It does`nt just take 5 weeks: I did Malaga to A Coruna in that time, starting as a keen runner and with few body reserves. I had intended to run the camino, but a knee injury made me realise that this ambition was beyond me, but I could walk it. Two days in, I realised how ill prepared I was - only May, but road surface temperatures were sufficient to cause my feet to swell so much that only the purchase of trail shoes two sizes larger ( Merrills, great shoes! Unsolicited testimonial!) brought eventual relief. As a competitive runner, I had supposed walking would be tame. My first fellow pilgrim companion had just completed the Portugues, and he thrashed me - there`s running fitness and there`s walking fitness and they are not the same. There were muscles that I had rarely used that were suddenly being called on deck, and they were found wanting. For several weeks.
On my return I was horrified to find I had lost 5 kgs , which I could ill afford. My gym instructor gave me a programme of muscle regeneration and another 10 weeks saw the status quo ante restored. The muscle memory is apparently there and exercise will restore the loss.
The following year I had my knee injury operated on - meniscus tears trimmed by keyhole surgery. Relatively non-invasive but nevertheless disruptive to normal physical progression. In the three weeks post operation, resting but not crutch-supported, I lost 5 kgs again! The surgeon told me I was his first patient to complain of weight loss - most complained of putting on weight. But I could see an obvious atrophy of the thigh muscles, which, a year later, has still not been completely restored.
Am I drawing any conclusions from this ramble? Well, I think firstly that a Camino is not just a walk in the parque. It`s a tough physical ordeal relieved by myriad experiences of the way, perhaps better appreciated by the mind than by the body. The muscles that are`nt being used are going to be sacrificed for those that are obliged to work. If, as I fervently hope, I can do another camino (Via Serrana, ojala?) I shall make sure this time to do my morning and evening press-ups!