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Jaca to Monasterio de San Juan de la Peña

Jeff Mayor

Member
Time of past OR future Camino
French, Port, VDLP, Aragon, Levante, Ebro: 04-22
My wife and I will be walking through Jaca from Somport in early August and we would like to visit the Monasterio de San Juan de la Pena on our way out of Jaca. Back in '13 we walked directly to Santa Cilla from Jaca and heard that there might be a ride up the hill to the Monasterio but we continued toward Arres because of time. This year we hope to make it there. According to Gronze Jaca to the Monasterio to Santa Cilla is 38.4k (approx.10hrs) and very difficult. Questions: If we walk from Jaca to the Monasterio can we spend the night there and walk down to Santa Cilla the next morning and on to Arres; or take a bus from Jaca to the Monasterio and walk to Santa Cilla for the night? I think I read a while back that someone bushwacked from the Monasterio directly to Arres and avoided going back to Santa Cilla. I don't see that on a map but I thought I'd ask about that as well. Thanks, and sorry for the long-winded question.
 
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My wife and I will be walking through Jaca from Somport in early August and we would like to visit the Monasterio de San Juan de la Pena on our way out of Jaca. Back in '13 we walked directly to Santa Cilla from Jaca and heard that there might be a ride up the hill to the Monasterio but we continued toward Arres because of time. This year we hope to make it there. According to Gronze Jaca to the Monasterio to Santa Cilla is 38.4k (approx.10hrs) and very difficult. Questions: If we walk from Jaca to the Monasterio can we spend the night there and walk down to Santa Cilla the next morning and on to Arres; or take a bus from Jaca to the Monasterio and walk to Santa Cilla for the night? I think I read a while back that someone bushwacked from the Monasterio directly to Arres and avoided going back to Santa Cilla. I don't see that on a map but I thought I'd ask about that as well. Thanks, and sorry for the long-winded question.
We were at Santa Cilla a few weeks ago. The albergue will let you stay 2 nights if you are visiting the monastery - so that’s one option. Note that the track down from the monastery is very steep and stony. We just walked down the road - it felt safe as there was almost no traffic and plenty of opportunities to step off the road. The views were great. Another option is to get the early morning workers’ bus up from Jaca.
 
Thank you, Elena, It sounds like we could get a ride once we arrive in Santa Cilla then. The early morning workers' bus from Jaca sounds interesting. Any idea where you find that in Jaca?
 
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Thank you, Elena, It sounds like we could get a ride once we arrive in Santa Cilla then. The early morning workers' bus from Jaca sounds interesting. Any idea where you find that in Jaca?
Not sure if you can get a ride but you can walk up and back from Santa Cilla in a day with lots of time to visit the monastery. We took the bus up/back from Jaca a couple of years ago. I think from the bus station but not sure? I think there are a few recent forum threads on this so check it out
 
You can also stay the night in Santa Cruz at the base of the mountain, hiking up to see the monasteries without your pack either the night you arrive or the morning you leave, and then do a short segment to Santa Cilia. There is no albergue in Santa Cruz, so that will cost a bit, but it can be cheaper than the taxi option many utilize from Jaca and it’s a lovely village.
 
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If we walk from Jaca to the Monasterio can we spend the night there
The “new” monastery at the top of the mountain used to house a Parador (stayed there in 2018), but I believe it has not reopened since Covid. Otherwise, there are no other lodging options there.
 
The tourist office in Jaca can tell you about the bus. It’s a good option but it may not run all year. Otherwise, staying two nights in Santa Cillia (albergue) or Santa Cruz de Seros (expensive) and walking there and back, doable in a day, would be the best way to do it.
 
You can also stay the night in Santa Cruz at the base of the mountain, hiking up to see the monasteries without your pack either the night you arrive or the morning you leave, and then do a short segment to Santa Cilia. There is no albergue in Santa Cruz, so that will cost a bit, but it can be cheaper than the taxi option many utilize from Jaca and it’s a lovely village.
I stayed in Santa Cruz and walked up to the monasteries in the afternoon. I was so happy that I wasn't carrying my backpack. That was quite a hike!

I think that you will have better luck with a bus or other transportation in August than I did in May before the tourist season began. I did get lucky and a Spanish couple offered me a ride back down.

The old monastery is definitely worth the effort to get there.
 
The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.
I can't help you with your questions Jeff but there was some mentions about the trail between the monasteries and Santa Cruz de la Serós. I recently checked out the steepness of the walks here. If you walk down the road the average grade is 5.5% over the 7 kilometers (4.3 miles). The trail distance is 3.3 km (2 miles) with an average slope of 10% but the steepest section is 17% over 2 km.
 
I visited both the new and old monasteries on Sept. 1, 2023 - taking the staff transport bus from Jaca to San Juan de la Peña. I got the information about the bus at the Tourism Office in Jaca. At that time I was told that the bus runs from mid June through the first week of September.

I took the 9:20am White Bus with the San Juan de la Peña logo on the side, from the Jaca bus station. This bus transports the staff to both monasteries and then shuttles visitors back and forth between the two sites every 20 min or so and returns to Jaca at 6pm. The bus also stopped in Santa Cruz de la Serós to pick up more staff.

A man on the bus, who worked as a guide told us that we would pay the 3 euro bus fare when we purchased a ticket for both monasteries at the new monastery. After visiting the new monastery, I took the shuttle to the old monastery and then walked down the mountain to Santa Cilia. I took the sometimes steep rocky path which was beautiful but there is also the option of the not very busy road.

Mid way down the mountain, I stopped in Santa Cruz de la Serós, to visit the Romanesque church of Santa Maria and had a very good lunch at the Hostal Santa Cruz before continuing on to Santa Cilia.
 
Mid way down the mountain, I stopped in Santa Cruz de la Serós, to visit the Romanesque church of Santa Maria
Photos and info here:
But also in town is San Caprasio:

Santa Maria wasn't open when I was in town which was a double shame as it meant I waited out a downpour in an arcade instead of the church. I didn't know about the nearby San Caprasio.
 
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I did the hike from Jaca to San Juan de la Pena and stayed in Sta Cruz (I think 40€ for the private room in September 2022, so count on at least 50 being August and inflation), and it was probably the most difficult day of any Camino. I didn't have any GPS tracks, and there were at times I had to guess which way at a fork. Then the steepness of the trails on the way back down. I don't think the bus was running when I went.

So if you hike from Jaca--GPS. Road walking is probably best, unless you have a lot of mountain experience. Either two nights in Sta Cilia as others have mentioned, or one Sta Cruz.

The monasteries were a highlight of the Camino Aragonés, so it's great to know all your options to see them again. The bus should be running.
 
If you walk up from Santa Cillia, you’ll be able to judge the path. I suspect you’ll choose the road on the way down. Nice people running the albergue now, they do dinner which is just as well as there is not much else in the village, though the owner of the bar should open up if he can round up his chickens in time. His vermouth is mental.
 
The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.
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Only the photos are going up and I didn’t take downhill photos. To San Juan de la peña.
 
You can also stay the night in Santa Cruz at the base of the mountain, hiking up to see the monasteries without your pack either the night you arrive or the morning you leave, and then do a short segment to Santa Cilia. There is no albergue in Santa Cruz, so that will cost a bit, but it can be cheaper than the taxi option many utilize from Jaca and it’s a lovely village.
Thanks Friend. Hope all is good with you, Buen camino
 
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You can also stay the night in Santa Cruz at the base of the mountain, hiking up to see the monasteries without your pack either the night you arrive or the morning you leave, and then do a short segment to Santa Cilia. There is no albergue in Santa Cruz, so that will cost a bit, but it can be cheaper than the taxi option many utilize from Jaca and it’s a lovely village.

I have done this and recommend the stay in Santa Cruz de los Seros. My first time to San Juan de la P involved the walk from Jaca up t hrough Atarés by a mountain trail; it was very difficult and it could only have been my 1/264th Haudenausanee blood which got my through up the arroyos. My second time I conferred with the turismo in Jaca and the assistant told me that it was occasionally used by the Mountain Division for training, but that the trail had deteriorated (was that possible??) since when I had done it.

But plan to go to the old monastery. It's looks as if it had been designed by Maxfield Parrish, with forests and sunlit vistas poking through romanesque arches. I count is as one of my top-ten travel experiences in my life. By hook or by crook, go.
 
But plan to go to the old monastery. It's looks as if it had been designed by Maxfield Parrish, with forests and sunlit vistas poking through romanesque arches. I count is as one of my top-ten travel experiences in my life. By hook or by crook, go.
Yes, one of my top two days on the Aragonés. The second one being the Foz de Lumbier.
 
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Foz de Lumbier?
A variant after Sangüesa. A stunning place!


 
My wife and I will be walking through Jaca from Somport in early August and we would like to visit the Monasterio de San Juan de la Pena on our way out of Jaca. Back in '13 we walked directly to Santa Cilla from Jaca and heard that there might be a ride up the hill to the Monasterio but we continued toward Arres because of time. This year we hope to make it there. According to Gronze Jaca to the Monasterio to Santa Cilla is 38.4k (approx.10hrs) and very difficult. Questions: If we walk from Jaca to the Monasterio can we spend the night there and walk down to Santa Cilla the next morning and on to Arres; or take a bus from Jaca to the Monasterio and walk to Santa Cilla for the night? I think I read a while back that someone bushwacked from the Monasterio directly to Arres and avoided going back to Santa Cilla. I don't see that on a map but I thought I'd ask about that as well. Thanks, and sorry for the long-winded question.
I walked from Jaca to Santa Cilia via the Monastery about 7 years ago, during Spring. It was a killer and although I loved the Aragones, I would not do that stretch in that way again. If you do it take plenty of water and something to eat with you. I walked down to Santa Cilia via the road as I was exhausted and did not want to risk an descent on the path.

I would love to walk the Aragones again but would attempt the monastery via a round trip from Santa Cilia.
 
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I think I know the answer but just thought I’d check. The route from Jaca to San Juan de la Peña through Atarés is still reported to be a horrible trail. For those who walked, am I right that the most straightforward way is to take the turnoff for cars on the N-240 out of Jaca and just walk on the road up to Santa Cruz and then on to San Juan? My idea would be to spend the night in Santa Cruz, so I could leave my pack there and go up to the monastery and then back to Santa Cruz.

I know that the camino out of Jaca tracks the N-240 a lot of the way, so I am assuming this won’t be hard to do.

I have walked down on the camino route from San Juan to Santa Cruz and it was awful. I messed up my knee and it was still hurting when I got to Santiago. I will not go back down that way again. I suppose walking up would be easier, and then take the road or hitch back down to Santa Cruz.
 
I have walked down on the camino route from San Juan to Santa Cruz and it was awful. I messed up my knee and it was still hurting when I got to Santiago. I will not go back down that way again. I suppose walking up would be easier, and then take the road or hitch back down to Santa Cruz.
We walked down to Santa Cruz on the road as we were concerned about the steep rocky descent of the camino track . No regrets - it was an easy walk with beautiful views down the valley. It felt safe - very little traffic and from memory enough hard shoulder/grass verge to stay off the road. I think hitchhiking would also be a viable option.
 
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I think I know the answer but just thought I’d check. The route from Jaca to San Juan de la Peña through Atarés is still reported to be a horrible trail. For those who walked, am I right that the most straightforward way is to take the turnoff for cars on the N-240 out of Jaca and just walk on the road up to Santa Cruz and then on to San Juan? My idea would be to spend the night in Santa Cruz, so I could leave my pack there and go up to the monastery and then back to Santa Cruz.

I know that the camino out of Jaca tracks the N-240 a lot of the way, so I am assuming this won’t be hard to do.

I have walked down on the camino route from San Juan to Santa Cruz and it was awful. I messed up my knee and it was still hurting when I got to Santiago. I will not go back down that way again. I suppose walking up would be easier, and then take the road or hitch back down to Santa Cruz.

Yes, I mentioned the details of it earlier in this thread, post 5. I walked it earlier this year.

I should probably mention again, each according to their own ability and your mileage may vary!

Post in thread 'Jaca to Monasterio de San Juan de la Peña' https://www.caminodesantiago.me/com...rio-de-san-juan-de-la-pena.87587/post-1268897
 
Yes, I mentioned the details of it earlier in this thread, post 5. I walked it earlier this year.
I need to pay more attention! And thank you for the link to that thread on your April 2024 Aragonés. It has also reminded me that I need to check for other live recent threads.

My mindset was to look for updates because of the recent upheavals before Somport, but of course, from Somport onwards, older threads will be perfectly fine. So I will go back to the search function. 😊

Flog, a lot of what you post is encouraging to me. If it isn’t too indiscreet of a question, can you tell me how old you are, or at least what decade you’re in? I am hoping we’re in the same rough age grouping.
 
Not at all. I've been stuck at twenty five in my head for a while now, like most, I suspect.. which sometimes gets my body in trouble! I'm the right side of sixty.. only just!😅😇
 
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My idea would be to spend the night in Santa Cruz, so I could leave my pack there and go up to the monastery and then back to Santa Cruz.
That's what I did, and it was still a pretty hard and hot walk up to the monasteries. Before I left the new monastery (where I went first) I asked about a taxi back down and the woman there suggested hitchhiking. Luckily for me, a Spanish couple who overheard me found me when I got to the old monastery and offered me a ride down. They were on a road trip, but had walked Caminos before.
 
Did you take the road up or brave the rocky path? (BTW, I think it's generally very hard to capture steepness in a picture but the picture by @Juliana K in post 16 gives a great sense of how steep it is).
I took the rocky path. Even though the road is a lot longer, it would have been easier, and possibly faster.

The next day I walked the rocky trail down from Santa Cruz in a thunderstorm! It probably would have been better to take the road from there, even though it would have backtracked a bit.
 
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Did you take the road up or brave the rocky path?
Here is something I posted a few months ago:
... there was some mentions about the trail between the monasteries and Santa Cruz de la Serós. I recently checked out the steepness of the walks here. If you walk down the road the average grade is 5.5% over the 7 kilometers (4.3 miles). The trail distance is 3.3 km (2 miles) with an average slope of 10% but the steepest section is 17% over 2 km.​
 

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