Trabadelo to La Faba-9.4 miles 15 Km.
My day didn’t start well, actually my evening wasn’t good, either. I’ve been trying for two days to change my Santiago to Madrid train ride two days later, but the Trainline app wouldn’t let me even when my ticket was changeable. After multiple phone calls to Customer service, getting the runaround, having to make callbacks only to get a different agent, having to explain my request all over again but getting nowhere, I was livid. Unfortunately, the Albergue I chose served only vegetarian meals but wouldn’t tell me what they were going to serve, and they wanted me to join their community meal. I simply don’t like vegetarian meals and I was hungry, so I made an effort to eat some of it. The socialization was good and I tried to join the camaraderie, but I was still aggravated by the train issue. (I resolved it later). I felt I was sticking out like a sore thumb and I didn’t want to contribute my negativity, so I disengaged as politely as I could but it was awkward.
I woke up this morning and I couldn’t find my food bag where I have my “survival snacks” and moreover, I couldn’t find my luggage transport envelope which I had filled the evening before with the money. I’ve heard of albergue thefts but I was trying not to reach unwarranted conclusions, so I filled a new envelope with the money in it, and I started to walk, in a bad mood, and hungry.
Fortunately, a few kilometers down the road, I found a truck stop and a hotel with a restaurant, so I was able to buy some snacks, have breakfast and that helped my mood. My route today was to go up to La Faba, which is halfway up to O Cebreiro, and this climb has a notorious reputation. The route passes through a few towns and countryside, with cows in close proximity, just across the street from a sidewalk cafe when I was having a Café con Leche. Great bucolic, peaceful scenes, good for the soul.
Then, after Las Herrerías, the climb started to get steep. Initially it was along a highway, it was close to noon by now and it was getting warmer, so I shed a few layers. I had to stop several times due to tiredness and to catch my breath. Then the route took me off the road to a trail shaded by a dense canopy of trees. It was rather rocky but not impossible, just very steep. The shade helped so much as it keep the atmosphere cool enough to prevent overheating. As I was laboring up the mountain, a woman recognized me from my FB posts, explaining that she had a friend that follows me, so she took a selfie of us together to show it to him.
By this time my mood was much better, as the countryside was just gorgeous. I finally got to the Albergue early, I was about 45 minutes too early before they opened up, but I was able to enjoy their beautiful grounds. My backpack was there, to my relief.
So I got settled in, showered, put clothes in the washer (many, although not all albergues have available a washer and sometimes also a dryer, usually 4-6 euros each), although many people wash their clothes by hand and hang them to dry. I’m just not very good at handwashing.
I decided to search both my backpacks…and I found my food bag buried deep in the daypack, and I also found the missing transport envelope with the money, feeling embarrassed how upset I was this morning.
It’s now getting to be late afternoon, and I’ve enjoyed this particular albergue a lot, wishing I could stay longer, but I must move on. Tomorrow I complete the climb to O Cebreiro when I’m fresh in the morning, but will move on. There’s a couple uphills afterwards that might be challenging but short, then it goes downhill to Triacastela where I’ll spend the night. It will be a much longer distance than the previous two days, but I don’t want to fall too far behind, as I’m hoping to make it to Santiago around the 20th-22nd, and changing my ride dates will give me a couple extra buffer days.
Tomorrow I finally exit Castilla León and will enter Galicia. I’m looking forward to new experiences in this beautiful place.
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