LIVE from the Camino Hugo goes to Finisterre (September '24)

[hugocast]

There is something special about cities waking up. Double special if that city is Santiago de Compostela.


Around 6:30am I saw people walking to work, a family of 4 sightseeing and taking pictures already (they were probably jet lagged) and about half a dozen peregrinos making their way to Praza do Obradoiro.


I stopped at the Praza to look at the cathedral and said a quick prayer, to say thanks and ask for strength on this walk.


It's really impressive how you can walk 10 minutes west of the Catedral de Santiago and be out in the countryside.


First time I used my hiking light. I also wrapped my backpack on a bright yellow rainproof shell. Does it help? I don't know, but it makes me feel better.



Dirt path. There is a really strong smell from eucalyptus after the first hill. That smell combined with the fog rolling in at 55 degrees makes you feel like you are walking through the biggest diffuser in the world. Intoxicating.



Switched to road walking. There seems to be lots of road walking in this etapa. 99% of the time I walk on the left side of the road, so I can see cars as they approach me. Of course, there is the 1% when only a little bit of sidewalk is on the right side of the road.



I heard a car and didn't stop walking (my mistake) it almost clipped me from behind I was fine, just a bit shook up. I thanked my lucky stars and remembered the advice to STOP walking when you hear a car and get as far away from the road as possible. No incidents since.


If you walk this way, do yourself a favor and get a coffee and a bocadillo at Os Arcos. I almost missed it since it's 20 meters from the camino, but it helped me so much.


Also, stop at Casa Pancho. Warmest welcome I've had at a bar in Spain. The owner is so kind and loves pilgrims. You can tell he's walked it many, many times.



The pilgrims walking seem friendly enough. LOTS of Buen Caminos from pilgrims and locals. Counted at least 25 pilgrims going to Fisterre. Chinese, Brazilians, Argentines, couple Brits, A few Spaniards, a few Portuguese.



Saw a HUGE group of Argentines at Agua Pesada (at least 30) walking back into Santiago. They looked like a church group. They were blasting out loud Cumbia Villera I'll let you google it.


The Agua Pesada climb is tough, but there are plenty of places to stop at to rest and catch your breath.

Ponte Maceira made me feel like I was in the middle ages. Pictures don't do it justice. Next time I'll plan to stay there.

Staying at Albergue Cotón in Negreira. First Spanish town that I see that doesn't have a lively central plaza. Seems like a place you go through, not so much a place to "hang out" at. No complaints, just noticing things.


The Albergue is fantastic. It looks full. I was the first one to arrive at 1:30pm or so. Love those individual bathrooms with toilet/sink/shower combos. They also have paid washers and dryers and throw in detergent for free.



Staff was very adamant saying that this town has the last full supermarket for a while so I made some bocadillos de tortilla for breakfast and for later.



There is a large group (8 or so) of pilgrims with mobility issues staying at the hostel. Folks with walkers and wheelchairs. I love seeing this so much. I find it incredibly inspiring.



Off to Lago tomorrow. Thank you for reading this far.

 

[bullingtonce]

There is something special about cities waking up. Double special if that city is Santiago de Compostela.


Around 6:30am I saw people walking to work, a family of 4 sightseeing and taking pictures already (they were probably jet lagged) and about half a dozen peregrinos making their way to Praza do Obradoiro.


I stopped at the Praza to look at the cathedral and said a quick prayer, to say thanks and ask for strength on this walk.


It's really impressive how you can walk 10 minutes west of the Catedral de Santiago and be out in the countryside.


First time I used my hiking light. I also wrapped my backpack on a bright yellow rainproof shell. Does it help? I don't know, but it makes me feel better.



Dirt path. There is a really strong smell from eucalyptus after the first hill. That smell combined with the fog rolling in at 55 degrees makes you feel like you are walking through the biggest diffuser in the world. Intoxicating.



Switched to road walking. There seems to be lots of road walking in this etapa. 99% of the time I walk on the left side of the road, so I can see cars as they approach me. Of course, there is the 1% when only a little bit of sidewalk is on the right side of the road.



I heard a car and didn't stop walking (my mistake) it almost clipped me from behind I was fine, just a bit shook up. I thanked my lucky stars and remembered the advice to STOP walking when you hear a car and get as far away from the road as possible. No incidents since.


If you walk this way, do yourself a favor and get a coffee and a bocadillo at Os Arcos. I almost missed it since it's 20 meters from the camino, but it helped me so much.


Also, stop at Casa Pancho. Warmest welcome I've had at a bar in Spain. The owner is so kind and loves pilgrims. You can tell he's walked it many, many times.



The pilgrims walking seem friendly enough. LOTS of Buen Caminos from pilgrims and locals. Counted at least 25 pilgrims going to Fisterre. Chinese, Brazilians, Argentines, couple Brits, A few Spaniards, a few Portuguese.



Saw a HUGE group of Argentines at Agua Pesada (at least 30) walking back into Santiago. They looked like a church group. They were blasting out loud Cumbia Villera I'll let you google it.


The Agua Pesada climb is tough, but there are plenty of places to stop at to rest and catch your breath.

Ponte Maceira made me feel like I was in the middle ages. Pictures don't do it justice. Next time I'll plan to stay there.

Staying at Albergue Cotón in Negreira. First Spanish town that I see that doesn't have a lively central plaza. Seems like a place you go through, not so much a place to "hang out" at. No complaints, just noticing things.


The Albergue is fantastic. It looks full. I was the first one to arrive at 1:30pm or so. Love those individual bathrooms with toilet/sink/shower combos. They also have paid washers and dryers and throw in detergent for free.



Staff was very adamant saying that this town has the last full supermarket for a while so I made some bocadillos de tortilla for breakfast and for later.



There is a large group (8 or so) of pilgrims with mobility issues staying at the hostel. Folks with walkers and wheelchairs. I love seeing this so much. I find it incredibly inspiring.



Off to Lago tomorrow. Thank you for reading this far.

Thank you for a superb post, especially about the mobility issue folks. I so frequently neglect counting my blessings. Chuck

 

[Kekaa]

Great post! Walked it at august 8th this year.
Agree with casa pancho and ponte maceira. Did take a picture

 

[hugocast]

2nd day. Negreira to Lago (Albergue Monte Aro), 27ish km.

Woke up to a snoring concert around 4am turned out I had front row tickets to it. That dude sounded like a pressure cooker 2 octaves deep.

I couldn't go back to sleep, so I decided to start my day. I left my backpack ready so I just had to make my way to the bathroom and kitchen.

Had breakfast at a leisurely pace. Bread, tomato and tortilla. Listened to a podcast.

Hit the road at 5:15am. Pitch black outside. Used my light. Didn't see anyone till 7:15 or so. Walked through an unpaved path for quite a bit. Blair Witch Project vibes.

At around 8am I befriended a couple Spaniards and ended up walking the whole day with them.

It's amazing how you can be having a good conversation and walk 5 km or more without realizing it.

We probably spent at least 3 hours talking about the Spanish language and differences between the Venezuelan one I speak and theirs. Love to learn new things.

HUGE hill right after As Maroñas.

Turned out I forgot the bocadillos de tortilla at the previous hostel luckily I had some sultanas with me.

Ended up making it to Albergue Monte Aro at around 1:45pm and shared a couple cañas with my new found friends. They kept walking 6 km more or so to stay at Oliveira. Great, solid people. Highlight of my day.


The cuban rice and milanesa for dinner hit the spot. Met an Irishman from County Sligo which coincidentally is where my great grandmother was born before taking a ship to (South) America. He has walked more than 1000 km from Le Puy. So many great stories.

Albergue Monte Aro is a gem of a place and Tania is an angel on earth. Warmth and kindness with every interaction. Seriously, do yourself a favor and stop here. Hospitality with a capital H. Either going to Fisterre or coming back to Santiago.

Off to Cee tomorrow. Thank you for reading.

 

[Gringazolana]

2nd day. Negreira to Lago (Albergue Monte Aro), 27ish km.

Woke up to a snoring concert around 4am turned out I had front row tickets to it. That dude sounded like a pressure cooker 2 octaves deep.

I couldn't go back to sleep, so I decided to start my day. I left my backpack ready so I just had to make my way to the bathroom and kitchen.

Had breakfast at a leisurely pace. Bread, tomato and tortilla. Listened to a podcast.

Hit the road at 5:15am. Pitch black outside. Used my light. Didn't see anyone till 7:15 or so. Walked through an unpaved path for quite a bit. Blair Witch Project vibes.

At around 8am I befriended a couple Spaniards and ended up walking the whole day with them.

It's amazing how you can be having a good conversation and walk 5 km or more without realizing it.

We probably spent at least 3 hours talking about the Spanish language and differences between the Venezuelan one I speak and theirs. Love to learn new things.

HUGE hill right after As Maroñas.

Turned out I forgot the bocadillos de tortilla at the previous hostel luckily I had some sultanas with me.

Ended up making it to Albergue Monte Aro at around 1:45pm and shared a couple cañas with my new found friends. They kept walking 6 km more or so to stay at Oliveira. Great, solid people. Highlight of my day.


The cuban rice and milanesa for dinner hit the spot. Met an Irishman from County Sligo which coincidentally is where my great grandmother was born before taking a ship to (South) America. He has walked more than 1000 km from Le Puy. So many great stories.

Albergue Monte Aro is a gem of a place and Tania is an angel on earth. Warmth and kindness with every interaction. Seriously, do yourself a favor and stop here. Hospitality with a capital H. Either going to Fisterre or coming back to Santiago.

Off to Cee tomorrow. Thank you for reading.

Epa pana! Pa’ lante!

 

[hugocast]

Great post! Walked it at august 8th this year.
Agree with casa pancho and ponte maceira. Did take a picture

Thanks! I wish everyone had a bar like Casa Pancho near their house.

 

[hugocast]

Epa pana! Pa’ lante!

Pa'tras ni pa' coger impulso Gracias

 

[Cicada]

There is something special about cities waking up. Double special if that city is Santiago de Compostela.


Around 6:30am I saw people walking to work, a family of 4 sightseeing and taking pictures already (they were probably jet lagged) and about half a dozen peregrinos making their way to Praza do Obradoiro.


I stopped at the Praza to look at the cathedral and said a quick prayer, to say thanks and ask for strength on this walk.


It's really impressive how you can walk 10 minutes west of the Catedral de Santiago and be out in the countryside.


First time I used my hiking light. I also wrapped my backpack on a bright yellow rainproof shell. Does it help? I don't know, but it makes me feel better.



Dirt path. There is a really strong smell from eucalyptus after the first hill. That smell combined with the fog rolling in at 55 degrees makes you feel like you are walking through the biggest diffuser in the world. Intoxicating.



Switched to road walking. There seems to be lots of road walking in this etapa. 99% of the time I walk on the left side of the road, so I can see cars as they approach me. Of course, there is the 1% when only a little bit of sidewalk is on the right side of the road.



I heard a car and didn't stop walking (my mistake) it almost clipped me from behind I was fine, just a bit shook up. I thanked my lucky stars and remembered the advice to STOP walking when you hear a car and get as far away from the road as possible. No incidents since.


If you walk this way, do yourself a favor and get a coffee and a bocadillo at Os Arcos. I almost missed it since it's 20 meters from the camino, but it helped me so much.


Also, stop at Casa Pancho. Warmest welcome I've had at a bar in Spain. The owner is so kind and loves pilgrims. You can tell he's walked it many, many times.



The pilgrims walking seem friendly enough. LOTS of Buen Caminos from pilgrims and locals. Counted at least 25 pilgrims going to Fisterre. Chinese, Brazilians, Argentines, couple Brits, A few Spaniards, a few Portuguese.



Saw a HUGE group of Argentines at Agua Pesada (at least 30) walking back into Santiago. They looked like a church group. They were blasting out loud Cumbia Villera I'll let you google it.


The Agua Pesada climb is tough, but there are plenty of places to stop at to rest and catch your breath.

Ponte Maceira made me feel like I was in the middle ages. Pictures don't do it justice. Next time I'll plan to stay there.

Staying at Albergue Cotón in Negreira. First Spanish town that I see that doesn't have a lively central plaza. Seems like a place you go through, not so much a place to "hang out" at. No complaints, just noticing things.


The Albergue is fantastic. It looks full. I was the first one to arrive at 1:30pm or so. Love those individual bathrooms with toilet/sink/shower combos. They also have paid washers and dryers and throw in detergent for free.



Staff was very adamant saying that this town has the last full supermarket for a while so I made some bocadillos de tortilla for breakfast and for later.



There is a large group (8 or so) of pilgrims with mobility issues staying at the hostel. Folks with walkers and wheelchairs. I love seeing this so much. I find it incredibly inspiring.



Off to Lago tomorrow. Thank you for reading this far.

Well written
Buen Camino

 

[LeslieC]

Thanks, @hugocast.

I agree with the comment about your writing. It's a lovely style and I feel like I'm right there with you.

Buen camino.

 

[hugocast]

Day 3: Lago to Cee, 24.6 km

My brain hurts from code switching in 3 languages. I'll make this quick (or not, we'll see).


Woke up fortified by hospitality with a capital H @ 5:45.


Why do people use their phone flashlights to orient themselves around Albergues? It's like they don't know about headlamps with a red light to protect your night vision.



I don't know what I would do without my hiking headlamp. That red light is so nice, specially when you are looking for your earplugs among the sheets at 5:47 am.


Breakfast was going to be served at 7am, but I felt like walking so off I went.


Pitch black outside, walking by cornfields. Lago is basically 2 streets and a handful of houses. The smell of manure is intense, but so is the hospitality at Albergue Monte Aro. Seriously, stop by whenever you walk to Fisterra.


Got some much needed dopamine brought to you by Miguel Rios. Next time you walk through a pitch black dirt path in Spain, listen to this. It will wake you up more than coffee

Didn't see anyone for 2 hours. It was me and the cornfields. Perfectly flat. I looked back at the hills I crossed the day before and enjoyed the sunrise around 8:15 am.



Be careful crossing Ponte Olveira. It's too small for two cars, so they take turns crossing. A bus would take the whole width of it.


Had breakfast at As Baleas in Olveiroa. I love how Galician sounds. It reminds me of getting breakfast at my school's "cantina" in Venezuela with its Galician staff.


Why does a slice of toasted bread, tomato and jamón serrano taste so good? Oh, right, I am in Spain. Also, I haven't eaten in 12 hours.


It breaks my heart to see stray cats begging for food. This one probably gets fed by every passing peregrino and it's really confident meowing and staring at you while you eat. I have two cats at home so I know all their tricks. I fight back the urge to feed it and he leaves.


The Camino gets off the main road and the terrain starts to rise.


Remember the folks with wheelchairs and crutches from day 1? Turns out they are a multiple sclerosis association based in Segovia. We become fast friends.


They are 8 total, 4 people with multiple sclerosis and 4 chaperones that are assigned to each one. They are all at different stages of the disease.


They walked Ingles a year ago, and wanted to do Fisterre this year. They do it to spread awareness and raise funds for MS research.


Some of the folks with crutches take 1 hour to cover 1 kilometer. They walk for 5 hours or so and get picked up / dropped off by a van with supplies in case they need them.


One of the folks with MS is in his 30s and walks unaided and navigates hills faster than me. Every one gets affected differently.


Really inspiring people. They got me a café con leche and shared their stories with me.


I felt so honored to walk with them. You can learn more about their organization here in case you want to volunteer https://www.segoviaesclerosis.org


Ran into my friends from Girona right before the Muxia / Fisterre split. They are doing Muxia first. Hopefully I'll see them at Fisterre.


Met a whole family from Portugal that has done 3 Caminos. They were walking with their 12 year old kid. It's her second Camino. Talk about the apple not falling far from the tree


Make sure to get a bocadillo and a couple Aquarius(es) at Bar O Casteliño. No services for 12 kms.


There is a beautiful picnic area with shade and water by the Capilla Nosa Señora das Neves. Plenty of shade and seating. It was raining, but it's the kind of place where you could try to take a nap if you wanted to.


Saw the Vákner! I was glad I could survive the encounter


The last 4 km into Cee are very much downhill and tough. My ankle hurts after I walk more than 24km, so I slowed down a bit.


Just when you think you can't go forward anymore, you see the ocean peeking over the trees! That was the extra push I needed.


Made it safely to Cee.


I want to rest a bit more deeply tonight and skip the snoring concert . So I am staying at Hotel Oca Insua. Magnificent place. Get the milanesa de pollo at the hotel restaurant if you can.



Ran into the Irish pilgrim that's been walking since Le Puy and we spoke for 10 minutes about Kerrygold Butter and how wonderful it is.


Finisterre Tomorrow!


Thank you for reading this far

 

[hugocast]

Day 4: Cee to Finisterre, 16 km


It's hard to explain ADHD to someone that doesn't have it.


Imagine knowing exactly WHAT you have to do, knowing HOW to do it, WHEN to do it, you can even write an essay or teach a class about the thing you HAVE to do, but your body won't cooperate.


There might even be external negative consequences to NOT doing the thing, but they are not motivating enough.


It still physically hurts to do the thing. You feel guilty about not doing the thing and it adds more friction to doing the thing. It's a vicious cycle and it's hard to snap out of it.


That's why I woke up at 7am, but couldn't bring myself to pack my backpack or go down for breakfast until 9am.


Something good about staying at hotels is that you can "sleep in" till 7am.


Something bad from staying at hotels, at least for me, is that I miss out on the social cue of "it's time to get ready". I find that staying at an Albergue or even a Posada with shared bathrooms helps me have an earlier start. Either because people snoring wake me up or I know I don't want to line up to use the bathrooms in the AM. There is something so special about waking up early and seeing the sunrise as I walk to a new place.


I think whenever I do Frances, I'll stay at albergues for 3 days and spend the 4th day at a cheap hotel or posada so I can get 8-9 hours on those days.


But that's a future Hugo consideration, present Hugo needs coffee.


I go down to the breakfast and the waiter smiles, "Good morning! you are Hugo, right? here is your table. You are the last one" he teases. He points to a single table setup with a plate and silverware among an ocean of empty tables.


It's 100% ok I quickly wolf down some pincho de tortilla and a con leche.


While I am inhaling breakfast, an American walks in and the same waiter points her to a table which they quickly setup for her.


I guess I wasn't the last one after all


I hit the road at 9:39 am. I thank the front desk lady, Martina, and get my stamp.


Hotel Oca is wonderful. The restaurant for dinner and breakfast is superb and the beds are incredibly comfy if you need to rest for a bit more after walking to Cee.


The walk from Hotel Oca to the ocean is a bit dangerous, the sidewalk breaks apart in some areas. I guess it's practice for when I go back to the US


Once you get to the ocean it's a bit worse, since it's a waterfront avenue and cars drive faster than in the city streets. Please be extra careful here. I am kinda glad that I "slept in" and didn't walk this at 6am.


That view is fantastic. You can see the bay, the town and the mist covering everything.


You'd think they would have a big promenade to walk right next to the ocean, but the sidewalk is wide in only a few sections. You have a sidewalk that only allows one person at a time in some spots, so be extra careful in this part.


At some point the Camino leaves the waterfront avenue and goes up the hills into the residential streets. A welcome change.


There is a beautiful church right before you leave Cee, I go in to say thanks and to ease my racing thoughts after walking on the avenue.


The Camino goes UP and away. Steep hill with rocks. Quite a nice workout. It's a combination of rocks, dirt paths and crossing roads.


We get on the main road to Finisterre and walk on a dirt path next to it, there is the metal fence between you and the cars, so it feels a bit safer. A bit.


I hear....horses??? A group of at least 25 people riding on horseback are going from Finisterre to Cee. They are on the other side of the road, but I am so curious to know what they were doing.


They dress and look like locals. I remember a recurring conversation with other pilgrims was that you can do the Camino on horseback. I've always wondered the logistics of staying at a place with your horse while doing Camino


Lots of road walking, up, down, up.


I don't recognize anybody. The first 3 days I walked in with the "early shift" leaving towns 5:30am-7am so now that I am walking on a different time slot, the groups are different. Still, plenty of Buen Caminos, but also lots of people wearing airpods and walking.


Not stopping for this Etapa. I want to see the ocean again.


We arrive to a dirt path surrounded by thick trees. It's a tunnel of trees. I haven't seen them so thick since the first day. The tunneling effect is beautiful. There is a blue light at the end of this tunnel, and I see a big group of pilgrims stopped.


We made it to the ocean again. The view opens up and you can see Langosteira Beach, the ocean, Finisterre, and the morro where the lighthouse is. I stop for a couple minutes to take it all in. It's all downhill from here.


What happens after is the steepest descent I've seen. Steeper than anywhere I remember from Ingles or Portugués. Please be careful here. I slipped twice, but luckily didn't fall. Grateful for my sticks.


Langosteira is gorgeous, but I don't feel like putting my feet in the water just yet. I'll do that at Mar de Fora.


I stop at a chiringuito where Gene Wilder's Galician cousin gives me an Aquarius limón with ice. It's delicious, especially after that hill. I savor every drop and put the ice cubes in my water bottle.


We walk on wooden planks by the ocean. It reminded me of Portugués for a little bit and we start to go up again.


The walk into Finisterre is a bit anticlimactic. The views are gorgeous, but it doesn't feel over. I greet a couple Spaniards and a German I met along the way. We go in for our Fisterrana and are in and out in 5 minutes. The calligraphy is beautiful.


Still, the walk doesn't feel over.


I realize that I gave my Compostela and the cardboard tube to my wife when she flew back home, so I don't have a place to store the Fisterrana.


If this happens to you, the gift shop next door to the Oficina de Turismo sells souvenirs and blue cardboard tubes for 2 euros. Don't be like me and go to the supermarket and buy a HUGE Pringles can to transport your Fisterrana inside. I am glad that I went back to the plaza to greet friends and got a proper tube before trying the Pringles can


Off to Hostal Rivas to check in and drop my bag. Faro comes next.


I arrive at 1:55pm and had booked a double room by accident. Ramon lets me cancel that room and book a single one at a lower rate.


He whips out a map and in 5 minutes gives me a Finisterre Master class. I find out where the laundry is, the good restaurants, the not so good ones, the supermarket, the bus back, the way to the lighthouse, and the way to Mar de Fora.


This is quickly becoming one of my favorite places to stay in Europe.


Still, the walk doesn't feel complete.


I go up, shower, catch a nap, and off I go to grab a snack at the town square.


I see my Portuguese friends at the main square, we exchange information. I guess now I have someone to grab pastel de nata next time I go to Porto.


It's funny how small towns work and the "intelligence network" they have. I stop at Froiz for a chocolate bar and see a film crew picking up food for catering. The cashiers are talking about a movie that's being filmed at Mar de Fora.


I make my way up, the path is narrow and people are walking in both directions, the views are beautiful. At some point you'll get tired of taking pictures. Just take it all in and be present.


I saw people walking up in their flip flops, but I was glad I brought my hiking shoes.


The 45 minutes flew by. I help a French couple get their picture at the Kilómetro Cero and they help me in return. I thank them with my Duolingo French.


The walk doesn't feel complete.


I go past the actual lighthouse and down to the rocks, where the boot sculpture is.


It's gorgeous. The sea opens up and you can see the end of the earth.


Some douche is flying a loud drone taking videos. Somehow, it doesn't bother me.


I touch the boot and in a quick moment of inspiration, I take my shoes off and take a picture of them sitting next to the boot. I shake the dirt and rocks from my socks and put my shoes back on.


The drone is quiet. I enjoy the view and this moment.


It looks like the ocean never ends.


The walk doesn't feel complete.


I make my way up from the rocks, sunset is in 2 hours, I have plenty of time for what I want to do.


I see another pilgrim that walked from Basilea in Switzerland.


I make my way down from the morro, back into town. More gorgeous ocean views, mountain, town and sea together.


I pass by the church and make a left onto a very small street and find the dirt path that will take me to Mar de Fora beach.


It feels like being back in the Camino, dirt path, uphill and more uphill, going through small streets, an abandoned horreo next to a house.


I finally make it to the forest and see the planks that go down to the beach.


The film crew is there


I take my shoes off into the sand. It's cold, soft and it feels better than any words can describe it.


I put my feet in the water.


The walk is complete.

 

[hugocast]

Day 5: Fisterre to Santiago - Reentry.


I don't know why I did this to myself 100% my fault.


I have a ticket to the 10:34am AVE to Madrid, I am meeting my best friend from high school in Madrid.


However, I also mailed my iPad and stuff I didn't need for the Camino to Ivar and apparently the office doesn't open till 10am.


I thought there would be a bus early into Santiago, but the earliest one I could find is at 8am and doesn't arrive till 11am.


Time to find a solution.


I found this Bla Bla Car service that will pick me up from Fisterre @ 8:10am and drop me off close to the Santiago Train Station by 9:20am, so I have to walk 15 minutes to Casa Ivar, wait till 10am when they open, retrieve my stuff and then walk 15 minutes walk to the station. It's the AVE so there is a bag scanner.


I can do this. Playing it a bit close, but I can do this. I'll make sure to give myself more time next time, but right now this is THIS time.

————————

I wake up at 6:30am, pack my stuff, shower (what a concept! showering before going out) and make my way down by 7:30am. I want to get some fresh air before I am stuck on a car for 1 hour and a train for 3ish hours.


I can't remember if this place has breakfast.... there is a 24 hour coffee machine at the lavandería next door, it will have to do.


I mention to Ramon that I left my key upstairs and that I am on my way out.


Turns out, Hostal Rivas DOES offer breakfast. Ramon just asks "¿No quieres tomarte algo antes de irte?".


Ramon at Hostal Rivas is a gentleman and a scholar. Top class chap. He has a dozen breakfast tables setup since 7am with a shiny, buttery croissant at each one. Just waiting on each person to wake up and come on down for it. He knows people are walking that day or catching a long ride back home, so they need a pick me up.


I gladly accept a cafe con leche, some bread with serrano and enjoy the croissant.


"Better than a Hilton" I tell him. He smiles and accepts the compliment. We say goodbye.


Bla Bla Car stops at 8:08 am in front, I recognize a pilgrim from the app, Laura, and say hello. She walked from Irún and turns out she is catching the same AVE to Madrid I am. 2 more pilgrims join up, they walked from Porto. We all become fast friends.


Community it's being in a place where you don't have to explain yourself, everyone just "gets you". I am so glad I found it. It will definitely ease the reentry.


Our driver, Luis, is taking his father to the doctor in Santiago and drives pilgrim back to the train station. He mentions that he has lived in Galicia his whole life and has 36 cousins. He's never walked the Camino, but he enjoys talking to pilgrims that have one it.


We spent the hour long ride talking about our experiences. The good, the bad and the magical.


We arrive at 9:20, I ask Luis to please take care of Galicia.


It's 13 celsius outside and the air is misty. I start walking uphill to the historic center and make it to Casa Ivar @ 9:36am. A huge vegetable truck is parked in front as they shuttle goods to nearby restaurants and bars.


The streets are slightly wet and there are no pilgrims around, the ones walking have already left and it's too early for the ones arriving today.


I start pacing and embrace the "Espíritu del Camino", if I don't make the 10:34 train, I'll catch the 8pm one and arrive at Madrid at 11pm.


A couple arrives to drop off their carry on bags.


A small miracle happens and someone arrives at Casa Ivar at 9:52am.


God bless her. I greet her, ask her for my package and as she gets it, my eyes get wet. I am making my train after all. I thank her so profusely that the couple behind me gets a bit startled.


I open up the box and drop it at a recycling bin, man, I am glad I put my iPad and other stuff in a sling bag. I put it around my shoulders and huff it to the station.


I make it to the AVE line by 10:11am. I see my friend Laura from the Bla Bla Car and tell her "Buen Camino". We laugh, it's a habit. We get on the train.


I sit down next to a couple from Mississippi, they walked from Vigo to Santiago to celebrate his 60th birthday.


Writing this somewhere between Santiago and Ourense.


Thank you Galicia, Thank you Camino and Thank you for reading. Stay safe out there.


-Hugo

 

[Cicada]

Day 5: Fisterre to Santiago - Reentry.


I don't know why I did this to myself 100% my fault.


I have a ticket to the 10:34am AVE to Madrid, I am meeting my best friend from high school in Madrid.


However, I also mailed my iPad and stuff I didn't need for the Camino to Ivar and apparently the office doesn't open till 10am.


I thought there would be a bus early into Santiago, but the earliest one I could find is at 8am and doesn't arrive till 11am.


Time to find a solution.


I found this Bla Bla Car service that will pick me up from Fisterre @ 8:10am and drop me off close to the Santiago Train Station by 9:20am, so I have to walk 15 minutes to Casa Ivar, wait till 10am when they open, retrieve my stuff and then walk 15 minutes walk to the station. It's the AVE so there is a bag scanner.


I can do this. Playing it a bit close, but I can do this. I'll make sure to give myself more time next time, but right now this is THIS time.

————————

I wake up at 6:30am, pack my stuff, shower (what a concept! showering before going out) and make my way down by 7:30am. I want to get some fresh air before I am stuck on a car for 1 hour and a train for 3ish hours.


I can't remember if this place has breakfast.... there is a 24 hour coffee machine at the lavandería next door, it will have to do.


I mention to Ramon that I left my key upstairs and that I am on my way out.


Turns out, Hostal Rivas DOES offer breakfast. Ramon just asks "¿No quieres tomarte algo antes de irte?".


Ramon at Hostal Rivas is a gentleman and a scholar. Top class chap. He has a dozen breakfast tables setup since 7am with a shiny, buttery croissant at each one. Just waiting on each person to wake up and come on down for it. He knows people are walking that day or catching a long ride back home, so they need a pick me up.


I gladly accept a cafe con leche, some bread with serrano and enjoy the croissant.


"Better than a Hilton" I tell him. He smiles and accepts the compliment. We say goodbye.


Bla Bla Car stops at 8:08 am in front, I recognize a pilgrim from the app, Laura, and say hello. She walked from Irún and turns out she is catching the same AVE to Madrid I am. 2 more pilgrims join up, they walked from Porto. We all become fast friends.


Community it's being in a place where you don't have to explain yourself, everyone just "gets you". I am so glad I found it. It will definitely ease the reentry.


Our driver, Luis, is taking his father to the doctor in Santiago and drives pilgrim back to the train station. He mentions that he has lived in Galicia his whole life and has 36 cousins. He's never walked the Camino, but he enjoys talking to pilgrims that have one it.


We spent the hour long ride talking about our experiences. The good, the bad and the magical.


We arrive at 9:20, I ask Luis to please take care of Galicia.


It's 13 celsius outside and the air is misty. I start walking uphill to the historic center and make it to Casa Ivar @ 9:36am. A huge vegetable truck is parked in front as they shuttle goods to nearby restaurants and bars.


The streets are slightly wet and there are no pilgrims around, the ones walking have already left and it's too early for the ones arriving today.


I start pacing and embrace the "Espíritu del Camino", if I don't make the 10:34 train, I'll catch the 8pm one and arrive at Madrid at 11pm.


A couple arrives to drop off their carry on bags.


A small miracle happens and someone arrives at Casa Ivar at 9:52am.


God bless her. I greet her, ask her for my package and as she gets it, my eyes get wet. I am making my train after all. I thank her so profusely that the couple behind me gets a bit startled.


I open up the box and drop it at a recycling bin, man, I am glad I put my iPad and other stuff in a sling bag. I put it around my shoulders and huff it to the station.


I make it to the AVE line by 10:11am. I see my friend Laura from the Bla Bla Car and tell her "Buen Camino". We laugh, it's a habit. We get on the train.


I sit down next to a couple from Mississippi, they walked from Vigo to Santiago to celebrate his 60th birthday.


Writing this somewhere between Santiago and Ourense.


Thank you Galicia, Thank you Camino and Thank you for reading. Stay safe out there.


-Hugo

And a big thankyou to you Hugo
I've said it before and I'll say it again you write very well. I like your style
I look forward to hearing about your next Camino I feel there will be another one for sure!!

 

[BarbaraW]

Hear, hear!

 

[Flog]

Lovely descriptive trip report, thank you.. it's a while since I've walked out to Finesterre, it brings it right back!

 

[hugocast]

Thank you all for the kind words @Cicada @BarbaraW @LeslieC @Kekaa @Gringazolana @bullingtonce @Flog

It was my pleasure! I really enjoyed writing this. I keep a paper journal, and often record ideas while walking using the voice memo app. However, I find that there is something about having a "public journal" like this that really motivates me to actually write.

Hope it's useful or at least entertaining for folks walking to Finisterre in the future. Thanks again.

Time to start planning the next Camino