I have just walked from Carrión to Cruz de Ferro, a fantastic walk. I’m writing to thank various pilgrims for their kindness when I had two separate bouts of back ailments. I should say that I don’t have a history of back trouble, and it may have been initiated by an ill fitting rucksack on which the chest strap kept becoming detached.
The first problems started between San Nicolás and Sahagun. The pain came very suddenly and it felt as if my spine was twisting. I was having to stop every 100 metres or so. Unusually, there was no one around, and I realised I would not get to Sahagun without help. Then a Chilean cyclist, Ignacio, stopped and offered to take my rucksack to my hotel, which I gratefully accepted. One of his friends gave me paracetamol. Then some New Zealanders arrived, including Hamish, who kindly accompanied me on my slow walk to the hotel. We found we had a lot of interests in common, and he was patient during my frequent stops.
That evening in Sahagun I stocked up on ibuprofen gel, and after a decent night’s sleep I felt ready to tackle the next stage. It turned out after about 6km that I was being optimistic. June from Florida generously carried my bag as well as hers, and I was persuaded to take a taxi back to Sahagun, where I had a back massage.
The following morning I walked without problems from El Burgo to Mansilla, and the back massage seemed to have made all the difference. The rucksack still wasn’t quite right but was no longer causing problems. I walked four further days, including into León with Hamish and the New Zealanders, and on the long day from Mazarife to Astorga I was overtaking people which for me is unusual as I’m quite a slow walker. So I’d had five trouble free days. On Monday evening Keith, Marlene and Diane from Canada adjusted the residual issues with the rucksack.
Even the climb to Cruz de Ferro seemed easy, though a photo at the summit ominously shows me leaning to one side. The back problems came on without any warning, and by Manjarin I was having to stop frequently and apply gel. Soon afterwards I could barely move and felt sick with pain. It must have been physiological as the rucksack had been adjusted the previous night (though there may have been a design fault with the chest strap). This was where a group of pilgrims including Fernando from Mexico mercifully arrived and helped me to a nearby road, where they called a taxi and even paid the fare, bless them. I ended up in Ponferrada Hospital where I had an injection and was prescribed pain killers and told to avoid walking for a few days. This worked out ok, as I was already booked to take a train to Madrid today and fly home tomorrow.
I’ve had a great week, and the people who helped me encapsulate the spirit of the Camino. Sorry I haven’t been able to mention you all by name, but rest assured that I am truly grateful. I did see Fernando in Molinaseca on my way back from the pharmacy and was able to thank him. A few other people waved, whom I didn’t recognise, and it now occurs to me that they may also have been my helpers. If so, thank you.