LIVE from the Camino Hi from Burgos

[capecorps]

Bright lights of the city after having been a bit of a country boy for a while. Truly spectacular. Just when you think it can´t get any better, it does. Just keeps piling on.

Ony caveat is that the pilgrimage seems to have become a totally secular experience . Bit of a non sequiter.

 

[Deleted member 3000]

the pilgrimage seems to have become a totally secular experience

A commonly quoted statistic, perhaps even accurate, says that only 10% of the Spanish regularly attend church. The pilgrimage probably follows in that vein.

 

[capecorps]

Am now in Legidos spending the afternoon in the bright sunshine getting quietly sloshed on excellent wine costing 1/2 a euro that would easily run to eight dollars a glass in Canada and smoking Drum tobacco, the cigarrettte connoisser´s choice, no longer available in Canada. This is a very small village and the only business in town is the bar attached to the Alberge.

Spent an extra day in Burgos savouring the fleshpots of the big city. Pulled out all the stops on my last evening and had ice cream, hot chocalate that could float a battleship and churros, three morcilla (blood sausage - the specialty of the town) bocadillos followed by the full pilgrim´s menu all of course washed down by copious quantities of vino tinto. Have been moving at a fairly liesurely pace and while all around me pilgrims are piercing blisters and nursing assorted ankle, knee, hip and other internal problems, I seem pretty well immune. Just took a shower in cold water. As per usual left my shampoo at the last Alberge - my way accross northern Spain is marked by forgotten shampoo. Living out of a backpack is a crash course in organization.

The body as a machine: you can really sense it it as you climb those hills. Ball bearings and levers in ankles, knees and hips moving in unison periodically flooded bathed with fluids of energy. The occassional grinding and twinges easily greased, I find by the liberal consumption of red wine and olive oil (have to admit - I drink the flavoursome olive oil the food here is cooked in). Sleeping well: although I don´t snore, I rather like listening to five or six snorers all in different timbres: they seem to be having a subconscious conversation like a symphony orchestra -rather soothing.

This is the best I´ve felt in ages. Deliberately travel alone and have left all electronic devices behind - no camera, phone tablet etc except the occasional E-Mail to family and this posting. No books or TV. With no distractions, one is forced to meet: horror of horrors - yourself. And I rather like who I´ve met.

My real journey however is a Catholic pilgrimage. It has been profound and very sad. I cry at the images of the hopeful young mother and her baby son juxtaposed to the mature lady holding the broken body of her crucified son. God came down to us and we killed him in the cruellest manner imaginable. But enough of this because it will make you uncomfortable.

 

[yogabanana]

Cape corps. Wonderful !!! I am in Burgos right now, traveling on my own and loving it! Loved your post .

 

[MichaelB10398]

Cape, what a delightful read; thank you for posting. Your Camino sounds perfect. It never hurts to experience the great wines of Spain.

Your pilgrimage is the kind that I treasure, admire, and enjoy hearing about. I am not as keen when the Camino is used as exercise or any other purpose than its original objective. What is even more interesting is that you enjoy what you see in the mirror. This is a blessing that bespeaks of a life well lived.

He lives. Thank you for sharing with us. His peace fill your life and carry you through each step.

 

[Deleted member 3000]

It never hurts to experience the great wines of Spain.

Or the "fleshpots!!!"

 

[Anniesantiago]

Wonderful post Carp! Where are you now?

 

[Venado]

Hi,
Just like to say I´m in Burgos. Been walking very much at my own pace -took me 22 days to get here. But did too much too fast up to Belgra...whatever its called and got hurt. Limped badly into the Oca town and next day v slow to john of the nettle. Had to get the bus from there next day to Burgos. Didn´t know what it was at first but sure it´s tendonitis. Mostly gone now after 4 days rest - but i could hardly walk in sandals around the town at first.
Was going to get the bus to Leon and break the camino up- bought the ticket yesterday but then met someone who had done the camino last year and he´s encouraged me to keep on trying. thought about it and am going to walk on tomorrow into the.... desert ? (god help me, hope the tendonitis doesn´t flare up) I think i would regret it if i didn´t try and walk the whole thing which was my original intention.

Apart from that one problem (major problem) it´s been really wonderful,beautiful- tears have poured out of me at times. I walk alone but have also met some great people and had significant chats. Everyone i meet goes on ahead of me that´s the only other thing. will maybe ask significant people for emails from now on.

Oh yeah- it´s my birthday today. Adam who I met at lunch yesterday advised me to check into a hotel and treat myself, which i did- the london hotel 43 euros plus 8 percent is very nice. Also treated myselff to a massage and good meal.

Paul

 

[Anniesantiago]

Happy birthday Paul !!!

Just go slower and walk smaller stages. Gel heel lifts help my tendinitis along with a few days rest. Ultreia!

 

[capecorps]

Went into a darkened church this evening to pray. As I was leaving, I passed a thousand year old, life sized statue of Jesus on a donkey holding a palm. The statue had very life like eyes and as I passed, I felt the eyes following me. I went back and stared directly into the eyes and not only did they move, but Jesus´ face changed expression as well. At that moment a couple entered the church. I explained the phenomenon to them. The wife just glanced at the statue and started telling me how they liked to look at old churches. The husband however stood transfixed staring at Jesus´ eyes and agreed that the eyes definately move.

Check it out next time you in Mansilla de las Mulas.

 

[capecorps]

Portomarine. within striking distance of the prize.

Bed staked, laundry done, showered and enjoying one of the great wines of Spain. Looking around for a moment to collect my thoughts, I find that the Camino has changed. Where have these rowdy and joyous Spanish youngsters come from; who are all these clean looking pilgrims I don´t recognize. Its all good as they say at the club.

No blisters or other ailments to report. Seem to be thriving on a steady diet of tobbaco, coffee, wine, meat, long walks and fresh air.

The Camino has certainly served up a sumptuous banquet. After thirty years in my office cubicle looking at government regulation beige, my eyes have been feasting upon vista upon vista, long dark tunnels through the forest, layers of mountains as far as the eye can see, white suspended clouds in an impossibly blue sky, green fields gently waving in the soft breeze, red earth. purple hills, red, lilac and yellow flowers, narrow medieval streets, castles, palaces, .....

10:20 pm. All the lights are off and pilgrims asleep. So to you I bid goodnight

 

[KaryninAtlanta]

Cape,
Thanks for such great posts. I am sorry we will not walk awhile on the trail at the same time as I don't even arrive in country until 20 June. Sounds like you are seeing things with fresh eyes and that is a hope I too have for my experience.
Peace,
Karyn

 

[capecorps]

The Camino has also served up a generous helping of people from all walks of life, conditions and nations.

From a group of likely (middle aged) lads from the north of England happily engaged on the Great Camino Pub Crawl to serious mission orientated (Santiago or bust) early risers; fitness people; spiritual people; nice people; bad people who become nice on further acquaintance; doctors; accountants; engineers; indigents; recently laid off people (a lot of these) retired people; butchers; bakers; candlestick makers; young, middle aged, old, very old people; hale and hearty; halt and lame; feeble and determined; pretty girls, lettuce eating gawkey girls, all angles and edgy; ice cold Nordic blondes; sultry southern beauties; smiling people; scowling people who reluctantly smile at a cheerful ¨Buen Camino¨: a great writhing, seething mass of humanity laughing and crying their way inexorably towards Santiago.

Conversations move at lightening speed from the mundane to the intensely personal:
Where you from?
What´s your name?
Why´re you doing the Camino?

People are devastatingly honest proving that its easier to confide in a total stranger than your nearest and dearest. After exchanging life stories you will inevitably see the same person again: now on the open plain, then in the forest, then in a big city bar. Paths cross, recross, criss cross
never to cross again.

On my own personal quest as a Roman Catholic pilgrimage, I feel like Diogenes with his lamp doomed to wander the earth in search of an honest man. Practicing Catholics are as rare on the Camino as hound´s teeth. When I attend mass, there is only me and a few elderly Spanish women, their plaintive singing sounding a death knoll over the dying body of my Church. Where are Her strong knights and stout defenders. All watching the same TV program. Like sheep they all repeat the same mantra of clerical abuse and Her supposed fabulous wealth. But there I go again, making you uncomfortable.

 

[capecorps]

Body, Mind and Soul.

I have been back in Canada a few days and have had the luxury of reflecting on my Camino.

Body:

No question here. The Camino gives you a strong healthy body in a very short time. You could not duplicate it in any health club or fitness program. On the Camino, there’s no if, and, or buts: you have to walk: up mountains, down mountains, through the scorching sun and in the pouring rain. Physical discomfort has to take a back seat to the priority of having a bed for the night. Good food, good sleep, good wine and lots of exercise: the Camino has left me as strong as a horse.

Mind:

Mental health equals happiness which equals human interconnectedness. I realized that I was not alone. The problem I was wrestling with was universal for most of my age group: if you have sufficient wealth, time and health to do whatever you want to do: what do you do? I met other greybeards like myself from many and varied counties who were in the same situation. I was not alone. I was connected to the human condition and the Camino has left me happy in this respect.

Soul:

The Camino was constituted to nourish and strengthen the soul. In this respect, I was on my own. Modern man denies the existence of a soul. This is fine because I’ve always been a contrarian.