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Game of choices: to stay at Herbon or not?

rainswift

Active Member
Time of past OR future Camino
Jun 2024 - Portuguese Litoral + VE + Finisterre
The more I research ahead of my Camino, the more interesting things I find to do/see/experience! Just discovered/heard about the apparently wonderful monastery at Herbon and would love to stay a night. For anyone not familiar, this is a restored monastery, apparently now a donativo albergue, where there is a communal meal for pilgrims in the evening. They also give a tour of the monastery. It's supposed to be a really wonderful traditional Camino experience.

Unfortunately, it appears I have to play a game of choices. I wonder if anyone might chime in on their opinion of which to pick. I am taking the Variante Espiritual. The choices are:

1. Pontevedra > Combarro > Armenteira > Ribadumia (Os Castanos) > Vilanova de Arousa > Angueira de Suso > Santiago

or

2. Pontevedra > Combarro > Armenteira > Vilanova de Arousa > Herbon > Angueira de Suso > Santiago

Reasons/Rationales/Values:

I value taking my time. In my whole Camino, no day is longer than 28km (and I kind of resent that day in my potential itinerary). My average distance walked per day should be around 16km. I want to walk slow, savour the experience, and reduce blisters. I also need to nurse an old pelvic injury and not flare it up.

In choice 1, I get to take a leisurely, relaxing, short day (only 8km) from Armenteira down the Ruta de la Piedra y del Agua and into Ribadumia. I overnight at Os Castanos taberna and then have a moderate length day (19km) into Vilanova de Arousa. This was my original plan because I really wanted to enjoy the Ruta de la Piedra y del Agua. In a previous thread I thought I had settled on choice 1. That was before I found out about Herbon.

In choice 2, I have a longer day (24km) from Armenteira straight to Vilanova de Arousa. But, this enables me to take the Traslatio the next day, pop into Padron for some lunch/snacks, and then divert over to Herbon (maybe 6km total depending on how much I mosey about in Padron). I should be able to get to Herbon by 2pm at the latest, which hopefully will land me one of their non-reservable beds.

I'm not particularly excited to stay in Ribadumia. It just happens to be functionally in the right spot to split the long day from Armenteira. Comparatively, I am excited to stay at Herbon and experience it. Edit to add: It's also important to me to stay at Armenteira monastery. I guess I just really love monasteries.

On the other hand, I am really looking forward to the Ruta de la Piedra y del Agua and would hate to rush it. For a 24 km day, assuming I take my time on the Ruta, it would take about 2 hours to walk. Then I'd have another 6-7 hours to go, at my pace, to reach Vilanova de Arousa. Including a lunch stop in Ribadumia, I'm probably looking at getting into Vilanova de Arousa around 6pm, maybe even 7pm. That's a long day, and pretty late to get to my hostel, though it should be fine if I give them a heads up.

I'd be disappointed if Herbon cannot accommodate me and I have to go find somewhere to stay in Padron, given that I would have maybe rushed the Ruta to make it to Herbon. (I know- I need to temper my expectations of the Camino experience in order to actually enjoy it!)

Herbon straight to Santiago is not really an option - too long a day considering the uphill towards Santiago.

I have carefully examined my theoretical stages/route and don't think I can make up the extra distance elsewhere/sneak a day in elsewhere. I also cannot extend my trip; my flights to/from Europe are unchangeable cheap basic tickets.

I'd appreciate all of your opinions on choice 1 vs choice 2. (It's not totally binary; if anyone has any clever suggestions I'm open to hearing them!)

As always, your faithful future peregrina in overplanning, with thanks,
rainswift.
 
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The focus is on reducing the risk of failure through being well prepared. 2nd ed.
I enjoyed my stay at Herbon monastery. I caught the 0800 speedboat from Vilaneuva de Arousa to Pontecesures, which was quicker than the 0700 big slow boat. We stopped for coffee after arrival, I walked to Padron with friends then out to the Monastery and was there by 11am. I was 5th in line. A sign on the door states the monastery now takes 30 pilgrims and there were 28 the night I stayed (14th September 2023). The monastery opens at 4pm. A number of people left their backpacks in line at the door then went back to town to eat or down to the river for a swim. The volunteers do a wonderful job and if you stay, please do the tour of the grounds and attend the pilgrims mass which are both before dinner. (I’m actually unsure why some people make the effort to stay at Herbon but don’t attend either of these). I then walked to Milladorio the following day, SdC was a short 7.75km walk the day after that. I don’t remember the walk into SdC particularly being particularly hard so could be done in one day.
 
On the Variante Espritual this year, my stopping points after Pontevedra were Combarro, Os Castanos, Vilanova de Arousa and Areal, and then into Santiago. I arrived at Armenteira around midday, but on a weekend and the place was so packed that I had a quick bite to eat and pushed on. If staying at Hebron is your priority, not staying at Armenteira would be one way of approaching your dilemma.
 
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Staying at Armenteira Monastery is also a priority for me. The very kind @kenwilltravel mentioned that it was a highlight of his experience on the Variante, along with the Ruta.
 
Thanks for the tip about the speedboat! When I get to Vilanova de Arousa, do I just tell the hospitalero that I want to take the speedboat the next day instead of the slow boat? Or do I show up at the docks in the morning and just hope?

I will plan to arrive earlier at Herbon Monastery to line up.
 
I haven't done the spiritual variant (yet), but have stayed at a few monasteries. The experience at Hebron was unique. The tour of the grounds and hearing the history of the monks was special. The communal meal was a nice social experience, although not the most generous from a culinary perspective. I would totally recommend staying there if you can
 
The focus is on reducing the risk of failure through being well prepared. 2nd ed.
We stayed at Hebron -so nice. Be there as early as possible, the first 30 get a bed. Mydaughter and I were number 29 and 30.
Do book the monastery of Armenteira- we had to walk 10 more kilometers to O’castaneda for a bed ( some took a taxi) Buon Camino !
 

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I have no new information to add, but I don't think any is really necessary. I think you have answered your own question in the paragraph quoted above.
 
I have no new information to add, but I don't think any is really necessary. I think you have answered your own question in the paragraph quoted above.
This is a very succinct way of getting to the heart of the question! I think you’re saying, do it, the Way invites me!
 
The focus is on reducing the risk of failure through being well prepared. 2nd ed.
I booked the boat online a couple days before hand with Amare Turismo Nautico.
 
I completed that route three weeks ago: Pontevedra>Combarro>Monastery at Armenteria>Villanova > Herbon > O Escravitude > SDC
The monastery at Armenteria was really one of the high points. And Herbon was wonderful too. We took the 9 am small boat with Amare which included a great tour, had breakfast, walked to and looked around Padron, and arrived at Herbon around 2:40, just as they opened their doors. There were maybe 4-5 beds left after us. The day from Armenteria felt very long to us, so if its possible, you could break that stretch up.
 
That's exactly what I was worried about - the long day from Armenteira to Vilanova de Arousa.

If you remember, please tell me when did you leave Armenteira, and what time did you arrive in Vilanova de Arousa?

Re: arriving at Herbon, I will plan to take the boat with Amare as suggested, have breakfast in Padron, then then head to Herbon to wait most of the afternoon for them to open. I want to be sure to get to stay!
 
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Re: arriving at Herbon, I will plan to take the boat with Amare as suggested, have breakfast in Padron, then then head to Herbon to wait most of the afternoon for them to open. I want to be sure to get to stay!
Boat departures depend upon the tides. When I took the boat earlier this year, they did not depart until mid-day. I don't know if the speedboat departure depends on the tides as well. It might not be, and if you want to be sure of arriving at Herbon early, that would be a better option for you.

ps the Amare Translatio later this month is departing quite late in the morning. Eg on 28 Oct, they show a 12:00 (noon) departure.
 
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We left Armenteria early, 7;45?, it was still dark, just getting light. But in hindsight, it was hard to see some of the most beautiful parts in the first part. And it was a bit dicey footing in the semi dark for us. If we were to do it again we might to a “preview” of the first km or so the day before in good light. Or keep walking through Armenteria to shorten the next day.

The walk from Armenteria to Villanove was not challenging elevation wise but just long for us. The last long flat section dragged on and we arrived right into the town at maybe 5 or 6? One thing you might do is try to find lodging before you get right into town, maybe reduce distance by 1-2 km?

We had breakfast at Pontecesures (Town that boat arrives in) because we were chilled ot the bone. You can go directly to Herbon and skip Padron, which is a nicer and shorter route by the river at the end. I dont know when you are planning to walk, but we walked in high season, late Sept, and got beds, so I’m thinking if you are there a bit earlier, you’ll be ok. Or you can go early, put your pack down and go hang out by the river!
 
Have you considered just starting and walking and finding out what Camino has in mind for you?
 
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I highly advise dressing warm for the boat. I wore my rain jacket even though it wasn’t raining, just to provide some protection from the wind.
 
Thank you! I'm going in June and sunrise should be around 7am then. Hopefully it will be light when I get going.

The "preview" of the first km the day before sounds like a good plan, too. Thanks for suggesting it.

June should be a busy season too. May just do as you suggest, put my pack down and go hang out by the river!
 
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Thank you for this information. I'll go in June 2024 on the Camino. I guess I'll have to find out what time the boat leaves when I get to Vilanova de Arousa. I think Amare runs the speedboat and La Barca Del Peregrino runs the big boat? Just from Tripadvisor pictures. Or maybe both have a big boat and a speedboat and they decide which boat to run depending on how many passengers.
 
Get a spanish phone number with Airalo. eSim, so no physical SIM card. Easy to use app to add more funds if needed.
I highly advise dressing warm for the boat. I wore my rain jacket even though it wasn’t raining, just to provide some protection from the wind.
Thanks for the tip. I'll put on all my layers. I won't have a fleece but I have a couple of longsleeves (one merino hoodie, one hiking shirt) that I can layer under my rain jacket. And my scarf.
 
Have you considered just starting and walking and finding out what Camino has in mind for you?
Yes. I'm aware the Camino could take the wheel from me and tip me into a great mystery and adventure beyond my wildest contingency plans. And if that happens, I would welcome it.

Nonetheless, it gives me great pleasure to fuss over the details now. I really enjoy planning. If I am annoying those on this forum, I apologize.
 

I stayed there while walking the Central route. I was the only person there, with two hospitaleros, and there was a pilgrim's mass, too. Other locals were there. They packed me a lunch in the morning. I looked around Padron in the morning, went to the Rosalia Castro Museum, looked for the park John Brierley has on the cover of the guide book. Stayed in Caldas de Reis the night before and Teo the night after. Made it to Santiago in time for Pilgrims' Mass.
 
The focus is on reducing the risk of failure through being well prepared. 2nd ed.
That sounds lovely. I should have a relatively short day from Herbon to Angueira de Suso after overnighting in Herbon, so I'll make sure to look around Padron and see some sights. Thanks for your experience!
 
I think there are plenty on this forum who love researching and planning, reading about others researching and planning, and discussing the same.

It is all well and good to say "Do no research and just walk and see what happens". But then you might end up at the place with the historic church or museum of greatest interest to you on a Monday when it is closed. Or you might walk past Hebron, which is a little off the regular marked route, without knowing it is there. Not the end of the world, to be sure, but an opportunity that didn't need to be missed. Myself, I am all for the planning, and enjoying the planning, and educating yourself through the planning, so long as you minimize commitments to the plans.
 
If I weren't nosing around on all the details, I would have missed that Herbon even existed, for sure! Or I would have planned to walk in September, and missed staying at Armenteira Monastery as they don't take pilgrims in September. Or my other thread about going to the Cies Islands on my rest day - I wouldn't have known about them if I weren't digging and planning.

My point being, I appreciate your support as I plan, and re-plan, and un-plan my Camino. Thank you so much.
 
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The Armentiera - Villanova da Arousa day is long but as long as your mentally prepared for that it you should be fine. The first 4K on the Ruta da Pedra just flies by, then there’s a lovely section along a river with beautiful vineyards, then some OK villages but it’s starting to drag and there’s not a lot of shade, then you get to the beach and you get excited. Surely, VdArousa must be just around the corner but it just goes on and on and on, it’s a very long 3k. A Spanish pilgrim said ´Donde esta el $&@# pueblo?!!’ Even i understood Ideally you do it in two days but it sounds like Hebron is important to you so just suck it up.
 
Los horarios en Amare ya están publicados y puedes comprar tus billetes para el 2024: https://reservas.amareturismonautico.com/
 

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