LIVE from the Camino Héctor Walks His Way

[HBS60]

My name is Héctor. (I’ve been called many things)
I’m a 64 y/o retired Hispanic gentleman about to embark in something I never thought I could do.
But I’m here, in SJPDP, on my last night before starting my Camino early in the morning.
I don’t know fully why I’m doing this, but something has been calling me to do this, even though I’m not clear.
I attended the mass at the SJPDp church. The service was in French with Euskera /Basque songs, ending with a Pilgrim blessing. I didn’t understand any of it, just like there are so many things in life I still don’t understand. Perhaps the Camino will teach me something, provided I’m teachable.
Just as the initial segment to Orisson is steep, so is the learning curve. This isn’t a walk in the park, but a journey deep within as I attempt to heal and unburden myself from that which I don’t need.
I am grateful for the advice and support I’ve received in this forum.
I must now try to get some rest, because tomorrow I’m going for a walk…

 

[Richmond Gardner]

Good luck on your journey, sir. With an open heart and searching mind, you have an adventure ahead.
Buen Camino

 

[Aidan21]

I wish you so very well on your journey Héctor. Go in peace and may you find whatever it is that brings you that peace.
Aidan

 

[naplesdon]

You have only just begun. Mind the slippery slope down to Roncesvalles if you take the left path after the summit.

 

[Theatregal]

Wishing you well on your way Héctor. I remember this wonderful first day from SJPP so clearly. Sure and steady and remember to look back once in a while

 

[trecile]

You have only just begun. Mind the slippery slope down to Roncesvalles if you take the left path after the summit.

I recommend that you be safe and don't take the slippery slope on the left. Take the gentle route to the right.

 

[kiwi-couple]

Thank you for sharing camino with us all. Buen camino.

 

[CWBuff]

You have only just begun. Mind the slippery slope down to Roncesvalles if you take the left path after the summit.

I recommend that you be safe and don't take the slippery slope on the left. Take the gentle route to the right.

What she said. The best way to NOT mind the slippery slope is to take the path to the right.

That said Hector has to get to Orisson first.
One day on Camino at a time

 

[HBS60]

I made it to Orisson! Took me 6.5 hrs because we (me and lovely people I met on the way) took our time, rested frequently, but it was very hard and arduous. But I made it, so did they.

More later. I need a well-deserved rest.

Tonight I’ll sleep in the Pyrenees. Tomorrow I will cross them

 

[Maurice Frank]

Buen Camino Héctor. May your way bring you the insight and wisdom that serves you well

 

[jfgough]

Buen Camino y Buen suerte

 

[Adelina]

Que te vaya muy bien, Héctor!

 

[BarbaraW]

Lovely to see your joy in that photograph. Go well.

 

[jfgough]

Wishing you well on your way Héctor. I remember this wonderful first day from SJPP so clearly. Sure and steady and remember to look back once in a while

Yes! A lesson that I learned was to look back at where you just came from. More than once I noticed things that I had missed on my way forward

 

[jfgough]

I made it to Orisson! Took me 6.5 hrs because we (me and lovely people I met on the way) took our time, rested frequently, but it was very hard and arduous. But I made it, so did they.

More later. I need a well-deserved rest.

Tonight I’ll sleep in the Pyrenees. Tomorrow I will cross them

View attachment 175971

Enjoy every step that you take.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

I made it to Orisson!

What a wonderful picture of your first day! Your posture says it all! I'm sure a majority of your anxiety and fears are melting away.

 

[G_the_D]

because tomorrow I’m going for a walk…

Wonderfully put. Buen camino pilgrim.

 

[MichelleElynHogan]

Buen Camino, Sr. Héctor!

 

[bullingtonce]

Go for it, good man, but, as you imply in your email, stay more focused on the inside rather than what is on the outside, which is mostly noise. Chuck

 

[shawn67]

Best wishes for great night rest...I will watch for your post over the hill.

 

[Bruster]

Enjoy the journey, if allowed it will enhance your life. Buen Camino

 

[Marta46923]

Buen Camino, Héctor. Blessings on your journey.

 

[JacquelineA]

Buen Camino, Hector. Great picture!

 

[Cicada]

My name is Héctor. (I’ve been called many things)
I’m a 64 y/o retired Hispanic gentleman about to embark in something I never thought I could do.
But I’m here, in SJPDP, on my last night before starting my Camino early in the morning.
I don’t know fully why I’m doing this, but something has been calling me to do this, even though I’m not clear.
I attended the mass at the SJPDp church. The service was in French with Euskera /Basque songs, ending with a Pilgrim blessing. I didn’t understand any of it, just like there are so many things in life I still don’t understand. Perhaps the Camino will teach me something, provided I’m teachable.
Just as the initial segment to Orisson is steep, so is the learning curve. This isn’t a walk in the park, but a journey deep within as I attempt to heal and unburden myself from that which I don’t need.
I am grateful for the advice and support I’ve received in this forum.
I must now try to get some rest, because tomorrow I’m going for a walk…

Buen Camino have fun!

 

[Camo]

I made it to Orisson! Took me 6.5 hrs because we (me and lovely people I met on the way) took our time, rested frequently, but it was very hard and arduous. But I made it, so did they.

This is a good sign that you are "pacing yourself" well and have done the proper planning. Google says the "normal walker" (whatever that might mean?) takes 2 hours 23 minutes so you are at 37% of "average" which sounds to me to be about right for age 64.

All the best for day 2 and remember to take a look to the left in 3.8 km for that reassuring hand of the Virgin of Orisson

 

[CWBuff]

Well done Faithful Pilgrim!!!
Tomorrow even harder climb so pace yourself accordingly.
Things to look for
The Virgin of Orisson (see above post) - Hopefully the weather is favorable and you can spot her with no issues
The famous food truck - take a break, grab a bite to eat replenish your fluids and don't forget your sello.
Croix de Thibault- you will veer off the road and into more of a dirt pass... Espanya is not far behind.
Fountain de Roland- replenish your water and say goodbye to France.
Col Lepoder- take a first glimpse of Roncesvalles, take a break before your descend and DO NOT FORGET TO GO TO THE RIGHT!!!
Buen Camino

 

[trecile]

Well done Faithful Pilgrim!!!
Tomorrow even harder climb so pace yourself accordingly.

In my experience, the 8 km (5 miles) to Orisson was the steepest of this stage. Yes, there will be quite a bit more uphill after Orisson, but not as steep.

 

[HBS60]

Arrived safely in Roncesvalles, but I’m totally exhausted. It WAS definitely an ordeal.
I’m too exhausted to post, more later.

 

[trecile]

Arrived safely in Roncesvalles, but I’m totally exhausted. It WAS definitely an ordeal.
I’m too exhausted to post, more later.

I read that there's quite a heat wave going on right now. How did that affect you?

 

[HBS60]

I read that there's quite a heat wave going on right now. How did that affect you?

That was yesterday, on my way to Orisson. Today was much cooler which helped but it really kicked my butt.

 

[HBS60]

Pilgrims In The Mist…

(copied and pasted from my FB entry minus my pics)

A very intense day leaving the Orisson Refuge, continuing the climb up the Pyrenees, bound for the Monastery that runs an Albergue in Roncesvalles, Spain. It was a foggy day all day, the temperature was much cooler than yesterday, but the climbs were still very hard. It was magical to see herds of goats, sheep, horses and cows roaming freely, although it was unnerving at times since I’m not familiar with farm animals.

The fog gave everything an ethereal quality, and it was magical to see pilgrims way up in the distance, climbing up a slope that I knew I must also climb. I was glad to encounter landmarks that I knew about, like the Virgin of Orisson, the food truck, Roland’s Fountain, and the yellow Roncevaux sign which leads you off the main road.

I was not prepared for how treacherous the rocky terrain is, but I was grateful for those trekking poles.
Entering Spain was a great moment, and a passerby pilgrim took a picture of me by the Navarra stone marker (difficult to read).

The walking continued endlessly, until I finally reached the highest point of this route, the Col de Leopoder (I have to look up the elevation).

From that point, I had the choice to go left, which is a shorter but much more steeper (and dangerous road), or to the right, which is longer but easier. It was NOT easy. More rocky terrain, walking in close proximity to cows and a bull that was placidly resting facing the other direction, but the fog got worse, it got very windy and I couldn’t see the markers. Just when I’m starting to panic, I heard a French voice. A young man was a few yards away, he spoke some English led me through the rest of the way. I was exhausted, and was having more and more difficulty navigating treacherous terrain, my legs were getting weaker, but he patiently waited for me when I struggled to catch up.

Eventually, we made it. I was almost crawling from exhaustion, but a gentle hospitalero gave me a glass of water and led me to a bench.

I checked in, took a shower, then went to the Pilgrim Dinner, then the Mass with the Pilgrim blessing.
I’m now on bed, tired but at least I know I won’t have to climb mountains tomorrow…

…it’s going to rain

 

[CalPilgrim]

You’ve made it through maybe the hardest part of the Camino Frances—congratulations! The descent into Zubiri can be slippery, and you’ll need to watch your step, especially if it’s wet.

If you’re concerned about missing markers, you might try the interactive map on the Camino Ninja app, which shows where you are relative to the Camino. It can be reassuring if you haven’t seen a marker for a while. I think Wise Pilgrim has that feature too.

Buen Camino!

 

[Camo]

you might try the interactive map on the Camino Ninja app

Yes indeed but he does not report much "getting lost" so looks like he IS using a reliable app or whatever but has not mentioned it to date.

I for one would be interested to know which one Hector if you might like to reveal to those following your progress.

And you gave your time for day 1 so can you also reveal how long for day 2?

 

[CWBuff]

Well..I always say that before the descent into Zubiri one must ascent the Alto Ebro so,sorry, still some climbing to do.
But you are moving forward and most of us struggled those first few days so you are good and it's all good!
Buen Camino

 

[trecile]

If you’re concerned about missing markers, you might try the interactive map on the Camino Ninja app, which shows where you are relative to the Camino. It can be reassuring if you haven’t seen a marker for a while. I think Wise Pilgrim has that feature too.

Yes, Wise Pilgrim, Buen Camino, and the Gronze Map app all show your exact location on (or off!) the Camino.

 

[mspath]

Good to read that you are now at the monastery.

Check out this earlier thread re
the descent into Zubiri for relevant posts concerning your next day of walking.

West of Zubiri the terrain and
camino will be easier as you approach Pamplona.

 

[Cicada]

Hard to get lost on the Camino Frances in August just follow the other pilgrims!

 

[HBS60]

Arrived just now at Zubiri exhausted after a most grueling day. I’ll post more later if I’m up for it

 

[Kirkie]

Arrived just now at Zubiri exhausted after a most grueling day. I’ll post more later if I’m up for it

If you do happen to look up at the right moment, and see the church of San Esteban in Zabaldika de Arriba... go on! It won't hurt...say hello to whoever is on duty at the church, and imagine the zillions who have traced the path before you...
Chico, as I guess you are somewhat younger than I am, you have done so well. Take your time and you will reach your goal...

 

[HBS60]

Roncesvalles to Zubiri 13.3 miles 21.4 Km

(Copied from my FB post)

It was supposed to be an easier day but we were expecting rain. Thankfully the rain never materialized, I was surprised that despite my rough day yesterday, I was feeling energetic and had a brisk pace when I started walking. It was a gorgeous day, and I enjoyed watching these little colorful Basque towns. There were flowers everywhere, making things cheerful and beautiful. I enjoyed my first cafe stop at the entrance to Burguete, where I had my coffee and croissant surrounded by fellow pilgrims I’ve already met. By the time I got to Espinal, I stopped at another cafe, this time I had orange cake and freshly squeezed OJ.

I could get used to this. Still, no signs of rain. The blue skies, the lush landscape, and the colorful Basque houses that adorned with bright flowers was a visual banquet. The day started to get warmer, and there were a few hills that I wasn’t happy about but I was OK with. I kept meeting Pilgrims, some I’ve already met but some new ones, from various nationalities.

The high point of my day was reaching the river crossing at Biskarreta, because it is over several large blocks, and I’ve always been terrified of that very part, as my balance is not the best. Thanks to the encouragement of other pilgrims, I did it!

The day took a turn for the worse when I reached Linzoain. I was running out of water but luckily I found a potable water fountain.Then I had to climb up a steep concrete street, with heat radiating everywhere, then into the forest, more hills, it seemed endless as I’ve been told that the road to Zubiri had some hills but a lot of it was downhill, but there seemed to be one uphill after another. I was worried about running out of water, even as I was trying to ration it. At a road crossing, I spotted a food truck. The lady spotted me and told me they she was closing, but she sold me a Coke snd a bottle of water. I gulped the Coke and filled my water bottle and drank the rest.

This energized me, and I was able to resume a reasonably brisk walk, thanks to the sugar and caffeine, but I was tired. About that time I started hearing thunder rumbling in the distance, but the skies around me were fairly clear. I was hoping to finish my walk before any rain, but the terrain ahead was a veritable obstacle course due to the rocky terrain and curious geological formations that have been nicknamed “dragon’s teeth”. It took me probably an hour to negotiate the treacherous terrain. Further along, there were rocks that can get very slippery with rain. By that time, I was alone, but at least I remembered some pointers my French savior from yesterday had told me. Even though I thought I was alone, eventually other Pilgrims went by. The rain never materialized.

I finally made it to Zubiri. I wasn’t in such horrible shape as yesterday, but I was a messy sight to see.
I checked in at my Albergue, where some Pilgrims I’ve already met were staying, and I got a cheer and a hug when I made it.

Hot showers are so therapeutic! Then I had the Pilgrim dinner,where I met more lovely people, then needed to arrange for lodging for tomorrow, as well as for luggage transport. Had a nice chat with a very friendly Spanish man that was my bunkmate in Roncesvalles, snd now I’m going to bed.

The rain finally came tonight…

Tomorrow, Pamplona. 20.4 Km of mostly flat terrain. Or so they say…

I’ll attach the FB link for pics and videos when it finishes uploading.

 

[trecile]

I was surprised that despite my rough day yesterday, I was feeling energetic and had a brisk pace when I started walking.

It is amazing how quickly the body can recuperate! And I'm glad that the rain did not come to pass.

Tomorrow, Pamplona. 20.4 Km of mostly flat terrain. Or so they say

There is a big hill with little or no shade, BUT there is an alternate mostly shady route along the river that I really enjoyed last year.

Here's the details from Wise Pilgrim:

SPLIT: Alternate Route via Huarte or follow the camino​

At the picnic area adjacent to the road you can choose your own adventure. The majority of walkers continue onward and upward. Optionally you can follow the river, keeping it on your right, on an alternate route into Huarte (albergue municipal, all services) and on to Pamplona (bypassing Trinidad de Arre, Villava, and Burlada). This route is marginally longer than the other, but does bypass the very obvious ascent from here.

You can see the route as the dotted line after Zabaldika on Gronze.



I don't see the alternate on the Wise Pilgrim map, but it's on the Buen Camino app as a green line. There were yellow arrows to follow too.

 

[CWBuff]

This is so freaking reminiscent
The upward of that asend took me by surprise as well; again I don't know why everyone is talking about the descend and practically no one mentions it otherwise
And I DID run out of water but thankfully just as I entered Zubiri...

Hector - I think you might have just learned that it does not pay to worry about some what-ifs that may not materialize. Yes those rocks can be quite slippery when it rains.... but it didn't rain for you so never mind the what-ifs and concentrate on immediate task at hand. You'll be fine

 

[MelMc]

Pilgrims In The Mist…

(copied and pasted from my FB entry minus my pics)

A very intense day leaving the Orisson Refuge, continuing the climb up the Pyrenees, bound for the Monastery that runs an Albergue in Roncesvalles, Spain. It was a foggy day all day, the temperature was much cooler than yesterday, but the climbs were still very hard. It was magical to see herds of goats, sheep, horses and cows roaming freely, although it was unnerving at times since I’m not familiar with farm animals.

The fog gave everything an ethereal quality, and it was magical to see pilgrims way up in the distance, climbing up a slope that I knew I must also climb. I was glad to encounter landmarks that I knew about, like the Virgin of Orisson, the food truck, Roland’s Fountain, and the yellow Roncevaux sign which leads you off the main road.

I was not prepared for how treacherous the rocky terrain is, but I was grateful for those trekking poles.
Entering Spain was a great moment, and a passerby pilgrim took a picture of me by the Navarra stone marker (difficult to read).

The walking continued endlessly, until I finally reached the highest point of this route, the Col de Leopoder (I have to look up the elevation).

From that point, I had the choice to go left, which is a shorter but much more steeper (and dangerous road), or to the right, which is longer but easier. It was NOT easy. More rocky terrain, walking in close proximity to cows and a bull that was placidly resting facing the other direction, but the fog got worse, it got very windy and I couldn’t see the markers. Just when I’m starting to panic, I heard a French voice. A young man was a few yards away, he spoke some English led me through the rest of the way. I was exhausted, and was having more and more difficulty navigating treacherous terrain, my legs were getting weaker, but he patiently waited for me when I struggled to catch up.

Eventually, we made it. I was almost crawling from exhaustion, but a gentle hospitalero gave me a glass of water and led me to a bench.

I checked in, took a shower, then went to the Pilgrim Dinner, then the Mass with the Pilgrim blessing.
I’m now on bed, tired but at least I know I won’t have to climb mountains tomorrow…

…it’s going to rain

 

[MelMc]

Well done, you're doing well

 

[HBS60]

Zubiri to Pamplona

Just getting settled into my Hostel in Pamplona, after walking 13 miles (20.9 Km).

The morning was more challenging than expected, not just because of the rain, but, contrary to what I have been told and read, there were lots of uphill stretches with rocky terrain, and the rain added the increased risk of slipping. On the plus side, the temperature was pleasantly cool down that helped. I did have to put my poncho but my legs were still wet. Eventually the rain let up and I took off the poncho, but I didn’t feel like taking off the backpack just to put the poncho back in, but a passerby most gently did that favor for me.

Curiously, I passed by several towns but everything was closed. I think the reason is that some towns designate a “rest day”, when I asked, they told me about a town down the road which had open businesses. It was frustrating because I really needed to use the bathroom and I wasn’t quite ready to hide behind bushes (I know the time will come eventually but I wasn’t prepared for that particular rite of passage just yet). Finally I found the town that I was told about.

When I got there, (Zuriarin), st the entrance was a bar cafe and just about everybody I had met the last few days was there, even some folks I hadn’t seen in days. So it is at the Camino, pilgrims wind up leapfrogging over the days and towns. It was a joyous occasion to have lunch together.

The highlight of the day so far was that the bar owners recognized me from my FB posts and they know I play piano. They showed me a selfie I just had taken at the Santiago road sign, it was cool but humbling to be recognized. Of course I got a selfie with Maria José and Antonio (please forgive me if I don’t remember the names correctly),

I also got to try out an accordion, but bring that a pianist is so different, it didn’t go well but it was fun to try,

It was time to keep moving, so as the afternoon went by, I kept trying to negotiate upwards and downwards slopes with rocky, steep, and wet terrain. There was a man in the middle of the woods with an ice cooler selling water, sodas, and fruit. Very colorful person, I bought from him an apple.

There were several more challenging stretches, and I kept company to another pilgrim, so that helped keep my mind off the hardship. There was a very nice, cool breeze, we finally found level ground and made it to the Pamplona suburbs of Villava and Burlada. The grueling walk had become a pleasant stroll, which made the end of this day unlike the previous two, which ended badly. The icing on the cake was when the cutest boy, about age 8-9, accosted us on the street and asks us point blank; “Sois Peregrinos?” And when we answered “yes” he gave us the most adorable “Buen Camino!” which he seemed very eager to do, an it was most appreciated.

Finally we made it to Pamplona, and it took me a little while to find the hostel, but I finally showered and I’m writing this before getting something to eat.

I need to decide where I’m going tomorrow. I have made reservations until today since I didn’t know what to expect. I thought about asking for an extra night because I need a rest day, but it seems like a very busy weekend coming up and the Hospitalero told me everything is full. So maybe I’ll try a short walk tomorrow, so I can catch up with so much. All this walking feels like a full time job. But at least from now on, I have more flexibility and that should help

Thanks for all the support I’ve got here and other forums, it means a lot to me!

Here’s the FB post for pics and videos!

Hector Barreto

Zubiri to Pamplona Just getting settled into my Hostel in Pamplona, after walking 13 miles (20.9 Km). The morning was more challenging than expected, not just because of the rain, but, contrary to...

www.facebook.com

 

[kiwi-couple]

Thank you for taking the time to write another wonderful report, for sharing your pilgrimage with us. For each and every day I wish you buen camino.

 

[Anhalter]

When you pass Uterga tomorrow, i recommend stopping in the albergue on the left for a "Lomo y Pimientos" Bocadillo. Don't know exactly, it is by itself not very special, but i always thoroughly enjoyed it.

 

[VNwalking]

Just noticed this thread now. Wonderful - you're in Pamplona already. Cizur, Zariquiegui, Uterga, Muruzábal...you have options if you want a shorter day (El Jardin in Muruzábal was a really lovely place to stay, and I even saw a Hoopoe in the garden. !)
You could almost have a rest day if you wanted to stay in town and explore for a while, and then continue on to Cizur or Zariquiegui later. Depending on heat, of course.

A heartfelt buen Camino to you, Peregrino.
and when crossing the Alto del Perdon, poco a poco on the way up and mind those stones when going down. And as many folks have said, don't forget to look back! You've come from farther away than you can see already.

 

[HBS60]

Zubiri to Pamplona

Just getting settled into my Hostel in Pamplona, after walking 13 miles (20.9 Km).

The morning was more challenging than expected, not just because of the rain, but, contrary to what I have been told and read, there were lots of uphill stretches with rocky terrain, and the rain added the increased risk of slipping. On the plus side, the temperature was pleasantly cool down that helped. I did have to put my poncho but my legs were still wet. Eventually the rain let up and I took off the poncho, but I didn’t feel like taking off the backpack just to put the poncho back in, but a passerby most gently did that favor for me.

Curiously, I passed by several towns but everything was closed. I think the reason is that some towns designate a “rest day”, when I asked, they told me about a town down the road which had open businesses. It was frustrating because I really needed to use the bathroom and I wasn’t quite ready to hide behind bushes (I know the time will come eventually but I wasn’t prepared for that particular rite of passage just yet). Finally I found the town that I was told about.

When I got there, (Zuriarin), st the entrance was a bar cafe and just about everybody I had met the last few days was there, even some folks I hadn’t seen in days. So it is at the Camino, pilgrims wind up leapfrogging over the days and towns. It was a joyous occasion to have lunch together.

The highlight of the day so far was that the bar owners recognized me from my FB posts and they know I play piano. They showed me a selfie I just had taken at the Santiago road sign, it was cool but humbling to be recognized. Of course I got a selfie with Maria José and Antonio (please forgive me if I don’t remember the names correctly),

I also got to try out an accordion, but bring that a pianist is so different, it didn’t go well but it was fun to try,

It was time to keep moving, so as the afternoon went by, I kept trying to negotiate upwards and downwards slopes with rocky, steep, and wet terrain. There was a man in the middle of the woods with an ice cooler selling water, sodas, and fruit. Very colorful person, I bought from him an apple.

There were several more challenging stretches, and I kept company to another pilgrim, so that helped keep my mind off the hardship. There was a very nice, cool breeze, we finally found level ground and made it to the Pamplona suburbs of Villava and Burlada. The grueling walk had become a pleasant stroll, which made the end of this day unlike the previous two, which ended badly. The icing on the cake was when the cutest boy, about age 8-9, accosted us on the street and asks us point blank; “Sois Peregrinos?” And when we answered “yes” he gave us the most adorable “Buen Camino!” which he seemed very eager to do, an it was most appreciated.

Finally we made it to Pamplona, and it took me a little while to find the hostel, but I finally showered and I’m writing this before getting something to eat.

I need to decide where I’m going tomorrow. I have made reservations until today since I didn’t know what to expect. I thought about asking for an extra night because I need a rest day, but it seems like a very busy weekend coming up and the Hospitalero told me everything is full. So maybe I’ll try a short walk tomorrow, so I can catch up with so much. All this walking feels like a full time job. But at least from now on, I have more flexibility and that should help

Thanks for all the support I’ve got here and other forums, it means a lot to me!

Here’s the FB post for pics and videos!

Hector Barreto

Zubiri to Pamplona Just getting settled into my Hostel in Pamplona, after walking 13 miles (20.9 Km). The morning was more challenging than expected, not just because of the rain, but, contrary to...

www.facebook.com

I forgot to make the FB public. I just made it public so it should be visible.

 

[HBS60]

Argh…
I was planning to have a short walk today, to Zizur Mayor and spend the day at a nice hotel I found at a good price, so I booked through booking.com. Everything seemed fine, but after midnight I got up to use the BR and checked my email, and discovered that I had made the reservation for the same day (yesterday August 14) rather than today, (Pilgrim Fatigue) so of course I’m a no show and it was a non-refundable reservation. I’ve tried to contact the property, who told me to contact booking.com, which took several tries. They will try to send them an email trying to get a refund and directed me to contact them to alert them of their email, but the lady at the property was cranky (understandable since it’s 2 AM), but essentially there was nothing I could do. I get that rules are rules and I’m ok with losing the money, but now I’ve been scrambling to figure out where to stay. I tried looking for places within a similar distance, but places seemed booked up. I know I could try showing up to a albergue but I have to know in advance where to send my cpap machine. I figured I might as well walk all the way to Puente La Reina, and I found a place at there, but that means another long day of walking instead of a short day with time to rest. I’m disappointed that the lady showed no effort or desire to help, but I know I can’t expect kindness all the time.
So my day has already started on a sour mood, on the plus side, it seems that the weather will be nice and I’ll still stay in touch with my friends.
But I’m grumbling…
Sorry about the rant, but I’ve now been awake since 2 AM.

 

[GettingThere]

Argh…
I was planning to have a short walk today, to Zizur Mayor and spend the day at a nice hotel I found at a good price, so I booked through booking.com. Everything seemed fine, but after midnight I got up to use the BR and checked my email, and discovered that I had made the reservation for the same day (yesterday August 14) rather than today, (Pilgrim Fatigue) so of course I’m a no show and it was a non-refundable reservation. I’ve tried to contact the property, who told me to contact booking.com, which took several tries. They will try to send them an email trying to get a refund and directed me to contact them to alert them of their email, but the lady at the property was cranky (understandable since it’s 2 AM), but essentially there was nothing I could do. I get that rules are rules and I’m ok with losing the money, but now I’ve been scrambling to figure out where to stay. I tried looking for places within a similar distance, but places seemed booked up. I know I could try showing up to a albergue but I have to know in advance where to send my cpap machine. I figured I might as well walk all the way to Puente La Reina, and I found a place at there, but that means another long day of walking instead of a short day with time to rest. I’m disappointed that the lady showed no effort or desire to help, but I know I can’t expect kindness all the time.
So my day has already started on a sour mood, on the plus side, it seems that the weather will be nice and I’ll still stay in touch with my friends.
But I’m grumbling…
Sorry about the rant, but I’ve now been awake since 2 AM.

Héctor, this kind of thing can be really upsetting, I know. If you feel you need a shorter day or a rest, I would encourage you to try to do that. Booking.com seems to be showing 3 places with availability for the 15th in Cizur Mayor. Alternatively could you stay another night in Pamplona and have a proper rest? There are other places between there and Puente La Reina but maybe not on Booking.com, so you'd need to contact them direct (contact details on gronze.com). Whatever you decide, take it slow and steady, rest when you need it, and buen camino!

 

[OTH86]

No apologies necessary, @HBS60 !! You're doing great! Maybe instead of booking dot com, you could ask a hospitalero or a fellow peregrino to help you call or whatsapp ahead for a rez for the night. Enjoying your attitude!! Buen Camino!

 

[JillGat]

It's more complicated for hotel/hostel/private albergues to help you if you got your reservation through Booking.com. Also Booking.com often says there are no rooms available when there actually are. Because they have to pay a fee to Booking.com for the reservations they get through them, many properties only set aside some of their rooms for those reservations. Best to call and/or email the properties yourself. I don't know if you have an app that lists accommodations, but you can find them listed in Gronze.com with reviews, too.

 

[mustang2actual]

I made it to Orisson! Took me 6.5 hrs because we (me and lovely people I met on the way) took our time, rested frequently, but it was very hard and arduous. But I made it, so did they.

More later. I need a well-deserved rest.

Tonight I’ll sleep in the Pyrenees. Tomorrow I will cross them

View attachment 175971

Fantastic accomplishment!

 

[donalomahony]

Thanks for taking the time to update us all!

 

[SDJunkMan]

Thanks for the updates Hector! I'm starting from SJPP next Thursday and am enjoying the preview of my walk.

 

[HBS60]

I decided to go all the Way to Puente La Rrina, just arrived. I will stay here an extra day to rest.
Despite my foul mood this morning, most of the walk was very enjoyable, the climbs didn’t bother me as much. The hard part was the descent from Slyo Del Perdón, that really set me back. It it was so satisfying to actually be at this well-known place
I’ll attach a pic of me at the Camino, Thanks!

 

[HBS60]

Text copied from my FB post today
Pamplona to Puente La Reina, officially 14.86 miles or 23.9 Km.

Note: I’m trying to limit the number of videos because they seem to make the post difficult to upload.

Also written while nodding off

I wasn’t planning to do this stretch today as I wanted to take a rest day. Unfortunately my Hostel didn’t have availability for a second night. I thought about trying a very short distance but I messed up the dates so I ended up being a no show, and the hotel I had reserved was unwilling to work with me, so I decided to just walk the recommended distance to Puente La Reina.

As I walk out of the city, I was enjoying the breathtaking sights of distant mountains, sunflower fields, old structures, and my foul mood was soon forgotten. I was really enjoying the walk, the path was fairly flat and smooth.

As I got closer to the mountains, the windmills got bigger and tantalizingly closer, the path became harder and steeper, but finally I made it, greeted by other pilgrims I’ve met, it was a breathtaking sight and a memorable experience. It was also windy and cold, and it went downhill from there. Literally.

The descent from the windmills on the other side is through way I can only be described as a river of rocks, loose rocks to constitute a falling hazard. It took me at least an hour to reach smoother ground.

I was now walking very comfortably, and since at the moment I was completely alone, watching the seeping vistas, I started singing even though I’m definitely not a singer. But it was very inspiring.

I then walk into the next town and they were having this loud Mexican fiesta, which I found weird because they were all dressed in traditional Basque colors of red and white. I walked into a very crowded and nonissue bar and asked for…a coke.

The afternoon wore on, I kept walking and I was fine with it even though tired. I felt that I’m reaching a breakthrough point.

The afternoon was heating up, my feet were killing me , but I was fine with the heat and even the pain. It seems that so far, my biggest struggle is with rocky, difficult terrain.

I eventually reached Puente La Reina, grateful for making it another day.

I reserved an extra night so tomorrow is a rest day.

I need it.
I earned it

Link to FB post for pics and videos:

Hector Barreto

Pamplona to Puente La Reina, officially 14.86 miles or 23.9 Km. Note: I’m trying to limit the number of videos because they seem to make the post difficult to upload. Also written while nodding off...

www.facebook.com

 

[Rick of Rick and Peg]

I messed up the dates so I ended up being a no show,

A tip on dates: note that the Spanish calendar has weeks going from Monday to Sunday. If you are used to a Sunday to Saturday week you could be a day off if you reserve visually instead from the actual date shown in the box.

Example: I made a Barcelona to Pamplona train reservation for a Tuesday (or so I thought; it was the third day of the week as shown on the calendar). I found out at home afterwards that I really made it for Wednesday. I read that it was difficult to make a change so I just extended our lodging reservation by a day.

 

[Kirkie]

Text copied from my FB post today
Pamplona to Puente La Reina, officially 14.86 miles or 23.9 Km.

Note: I’m trying to limit the number of videos because they seem to make the post difficult to upload.

Also written while nodding off

I wasn’t planning to do this stretch today as I wanted to take a rest day. Unfortunately my Hostel didn’t have availability for a second night. I thought about trying a very short distance but I messed up the dates so I ended up being a no show, and the hotel I had reserved was unwilling to work with me, so I decided to just walk the recommended distance to Puente La Reina.

As I walk out of the city, I was enjoying the breathtaking sights of distant mountains, sunflower fields, old structures, and my foul mood was soon forgotten. I was really enjoying the walk, the path was fairly flat and smooth.

As I got closer to the mountains, the windmills got bigger and tantalizingly closer, the path became harder and steeper, but finally I made it, greeted by other pilgrims I’ve met, it was a breathtaking sight and a memorable experience. It was also windy and cold, and it went downhill from there. Literally.

The descent from the windmills on the other side is through way I can only be described as a river of rocks, loose rocks to constitute a falling hazard. It took me at least an hour to reach smoother ground.

I was now walking very comfortably, and since at the moment I was completely alone, watching the seeping vistas, I started singing even though I’m definitely not a singer. But it was very inspiring.

I then walk into the next town and they were having this loud Mexican fiesta, which I found weird because they were all dressed in traditional Basque colors of red and white. I walked into a very crowded and nonissue bar and asked for…a coke.

The afternoon wore on, I kept walking and I was fine with it even though tired. I felt that I’m reaching a breakthrough point.

The afternoon was heating up, my feet were killing me , but I was fine with the heat and even the pain. It seems that so far, my biggest struggle is with rocky, difficult terrain.

I eventually reached Puente La Reina, grateful for making it another day.

I reserved an extra night so tomorrow is a rest day.

I need it.
I earned it

Link to FB post for pics and videos:

Hector Barreto

Pamplona to Puente La Reina, officially 14.86 miles or 23.9 Km. Note: I’m trying to limit the number of videos because they seem to make the post difficult to upload. Also written while nodding off...

www.facebook.com

Hector, enjoy your rest day. There is a bit of a slope up when you leave Puente La Reina the day after tomorrow. I am sure you have planned out your camino. Maybe some spokes will buckle - one already did, when you had to face having a wrong reservation date!
Pilgrim, you have come so far. Let it unfold.

 

[HBS60]

Copied from my FB page
I decided to take a day off so I can rest, process, reflect, and recalibrate how I walk the Camino. I also need to catch up on mundane things like emails, pay bills, and such. I’m sad that people I’ve met will go on, but as has already happened many times, people that have left me behind reappear, which is always a joyous occasion. So I wish the wonderful people I’ve met so far a Buen Camino, I have been blessed by having the oppoopportunity to meet you, however briefly. I already know that I’ll have the opportunity to meet even more people, in what will hopefully be a mutually enriching experience. So, I’m enjoying my Cafe Con Leche (OMG it’s so good) as I try to let these experiences sink in. It’s not about rushing to the next town, but about rethinking how I live life.

Link to my FB page: https://www.facebook.com/share/p/c121MUsKy6UgW8wJ/?mibextid=WC7FNe

 

[Camo]

The morning was more challenging than expected, not just because of the rain, but, contrary to what I have been told and read, there were lots of uphill stretches with rocky terrain,

Hector (my nickname at school) you have not told us what info (eg guides) you have read but I bought the Brierley Guide from this forum to assist my understanding of the Camino Frances and if you go to page 60 you will see a graph that from a cursory glance says yippee it's all downhill, BUT above the graph it says Total Ascent 360 m which is quite a climb as you found out.

The explanation is "undulations" or "up hill down dale" but can't be seen at the small scale of the graph so be careful to read the "fine print".

 

[CWBuff]

Keep on going Amigo. I believe you are getting your stride right on
Buen Camino

 

[HBS60]

From my FB page…

Pilgrim musings on a rest day…

I’m glad I took the day off. It seems that this walking thing is like a rat race, with the mad scramble to pack and leave before the Albergue kicks us out., then spending hours getting to the next place. For a slower walker like me, that means I get to my next place tired with little time to do anything other than shower, eat, and get ready for the next day, then there’s bedtime.

Today, I took care of things like washing my clothes and tending them on the line. I needed to go to the post office so I can mail to Santiago a package of things I don’t really need but weigh me down. Since I was in town, I took a stroll in the “Casco Viejo” (“Old Core”), looking around, enjoying the sights, when I ran into a very nice Polish guy walking with his young daughter I met during the stretch from Roncesvalles to Zubiri. That day, he walked with me for a while, got to know each other a little bit, but he moved on, so I figured that was it. So, today, as I walked around the Casco Viejo,we saw each other , we both beamed smiles of recognition. It occurs to me that the joy of a reencounter cannot happen if there’s no separation. He was leaving that day, I will leave tomorrow.

I don’t know if, when, or when I will see him or any of the people I’ve met will cross paths, so I’m trying to learn to enjoy and value the human connection when it happens. This is something difficult for a person like me who has abandonment issues. Being that we are headed in the same direction, we are not far from each other, and knowing that suffices. I know that new people will also come, as they already have. Just this morning I had a very heartfelt conversation with another pilgrim, feeling safe enough to share with her things that normally I keep private.

I’m now sitting at a wonderful shady terrace, all by myself. There is a very cool breeze that is refreshing and lulling me to sleep. It’s all part of the experience of being alive…

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[HBS60]

Question:
How hard or easy is it to find an albergue without reservations? At least in these next few stages (from Puente La Reina).
I just sent to Ivar a package with excess things I won’t need, so if I put my cPAP machine back in, the weight might not be so unmanageable. That way I avoid having to decide in advance where I will be that night, so I won’t have to worry about sending it to a town too far than what I want to walk. In other words, I just want to walk until I decide to stop, not having to keep walking just because my luggage is 10 km away.
I’m currently in Puente La Reina, and I can try to make it to Estella (or even further), or I could decide to stay wherever I feel like stopping. I think I might combine long days with short days depending on how I feel. At least I have a few days of heavy walking under my belt, and I carried my cPAP over the Pyrenees, so I hope it should be easier than that.
I don’t think the Camino is crowded at this time, but I don’t know from previous experience.

So, how’s the crowding situation seems to be?

 

[Peterexpatkiwi]

Hector, probably the best people to answer that are the people that are with you on the trail. Or drop into the local municipale Albergue and ask what's the feedback from further up the road

 

[CWBuff]

Hypothetical musing - with all this writing going on between 2 sites (although I'm sure copy-n-paste helps), I wonder when does Hector has time to walk?

@HBS60 : Hector -
re: It seems that this walking thing is like a rat race, with the mad scramble to pack and leave before the Albergue kicks us out., then spending hours getting to the next place.

Get into a habit of organizing your pack the previous evening right before you go to sleep. You still may have to through couple of things into it in the morning (ah yes there is your CPAP machine) .... but if you DO learn to get organized the night before it will make the morning exit much smoother. Obviously you're not there yet, but hopefully it will start coming together next week.
As to spending hours getting from A to B - welcome to the World of Travel and especially Camino! On the brighter side - thats all you got to do on a given day. You'll get used to it!

For a slower walker like me, that means I get to my next place tired with little time to do anything other than shower, eat, and get ready for the next day, then there’s bedtime.

Hmmm.... I'll venture to say that it is quite the same routine for most of us. Yes there are people who go out and do some site seeing and exploring and what-have-you but IMHO for the majority of us- it's get into albergue, take a shower, do laundry, organize\re-organize the backpack, relax a bit before meal (if possible), eat, relax after (do your social media reports, muse, ponder, et al) and bye-bye nighty night

As to How hard or easy is it to find an albergue without reservations - well... its a loaded question here with members split on the opinion, so its hard to be precise and predict. I can tell you that there is "no issue once-so-ever" and with Murphy's Luck everything from A to B is booked "today" and you'll curse me while keep on walking. (so yeah the fact that i did it with no problems in 20XX means absolutely NADA! Camino is a daily occurence and it is YOUR daily occurrence, no getting around it)...
If anything I think you can make Estrella - only 22 km... perhaps start early (I don't know what has been your typical ToD)... you should be able to make it in 6-7 hours...

I do believe you are still not done finding your stride. It will get easier once you do that so you'll be able to better judge how you walk. In any case you can always try your luck walking into a given town\village and roam around looking for bed. Perhaps you can utilize any given Camino App (I hope you have at least one on your phone) and WhatsApp and once you start getting tired - just start calling the places in the closest point. So I guess in a way, its still a "reservation" but more on-a-fly. Hope it makes sense and helps

Love your reports! As I and many others told you before - don't fret too much; it WILL work out! Trust us!

Good luck and Buen Camino

 

[Anhalter]

From my memory, there are plenty of beds in the coming 200km or so, maybe one little tricky part from Villafranca Montes the Oca to San Juan. Should not be a problem at all unless you arrive super late in the evening, but even then you can usually just take a taxi to the next place. so no worry about hurrying.

(disclaimer: of course this can not be true for every day, because bubbles are a thing, but if it feels not crowded to you now, it likely will not be crowded for the forseeable future)

 

[HBS60]

I do believe you are still not done finding your stride. It will get easier once you do that so you'll be able to better judge how you walk.

Yes, it’s work in progress. What I’m finding is that the biggest challenges for me are first and foremost negotiating treacherous, rocky terrain, also up/down hill, but the terrain thing seems the worst. I can’t comprehend how I see people just breeze by seemingly effortlessly while I’m struggling with staying balanced, relying on my poles for dear life, to just advance a couple feet. Leaving Pamplona, going past Cizur and Zizur, on the way to Alto del Perdón was a piece of cake, until I got closer to the windmills. It was a bit of a struggle to climb the very last portion before the windmills but I was fine with the effort, but navigating that rock river going down took me about an hour. I can deal well with the heat and the distances, but I don’t know what kind of terrain I’ll find. It seems that the Meseta will be much easier for me, but I’m not there yet.

 

[HBS60]

(ah yes there is your CPAP machine)

That is a total pain to pack and unpack each night, with the tubing, masks, cords, the machine itself. It can fit in my backpack but it’s bulky so I have to find a way to arrange everything so it fits. I imagine that by the time I get to Santiago I’ll be a pro at this…

 

[CWBuff]

What I’m finding is that the biggest challenges for me are first and foremost negotiating treacherous, rocky terrain, also up/down hill, but the terrain thing seems the worst. I can’t comprehend how I see people just breeze by seemingly effortlessly while I’m struggling with staying balanced, relying on my poles for dear life, to just advance a couple feet.

Don't comprehend! simple as that. The terrain on Frances is "crazy" to say the least. Don't know how other people do it, I guess some have "a gift" (and BTW on my recent TMB while I was justly taking my time I saw folks RUNNING down the slopes- - apparently there is a "running" way of doing that trek supposedly only 3-4 days!!!) but it matters not. Stay the course, absolutely use the poles for stability and balance, watch where your foot goes - just deal with it one step at-a-time. You sill have way-lots-of kms to go. Feet are more important than...say your CPAP machine... heck they are more important than food you eat!!!

, but navigating that rock river going down took me about an hour. I can deal well with the heat and the distances, but I don’t know what kind of terrain I’ll find.

See above. You'll have another really treacherous descend from Cruz de Ferro into Molinaseca and couple of others as well as asends - the jury of course can and will be out as to "how bad" a given one feels to folks; then again you don't "need to know" what kind of terrain you'll find - assume the worst at any given moment, Pray to The Lord that you will not be caught on one of the "worst" ones during some deluge and concentrate on your daily walk.

It seems that the Meseta will be much easier for me, but I’m not there yet.

AMEN! And speaking of - the Castrojeriz hill before you really get into the "flats" although I'll caution you that there are still enough "bumps" in the terrain. I'm telling you - you are doing fine! more than fine! One foot in front of the other - thats all....

 

[naplesdon]

Yes, one foot in front of the other, that is the mantra of the Camino. Some pilgrims have dubbed the hill after Castrojeriz, the mule killer. It is not fun to do first thing in the morning, so don't even think about attempting it from Hontanas or San Anton. As far a long and short days, there are many ways to handle this with out fretting over reservations. Get up and out of the albergue at an hour you are comfortable with and walk 4 to 6 hours, that should be about 15 to 20 km/day. Villatuerta is a great place to stop before Estella, Casa Magica is very chill and has long history of being a rest spot for pilgrims.

 

[trecile]

If you are using Gronze you can see that the first two albergues listed in Estella don't accept reservations. The municipal Albergue del Peregrinos has 78 beds, and the Albergue parroquial San Miguel has 32 beds. Plus there are quite a few other albergues and pensiones in town.

 

[SEB2]

Yes, it’s work in progress. What I’m finding is that the biggest challenges for me are first and foremost negotiating treacherous, rocky terrain, also up/down hill, but the terrain thing seems the worst. I can’t comprehend how I see people just breeze by seemingly effortlessly while I’m struggling with staying balanced, relying on my poles for dear life, to just advance a couple feet. Leaving Pamplona, going past Cizur and Zizur, on the way to Alto del Perdón was a piece of cake, until I got closer to the windmills. It was a bit of a struggle to climb the very last portion before the windmills but I was fine with the effort, but navigating that rock river going down took me about an hour. I can deal well with the heat and the distances, but I don’t know what kind of terrain I’ll find. It seems that the Meseta will be much easier for me, but I’m not there yet.

Taking your time on the decent from Alto de Perdon was wise. In 2015 I met a German peregrina who had fallen on that slope and had to be stretchered off. That was the end of her Camino as her leg injury required a long rest from walking.
When you get to Estella take time to watch the kingfishers flying down near Puento Nuevo and, if your legs can cope with the steps do go up to the wonderful San Pedro church although I have a vague recollection of a lift from/to the street below. Agora Hostel was a wonderful place to stay with extremely kind hospitaleras & they have availability on booking.com for tomorrow. Hosteria de Curtidores is by the river on the Camino just before you arrive in Estella. They have no spaces on booking.com but here is their contact email: contactar@hosteradecurtidores.com

Buen Camino Hector!

 

[Rick of Rick and Peg]

if your legs can cope with the steps do go up to the wonderful San Pedro church although I have a vague recollection of a lift from/to the street below.

Yes there is an elevator. A local brought us to it when he saw us staring at the steps. It is on the left a block further along. I dropped a pin at the location for you. You can see it in the background and it's ascensor sign in the foreground with Street View.

42°40'07.9"N 2°01'47.8"W

maps.app.goo.gl

Hector, I like the way you are doing your Camino and your thinking about it. I think you are going to have a good one.

 

[J Willhaus]

Question:
How hard or easy is it to find an albergue without reservations? At least in these next few stages (from Puente La Reina).
I just sent to Ivar a package with excess things I won’t need, so if I put my cPAP machine back in, the weight might not be so unmanageable. That way I avoid having to decide in advance where I will be that night, so I won’t have to worry about sending it to a town too far than what I want to walk. In other words, I just want to walk until I decide to stop, not having to keep walking just because my luggage is 10 km away.
I’m currently in Puente La Reina, and I can try to make it to Estella (or even further), or I could decide to stay wherever I feel like stopping. I think I might combine long days with short days depending on how I feel. At least I have a few days of heavy walking under my belt, and I carried my cPAP over the Pyrenees, so I hope it should be easier than that.
I don’t think the Camino is crowded at this time, but I don’t know from previous experience.

So, how’s the crowding situation seems to be?

I don't usually reserve and I usually don't ship a bag and I have a CPAP and have never been without a bed, but that "not knowing" is really uncomfortable for some people, so be true to yourself.

Walk as far as you like and then look for a place. I have an idea of where I might like to be, but usually stay at places that don't take reservations. These are usually simple, pilgrim-purposed places with bunkbeds. Not to everyone's taste. We try not to walk more than 10 miles a day on the CF. You'll arrive in time to see the town, do your laundry, maybe get a menu del dia...

 

[J Willhaus]

If you are using Gronze you can see that the first two albergues listed in Estella don't accept reservations. The municipal Albergue del Peregrinos has 78 beds, and the Albergue parroquial San Miguel has 32 beds. Plus there are quite a few other albergues and pensiones in town.

There is also the Anfas albergue in Estella which is nice and proceeds help people with disabilities, but I would break Puente la Reina to Estella into a shorter day. You don't have to stay in the traditional stage towns unless you want to.

 

[trecile]

There is also the Anfas albergue in Estella which is nice and proceeds help people with disabilities, but I would break Puente la Reina to Estella into a shorter day

I stayed at Anfas on my first Camino and really enjoyed it.

For a shorter day look at stopping in Villatuerta (18 km). La Casa Mágica there is a 5 star albergue.

After that I recommend the alternate route to Luquin (14km). Casa Tiago is a nice place to stay there.

 

[Dani7]

Navigating that rock river going down took me about an hour.

Same here. It seemed like a long time to get down while even older pilgrims (it seemed) passed me. Good job on how you are adapting to your Camino.

 

[Anhalter]

There is also the Anfas albergue in Estella

I stayed at Anfas on my first Camino and really enjoyed it.

At the time i stayed in Anfas i was still writing a diary. I noted down that it was my first night of good sleep on the camino. We were 3 pilgrims in that big room which was pleasantly cool in a pretty warm and pretty busy May 2019.

Regarding that treacherous slopes... its a combination of things i guess. Last time i walked down Alto de Perdon i was 39y old, playing beachvolleyball 3 times a week and walking with a 3,6kg backpack. Not to brag, but it really was not a big issue. But i can see that people with a different set of factors may have problems there, so takin the time to do it safely is a very smart choice.

Hector, i wish you a Buen Camino. Thanks for sharing it with us!

 

[Camino Chrissy]

After that I recommend the alternate route to Luquin (14km). Casa Tiago is a nice place to stay there.

I originally was disappointed to find the albergue in Monjardin full as it was a favorite with its terrace looking out over the landscape. It was suggested we cut over to Luquin and were pleasantly surprised. It was a new property in 2017 and my family had the whole place to ourselves.

 

[VNwalking]

For a slower walker like me, that means I get to my next place tired with little time to do anything other than shower, eat, and get ready for the next day, then there’s bedtime.

The Camino can be challenging but it's not a second job! Shorter stages may be worth checking out.

I just want to walk until I decide to stop, not having to keep walking just because my luggage is 10 km away.

I could decide to stay wherever I feel like stopping

Wise. That's the most balanced way to walk, and the best thing about carrying your stuff is that it allows that kind of flexibility. Not needing to override the body when it says 'stop' is such a blessing - and you can stop at 2PM if you want. It gives much more space in the day.

How hard or easy is it to find an albergue without reservations?

It depends. Municipals and paroquials often don't take bookings. I haven't walked a complete Camino Francés in 9 years, but the connecting pieces of it I've done since then have often surprised me. Albergues just sort of or just after a guide-book stage ending pueblo can be half empty, even when the nearby town is chockablock. Especially if they are simple without any flash modern conveniences.

You don't have to stay in the traditional stage towns unless you want to.

This.
It's the secret to a laid-back camino.

 

[C clearly]

You are ahead of the early September crowds leaving from SJPP. If you are flexible with type of accommodation, you should be fine without advanced bookings. Play it by ear, and consult with the hospitaleros, who should have a good idea of the conditions in the next towns.

 

[OTH86]

Don't comprehend! simple as that. The terrain on Frances is "crazy" to say the least. Don't know how other people do it, I guess some have "a gift" (and BTW on my recent TMB while I was justly taking my time I saw folks RUNNING down the slopes- - apparently there is a "running" way of doing that trek supposedly only 3-4 days!!!) but it matters not. Stay the course, absolutely use the poles for stability and balance, watch where your foot goes - just deal with it one step at-a-time. You sill have way-lots-of kms to go. Feet are more important than...say your CPAP machine... heck they are more important than food you eat!!!

See above. You'll have another really treacherous descend from Cruz de Ferro into Molinaseca and couple of others as well as asends - the jury of course can and will be out as to "how bad" a given one feels to folks; then again you don't "need to know" what kind of terrain you'll find - assume the worst at any given moment, Pray to The Lord that you will not be caught on one of the "worst" ones during some deluge and concentrate on your daily walk.

AMEN! And speaking of - the Castrojeriz hill before you really get into the "flats" although I'll caution you that there are still enough "bumps" in the terrain. I'm telling you - you are doing fine! more than fine! One foot in front of the other - thats all....

A tip on going down steep hills, or what I learned from my French friends on my second camino -- go down toe first, not heel first like you walk. A few days ago, "tip-toe-ing" down one of Seattle's steep hills, a woman passed me and commented on the pains going down. I replied, "try going down on your toes." She did, and yelled a huge 'thank you!" back at me from the bottom.

I'm not sure this works going down the rocky slope after "summiting" The Alto de Perdon, however!! I now go down the road!

Buen Camino!!

MODS: again, this can be moved to it's own thread if appropriate... I like the tie-in here...

 

[TonySz]

Roncesvalles to Zubiri 13.3 miles 21.4 Km

(Copied from my FB post)

It was supposed to be an easier day but we were expecting rain. Thankfully the rain never materialized, I was surprised that despite my rough day yesterday, I was feeling energetic and had a brisk pace when I started walking. It was a gorgeous day, and I enjoyed watching these little colorful Basque towns. There were flowers everywhere, making things cheerful and beautiful. I enjoyed my first cafe stop at the entrance to Burguete, where I had my coffee and croissant surrounded by fellow pilgrims I’ve already met. By the time I got to Espinal, I stopped at another cafe, this time I had orange cake and freshly squeezed OJ.

I could get used to this. Still, no signs of rain. The blue skies, the lush landscape, and the colorful Basque houses that adorned with bright flowers was a visual banquet. The day started to get warmer, and there were a few hills that I wasn’t happy about but I was OK with. I kept meeting Pilgrims, some I’ve already met but some new ones, from various nationalities.

The high point of my day was reaching the river crossing at Biskarreta, because it is over several large blocks, and I’ve always been terrified of that very part, as my balance is not the best. Thanks to the encouragement of other pilgrims, I did it!

The day took a turn for the worse when I reached Linzoain. I was running out of water but luckily I found a potable water fountain.Then I had to climb up a steep concrete street, with heat radiating everywhere, then into the forest, more hills, it seemed endless as I’ve been told that the road to Zubiri had some hills but a lot of it was downhill, but there seemed to be one uphill after another. I was worried about running out of water, even as I was trying to ration it. At a road crossing, I spotted a food truck. The lady spotted me and told me they she was closing, but she sold me a Coke snd a bottle of water. I gulped the Coke and filled my water bottle and drank the rest.

This energized me, and I was able to resume a reasonably brisk walk, thanks to the sugar and caffeine, but I was tired. About that time I started hearing thunder rumbling in the distance, but the skies around me were fairly clear. I was hoping to finish my walk before any rain, but the terrain ahead was a veritable obstacle course due to the rocky terrain and curious geological formations that have been nicknamed “dragon’s teeth”. It took me probably an hour to negotiate the treacherous terrain. Further along, there were rocks that can get very slippery with rain. By that time, I was alone, but at least I remembered some pointers my French savior from yesterday had told me. Even though I thought I was alone, eventually other Pilgrims went by. The rain never materialized.

I finally made it to Zubiri. I wasn’t in such horrible shape as yesterday, but I was a messy sight to see.
I checked in at my Albergue, where some Pilgrims I’ve already met were staying, and I got a cheer and a hug when I made it.

Hot showers are so therapeutic! Then I had the Pilgrim dinner,where I met more lovely people, then needed to arrange for lodging for tomorrow, as well as for luggage transport. Had a nice chat with a very friendly Spanish man that was my bunkmate in Roncesvalles, snd now I’m going to bed.

The rain finally came tonight…

Tomorrow, Pamplona. 20.4 Km of mostly flat terrain. Or so they say…

I’ll attach the FB link for pics and videos when it finishes uploading.

I love your posts Hector ! Your factual description combined with a great sense of humour makes great and informative reading. I'll be doing the Camino in mid April. I hope I have resilience. You are teaching me !

 

[JillGat]

Copied from my FB page
I decided to take a day off so I can rest, process, reflect, and recalibrate how I walk the Camino. I also need to catch up on mundane things like emails, pay bills, and such. I’m sad that people I’ve met will go on, but as has already happened many times, people that have left me behind reappear, which is always a joyous occasion. So I wish the wonderful people I’ve met so far a Buen Camino, I have been blessed by having the oppoopportunity to meet you, however briefly. I already know that I’ll have the opportunity to meet even more people, in what will hopefully be a mutually enriching experience. So, I’m enjoying my Cafe Con Leche (OMG it’s so good) as I try to let these experiences sink in. It’s not about rushing to the next town, but about rethinking how I live life.

Link to my FB page: https://www.facebook.com/share/p/c121MUsKy6UgW8wJ/?mibextid=WC7FNe

View attachment 176256

I will be very surprised if you don't run into the people you have already met, again. Just watch!

You've started with a number of long-ish days.. I can imagine how exhausted you must feel. It won't be long until 20K will be easy! How are you doing with the Spanish there?

 

[CWBuff]

@OTH86 - hmmm, never thought of that...interesting
I guess someone would actually have to show me the technique in order for me to grasp it.
I personally use one if the two: either zig zag the width of the trail (was taught that by our Group leader on The Inca Trail) or going sideways- think of walking down the hill with skis on (was taught this one in my pre-teens)
Both require additional time but then it's a given on any treacherous path the likes of we are discussing.

 

[JabbaPapa]

I just sent to Ivar a package with excess things I won’t need, so if I put my cPAP machine back in, the weight might not be so unmanageable. That way I avoid having to decide in advance where I will be that night, so I won’t have to worry about sending it to a town too far than what I want to walk. In other words, I just want to walk until I decide to stop, not having to keep walking just because my luggage is 10 km away.

That is an excellent idea !!

 

[JabbaPapa]

As to the bed race stuff, I found this year that generally, between Pamplona and Astorga there was generally not much problem, though Burgos and León can both have unusually large numbers of pilgrims.

Some individually popular private or public Albergues can be harder to get into without booking ahead.

If you are "officially" disabled, with documents stating it, then in Galicia many of the Xunta Albergues have disabled dorms that are usually unoccupied even if the rest of the Albergue is completo.

 

[bullingtonce]

My name is Héctor. (I’ve been called many things)
I’m a 64 y/o retired Hispanic gentleman about to embark in something I never thought I could do.
But I’m here, in SJPDP, on my last night before starting my Camino early in the morning.
I don’t know fully why I’m doing this, but something has been calling me to do this, even though I’m not clear.
I attended the mass at the SJPDp church. The service was in French with Euskera /Basque songs, ending with a Pilgrim blessing. I didn’t understand any of it, just like there are so many things in life I still don’t understand. Perhaps the Camino will teach me something, provided I’m teachable.
Just as the initial segment to Orisson is steep, so is the learning curve. This isn’t a walk in the park, but a journey deep within as I attempt to heal and unburden myself from that which I don’t need.
I am grateful for the advice and support I’ve received in this forum.
I must now try to get some rest, because tomorrow I’m going for a walk…

You have already started your Camino and started it well even before your first step. Chuck

 

[Colette Z]

My name is Héctor. (I’ve been called many things)
I’m a 64 y/o retired Hispanic gentleman about to embark in something I never thought I could do.
But I’m here, in SJPDP, on my last night before starting my Camino early in the morning.
I don’t know fully why I’m doing this, but something has been calling me to do this, even though I’m not clear.
I attended the mass at the SJPDp church. The service was in French with Euskera /Basque songs, ending with a Pilgrim blessing. I didn’t understand any of it, just like there are so many things in life I still don’t understand. Perhaps the Camino will teach me something, provided I’m teachable.
Just as the initial segment to Orisson is steep, so is the learning curve. This isn’t a walk in the park, but a journey deep within as I attempt to heal and unburden myself from that which I don’t need.
I am grateful for the advice and support I’ve received in this forum.
I must now try to get some rest, because tomorrow I’m going for a walk…

Buen camino Hector. The Camino will do her magic in your life, just walk and let it happen!

 

[happypilgrim]

Copied from my FB page
I decided to take a day off so I can rest, process, reflect, and recalibrate how I walk the Camino. I also need to catch up on mundane things like emails, pay bills, and such. I’m sad that people I’ve met will go on, but as has already happened many times, people that have left me behind reappear, which is always a joyous occasion. So I wish the wonderful people I’ve met so far a Buen Camino, I have been blessed by having the oppoopportunity to meet you, however briefly. I already know that I’ll have the opportunity to meet even more people, in what will hopefully be a mutually enriching experience. So, I’m enjoying my Cafe Con Leche (OMG it’s so good) as I try to let these experiences sink in. It’s not about rushing to the next town, but about rethinking how I live life.

Link to my FB page: https://www.facebook.com/share/p/c121MUsKy6UgW8wJ/?mibextid=WC7FNe

View attachment 176256

aw, you seem like such a nice guy to chat with over a cafe con leche at a bar.. Reading your recaps make me miss my Camino. Buen Camino!

 

[HBS60]

Finally, finally, FINALLy I made it to Estella and checked into the Municipal Albergue
More later (or tomorrow). It took me 11 hours! I tried to stop at Villatuerta because I was exhausted, but one albergue didn’t answer, the second albergue told me that everything was closed because of the religious holiday and that there was a huge party in town, so this exhausted pilgrim must walk a few more kilometers in this infernal heat.
I’m not a happy camper at the moment. I need to shower, eat, try to u wind and process. I see like 34 notifications but I don’t have the energy right now.
I don’t think I can do this or that I have what it takes. More later…

 

[Barbara]

Just read this thread from the beginning. You have reached a point where you hurt, you are exhausted and at your lowest point. From now it can only get better. So have a beer or two, take paracetamol or, even better, see if you can get a leg massage. Have a good pity party, it will help (honestly! It does.) Then shower, eat, sleep. Forget the laundry tonight. Stay as late as you can tomorrow and try to have a short day. Take courage, you have come a long way. One day at a time, don't hurry, and all will be well.

 

[OTH86]

@OTH86 - hmmm, never thought of that...interesting
I guess someone would actually have to show me the technique in order for me to grasp it.
I personally use one if the two: either zig zag the width of the trail (was taught that by our Group leader on The Inca Trail) or going sideways- think of walking down the hill with skis on (was taught this one in my pre-teens)
Both require additional time but then it's a given on any treacherous path the likes of we are discussing.

It's as if you are tip-toe-ing downhill - but go slowly, and do not let your heel lead. if you have a French friend, maybe ask them for a demo.

I used both of your tips for down hill walking - zig-zagging and going sideways until I learned the 'french way'. I feel very confident when using this method going down any steep hill... EXCEPT rocky side of the ALto de Perdon!! My legs go on auto-pilot. Wish I could provide a video, but I'm a much better walker than computer operator!!! Buen Camino!!

 

[HBS60]

Note: I wrote a lengthy post yesterday about day 6 but it seems stuck in the uploading mode, not sure how to fix it.

Day 7: Puente la Reina to Estella, 14.5 miles, took me 11 hours!!! Eleven freaking hours!!!!!!

As seems to be the pattern, mornings on the Camino are fine. It was a beautiful, cool morning, and a passerby pilgrim couple took my pic as I left Puente La Reina. I set off enthusiastically. I can walk at a brisk pace, and while I do struggle with the climbs and the terrain, I can recover fairly quickly. The first climb to Mañeru was difficult, but it was fairly early in the day. When I got there, I found a nice little park with picnic tables, so I took advantage of that to check on my feet, apply Vaseline for blister prevention, adjust my gear, fill the water bottle. This nice couple shows up, and they were PRs like me! So we took a selfie showing the 3 of us around my backpack which had the PR flag. Then I walked some more, coming up to the stunningly beautiful town of Ciriaqui. I stopped there for a Coke, but the town was deserted. Along the way, I struck conversations with a German guy who eventually moved on, and later on with a Finnish guy, this latter one helped me pass the aftas we talked about our countries, with some of the hard to avoid politics.

We eventually reached the tiny town of Lorca, where he was staying. By that time, after gulping a Coke And an Aquarius, I was passing by sn Albergue snd and a sweet Cinise young woman let me use their bathroom, filled my water bottle, and I bought some chocolate/vanilla ice cream sandwich which felt heavenly.

I debated whether I should stop there for the day, as I wasn’t sure I could make it to Estella, but I thought I could make it to Villatuerta. The path was actually very smooth and flat, but when I got there, I tried calling an albergue but no answer. The doors were closed. I called a different albergue and I was told that because of the religious weekend holiday, everything was closed but there was a huge party in time. An overheated exhausted pilgrim didn’t seem to be high on their priority list, and I had no choice but to continue to Estella, which thankfully was just 2.6 Km (I think) away. I called ahead and they had beds at the Hospital de Perrgrinos, which is the Municipal Albergue.

So I dragged my sorry exhausted pilgrim ass towards Estella, cursing and wondering why earth I’m doing this. There were some rough, tricky spots, but nothing I haven’t encountered before. It probably felt worse because of the tiredness, the heat of the day, and because I was in a foul mood, but it really wasn’t that far away, so eventually I arrived at Estella. After a hot shower and eating a dinner of Pasta Carbonars, I’m feeling better,trying to think of my strategy for tomorrow. I’ll probably do just a half day. BTW, while the cPAP machine did feel heavier, I seem to be fine with it.

I also re-encountered a lady I met at SJPDP, so that was a great morale booster after feeling left behind by others. But right now I feel too exhausted to socialize, and I’m trying to figure how to best plan my walking days.

I expected hardship, so I figure this experience will show me my true limits and potential.

Link to my FB post: https://www.facebook.com/share/gTfBfHFmgUPmGM6o/?mibextid=WC7FNe

 

[Anhalter]

Having had a look on your Facebook video with the poles: you are using them wrong! (like many others). This actually makes you use more energy instead of less!
Please do yourself a favor and have a look at some video on youtube how to use poles correctly. I learned from this one, but every other should be just as fine.

 

[WalkingLester]

If you feel the need, taking a rest day in Puente or Estella is an excellent idea. I met a hospitalera in Estella once who told me she has noticed that more than a few pilgrims quit in Estella due to injury. Also I know from my own experience that around day 4-5 I start thinking about things I don’t need and how I can lighten my pack. I think your Camino will be better if you can carry your own pack. Usually I will walk a few hours and whenever I feel like I know where I want to stop and sleep I start sending WhatsApp messages and see if I can make a reservation.

So far, with respect to avoiding injury and managing your pack, and all Camino logistics you are crushing this Camino. I am excited for you. Carry on !!

 

[JabbaPapa]

Day 7: Puente la Reina to Estella, 14.5 miles, took me 11 hours!!! Eleven freaking hours!!!!!!

Today, Navarrenx to Oloron-Sainte-Marie which is about the same distance but on basically pure flatland took me about the same time.

You're doing well pilgrim !!

 

[jungleboy]

I don’t think I can do this or that I have what it takes.

I'm sure you can and that you do. The first days of a first camino are difficult physically for everyone, but you have shown that you have the spirit to carry on.

On our first camino in 2017, my wife realised at the very place you are now, Estella, that something was seriously wrong with her feet (she had developed plantar fasciitis). But she carried on in pain for the remaining 650km and although the problem has never really gone away, she has walked at least one camino every year since.

Caminos can be full of ups and downs, but persevering through the downs will make it that much sweeter when you finally look up at the cathedral in Santiago, having completed your task. ¡Buen camino!

P.S. If you need some inspiration, you could do worse than this thread:

https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/what-does-the-spirit-of-the-camino-mean-to-you.68636/