I certainly ditto everything about Casa Fernanda. Call 1-2-3 days ahead for a reservation, otherwise you may be out of luck. Number 2 on my parade of hit albergues is O Ninho in Rubiaes. Walk past the public albergue a few hundred meters. It’s on the right side of the highway. I made a reservation, but didn’t really need one that day. I looked back in my 2015 Camino journal for the following.
“The albergue ("The Nest") is run by a 35 year old, single woman, Marlene. "Mama" cooks dinner and we all eat family style. This albergue is almost on par with Fernanda's in terms of hospitality and experience. A definite #2.
This is a funny story. I don't remember how the subject of music came up, but Marlene (or Mama?) went next door and got the neighbor to come in and play his accordion. It was very entertaining while we ate and Mama even started dancing a little jig. I don't know if this was a traditional Portuguese dance step or not. It was entertaining regardless. You couldn't tell if the man enjoyed his performance or if he was being forced. Maybe he was just shy playing in front of strangers.
So he played and we listened. It was a simple song, maybe one verse and one chorus repeated in different combinations. Over and over. And finally the song ended. We applauded with enthusiasm. After a moment he started playing again. It was the same song. The same verse and chorus repeated. Over and over. The second time we applauded again - slightly less than before. Then he played the same song again. Over and over. He must only know that one song! (but he knows it well) He played it 5-6 times. Each time our applause was less and less. He never changed his expression - I still don't know if he enjoyed himself. But it's a wonderful memory for those of us who were there. I don't watch the video anymore because when I do, that stupid little song stays in my head for several days.”
Another good albergue is in Agueda. It wasn’t exactly ON the Camino, but in town. I was walking with two others.
“I doubt if I would have been able to find the albergue today on my own. From where the road comes into town, you have to go up a really long (1-2 km) hill to get there. But it's real nice and next to a large super market. The hosts even held a little reception with pastries, wine, and port.”