LIVE from the Camino Live from the Invierno when I still remember

[ranthr]

Started out from Ponferrada today in nice but a bit chilly weather. Seeing that it was hotter at home in the north of Norway,was a bit surprising.
The markings were good along the way.
In Toral de Merayo the only bar open at 9.30 was the Bar Nogal.
The only place I wondered about the way today was out of TdM. Reading the guide I was waiting for a sharp climb shortly thereafter, but it took some time and the climb was not sharp.
Out of Villalibre when you cross the N536 before Prisranza, at the Centro Social, I guess, was a sign at the camino, saying Albergue the Villalibre, and a number to .
In Priaranza del Bierzo the camino took off from the N-536 and went down through town. No open bar. The camino joined the highway again just before the Mirador de Santallo. Since there was a pavement all along the road, I guess that would have been shorter and easier, at least in muddy weather.
In Santalla I took the hihgway looking for a bar. Saw nothing before friendly bar Ronda. When leaving the bar senora showed me where to go to get to the camino. The camino out of town was on a dustroad and later on path to the point where you crossed the highway to start the climb to Villavieja. Before the Camino went up on a narrow path
to the road, there were arrows to Albergue the Villavieja. Here as well I guess it would have been easier and cleaner to stay on the pavement on the side of the mainroad.
Anyway I decided to take the camino up to Villavieja. Guess if I had not, I might have regretted that. I would like to say: Do not in bad weather.
The weather today was dry and not very hot, so I was not exhausted.
In Villavieja I did not see the albergue along the camino, perhaps it was higher up and I missed the sign. I wouldn’t have stayed there anyway, and was more concerned about the village dogs. Heard some nasty barking and passed a big dog which did not bother about me, so I was a bit disappointed having bought from US and carried a dog dazzler too scare the dogs away.
Happy to reach the castillo before it closed at 2pm. Free for peregrinos, even got a small souvenir. The girl in charge told me there had been 3 peregrinos ahead of me and I even met one of them leaving when I arrived.
Then the toad down too Borrenes staying in the Casa Rural Cornatel, clean but a bit overprised. Evening meal reminded me about how fed up of caminomeals you might be after some weeks on the camino, but this was my first day. Even the tinto was not good. Anyway I am glad I did not have to take the next climb to day.
Tomorrow a short day Puente Domingo Florez.

 

[ranthr]

Started out from Ponferrada today in nice but a bit chilly weather. Seeing that it was hotter at home in the north of Norway,was a bit surprising.
The markings were good along the way.
In Toral de Merayo the only bar open at 9.30 was the Bar Nogal.
The only place I wondered about the way today was out of TdM. Reading the guide I was waiting for a sharp climb shortly thereafter, but it took some time and the climb was not sharp.
Out of Villalibre when you cross the N536 beforePrisranza, at the Centro Social, I guess, was a sign at the camino, saying Albergue the Villalibre, and a number to call
In Priaranza del Bierzo the camino took off from the N-536 and went down through town. No open bar. The camino joined the highway again just before the Mirador de Santallo. Since there was a pavement all along the road, I guess that would have been shorter and easier, at least in muddy weather.
InSantalla I took the hihgway looking for a bar. Saw nothing before friendly bar Ronda. When leaving the bar senora showed me where to go to get to the camino. The camino out of town was on a dustroad and later on path to the point where you crossed the highway to start the climb to Villavieja. Before the Camino went up on a narrow path
to the road, there were arrows to Albergue the Villavieja. Here as well I guess it would have been easier and vleaner stay on the pavement on the side of the mainroad.
Anyway I decided to take the camino up to Villavieja. Guess if I had not, I might have regretted that. I would like to say: Do not in bad weather.
The weather today was dry and not very hot, so I was not exhausted.
In Villavieja I did not see the albergue along the camino, perhaps it was higher up and I missed the sign. I wouldn’t have stayed ther anyway and was more concerned about the villagr dogs. Heard some nasty barking and passed a big dog which did not bother about me, so I was a bit disappointed having bought from US and carried a dog dazzler too scare the dogs away.
Happy to reach the castillo before it closed at 2pm. Free for peregrinos, even got a small souvenir. The girl in charge told me there had been 3 peregrinos ahead of me and I even met one of them leaving when I arrived.
Then the toad down too Borrenes staying in the Casa Rural Cornatel, clean but a bit overprised. Evening meal reminded me about how fed up of caminomeals you might be after some weeks on the camino, but this was my first day. Even the tinto was not good. Anyway I am glad I did not have to take the next climb to day.
Tomorrow a short day Puente Domingo Florez.

 

[ranthr]

There are a lot of wrong spelling here, I’m not good at writing a lot on the phone.

 

[lettinggo]

There are a lot of wrong spelling here, I’m not good at writing a lot on the phone.

Hola ranthr

Don't worry about the spelling
Thank you for sharing your expertiences on Invernio.

Buen Camino
Lettinggo

 

[OzAnnie]

Hi @ranthr
Good to read that you’re encountering fair weather.
Not overhot that is.
Btw - I found some interesting meals on the Invierno in April.
Enjoy and Buen Camino
Annie

 

[ranthr]

 

[ranthr]

Day 2: Borrenes to Puente de Domingo Flórez.
Started out at 7, before the juice and cake breakfast at 08.30 to be able to have time to enjoy As Médulas. The weather was fine and the camino was wll marked. A dog tried to scare me on the way out of Borrenes, but he went off the road when he saw me and started barking at his front door. Perhaps he was afraid of me. I used the dogwhispering method.
I must admit that I «lost» the Médulas. When I arrived around 8 the town was quite dead. Met a couple of old men in the street, but they did not understand my try to speak the language. I did not find out where to start and had hoped first breakfast then a tour around.
A km before entrring the pueblo there was a sign to the left of a 4km route to mirador Orellán.I should have taken a route off the camino at that point and perhaps found another route down to town.
On the way out on the hill there was also a signed 4 km route back, but then 8 extra km did not tempt me, so I slowly walked down the hill to the river. A lot of nice views along the way and perhaps more soulcuring than looking at the environmental attack made by a Roman conquer.
Met two peregrinos on bike today!
Got stamp at the bar after the second bridge into town.
Staying at Hostal Torre, booked at booking.com and more expensive than price de peregrinos.
Room is quite Ok, wifi good.
Had a nice meal, menu del dia, in the comedor, good wine as well.
Celebrating the Norwegian nathionalday(constitucionday) with a short walkingday. Tried to insert some pictured but some were to big.

 

[OzAnnie]

Beautiful pics @ranthr
The colours are gorgeous now

 

[ranthr]

Day 3 : Puente de Domingo Flórez - O Barco de Valdeorras:
Started out at 7 after a Spanish desayuno, what do diabeticos do in Spain?
Hostel was Ok, but a bit noisy during the evening from the bar across the street.
Off I went over the bridge to Galicia and Quereño where my problems started. Did 3 loops and 2.5 km extra until an old señora showed me the way to my first loop. She thought I was hopeless I guess since she had a lot of Mi madre! o mi dieu!
I had taken the right way, but was disturbed by the big dog mentioned in the guide and did not see the arrow a bit away to the right of him.
Well there were duoble arrows at the startingpoint. Why I do not know.
So I passed the angry dog again and was on my way.
For those interested in dogs there were barking dogs in all pueblos, in chain or not in chain, but no one tried to come close to me.
About the markings: I noticed that the markings were a bit “slower” or “later” than in CeL. When you started wondering it took som more time, I would have put them closer to the changingpoint, but it really was good markings all the way.
In Sobradelo the arrows where freshpainted and the old men I passed was eager to show me the right way. Felt welcome as a peregrina, in bar Mar the owner told me I was the 5. today, so compared to the severalhundreds on camino Frances......
I was tempted to take the road all the way from Sobradelo, but I did not. The camino was not so spectactual up in the heights,so I was thinking that a pilgrim in old days would have taken the shortest way, not and extra climb for the view.

 

[Theatregal]

Wonderful to see your beautiful photos and read your account of this way @ranthr

 

[peregrina2000]

Yay! more comments for the 2019 guide! I am enjoying the read and the pictures! Thanks so much @ranthr

 

[ranthr]

I forgot to say something about the camino through O Barco.
When you enter town there is a typical citymap. On that map the camino was marked off from the mainstreet through the the old town down to the riverpark. I went down there and had a long walk along the riverside with regular shells on the fence. I never found the takeoff from the river. Tried to use the wisepilgrim app, but I am pretty sure that the camino through town was not the same as the marked one. I had to ask for help to find Pension Do Lar and later found a mojon at the end of the street, so that I know where to start out tomorrow.

 

[ranthr]

Day 4 O Barco to A Rua
Started out this morning quite sure I knew where camino was. At the first roundabout after walking under railwaytrack a maledriver stopped the car and told me I was not on the camino. This was the way to albergue and the camino was by the river, the route was changed. Then I understood the markings from yesterday.
This kind man offered me a drive down to the camino and I accepted the offer and had a friendly chat down to the river at the end of the promanade,

I do not know if I would have jumped into a stragers car at home like this, but but I do not think that somebody with bad plans would spend the day waiting for one of the few peregrinas here and at least not a 70 year old, so I feel safe.
The camino was marked with arrows and markingstones over the small green bridge, along a track by the rio Sil to Arcos.
Now waiting for the train in Montefurado. Had hot nice scenic walk over the hill to Montefura after a a bit boring, but easy walk to A Rua except for the streches along the river Sil.
At breakfast time, waitng for someone to open the bar, I met a peregrino on bike from South Afrika who also stayed at P do Lar.
To day I stay at Hostal Niza. I tried in several ways to contact hostal Fabio, at their website, mail,telephone but no reply. So I called Niza and met a nice young lady who accepted my booking.
Ok, simple room without TV,clean, ashtrays made me feel the smoke, nice people in the reception, Wifi.
Heavy rain outside so I am glad I did the Montefurado before it started. Havent read all post in forum well enough since I was on the wrong platform when the train arrived.

 

[peregrina2000]

Thanks, Ranthr, that is a major change. It sounds like the bracketed discussion in our guide that talks about an alternative "bypass" has become the main route. It's on pps. 15-16 in our guide but I can't figure out how to paste it in here.

So I am assuming that anyone who spends the night in Barco just has to get down to the river walk to carry on? The former "main route" is now just for those who are going up to the albergue at Xagoaza?

Did you find that it was clearly marked all the way to Arcos?

It sounds like you may be heading back to A Rúa for the night and then get the train tomorrow to walk Montefurado to A Quiroga?

Sorry to bombard you with questions! Buen camino, Laurie

 

[ranthr]

Some pictures.

 

[ranthr]

Thanks, Ranthr, that is a major change. It sounds like the bracketed discussion in our guide that talks about an alternative "bypass" has become the main route. It's on pps. 15-16 in our guide but I can't figure out how to paste it in here.

So I am assuming that anyone who spends the night in Barco just has to get down to the river walk to carry on? The former "main route" is now just for those who are going up to the albergue at Xagoaza?

Did you find that it was clearly marked all the way to Arcos?

It sounds like you may be heading back to A Rúa for the night and then get the train tomorrow to walk Montefurado to A Quiroga?

Sorry to bombard you with questions! Buen camino, Laurie

Laurie, the markings were very good, freshpainted arrows and new stones with shells. I think it is the alternativ described in your guide. I think the wisepilgrim route was not this one. Tried to check where I was on the map, but I was not on the red line.
I took the train back and stay in A Rua for two nights.

 

[Charrito]

Great to read your posts, ranthr. Laurie (peregrina2000), whom I had the pleasure of meeting for the first time in Salamanca last Monday, described me in her blog as a 'fan of the Invierno'! It's not the only Camino I've walked, but I certainly love it.

I honestly don't see what the problem with walking out of O Barco is. Wherever you've stayed in town (Pensión do Lar, Mayo or La Gran Tortuga) you just need to walk west on the Avenida Conde de Fenosa, which then becomes the Avenida Galicia, until you reach the roundabout at the end. It's then signposted very clearly.

 

[ranthr]

Great to read your posts, ranthr. Laurie (peregrina2000), whom I had the pleasure of meeting for the first time in Salamanca last Monday, described me in her blog as a 'fan of the Invierno'! It's not the only Camino I've walked, but I certainly love it.

I honestly don't see what the problem with walking out of O Barco is. Wherever you've stayed in town (Pensión do Lar, Mayo or La Gran Tortuga) you just need to walk west on the Avenida Conde de Fenosa, which then becomes the Avenida Galicia, until you reach the roundabout at the end. It's then signposted very clearly.

So I did! But was stopped.

 

[Charrito]

So I did! But was stopped.

Stopped? who stopped you??????

 

[ranthr]

Nice recreation area along the riverside near poliodeportivo a 5 minutes walk from Renfe ARúa-Petin.
Sunday and Pulpo outside several bars.

 

[Charrito]

Nice recreation area along the riverside near poliodeportivo a 5 minutes walk from Renfe ARúa-Petin.
Sunday and Pulpo outside several bars.

I told peregrina2000 about this a couple of years ago. Been there twice. Nice!

 

[ranthr]

Day 5 A Rua to Quiroga/San Clodio
I must admit that this was a hard day even if I had done the Rua -Montefurado bit on Saturday. Perhaps a restday is not good.
The path out of Montefurado was ok, a bit wet somewhere but that was not a problem.
After having walked the LU 933 for a couple of km I put away my poles and prepared for a nice slowly walk downhill on the quiet road to Bendilló.
Then suddenly the camino took off from the road and added a climb up, then down through the wood on a narrow overgrowed path, over an arroyo on stones, up the hill again and then down to the road again at the sideway to Bendilló. I could most of the time see the road down there somewhere.
I do not know if this direction is new since
@peregrina2000 went there?
Anyway I was thinking that these extra ups and downs would make the route very hard for those walking all the way from A Rúa and my app said more than 9km where the guidebook says 7.6.
It was also a last hard climb up the road into Bendilló, but there the smell of eucalyptus helped me on the way.
Then down to Soldón, as I think @OzAnnie wrote, the camino was marked uphill again instead of pointing to the grassy path across the highway described in the guide. I also refused more ups so I took the down path and had an easy way down to Soldón. No bar open but I sat down under the bridge for a while. My first plan was to stay last night there, but I am glad I didn’t, Did not look very nice, perhaps I was affected by the dark sky above, perhaps better when not alone.
After Sequeiros I cannot remember going over the bridge with a metal rail on the left mentioned in the guide, so perhaps the route has changed.
The path down from the castle of Torrenovas was a bit overgrowed, but with all the peregrinos on the Invierno these days, it will be better. I did not meet any today.
But I would say that the route was very well marked.
Had a shower from the sky after Soldón and that made me think about @OzAnnie who had a lot of bad weather on her camino.
Coming into Quiroga I saw several bars but none of them seemed to sell food. The town looked a bit dead, touristoffice had siesta, so I went straight down to San Clodio where I had booked on Hotel Las Vegas, nice, big room with bath, 22 €, hope it is possible to have some food too.

 

[ranthr]

The secon last is where the camino points from the -rosd instead of down to Soldón

 

[peregrina2000]

Great to read your posts, ranthr. Laurie (peregrina2000), whom I had the pleasure of meeting for the first time in Salamanca last Monday, described me in her blog as a 'fan of the Invierno'! It's not the only Camino I've walked, but I certainly love it.

I honestly don't see what the problem with walking out of O Barco is. Wherever you've stayed in town (Pensión do Lar, Mayo or La Gran Tortuga) you just need to walk west on the Avenida Conde de Fenosa, which then becomes the Avenida Galicia, until you reach the roundabout at the end. It's then signposted very clearly.

Hey, charrito, I had tried to post our selfie on my blog, but the program wouldn't let me. I tried it again when I got home and it is now there. It was great meeting you!

It sounds to me like @ranthr found that the roundabout way has been "demoted" and the river walk "promoted" as the official way out of Barco. The guide talks about the river walk exit from town but it was all kind of unclear to me. But it sounds like we need to straighten things out, because I agree that the roundabout way is not the most direct way to Arcos. At least that's what I think if my memory is correct.

 

[peregrina2000]

Nice recreation area along the riverside near poliodeportivo a 5 minutes walk from Renfe ARúa-Petin.
Sunday and Pulpo outside several bars.

I told peregrina2000 about this a couple of years ago. Been there twice. Nice!

Well, I certainly have messed up because I have no idea what you two are talking about. Can you describe this in more detail? A riverside walk in A Rua? I am pretty sure this didn-t make it into last year's version, did it charrito?

 

[peregrina2000]

After having walked the LU 933 for a couple of km I put away my poles and prepared for a nice slowly walk downhill on the quiet road to Bendilló.
Then suddenly the camino took off from the road and added a climb up, then down through the wood on a narrow overgrowed path, over an arroyo on stones, up the hill again and then down to the road again at the sideway to Bendilló. I could most of the time see the road down there somewhere.
I do not know if this direction is new since
@peregrina2000 went there?

I haven't been on the Invierno for three years now, so my memory is fading. This is another area where I am going to need help when I go to edit the guide. Is Bendillo the little town with the small hermita on the right as you walk up into town? I'm thinking that can't be right since ranthr is talking about walking down into Bendillo. I admit I am confused, but we will figure this out, we've figured out more confusing things for past editions!

 

[ranthr]

Well, I certainly have messed up because I have no idea what you two are talking about. Can you describe this in more detail? A riverside walk in A Rua? I am pretty sure this didn-t make it into last year's version, did it charrito?

What we are talking about in A Rua is a nice park along the Sil near the Poliodeportivo, nice place to spend some free time in the afternoon to relax. It is not along the camino. I stayed at H Niza and found this when I walked a bit around. You have to walk past Renfe on a street following RR and cross under track a bit ahead.

 

[ranthr]

I haven't been on the Invierno for three years now, so my memory is fading. This is another area where I am going to need help when I go to edit the guide. Is Bendillo the little town with the small hermita on the right as you walk up into town? I'm thinking that can't be right since ranthr is talking about walking down into Bendillo. I admit I am confused, but we will figure this out, we've figured out more confusing things for past editions!

Yes, its up, but first the road goes slightly down before the takeoff up to Bendilló. while the marked camino comes to the takeoff after a couple of climbs up and down higher than the road. I only met one car along the road so traffic is not dangerous. In rainy weather I would take the road.

 

[ranthr]

Day 6 San Clodio to Monforte de Lemos
Heavy fog in Quiroga this morning so I took the train to Monforte.
35 km not seeing the landscape is not for me.
Remember some heavy fog up to O Cebreiro several years ago. Got a bit dizzy from it.
So for the next days touristing in Monforte de Lemos.
Sun appeared in the middleof the day.

 

[ranthr]

Day 7: Monforte de Lemos- San-Esteban
Hard to start again after a break and the weather was not promising, rain and thunder like it was yesterday.
I therefore decided to follow the road, paths surely very wet and muddy after heavy rain.
So I do not have much information to give. There were some yellow arrows here and there on the roads too, even if the camino took off.
Easy going on these roads, I did not meet many cars either. There were a lot of barking but no dogs attacked me, so I do not think dogs is a bigger problem here than in your own neighbourhood.
On the hill down to Diomondi a peregrino stopped his bike to have a chat.
When I had coffee in a panaderia in MdL I saw 2
peregrinos walking past, so there are a few of us.
Myself I am more of a tourist than a peregrina, today I was picked up by Ian at Diomondi church and is staying in their charming hotel.
For those who walk the Invierno to get a Compostela two stamps a day is really a problem. There is nowhere to get a stamp. Even the museum in the cloister in Monforte had not a stamp.
I usually no longer queue up for a compostela anymore, but I perhaps do this time to tell the pilgrimoffice that this is a problem,at least if you go short stages.

 

[jerbear]

2 stamps a day. hmmm you can also take two pictures a day when you pass for instance a road sign, church, plaza mayor.... etc. just to prove you were there. BC

 

[peregrina2000]

Day 7: Monforte de Lemos- San-Esteban
Hard to start again after a break and the weather was not promising, rain and thunder like it was yesterday.
I therefore decided to follow the road, paths surely very wet and muddy after heavy rain.
So I do not have much information to give. There were some yellow arrows here and there on the roads too, even if the camino took off.
Easy going on these roads, I did not meet many cars either. There were a lot of barking but no dogs attacked me, so I do not think dogs is a bigger problem here than in your own neighbourhood.
On the hill down to Diomondi a peregrino stopped his bike to have a chat.
When I had coffee in a panaderia in MdL I saw 2
peregrinos walking past, so there are a few of us.
Myself I am more of a tourist than a peregrina, today I was picked up by Ian at Diomondi church and is staying in their charming hotel.
For those who walk the Invierno to get a Compostela two stamps a day is really a problem. There is nowhere to get a stamp. Even the museum in the cloister in Monforte had not a stamp.
I usually no longer queue up for a compostela anymore, but I perhaps do this time to tell the pilgrimoffice that this is a problem,at least if you go short stages.

Please give Ian and Irene my best. I love that place, and oh the views! Glad to hear you are back on the road. Seems like northern Spain is getting even more rain -- peregrinos on the Primitivo are drenched!

 

[ranthr]

Please give Ian and Irene my best. I love that place, and oh the views! Glad to hear you are back on the road. Seems like northern Spain is getting even more rain -- peregrinos on the Primitivo are drenched!

I will.
We just had a lovely dinner. Friendly and very helpful hosts as well. Thank you for recommending them.
Tried to load some pictures, but guess I must wait for stronger wifi.

 

[bernhugo]

Hi Ranthr, lovely high quality photos.
What are you taking them with please?

 

[ranthr]

Hi Ranthr, lovely high quality photos.
What are you taking them with please?

Thanks, only an iphone. When I try to attach photos I often get the message that some of them are too big often the most colorful. I really don’t know anything about this field.

 

[ranthr]

Day 8: Diomondi-Chantada
Easiest day so far.
The descent to Belesar was not half as steep as I expected and the ascent not as steep either. My kind host from yesterday offered to bring a bag for me, so my backpack was not heavy at all. Thank you!
And luckily the rain had a break after last evenings downpour so I felt lucky today.
There were arrows and mojons as well as the GR white and yellow blazes down from Diomondi and everywhere the camino met the road.
The arroyo was big on the way up, so I took the road most of the way.
The camino was a bit overgrown, so I guess most people take the road. The view is better along the road.
The bar at Belesar was not open at 10.
The Mesón Adega do Veiga was open and friendly.
I was there a bit early for lunch. I got a stamp there so today I managed two!
The camino passes the mesón on the road too.
So my short walk ended in Chantada at noonand Hotel Mogay let me check in.
At the moment 16.05 the rain is pouring heavily down outside.
About dairy cows. When I walked the Hadrian’s Wall Path last year there were warnings about those cows with calves.

 

[ranthr]

Some pictures.

 

[peregrina2000]

Thanks for the update, @ranthr. I just took a look at a Spain weather map, since Primitivo people are dealing with lots of rain, too. Looks like it has returned to the peninsula in force! And here we thought that constant rain from Feb-April was going to insure a nice May and June. You are definitely on the home stretch now, enjoy.

 

[ranthr]

Day 9: Chantada- Rodeiro
Left hotel Mogay this morning after a buffebreakfast with some choices of bread, scones, cakes, fruit,cornflakes, yoghurt, cheese, chorizo, mermelade for 5 euro. The hotel is renovated and the bathrooms and rooms are nice. The bed was very good with good pillows and what we in Norwegian call a dyne instead of blankets. It’s not a part of my English vocabulary. The restaurant connected to the hotel had good food and wine but it was not menu del dia price.
Some kind of a spooky day today, heavy fog, did not really see much.
The bar in Penillas was open at 9, and in the bar there were 4 Spanish peregrinos. The bar had a stamp!
Started the walk ip to Monte de Faro and thought the 4 señores would soon walk me in, but I never saw them again. Perhaps they show up dinnertime at Carpinteiras since the O Guerra is closed. I had a booking there which they cancelled.
You couldn’t see much up the hill and down. I could have walked straight into a windmill without seeing it. So I kept to the wellmarked camino. Some cycklists passed me on the way, they did not see me until they were in my back.
On the road to Rodeiro I missed the take off, and walked the road. Lots of loose dogs barked and come up to me but none of them attacked.
Was more afraid of meeting

a mummyboar with kids up in the fog.
Irene made a reservation for me on hostal Carpinteiras the other day. Everything else seemed dead in town, so if you come here on a Sunday, booking ahead is wise.

 

[bernhugo]

Thanks for your reply Ranthr.
I know nothing about Iphones, but could have told you how to reduce quality on Photoshop.
Just wondered if you were carrying a camera.

 

[OzAnnie]

Hi there @ranthr
Lovely looking at your pics. I see you also encountered the foggy/misty walk up to Monte de Faro. It’s strange to realise that I’m wishing myself back when reading your walk along the trail!!

I think the other 4 peregrinas possibly turned right at the intersection (just after the coffee stop) instead of walking ‘up’ to Monte de Faro. I think it would have been an alternative way.
Buen Camino
Annie

 

[ranthr]

Hi there @ranthr
Lovely looking at your pics. I see you also encountered the foggy/misty walk up to Monte de Faro. It’s strange to realise that I’m wishing myself back when reading your walk along the trail!!

I think the other 4 peregrinas possibly turned right at the intersection (just after the coffee stop) instead of walking ‘up’ to Monte de Faro. I think it would have been an alternative way.
Buen Camino
Annie

Met the 4 Spanish men at breakfast at 7 today in Carpinteiras. Asked them if they had walked up the ermita, but they said they did not because of the fog, made me rise a bit, angry with myself for not doing it. But they walked the monte way.

 

[ranthr]

Day 10: Rodeiro to Lalin
Foggy, cold morning today.
Reading in the guide about muddy possibilities made me choose the road.
On the way out I found several bars I did not see on the way in yesterday, when the town seemed totally dead.
Walking along the Po-533 was easy going if you closed your ears from the noise of the traffic. Met the camino once a km from Lalin when it crossed the Po-533 and continued upwards on the other side.

The km signs leavin Rodeiro said 15 km, down to the river +2km, did not find any arrows or mojons in town until I came to the river walk.

Not much arrows along the riverwalk, used the wisepilgrim app to control that I was in the right place. After 3 km along the river a caminomarker took me up a muddy path to the highway N-525. From there there was a mojon pointing up right on the other side of the highway.
I was most interested in finding my hotel, Torre do Deza, so I went to a fruitmarked on my side of the road to ask. The woman there told me to continue to the left on the highway to find the hotel which I found having walked another km. Wondered if I had to go back to where the camino took off from the highway tomorrow, but when I started
going up to the hotel, there was a mojon as well.

About yesterday: The hosts at H Carpinteiras was very kind. Got a good evening meal at 7 pm with wine and coffe, room con baño og bread, marmelade, cake and coffee for 35.€. Stayed in a room with three beds, one chair, one small night commode, cupboard, but nowhere else to put/hang things,so I think three in a room would have been difficult. Outside my window was a football arena where a match was hoing on.

Seemed to me that milk and meat production had taken over from the wineproductions in the area from now.
Have not seen any boar on this camino, but I found a dead one on the sidewalk.
Again it seems that most of the files are too large!

 

[ranthr]

Day 11: Lalin to Bandeira.
No longer on the Camino de Invierno and met the first ViadelaPlataperegrino in the morning, a Brazilian, walking from Sevilla.
When you have been walking alone for days without meeting anybody, you get a bit nervous when someone suddenly is «following» you.
Today walking in the dark Galician forests with eucalyptus and big old trees that we do not have in the north where I live.
It was raining heavily this morning, but when I was ready to start, the rain stopped and I kept dry until I arrived at Hostal Conde Rey.
There were some arroyos in the path somewhere but much better than I hoped for in the morning.
Crossed the N-525 to visit a little church some km before Silleda. There was a sign, with opening hours, pilgrimstamp etc, but there was no stamp.
But the church was open and nice.

 

[amancio]

"Perhaps they show up dinnertime at Carpinteiras since the O Guerra is closed " Is O'guerra closed??? Is it closed every day, or just on Sundays? I have a booking there for the day after Santo Estevo, bummer!

 

[ranthr]

"Perhaps they show up dinnertime at Carpinteiras since the O Guerra is closed " Is O'guerra closed??? Is it closed every day, or just on Sundays? I have a booking there for the day after Santo Estevo, bummer!

I guess it was closed because it was Sunday. They were sorry to cancel my booking, guess they didn’t check the weekday when they confirmed my booking.

 

[ranthr]

Day 12 Bandeira - Ponte Ulla ++
Cold, grey day today as well. Met a lot of peregrinos. None of them I talked to knew about Camino de Invierno.
My room at Conde Rey was cold with no heating and the watersystem a bit strange, menu del dia was good, “desayuno incluido” was toast and coffee. It is a bit strange freezing in Spain when Oslo has +30C. But I think I’ve had a bit of luck anyway when I see on the news that a lot of places are overflown.
To day I have stopped between Ponte Ulla and Outeiro in a new place Pensión Recidensia Victoria at the N-525. Very modern, but a lot of building noise inside the house all afternoon. Wifi is very good, lunch was good. Room and breakfast 35€ on booking.com.
Tomorrow Santiago and the end of my last camino I guess.
I have enjoyed the Invierno since I like walking alone in peace and quiet.
Thanks to all of you Inviernofriends in the forum, and especially @peregrina2000, who made me interested in this camino! The guidebook was good help.

 

[MikeJS]

I hope you have a dry day for your walk into Santiago.

 

[ranthr]

@MikeJS , I got a shower walking into Santiago.

When you have been on the Invierno, you nearly get a shock when you see all the peregrinos outside the cathedral after 12 mass. Went to the pilgrimoffice but there were hundreds in a queue, so I gave it up and went to my hotel.

 

[ranthr]

Never seen so much peregrinos in a queue to get a compostela or to get into the cathedral.

 

[MikeJS]

Never seen so much peregrinos in a queue to get a compostela or to get into the cathedral.

I walked from Alicante last year on the Sureste and the Invierno. Excluding the short section of the Frances that I had to walk, I only saw about 7 other peregrinos!

 

[Ribeirasacra]

Never seen so much peregrinos in a queue to get a compostela or to get into the cathedral.

All of those pilgrims must have come as a shock.
Pleasure to have met you. When you came across the boar, hope you remembered Irene's advice never get between the parent and youngsters.
Glad you you made it, did you queue up and get a Compostela? Just wondered if the two a day stamp rule applies to this route.

 

[MikeJS]

All of those pilgrims must have come as a shock.
Pleasure to have met you. When you came across the boar, hope you remembered Irene's advice never get between the parent and youngsters.
Glad you you made it, did you queue up and get a Compostela? Just wondered if the two a day stamp rule applies to this route.

I have 3 composteli (sp?) and have never had 2 stamps a day at any time!

 

[ranthr]

All of those pilgrims must have come as a shock.
Pleasure to have met you. When you came across the boar, hope you remembered Irene's advice never get between the parent and youngsters.
Glad you you made it, did you queue up and get a Compostela? Just wondered if the two a day stamp rule applies to this route.

Thanks for my stay in your home!
Oh no, I did not meet a boar, I meant to say I was more afraid of going to meet a boar with kids than the barking loose dogs!
I did queue the next day because I wanted one person to be registrated on Camino de Invierno, it took 2,5 hours, and when I got the compostela I realized the camino was not on the paper, so I do not think the Invierno statistic raised because of me. I managed to get two stamps from Monforte de Lemos, tried to say something about my onestampdays but I do not think the Spanish guy that served me understood much English.
Anyway I am glad I walked the Invierno, beautiful day from Diomondi to Chantada. A bit sad I “lost” Monte de Faro seeing nothing in the thick fog.
After som rainy days in Santiago I am now in Madrid heading home from frio in Spain to calor in Norway.

 

[ranthr]

I have 3 composteli (sp?) and have never had 2 stamps a day at any time!

Guess it depends on who you meet at the pilgrimsoffice, on my longer caminos nobody asked for two stamps, but I was denied the compostela when I walked from Porto because I had taken a bus a strech from the coast route to the ordinary camino in Portugal.
I think languagebarriers can make problems that really isn’t a problem.

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Hey, charrito, I had tried to post our selfie on my blog, but the program wouldn't let me. I tried it again when I got home and it is now there. It was great meeting you!

It sounds to me like @ranthr found that the roundabout way has been "demoted" and the river walk "promoted" as the official way out of Barco. The guide talks about the river walk exit from town but it was all kind of unclear to me. But it sounds like we need to straighten things out, because I agree that the roundabout way is not the most direct way to Arcos. At least that's what I think if my memory is correct.

If I ever get as far as the Invierno this year, I promise I will go for a stroll in O Barco to check it out! :OD

I had problems with leaving O Barco too, last time.

/BP

 

[KinkyOne]

So I am assuming that anyone who spends the night in Barco just has to get down to the river walk to carry on? The former "main route" is now just for those who are going up to the albergue at Xagoaza?

That was my impression in 2014 but after the little wooden bridge the arrows and scallop shells were no longer there...
Anyway, there was some confusion about the Camino after O Barco as I remember. I did find my way but I'm almost sure it wasn't all on the "true" Camino

 

[KinkyOne]

I haven't been on the Invierno for three years now, so my memory is fading. This is another area where I am going to need help when I go to edit the guide. Is Bendillo the little town with the small hermita on the right as you walk up into town? I'm thinking that can't be right since ranthr is talking about walking down into Bendillo. I admit I am confused, but we will figure this out, we've figured out more confusing things for past editions!

Bendillo is like the highest point of zje day I think. Camino goes (went in 2014) through the village and there is an old lavadora at the end of it. After lavadora and sweet water you have to retrace like 10 meters back to the Camino and then you are descending.

 

[KinkyOne]

...
For those who walk the Invierno to get a Compostela two stamps a day is really a problem. There is nowhere to get a stamp. Even the museum in the cloister in Monforte had not a stamp.
I usually no longer queue up for a compostela anymore, but I perhaps do this time to tell the pilgrimoffice that this is a problem,at least if you go short stages.

Hi, @ranthr ,

I'm so sorry to see your thread only today. But I'm enjoying it nevertheless. I won't be surprised that we were in Santiago at the same days either
But what I wanted to add to this quote is that even the Museum has some sort of stamp. Maybe not a pilgrim orientated one but they sure have a business stamp as every bar or firm or... In the end if you want to obtain Compostela you just don't care what kind they are, do you?

 

[KinkyOne]

...
After som rainy days in Santiago I am now in Madrid heading home from frio in Spain to calor in Norway.

Well, I knew it. @LTfit was in Madrid on the same day as was I and you were leaving. Told you

I'm sharing your emotions about the weather as I started in Madrid and all the way to Fisterra there wasn't a day with more than 25C. Most of them rainy. Of course... And when I came home it's just the same, some sun, some rain, never over 30. I think I should go for VdlP in August

But, really, your last Camino???

 

[ranthr]

That was my impression in 2014 but after the little wooden bridge the arrows and scallop shells were no longer there...
Anyway, there was some confusion about the Camino after O Barco as I remember. I did find my way but I'm almost sure it wasn't all on the "true" Camino

Now there were lots of arrows after the little bridge at the end of riverpromenade. You passed what to me seemed to be some sort of camplivingarea, then walked along the river up to Arcos.

 

[Charrito]

If I ever get as far as the Invierno this year, I promise I will go for a stroll in O Barco to check it out! :OD

I had problems with leaving O Barco too, last time.

/BP

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

"Perhaps they show up dinnertime at Carpinteiras since the O Guerra is closed " Is O'guerra closed??? Is it closed every day, or just on Sundays? I have a booking there for the day after Santo Estevo, bummer!

Probably not important but anyway... The O Guerra was closed on June 29 for descanso familiar, "family vacation". The note on the door said that there was no given date that they could tell they would open again, but that they would "let us know" when that happens. Good for business in Carpinteiro hostal, I guess, where 9 pilgrims lodged when I was there a few weeks ago... Although, according to the Invierno Forum Guide, the polideportivo is also available.

BP

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Started out from Ponferrada today in nice but a bit chilly weather. Seeing that it was hotter at home in the north of Norway,was a bit surprising.
The markings were good along the way.
In Toral de Merayo the only bar open at 9.30 was the Bar Nogal.
The only place I wondered about the way today was out of TdM. Reading the guide I was waiting for a sharp climb shortly thereafter, but it took some time and the climb was not sharp.
Out of Villalibre when you cross the N536 beforePrisranza, at the Centro Social, I guess, was a sign at the camino, saying Albergue the Villalibre, and a number to call
In Priaranza del Bierzo the camino took off from the N-536 and went down through town. No open bar. The camino joined the highway again just before the Mirador de Santallo. Since there was a pavement all along the road, I guess that would have been shorter and easier, at least in muddy weather.
InSantalla I took the hihgway looking for a bar. Saw nothing before friendly bar Ronda. When leaving the bar senora showed me where to go to get to the camino. The camino out of town was on a dustroad and later on path to the point where you crossed the highway to start the climb to Villavieja. Before the Camino went up on a narrow path
to the road, there were arrows to Albergue the Villavieja. Here as well I guess it would have been easier and vleaner stay on the pavement on the side of the mainroad.
Anyway I decided to take the camino up to Villavieja. Guess if I had not, I might have regretted that. I would like to say: Do not in bad weather.
The weather today was dry and not very hot, so I was not exhausted.
In Villavieja I did not see the albergue along the camino, perhaps it was higher up and I missed the sign. I wouldn’t have stayed ther anyway and was more concerned about the villagr dogs. Heard some nasty barking and passed a big dog which did not bother about me, so I was a bit disappointed having bought from US and carried a dog dazzler too scare the dogs away.
Happy to reach the castillo before it closed at 2pm. Free for peregrinos, even got a small souvenir. The girl in charge told me there had been 3 peregrinos ahead of me and I even met one of them leaving when I arrived.
Then the toad down too Borrenes staying in the Casa Rural Cornatel, clean but a bit overprised. Evening meal reminded me about how fed up of caminomeals you might be after some weeks on the camino, but this was my first day. Even the tinto was not good. Anyway I am glad I did not have to take the next climb to day.
Tomorrow a short day Puente Domingo Florez.

Thank you for these reports! I have just completed the Invierno, late July, and I am about to start a thread about it, focusing on the Invierno Forum Guide! Now I see you have already covered some of the things I was going to comment about, so it will be easier than I thought.

Thanks for lovely pictures as well. But I cannot post any of mine, they are always too large to upload??? Anyway thanks for telling your journey!!

God tur!

BP

 

[peregrina2000]

Thank you for these reports! I have just completed the Invierno, late July, and I am about to start a thread about it, focusing on the Invierno Forum Guide! Now I see you have already covered some of the things I was going to comment about, so it will be easier than I thought.

Thanks for lovely pictures as well. But I cannot post any of mine, they are always too large to upload??? Anyway thanks for telling your journey!!

God tur!

BP

Wait a minute BP, you can’t leave us hanging. We are still waiting for the rest of the Mozárabe. I am especially interested to hear about your adventure with the river vs. bridge crossing after Yelbes.

But your Invierno comments will be very much appreciated for next year’s revisions.

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Wait a minute BP, you can’t leave us hanging. We are still waiting for the rest of the Mozárabe. I am especially interested to hear about your adventure with the river vs. bridge crossing after Yelbes.

But your Invierno comments will be very much appreciated for next year’s revisions.

Oh right, Yelbes... You won't believe it...!! :OD

 

[peregrina2000]

Oh right, Yelbes... You won't believe it...!! :OD

I am starting to go through this year's Invierno comments to gather info for the guide revision. @Bad Pilgrim, I see you were going to post some comments, that would be great! Of course, the world is still waiting to hear about Yelbes on the Mozarabe.

 

[Annette london]

I am starting to go through this year's Invierno comments to gather info for the guide revision. @Bad Pilgrim, I see you were going to post some comments, that would be great! Of course, the world is still waiting to hear about Yelbes on the Mozarabe.

Ha ha
Just discovered this thread!!

Thank you @ranthr and @peregrina2000 Laurie
Downloaded and printed the latest 2018 guide for the Invierno this week

Now....just need to walk it if I can persuade Himself!!
Best wishes and thanks
Annette

 

[peregrina2000]

I'm also going through Oz Annie's report, which may also be helpful

https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/start-invierno-6-april-18.53774/

Annette,
If you are in the mood, any notes from the field would be extremely welcome. I will be getting started on the 2019 version as soon as I cull through all of the posts on this forum from 2018, and there are a lot more this year than last year!!!

 

[Annette london]

I'm also going through Oz Annie's report, which may also be helpful

https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/start-invierno-6-april-18.53774/

Annette,
If you are in the mood, any notes from the field would be extremely welcome. I will be getting started on the 2019 version as soon as I cull through all of the posts on this forum from 2018, and there are a lot more this year than last year!!!

Will definitely keep a diary when we walk it
Was thinking of doing it maybe June/ next year2019
If you can,

Let me know when the 2019 version is done and I will print it off and work out the stages for us to do

Those photographs from @ranthr were fantastic and have indeed whetted my appetite!!
With best wishes and thanks for all the hard work
Annette

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

I am starting to go through this year's Invierno comments to gather info for the guide revision. @Bad Pilgrim, I see you were going to post some comments, that would be great! Of course, the world is still waiting to hear about Yelbes on the Mozarabe.

Oh no, I am very late with this. But yes, I will finish my report (a few remaining stages on the Mozárabe) and then I will send you my observations on the Invierno!

/BP

 

[peregrina2000]

In Priaranza del Bierzo the camino took off from the N-536 and went down through town. No open bar. The camino joined the highway again just before the Mirador de Santallo. Since there was a pavement all along the road, I guess that would have been shorter and easier, at least in muddy weather.

Hi, @ranthr, trying to piece things together, I am comparing what you wrote with what Bad Pilgrim wrote, and think that I understand this part of the route.

Is it correct to say the following:

In Priaranza del Bierzo, the camino leaves the N-536 and goes through town. Leaving town, there is a turn-off that may be hard to see (one 2018 pilgrim said that a mojón may be hidden behind bushes). The path rejoins the highway before the Mirador de Santallo, a well known scenic overlook.

Thanks!

 

[Charrito]

Hi, @ranthr, trying to piece things together, I am comparing what you wrote with what Bad Pilgrim wrote, and think that I understand this part of the route.

Is it correct to say the following:

In Priaranza del Bierzo, the camino leaves the N-536 and goes through town. Leaving town, there is a turn-off that may be hard to see (one 2018 pilgrim said that a mojón may be hidden behind bushes). The path rejoins the highway before the Mirador de Santallo, a well known scenic overlook.

Thanks!

I'll tell you all about this once I get round to my latest revisions. Soon, I promise.

 

[peregrina2000]

I'll tell you all about this once I get round to my latest revisions. Soon, I promise.

No rush, Charrito, I know you are out of commission for a while. I am just posting all my questions as I go through the year’s comments. With both you and Kinky offline for a while, things are pretty quiet! Wishing you a speedy recovery.

 

[Charrito]

No rush, Charrito, I know you are out of commission for a while. I am just posting all my questions as I go through the year’s comments. With both you and Kinky offline for a while, things are pretty quiet! Wishing you a speedy recovery.

Back to the ophthalmologist at the hospital tomorrow; hopefully, I'll be given the visto bueno (¡nunca mejor dicho!) to get back to normal.

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Hi, @ranthr, trying to piece things together, I am comparing what you wrote with what Bad Pilgrim wrote, and think that I understand this part of the route.

Is it correct to say the following:

In Priaranza del Bierzo, the camino leaves the N-536 and goes through town. Leaving town, there is a turn-off that may be hard to see (one 2018 pilgrim said that a mojón may be hidden behind bushes). The path rejoins the highway before the Mirador de Santallo, a well known scenic overlook.

Thanks!

Yes Yes Yes,

That is what I meant in the other Invierno thread. I used the word Path incorrectly. The Guide is perfectly fine as it is. It was just that the mojón at the turn-off was overgrown! There has been no changes here since 2015.

 

[Charrito]

Laurie:

I've just sent you a 4-page file with some updates from my last two Inviernos, but just from Ponferrada to Monforte de Lemos.