Je m'en vais! I'm off!

[Anna Cameron]

Olivier dropped me in front of the Gare de Toulon, and the TER to Arles, via Marseilles has just just left the station.
Thanks to many friends, old and new, I have had an amazing, emotional 10 days in Toulon. How many of us have the good fortune to take part in 5 days of continuous celebration, recognizing the 100th Birthday of a wonderful friend, survivor of WWII, who, 100 years and 1 week, still plays etudes de Chopin and lieders de Schubert at his grand piano, then spends hours at his computer, communicating with friends across the globe? I am so blessed and thankful to my adopted French family, and their community in Toulon, for the hospitality and good times I've enjoyed the past few days.
Now the Pilgrimage begins. 2 nights à l'Auberge du Pelerin at Arles, then starting Monday, 9 mai ( my birthday!) towards Toulouse or a bit further over the next few weeks. Thank you, @anamcara, @mspath, @Paul-CH and Janet Leitch and Australian Friends of the Camino at home in Oz, for all the good advice and support that got me here. More to follow.

 

[mspath]

Anna Cameron,
What happy news you share! Now you are truly on your way. May it all go well. Bon chemin and Bon anniversaire.

 

[jl]

Good to hear that you have had such a wonderful time before you begin the walking part of your pilgrimage. The journey you have made to visit and celebrate with friends is part of your pilgrimage, but now, no doubt, the hard work begins! I will await with bated breath to hear what plans you have added, and what ones have gone out the window! I will look forward to reading (and later hearing) all about this "road less travelled", Remember to be kind to yourself and take one step at a time. Ultreya, Janet

 

[Anna Cameron]

Good to hear that you have had such a wonderful time before you begin the walking part of your pilgrimage. The journey you have made to visit and celebrate with friends is part of your pilgrimage, but now, no doubt, the hard work begins! I will await with bated breath to hear what plans you have added, and what ones have gone out the window! I will look forward to reading (and later hearing) all about this "road less travelled", Remember to be kind to yourself and take one step at a time. Ultreya, Janet

Thank you, @jl, thank you, @mspath. I couldn't do it without my Camino Family.

 

[Roland49]

Hope you enjoy your Via Tolosana! Take your time in Arles, a wonderful and enchanting city.

Bon chemin!

 

[AJGuillaume]

Looking forward to your walk on the Voie d'Arles, @Anna Cameron ! It's on our list of pilgrimages, and I have been planning, using the MMDD guide.

Happy Birthday! Joyeux Anniversaire !
Et Bon Chemin !

 

[jouffroy47]

Olivier dropped me in front of the Gare de Toulon, and the TER to Arles, via Marseilles has just just left the station.
Thanks to many friends, old and new, I have had an amazing, emotional 10 days in Toulon. How many of us have the good fortune to take part in 5 days of continuous celebration, recognizing the 100th Birthday of a wonderful friend, survivor of WWII, who, 100 years and 1 week, still plays etudes de Chopin and lieders de Schubert at his grand piano, then spends hours at his computer, communicating with friends across the globe? I am so blessed and thankful to my adopted French family, and their community in Toulon, for the hospitality and good times I've enjoyed the past few days.
Now the Pilgrimage begins. 2 nights à l'Auberge du Pelerin at Arles, then starting Monday, 9 mai ( my birthday!) towards Toulouse or a bit further over the next few weeks. Thank you, @anamcara, @mspath, @Paul-CH and Janet Leitch and Australian Friends of the Camino at home in Oz, for all the good advice and support that got me here. More to follow.

I love this route ! Ultreïa... enjoy ! I hope you will continue to post--if you're on Facebook there's a group dedicated to this route https://www.facebook.com/groups/2087986454769678

 

[AJGuillaume]

if you're on Facebook there's a group dedicated to this route https://www.facebook.com/groups/2087986454769678

A very good FB group, with very helpful and knowledgeable members!

 

[SabsP]

Happy birthday and Bon Chemin!

I love your OP. Full of joy and thankfulness!

Merci.

 

[Sandrapf99]

Bon Chemin!!! Enjoy every minute, even the tough days that may come your way.

 

[StephenT]

Anna
Bon chemin de ma part as well

....et bon anniversaire too of course

I'm becoming excited as well - I hope to be about a month or so behind you - arriving in Paris mid-June then on to Avignon and Arles, then onwards from there towards Toulouse....

Ultreia....!

Amities
Stephen - NZ

 

[Anna Cameron]

Merci à tous! A birthday phone call from my son in USA at 6:30 am today reminded me of pilgrim etiquette (forgot to set to vibrate at bedtime!!). I scurried outside to have a lovely chat. Then later, a call from Oz: my daughter and the grandies ringing at bedtime in Adelaide but it was afternoon in the Musée Départemental Arles Antique, and I was "shushed" outside again! Tomorrow I start walking finally, after a crisis of confidence that kept me in Arles an extra day. Sunny weather and I've met a fellow pelerine who is also booked in the Auberge at St Gilles tomorrow- her 4th Chemin and she assures me the 21kms are not too arduous (and she is only booking 1 day ahead). I'll leave Arles with some regrets, I really love this historical city.

 

[Anna Cameron]

A very good FB group, with very helpful and knowledgeable members!

Yes, thanks, I'm a member of this FB group already, but seem to gravitate more towards the Camino Forum. I know the members of the Via Tolosana group are very knowledgeable and I will check in there, too. (I just dislike FB in general more and more recently).

 

[Former member 99290]

Bonjour Anna.

Have just seen your thread. Yeah, you are on your way. Couldn’t agree more about Arles - a wonderful town.

Wishing you a TRES BON CHEMIN! Loved the Arles Way - hope you will too. Bon courage

 

[Anna Cameron]

Bonjour Anna.

Have just seen your thread. Yeah, you are on your way. Couldn’t agree more about Arles - a wonderful town.

Wishing you a TRES BON CHEMIN! Loved the Arles Way - hope you will too. Bon courage

Bonjour Jenny, yesterday, first day, was difficult but I made it to St Gilles finally and was welcomed and rehydrated at the accueil pelerins et la Maison Marcel Avignon. Saw no one at all en route and lost sight of any balisage and finally took to the D572n autoroute to arrive at last. Today will be better, I've lightened my sac and sent a packet of clothes ahead to Olivier's flat in Puteaux. I must say, the way markings are quite sparse or completely absent on that first leg out of Arles, and this is the opinion of all the pilgrims I met here, French and others, not just my view! But, on y vas, ça ira mieux aujourd'hui !

 

[Former member 49149]

Olivier dropped me in front of the Gare de Toulon, and the TER to Arles, via Marseilles has just just left the station.
Thanks to many friends, old and new, I have had an amazing, emotional 10 days in Toulon. How many of us have the good fortune to take part in 5 days of continuous celebration, recognizing the 100th Birthday of a wonderful friend, survivor of WWII, who, 100 years and 1 week, still plays etudes de Chopin and lieders de Schubert at his grand piano, then spends hours at his computer, communicating with friends across the globe? I am so blessed and thankful to my adopted French family, and their community in Toulon, for the hospitality and good times I've enjoyed the past few days.
Now the Pilgrimage begins. 2 nights à l'Auberge du Pelerin at Arles, then starting Monday, 9 mai ( my birthday!) towards Toulouse or a bit further over the next few weeks. Thank you, @anamcara, @mspath, @Paul-CH and Janet Leitch and Australian Friends of the Camino at home in Oz, for all the good advice and support that got me here. More to follow.

Anna, sorry I missed your birthday, as I have just now paid attention to your thread. I will add you to my calendar - I have two others marked in that day as well. Another anniversary but not of a birthday, so I will not forget. What a beautiful start for you. Such an inspirational person, your centennial friend! I will now keep an eye on your thread, and thank you for posting.

 

[Former member 99290]

Bonjour Jenny, yesterday, first day, was difficult but I made it to St Gilles finally and was welcomed and rehydrated at the accueil pelerins et la Maison Marcel Avignon. Saw no one at all en route and lost sight of any balisage and finally took to the D572n autoroute to arrive at last. Today will be better, I've lightened my sac and sent a packet of clothes ahead to Olivier's flat in Puteaux. I must say, the way markings are quite sparse or completely absent on that first leg out of Arles, and this is the opinion of all the pilgrims I met here, French and others, not just my view! But, on y vas, ça ira mieux aujourd'hui !

Sorry to hear that Anna. As wonderful as Arles is, we found (as others often do) that the days between Arles and Montpelier were the least appealing. I don’t recall about the way marking but I was with Domi - and two others for the first few days - so between us we must have managed.

Also I don’t know if you saw this on my blog but we took a bus from Vendargues into Montpelier due to what we’d read and heard about the walk in. It was a tough decision for me - I think it was the first time I’d taken a bus on any étape - but in the end, I didn’t regret it.

There are notes on my blog about the stage from Galargues to Vendargues regarding signposting and how some enterprising folk in certain towns had lobbied successfully for changes to the GR route (which had followed the Chemin until then). The purpose was to take pilgrims and other hikers off the Original Way and into their towns. I know our walk was in 2016 but it might be worthwhile you reading what I wrote on that day (it was Day 3 for us) as it explains how we followed the Chemin and not ‘the new GR). If you don’t still have the blog link I’ll send it to you.

Also, depending on where you get to - if you go beyond Toulouse, there is an option for a train to Pibrac. We did that and avoided many kms of soulless walking through the outskirts and around the airport. Had breakfast in Pibrac and off we went.

Bon courage. Et bon chemin. ❤

 

[Anna Cameron]

Anna, sorry I missed your birthday, as I have just now paid attention to your thread. I will add you to my calendar - I have two others marked in that day as well. Another anniversary but not of a birthday, so I will not forget. What a beautiful start for you. Such an inspirational person, your centennial friend! I will now keep an eye on your thread, and thank you for posting.

Thank you, Kirkie, for your affirming message. If you saw my post/reply to @anamcara earlier today, I had a challenging first étape to St Gilles but with a happy ending. Today, my second étape, to Vauvert, was much better overall, and beautiful at certain points, but still challenging due to the complete solitude the entire day, and worries about dwindling water reserve again (nowhere at all to replenish water). But, the balisage/way marking was much more evident and easier to follow. I am delighted with my accommodation tonight chez Mme Sylvie Brouès, Chambre d'hôtes Maison Porte St-Louis - highly recommended!
I have realised with humility over these first 2 days that my ability and endurance have declined since my Camino Francès, Sept 2018. I never was one to count the kilometres or go for speed, but I now understand that I need to plan shorter étapes. And, it is essential to book accommodation least 2 days ahead, so I'm using MMDD to get me organized. It's strange that beds are so scarce on this Chemin and yet I see no one on the Chemin as I walk. I guess I really am slow and everyone else is ahead of me! But, I don't have an essential endpoint this time, I'm focusing on the day by day - and I just LOVE being in France and speaking French again. On to Gallargues tomorrow.

 

[Former member 99290]

Dear Anna.

So glad to hear your second day was more enjoyable. . It’s a funny thing about having to book ahead when you rarely see another pilgrim. We found this on our recent Chemin du Piemont - where we saw 3 pilgrims in as many weeks. We stayed in a few special gites communale and a convent - but otherwise we were opting for private rooms. Sometimes we phoned 2 or 3 before we found a place. A few times we had to change our étape to be sure to have accommodation.

Not only was accommodation limited but we came to understand, at least on the Piemont, that for many hosts providing accommodation (and demi pension) may not be their only activity - and they may only have a few beds or rooms. If family or friends are visiting, for example, or they were otherwise busy, they may not be able to take a pilgrim.

We ended up doing as you are - booking a day or two ahead. Arriving in a small town or village - a long way from the next - and unable to find a bed (or something to eat for that matter) was not an acceptable option.

As for distances, I hear you! On previous Caminos we’ve usually averaged 25-30 km days. But on our recent walk, we discovered the joy of 20-25 kms (even less a few times) - those stages left us feeling like we’d done a good days walking without being exhausted, particularly when climbing is involved. I can see that may be the way of the future for us - taking more time.

Sounds to me like you are doing things just right - adapting as you go along. Much to enjoy in the days ahead.

Amitié.

 

[jl]

Watching your journey with interest Anna. I tend to lurk here in the background. I am glad that you had an enjoyable birthday, and that things are going well even though a few issues with water and waymarks. there is nothing wrong with taking it slower, shortening distance and such like. As I always say "it is YOUR Camino / Chemin. I am really looking forward to hearing even more about this lovely way and about St Gilles on your return because that is a pilgrimage destination in its own right and it will be my destination in a few years! As I have said many times - one step at a time! Like you, another of our Adelaide friends, on a different way in Spain, has found that he has limited the distance he travels. I think it may be a three letter word - age! As we get older we accept we can't go as fast or as far, nor do we want to, and we are much more content to "stop and smell the roses" on our journeys. Enjoy being able to communicate with the locals, enjoy that wonderful french countryside, and continue to keep us informed of your journey when you can. Bonne route, Janet

 

[Anna Cameron]

Dear Jenny, dear @jl, and all others sending me ❤ and support, thank you! Writing this on the terrasse of a great cafe/restaurant in Gallargues-le-Montueux, waiting until 6pm when my hospitalière returns from Arles to welcome me. Today, day 3, was better again, partly because I did a much shorter étape, only 13.5 kms - that was on the advice of Marie-Jo et Jean Marie, hosts at Saint Gilles, who rang ahead for me 2 days ago, little accommodation available but they know the host here. Today was also improved because I had walking companions: a French family group I'd met at St Gilles, who turned up today just as I was turning to go back and check the balisage, because suddenly there were no markings at a crossroads in an isolated farm area. I told them I would follow them which was a happy solution for all. I felt better when even Bertrand (papa) stopped more than once, because the GR markings had disappeared! At least, today there were a few locals and we could ask for directions when lost.
Jenny, your reduced étapes of 20-25 kms are still longer than mine, I must say. Tomorrow, due to NO vacancies in any locations further ahead, I am going to stay at Villetelle, just 5 kms away! But I will count this as a rest day and let my sore left knee recover, then onward! I plan to take that bus from Vendargues myself, Jenny - the city walking is confusing I've found.
Finally, a plug for this cafe where the owners let me stay most of the afternoon today, using their wifi, recharging my Orange Holiday card, catching up on messages, AND where you can eat well: "La Storia Cala 'Briezh." It's been a pleasantly quiet afternoon.

 

[Former member 99290]

Jenny, your reduced étapes of 20-25 kms are still longer than mine, I must say. Tomorrow, due to NO vacancies in any locations further ahead, I am going to stay at Villetelle, just 5 kms away! But I will count this as a rest day and let my sore left knee recover, then onward! I plan to take that bus from Vendargues myself, Jenny - the city walking is confusing I've found.

Good for you Anna. I think a 5km rest day sounds great. Love that you are receiving that wonderful French hospitality.

Regarding your sore knee. Don’t know if this is a new injury or recurring - but can offer something that may help. I’ve sent you a PM so as not to derail your thread.

 

[Anna Cameron]

An interesting article from Le Figaro, reporting results from a survey (2021) of walkers and Pilgrims on the French Chemins de Compostelle. It reflects the perspective of French pilgrims but the descriptions of challenges and "deficiencies" on the pathways in France certainly reflect my own experience so far on the Arles Way. I'm happy to report that I've really enjoyed my last 2 days en Chemin and I'm about to explore the sights and monuments here in Villetelle.

Chemins de Compostelle : ces statistiques étonnantes sur le profil des voyageurs

Motivations au départ, itinéraires préférés... Une étude dresse le portrait des cheminants toujours plus nombreux à s'élancer, en France comme en Espagne, en direction de Saint-Jacques de Compostelle. Avec quelques surprises.

www.lefigaro.fr

 

[mspath]

An interesting article from Le Figaro, reporting results from a survey (2021) of walkers and Pilgrims on the French Chemins de Compostelle. It reflects the perspective of French pilgrims but the descriptions of challenges and "deficiencies" on the pathways in France certainly reflect my own experience so far on the Arles Way. I'm happy to report that I've really enjoyed my last 2 days en Chemin and I'm about to explore the sights and monuments here in Villetelle.

Chemins de Compostelle : ces statistiques étonnantes sur le profil des voyageurs

Motivations au départ, itinéraires préférés... Une étude dresse le portrait des cheminants toujours plus nombreux à s'élancer, en France comme en Espagne, en direction de Saint-Jacques de Compostelle. Avec quelques surprises.

www.lefigaro.fr

Anna Cameron,

Thanks for posting this French survey. It is interesting that younger walkers due to the lack of accommodation in France often choose "... le bivouac est le second mode d'hébergement utilisé par les moins de 35 ans." I, too, although more than double that age when walking in France often considered sleeping rough when tired and searching for a spot.

 

[Anna Cameron]

Checking in from Arboras (second try - don't you just hate it when all your text suddenly vanishes and you have to start over?) It's a week since my last post here and it's been wonderful/challenging/inspiring/painful/exhilarating and even frightening at times - in short, I've been on Camino/en Chemin!
I've taken it easy the last 2 days, after a scary day struggling from Montarnaud to St Jean de Fos in extreme heat. I had become a bit overconfident after some excellent, pleasant walking days of 13-15 kms and decided to go for it, 19 kms to St Jean de Fos, enabling an extra day to visit St Guilhem le Desert (impossible to book any accommodation at St Guilhem, all "complet" a week ahead). Well, I started early from Montarnaud, had plenty of water and stopped frequently to rest, but the rocky, narrow ascents and long stretches without shade became very difficult. 3 lemonades in a shady restaurant at Aniane helped, but those last 5 kms to Pont du Diable and then the slog up to Hostel Diablotin nearly finished me off! As they say here, "J'ai surestimé mes capacités." But, Brigitte at the Hostel welcomed me at last and she kindly agreed for me stay 2 nights in their near-new gîte/dortoir. And as we know,the Camino provides in unexpected ways: yesterday I was still shaky, but was preparing to walk up to St Guilhem le Desert when I met Vinciènnes, who proposed to drive me to St Guilhem. And on the way, she pulled over to show me "les Parapluies," her favourite place, a view of rock pools and water cascades falling down into the rushing waters of the R Hérault. Only a local could have known the spot where you can squeeze through a break in the roadside wall, to clamber down a narrow, steep series of rocks and then lean precariously over to see the falling water and river below. Really, one of my best moments on this journey and I told her so. As we approached the village, she explained that she is not a "religious " person, but that St Guilhem le Desert is a spiritual place - we agreed that people can feel connected despite differences of language, culture, geography, if the goodwill is there. I told her she is one of my heroes now and thanked her for the gift of that day.
And, then I spent hours exploring St Guilhem, which is, as per MMDD, "une étape incontournable...sur la voie d'Arles."

A choir practice taking place in the Abbaye, while pilgrims and tourists sat in silent appreciation, a fascinating film in the Museum (who knew that much of the sacred statuary and sections of the ancient monastery and abbaye were purchased by an American in 19th century, to be preserved and displayed in the Cloisters in NYC - one of my favourite places in the world? Well, I didn't!)
And then walked back to St Jean de Fos, so had a bit of extra pilgrimage walking after all.
I've accepted now that I won't make it to Toulouse on foot this time, but I'm continuing at least until Lunas or Le Bousquet d'Orb and then have to think about it, because I realise I cannot cope with the longer étapes without services after that, not to mention the mounting heat expected over next 10 days. Robert at Hostel Diablotin has strongly urged me to visit Albi (off Chemin but ça vaut le visite) before I head to Paris on 2 June. I'm considering....​

 

[Former member 99290]

Bravo Anna. Love your attitude and adaptability. Your reward is some very special experiences that we only happen upon by opening our hearts and minds to ‘strangers’ and following our intuition. The French sometimes get a bad rap, in my view, possibly based on limited experiences in big cities like Paris where people are busy busy busy getting on with their own lives in a city bursting with tourists.

In my experience - even before I met and married one - French people are welcoming, kind and generous with their time and hospitality. It sounds like this will be a Chemin filled with ‘des belles souvenirs’. Bon continuation. Bon chemin.

From Singapore airport, en route from Paris to Pretty Beach

PS. Albi is a lovely town - small enough to make for easy ‘strolling’. I’m not much for museums, but loved the Toulouse Latrec museum. Also, Square Botany Bay and the Laperouse museum may be of interest to an Aussie - Laperouse was born in Albi. Just think if he’d arrived just a few weeks earlier (before Captain Cook) we’d all be French speaking.

 

[Anna Cameron]

Bravo Anna. Love your attitude and adaptability. Your reward is some very special experiences that we only happen upon by opening our hearts and minds to ‘strangers’ and following our intuition. The French sometimes get a bad rap, in my view, possibly based on limited experiences in big cities like Paris where people are busy busy busy getting on with their own lives in a city bursting with tourists.

In my experience - even before I met and married one - French people are welcoming, kind and generous with their time and hospitality. It sounds like this will be a Chemin filled with ‘des belles souvenirs’. Bon continuation. Bon chemin.

From Singapore airport, en route from Paris to Pretty Beach

PS. Albi is a lovely town. I’m not much for museums, but loved the Toulouse Latrec museum. Also, Square Botany Bay and the Laperouse museum may be of interest to an Aussie - Laperouse was born in Albi. Just think if he’d arrived just a few weeks earlier (before Captain Cook) we’d all be French speaking.

Bon voyage, Jenny et bon retour à Pretty Beach. Yes, I'm sold on Albi now, love museums, love Toulouse Lautrec. Re: Laperouse, I'm going to try and send you a photo I took in the Bibliothèque in Toulon, maps of Laperouse's explorations in OZ, coast of (now) SA and Kangaroo Is. Yes, it could all have been quite different!

 

[StephenT]

Bravo Anna
I have been checking temperatures in Southern France, and I have been wondering from our autumn viewpoint, about your progress. I am interested to hear that the 'chaleur' has caused you to revise your plans - hope that the disappointment isnt too great for you and that the going hasnt been too tough - apart from the memories of course

I must agree 100% as to the French - I too have always found them very friendly and accommodating, especially outside the big cities and notably when you are able to show them you care enough to use their own language on them..! (- makes all those early language vocab lists so worthwhile..!)

SO - do you finish with your trip to Paris ? AND do you hope to return to Toulouse to complete the Chemin ??

As earlier noted I am in Arles as from mid-June, to make a start myself from there - hope the heat wave has passed by then..!
Amities
Stephen

 

[mark connolly]

A choir practice taking place in the Abbaye, while pilgrims and tourists sat in silent appreciation, a fascinating film in the Museum (who knew that much of the sacred statuary and sections of the ancient monastery and abbaye were purchased by an American in 19th century, to be preserved and displayed in the Cloisters in NYC - one of my favourite places in the world? Well, I didn't!)

A choir practice taking place in the Abbaye, while pilgrims and tourists sat in silent appreciation, a fascinating film in the Museum (who knew that much of the sacred statuary and sections of the ancient monastery and abbaye were purchased by an American in 19th century, to be preserved and displayed in the Cloisters in NYC - one of my favourite places in the world? Well, I didn't!)

I was at The Cloisters yesterday! Although I don't know which exact piece from the Abbaye you are referring to (any additional info will help). I will go back to see it again. As far as the story of the American who brought back, etc,, It was acquired by George Grey Barnard who (i belive) was of the architect for the state capitol in Harrisburg Pennsylvania. (More on the links below). A political scandal broke out and he fled to France and collected the various items. Which were in turn acquired by the Rockefellers who donated them to the Metropolitan Museum of Art. This would be a good opportunity on this forum to plug The Cloisters which is part of the Met. Located on the northern tip of Manhattan, it has an excellent collections of Medieval, Gothic and Romanesque Art.

The Cloisters - Wikipedia

en.wikipedia.org

https://www.metmuseum.org/visit/plan-your-visit/met-cloisters

Good Luck. Bon Chemin

Mark

 

[mspath]

For further recollections of the often controversial importance of historic relics along various paths read this earlier thread A Westerly Trend.

​

 

[Anna Cameron]

Salut, tout le monde - from the Gare at Beziers, waiting for the connection to Carcassonne. Thanks to all for the support and good wishes. Although this Chemin did not go as anticipated, this is NOT to say that it was disappointing. Far from that.
And, as my friend @jl pointed out earlier, 'pilgrimage ' is not just the time actually spent walking but also time spent and experience gained AROUND the walking. At least, that's what I believe.
So, now I'm still moving forward, backpack in place and coquille on my hat, towards Carcassonne and then Toulouse-Albi-Paris, back to Jacques in Toulon and then Nice and - Oz. More to follow.

 

[mspath]

Anna Cameron,

Good for you! French trains should be busy now since tomorrow is Ascension. Glad that you wear your coquille on your hat. Looking forward to reading your further updates.

Bon chemin!