LIVE from the Camino Luka on the Sanabrés

[Luka]

My first walking day will be on Tuesday, but because I am now still in the possession of my laptop I thought it would be handy to start this thread already. I landed on Asturias airport on Saturday evening after a short family visit in the Netherlands and since then I have been Camino hopping by car...

I spent the first night in hotel restaurante Canero on the Norte, just 30 minutes from the airport. Traditional hostal, friendly people. I saw about 7 peregrin@s, but there could have been more, as I haven't stayed in the albergue. This morning I took the chance to visit Cabo Busto and walk around a bit on the cliffs and to the lighthouse. Then started roadtripping via Lugo to A Pobra do Brollón on the Invierno, where I am staying tonight in the wonderful albergue municipal. Recommended! I am now enjoying one of the (very) local bottles of wine they sell here. We are 6 here tonight. It looks like I am the only foreigner and definitely the only one with a trolley case .... (I was wrong, there is an Italian couple here, who walked from Bayonne: Baztan - Francés - Invierno )

Tomorrow morning I'll take the route touristique to Verín. I'll leave my car there, take my backpack out and walk to the parador. I decided to start my Camino well On Tuesday I'll walk from Verín to Laza to start my Camino Sanabrés. Will try to post updates here

 

[VNwalking]

Oh boy oh boy! Looking forward, @Luka!
Buen camino, and enjoy the Invierno tapas course - hoping the main course from Verin is a joy.

 

[Bonitatime]

Just finished Ourense to Santiago de Compostela. You will have a great walk

 

[Lindsay53]

Looking forward to your reports Luka. Buen Camino!

 

[chinacat]

Buen Camino, Luka!!
Hope you can manage to post your updates

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Hi Luka, I am sitting on the train to Segovia, having just completed the Sanabres two days ago. I will look forward to your reports as you go along the way!

 

[LTfit]

Buen Camino Luka! Look forward to hearing about your walk. I'll be back on the Plata/Sanabrés at the end of June after 10 years! It will be interesting to see if there have been any changes.

 

[WalkingInGers]

Luka: looking forward to your daily comments. Buen Camino.

 

[Luka]

Hi Luka, I am sitting on the train to Segovia, having just completed the Sanabres two days ago. I will look forward to your reports as you go along the way!

Enjoy Segovia! Loved reading your reports

 

[Luka]

Greetings from the Parador in Verín! What a treat. It is my first time and probably not my last.

But... I also loved the albergue in A Pobra do Brollón with wonderful hospitalera Ana! She insisted on making us all coffee in the morning. We were served like in a restaurant.

The Parador put the first stamp in my credencial, so I am ready to go. Can't wait! No, not true. I am enjoying the wine from A Pobra do Brollón in my beautiful Parador room right now and it is raining outside. The Camino can wait

 

[J Willhaus]

Did you sign up for for the Parador breakfast? Always pretty grand...

 

[Luka]

Did you sign up for for the Parador breakfast? Always pretty grand...

I didn't plan to as I wanted to leave a bit early. But I am getting it for free because I became friend of the Paradores, so couldn't refuse

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Such a gorgeous room, Luka! Enjoy it to the fullest! Hopefully the rain will stop before tomorrow.

 

[chook]

Thanks for the prospect of ‘walking’ with you - covered this route 8 years ago and will rediscover it in October, your updates will induce excitement in advance!
Buen camino!

 

[ward4e]

Buen Camino!

 

[Luka]

Day 1: Verín - Laza (21)

A chilly and rainy start. Drizzle and showers all day and I don't think it got any warmer than 15 degrees celsius. But... my new rain poncho passed the test!

After a nice start around the castle (which I explored yesterday evening), the first stretch was on a quiet asphalt road passing rather ugly villages without anything open. But then it got better with mostly forest paths. All in all I would say this stage is recommendable (however A Gudiña - Laza is most likely more beautiful).

I think we are about 12 in the albergue. Nicely divided by the protección civil, with only the lower bunks occupied and apparently males and females separated. It is a grey bunch. I am 50 and it looks like I am the youngest here. I had to laugh when I saw the glass shower doors. Would that be the Xunta way to keep them short?

 

[J Willhaus]

At least there is a door...some places there are none and no curtain either.

 

[Luka]

At least there is a door...some places there are none and no curtain either.

Yes, I saw those too. I have no problem at all with open showers, as long as males and females are separated, but I think I am a minority.

 

[J Willhaus]

Yes, I saw those too. I have no problem at all with open showers, as long as males and females are separated, but I think I am a minority.

It really bothered some of my university students last winter to the point where they would not shower in places without doors.

 

[Peterexpatkiwi]

It really bothered some of my university students last winter to the point where they would not shower in places without doors.

Classic example of a cultural difference. Many European cultures are far more relaxed about nudity.

Edited to add: although when you consider how multicultural the camino is it would be nice if the Albergue providers took note of other cultures preferences.

 

[ward4e]

Day 1: Verín - Laza (21)

A chilly and rainy start. Drizzle and showers all day and I don't think it got any warmer than 15 degrees celsius. But... my new rain poncho passed the test!

After a nice start around the castle (which I explored yesterday evening), the first stretch was on a quiet asphalt road passing rather ugly villages without anything open. But then it got better with mostly forest paths. All in all I would say this stage is recommendable (however A Gudiña - Laza is most likely more beautiful).

I think we are about 12 in the albergue. Nicely divided by the protección civil, with only the lower bunks occupied and apparently males and females separated. It is a grey bunch. I am 50 and it looks like I am the youngest here. I had to laugh when I saw the glass shower doors. Would that be the Xunta way to keep them short?

12 is a good number to pick and choose to form a walk family. You may see them or not for days and then catch up!

Also don’t discount those seniors! nor underestimate them. I was one of the youngest at a babyish 42 but I was also the one being passed over hills or at rivers because I was tired. Plus you had to be in awe of a bunch of old mates toasting the sun with café con leche and a round of Hierbas!

I aspire to be 80+ and walking a way in thier way! doing the exactly same thing!

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Also don’t discount those seniors! nor underestimate them.

And don't forget that in our own heads many of us seniors think we are much younger than we are, and often can be good company to those younger than ourselves.

 

[Luka]

12 is a good number to pick and choose to form a walk family. You may see them or not for days and then catch up!

Also don’t discount those seniors! nor underestimate them. I was one of the youngest at a babyish 42 but I was also the one being passed over hills or at rivers because I was tired. Plus you had to be in awe of a bunch of old mates toasting the sun with café con leche and a round of Hierbas!

I aspire to be 80+ and walking a way in thier way! doing the exactly same thing!

O no, don't get me wrong, it is a great bunch! Some are incredibly fit and to be honest I find them a bit more social and considerate than the (real) young ones. Generally speaking of course.

 

[Luka]

Laza - Vilar de Barrio (22)

I have been questioning the distances on Gronze before, but about this stage I am pretty sure: 19,2 according to Gronze, 22,3 according to my tracking on Wikiloc and Relive, and according to a signpost in Laza. From Xunta albergue to Xunta albergue that is.

Another cloudy, chilly day with lots of scattered showers. Apart from the first couple of kilometers along the road, it is a beautiful stage though.

This stage is where I found my Waterloo last summer because of a long lasting Achilles tendons injury. I took a restday in Ourense, bussed back to Albergueria to do a very short stage to Vilar the next day (7,5 km). I limped into Vilar, knowing my Camino was over.

It felt good to be back at Roberto's place in Alberguería in better conditions!



Of the 12 pilgrims in Laza 8 decided to walk to Vilar today. They are all familiar faces by now. The Xunta albergue is good, with quite a bit of privacy. Because of all the glass it becomes an oven in summer, but hey, it is 10 degrees outside now.

I am also a fan of Bistro Don Manuel now, @Camino Chrissy! He made me (vegetarian) something to eat at 16.30h for a very reasonable price

 

[dougfitz]

Buen camino @Luka. I will be following your pilgrimage with interest.

 

[Luka]

For Roberto by the way it seems pretty problematic the albergue in Campobecerros closed. Pilgrims staying in his albergue used to walk Campobecerros - Alberguería...

 

[Luka]

Vilar de Barrio - Xunqueira de Ambía (15)

A short stage. But with this cold and rainy weather that wasn't such a bad idea. It's the combination: rain, temperatures of 10-13 degrees and hardly any options to take a break. I had one in a bus stop. In shorts, as I packed for a bit warmer weather.

I booked a bed at Casa Tomás, as the Xunta albergue is a bit out of town. Good reviews, but I guess Tomás didn't have his best day today. A normal bed, a duvet and a real towel are all great though!

So far we are only 4 here. A very quiet man and a Dutch couple I already met in the Xunta albergues in Laza and Vilar. They started in Granada and are very seasoned pilgrims (20+ years).

For tomorrow (another rainy day) I have planned an alternative to the asphalt and uglyness between Xunqueira and Ourense. I will be walking to Allariz instead (there should be a nice river path), I think about 9 kms? It is supposed to be a beautiful town. In the afternoon I'll catch a bus to Ourense and spend the night there.

P.S: I had to laugh when I saw this sign. Google Translate isn't everything...

 

[Luka]

Xunqueira de Ambía - Allariz (9)

I had a bit of a sore throat when I woke up, but for the rest I felt fine. When I started walking in shorts, T-shirt and rain poncho by 10-12 degrees, I realised I was feeling really warm. But I still felt fine.

I combined a couple of wikiloc tracks for the short walk to Allariz. Almost all on beautiful dirt tracks, but also very wet and muddy, with high wet grass and the occasional stream to cross. However I arrived in Allariz in soaking wet shoes, I did enjoy my little adventure.



In Allariz I still had to kill about 4,5 hours before the bus to Ourense would leave. Allariz is a beautiful little town, but it had started to rain again and I had started to feel slightly worse. So I spent those hours mostly in bars and restaurants and on paracetamol.

Luckily I booked a private room (JJ Hostel) in Ourense. After a long hot shower I have only been laying in bed, going from feeling warm to shivering. For tomorrow there is more rain forcasted. So all in all I am afraid it would be wise to bus the next stage too...

 

[Peterexpatkiwi]

After a long hot shower I have only been laying in bed, going from feeling warm to shivering. For tomorrow there is more rain forcasted. So all in all I am afraid it would be wise to bus the next stage too...

It sounds as though it might actually be an idea to consider spending a second night where you are. I hope it's not necessary though, and that you shake it off overnight. Good luck

 

[chinacat]

Take care of yourself, Luka …

You can be sure we are wishing you well and sending you healing thoughts and hope that you can resume walking soon

Wishing you a deep, healing sleep

Buen Camino!

 

[Luka]

It sounds as though it might actually be an idea to consider spending a second night where you are. I hope it's not necessary though, and that you shake it off overnight. Good luck

My next stay is already booked and paid. It is (por casualidad) also a private room, but with a communal kitchen. So I can cook myself something healthy. In the room I am staying now I cannot even make myself a cup of tea.

 

[Luka]

Take care of yourself, Luka …

You can be sure we are wishing you well and sending you healing thoughts and hope that you can resume walking soon

Wishing you a deep, healing sleep

Buen Camino!

Thank you!

Unfortunately I slept badly. I feel meh, but it is hard to tell what part of meh comes from the broken night.

Check out time here is 12.00h, check in time there is 13.30h. So I am going to get myself some groceries in Ourense (veggies!) and I think there is a bus leaving around 14.00h, with a walk of about 1,5 km on both sides. That seems doable.

 

[Sirage]

it would be nice if the Albergue providers took note of other cultures preferences

Yes and no. A real benefit of being in another culture (ie. Spanish) is to discover, experience, perhaps be uncomfortable, and learn something, and not have your familiar comfortable home culture transposed into Spain and distort it.

 

[Peterexpatkiwi]

Yes and no. A real benefit of being in another culture (ie. Spanish) is to discover, experience, perhaps be uncomfortable, and learn something, and not have your familiar comfortable home culture transposed into Spain and distort it.

I agree with you to a point, but nudity in some cultures is taboo. We've actually had questions about it on the forum before, and for some that could potentially mean the difference between them being comfortable staying in an Albergue or not. Roughly 50% of the people that walk the camino are not Spanish, but visitors. As an Albergue owner I would want my clients to the comfortable, which clearly Janet's students weren't.

Personally a shower door - or, at the very least a curtain - seems to be a minor compromise. Installation or lack thereof is not actually a cultural difference per se, if it was either all of them would have shower doors or none of them would. It is notable that the older buildings may not have shower screens but all of the modern ones do, which would appear to prove that the vast majority of albergue owners are appreciative of their clients needs.

Acceptance of public nudity on the other hand is most definitely a cultural difference.

 

[Peterexpatkiwi]

Thank you!

Unfortunately I slept badly. I feel meh, but it is hard to tell what part of meh comes from the broken night.

Check out time here is 12.00h, check in time there is 13.30h. So I am going to get myself some groceries in Ourense (veggies!) and I think there is a bus leaving around 14.00h, with a walk of about 1,5 km on both sides. That seems doable.

I hope the bus ride is enjoyable and that the short walk helps clear your head. Get well soon!

 

[VNwalking]

Get well soon, Luka - I hope you can shake this very quickly.

 

[Luka]

Ourense - Pazos (bus)

For a non-walking feeling meh-day, it wasn't such a bad day after all. I did groceries in Ourense and stocked it all up in my pack (also because it is Sunday tomorrow), spent the rest of the morning in bed and when it was time to check out, I had a wonderful second breakfast in the café next door.



I then walked to the bus station. Too early, but glad I did, because on my way it started to rain again and this time it was heavy rain that lasted for at least an hour.

I took a bus to Viduedo and walked from there to Alojamiento Pazos. Great place! It looks nice, I got my own room, but there is a communal kitchen. Finally did a real laundry. These are the little things a pilgrim really enjoys, haha.

And I could cook for the first time! I carried half a kilo of broccoli with me from Ourense and made a nice pasta dish and also a pasta salad for tomorrow on the walk.

It seems like the virus I got is mostly a heavy cold. Every now and then I still feel a bit feverish, but fortunately it hasn't gotten worse. So I am rather hopeful that I can walk again tomorrow. Also because it will be a very short walk, only 12 kms to Oseira.

So fingers crossed I'll sleep better tonight and fit enough to walk tomorrow.

I also hope the worst is behind us regarding the rain. That has been taking a toll on my mood too. It has been cold, rainy and cloudy non-stop since I started walking.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Luka, I hope you are feeling better. We stayed in Cea less than two weeks ago, and thought the very short 10k walk to Oseira would be "a piece of cake". We had had some drizzle and light rain in Ourense, but it was mostly sunny going to Cea. For me that easy 10k was quite a surprise as it is mostly uphill and walking in quite a few wet, muddy stream beds with variable size rocks to navigate so it took longer than I thought...be careful!
That said, you will love the monastery, grounds and the beautiful albergue. It was all a definite highlight! The monastery tour in late afternoon and Vespers in the early evening were both special.

 

[Luka]

Nooo, no more mud...

Thanks for the heads-up, @Camino Chrissy! With the amount of rainfall this week it will definitely be muddy... But yes indeed I am looking forward to the monastery

 

[dougfitz]

For me that easy 10k was quite a surprise as it is mostly uphill and walking in quite a few wet, muddy stream beds with variable size rocks to navigate so it took longer than I thought...be careful!

I walked from Cea to Oseira last year, and didn't have to walk along any stream beds. The path I followed was along an old roadway. IIRC there were a couple of places where the road surface had washed away. Perhaps a little more care might be required crossing these washouts, but I don’t recall it being an issue for me. For the most part, my memory is that along the old roadway, the surface was quite good to walk on.

At some point, that road joins a more modern asphalt road and then there was a section of track near the end. It was, I thought, a really pleasant walk. Take the usual care walking alongside the roads, and enjoy the magnificent upland scenery.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

I walked from Cea to Oseira last year, and didn't have to walk along any stream beds. The path I followed was along an old roadway. IIRC there were a couple of places where the road surface had washed away. Perhaps a little more care might be required crossing these washouts, but I don’t recall it being an issue for me. For the most part, my memory is that along the old roadway, the surface was quite good to walk on.

At some point, that road joins a more modern asphalt road and then there was a section of track near the end. It was, I thought, a really pleasant walk. Take the usual care walking alongside the roads, and enjoy the magnificent upland scenery.

Maybe we took a different path than you, as we had few roads until we got closer to the monastery.
Here is a section of my forum report for that portion of the walk, although I am not very detailed...

 

[J Willhaus]

There is also a bus if it is raining...
I'm not sure on Sundays though.

 

[Lindsay53]

I walked from Cea to Oseira last year, and didn't have to walk along any stream beds. The path I followed was along an old roadway. IIRC there were a couple of places where the road surface had washed away. Perhaps a little more care might be required crossing these washouts, but I don’t recall it being an issue for me. For the most part, my memory is that along the old roadway, the surface was quite good to walk on.

At some point, that road joins a more modern asphalt road and then there was a section of track near the end. It was, I thought, a really pleasant walk. Take the usual care walking alongside the roads, and enjoy the magnificent upland scenery.

I don't recall any stream beds either, just a nice mountain road. Is there more than one route?

 

[Camino Chrissy]

I don't recall any stream beds either, just a nice mountain road. Is there more than one route?

I'm not sure, but my son was the "navigator" and usually prefers staying off roads when possible.

 

[J Willhaus]

I'm not sure, but my son was the "navigator" and usually prefers staying off roads when possible.

Sounds like you were on a bit of a boondoggle, @Camino Chrissy !

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Sounds like you were on a bit of a boondoggle, @Camino Chrissy !

Maybe, but it provided a memory I won't forget!...I'm sure we saw some mojones somewhere!

 

[LTfit]

Hope you made it to Oseira safely and in descent health. I've stayed in the old albergue twice taking the tour in the afternoon but I hear that the albergue is much improved since the renovations.

Ultreia.

 

[Luka]

Pazos - Oseira (13)

Today was great! I had a very good rest and a cold was all that was left from my not feeling so well of the last two days.

It was a very nice walk to Oseira and for the first time we only had a bit of drizzle and even some sunshine. Por fin! I didn't find it too difficult or muddy. There was only one tricky point:



The albergue must be the most beautiful Xunta albergue there is. Very spacious, with lots of privacy and the bunks aren't so low. We are a very international bunch, with pilgrims from France, Belgium, Hongkong, Canada, Scotland, the Netherlands and one Spaniard. It is not the kind of crowd I am used to. Normally I meet a lot more young people and Spaniards.

I also enjoyed the tour and the Vespers. Almost every pilgrim did the tour, but there were just two of us in the mass. Only having a cold is not very practical, I ha a hard time not to sneeze or cough and the mass was quite bit longer than I am used to Vespers in France. But it was very special to be there.

 

[Luka]

Oseira - O Castro Dozón (12)

Another cloudy and chilly day. Another beautiful stage. The steep climb out of Oseira is a bit of a challenge with my cold.

It is dogs day. A lot more barking from everywhere than on other days. In the second or third village I meet a boxer. He seems more scared of me than I am of him. After about 9 kms out of Oseira, I think it was in A Gouxa, I meet 3 loose Spanish mastiffs barking at me. In the old days it would have scared the hell out of me, but I can read them better now. I slowly approach them on the side of the road and they let me pass.

The first open bar is in O Castro Dozón and that is where I meet most of my albergue buddies again. I order a tea, and another one, and another one. I have a reservation in Lalín and besides that it would be too far for me to walk, it would be a lot of road walk. And the sky looks like it is going to rain again.

After about an hour the Polish ladies from the albergue also arrive. One of them is exhausted, so they immediately decide to wait for the bus to Lalín with me. They don't have a place to stay yet. The 9 beds of the pensión in O Castro are full. Botos is also full (but also too far).

In the end we are 11 pilgrims getting on the bus. Apart from me, all without a place to stay. The albergue in Lalín is also fully booked. I suspect a group, as it was fully booked weeks ago.

I am staying in Las Palmeras, a typical old-fashioned Spanish pensión. I reserved a room for €23, the owner charges me €24. Whatever. The room is chilly and the heaters can't be put on by the guests themselves. I try a hot shower to get warm, but the water jets are so hard it hurts.

I get something to eat, do my laundry and I spend the evening in bed shivering. It looks like I have found my Waterloo.

 

[Peterexpatkiwi]

@Luka , I'm sorry to hear that. You've been looking forward to it for so long, rough that you barely get underway before coming down sick.
I guess you're heading for home now?

 

[Luka]

@Luka , I'm sorry to hear that. You've been looking forward to it for so long, rough that you barely get underway before coming down sick.
I guess you're heading for home now?

Thank you! This is unfortunately the second time I have to quit my Camino Sanabrés...

Home is not an option until Sunday as I have a house sitter...

 

[Luka]

I am still in bed and still shivering. The plan: take a bus to Ourense and another one to Verín, where my car is parked. Tomorrow I'll drive to Salamanca where it should be sunny and warm. A couple of days there to fully recover seems like the best plan. And then home.

 

[Peterexpatkiwi]

Take it easy and stay safe, I hope your new plan works out well for you. Get well soon!

 

[Lindsay53]

A pity you have had to quit Luka, but your health is more important and the Camino will still be there. Look after yourself .

 

[TravellingMan22]

I am still in bed and still shivering. The plan: take a bus to Ourense and another one to Verín, where my car is parked. Tomorrow I'll drive to Salamanca where it should be sunny and warm. A couple of days there to fully recover seems like the best plan. And then home.

Best wishes. Sure you will be back on track soon. Really enjoyed your postings!

 

[peregrina2000]

Tomorrow I'll drive to Salamanca where it should be sunny and warm. A couple of days there to fully recover seems like the best plan.

Salamanca is such a great choice — the Plaza Mayor is one of the most awesome places in the world to sit and relax and drink your hot tea! And even if it rains, the Plaza Mayor after a rain just glistens and is beautiful.

Like the others, sending best wishes for a quick recovery, Luka.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

After about 9 kms out of Oseira, I think it was in A Gouxa, I meet 3 loose Spanish mastiffs barking at me. In the old days it would have scared the hell out of me, but I can read them better now. I slowly approach them on the side of the road and they let me pass.

I think these are the three dogs you possibly saw, Luka, before Dozen in O'Gouxa(I think) as they are the only three large loose dogs we'd seen. Two weeks ago when we were there, they were laying in the shade next to a small bar, and only one got up and barked; basically they were quite indifferent to us. The lady at the bar had a homemade tortilla with veggies in it and offered to heat it on the stove as she had no microwave. We ate outside while she played with the dogs and I wondered if they were hers; the cream color one looked old. The dogs returned to their naps in the shade before we left.

I thought the long uphill leaving Oseira was difficult and recall more stream beds with rocks, but the day was beautiful and eventually flattened out some.. We ended in Botos where we had a reservation at A Taberna de Vento Hostel. I think it was the longest day we had on the Sanabres at 23k.

I'm very sorry to hear you are ending your Camino several days early. Hopefully your health and weather on the way home will be be good. On the plus side, how nice for you to live in Spain! Salamanca is lovely. The tower at the cathedral has some beautiful views of the city rooftops.

 

[Kirkie]

I am still in bed and still shivering. The plan: take a bus to Ourense and another one to Verín, where my car is parked. Tomorrow I'll drive to Salamanca where it should be sunny and warm. A couple of days there to fully recover seems like the best plan. And then home.

Wishing you speedy recovery. At least you have the safety of your own transport to get home and find your feet again.

 

[chinacat]

I am still in bed and still shivering. The plan: take a bus to Ourense and another one to Verín, where my car is parked. Tomorrow I'll drive to Salamanca where it should be sunny and warm. A couple of days there to fully recover seems like the best plan. And then home.

Sad you’ve had to cut short your Sanabrés again
Third time lucky, perhaps ?

I’m thankful, too, that you have your own transport to get back home, where you will be warm and able to relax.

Enjoy the sun in Salamanca and hope your virus is chased away in the heat. It’s miserable to have to lie shivering in bed when you are already unwell.
Do they have hot-water bottles in Spain?

Safe journey, Luka, hope you can get lots of fresh veggies in Salamanca to restore your health and well-being

PS
What about a hot veggie curry?

 

[Luka]

I think these are the three dogs you possibly saw, Luka, before Dozen in O'Gouxa(I think) as they are the only three large loose dogs we'd seen. Two weeks ago when we were there, they were laying in the shade next to a small bar, and only one got up and barked; basically they were quite indifferent to us. The lady at the bar had a homemade tortilla with veggies in it and offered to heat it on the stove as she had no microwave. We ate outside while she played with the dogs and I wondered if they were hers; the cream color one looked old. The dogs returned to their naps in the shade before we left.

I thought the long uphill leaving Oseira was difficult and recall more stream beds with rocks, but the day was beautiful and eventually flattened out some.. We ended in Botos where we had a reservation at A Taberna de Vento Hostel. I think it was the longest day we had on the Sanabres at 23k.

I'm very sorry to hear you are ending your Camino several days early. Hopefully your health and weather on the way home will be be good. On the plus side, how nice for you to live in Spain! Salamanca is lovely. The tower at the cathedral has some beautiful views of the city rooftops.
View attachment 170956

Ah, I missed that tortilla! They must have been closed on Monday and maybe that was why the dogs were roaming around. I recognise the middle one. There was also one cream coloured, but that one was definitely giving milk, so couldn't have been very old.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Ah, I missed that tortilla! They must have been closed on Monday and maybe that was why the dogs were roaming around. I recognise the middle one. There was also one cream coloured, but that one was definitely giving milk, so couldn't have been very old.

Now that you mention it, I think I do remember the cream colored dog had wobbly teats hanging down. Maybe she was worn out taking care of a final litter and nearing menopause age.

I hope you are starting to feel a bit on the mend, Luka.

 

[Luka]

Thank you all! I spent the last couple of hours in a very nice hotelroom in Verín (Hotel Villa de Verín, extremely good value for money). Didn't see anything of Verín, because it was raining again and I just wanted to spend the rest of the day in a warm and quiet hotelroom. I parked my car here, so I got access to some extra warm clothes. Very welcome!

And yes, very happy that I don't have to catch a flight to go home!

@peregrina2000 I think it was about 30 years ago that I spent a couple of days in Salamanca. Apart from passing by on the Via de la Plata in 2014. So yes, I am looking forward to it. However I am still a bit in limbo between feeling sad because I had to stop walking and getting (mentally) ready for a city trip.

@chinacat at home it is cold and rainy too haha, because I live in the north of Spain. I am escaping a couple of days to Salamanca, because I can't go home yet. By Sunday, when I am going back home, the weather should have improved.

And yessss, a hot curry! Definitely looking forward to some good veggie meals in Salamanca!

 

[Luka]

Now that you mention it, I think I do remember the cream colored dog had wobbly teats hanging down. Maybe she was worn out taking care of a final litter and nearing menopause age.

I hope you are starting to feel a bit on the mend, Luka.

Then it was definitely the same dog! Pobrecita... And yes, spending an afternoon and evening in a warm hotelroom helps. I should be fit enough to drive to Salamanca tomorrow.

 

[chinacat]

at home it is cold and rainy too haha

Bummer!!
Hope it has changed by Sunday

 

[Luka]

Bummer!!
Hope it has changed by Sunday

The forecast is quite promising

 

[Bonitatime]

Sorry your walk ended this way
Salamanca is lovely
take care there will be other momentis to walk

 

[Luka]

Greetings from sunny Salamanca!

It was interesting to drive along all those wellknown villages! A Gudiña, Lubián, Requejo, Puebla de Sanabria, Rionegro del Puente, Tábara, Montamarta... And I saw the weather changing. Rain and 11 degrees when I left Verín, more rain in the mountains around Padornelo, then just clouds and then more and more blue skies.

By the time I arrived in Salamanca the temperature had gone up to a whopping 19 degrees. And it was so so nice to walk around without getting wet or feeling cold! To see terraces full of people, to feel the sunshine... From tomorrow on it will get even warmer.

I don't know yet what I will do with the Sanabrés in the future. Third time lucky? Or is it tempting providence?

 

[Camino Chrissy]

@Luka, so glad to hear the sun is your friend in Salamanca!

 

[Camino Chrissy]

A couple of suggestions for you, Luka. I was in Salamanca a month ago and in addition to the stunning cathedral, I recommend climbing this awesome tower nearby...


Also the Art Nouveau museum. Neither are overwhelming and not very expensive.

 

[Luka]

Thanks @Camino Chrissy! The art nouveau museum was already on my list. Will add the tower.

 

[VNwalking]

I don't know yet what I will do with the Sanabrés in the future. Third time lucky? Or is it tempting providence?

So good you are finally warm, Luka. Bummer but discretion is the better part of valor, when it comes to health! And since you live in Spain it's not an epic journey to go back.

 

[LTfit]

Thanks @Camino Chrissy! The art nouveau museum was already on my list. Will add the tower.

Great museum! Very near to it is a national archive about the Spanish Civil War. Worth a visit.

 

[Luka]

Great museum! Very near to it is a national archive about the Spanish Civil War. Worth a visit.

O really? That sounds interesting too, thanks! And @Camino Chrissy, thanks for the tip about the tower. I loved it! And I was all by myself up there. Did the tour afterwards too, that was interesting as well.

 

[LTfit]

O really? That sounds interesting too, thanks! And @Camino Chrissy, thanks for the tip about the tower. I loved it! And I was all by myself up there. Did the tour afterwards too, that was interesting as well.

Here is the website:
https://www.cultura.gob.es/cultura/areas/archivos/mc/archivos/cdmh/portada.html

 

[CarolamS]

So sorry you've had to cut short your Camino Sanabres again, I have enjoyed your reports. I hope you can complete it some time and wish you well.