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LIVE from the Camino FRANCÉS: Flies, spiders, isolation & roommates: not what I expected!


Good luck. SxxT happens on Camino
I hope you can enjoy the rest of your journey........
I know where I'd rather be right now.
And I've only been back three weeks


Afterthought......

There are some interesting comments here about Pilgrimage v Vacation.

Sadly I think there are too many companies and videos out there promoting the Camino as some kind of 'vacation'.

Or maybe I don't understand the term vacation?

Is a vacation supposed to include pain, disappointment, sadness, loneliness, tears, discomfort, frustration?
For me the Camino includes all those things and more.

But thankfully it's balanced with large doses of joy, laughter, gratitude, comfort, thanks, confidence building, freedom, wonderment, awe, peace, and so much more.

That's a Camino to me...... the ups and downs.........and the unexpected..........


Sadly, you had the expectation of, and were 'sold' a vacation.......
What you got, was a Camino.
And try as you might, to bash it into the shape of a vacation...
It's not.

But I truly hope you get enough highs to balance the lows and find that whilst it wasn't what you expected.......it was a worthwhile journey.

As others have said, time for you to get off this Forum and go talk to some Pilgrims
Buen Camino.
 
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JCarpenter said:
It is possible that you could do that busier section without meeting many if you sta in Casas far from the camino. If your travel agent can change a few accomodations ahead to albergues, and you leave earlier you will run into people.
Click to expand...
It seems that you have precooked the whole Camino, if you cannot just leave. It is better not to book too far ahead and to vary the places you sleep at. Albergues are great places to meet fellow travellers
 

I know we can only share our own experiences. That's all we know of course.
But in the interests of providing an alternative 'balancing' perspective......

I think I have shared this before.

Last 100 kms.

On my first Camino in 2015, solo from St Jean, I hit the final stages from Sarria, injured, exhausted and lonely. Everyone I knew was now days ahead of me, or finished.
I had been carrying injuries the whole journey, and was now down to about 10 kms per day. But was determined to 'get it done'. I had come so far.

It was a shock hitting the 'crowds' of Pilgrims after Sarria. But through reading posts here I knew what to expect. I was prepared. It was certainly an us and them feeling, as the 'long' walkers were head down on the final leg, and the 'short' walkers were in party mood groups.

I made a decision there and then. To embrace this 'different' Camino. It was to take me 10 more days to reach Santiago. And I wanted to enjoy this last section.

It was amazing!

I met a church group from the US who had a support coach and were being led by an 84 year old Nun.
Wonderful people who were having an amazing time.

I met a lady who was leading her blind husband......

I made a point, to engage with these latest Pilgrims. To talk to them, hear their stories, and share their joy.

They were just doing it 'their' way, which was different to my way, that's all.

Agency Booking

I have met lots of people who had booked their Camino through agencies. Most, sadly, were frustrated with the experience. The lack of flexibility, the inappropriate distances, the inconvenient lodging locations......

But they made the best of their Camino regardless. And we enjoyed each others company for however long it lasted.

Two of my most meaningful early Camino encounters and friendships, were with people who had booked via agencies. In both cases, for 10-12 days, we would walk together at times, or stay in touch via whatsapp, and catch up for meals along the way. Never staying in the same accommodation, but sometimes the same town.

So Yes, I would agree @Anhalter , their experiences were very different to mine.
But we were all having a great experience and were able to share it in some way.......
There's always common ground.
 
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@Liltravlr, thank you for prompting such a fascinating and differing lot of responses. Those that resonated with me the most were from @Robo and @VNwalking. It could be our shared Pacific heritage, or something.

As the saying goes, their camino is not my camino.

And can do your camino as you wish. And you can change your original style to one that suits your surroundings. One example: I suggest reading newspapers on arrival at your destination for the day. Or whatever else better suits your needs and your surroundings.

I finish by saying kia kaha, kia māia, kia man'wa'nui (take care, be strong, patient and confident).
 
Well said, David. I am starting my Camino on the 26th of August. I WILL go with the flow, accepting what happens, good or bad. Go well!
 
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I know for a fact that, if I had a booking agent, I would be disappointed and frustrated. I almost never do well when somebody else plans for me. I agree with this from an earlier poster: [[Or, be adventurous, ignore your bookings for once and check into a non-bookable pilgrim albergue (if you arrive early it should not be difficult to get a bed). Preferrably a parroquial one with communal dinner.]]
 
I hear your frustration and tiredness. I appreciate your gracious acceptance of feedback, some of it is downright rude and know-it-all. Good on you for staying open, because this is how the Camino is coming to you at the moment. I also understand that you feel you need a holiday more than you need a pilgrimage in your life just now. Sounds like you have been hoping for a place with friendly people and an opportunity to put on a dancing dress and have fun. All these things are valid ways to enjoy Spain , but here you are on pilgrimage, and for what it's worth, when you get to SDC, feeling like a pilgrim, seeing the pilgrims all around you, hopefully you will really feel a wonderful sense of accomplishment and belonging. Meanwhile the Camino sure is working on you in its own way!
 
Whip into the chemist and pick up some bug spray and earplugs. If you’re staying too far off the beaten track you will feel isolated, maybe stay in a albergue where you have to meet people for a night or two. Eat in towns Peregrino meals with other pilgrims.
Maybe this is your lesson for this stage of the walk not to give up but turn it into the social experience you are looking for.
 
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it sounds like most of your difficulties are not physical and that is wonderful. Meditate about the reason/purpose for you pilgrimage; if you did not have one you will likely find it along the way. You will find comfort. Remember: you are loved. You are strong. You are lifted up. May God bless you and keep you. May His face shine upon you. May He lift up your countenance and give you peace. May He keep you safe. May your intentions be granted.
 
I felt lonely for the first 3-5 days of the two caminos that I walked alone. On one trip I hooked up with an Aussie, and we are still friends. On the other trip I took alone, there were a few women that that I would walk with. I actually realized that I met more friends when I started alone (on 2 other trips I was with my husband).
Hopefully you'll get used the the insects.
Earplugs (I prefer the clear, moldable silicone) and a shirt over my face are must haves for me. I suspect/hope that now you are happier or even thriving.
 
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Finished the Sarria to Santiago section yesterday in 7 walking stages. In hindsight, I should have broken it into 8 stages for our walking ability, but that is for the future.

Despite the occasional noisy teen groups, there were many times each day when I walked alone. The first nights we stayed in the government sponsored Xunta albergues. None were full the 3 nights we stayed. About halfway, my husband was suffering because he could not walk the stages I had planned and carry his pack, so I prebooked the last 3 nights so we could ship his bag. Suddenly we were very isolated in private rooms. If we hadn't had each other, it might have been quite lonely.

This is not what I expected at all from the last 115 km of the CF and I am an experienced pilgrim. I expected nonstop crowds in a huge Fiesta on the move. Each person will have different experiences each time they walk depending on their physical limitations, accommodations, etc. I am sorry yours has not been what you thought.

Walking every day is hard. Sometimes you don't have the energy to be social or go to Mass or even get a few things at the store or do your laundry. Other times after a short nap you are able to enjoy a shared dinner or a chat with others.

I hope you won't give up. Even a disappointing experience can help us learn a lot about ourselves. I don't like flies either, but that is one thing that was familiar about this year's walk and about the only thing I did not find surprising!
 
In Casa do Cabo in Arzua atm, is a guy snoring so loud the building is shaking, & this is through 2 walls! My earplugs can’t win against that. 3 giggly girls pounded up the stairs & I actually welcomed it as surely he couldn’t sleep through that, but yup, still going. So a private room is no guarantee of quiet. I’m actually missing the spiders at Casa Roan- at least it was quiet
 
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Thank you for your kind words.
I had some great days: in Melide I booked A Lua Do Camiño as recommended (here) for the pool and it was amazing! & coincided with the hottest day so far, 33C.
We had scheduled some rest days which I knew we needed (for my sister to sleep & for me to do a different kind of workout than walking), we enjoyed Arzua & the food has been amazing; our gluten-free needs have been superbly accommodated.
We have now been to 4 masses & though we are Baptist & my sister is just learning Spanish, I downloaded a Spanish mass document to follow along. We have learned some songs & enjoy the church aspect very much, & the splendid architecture even more, which we certainly don’t have at home.
I’ve chatted more at length with the servers & cleaners than other walkers as they still speed past me, but have had several honks when I wear my Canada shirt
Tonight I will pray for the snoring man below me who honestly sounds like he’s choking to death. I have a Jeopardy podcast & this place has great wifi
Mostly, we can’t believe that this time next week we’ll be home, for better or for worse (see our kids but real life will intrude). I will miss these walking days. I am determined to enjoy “my” Camino. Even though one response below said I wasn’t a true pilgrim if I didn’t do the 800k, I have a T-shirt that says I am, so it must be true
#buencamino
 
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Liltravlr said:
one response below said I wasn’t a true pilgrim if I didn’t do the 800k
Click to expand...
Utterly untrue.

It seems that you’re getting into the rhythm. I hope it continues to improve for both of you.

Perhaps next time (because there often is a next time) you might be prepared to just take it as it comes; the ‘packaging’ of a Camino is both unnecessary and dilutes the experience IMHO.
 
Liltravlr said:
. Even though one response below said I wasn’t a true pilgrim if I didn’t do the 800k, I have a T-shirt that says I am, so it must be true
#buencamino
Click to expand...

I can't believe someone would say such a thing!
I had a look, and couldn't find it.
Looks like it got deleted thankfully.

So glad to hear things are improving.

Buen Camino.
 
t2andreo said:
Thank you for concisely restating one of the cardinal values of the Camino - to wit (in long form):

"Tourists complain and demand - pilgrims expect little, and are grateful."
Click to expand...

I would like to think this is universally true, but I think it has become a cliche in these times and behaviour has as much to do with one's personality as it has to do with intention. Plenty of 'true pilgrims' bemoan their lot and complain their way across Spain in a barrage of self righteous entitlement. Conversely, plenty of 'tourists', even in disappointment, take it on the chin and accept how things pan out and just make the most of it.
 
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My sister and I walked Sarria to Santiago barely a month ago. We went with the booked accommodations and luggage transfer. All we had to worry about was the walk and getting to the next town. It made the walk much less stressful and very enjoyable. Yet, I get the impression from many responses on this thread that we "don't count". That we're doing it "wrong". That we are somehow "less". I thought the Camino was supposed to be individual. Just because you're making it a pilgrimage doesn't mean everyone has to -- at least not in the same way you are defining a pilgrimage. Don't we all have our own reasons for doing it? And don't we all have individual time, money, health, etc., constraints for how we are doing it?

Did all pilgrims from back then all come from far away? None lived closer to Santiago for their own journey? Sometimes, it sounds like the longer you walk the more legit you are. And I don't think that's what the Camino is supposed to be about. Maybe I'm wrong.

I'm planning on going back. That little taste has left me hungry for more. I want to walk more stages even though time and money means I still can't do the entire thing. And I still prefer the security of having a room and the rest of my bag waiting for me at the end of the day.
 
I'm sorry that some people seem to think that way. However I think that the point of many posts reacting to the OP was that you can't expect to have the same Camino experience as those staying in albergues, starting early in the morning, etc. if you are staying in off Camino accommodation, and walking during different times than most pilgrims. Not so much that one way is better than the other - they will be two different kinds of experiences.
 
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makowi said:
Yet, I get the impression from many responses on this thread that we "don't count". That we're doing it "wrong". That we are somehow "less".
Click to expand...
I don't think your impression is valid for most of the responses. Of course there are some responses that might be like that, but that variation will exist for any topic. Rather, the OP started the thread expressing her disappointment and difficulties at the start of her Camino. Much of that disappointment was related to expectations developed during 3 years of research and anticipation, so expectations became of topic for discussion.

She also described some specific difficulties, and again responders tried to suggest possible reasons for those difficulties and potential solutions. Those solutions naturally involved changes to how she was doing things, since her approach hadn't been satisfactory to her. That is not quite the same as people giving unsolicited advice that she was doing it wrong.

The OP identified the problems, opening up the discussion to different ways to walk a Camino.
 
makowi said:
And I still prefer the security of having a room and the rest of my bag waiting for me at the end of the day.
Click to expand...
Most of us prefer that, to be honest, whether we do it or not.

And. One of the joys of the Camino is (used to be?) stretching a little, and not doing that. Finding in the end that the little we can carry is enough, and how not clinging to security is incredibly freeing.

Of course your pilgrimage counts, if you have that intention.

Once upon a time people who transported their packs and booked were a small minority, but (at least on the Francés). Now it may be the opposite. So it's more the sea change in Camino culture that people are reacting to, not you personally, @makowi.
 
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@VNwalking

Well said Vera. You captured the feeling of many of us perfectly.

Thank you.

It really is sad that any reference to the choice of actually carrying their kit when physically able and simply walking all or most of the route is immediately labeled judgement by those who choose to use the ever growing services now offered to ease the way…..even when it is made perfectly clear that everyone supports the use of any and all use of these services for those who actually require them.
 
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VNwalking said:
Once upon a time people who transported their packs and booked were a small minority, but (at least on the Francés). Now it may be the opposite.
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Well within living memory! On my first Camino Frances I carried a small guide from the Confraternity of St James which gave very brief indications of where refugios and hostals were to be found but in almost all of the listings there was no phone number mentioned. Not a problem because the notion of reserving a bed was almost unheard of. And there was no luggage transport unless you made private arrangements for a support vehicle or a local taxi service. I can't recall meeting anyone who had done so on either my first or second Caminos.
 
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I used that guide, too. Though I lost it about half way along the Norte, at the same place where I lost one sock from a washing line. I'm still not sure how that happened. Fortunately keeping the sea on the right worked quite well most of the time. As did rocking up at a bar and asking if anyone had a room for me and a bit of grass for the donkey.
It's been an interesting thread. I wonder if I would have done my first Camino if I had prepared for three years, though. I'd probably have decided it was all too hard and complicated and gone to the seaside instead. I seem to remember deciding to go on something of a whim after seeing a plaque on a wall in St Catherine de Fierbois, of all places. The Norte was my second Camino, first one was the Tours route and the Frances. On a bike. (I'll just get my hat and coat and get out, now.)
 
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UPDATE to my original post: we finished! I got no blisters, no bites, and we didn’t kill each other. I learned alot: this was my FIRST Camino, which I must remind you experienced, grizzled diehards. I learned MYSELF what I need & what not to carry. I learned what the countryside is like, how I handle hills& not to race the people around me. I learned I take way less time to get ready than my sister, need way less sleep, & like to get walking earlier. I learned I can really get up & go dirty & don’t need that many showers, but I also disagree people should allow themselves to be stinky (we passed many). If you see something you like (souvenir, shirt, jewelry), buy it; you don’t want to carry it, but you may NOT see the same thing again. Now I know what the small towns, villages, & bars look (& smell) like. However, ALL of these things had to be experienced. You can’t know what it’s like for YOU from someone else’s experience.
I arrived at the Cathedral on my final day in time because my sister walks faster & we were trying to make it because people in Lavacolla said if you weren’t in line by 11, you wouldn’t get in. So I was prepared to go to the evening one, but with a little powering on, thanks to my sister’s pace, despite a ton of rain, we made it in time. You MUST check your pack; this was also not made clear. The mass was incredible! By this time, I can follow along & say the responsive prayers. They did the smoky urn thing which was awesome, I cried & hugged my sister a long time.
No, it wasn’t physically taxing at all except the first day with my pack because I hadn’t practiced at home with it during my walks. I enjoyed clean clothes along the way so would transport my bag next time as well, though they did go missing yesterday (after several calls & emails, they showed up at 7pm, making me miss a dance show I’d planned with a friend here).
I plan to do the Coastal Camino in September by myself- not for the introspection, but to have my own schedule & room. I will never stay in a dorm, nope. I’m not a prima donna & will sleep in a bus station or airport or anywhere without snoring people, sorry.
I thank the kind people on here for answering all my many questions!
See you on the next one.
#buencamino!

 
Camino Way markers in Bronze
The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.
Congratulations!

And thank you for the update. It is really good to hear that, after all, you did enjoy the experience You did what pilgrims do, you adapted and learned, found out what you need, what works for you and what doesn't, and you made it and arrived!

Happy planning for the next Camino!
 
Well, there you are, you made it. Quite a contrast to your comments in the original post. It was worth it, yes? You learn a lot on the Camino. You learn a lot about yourself.
Congratulations on reaching Santiago and experiencing the magic there. Well done!
 
Let us pick up your suitcase once you arrive in Europe....
...and ship it to Santiago for storage. You pick it up once in Santiago. Service offered by Casa Ivar (we use DHL for transportation).
I'm so sorry. Please do not lose hope. I feel you. I walked the Camino in 2019 and my Camino was hard. It was hard until it wasn't and now, with time, my memory of it has faded and I want to do it again. You don't know what tomorrow will bring. The full moon is coming and with it lots of energy, maybe stirred up emotions. Have faith that things will improve and that each day will bring new blessings. Right now I am on Bali. Like you, I did years and years of research. The photos are beautiful but no one tells you there are no sidewalks in Ubud and that the air quality is bad and that everyone smokes and that incense smells putrid and that you have to walk far and spend a lot of money just to get water to brush your teeth. Travel is hard. No amount of research can save you from that. But have faith my dear traveler friend. I'll be thinking of you and maybe you will think of me, and the moon will get full, and then it will wane, and one day you will look back on today with fond memories. Buen camino.
 
VeganCamino said:
m so sorry. Please do not lose hope.
Click to expand...
Perhaps you should read the OP's update a few posts above yours.
 
I am a natural, loving-it loner. During my camino, I hardly felt lonely because I enjoy solitude, being by myself with my thoughts. But I did make many friends along the way. There were times when we said goodbye, only to see each other again a few days later. What joy it was. I kept an eye out for lonely souls who were shy, sitting apart from the others, and looking forlorn. Once I saw a young Brazilian woman tending to her blisters and no one was paying attention to her. I approached her and had a little chat. We ended up exchanging gifts. She gave me a Brazilian flag and I gave her a rosary. I did not realize the impact of that brief exchange until I received an email from her long after my camino ended. She said she dreamed about me, and we were holding hands. Wow! In your loneliness, I hope there would be someone to keep you company, not necessarily to hold your hands or dream about you ☺. Buen camino for the rest of your life.
 
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Thanks so much for taking the time to give us this follow up post. It's great. Good for you and buen camino on the Coastal Route!
 

I've just realised, that where we live in Bangkok is the same!
 
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Robo said:
I've just realised, that where we live in Bangkok is the same!
Click to expand...
Yes...Many people on the planet do not have sidewalks and potable tap water and clean air. I have zero sympathy for the person who posted that. It would only be a good thing for them to stop whining and get out of their cushy bubble to experience how the conditions rest of the world has to live with - and does with a good deal more graciousness and acceptance than they do.
 

Me too. Couldn’t have said it better.
 

Ha ha. I’m in Bali right now, and also lived here from 2019-2021. As for smoking, I saw more cigarette smokers in Spain. Water is easily accessible and cheap, so I’m not sure what that’s about. And the incense-well, I guess that’s a personal preference. I love the incense. Balinese burn it so the smoke carries their prayers up to the spirits and ancestors.

Bali either loves you or she will show you the door. I find it similar to the Camino in many ways, in that both places force one to pay attention.
 
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Camino Way markers in Bronze
The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.
As the OP, I feel I have to respond here. With the benefit of hindsight, as I have now finished my “deluxe walking tour”, I can see why I would not have anything in common with people of your superior attitude! Rebekah commenting below implies you will only find out how “flexible, outgoing, and tough you are” by doing a full 800 K backpacking and staying in hostels, getting blisters. I totally disagree. First, I did Kilimanjaro, I’m a single parent and survived cancer, so I am tough. I have traveled to 112 countries, and I’ve learned many things along the way& somehow managed to cope, so I am flexible. I have lots of friends worldwide, have conducted hundreds of trials and public speaking for over 25 years as a lawyer, and have performed and competed in dance internationally, so I am outgoing.
Some of the comments and responses to my post have been downright rude, and would certainly discourage a less tough potential Pilgrim.
In paying attention to the kind and informative responses, I did learn, along the way, to get up earlier, and I certainly did talk with some people staying in accommodation that was busier. At the time I wrote the OP, I was a dozen kilometres from the nearest bar, staying with just one other person in accommodation where we had had a dispute, making it uncomfortable. I felt misinformed, which obviously was my bad for believing what you see in videos, or thinking other peoples’ experiences would be my own. I learned. But don’t tell me this can’t be a pleasurable and scenic walk. I’ve looked into a bunch of other routes, and I am all about scenery. I am a city person and I just didn’t really put my mind to the poo factor! Mea culpa, mea culpa. It was my very first time.
Some people need to learn to check their superiority at the door (to the albergue, hostel, hotel or campsite, whatever, you do you!)
 
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Glad you ended up having a good experience. As to the rest of your wall of text, i guess i'll just ignore that and we'll both be happier going our separate ways. Buen Camino.
 
The last two posts sum up very well something that I learned from the Camino. Where I come from we often impress one another with our accomplishments. I took a step forward on my life's path when I learned to leave this custom behind. I met so many kind souls on my Camino and we mostly discussed the really important issues such as: "do you wear one pair of socks or two?"

The last words of the previous post also sums it up very well: "Buen Camino."

We can learn from one another and we don't have to agree on everything. In the end, we wish each other well.

Buen Camino.
 
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