trail from there on is pretty typical of Galacia I'd say, at least in my limited experience. Very enjoyable, super easy to follow.
Got to Sabrado, went to check into the Monastery. Well, as I mentioned earlier - day 1? I think this Camino is trying to teach me patience. 1 hour later, I failed the lesson. When I arrived there were only around 20 pilgrims ahead of me in line, and they were letting us in 6 at a time to check in. An hour later there were still 12. I blew my budget rather than blow my stack! Checked into a place just 50metres away, for €48. (6 nights in the Albergue). Beautiful room/ bathroom etc. One draw back - I overlook the square. And it's St James day, so they're celebrating, again. Some people seek these events, not I. They find me. Every. Darn. Time.....
Yes, I'm a GOM. Especially when I can't get enough sleep!!
Oh, and did I mention that after doing my chores I thought I deserved a siesta. This is Spain, after all. Unfortunately, the local handyman had finished his siesta, and started work. Here. In my guesthouse. With Powertools.
I'm still tired....
Heading out for a snack ( I was definitely NOT short of food today. )
Then I need to find that info about the Norte variant that drops me into Santiago by the airport...

 

[falconbrother]

I love this thread. Thanks!! BTW.. We're going next June. A few months ago I ruptured my right quadricep tendon and it required surgery and PT. I'm back to walking a lot but, slower than I used to be. Pain has become something I'm accustomed too at this juncture. Good for you man!!! Go get it.

 

[Peterexpatkiwi]

I'm back to walking a lot but, slower than I used to be.

Ease into it! You've got nearly a year. My leg was ok earlier this year when I did the Inglès. The chance to walk now came up unexpectedly, and I wasn't training at the time. I thought I was fine, pushed the training, and injured myself. I consider myself very fortunate to be able to walk, but it hurts every day.

 

[Peterexpatkiwi]

Day 12, and after writing the above I'm going to take my own advice, and walk into Santiago slowly. So only 22 km today, which, considering the terrain, is going to be pretty much like a holiday. But with more road walking than I prefer.
The chance to reflect is a wonderful thing. Earlier this year I was easily capable of longer days, I'm positive I could have comfortably walked into Santiago in 12 days, perhaps less. Today I just decided to stretch it out to 14. Maybe I am learning patience after all!
As many have commented, it's not a race.

Time to seek a cafe con leche ( or two..)

 

[Peterexpatkiwi]

Day 12 continued.
I got an OJ!! And a reasonable cafe con leche. I also got a bit emotional - New Zealand suddenly appeared on the bars TV - apparently we're hosting some sporting event or other? Any way, it's been 5 years since I was last home. Hit me hard.
The walk:
A very cruisey day indeed. After my super late start I practically strolled the first couple of kms. Eventually caught up to an older chap from the USA, and slowed down even further for the next 3kms or so. Enjoyed chatting with him, but eventually left him when he decided to take a break. Stretched out a bit for the next km or two, until I found a bar. No OJ. Got a nice cold Aquarius, so not a disaster. The next part was predominantly on the road. Stopped at a couple more bars looking for tortida, no luck, so moved on each time. Eventually, after the turnoff I got a yes. No OJ. He asked for my understanding - it was a fiesta the day before, he'd run out. The tortida when it came was fresh. As was the bread. Three
older locals rolled in not long after me, and ordered the same, clearly he's known for a good tortida.
The rest of the day was pretty uneventful - just solid road walking. I'm on the variant. Quiet, but rough on my feet. Stopped at the little church, as did three young Spanish ladies I'd passed earlier. Expected to see them here later, at Twin Pines, but there's no one else here. A six bed guesthouse (2 triple rooms) completely to myself. The communal dinner is going to be a bit odd!!
Sitting out in the garden in a lounger, sun shining , cold glass of wine at hand, with only the breeze for company. I've paid a lot more than €22 for a lot less!!!

 

[MethaV]

Greetings all. After multiple minor setbacks I'm finally in Ovideo!
We're talking skyrocketing flight prices, leg injuries (hence serious lack of training), Train cancellations, flight delays..... Nothing new under the sun, frustrating when one follows the other...

But the Camino is calling, and ongoing leg issue or not I'm starting. No idea how far I'll get, and much as I really, really want to complete it as is often said here - I'm going to listen to my body . I've got a booking for tonight in Grado, so it doesn't matter how long it takes me.
Already spotted and introduced myself to some fellow pilgrims on the flight in last night , a young German couple and a lady from Denmark . The Danish lady has been researching for years, but only decided at the beginning of the week to go - went and bought all her gear, flights , and is here! When the Camino calls......
She's a tad nervous so was very pleased to met a fellow pilgrim, we ended up eating dinner together. ( Should have asked @filly for some culinary tips, it was ok, but... . ). I've agreed to wait for her so we can start out together this morning, we'll just have to see how it goes from there. Woke far to earlier despite an excellent hotel ( I'm spoiling myself) . Time to find my first Cafe con leche!

I'm planning to do the Primitivo this September, walking from Oviedo to Santiago and then to Finisterre. I only have 23 days to walk after finishing a week's work in the SJPP pilgrim office.
It would be nice to hear about your experiences.
Buen Camino.
Maggi

 

[Peterexpatkiwi]

Hi Maggi. If all of the above hasn't bored you, you're welcome to message me directly. Assume you will only arrive in Santiago shortly before you walk, I fly out on the 30th July.

Good on you for volunteering!!

I'll also be putting a few videos up on YouTube, (sorry all, but yes I'm one of 'those' people) but at the speed I edit you'll have finished before I finish the series!!
Peter

 

[ratherbefollowingflechas]

Today was a tough road walk, if I remember correctly. Tomorrow is better in that there is an actual service road that parallels the highway, so the trucks aren't ripping by 3 feet away. The Twin Pines is the only show in town, so if there are others out there, they should roll in. Had serious mixed feelings about the place you are staying. Overall, it is a lovely place, but you will be charged for everything, including wine with dinner. Breakfast was super grim and is listed exactly on the fridge. Plain white bread, warm juice, coffee without milk or sugar, and measured to be one cup per person. The juice is warm because they lock the refrigerator overnight - which is what left the bad taste in my mouth... The total lack of trust that pilgrims would steal from them. You will also not get your sello until after dinner and you have settled your bill...
The garden is a lovely place to relax while your laundry is drying for sure and maybe the owners have changed their ways.

There is an option for food tomorrow, if it is open, but it is easy to miss as the path leaves the road for an elbow to cross an old Roman bridge. As you regain the road, look behind you and you will catch the Tabac sign. Place is called Estanco Bar Suarez and the lady made us a fantastic sandwich and the beers were lovely. I believe there was a small grocery store on the other side of the bar..

Buen Camino

 

[Peterexpatkiwi]

As you regain the road, look behind you and you will catch the Tabac sign. Place is called Estanco Bar Suarez and the lady made us a fantastic sandwich

Great tip, thanks!
Yes, she wanted to give me the sello after dinner, but left it out on the bench....
The garden was great , practically fell asleep in the sun. I'm still alone, guess the girls walked on or are camping. Unless there is something else nearby? Thought I saw a sign a km or two back.
I'll let you know about breakfast!

 

[Peterexpatkiwi]

I really don't want to walk into Santiago tomorrow, any suggestions anyone? I see
O Pedrouzo is 15 km out, making for two very short days. If there, any favourite Albergue/ cheap hotel?
If not O P , where?

 

[trecile]

I really don't want to walk into Santiago tomorrow, any suggestions anyone? I see
O Pedrouzo is 15 km out, making for two very short days. If there, any favourite Albergue/ cheap hotel?
If not O P , where?

If you want an off the beaten path place I can recommend Albergue Rural Astrar. It's 700 meters off the Camino at Santa Irene. I stayed there last month, and there were only 6 of us. There's a restaurant out on the road, or the owner will drive you to a restaurant or go pick up pizza for you. There is also a kitchen that you can use. He has beer and wine available for purchase.
When leaving in the morning you don't have to backtrack - there is a road that will take you to the Camino.

Albergue Rural Astrar

Albergue Rural Astrar - Santa Irene - Astrar - O Pino - A Coruña. Sitio ideal para el descanso de los Peregrinos del Camino de Santiago, antes de llegar a Compostela. +34 690105299 - albergueruralastrar@gmail.com

albergueruralastrar.com

 

[ratherbefollowingflechas]

We pulled up just after Lavacolla in Villamaior at the Casa de Amancio. Lovely private room. Just over 5.5 miles to the Cathedral from there, and the big climb is behind you... Let's you roll into Santiago before the crowd.

 

[ratherbefollowingflechas]

From where you are, it is an easy well marked route that will drop you onto the road just past Lavacolla where you will cross over the highway to meet the masses on the Frances. Good Luck!

 

[andonius]

I also got a bit emotional - New Zealand suddenly appeared on the bars TV - apparently we're hosting some sporting event or other? Any way, it's been 5 years since I was last home.

Peter:
The sporting event you saw is the Women's Soccer World cup, which takes place in NZ these days.
Yesterday Spain beated Zambia 5-0 and that's surely what you saw.
Women's soccer is becoming more and more popular in Spain, as we have a great team which is one of the favourites to win the Cup.
¡Buen camino!

 

[Peterexpatkiwi]

Day 13, and what a start... But I'll get to that.
Another very late start, checked out punctually at 8.30 as requested.
It's official, I am King of the Mist !!
Yep, for the umpteenth day another cool, misty start. Didn't see a soul for the first hour, then a jogger passed me - with a Camino shell on his bag!! He confirmed ( shouted conversation) that he's jogging to Santiago. And I thought I'd seen it all...
2 hours in, and I get a call from my son back in Germany. ' Dad, you've just got a message from last night's accommodation - you left your German ID and your credit card behind '.
Ohhhh bugger!!
35 years of experience and I make a rookie mistake like that. I'd never taken it out, BUT as I was alone I'd taken my money belt off overnight, and must have left it a little bit open when I accessed cash for today.
The Twin Pines owner is kindly driving it to me now. A taxi - if I could find one - would be €20 + , so I offered him €30. A small price to pay. And thank goodness for location sharing on WhatsApp! ( Which I just took a crash course in how to use - extremely easy as it turns out!)
So now I'm waiting....
I did say I had time to spare today, didn't I!!!

 

[David Tallan]

I really don't want to walk into Santiago tomorrow, any suggestions anyone? I see
O Pedrouzo is 15 km out, making for two very short days. If there, any favourite Albergue/ cheap hotel?
If not O P , where?

Stopping at Lavacolla worked well for me.

 

[andonius]

I usually stop at O Pedrouzo, Pension Residencial Platas.

 

[Peterexpatkiwi]

Breakfast was super grim and is listed exactly on the fridge. Plain white bread, warm juice, coffee without milk or sugar, and measured to be one cup per person. The juice is warm because they lock the refrigerator overnight - which is what left the bad taste in my mouth... The total lack of trust that pilgrims would steal from them. You will also not get your sello until after dinner and you have settled your bill...

Forgot - said I'd update you -
Hasn't changed much. Fridge not locked - but anything remotely tempting removed overnight ( beer, Coke , which I told her I don't drink - wine, which I do, but even in my youth not for breakfast!!) .
Full bottle of juice, coffee machine set for two cups. Milk also in fridge. No microwave to heat it, but I survived. Better than no coffee! Especially as so far the only bar ( mentioned above, thanks) closed.
Four slices grim white bread, jam packets and margarine . Poor fare, but better than no fare!
Not as good as my current apple and dark chocolate though... Sadly, my last. Still have (home dried) bananas, kiwifruit and apple, plus a few crackers and biscuits ( chocolate of course) . I won't starve....

 

[Peterexpatkiwi]

Day 13, and to all intents and purposes my Camino is at an end. By the time I was ready to stop it turned out I'd already walked past the excellent suggestions above. Don't know how, but I did. I'm currently in the soul-less, dreaded Monte do gozo or whatever it's called. The cafeteria is to be avoided at all costs. Not the staffs fault - they're great! The bar is marginally better, but a lot noisier.
So far I have a room to myself.

Tomorrow I'll walk the last 4 km. And I don't want to stop. My leg is finally ( mostly) behaving itself. Yes, it still hurts , but less each day.
I like the solitude ( when I get it, like today) , and the wonderful people, when I don't. And I like walking....
But my other reality is calling.

One little funny...
Came into Santiso, stopped and had an excellent cafe con leche. Thought I understood the lady there to say, just walk straight down the road and you'll rejoin the Camino...
Hmmmm. Well, sort of. Except that it's on the opposite side of the motorway into Santiago. And the only way to it is via an Overbridge, way in the distance, in the wrong direction...
So what does any self respecting (idiot) individual do? Walk along the motorway in the v shaped drain, and then when he finds a bridge, pack's away his poles so he can climb up the extremely rough, very steep concrete walls, using the metal rods sticking out as support. And miscellaneous brush when the rods ran out. Hoping like hell that he doesn't slip, because if he does, it's going to hurt. A lot!!
Well, I'm not writing this from the hospital, so yep, I made it.
Note to self : I'm not 20 years old anymore. Nor am I a mountain climber...


Good bye all, & thanks for the support and advice. Until the next Camino!

 

[Sue127]

I've really enjoyed following your adventures; thanks for sharing

 

[WestKirsty]

Oh my! That's a way to add a little adrenaline to the last day!

Glad you made it safely and thank you for posting!

 

[ratherbefollowingflechas]

Congratulations!!! I Just want to send a very heartfelt thank you for allowing us to re-live our Camino Primitivo vicariously through your walk.. Looking forward to your compilation in the future. Best wishes for many more Buen Caminos!!!

 

[Telelama]

'll also be putting a few videos up on YouTube, (sorry all, but yes I'm one of 'those' people) but at the speed I edit you'll have finished before I finish the series!!

Okay Peter, when are we going to see your Primitivo videos? We enjoyed your Ingles videos, so we're waiting...

 

[Peterexpatkiwi]

Okay Peter, when are we going to see your Primitivo videos? We enjoyed your Ingles videos, so we're waiting...

Sorry, life kinda got in the way. Glad you liked the Inglés videos, I’m now working on the Primitivo series. My son is heading to the UK for two weeks so I hope to start posting within the week.

 

[filly]

Day 9, and talk about being lazy! Today is definitely a zero. Had a really late breakfast around 8.30/9, strolled around the wall - strolled, please note, not walked!! Must be the slowest I've covered 2km in many a day. All that was missing was a lovely lady on my arm....

I'm fascinated by how many buildings are in ruins here. Every town has a few, but Lugo.... it seems that the ratio here is extraordinarly high. And that in the immediate vicinity of the walls, where I would have thought property prices would be highest. Does anyone know why?

Now back in my apartment, an early siesta, simple yoghurt and 1/2 a packet of dark chocolate digestives later and I'm ready to explore town further. I feel an OJ calling me, and perhaps another cafe con leche.....

Dinner tonight might just have to be pulpo, I'm only metres away from O Candil... . Unless our resident culinary expert has another suggestion? @filly ?

Sorry not to have seen this earlier Mr Kiwi! I hiked the Primitivo years ago.. and arrived in Lugo on one of those memorable Roman ‘weekends’! Madly fab-u-lous… Currently planning my Sagunto for mid ‘24, with accommodation difficulties for last three days before reaching Soria.