- Time of past OR future Camino
- Camino Ingles (Sept'24), Camino Portugues (May'22)
Remove ads on the forum by becoming a donating member. More here. |
---|
Thank you for a superb post, especially about the mobility issue folks. I so frequently neglect counting my blessings. ChuckThere is something special about cities waking up. Double special if that city is Santiago de Compostela.
Around 6:30am I saw people walking to work, a family of 4 sightseeing and taking pictures already (they were probably jet lagged) and about half a dozen peregrinos making their way to Praza do Obradoiro.
I stopped at the Praza to look at the cathedral and said a quick prayer, to say thanks and ask for strength on this walk.
It's really impressive how you can walk 10 minutes west of the Catedral de Santiago and be out in the countryside.
First time I used my hiking light. I also wrapped my backpack on a bright yellow rainproof shell. Does it help? I don't know, but it makes me feel better.
Dirt path. There is a really strong smell from eucalyptus after the first hill. That smell combined with the fog rolling in at 55 degrees makes you feel like you are walking through the biggest diffuser in the world. Intoxicating.
Switched to road walking. There seems to be lots of road walking in this etapa. 99% of the time I walk on the left side of the road, so I can see cars as they approach me. Of course, there is the 1% when only a little bit of sidewalk is on the right side of the road.
I heard a car and didn't stop walking (my mistake) it almost clipped me from behindI was fine, just a bit shook up. I thanked my lucky stars and remembered the advice to STOP walking when you hear a car and get as far away from the road as possible. No incidents since.
If you walk this way, do yourself a favor and get a coffee and a bocadillo at Os Arcos. I almost missed it since it's 20 meters from the camino, but it helped me so much.
Also, stop at Casa Pancho. Warmest welcome I've had at a bar in Spain. The owner is so kind and loves pilgrims. You can tell he's walked it many, many times.
The pilgrims walking seem friendly enough. LOTS of Buen Caminos from pilgrims and locals. Counted at least 25 pilgrims going to Fisterre. Chinese, Brazilians, Argentines, couple Brits, A few Spaniards, a few Portuguese.
Saw a HUGE group of Argentines at Agua Pesada (at least 30) walking back into Santiago. They looked like a church group. They were blasting out loud Cumbia VilleraI'll let you google it.
The Agua Pesada climb is tough, but there are plenty of places to stop at to rest and catch your breath.
Ponte Maceira made me feel like I was in the middle ages. Pictures don't do it justice. Next time I'll plan to stay there.
Staying at Albergue Cotón in Negreira. First Spanish town that I see that doesn't have a lively central plaza. Seems like a place you go through, not so much a place to "hang out" at. No complaints, just noticing things.
The Albergue is fantastic. It looks full. I was the first one to arrive at 1:30pm or so. Love those individual bathrooms with toilet/sink/shower combos. They also have paid washers and dryers and throw in detergent for free.
Staff was very adamant saying that this town has the last full supermarket for a while so I made some bocadillos de tortilla for breakfast and for later.
There is a large group (8 or so) of pilgrims with mobility issues staying at the hostel. Folks with walkers and wheelchairs. I love seeing this so much. I find it incredibly inspiring.
Off to Lago tomorrow. Thank you for reading this far.
Epa pana! Pa’ lante!2nd day. Negreira to Lago (Albergue Monte Aro), 27ish km.
Woke up to a snoring concert around 4amturned out I had front row tickets to it. That dude sounded like a pressure cooker 2 octaves deep.
I couldn't go back to sleep, so I decided to start my day. I left my backpack ready so I just had to make my way to the bathroom and kitchen.
Had breakfast at a leisurely pace. Bread, tomato and tortilla. Listened to a podcast.
Hit the road at 5:15am. Pitch black outside. Used my light. Didn't see anyone till 7:15 or so. Walked through an unpaved path for quite a bit. Blair Witch Project vibes.
At around 8am I befriended a couple Spaniards and ended up walking the whole day with them.
It's amazing how you can be having a good conversation and walk 5 km or more without realizing it.
We probably spent at least 3 hours talking about the Spanish language and differences between the Venezuelan one I speak and theirs. Love to learn new things.
HUGE hill right after As Maroñas.
Turned out I forgot the bocadillos de tortilla at the previous hostelluckily I had some sultanas with me.
Ended up making it to Albergue Monte Aro at around 1:45pm and shared a couple cañas with my new found friends. They kept walking 6 km more or so to stay at Oliveira. Great, solid people. Highlight of my day.
The cuban rice and milanesa for dinner hit the spot. Met an Irishman from County Sligo which coincidentally is where my great grandmother was born before taking a ship to (South) America. He has walked more than 1000 km from Le Puy. So many great stories.
Albergue Monte Aro is a gem of a place and Tania is an angel on earth. Warmth and kindness with every interaction. Seriously, do yourself a favor and stop here. Hospitality with a capital H. Either going to Fisterre or coming back to Santiago.
Off to Cee tomorrow. Thank you for reading.
Great post! Walked it at august 8th this year.
Agree with casa pancho and ponte maceira. Did take a picture
Well writtenThere is something special about cities waking up. Double special if that city is Santiago de Compostela.
Around 6:30am I saw people walking to work, a family of 4 sightseeing and taking pictures already (they were probably jet lagged) and about half a dozen peregrinos making their way to Praza do Obradoiro.
I stopped at the Praza to look at the cathedral and said a quick prayer, to say thanks and ask for strength on this walk.
It's really impressive how you can walk 10 minutes west of the Catedral de Santiago and be out in the countryside.
First time I used my hiking light. I also wrapped my backpack on a bright yellow rainproof shell. Does it help? I don't know, but it makes me feel better.
Dirt path. There is a really strong smell from eucalyptus after the first hill. That smell combined with the fog rolling in at 55 degrees makes you feel like you are walking through the biggest diffuser in the world. Intoxicating.
Switched to road walking. There seems to be lots of road walking in this etapa. 99% of the time I walk on the left side of the road, so I can see cars as they approach me. Of course, there is the 1% when only a little bit of sidewalk is on the right side of the road.
I heard a car and didn't stop walking (my mistake) it almost clipped me from behindI was fine, just a bit shook up. I thanked my lucky stars and remembered the advice to STOP walking when you hear a car and get as far away from the road as possible. No incidents since.
If you walk this way, do yourself a favor and get a coffee and a bocadillo at Os Arcos. I almost missed it since it's 20 meters from the camino, but it helped me so much.
Also, stop at Casa Pancho. Warmest welcome I've had at a bar in Spain. The owner is so kind and loves pilgrims. You can tell he's walked it many, many times.
The pilgrims walking seem friendly enough. LOTS of Buen Caminos from pilgrims and locals. Counted at least 25 pilgrims going to Fisterre. Chinese, Brazilians, Argentines, couple Brits, A few Spaniards, a few Portuguese.
Saw a HUGE group of Argentines at Agua Pesada (at least 30) walking back into Santiago. They looked like a church group. They were blasting out loud Cumbia VilleraI'll let you google it.
The Agua Pesada climb is tough, but there are plenty of places to stop at to rest and catch your breath.
Ponte Maceira made me feel like I was in the middle ages. Pictures don't do it justice. Next time I'll plan to stay there.
Staying at Albergue Cotón in Negreira. First Spanish town that I see that doesn't have a lively central plaza. Seems like a place you go through, not so much a place to "hang out" at. No complaints, just noticing things.
The Albergue is fantastic. It looks full. I was the first one to arrive at 1:30pm or so. Love those individual bathrooms with toilet/sink/shower combos. They also have paid washers and dryers and throw in detergent for free.
Staff was very adamant saying that this town has the last full supermarket for a while so I made some bocadillos de tortilla for breakfast and for later.
There is a large group (8 or so) of pilgrims with mobility issues staying at the hostel. Folks with walkers and wheelchairs. I love seeing this so much. I find it incredibly inspiring.
Off to Lago tomorrow. Thank you for reading this far.
And a big thankyou to you HugoDay 5: Fisterre to Santiago - Reentry.
I don't know why I did this to myself100% my fault.
I have a ticket to the 10:34am AVE to Madrid, I am meeting my best friend from high school in Madrid.
However, I also mailed my iPad and stuff I didn't need for the Camino to Ivar and apparently the office doesn't open till 10am.
I thought there would be a bus early into Santiago, but the earliest one I could find is at 8am and doesn't arrive till 11am.
Time to find a solution.
I found this Bla Bla Car service that will pick me up from Fisterre @ 8:10am and drop me off close to the Santiago Train Station by 9:20am, so I have to walk 15 minutes to Casa Ivar, wait till 10am when they open, retrieve my stuff and then walk 15 minutes walk to the station. It's the AVE so there is a bag scanner.
I can do this. Playing it a bit close, but I can do this. I'll make sure to give myself more time next time, but right now this is THIS time.
————————
I wake up at 6:30am, pack my stuff, shower (what a concept! showering before going out) and make my way down by 7:30am. I want to get some fresh air before I am stuck on a car for 1 hour and a train for 3ish hours.
I can't remember if this place has breakfast.... there is a 24 hour coffee machine at the lavandería next door, it will have to do.
I mention to Ramon that I left my key upstairs and that I am on my way out.
Turns out, Hostal Rivas DOES offer breakfast. Ramon just asks "¿No quieres tomarte algo antes de irte?".
Ramon at Hostal Rivas is a gentleman and a scholar. Top class chap. He has a dozen breakfast tables setup since 7am with a shiny, buttery croissant at each one. Just waiting on each person to wake up and come on down for it. He knows people are walking that day or catching a long ride back home, so they need a pick me up.
I gladly accept a cafe con leche, some bread with serrano and enjoy the croissant.
"Better than a Hilton" I tell him. He smiles and accepts the compliment. We say goodbye.
Bla Bla Car stops at 8:08 am in front, I recognize a pilgrim from the app, Laura, and say hello. She walked from Irún and turns out she is catching the same AVE to Madrid I am. 2 more pilgrims join up, they walked from Porto. We all become fast friends.
Community it's being in a place where you don't have to explain yourself, everyone just "gets you". I am so glad I found it. It will definitely ease the reentry.
Our driver, Luis, is taking his father to the doctor in Santiago and drives pilgrim back to the train station. He mentions that he has lived in Galicia his whole life and has 36 cousins. He's never walked the Camino, but he enjoys talking to pilgrims that have one it.
We spent the hour long ride talking about our experiences. The good, the bad and the magical.
We arrive at 9:20, I ask Luis to please take care of Galicia.
It's 13 celsius outside and the air is misty. I start walking uphill to the historic center and make it to Casa Ivar @ 9:36am. A huge vegetable truck is parked in front as they shuttle goods to nearby restaurants and bars.
The streets are slightly wet and there are no pilgrims around, the ones walking have already left and it's too early for the ones arriving today.
I start pacing and embrace the "Espíritu del Camino", if I don't make the 10:34 train, I'll catch the 8pm one and arrive at Madrid at 11pm.
A couple arrives to drop off their carry on bags.
A small miracle happens and someone arrives at Casa Ivar at 9:52am.
God bless her. I greet her, ask her for my package and as she gets it, my eyes get wet. I am making my train after all. I thank her so profusely that the couple behind me gets a bit startled.
I open up the box and drop it at a recycling bin, man, I am glad I put my iPad and other stuff in a sling bag. I put it around my shoulders and huff it to the station.
I make it to the AVE line by 10:11am. I see my friend Laura from the Bla Bla Car and tell her "Buen Camino". We laugh, it's a habit. We get on the train.
I sit down next to a couple from Mississippi, they walked from Vigo to Santiago to celebrate his 60th birthday.
Writing this somewhere between Santiago and Ourense.
Thank you Galicia, Thank you Camino and Thank you for reading. Stay safe out there.
-Hugo
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?