LIVE from the Camino Live from Camino de San Salvador

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Day 0:

My first time ‘live’ (delayed a day or two) reporting.

I finished the via de la plata in Astorga today (9 days from Morille near Salamanca where I left off in 2020 due to pandemic). I got a final stamp from Astorga cathedral and headed to bus station where a bus to Leon was leaving imminently. Perfect timing.

So many Frances pilgrims in both cities. They seemed to indicate that while there are a lot of people, they were finding beds without too much trouble and sometimes booking ahead. Hoping the Salvador is less busy.

In León, I picked up the Salvador credential from the Benedictine Albergue, shopped for some food for the walk, did laundry at the laundromat, ate dinner, and treated myself to a private room next to the cathedral after finishing the plata.

I’m excited about the mountains of San Salvador after hundreds of kms of flat farm roads of the plata. Hope the good weather holds up.

 

[sun is shining]

Are you planning on taking the Munisterio variant after Llamos?

 

[fb1]

Day 1:

León to La Robla, 28.7km, 477m elevation gain

I got a late start from León (well… 9am) and headed to the Parador San Marcus. I followed the trail along the river for as far as I could before joining the camino along the road. I was happy to leave the asphalt right after Carbajal. And instantly, I knew this was the camino for me. A couple of sharp climbs with good views, and even some benches and picnic table rest stops along the way. I think I climbed more in this stage than the entire 9 days on the via de la plata just before.

The weather was perfect. I didn’t see any pilgrims all day. I arrived La Robla at 3pm and went straight to the Albergue, which I had for myself for the night. Surprising as I read on another thread that it was full a few days ago. The Albergue is on the way out of town and I should have stopped at the supermarket before arriving. After showering, I walked back to the supermarket and bought supplies for dinner and the next day. The kitchen was quite well equipped. No wifi at the Albergue but the cell signal was quite strong.

I’m excited about the next few days on this camino!

 

[David Tallan]

If you liked the first day, you are going to  love the next few.

 

[fb1]

Are you planning on taking the Munisterio variant after Llamos?

I haven’t look that far yet and don’t know about the variants on this route. Would love to hear your thoughts if you have any to share.

 

[sun is shining]

I haven’t look that far yet and don’t know about the variants on this route. Would love to hear your thoughts if you have any to share.

It’s a quick detour into the mountains with wonderful views just after Llanos. Are you in La Robla tonight? If yes I’ll try to make a comprehensive post about the variant tonight. It’s well worth it but a bit more tricky than the standard route.

 

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Day 2:

La Robla to Poladura, 23.0km, 617m elevation gain

I started at 8am to beautiful blue skies. The first 14km to Buiza were quiet and pleasant. I stopped in La Pola de Gordón at the El Meson de Miguel corner bar for 2 cafe con leches with 2 accompanying tapas of tortilla. After Buiza, the fun really began. The climb and descent were far more beautiful than I would have imagined. I only saw one group of locals from Oviedo hiking anll day and stoped to chat for a while. After our chat, I suddenly saw blue skies had changed to dark clouds as I descended the high point. Then distant thunder and lightning. Quite a spectacle. As I arrived in San Martin de Tercia, the thunderstorm finally caught up to me and instantly started pouring rain and a bit of hail. So the last 10 minutes I was running to the Albergue in Poladura, where I arrived at 1:40pm.

I went to the restaurant/bar for a beer. I had booked dinner ahead of time but since I arrived earlier than expected, I asked if I could have lunch instead. Wow, 5 courses of savory plates followed by coffee and dessert and plentiful wine. I was stuffed and even packed a to-go container for dinner and tomorrow. The lunch was 19.50 euro and was worth every penny (2 course dinner is 14).

Once again, I was the only person on the albergue. Guess I managed to start between bubbles of pilgrims. I haven’t seen a single pilgrim yet though the locals said they saw one pass earlier. Overall, a splendid day.

View attachment IMG_1096.jpeg

 

[sun is shining]

Hey, here’s just a quick overview over the variant (not much internet atm). After Llanos you leave town following the road for a few hundred meters. Once through the big bend you’ll see a trail leaving the road to your left (there are signs, see pics).

At first the trail goes straight through the forest (lovely!) without any changes in altitude. Once you reach an open section the “climbing” begins. As long as you have decent shoes, poles and reasonable fitness you should be fine. It’s steep up (there are metal stairs in some sections) but nothing that’s not doable if you’ve been to the mountains before. It is however steeper than anything else you’ll have encountered on the San Salvador.

So pretty much straight up over the rock, then an easy way down through the forest. Watch out towards the end as the Camino splits perpendicular to the main trail at some point.

Comparing notes with the people that took the road, seems like we had a much much nicer trail but it was obviously also a bit more exhausting. If you are trying to reach further than Benduenos it might be more challenging time wise.

 

[beliperegrina]

Thank you so much for sharing.
Further on, buen camino!

 

[KariannNor]

Day 2:

La Robla to Poladura, 23.0km, 617m elevation gain

I started at 8am to beautiful blue skies. The first 14km to Buiza were quiet and pleasant. I stopped in La Pola de Gordón at the El Meson de Miguel corner bar for 2 cafe con leches with 2 accompanying tapas of tortilla. After Buiza, the fun really began. The climb and descent were far more beautiful than I would have imagined. I only saw one group of locals from Oviedo hiking anll day and stoped to chat for a while. After our chat, I suddenly saw blue skies had changed to dark clouds as I descended the high point. Then distant thunder and lightning. Quite a spectacle. As I arrived in San Martin de Tercia, the thunderstorm finally caught up to me and instantly started pouring rain and a bit of hail. So the last 10 minutes I was running to the Albergue in Poladura, where I arrived at 1:40pm.

I went to the restaurant/bar for a beer. I had booked dinner ahead of time but since I arrived earlier than expected, I asked if I could have lunch instead. Wow, 5 courses of savory plates followed by coffee and dessert and plentiful wine. I was stuffed and even packed a to-go container for dinner and tomorrow. The lunch was 19.50 euro and was worth every penny (2 course dinner is 14).

Once again, I was the only person on the albergue. Guess I managed to start between bubbles of pilgrims. I haven’t seen a single pilgrim yet though the locals said they saw one pass earlier. Overall, a splendid day.

View attachment 170181

Do I have to book for dinner there ahead?

 

[davejsy]

This looks so beautiful, and I hope it continues as such for you. Buen Camino

 

[KariannNor]

Thanks for reports, following closely. One day behind you.

Buen Camino

 

[sun is shining]

better internet - more pics of the Munestiriu route

 

[sun is shining]

Do I have to book for dinner there ahead?

Yes - WhatsApp the restaurant at least a day ahead. I think they are closed on Tuesdays

 

[sun is shining]

Do I have to book for dinner there ahead?

You also have to book dinner in Pajares and Llamos de Someron

 

[KariannNor]

Yes - WhatsApp the restaurant at least a day ahead. I think they are closed on Tuesdays

Is it Poladura de la Tercia pilgrims hostel? The nr does not come up in WhatsApp? Need to know this, do I have to carry dinner then?

 

[sun is shining]

Hang on

 

[KariannNor]

You also have to book dinner in Pajares and Llamos de Someron

Ahh, this I didn't know, thanks! A little stressed now, know not that much Spanish to do it by phone so don't know what to do.

 

[KariannNor]

Thid got me really stressed now. Poladura, Pajares and Llamos? Shit, no charging went long away from town, now stressing back try translation someone call for me, shit. Don't want to come somewhere where nothing to eat? Why does Gronnze say not possible reservation then? Can someone please tell me where I have to try someone to call?

 

[KariannNor]

Now tried call Poladura albergue, she just said "no ingles" and said a lot very fast I could not understand, think she got angry. Stressed now, what to do? Is it the albergue or a restaurant I need to book dinner? Can you please tell me the name of the restaurant if so? And the other places?

 

[KariannNor]

If some of you speak English, can you please call me tell me where to call to book dinner? Im back in town La Pola de Grandes in an hour. +47 98800557

 

[sun is shining]

Is it Poladura de la Tercia pilgrims hostel? The nr does not come up in WhatsApp? Need to know this, do I have to carry dinner then?

+34 659 030 282

This is the number for the Posada in Poladura. WhatsApp works.

You need to let them know asap if you want food tomorrow. If they do not reply by one hour before shops close you need to buy supplies in Pola de Gordon. There are two supermarkets that should be open until 9pm (but double check).

The kitchen in the albergue in Poladura de la Tercia is well equipped. Microwave, fridge, stovetop.

 

[sun is shining]

My strong advice is to stop calling people. Not many will speak English but everyone can use a translator app on their phone if you *write* them on WhatsApp.

I’ll post below all the numbers you’ll need for the next few days plus when to message them.

 

[sun is shining]

1. Sort food for tomorrow in Poladura de la Tercia (see WhatsApp number for the Posada in the post above). Write, don’t call, that you will arrive tomorrow, stay at the albergue and want food (specify if you want lunch and / or dinner)

2. Albergue in Poladura de la Tercia. No need to contact them. The albergue will be unlocked so you can just go in when you arrive. The hospitaliera will come around at some point. If anything is wrong here is their WhatsApp number: +34 639 354 776

3. Albergue in Pajares. +34 645 930 092 again, no need to contact them, just turn up. If anything is wrong message Marisol on WhatsApp

4. Food for Pajares. This is the restaurant in town. Contact them now that you plan on arriving in two days and want lunch / dinner. Again, send a WhatsApp because it will be easier to communicate. +34 636 933 069

If you don’t plan on staying in Pajares, you can walk on to Llanos. ‪+34 656 28 46 03‬ tell them a day in advance if you want to stay there and eat dinner with them. We stayed there instead of Pajares and enjoyed it a lot - but it was a long day.

Next, please do not take the Munisteriu variant out of Llamos. You really shouldn’t be doing that in trainers or sandals

Final booking: Sandra at Benduenos. Wonderful not-for-profit donative a little bit off the Camino but oh so worth it. Contact Sandra here at least a day in advance that you want to stay here (food included) +34 674 671 706

After that you are good to go!

 

[sun is shining]

Ahh, this I didn't know, thanks! A little stressed now, know not that much Spanish to do it by phone so don't know what to do.

Just write per WhatsApp and forget about phoning. It will make your life much easier. Please follow outline the steps listed in my post below. All numbers work with WhatsApp. Let me know if you need any other help.

 

[KariannNor]

1. Sort food for tomorrow in Poladura de la Tercia (see WhatsApp number for the Posada in the post above). Write, don’t call, that you will arrive tomorrow, stay at the albergue and want food (specify if you want lunch and / or dinner)

2. Albergue in Poladura de la Tercia. No need to contact them. The albergue will be unlocked so you can just go in when you arrive. The hospitaliera will come around at some point. If anything is wrong here is their WhatsApp number: +34 639 354 776

3. Albergue in Pajares. +34 645 930 092 again, no need to contact them, just turn up. If anything is wrong message Marisol on WhatsApp

4. Food for Pajares. This is the restaurant in town. Contact them now that you plan on arriving in two days and want lunch / dinner. Again, send a WhatsApp because it will be easier to communicate. +34 636 933 069

If you don’t plan on staying in Pajares, you can walk on to Llanos. ‪+34 656 28 46 03‬ tell them a day in advance if you want to stay there and eat dinner with them. We stayed there instead of Pajares and enjoyed it a lot - but it was a long day.

Next, please do not take the Munisteriu variant out of Llamos. You really shouldn’t be doing that in trainers or sandals

Final booking: Sandra at Benduenos. Wonderful not-for-profit donative a little bit off the Camino but oh so worth it. Contact Sandra here at least a day in advance that you want to stay here (food included) +34 674 671 706

After that you are good to go!

WOW, thank you so much! Will do this now. Good I have trainers, ran back to town tried fix this. Embarrassing, offered money to someone at a bar to help call. Gave him nr to the alb, and he said after "cena reserva manjana ok", so maybe ok. Didn't know the WA thing. Will bring microwawe rubbish in case. Should have learned this now, went hungry to bed in Pola de Allande because only two restaurants booked. And paid 75E for dobbel room and the other didn't show up. Will do as you say, thank you so much! Hate this.

 

[sun is shining]

I’m sorry you are having such a hard time. But if you follow the above outline you should be fine. Have you thought about which places you want to sleep in? If you post them I can try to give you advice on the route.

 

[peregrina2000]

Stressed now, what to do? Is it the albergue or a restaurant I need to book dinner?

I think Ender’s guide ( I posted the link above) has all of these details— which places serve meals, which places you have to reserve, which towns have grocery stores, etc. I think you will be fine, and I completely agree with the suggestion that you communicate via WhatsApp. Text messages are much easier to understand for the people you are calling

 

[KariannNor]

I think Ender’s guide ( I posted the link above) has all of these details— which places serve meals, which places you have to reserve, which towns have grocery stores, etc. I think you will be fine, and I completely agree with the suggestion that you communicate via WhatsApp. Text messages are much easier to understand for the people you are calling

Yes I know, all of my problems is because my totally imcompetence and no interest in digital stuff. And really hoped walking without. F.eks don't have Wise Pilgrim on this walk because the PayPal thing don't let me use paying by phone from my bank. Just an example, typical me. Bought a huge powerbank, but stil phone problems also. But got help booking now. Time I really did not wanted to spend. But thank you so much trying help. I will survive.

 

[fb1]

The language issue is something that we can’t fault locals about. But with a bit of technology, it is a solvable problem as suggested here by others. WhatsApp is king in Spain and google translate makes it easier for both sides. Luckily, I speak Spanish (after many caminos) and have found that each person I spoke to wanted to help in any way they could to make pilgrim life better.

Also, please be mindful of the weather, especially over the mountain stages. It makes a huge difference in the experience and more importantly safety.

I especially want to recommend Bendueños and also El Rollu (3km after Mieres). Both are magical special places on this camino due to Sandra and Alba.

 

[fb1]

Day 3:

Poladura de la Tercia to Bendueños
30.1km, 1149m ascent, 1740m descent

I couldn’t imagine having an ever more epic day today after yesterday but indeed it was.

I had 3 options today: short day to Pajares, medium day to Llanos, or an epic day to Bendueños. Decided to start and see how the first set of climbs and downhill to Puerto de Pajares before deciding.

8am start and immediately started climbing. Reached the high point and was in awe of the amazing scenery. Then down to Puerta de Pajares where the Mirador cafeteria was open and indulged in 2 cafes con leche and a pastry while staring at the mountains and clouds below in the valley.

I decided to head towards Llanos via San Miguel del Rio instead of Pajares. Huge downhill! Lots of loose horses and cows. And I was on lookout for any working dogs near them. I had a small scare when a dog came running towards me in the middle of nowhere and got quite close but just as suddenly, he turned around and ran away.

I arrived Llanos at 1:15pm and had to decide whether to stay or continue. I wasn’t in a rush to finish the camino but saw that there was rain forecasted for tomorrow and I wanted to get as far as and down the mountain before potential rain. I ate lunch talking with the hospitalera. I decided I had the energy to go another 12km to Bendueños and called Sandra to confirm and she was happy to receive me.

First 5km along a small quiet road. I decided not to do the first alternate near Llanos as it was meant to be tough and I had already climbed and descended quite a bit. I took the second alternate as described in Ender’s guide. It certainly wasn’t flat with constant sharp yet short ups and downs. But a pleasant walk through the forest and I was happy not to be on the main road. And then finally the steep uphill to Bendueños.

I arrived at 5pm to be received first by Sandra’s son and then Sandra. Wow! What an absolutely magical experience there. The Albergue is impeccable. And Sandra is a wonder. We talked for a long time about so many things. And she brought some lentil stew and fruit and there was so much more available. I could write pages about the experience but I will just say that if you can make that a stop on your camino, I can’t recommend it enough. The tough final climb was laid back in dividends many times over. Thank you to @NadineK for the strong suggestion to make it here.

The past 2 days have been so wonderful making this my most favorite route. I am sure it will continue to become more popular each year.

 

[fb1]

Hey, here’s just a quick overview over the variant (not much internet atm). After Llanos you leave town following the road for a few hundred meters. Once through the big bend you’ll see a trail leaving the road to your left (there are signs, see pics).

At first the trail goes straight through the forest (lovely!) without any changes in altitude. Once you reach an open section the “climbing” begins. As long as you have decent shoes, poles and reasonable fitness you should be fine. It’s steep up (there are metal stairs in some sections) but nothing that’s not doable if you’ve been to the mountains before. It is however steeper than anything else you’ll have encountered on the San Salvador.

So pretty much straight up over the rock, then an easy way down through the forest. Watch out towards the end as the Camino splits perpendicular to the main trail at some point.

Comparing notes with the people that took the road, seems like we had a much much nicer trail but it was obviously also a bit more exhausting. If you are trying to reach further than Benduenos it might be more challenging time wise.

Thanks for the detailed info. I am posting one day delayed so I had already passed this. I did a long day from Poladura to Bendueños so passed the Munestiriu route as my legs were already well used for the day and took the 2nd alternate instead. It was also nice with quite a few ups and downs.

 

[NadineK]

View attachment 170243

This is the most beautiful photo! Well done on an epic stage.

 

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Day 4:
Bendueños to La Rollu
26.8km, 274m ascent, 581m descent

After yesterday’s epic mountain stage and a wonderful stay at Bendueños, I had a late slow start. Steep downhill to Campomanes and then flat mostly walking on asphalt. My body and legs were tired from the past 2 days and the road walking seemed tougher than the climbs. I stopped in Mieres and picked up for food and headed 3km further to Casa Alba in El Rollu. Oh my, she’s such a fun sweet person and her home is super comfortable. 3 rooms with 2 beds each, full kitchen. I finally met other pilgrims after not seeing any for 4 days. There were 4 of us there and we sat with Alba and she was pouring cider for us. So fun! And her adorably sweet dog Lidi, which was welcome after all the Pueblo dogs that have been barking and snarling at me lately.

I would strongly recommend a stay at Bendueños followed by El Rollu before the final 15km stroll into Ovideo. Both are perfect way to relax after the tough mountain stages.

View attachment IMG_1210.jpeg

 

[fb1]

If you liked the first day, you are going to  love the next few.

Indeed the Salvador more than lived up to expectations. A perfect camino, one that I’m certain to walk again.

 

[fb1]

Day 5:
El Rollu to Oviedo
14.5km, 440m ascent, 505m descent

After a wonderful stay at Casa Alba, I got started at 915am and had a leisurely stroll to Oviedo. One sharp hill to climb to get the legs and heart going one final time on the Salvador. The last 6km were the best and most peaceful arrival to any city I have experienced over many caminos. Beautiful green hills, views of Oviedo in distance, no car noises, and funny enough even the dogs were chill and didn’t bark at all. It was the perfect end to a perfect camino.

I visited the cathedral to get a stamp and Salvadorana (no cost!) and even included a visit to the cathedral. (Ender’s guide indicated 4euro). Then ate at the wonderful restaurant Tierra Astur for menu del dia for 12euro, which was outstanding.

The combination of the 2 anchor cities of León and Oviedo, incredible mountain stages with jaw dropping views, cozy albergues especially Bendueños and Casa Alba, made for a perfect camino. This is now my most favorite route in Spain!

Totals:
5 days
123km
2957m elevation gain