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How Dangerous are the Pyrenees?

GerryDel

Active Member
Time of past OR future Camino
Camino Frances, July 2014
This is kind of an offshoot of another thread where someone mentioned that backpacks can be dangerous when going over the Pyrenees. I'm wondering just how dangerous the Pyrenees are. I assumed it was a fairly well established trail with minimal danger. I have some experience in hiking hills and mountains, such as the Half Dome at Yosemite and Harney Peak in South Dakota. Where would it rank in comparison to those? I am especially asking in regards to mid July travel. I know people can die on any high trail if they get lost or are in bad weather, but on a relatively nice weather day, how dangerous would it be? I'm taking my son, who is 16. Would it be too dangerous for him? I took my oldest son, who was 13 at the time to both the Half Dome and Harney Peak and had no major issues.
 
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The first edition came out in 2003 and has become the go-to-guide for many pilgrims over the years. It is shipping with a Pilgrim Passport (Credential) from the cathedral in Santiago de Compostela.
Hi,

I can't compare your US tracks but the SJPdP route is as you say on well marked, well defined trail with no ridge walking or climbing necessary.

Sticking to the track the danger is minimal. Of course mountain weather in most parts of the world is very changeble and in bad weather walkers can lose the trail and potentially get into trouble.

You sound like an experienced man who I suspect would listen to local weather warnings and not take risks.
 
Absolutely, we won't walk if there's the danger of bad weather.
 
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This is kind of an offshoot of another thread where someone mentioned that backpacks can be dangerous when going over the Pyrenees. I'm wondering just how dangerous the Pyrenees are. I assumed it was a fairly well established trail with minimal danger. I have some experience in hiking hills and mountains, such as the Half Dome at Yosemite and Harney Peak in South Dakota. Where would it rank in comparison to those? I am especially asking in regards to mid July travel. I know people can die on any high trail if they get lost or are in bad weather, but on a relatively nice weather day, how dangerous would it be? I'm taking my son, who is 16. Would it be too dangerous for him? I took my oldest son, who was 13 at the time to both the Half Dome and Harney Peak and had no major issues.
Hi - I've hiked up the Half Dome trail several times, as well as many others in Yosemite. The walk over the Pyrenees is on a one lane paved road for a lot of the way up. It is somewhat relentlessly steep up to Orisson, better after that. When you leave the road the path is well worn, you go up on paths for a ways, then it turns into a sort of gravel road, then back to paths. If you send your backpack like others have suggested you'll be tired but fine. Check out http://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/crossing-the-pyrenees-hyperlapse.26568 for a speedy view of things. It should allay your fears. Above all, enjoy it. And I think I counted that I took over ten buses, planes and trains to get there, so know what you feel on that angle. But get there I did, and enjoyed it immensely - Cherry
 
Before starting off check the weather and trail conditions in Saint-Jean at the Pilgrim Office of the Amis du Chemin de Saint Jacques , 39 rue de la Citadelle. Their telephone is 05 59 37 05 09. In season the pilgrims office is open from 7h30 to 12h30 and then from 13h30 to 22h. They can also provide you with a Credential and on site lodging assistance.

Buen Camino,

Margaret Meredith
 
We went over on Wednesday June 4th. Pilgrims office said it would be fine. Maybe rain maybe not 'you'll be ok'. Wrong! The weather was apparently unexpected but awful. Rained heavily most of the way, icy wind, limited visibility and mud!!! Particularly bad after Orrisson. And we were not as well equipped as we needed to be. We weren't carrying big packs but were still very very happy (exhausted!) to arrive safe n sound in Roncesvalles :) now we totally claim legend status for that day! It certainly gave us a good bench mark for 'hard day' from then on 'so on a scale of 0 to 'the Pyrenees' - how hard will tomorrow be?' - this is our night time chat as we read the guide before bed!!! Along with checking the weather on the internet!
Enjoy your Camino.
 
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Dangerous? No, if you follow the advice of hospitaleros or the pilgrim´s office. But it requires some careful planning, in any climate or season. It is not climbing, but it is a mountain pass.
There is also an alternative, easier way, by Valcarlos (look for the threads about it, in the forum) .
I don't understand your comment about backpacks...they may be dangerous only when you are crossing an improvised or unsafe bridge over a river (they may fill with water quickly if you fall, but I suppose you already know that). And this is not the case on this stage, anyway.
Walking with your sons will be a great experience. You are going to remember this forever!
Buen camino!
 
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Watch out for high wind speeds and gusting. They can cause problems during any season. While on the CF last month a women had a serious accident (I believe a broken shoulder) when the wind picked her up and dropped her. I was going up a day before and the wind, though not as bad as the next day, did blow me sideways and a man caught me and stopped me from falling over.
Stefania
 
I was there on the day when the accident happened.The weather was atrocious hail thunder mist rain high winds,my advice would be is to make sure you have the right gear to keep you warm and dry and have sufficient food with you and you will be fine.
I never felt in danger apart from the thunder and lightning .
 
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As is probably clear from the others posting on this thread the only threat on this track is typical unpredictable mountain weather. The hazard is disorientation in cloud and hypothermia, particularly at the end of the day when it gets dark and you are out of energy. There is also the potential for dehydration on a warm day ... there are only a couple of places with water. As indicated in other posts the wind can be quite forceful. The routefinding just below the col de Lepoeder where there is a junction with a GR trail and a road is somewhat confusing.

The trail itself ... You could drive a vehicle over nearly all of it and in fact a significant portion is paved road with light traffic on it. Most of the switchbacks have well defined short cuts.
 
Thanks all for the input. It doesn't sound too bad. I will definitely keep an eye on the weather.
 
The only danger is that you have too much stuff in your backpack. I never replaced any of the items I lost along the way - indicating I didn't need them in the first place! For example - pair of shorts when the weather was always cold (the month of May) not needed!
 
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My take is that the Pyrenees is that it is not dangerous.... the problem is that, it is the first of 30+ days of a long walk. The path is wide and uncomplicated, but it is a long, long up hill followed by a very steep down hill that will take a toll on your knees and feet.
The biggest problem you must consider is that the next day you will walk another 25K. There will be no resting your body for a week. And the next day is another 25K
My advise for the Pyrenees is.... send your pack ahead. There will be lots of challenge in the walk that day.
Send you pack ahead (for one day only) and save your knees and feet.
 
As is probably clear from the others posting on this thread the only threat on this track is typical unpredictable mountain weather. The hazard is disorientation in cloud and hypothermia, particularly at the end of the day when it gets dark and you are out of energy. There is also the potential for dehydration on a warm day ... there are only a couple of places with water. As indicated in other posts the wind can be quite forceful. The routefinding just below the col de Lepoeder where there is a junction with a GR trail and a road is somewhat confusing.

The trail itself ... You could drive a vehicle over nearly all of it and in fact a significant portion is paved road with light traffic on it. Most of the switchbacks have well defined short cuts.
This response hits the nail on the head as to dangers. Perhaps dehydration leads to more of the other problems. Do your best to stay dry in wet weather; conserve sweat not water. That means drink more, slow down and try not to go like hell. The rule is drink BEFORE you get thirsty and then drink more. Remember there are 6 ways up any mountain: Drink, drink, drink. Eat, eat, eat... What we teach here to the kids is: If you find yourself lost, tie your shoe laces together and hug a tree.
 
This is kind of an offshoot of another thread where someone mentioned that backpacks can be dangerous when going over the Pyrenees. I'm wondering just how dangerous the Pyrenees are. I assumed it was a fairly well established trail with minimal danger. I have some experience in hiking hills and mountains, such as the Half Dome at Yosemite and Harney Peak in South Dakota. Where would it rank in comparison to those? I am especially asking in regards to mid July travel. I know people can die on any high trail if they get lost or are in bad weather, but on a relatively nice weather day, how dangerous would it be? I'm taking my son, who is 16. Would it be too dangerous for him? I took my oldest son, who was 13 at the time to both the Half Dome and Harney Peak and had no major issues.
 
The 2024 Camino guides will be coming out little by little. Here is a collection of the ones that are out so far.
If the men in the Pilgrims Office in SJPdP say it may be windy or rainy be very prepared for the worst, although I'd have thought only the wind might be a problem in July. I crossed at the very end of March 2010 and was told it might rain and be windy and walked against gale force winds in a blinding blizzard where hypothermia was a huge problem and I and the people around me were all worried about getting our bad weather clothing out of our backpacks in case the contents immediately flew out and ended up in Italy. I only took the chance after I'd lost the feelings in my legs and knew I couldn't go any further. I wouldn't recommend sending your backpack on in case you need your emergency clothes and you'll certainly need your food and water by the time you see the little refuge just inside the Spanish border. Besides, the extra weight might stop any sudden gusts from blowing you off your feet, they really can be that strong.
In 2010 I didn't think the way was very well marked on the French side but maybe someone's finally found some yellow paint by now. I followed the small red and white marks whilst walking the road section but met many people who had taken the wrong road. The path where you leave the road was well marked though.
Unfortunately an Austrian man did succumb to hypothermia just an hour behind me so the worst can happen but that said it was much earlier in the year than you're going but I would recommend being prepared for the worst conditions. Crossing the Pyrenees was still an unforgettable experience and even on the first day the friendship displayed by fellow pilgrims was incredible and I knew by the end of that day I was going to enjoy the camino and I'm sure you and your son will have a great time together.
Buen Camino
 
I have some experience in hiking hills and mountains, such as the Half Dome at Yosemite and Harney Peak in South Dakota.

I'm not familiar with Harney Peak, but I've been up Half Dome a couple of times and I'd consider that more difficult than the Pyrenees. If Half Dome isn't a problem for you, it's unlikely that the Pyrenees will cause you any trouble. (Barring any weather-related issues, of course!)

-- Ryan
 
Here's the thing: in 2010 there were pilgrims stuck in early May at Orisson, their stranding even covered in the French news while I was enduring the unexpected freeze further back in Gascony. Later, not far off summer, the pass was again closed or risky and I took the Valcarlos route after advice and a few days' wait in SJPDP.

Next year, when I continued from Pamplona (where I had left off) in early Feb and freezing but clear conditions, pilgrims who overtook me - most do - reported that crossing the Pyrenees via the pass had been no trouble at all, though in the heart of winter.

From this I learned that the Pyrenees are as unpredictable as the Aussie Alps and that the Valcarlos route is a great track in its own right.

Bon chemin

Rob
 
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If you don't fancy going over the mountain there's always the safer road route.
the main problem in wet weather is mud, it is very slippery going down the Spanish side (very slippery) and most people who didn't have two hiking poles or less were having BIG problems, some were breaking off branches to use, I heard of a woman who slipped and broke her leg, bone sticking out etc, air lifted by copter to hospital. I had two poles but got caught out just in veiw of Roncevalles, no problem though, just paddled into the stream and washed off. I wore sandals the whole way.
 
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If you don't fancy going over the mountain there's always the safer road route.
the main problem in wet weather is mud, it is very slippery going down the Spanish side (very slippery) and most people who didn't have two hiking poles or less were having BIG problems, some were breaking off branches to use, I heard of a woman who slipped and broke her leg, bone sticking out etc, air lifted by copter to hospital. I had two poles but got caught out just in veiw of Roncevalles, no problem though, just paddled into the stream and washed off. I wore sandals the whole way.

Yes I think we'll take the road route if there's any sign of bad weather.
 
It's a hike, not a mountain climbing expedition. Japanese guy 85 years old with 79 year old wife both did it in late May carrying much bigger packs than my 12 kilo pack. Blind guy from Finland also made it with his wife who was pushing a baby carriage with two kids in it. Two young women also walked it while nursing babies less than 5 months old.

If Neil Armstrong could walk to the moon, you can walk over this hill.
 
This is not a physically risky fall off the edge type of trail such as Half Dome. The danger is during hypothermic conditions, getting disoriented in heavy fog or storms and losing your way, finally missing the turn to the west near the top. Pay attention to the weather.
 
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How dangerous are the Pyrenees?


Well....in between the third and fourth caw pastures..near the goat herd...there is a ram that has a particularly large chip on its shoulder. It has been known to trash talk and request lunch money.

Alan

Class of 2012
 
I wasn't planning on walking the Camino again for another 4 years but looking at the forum pages has made me seriously consider going again in 2016, it's so addictive. So I've started re reading J. Brierley's guide, 6th edition, that I used in 2010. Reading the 1st stage across the Pyrenees I noticed something I'd forgotten before. When I replied to your post last week I mentioned the little hut just inside the Spanish boarder, a true God send in the weather we endured that day. This hut is not mentioned either on the map or on the route notes but it may have been built just after the 6th edition was published; but it does mention a hut on the French side. I remember looking for this hut but I couldn't find it, though it may have been due to poor visibility and the fact the weather was attracting most of my attention. However, someone else said he did see a hut off the trail but it was locked. I don't know if Brierley's guide has been updated but I was wondering if the hut on the French side does exist and is the one on the Spanish side still there and is it as well equipped with fire making materials as it was, thankfully, four years ago? I was just wondering as if I do make the pilgrimage again in 2 years it will have to be in Mar/Apr again. I may not have stayed in that hut overnight but it still gets my vote for the most welcome sight on the entire Camino.
 
I'm a few days into the camino and have passed the Pyrenees I'm 16 and doing it with my uncle, and managed fine.
However you should take advice from pilgrims office in St Jean on what route to do in what conditions.
 
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I wasn't planning on walking the Camino again for another 4 years but looking at the forum pages has made me seriously consider going again in 2016, it's so addictive. So I've started re reading J. Brierley's guide, 6th edition, that I used in 2010. Reading the 1st stage across the Pyrenees I noticed something I'd forgotten before. When I replied to your post last week I mentioned the little hut just inside the Spanish boarder, a true God send in the weather we endured that day. This hut is not mentioned either on the map or on the route notes but it may have been built just after the 6th edition was published; but it does mention a hut on the French side. I remember looking for this hut but I couldn't find it, though it may have been due to poor visibility and the fact the weather was attracting most of my attention. However, someone else said he did see a hut off the trail but it was locked. I don't know if Brierley's guide has been updated but I was wondering if the hut on the French side does exist and is the one on the Spanish side still there and is it as well equipped with fire making materials as it was, thankfully, four years ago? I was just wondering as if I do make the pilgrimage again in 2 years it will have to be in Mar/Apr again. I may not have stayed in that hut overnight but it still gets my vote for the most welcome sight on the entire Camino.

There was one well built hut. I wouldn't know which side of the border it was on. It was open. However, by the time you get there you are well into the trees and shielded from the worst of any weather. Roncesvalles is close.
 
Danger is a function of current weather conditions (seek and heed advice of Pilgrims office in SJPDP) and one's personal fitness (no points awarded for failure to heed one's limits). Walking the Valcarlos route in early February, I thought several times about pitching a shelter under one of the many electrical transmission line towers, and tried to enter a closed building at the highway short of the Ibaneta Pass (was it an ornithological facility?) -- it was steep, long, very cold and very wet with no place to stop after a few houses past Valcarlos and Roncesvalles. In the end, pressing on made the first evening with fellow pilgrims all the sweeter.
 
It's a hike, not a mountain climbing expedition. Japanese guy 85 years old with 79 year old wife both did it in late May carrying much bigger packs than my 12 kilo pack. Blind guy from Finland also made it with his wife who was pushing a baby carriage with two kids in it. Two young women also walked it while nursing babies less than 5 months old.

If Neil Armstrong could walk to the moon, you can walk over this hill.

Walking to the moon! That's quite an image! I think there was a rocket involved? But I was young, alas, and cannot remember for sure. :)

Anyways I went over the top in fog so thick you couldn't see the peregrino two steps ahead. Sometimes the fog would thin for a few moments and we could see the silhouettes of enormous, ghostly horses standing like statues beside the road. There was the constant clanking of bells from invisible sheep. It was so mysterious and memorable. We stayed in groups that day so we wouldn't get lost or step off the wrong way. It was like a dream.
 
The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.
Hello,
Just another small refection as the title is "How dangerous are the Pyrenees". The pass isn't so difficult between SJPdP and Roncesvalles because it's still close to the sea and you climb in fact a long hill. The Pyrenees are more wild in the middle, for example in the mini state of Andorra.
Buen camino.
 
It is not dangerous as long as you don't encounter bad weather (snow or fog). Or Bigfoot. The first is possible, the second unlikely.
 
Just back from the Camino, finished 7/20. We had no problems from SJPDP to Roncesvalles, although we did get in a thick mist and rain, which the pilgrim office didn't warn us about. We just took it slow and stayed on the trail.
 
Train for your next Camino on California's Santa Catalina Island March 16-19
I wasn't planning on walking the Camino again for another 4 years but looking at the forum pages has made me seriously consider going again in 2016, it's so addictive. So I've started re reading J. Brierley's guide, 6th edition, that I used in 2010. Reading the 1st stage across the Pyrenees I noticed something I'd forgotten before. When I replied to your post last week I mentioned the little hut just inside the Spanish boarder, a true God send in the weather we endured that day. This hut is not mentioned either on the map or on the route notes but it may have been built just after the 6th edition was published; but it does mention a hut on the French side. I remember looking for this hut but I couldn't find it, though it may have been due to poor visibility and the fact the weather was attracting most of my attention. However, someone else said he did see a hut off the trail but it was locked. I don't know if Brierley's guide has been updated but I was wondering if the hut on the French side does exist and is the one on the Spanish side still there and is it as well equipped with fire making materials as it was, thankfully, four years ago? I was just wondering as if I do make the pilgrimage again in 2 years it will have to be in Mar/Apr again. I may not have stayed in that hut overnight but it still gets my vote for the most welcome sight on the entire Camino.

Yes we stopped in this hut with other pilgrims on our way over. Kept us warm for a few precious minutes so we could regather ourselves for the final part of the walk.
 

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