LIVE from the Camino FRANCÉS: Flies, spiders, isolation & roommates: not what I expected!

Liltravlr · Jun 22, 2023

Live from Camino, I did three years of research, this forum, YouTube, Facebook groups, etc., and there was only one mention of how many flies there are while walking. I guess it’s because of all the poop smells from the horses and cows and chickens. I would’ve bought a net. There was a huge spider in our very nice accommodation, report of bedbugs in another nice one, which was upsetting, and I did sign up to walk through small towns and countryside, but what is really surprising is people saying how crowded the Camino is this year! We literally passed five people on the whole first day, and yesterday maybe two. So I don’t know what they were talking about. One of the accommodations was supposed to pick us up when we called, they didn’t answer twice so I called a taxi, which turned out to be three times the price I was expecting, and the company we booked with will not reimburse us nor will the guest house, who said we should have called more times. We are all alone in the rural guest house with nothing to do, far from any town, rain, and roommate problems (whether to leave the TV, phone, and lights on when you go to bed, which I don’t like, snoring, expenses, etc.) I looked forward to this all during Covid and put a lot of time in, very sad and I just want to go home. I can’t even cancel and go to Barcelona or the Canaries because I won’t get any of my money back. Feeling very defeated & alone.

Kirkie · Jun 22, 2023

I am so sorry to read this post from you. What can I say? Just that, and I hope you will soon find that what is there for you will appear. Now you have posted, you are bound to get sympathy and maybe even advice. That way, not so alone, no?

BombayBill · Jun 22, 2023

What town are you in? Many of us can provide good advice to cheer you up. Some of it is based on your location along the trail.

I think some will tell you that overcoming these challenges will give you a sense of accomplishment. It’s difficult to see that in the moment but try to persevere and remember why you chose to do this.

trecile · Jun 22, 2023

I'm sorry that you've had a bad start to your Camino. Please do let us know where you are so that we can make suggestions to help you out.

Liltravlr · Jun 22, 2023

Thank you, I don’t want to say where I am, because it will indicate the guest house, and they are trying, as is the booking agent. I really thought there would be more people, to walk with slow like me and talk at dinner or even have a drink!

Liltravlr · Jun 22, 2023

trecile said:
I'm sorry that you've had a bad start to your Camino. Please do let us know where you are so that we can make suggestions to help you out.

Thank you. The next town should be bigger, and I will make an effort to go at least to a bar or something and meet someone.

grayland · Jun 22, 2023

The end is near....

Dani7 · Jun 22, 2023

I just finished my first Camino and it was the Frances. Like you I did years of research here, watched hundreds of videos of the Camino, gear, do’s and dont’s…you name it.

I’m more of an introvert but I did feel lonely at times having dinner by myself but not walking by myself. As you walk more you will meet people you see daily and develop some connections. It is inevitable because the Camino is such a human experience. Hang in there. Everyday will bring you a gift of joy and contentment. One step at a time. You got this.

Pilgrim9 · Jun 22, 2023

I too offer sympathy - and hope that you will persevere. Your physical fitness and acclimatization with respect to Camino-specific-activities will probably improve with distance walked and I predict that that will make each day a bit easier, although even the most experienced amongst us have good days and ones that are more difficult.

Another consideration is proper hydration and diet. Ensuring that you are properly hydrated all day, and with sufficient electrolytes in hot weather, and that you are getting a nutritionally-balanced diet, can help your body recover more quickly from its daily toil.

With respect to excessive solitude on the trail, there will be periods of isolation alternating with periods of almost-congestion. This occurs because everyone walks at a different pace. Fast walkers gradually overtake medium-speed walkers, and really-fast walkers overtake everyone. Sometimes everyone bunches up for a couple of kilometres, and then the bunch slowly spreads out again. These temporary en-route concentrations of people provide welcome opportunities to chat with others, but it is important to walk at your own pace. Trying to keep up with a walker who is even a little bit faster than the speed that you are comfortable with, is a recipe for exhaustion and injury.

Wishing you well on your pilgrimage.

Rickcrna · Jun 22, 2023

Sometimes reality doesn’t quite match up well with our expectations and anticipations. While initially disappointing, more often than not there are opportunities for pleasant, unexpected surprises and serendipity that the Camino experience seems to bring forth. With boredom, there’s an opportunity to experience oneself without distractions. Being with others including roommates brings an opportunity for social connection and negotiation. As others have advised, hang in there longer and see how your journey unfolds. Keep us in the loop.

Rick

good_old_shoes · Jun 22, 2023

I've never experienced many flies on the trail in about 6000km of Caminos, and was bitten by a spider exactly once in that time. So apparently you've got bad luck at the moment!

There was one gite in France that had lots of them which was annoying, but not the end of the world, as it was one night in two and a half months walking. There were many sheep in town, not much you can do against flies then. The friendly owner got us some liquor to make up for it, and we pilgrims had fun hunting the flies inside the building.

When walking in the countryside, bugs are to be expected. Even inside buildings, it's normal.

You talk about accommodation picking you up as well as a booking agent, which sounds as if you're staying off Camino on a prebooked tour? That can make it feel a bit lonely, I guess. If you stay in such places you probably also start walking later than most other pilgrims (breakfast is often quite late in pilgrim terms in such private accommodations) so the trail maybe feels more empty than it really is.

Maybe start walking very early (before sunrise) to meet up with the other pilgrims.

Or, be adventurous, ignore your bookings for once and check into a non-bookable pilgrim albergue (if you arrive early it should not be difficult to get a bed). Preferrably a parroquial one with communal dinner.

Most pilgrim-only albergues are quite cheap so it might be worth trying that for one night instead of a prebooked accommodation off the actual Camino. Won't be a big loss if it's not to your liking.

I have no idea where you are at the moment, but good company (other pilgrims as well as hospitaleros with the right mindset) can make all the difference when you're in a bad mood.

If you can tell a bit more detailed where you are at the moment or where you intend to walk to next, it would make it easier to recommend places to stay.

Wish you all the best and buen Camino!

dbier · Jun 22, 2023

Depending on how many resources you've used, you may remember reading that the first few day's challenges are physical, the second few day's challenges are mental, and the third and subsequent spiritual, with overlap. Sounds like you're an over-achiever - you went right to between sections 2 and 3 ;-)

In seriousness, though. We're sorry it's been so stressful, but also strongly encourage you to not give up. It will change, and hopefully for the better.

Former member 104756 · Jun 22, 2023

good_old_shoes said:
You talk about accommodation picking you up as well as a booking agent, which sounds as if you're staying off Camino on a prebooked tour? That can make it feel a bit lonely, I guess. If you stay in such places you probably also start walking later than most other pilgrims (breakfast is often quite late in pilgrim terms in such private accommodations) so the trail maybe feels more empty than it really is.

Maybe start walking very early (before sunrise) to meet up with the other pilgrims.

Or, be adventurous, ignore your bookings for once and check into a non-bookable pilgrim albergue (if you arrive early it should not be difficult to get a bed). Preferrably a parroquial one with communal dinner.

Most pilgrim-only albergues are quite cheap so it might be worth trying that for one night instead of a prebooked accommodation off the actual Camino. Won't be a big loss if it's not to your liking.

Hi @Liltravlr i think these comments and ideas from @good_old_shoes are well worth considering, even if at first it seems ‘scary’ to step out of what you’ve organised.

I recall from an earlier thread that you are walking Sarria to Santiago with your sister, with all accommodation prebooked by a company ? Usually there would be many others walking this part of the Camino Frances.

Wishing you well whatever you decide

Bradypus · Jun 22, 2023

Pelerina said:
I recall from an earlier thread that you are walking Sarria to Santiago with your sister, had pre booked your accommodation? Usually there would be many others walking this part of the Camino Frances.

There were at least 1934 Compostelas issued today. So far this year about half of all Compostelas went to people who had walked at least the final 100km of the Camino Frances. So there must be a few other walkers out there at the moment!

Pathfinder075 · Jun 22, 2023

The camino is tough. Physically, mentally, emotionally, psychologically and never let anyone tell you otherwise. You will get out of it what you put into it.

I second @good_old_shoes suggestion. Check into an albergue and socialise. The camino isn't about staying in out of the way accommodation, unless you prefer to be solo. Some do, most don't.

But it is what you make of it. Also not overplanning it is a good suggestion. Do the key parts, so square away things that are criticial, ignore things like accommodation. The camino provides.

If you are on the Sarria, final 100km, then I'm surprised it's quiet, given the time of year. But if the weather is bad, that might explain it a little. But even when it rained on some of the sections I walked, there was still a steady stream of people. Saying that I like to walk for more than 6 hours a day, so i often walk alone in the late afternoon and early evening. You get used to it.

I can't really give you any specific advice. Everyone else has pretty much suggested it. If you do another one, don't book accommodation, because you are basically putting a big brick wall between you and the other pilgrims. The camino is as much about the social aspect as it is the other aspects.

DoughnutANZ · Jun 22, 2023

Liltravlr said:
Feeling very defeated & alone

I can only talk about my own times when I have felt like this because that is all I know.

Mostly, I fought these feelings, trying to make them go away. That doesn't work very well for me. Or I try to be busy, that usually just hides it for a while.

Occasionally, I accept these feelings and just feel them, nothing else. What happens for me in these cases is slowly, slowly, slowly new things start opening up for me. There is no magical sky rocket just quietly being with myself. Within the acceptance there is a path, if you choose to take it.

trecile · Jun 22, 2023

Liltravlr said:
Thank you, I don’t want to say where I am, because it will indicate the guest house, and they are trying, as is the booking agent. I really thought there would be more people, to walk with slow like me and talk at dinner or even have a drink!

You don't have to say exactly where you are, but generally on which part of the Camino

grayland · Jun 22, 2023

trecile said:
You don't have to say exactly where you are, but generally on which part of the Camino

I think posts in earlier threads indicate that the OP has started from Sarria....which makes it surprising that she is encountering few pilgrims.

KiwiJohn · Jun 22, 2023

Liltravlr said:
Live from Camino, I did three years of research, this forum, YouTube, Facebook groups, etc., and there was only one mention of how many flies there are while walking. I guess it’s because of all the poop smells from the horses and cows and chickens. I would’ve bought a net. There was a huge spider in our very nice accommodation, report of bedbugs in another nice one, which was upsetting, and I did sign up to walk through small town soon countryside, but what is really surprising is people saying how crowded the Camino is this year! We literally passed five people on the whole first day, and yesterday maybe two. So I don’t know what they were talking about. One of the accommodations was supposed to pick us up when we called, they didn’t answer twice so I called a taxi, which turned out to be three times the price I was expecting, and the company we booked with will not reimburse us nor will the guest house, who said we should have called more times. We are all alone in the rural guest house with nothing to do, far from any town, rain, and roommate problems (whether to leave the TV, phone, and lights on when you go to bed, which I don’t like, snoring, expenses, etc.) I looked forward to this all during Covid and put a lot of time in, very sad and I just want to go home. I can’t even cancel and go to Barcelona or the Canaries because I won’t get any of my money back. Feeling very defeated & alone.

Stay with it. Your worries will evaporate once you find your fellow perigrinos to accompany you.
Kia Kaha ( Be strong in Maori ).
Buen Camino!

Liltravlr · Jun 22, 2023

Rickcrna said:
Sometimes reality doesn’t quite match up well with our expectations and anticipations. While initially disappointing, more often than not there are opportunities for pleasant, unexpected surprises and serendipity that the Camino experience seems to bring forth. With boredom, there’s an opportunity to experience oneself without distractions. Being with others including roommates brings an opportunity for social connection and negotiation. As others have advised, hang in there longer and see how your journey unfolds. Keep us in the loop.

Rick

Thank you

VNwalking · Jun 22, 2023

Hang in there @Liltravlr !

This is the real Camino, not the imagined one. And one thing about reality is that it doesn't care one bit about our little wants and expectations. So parking those will free you up to see the beauty around you.

One thing that also helps is to use your distress as a way to connect with whomever might be in the same boat in front or behind you someplace. And there will be many! You are physically alone but not really alone.

And practically...

Liltravlr said:
We literally passed five people on the whole first day, and yesterday maybe two. So I don’t know what they were talking about.

Start earlier perhaps? Fewer flies, more company...

WalkinRon · Jun 23, 2023

Please keep us updated! This forum is the place to come with your questions and even when you don't have a question, come here when you just need to get something off your chest!

I'm also from a big city on the West Coast...

good_old_shoes said:
I've never experienced many flies on the trail in about 6000km of Caminos...

Well, where I come from one fly is too many! I too was surprised by the number of "roommates" I had flying around in my room, and in the bars and cafes, and on the trail. But I soon realized that this was considered normal on this part of the Camino and I just accepted it like everyone else.

I'd say 90% of the time that I had a before dinner drink in my hotel or albergue I drank alone and enjoyed the quiet. However, one time I ordered my drink and a pair of lovely Irish lady pilgrims appeared and one said: "Whiskey? A man after my own heart! We'll have the same!" (As the saying goes: "Hilarity ensued").

In general, I found that the Camino is walking over distances while, at the same time, progressing--step by step--along life's journey. I also had a lot of expectations and worked hard to free myself. I was happiest when I concentrated on being thankful for unexpected pleasures.

Buen Camino!

Pathfinder075 · Jun 23, 2023

Liltravlr said:
but what is really surprising is people saying how crowded the Camino is this year! We literally passed five people on the whole first day, and yesterday maybe two.

So to expand on what @VNwalking mentioned.

Most pilgrims walk between 5-6am and 1-2pm. Basically they get up early and are out the door walking while it's cool. When it starts to warm up they hunker down at the next albergue.

Not everyone does this. Some of us walk all day and finish in the evening.

So to meet people you need to be on Camino at 6-7am everyday. You will find some people who walk from 8am, but most are gone at daybreak, or in later months, even in the dark.

So for example, on my first Camino I walked out of the monastery albergue in Sarria at 6am and finished at the Gonzar albergue at 7pm with an hour for lunch in Portomarin. At 6am it was pitch black and i was using a head torch and almost got run over by the train on the tracks before the steep forest path. Fun times. Most people I talked to at the monastery albergue finished the day at Portomarin. The next day I set off at 7am and I was one of the last to leave.

good_old_shoes · Jun 23, 2023

When I walked Sarria-Santiago last year, there was a giant pilgrim tsunami rolling in the morning, starting from ~5-6am. Since I walked longer days, I noticed that later in the day you met almost no other pilgrims.

If you only walked in the early morning you'd have thought it's awfully overcrowded (it truly was).

If you walked only in the afternoon, you'd have thought "what a nice quiet trail" (it truly was).

Even many businesses closed in the afternoon and were almost empty, and it became difficult to find a place to get a cold drink, while in the morning you had to queue almost an hour for a coffee in some places, like in an overcrowded theme park.

Felt like two totally different walks, two totally different worlds, all within a few hours difference.

So that's really something to consider.

I hope you still find what you were looking for, Liltravlr. If not on this Camino, maybe on another one. Wish you all the best. Ultreia!

Lexicos · Jun 23, 2023

I’ve walked solo and it is much harder than walking with company or a partner. I sympathise. I got over it by varying my start times, varying my pace, stopping in the same places as my fellow pilgrims and pushing myself to talk with others whenever possible. Flies and bugs etc. don’t bother me at all so can’t help you there Liltravir. It can get lonesome some days, however, I found that in less than two weeks I’d made friends and then groups of friends as time went by. I still have those friends, one year later. The Camino is a challenge, it can be tough and physically hard and at times very uncomfortable but if you can try to relax, take heart and know that it does get better and easier with each day. Forget what expectations you had. Just go with each day and what it brings and thank your lucky stars you’re not at home sitting in front of a TV watching the adventures of others. This is your adventure. Live it. Love it. I guarantee you’ll have many fond memories for a long time after. Take a deep breath, think Zen and relax. Remember, every pilgrim is facing their own challenges. You’re not alone.
Buen Camino Pilgrim.

Robo · Jun 23, 2023

Liltravlr said:
Live from Camino, I did three years of research, this forum, YouTube, Facebook groups, etc., and there was only one mention of how many flies there are while walking. I guess it’s because of all the poop smells from the horses and cows and chickens. I would’ve bought a net. There was a huge spider in our very nice accommodation, report of bedbugs in another nice one, which was upsetting, and I did sign up to walk through small town soon countryside, but what is really surprising is people saying how crowded the Camino is this year! We literally passed five people on the whole first day, and yesterday maybe two. So I don’t know what they were talking about. One of the accommodations was supposed to pick us up when we called, they didn’t answer twice so I called a taxi, which turned out to be three times the price I was expecting, and the company we booked with will not reimburse us nor will the guest house, who said we should have called more times. We are all alone in the rural guest house with nothing to do, far from any town, rain, and roommate problems (whether to leave the TV, phone, and lights on when you go to bed, which I don’t like, snoring, expenses, etc.) I looked forward to this all during Covid and put a lot of time in, very sad and I just want to go home. I can’t even cancel and go to Barcelona or the Canaries because I won’t get any of my money back. Feeling very defeated & alone.

Sorry to hear you are having a bad time.
But there is lots of good advice already provided on this thread.
Sadly when you book via a tour company you can end up in some out of the way places and a bit isolated.
But hopefully things will start to look up for you......

Camino Chrissy · Jun 23, 2023

Lexicos said:
Flies and bugs etc. don’t bother me at all so can’t help you there

Flies and bugs buzzing around can be annoying to me, but I don't get seriously bitten. On many travels with my sister, she would always be nearly "eaten alive" with bites and welts up and down her arms and legs, while I could count my bites on one hand.
I think the same is true for bedbugs; people seem to react to them differently for whatever reason.

MassNative · Jun 23, 2023

We walked last fall, right after all the fields had been "manured".

The flies were everywhere. I guess I didn't mention them is because after a week or so, I just stopped noticing them. Towards the end, there are few tilled fields, so the flies went away.

We only had one town where we felt isolated, in a small hostel, with nothing open after 2 PM. Only the one albergue down the road opened for dinner. We hit the road super early next morning and had breakfast 6k later.

Things will get better....

Gringazolana · Jun 23, 2023

I understand what you are saying, having just finished the Sarria to Santiago route 3 weeks ago. Yes, at the beginning I dealt with lots of feelings of loneliness and frustrations. Are you journaling? Even writing things down helps to get them out. Yes, the crowds will show up in bunches, the closer you get to the end. Yes, there are intense days and some boring ones where you have to find reserves of inner strength. Yes, there is a lot of poop! Keep on keeping on. You can do it, and you will do it!

t2andreo · Jun 23, 2023

When I want company for a meal, I approach a table and introduce myself: Good afternoon, my name is Tomás. I am walking the Camino too. May I join you for a meal?

I have never been refused.

If I want companionship or camaraderie on any day, I approach a group of people leaving the same place I am. I bid them "Buenas Dias" and / or "Buen Camino." I ask if they speak English. Then I introduce myself, and ask if they mind if I 'tag along?" I might add that I am just looking for a fellow pilgrim to exchange pleasantries with, and share the experience.

Again, I have never been refused.

If the people you ask to join say some version of "no," merely say thank you, and bid them a good evening, or buen camino as the situation calls for. Then go about your way.

I have found that many people do not know how to 'break the ice' so to speak. You would be surprised - or not - by how many pilgrims wish someone would speak to them. I think the OP reflects this sentiment.

Many decades ago, I learned a life-lesson when trying to ask pretty young girls on a date - I was in high school at the time - so this was more than 50 years ago. The lesson goes like this: "If you never ask, the answer is ALWAYS 'no.' Whereas if you do ask, you have a 50-50 chance of receiving a 'yes' answer."

Once I realized that, the number, frequency and quality of my dating improved markedly. Just sayin. I have never forgotten that lesson, and some 10 years later, it helped me meet and get to know my wife of 44 years. If you do not ask, you will never know.

So, ASK.

Hope this helps.

Tom

Liltravlr · Jun 23, 2023

You figure fe

VNwalking said:
Hang in there @Liltravlr !

This is the real Camino, not the imagined one. And one thing about reality is that it doesn't care one bit about our little wants and expectations. So parking those will free you up to see the beauty around you.

One thing that also helps is to use your distress as a way to connect with whomever might be in the same boat in front or behind you someplace. And there will be many! You are physically alone but not really alone.

And practically...

Start earlier perhaps? Fewer flies, more company...

Less flies in early morning? Ok!

Liltravlr · Jun 23, 2023

t2andreo said:
When I want company for a meal, I approach a table and introduce myself: Good afternoon, my name is Tomás. I am walking the Camino too. May I join you for a meal?

I have never been refused.

If I want companionship or camaraderie on any day, I approach a group of people leaving the same place I am. I bid them "Buenas Dias" and / or "Buen Camino." I ask if they speak English. Then I introduce myself, and ask if they mind if I 'tag along?" I might add that I am just looking for a fellow pilgrim to exchange pleasantries with, and share the experience.

Again, I have never been refused.

If the people you ask to join say some version of "no," merely say thank you, and bid them a good evening, or buen camino as the situation calls for. Then go about your way.

I have found that many people do not know how to 'break the ice' so to speak. You would be surprised - or not - by how many pilgrims wish someone would speak to them. I think the OP reflects this sentiment.

Many decades ago, I learned a life-lesson when trying to ask pretty young girls on a date - I was in high school at the time - so this was more than 50 years ago. The lesson goes like this: "If you never ask, the answer is ALWAYS 'no.' Whereas if you do ask, you have a 50-50 chance of receiving a 'yes' answer."

Once I realized that, the number, frequency and quality of my dating improved markedly. Just sayin. I have never forgotten that lesson, and some 10 years later, it helped me meet and get to know my wife of 44 years. If you do not ask, you will never know.

So, ASK.

Hope this helps.

Tom

Thank you. When traveling by myself, I have rarely been lonely. It was more a product of being with the same person 24/7 I am not used to. I may book some single rooms.

Liltravlr · Jun 23, 2023

Gringazolana said:
I understand what you are saying, having just finished the Sarria to Santiago route 3 weeks ago. Yes, at the beginning I dealt with lots of feelings of loneliness and frustrations. Are you journaling? Even writing things down helps to get them out. Yes, the crowds will show up in bunches, the closer you get to the end. Yes, there are intense days and some boring ones where you have to find reserves of inner strength. Yes, there is a lot of poop! Keep on keeping on. You can do it, and you will do it!

I do diarize by dictating on my phone for later trip reports on FB groups. That was part of the problem, my roomie said, “you are always on your phone!”, which is not true because there is lots of time with no wifi. Part of what irked me were comments I felt were not true.

Liltravlr · Jun 23, 2023

Camino Chrissy said:
Flies and bugs buzzing around can be annoying to me, but I don't get seriously bitten. On many travels with my sister, she would always be nearly "eaten alive" with bites and welts up and down her arms and legs, while I could count my bites on one hand.
I think the same is true for bedbugs; people seem to react to them differently for whatever reason.

Woke up at 3am due to “tickling” feeling & had 3 spiders in my bed. I know we are in nature, but not in my bed, please!

Liltravlr · Jun 23, 2023

Lexicos said:
I’ve walked solo and it is much harder than walking with company or a partner. I sympathise. I got over it by varying my start times, varying my pace, stopping in the same places as my fellow pilgrims and pushing myself to talk with others whenever possible. Flies and bugs etc. don’t bother me at all so can’t help you there Liltravir. It can get lonesome some days, however, I found that in less than two weeks I’d made friends and then groups of friends as time went by. I still have those friends, one year later. The Camino is a challenge, it can be tough and physically hard and at times very uncomfortable but if you can try to relax, take heart and know that it does get better and easier with each day. Forget what expectations you had. Just go with each day and what it brings and thank your lucky stars you’re not at home sitting in front of a TV watching the adventures of others. This is your adventure. Live it. Love it. I guarantee you’ll have many fond memories for a long time after. Take a deep breath, think Zen and relax. Remember, every pilgrim is facing their own challenges. You’re not alone.
Buen Camino Pilgrim.

Thank you, today was a better day, the walk zipped by. Many more walkers.

Liltravlr · Jun 23, 2023

WalkinRon said:
Please keep us updated! This forum is the place to come with your questions and even when you don't have a question, come here when you just need to get something off your chest!

I'm also from a big city on the West Coast...

Well, where I come from one fly is too many! I too was surprised by the number of "roommates" I had flying around in my room, and in the bars and cafes, and on the trail. But I soon realized that this was considered normal on this part of the Camino and I just accepted it like everyone else.

I'd say 90% of the time that I had a before dinner drink in my hotel or albergue I drank alone and enjoyed the quiet. However, one time I ordered my drink and a pair of lovely Irish lady pilgrims appeared and one said: "Whiskey? A man after my own heart! We'll have the same!" (As the saying goes: "Hilarity ensued").

In general, I found that the Camino is walking over distances while, at the same time, progressing--step by step--along life's journey. I also had a lot of expectations and worked hard to free myself. I was happiest when I concentrated on being thankful for unexpected pleasures.

Buen Camino!

Thanks! I am a city girl & doing the Camino to see country town so I shouldn’t complain about quiet & flies! So different from my life back home.

Liltravlr · Jun 23, 2023

good_old_shoes said:
I've never experienced many flies on the trail in about 6000km of Caminos, and was bitten by a spider exactly once in that time. So apparently you've got bad luck at the moment!

There was one gite in France that had lots of them which was annoying, but not the end of the world, as it was one night in two and a half months walking. There were many sheep in town, not much you can do against flies then. The friendly owner got us some liquor to make up for it, and we pilgrims had fun hunting the flies inside the building.

When walking in the countryside, bugs are to be expected. Even inside buildings, it's normal.

You talk about accommodation picking you up as well as a booking agent, which sounds as if you're staying off Camino on a prebooked tour? That can make it feel a bit lonely, I guess. If you stay in such places you probably also start walking later than most other pilgrims (breakfast is often quite late in pilgrim terms in such private accommodations) so the trail maybe feels more empty than it really is.

Maybe start walking very early (before sunrise) to meet up with the other pilgrims.

Or, be adventurous, ignore your bookings for once and check into a non-bookable pilgrim albergue (if you arrive early it should not be difficult to get a bed). Preferrably a parroquial one with communal dinner.

Most pilgrim-only albergues are quite cheap so it might be worth trying that for one night instead of a prebooked accommodation off the actual Camino. Won't be a big loss if it's not to your liking.

I have no idea where you are at the moment, but good company (other pilgrims as well as hospitaleros with the right mindset) can make all the difference when you're in a bad mood.

If you can tell a bit more detailed where you are at the moment or where you intend to walk to next, it would make it easier to recommend places to stay.

Wish you all the best and buen Camino!

Yes, exactly! In a non-tour booking atm in Palas de Rey. Looking forward to hitting a bar tonight, actually putting on some makeup & different shoes, & must be out before 9, no meals included so we’ll see!

Liltravlr · Jun 23, 2023

trecile said:
You don't have to say exactly where you are, but generally on which part of the Camino

Near Ventas de Narón

T0M · Jun 23, 2023

Do you mean to say that you prebooked all your lodging? I am interested to know what prompted this decision.

I hope you find the strength to persevere. Giving up will only compound a negative perspective when you look back on your adventure.

As with the others, I am anxious to know how you do.

Bien Camino

Snowflake5090 · Jun 23, 2023

Liltravlr said:
Live from Camino, I did three years of research, this forum, YouTube, Facebook groups, etc., and there was only one mention of how many flies there are while walking. I guess it’s because of all the poop smells from the horses and cows and chickens. I would’ve bought a net. There was a huge spider in our very nice accommodation, report of bedbugs in another nice one, which was upsetting, and I did sign up to walk through small town soon countryside, but what is really surprising is people saying how crowded the Camino is this year! We literally passed five people on the whole first day, and yesterday maybe two. So I don’t know what they were talking about. One of the accommodations was supposed to pick us up when we called, they didn’t answer twice so I called a taxi, which turned out to be three times the price I was expecting, and the company we booked with will not reimburse us nor will the guest house, who said we should have called more times. We are all alone in the rural guest house with nothing to do, far from any town, rain, and roommate problems (whether to leave the TV, phone, and lights on when you go to bed, which I don’t like, snoring, expenses, etc.) I looked forward to this all during Covid and put a lot of time in, very sad and I just want to go home. I can’t even cancel and go to Barcelona or the Canaries because I won’t get any of my money back. Feeling very defeated & alone.

Sometimes I think we read so much about the Camino that are expectations are too high, then when it doesn’t happen like we thought it would we come down to earth with a big bump! I expected to have this big Camino family when I walked the Frances last year, when in fact I spent many days walking alone, eating alone and generally often feeling quite sad. However don’t despair, you will meet people along the way who will lift your spirits and make you smile again and these people will end up being part of your life forever. A year on and I still chat to my Camino friends, not everyday, but I know they are there and we’re already talking about meeting up to do another Camino. Please don’t give up, the Camino will provide.

Liltravlr · Jun 23, 2023

Pelerina said:
Hi @Liltravlr i think these comments and ideas from @good_old_shoes are well worth considering, even if at first it seems ‘scary’ to step out of what you’ve organised.

I recall from an earlier thread that you are walking Sarria to Santiago with your sister, with all accommodation prebooked by a company ? Usually there would be many others walking this part of the Camino Frances.

Wishing you well whatever you decide

Yes & yes. I gather it’s because we start walking so late (after 10), we like to chill with coffee, read paper, because at home we have to be up early with demanding jobs & family.

Liltravlr · Jun 23, 2023

T0M said:
Do you mean to say that you prebooked all your lodging? I am interested to know what prompted this decision.

I hope you find the strength to persevere. Giving up will only compound a negative perspective when you look back on your adventure.

As with the others, I am anxious to know how you do.

Bien Camino

Ah, pre-booked because I always travel that way. My daughter would panic if she didn’t have my plans in advance. I am super slow & didn’t want to risk not getting a bed in June.

ThomasFromColorado · Jun 23, 2023

Liltravlr said:
Live from Camino, I did three years of research, this forum, YouTube, Facebook groups, etc., and there was only one mention of how many flies there are while walking. I guess it’s because of all the poop smells from the horses and cows and chickens. I would’ve bought a net. There was a huge spider in our very nice accommodation, report of bedbugs in another nice one, which was upsetting, and I did sign up to walk through small town soon countryside, but what is really surprising is people saying how crowded the Camino is this year! We literally passed five people on the whole first day, and yesterday maybe two. So I don’t know what they were talking about. One of the accommodations was supposed to pick us up when we called, they didn’t answer twice so I called a taxi, which turned out to be three times the price I was expecting, and the company we booked with will not reimburse us nor will the guest house, who said we should have called more times. We are all alone in the rural guest house with nothing to do, far from any town, rain, and roommate problems (whether to leave the TV, phone, and lights on when you go to bed, which I don’t like, snoring, expenses, etc.) I looked forward to this all during Covid and put a lot of time in, very sad and I just want to go home. I can’t even cancel and go to Barcelona or the Canaries because I won’t get any of my money back. Feeling very defeated & alone.

Tourists demand, pilgrims thank.

Liltravlr · Jun 23, 2023

Pathfinder075 said:
The camino is tough. Physically, mentally, emotionally, psychologically and never let anyone tell you otherwise. You will get out of it what you put into it.

I second @good_old_shoes suggestion. Check into an albergue and socialise. The camino isn't about staying in out of the way accommodation, unless you prefer to be solo. Some do, most don't.

But it is what you make of it. Also not overplanning it is a good suggestion. Do the key parts, so square away things that are criticial, ignore things like accommodation. The camino provides.

If you are on the Sarria, final 100km, then I'm surprised it's quiet, given the time of year. But if the weather is bad, that might explain it a little. But even when it rained on some of the sections I walked, there was still a steady stream of people. Saying that I like to walk for more than 6 hours a day, so i often walk alone in the late afternoon and early evening. You get used to it.

I can't really give you any specific advice. Everyone else has pretty much suggested it. If you do another one, don't book accommodation, because you are basically putting a big brick wall between you and the other pilgrims. The camino is as much about the social aspect as it is the other aspects.

I see now. Yes on last 100k, but few people as we start late. I can’t see not booking ahead because I cannot imagine not knowing where I was sleeping that night, it’s just not me. And I brought too much stuff & transporting it.

Liltravlr · Jun 23, 2023

Bradypus said:
There were at least 1934 Compostelas issued today. So far this year about half of all Compostelas went to people who had walked at least the final 100km of the Camino Frances. So there must be a few other walkers out there at the moment!

They must be early risers. This walk counts as my vacation, so I can’t get up early on vacation or it’s like work, me entiendes?

trecile · Jun 23, 2023

Liltravlr said:
Looking forward to hitting a bar tonight, actually putting on some makeup

Please, not too much makeup. Maybe just mascara and lip gloss. Most of the other female pilgrims will be bare faced.

I can't imagine starting to walk at 10. I want to finish the majority of my walking while it's still reasonably cool.

ANGLICO1 · Jun 23, 2023

Liltravlr said:
Live from Camino, I did three years of research, this forum, YouTube, Facebook groups, etc., and there was only one mention of how many flies there are while walking. I guess it’s because of all the poop smells from the horses and cows and chickens. I would’ve bought a net. There was a huge spider in our very nice accommodation, report of bedbugs in another nice one, which was upsetting, and I did sign up to walk through small town soon countryside, but what is really surprising is people saying how crowded the Camino is this year! We literally passed five people on the whole first day, and yesterday maybe two. So I don’t know what they were talking about. One of the accommodations was supposed to pick us up when we called, they didn’t answer twice so I called a taxi, which turned out to be three times the price I was expecting, and the company we booked with will not reimburse us nor will the guest house, who said we should have called more times. We are all alone in the rural guest house with nothing to do, far from any town, rain, and roommate problems (whether to leave the TV, phone, and lights on when you go to bed, which I don’t like, snoring, expenses, etc.) I looked forward to this all during Covid and put a lot of time in, very sad and I just want to go home. I can’t even cancel and go to Barcelona or the Canaries because I won’t get any of my money back. Feeling very defeated & alone.

Keep moving forward. Take these experiences bunch them up with all your past experiences and reconcile them. You are doing great cuz you are already there on the Camino. Open yourself up to all your experiences you wont regret it..

T0M · Jun 23, 2023

During your three years of research, did someone reccomend this camino style? I've read about group tours where all lodging is planned, but not quite what you have designed. Most pilgrims don't spend their mornings sipping coffee and reading the paper.

Your insight later will be of value to others.

If you are thinking of giving up, I have a last-ditch suggestion: Since you have already paid for the lodging ahead of you, perhaps you should hitch-hike or taxi or uber to your destinations and be more like a tourist.

walkingstu · Jun 23, 2023

Don't give up. The Camino is a great teacher, you will come out richer if you stay.

auburnfive · Jun 23, 2023

Between the lines, I see that spending all those hours with your roomie is also part of the issue. Also, she is not happy when you “ tune out” with your phone. One suggestion is to purposely separate from her for some times ( I’d like to do some solo contemplation as I walk for a bit- I’ll meet you on ahead for coffee in___.). other pilgrims may be more inclined to chat with a solo pilgrim rather than a duo.
Advice I’ve given before, even if you go with a tour company, do not have dinners included, it’s way too restrictive.

John Crawford Howell · Jun 23, 2023

On May 31, 2017, I stayed in Gonzar, a tad out of the way place east of Palos de Rei. The windows in my room opened onto a barnyard adjacent to and below my quarters. There were horses and cows aplenty doing what horses and cows do—just hanging out on a lazy afternoon with their duck and chicken pals. They were oblivious to me. I placed my trail shoes on the window sill to let them dry in the sun while I went down to the common area for snacks, beer, and dinner. When I came back to my room, approximately 50 squadrons of black flies greeted me. Yikes! This is going to be fun, I recall thinking at the time. I rolled a bath towel and played my best game of "shoo fly, don't bother me!" After 45 minutes of Quixote-like tilting at windmills, I dispatched them all from my room then closed the hallway door and the windows. However, there was one fly that wasn't going anywhere (probably the (over)lord of the flies). It stayed in the room all night to torment me. Such is life on the Camino—all part of the journey.

Kirkie · Jun 23, 2023

Liltravlr said:
They must be early risers. This walk counts as my vacation, so I can’t get up early on vacation or it’s like work, me entiendes?

Frankly, no. But it is how you choose to live your camino.

Clairejruf · Jun 23, 2023

Liltravlr said:
Live from Camino, I did three years of research, this forum, YouTube, Facebook groups, etc., and there was only one mention of how many flies there are while walking. I guess it’s because of all the poop smells from the horses and cows and chickens. I would’ve bought a net. There was a huge spider in our very nice accommodation, report of bedbugs in another nice one, which was upsetting, and I did sign up to walk through small town soon countryside, but what is really surprising is people saying how crowded the Camino is this year! We literally passed five people on the whole first day, and yesterday maybe two. So I don’t know what they were talking about. One of the accommodations was supposed to pick us up when we called, they didn’t answer twice so I called a taxi, which turned out to be three times the price I was expecting, and the company we booked with will not reimburse us nor will the guest house, who said we should have called more times. We are all alone in the rural guest house with nothing to do, far from any town, rain, and roommate problems (whether to leave the TV, phone, and lights on when you go to bed, which I don’t like, snoring, expenses, etc.) I looked forward to this all during Covid and put a lot of time in, very sad and I just want to go home. I can’t even cancel and go to Barcelona or the Canaries because I won’t get any of my money back. Feeling very defeated & alone.

I too am sorry that the Camino is not living up to your expectations at the moment. But that will likely change and I hope that you will post again and share your positive experiences because I’m sure you have them too. And probably already have.
I’ve found the Camino is like life, we can plan and have expectations but life has other ideas and we are surprised with things we didn’t expect. Some so much better than we could have imagined and some much worse.
How we react to it all is the key to happiness in my opinion.
I along myself to feel my disappointment, loneliness, irritability, anger, whatever, but not for too long. After a bit, (after a good nights sleep?), I move back into focusing on the good and being grateful.

I think you will get the this place too because I believe the Camino is magical and Camino angels may appear or a sunset or something else that will lift your spirits again. Buen Camino!

C clearly · Jun 23, 2023

Liltravlr said:
This walk counts as my vacation, so I can’t get up early on vacation or it’s like work

Perhaps this is the expectation (that you still seem to have) that is in conflict with the reality of a Camino. It is not a "vacation" in the normal sense, although it is a change from the normal work routine. Some of these issues and expectations were discussed in your first forum thread from 2019.

I am glad to read that your experience is improving. This often happens with something new - at first we are anxious and trying to get oriented to the experience, and once we learn the routine, we can relax and enjoy it. Not everything is enjoyable, but if you stick with it, I'm sure you'll get satisfaction from completing the challenge and you will have many interesting stories to tell! Whether you will become a "repeat offender" or not is yet to be seen!

Please keep posting to let us know how it is going.

Pathfinder075 · Jun 23, 2023

Camino is a pilgrimage, not a holiday, as much as people a late seem to treat it that way.

I am also one of those that doesn't believe that walking 100km is a true pilgrimage. Pligrims of old would have walked long distances to get to Santiago. There was no magical teleporter to take them to 100km from the end. If you wanted to get to the end you started from the start, wherever that might be.

If you want to walk and treat it as a holiday, there are many GR routes throughout Europe. But walking and trekking as a whole generally requires a person to get out of bed before 9am and make a commitment. Maybe try a beach holiday next time?

Robo · Jun 23, 2023

Liltravlr said:
They must be early risers. This walk counts as my vacation, so I can’t get up early on vacation or it’s like work, me entiendes?

Ahh. Therein lies one of your challenges.
Most Pilgrims will be on the road by 8 am or earlier.
It's a combination of accommodation wanting them out, communal living waking you up, avoiding the hot part of the day etc etc.

Leaving at 9-10am (I have done that a few times) can mean you often won't see many people.
They are all half way into the days walk by then......

On my recent Camino (another route) I often started walking before dawn. 6:30 - 7:00 am.
Mainly so that I could finish walking before it got hot.
But I came to love that part of the day. Watching the sunrise is magical.
But I was usually in bed asleep by 9 pm........

It's just a different rhythm on Camino

Bradypus · Jun 24, 2023

Robo said:
Leaving at 9-10am (I have done that a few times) will mean you often won't see many people.
They are all half way into the days walk by then....

There were 2928 arrivals at the pilgrim office today. Going by recent trends nearly half of those will have walked the Frances. If you are on the way between Sarria and Santiago earlier in the day you should have plenty of company!

Robo · Jun 24, 2023

Bradypus said:
There were 2928 arrivals at the pilgrim office today. Going by recent trends nearly half of those will have walked the Frances. If you are on the way between Sarria and Santiago earlier in the day you should have plenty of company!

Holy Moly! That must be a record.........
I was there late last month with about 1,500 / day arriving and that seemed a lot...........

Bradypus · Jun 24, 2023

Robo said:
Holy Moly! That must be a record.........
I was there earlier this month with about 1,500 / day arriving and that seemed a lot...........

A big day but not a record by any means. On one particularly insane day last summer the pilgrim office issued 4,978 Compostelas!

Camino Chrissy · Jun 24, 2023

Bradypus said:
A big day but not a record by any means. On one particularly insane day last summer the pilgrim office issued 4,978 Compostelas!

I have read on the forum recently that spring and fall are becoming the busiest months for walking, and are overtaking the numbers of Compostelas issued in summer, but this figure has me confused if it is true, or not.

Robo · Jun 24, 2023

Bradypus said:
A big day but not a record by any means. On one particularly insane day last summer the pilgrim office issued 4,978 Compostelas!

It's good that the new automated system in the Pilgrim's Office is working well!
5-10 minute process......

Bradypus · Jun 24, 2023

@Camino Chrissy There were special circumstances behind the 4,978 record day. A massive European Catholic youth gathering in town at the time. But days when the total went over 3,000 were not that uncommon last year. I find that astonishing as there were well under 5,000 in the entire year of my first Camino. Gobsmacked to see that number passed on a single day!

Bradypus · Jun 24, 2023

@Camino Chrissy The peak period for arrivals in Santiago is July and August. Mostly people walking short Caminos and mainly from Sarria. But spring and autumn are the peak periods for people leaving SJPDP to walk a longer Camino.

Robo · Jun 24, 2023

Robo said:
Ahh. Therein lies one of your challenges.
Most Pilgrims will be on the road by 8 am or earlier.
It's a combination of accommodation wanting them out, communal living waking you up, avoiding the hot part of the day etc etc.

Leaving at 9-10am (I have done that a few times) can mean you often won't see many people.
They are all half way into the days walk by then......

On my recent Camino (another route) I often started walking before dawn. 6:30 - 7:00 am.
Mainly so that I could finish walking before it got hot.
But I came to love that part of the day. Watching the sunrise is magical.
But I was usually in bed asleep by 9 pm........

It's just a different rhythm on Camino

@Liltravlr Just an afterthought.

Not meant to be judgemental or anything.......

The manner in which you are walking. Time of day, accommodation types and locations, everything pre-booked. All quite understandable, as you see this as a 'vacation'.

And using the term I used above, you are probably in a different rhythm to many, if not most others.

That might be leading you to feel that you are an observer of a Pilgrimage, rather than a participant....

As an example, on my most recent Camino that I finished a month ago (my fourth), I wanted to broaden my Camino experience. On all my previous Caminos, about 100 nights, I had used private accommodation only.

Many were saying to me here, that I was missing out on a valuable part of the Camino experience. Namely staying in shared accommodation. The sense of community, communal meals etc etc.

I was very happy with my Caminos using private accommodation, but I wanted to see what the Albergue experience was all about. So I tried it. Out of 60 days on that Camino, I stayed in Albergues about 15 nights I think. I wanted to give them a 'good shot'.

So I tried a combination of Donativo, private, municipal. And it was good. I enjoyed the experience. Being a very light sleeper, I still prefer mainly private accommodation, but mixing it up was really good.

But I stayed in some great Albergues, met wonderful people, had some nice communal meals.......
I would certainly use Albergues again without hesitation.

Another Example. Like you, I was always a bit of a late starter. Though not quite that late! I would be on the road between 7:30 - 9:00 am. I was staying in private accommodation, so there was no rush to get out before a certain time, often breakfast wasn't served till 8:00 am. I wasn't walking long distances, and I had my next night booked, so there was no rush. (I book one night ahead normally)

As a result, I would often have the solitude on the trail that I sought. This was 3 times on the Camino Frances. I would meet up with other Pilgrims at coffee breaks, meal times and so on. So I was very rarely 'lonely'. Only at night sometimes, if I was the only Pilgrim staying in my accommodation.

Contrast to my most recent Camino. The Via de la Plata, followed by the Invierno. Both quite remote with not many Pilgrims. I didn't 'meet' another Pilgrim till about day 5 or 6. I was leaving at about 8:00 - 8:30 am.

But due to the heat, I decided to try pre dawn starts. This would allow me to finish walking for the day, before it got too hot. And also allow me to finish in time for a nice lunch! Menu del Dia on those routes stops about 3:00 to 3:30 pm if available.

So I changed my 'Rhythm'

And suddenly...........I met other Pilgrims!

They were out there all along, but just leaving earlier than me. I suspected so, as I had been seeing their footprints.......

My Camino changed totally.
I had 'friends' to catch up with during the day, to have meals with, to share accomodation with.......

And because my new Camino buddies were staying in Albergues.........so did I.......
Often it was the only option anyway.

Sorry to ramble on, but it might help you to understand how the Rhythm or 'heart beat' of the Camino works.

Buen Camino

Gringazolana · Jun 24, 2023

John Crawford Howell said:
On May 31, 2017, I stayed in Gonzar, a tad out of the way place east of Palos de Rei. The windows in my room opened onto a barnyard adjacent to and below my quarters. There were horses and cows aplenty doing what horses and cows do—just hanging out on a lazy afternoon with their duck and chicken pals. They were oblivious to me. I placed my trail shoes on the window sill to let them dry in the sun while I went down to the common area for snacks, beer, and dinner. When I came back to my room, approximately 50 squadrons of black flies greeted me. Yikes! This is going to be fun, I recall thinking at the time. I rolled a bath towel and played my best game of "shoo fly, don't bother me!" After 45 minutes of Quixote-like tilting at windmills, I dispatched them all from my room then closed the hallway door and the windows. However, there was one fly that wasn't going anywhere (probably the (over)lord of the flies). It stayed in the room all night to torment me. Such is life on the Camino—all part of the journey.

Lol I stayed there too!! Nice place but lotta flies. t least they’re not cockroaches!

Pathfinder075 · Jun 24, 2023

Gringazolana said:
Lol I stayed there too!! Nice place but lotta flies. t least they’re not cockroaches!

Was wasps when i stayed there in 2016. Five or six of them and the other pilgrims insisted on locking the windows, constantly. Eventually they went to dinner and I got rid of all but one wasp. A guy told me the next morning they were worried about someone climbing in a window in the night and robbing them. I laughed. I would like to see someone try and get through those windows.

Liltravlr · Jun 24, 2023

Robo said:
Ahh. Therein lies one of your challenges.
Most Pilgrims will be on the road by 8 am or earlier.
It's a combination of accommodation wanting them out, communal living waking you up, avoiding the hot part of the day etc etc.

Leaving at 9-10am (I have done that a few times) can mean you often won't see many people.
They are all half way into the days walk by then......

On my recent Camino (another route) I often started walking before dawn. 6:30 - 7:00 am.
Mainly so that I could finish walking before it got hot.
But I came to love that part of the day. Watching the sunrise is magical.
But I was usually in bed asleep by 9 pm........

It's just a different rhythm on Camino

Well, we tried today. I don’t need much sleep, but last night there was the sardine festival in Palas De Rey & they had a rock band playing until 4 AM! I couldn’t sleep through that, thought I might get two more hours, but there were also a bunch of high school students who left about 6 AM, then we got up at seven to go. Only problem is, the bag transport company only took two of our three bags, so it took us another hour and a half to call our agent and see if they were coming back or if we should take the bag ourselves to our next lodging. So, that hour and a half meant we are walking in the heat of the afternoon for sure. We will try again tomorrow.

Liltravlr · Jun 24, 2023

Robo said:
@Liltravlr Just an afterthought.

Not meant to be judgemental or anything.......

The manner in which you are walking. Time of day, accommodation types and locations, everything pre-booked. All quite understandable, as you see this as a 'vacation'.

And using the term I used above, you are probably in a different rhythm to many, if not most others.

That might be leading you to feel that you are an observer of a Pilgrimage, rather than a participant....

As an example, on my most recent Camino that I finished a month ago (my fourth), I wanted to broaden my Camino experience. On all my previous Caminos, about 100 nights, I had used private accommodation only.

Many were saying to me here, that I was missing out on a valuable part of the Camino experience. Namely staying in shared accommodation. The sense of community, communal meals etc etc.

I was very happy with my Caminos using private accommodation, but I wanted to see what the Albergue experience was all about. So I tried it. Out of 60 days on that Camino, I stayed in Albergues about 15 nights I think. I wanted to give them a 'good shot'.

So I tried a combination of Donativo, private, municipal. And it was good. I enjoyed the experience. Being a very light sleeper, I still prefer mainly private accommodation, but mixing it up was really good.

But I stayed in some great places, met wonderful people, had some nice communal meals.......
I would certainly use Albergues again without hesitation.

Another Example. Like you, I was always a bit of a late starter. Though not quite that late! I would be on the road between 7:30 - 9:00 am. I was staying in private accommodation, so there was no rush to get out before a certain time, often breakfast wasn't served till 8:00 am. I wasn't walking long distances, and I had my next night booked, so there was no rush. (I book one night ahead normally)

As a result, I would often have the solitude on the trail that I sought. This was 3 times on the Camino Frances. I would meet up with other Pilgrims at coffee breaks, meal times and so on. So I was very rarely 'lonely'. Only at night sometimes, if I was the only Pilgrim staying in my accommodation.

Contrast to my most recent Camino. The Via de la Plata, followed by the Invierno. Both quite remote with not many Pilgrims. I didn't 'meet' another Pilgrim till about day 5 or 6. I was leaving at about 8:00 - 8:30 am.

But due to the heat, I decided to try pre dawn starts. This would allow me to finish walking for the day, before it got too hot. And also allow me to finish in time for a nice lunch! Menu del Dia on those routes stops about 3:00 to 3:30 pm if available.

So I changed my 'Rhythm'

And suddenly...........I met other Pilgrims!

They were out there all along, but just leaving earlier than me. I suspected so, as I had been seeing their footprints.......

My Camino changed totally.
I had 'friends' to catch up with during the day, to have meals with, to share accomodation with.......

And because my new Camino buddies were staying in Albergues.........so did I.......
Often it was the only option anyway.

Sorry to ramble on, but it might help you to understand how the Rhythm or 'heart beat' of the Camino works.

Buen Camino

Hi, I totally get that. One reason this is more of a vacation rather than a pilgrimage for both of us is that my sister, as a nurse, worked nonstop since the beginning of Covid and this was her first vacation in three years. I as a lawyer also worked double time, 70 hours a week for several years and was burnt out, then got laid off of all things! I’m quite happy for that fact, but at the time we booked, we had only these two weeks, that’s it. We used to walk at home, about 10 K daily, but never 20 or more. We didn’t either of us have time to train for that. Also, being celiac, we simply have learned to carry some food, because there are many times and many countries where there is nothing for me to eat! Actually, it’s been very good, surprisingly; many things I can have at dinner at least, although not so much of the small bars at the side of the path. We added on a couple of extra days to see some friends in Santiago, and I wanted to bring some dresses and go dancing. As this was a first experiment, using bag transport, in hindsight, I could’ve just left my big bag in Santiago. We did stay in Albergue San Marcos last night. We were around and quite willing to be out before nine, but still nobody talked to us because it seemed everyone was in their own groups. I realize now, that I usually travel by myself! And that is why I meet more people, maybe nobody approaches when you are already with someone.

David · Jun 24, 2023

Benidorm is pleasant at this time of the year.

simoncooper99 · Jun 24, 2023

Liltravlr said:
Live from Camino, I did three years of research, this forum, YouTube, Facebook groups, etc., and there was only one mention of how many flies there are while walking. I guess it’s because of all the poop smells from the horses and cows and chickens. I would’ve bought a net. There was a huge spider in our very nice accommodation, report of bedbugs in another nice one, which was upsetting, and I did sign up to walk through small town soon countryside, but what is really surprising is people saying how crowded the Camino is this year! We literally passed five people on the whole first day, and yesterday maybe two. So I don’t know what they were talking about. One of the accommodations was supposed to pick us up when we called, they didn’t answer twice so I called a taxi, which turned out to be three times the price I was expecting, and the company we booked with will not reimburse us nor will the guest house, who said we should have called more times. We are all alone in the rural guest house with nothing to do, far from any town, rain, and roommate problems (whether to leave the TV, phone, and lights on when you go to bed, which I don’t like, snoring, expenses, etc.) I looked forward to this all during Covid and put a lot of time in, very sad and I just want to go home. I can’t even cancel and go to Barcelona or the Canaries because I won’t get any of my money back. Feeling very defeated & alone.

I am on my first camino and have experienced some of your issues. I have found that the next day something new and often better will come along. I have had some lonely moments but then the next day met some of the nicest people possible (I.e agree with me lol). Keep on going and Buen camino.

Liltravlr · Jun 24, 2023

Hi, I guess it’s like any travel. You can do your research

C clearly said:
Perhaps this is the expectation (that you still seem to have) that is in conflict with the reality of a Camino. It is not a "vacation" in the normal sense, although it is a change from the normal work routine. Some of these issues and expectations were discussed in your first forum thread from 2019.

I am glad to read that your experience is improving. This often happens with something new - at first we are anxious and trying to get oriented to the experience, and once we learn the routine, we can relax and enjoy it. Not everything is enjoyable, but if you stick with it, I'm sure you'll get satisfaction from completing the challenge and you will have many interesting stories to tell! Whether you will become a "repeat offender" or not is yet to be seen!

Please keep posting to let us know how it is going.

Hi, You can do your research and ask as many questions as possible, but in the end your experience may be different from everybody else’s. For example, I planned for a couple of years to do the “5 Stans”. I watched a lot of videos & spoke to many who had been, but don’t you find that people only tell you the good parts of their trips, not the bad? I should’ve been more aware, because although I enjoyed the five countries, nobody mentioned the horrible roads that you are on for 5 to 9 hours a day, bone jarring & painful. I hate going overland & also not fond of packing & repacking daily, so I looked for a way I could see them. I read about the snoring & I’ve used earplugs for years & they aren’t enough. I can’t go weeks without sleep, I certainly couldn’t walk 20 km a day without sleep! So I tried to find a way to still do “a” Camino. I knew it would not be the same Camino as those who do all 800 K, I accepted that. I had no spiritual reason to do that anyway, the only reason I wanted to do this was to see some small towns in Spain, and I have done that. My plan was to do 100k/year for 8 years. Why, you ask? As I told my sisters & will tell the Pilgrim Office at the end, as a cancer survivor, I can never forget that life is short & we are not guaranteed tomorrow. I wanted to have the other 700k hanging over my head (in a good way), as motivation for me to live 8 more years. It was to be a time away from work for us, & it has been that, too. One poster below seems to imply that under those terms, I should not participate, but that doesn’t appear to be in the “spirit” of the Camino, that it is for everyone.

Liltravlr · Jun 24, 2023

Y

auburnfive said:
Between the lines, I see that spending all those hours with your roomie is also part of the issue. Also, she is not happy when you “ tune out” with your phone. One suggestion is to purposely separate from her for some times ( I’d like to do some solo contemplation as I walk for a bit- I’ll meet you on ahead for coffee in___.). other pilgrims may be more inclined to chat with a solo pilgrim rather than a duo.
Advice I’ve given before, even if you go with a tour company, do not have dinners included, it’s way too restrictive.

I hear you re individual time & we did that today. We will also had no meals yesterday & did go out & had a great time in fab bar, but it really is the fact that I am not alone I feel I’m not making the effort I usually would to meet people. (I went out the first night to go dancing, leaving my sister in the hotel room, but as she had an infection, for which we spent two hours of our first day in the hospital, I felt guilty.) She also doesn’t speak Spanish, and I would feel guilty, leaving her for any length of time to get by on her own. I know it’s manageable but not sure if she does.

Liltravlr · Jun 24, 2023

ThomasFromColorado said:
Tourists demand, pilgrims thank.

I am very thankful for my legs that let me walk. Went to 2 masses to pray for others who can’t.

Liltravlr · Jun 24, 2023

T0M said:
During your three years of research, did someone reccomend this camino style? I've read about group tours where all lodging is planned, but not quite what you have designed. Most pilgrims don't spend their mornings sipping coffee and reading the paper.

Your insight later will be of value to others.

If you are thinking of giving up, I have a last-ditch suggestion: Since you have already paid for the lodging ahead of you, perhaps you should hitch-hike or taxi or uber to your destinations and be more like a tourist.

Yes, this company/style was recommended by many people when I said we couldn’t walk 20 km per day, please see my posts below for the reasons why. Many people I spoke to still suggested we could do the Camino 100k at a time. Are you saying this is not allowed?

Former member 104756 · Jun 24, 2023

Hi @Liltravlr yes, it is allowed and is what many thousands of people do. My only ‘suggestion’ would be to step away from the forum for now and focus on what remains of your camino. There have been some practical suggestions, some encouragement, some ideas to reflect on, and some harsh words. But remember - the forum is not the Camino. You are there, right now. Experience it - for better or worse - and forget about this online chatter. Best wishes for what lies ahead.

Gringazolana · Jun 24, 2023

Pathfinder075 said:
Was wasps when i stayed there in 2016. Five or six of them and the other pilgrims insisted on locking the windows, constantly. Eventually they went to dinner and I got rid of all but one wasp. A guy told me the next morning they were worried about someone climbing in a window in the night and robbing them. I laughed. I would like to see someone try and get through those windows.

Oh dear! But I can tell you that about 3 weeks ago there was a couple staying in the room next to me and they almost had to go OUT the window! They couldn’t get their door handle to unlock. It turns out that the manager had just replaced the door lock and one or two of the sliding barrels was “sticky” and required some combination of downward force and wiggling the handle in order to operate correctly. Fortunately this couple had the room next to a technical translator!

t2andreo · Jun 24, 2023

ThomasFromColorado said:
Tourists demand, pilgrims thank.

Thank you for concisely restating one of the cardinal values of the Camino - to wit (in long form):

"Tourists complain and demand - pilgrims expect little, and are grateful."

The less you expect, the more fulfilled you will be. Look after yourself, and be charitable to all those around you - the Golden Rule - and you will have a fulfilling Camino.

Hope this helps.

Tom

nilesite · Jun 24, 2023

MassNative said:
We walked last fall, right after all the fields had been "manured".

The flies were everywhere. I guess I didn't mention them is because after a week or so, I just stopped noticing them. Towards the end, there are few tilled fields, so the flies went away.

We only had one town where we felt isolated, in a small hostel, with nothing open after 2 PM. Only the one albergue down the road opened for dinner. We hit the road super early next morning and had breakfast 6k later.

Things will get better....

That sounds really amazing.

Wockin · Jun 24, 2023

Liltravlr said:
Live from Camino, I did three years of research, this forum, YouTube, Facebook groups, etc., and there was only one mention of how many flies there are while walking. I guess it’s because of all the poop smells from the horses and cows and chickens. I would’ve bought a net. There was a huge spider in our very nice accommodation, report of bedbugs in another nice one, which was upsetting, and I did sign up to walk through small towns and countryside, but what is really surprising is people saying how crowded the Camino is this year! We literally passed five people on the whole first day, and yesterday maybe two. So I don’t know what they were talking about. One of the accommodations was supposed to pick us up when we called, they didn’t answer twice so I called a taxi, which turned out to be three times the price I was expecting, and the company we booked with will not reimburse us nor will the guest house, who said we should have called more times. We are all alone in the rural guest house with nothing to do, far from any town, rain, and roommate problems (whether to leave the TV, phone, and lights on when you go to bed, which I don’t like, snoring, expenses, etc.) I looked forward to this all during Covid and put a lot of time in, very sad and I just want to go home. I can’t even cancel and go to Barcelona or the Canaries because I won’t get any of my money back. Feeling very defeated & alone.

Sorry to hear. What time are you leaving in the morning? Most people leave early and even walk in the dark for a bit . If you’re leaving at 9 maybe that’s it. I didn’t find the flies too bad but I’m from Australia and there is allot more there in the country. How many days have you traveled? It will get better!

Aysen Mustafa · Jun 24, 2023

This is one of the most bizarre posts in this forum. I feel the camino frances is definitely becoming something which I didn't experience 5 years ago. Hmm do I want to rewalk it, yes but we'll see. I walked the camino portugeuse and met holiday makers, I.e. started at 2pm and stayed up socialising until midnight. It wasn't what I was accustomed to in 2018 in the camino Frances or any other long walk I have done.

Canucks · Jun 24, 2023

I think it’s pretty obvious by now why the OP isn’t having the expected vacation she thought she would have.
A longer Camino would allow for looking inward instead of only outward.

dbier · Jun 24, 2023

Hey, all. It's her (I think) Camino; she reached out for help and reassurance. She's implementing the suggestions that could make a concrete difference.

With all due respect, her Way is not yours. If you don't have constructive suggestions, start a different thread for your lament.

Anniesantiago · Jun 24, 2023

I think a lot of people think of the Camino as a fun vacation.
To me, that isn't it at all.
I think with all the press, it's meaning has been lost.
The Camino is a PILGRIMAGE, which means LOTS of quiet time alone to pray and reflect, and not so much to socialize.
The situation the OP is describing sounds perfect to me.
To each his/her own.

Tinker · Jun 24, 2023

grayland said:
The end is near....

Worlds are colliding!

BarbaraW · Jun 24, 2023

"this company/style was recommended by many people when I said we couldn’t walk 20 km per day"

I'm wondering how that happened. Especially on the last part of the Frances there is so much accommodation that it's easy to walk less than 20 k each day. In almost 60 days altogether walking on 3 different Caminos, I only walked over 20 k on a handful of occasions. Though it would be more difficult for those wanting a specific type of accommodation, and walking at busy times.

I'm glad you are finding things better than when you first posted and hope your Camino turns out a positive experience for you and your sister..

If you feel that you'd like to walk more of the Camino Frances, it might be worth buying a guidebook - the old fashioned sort on paper - well in advance so you can get a really good feel for the route and accommodation. If it's really walking, socialising and seeing small towns in Spain that you want, there are a number of companies that organise walking tours in the country. In the UK these include Exodus, Explore and Ramblers.
Best wishes to you both.

Liltravlr · Jun 24, 2023

I have done tours with G adventures, Explore, & Intrepid, but I will look up Ramblers, thank you

Liltravlr · Jun 24, 2023

Anniesantiago said:
I think a lot of people think of the Camino as a fun vacation.
To me, that isn't it at all.
I think with all the press, it's meaning has been lost.
The Camino is a PILGRIMAGE, which means LOTS of quiet time alone to pray and reflect, and not so much to socialize.
The situation the OP is describing sounds perfect to me.
To each his/her own.

I watched 3 movies & everyone was meeting, chatting, walking & eating together. How silly to believe Hollywood! Bad me! Lesson learned. Honestly though, I did speak with five ladies about my age, all of them are quite sociable & none mentioned that I could be walking by myself. With all the reports of how crowded it was this year, I thought there would be tons of people. I’ve learned I have to get up earlier.
I have to say though, they probably did the full stage per day, and I’ve mentioned why I can’t. I also mentioned I only had two weeks. I’ve been working nonstop in Covid, mostly at home by myself online and therefore was looking for a little more socializing. Obviously, the Camino was the wrong choice.
I’m sorry, I looked at my post again, and it does seem pouty, and that is usually not me.

Liltravlr · Jun 24, 2023

Aysen Mustafa said:
This is one of the most bizarre posts in this forum. I feel the camino frances is definitely becoming something which I didn't experience 5 years ago. Hmm do I want to rewalk it, yes but we'll see. I walked the camino portugeuse and met holiday makers, I.e. started at 2pm and stayed up socialising until midnight. It wasn't what I was accustomed to in 2018 in the camino Frances or any other long walk I have done.

Sounds perfect! Can you hook me up with them?

Garethmcm · Jun 24, 2023

Liltravlr said:
Sounds perfect! Can you hook me up with them?

Hi Litravir. My advice is to get off this forum and do things your own way. The Camino is what you make it. There seem to be a few judgemental people on here.

Flog · Jun 24, 2023

Liltravlr said:
I watched 3 movies & everyone was meeting, chatting, walking & eating together. How silly to believe Hollywood! Bad me! Lesson learned. Honestly though, I did speak with five ladies about my age, all of them are quite sociable & none mentioned that I could be walking by myself. With all the reports of how crowded it was this year, I thought there would be tons of people. I’ve learned I have to get up earlier.
I have to say though, they probably did the full stage per day, and I’ve mentioned why I can’t. I also mentioned I only had two weeks. I’ve been working nonstop in Covid, mostly at home by myself online and therefore was looking for a little more socializing. Obviously, the Camino was the wrong choice.
I’m sorry, I looked at my post again, and it does seem pouty, and that is usually not me.

No need to beat yourself up about it. When you go home you'll have time to unravel it all, and if you decide to come back and walk another camino, you will have the lessons of this experience to draw on and perhaps approach it with a different mindset and without too many expectations. Perhaps even consider doing it alone, without your sister and without a tour company. The vast majority of folks do just that..

I agree with what some others have said though: get out there and enjoy what's left of it and give the internet a break, it'll be there when you get home.

wanderingvirg · Jun 24, 2023

My apologies if this is redundant, there are so many replies. When we walked last year some of our camino family were traveling with a company that put them in guest houses off the Camino. They combated that isolation by staying in the town prior to calling for a taxi or pickup and having some drinks with some of us prior to going to their provided communal dinner. That way they gained some of the camino kinship with the rest of us.

C clearly · Jun 24, 2023

Liltravlr said:
One reason this is more of a vacation rather than a pilgrimage for both of us is that my sister, as a nurse, worked nonstop since the beginning of Covid and this was her first vacation in three years. I as a lawyer also worked double time, 70 hours a week for several years and was burnt out,

Those are very good reasons for wanting a vacation, but maybe not a pilgrimage! Your challenge is to create the right amalgam of the two, to meet your needs and preferences. It sounds like you are getting there.

Also, no one has mentioned jet lag, which can sometimes play havoc with our moods for at least a few days.

T0M · Jun 24, 2023

Liltravlr said:
Yes, this company/style was recommended by many people when I said we couldn’t walk 20 km per day, please see my posts below for the reasons why. Many people I spoke to still suggested we could do the Camino 100k at a time. Are you saying this is not allowed?

Liltravlr said:
Are you saying this is not allowed?

I was not expressing an opinion on that.

Aysen Mustafa · Jun 24, 2023

Liltravlr said:
Sounds perfect! Can you hook me up with them?

They were German and probably finished their camino by now. I know you are joking but perhaps you should have switched to the Portugeuse senda litoral and spent some time on a beach.

alexwalker · Jun 24, 2023

Liltravlr said:
I watched 3 movies & everyone was meeting, chatting, walking & eating together. How silly to believe Hollywood! Bad me! Lesson learned. Honestly though, I did speak with five ladies about my age, all of them are quite sociable & none mentioned that I could be walking by myself. With all the reports of how crowded it was this year, I thought there would be tons of people. I’ve learned I have to get up earlier.
I have to say though, they probably did the full stage per day, and I’ve mentioned why I can’t. I also mentioned I only had two weeks. I’ve been working nonstop in Covid, mostly at home by myself online and therefore was looking for a little more socializing. Obviously, the Camino was the wrong choice.
I’m sorry, I looked at my post again, and it does seem pouty, and that is usually not me.

As many have informed, most albergues require the pilgrims to leave before 8AM. I think this is one reason you didn't meet many people: They were many kms ahead of you each morning. Also, to socialize properly, it is a good idea to stay in albergues, where you can make new friends, prepare dinners together, and share a glass or 3 before hitting the bed before 10PM. This is normally what pilgrims on the Camino do each day.

Good fun, and many make friends for life that way. I did.

Walk, eat, sleep, repeat, is the mantra on the Camino. And socialize by being a part of it.

As for a vacation and having good long sleeps, I would recommend Alicante by the Mediterranian Sea, or if you are interested in Roman history, Merida. But then you will miss out on some snoring and farting pilgrims in various dormitories...

Jodean · Jun 24, 2023

Coming at this from a different angle.
The Camino is a vacation for me. A vacation from doing all the stuff I normally do each day. A vacation from responsibility except for myself. A vacation where I picked & booked ahead, all the places I wanted to stay that had communal meals and the ambiance I wanted. A vacation where I can eat chocolate croissants every day for breakfast, before running out and watching the most glorious sunrises and then maybe having another chocolate croissant at lunch. EVERY DAY! A vacation where I can take all the photos I want of the fabulous scenery I am passing through, or a close up of a snail or mushroom. It doesn't get any better than that for me.
I also do not want to walk more than 20km, per day, and often just walked 12-15km. My stages, not some made up stage from a man writing a guide book.

If you want a booked tour type Camino that is made for women, try Camino Confidence next time.

Anhalter · Jun 24, 2023

Maybe a part of the loneliness issue is that pilgrims that walked wtih their packs for a couple hundred km and been happy with what accomodation was available find little common ground for socialisation for someone booking the "full service camino experience" for the stretch from Sarria.
Yes, yes, they might have their reasons and everything, and by all means they are not bad people. But the experience is just to different. From my experience, i can't remember a single meaningful conversation with somebody that started on the last 100k, and less than a handfull with people that booked their camino thru an agency.

Rebekah Scott · Jun 24, 2023

You carry the weight of Expectations, which is way too much of a load for anyone.
Sadly, the tourism industry is all about building up expectations and selling the package to unwitting consumers. The Camino was not designed to be a deluxe walking tour or a scenic hike or a pleasure trip, no matter what shapes many people want to bend it to fit. It's a demanding, wonderous pilgrimage, a long walk with a point. It's in the countryside, where there are bugs and animals and poo. Once you lay aside your expectations and adjust yourself to the shape of the environment as it presents itself, you'll catch right onto the fellowship and introspection. You will find out how truly flexible and tough and outgoing you really are... the discoveries that make this trip unique in all the world.

alexwalker · Jun 24, 2023

Rebekah Scott said:
You carry the weight of Expectations, which is way too much of a load for anyone.
Sadly, the tourism industry is all about building up expectations and selling the package to unwitting consumers. The Camino was not designed to be a deluxe walking tour or a scenic hike or a pleasure trip, no matter what shapes many people want to bend it to fit. It's a demanding, wonderous pilgrimage, a long walk with a point. It's in the countryside, where there are bugs and animals and poo. Once you lay aside your expectations and adjust yourself to the shape of the environment as it presents itself, you'll catch right onto the fellowship and introspection. You will find out how truly flexible and tough and outgoing you really are... the discoveries that make this trip unique in all the world.

Couldn't have said it better, As a holiday, it's the last thing I would have chosen. As an inner journey, personal reflection, cameraderie, and more, it is the first thing I would choose.

JCarpenter · Jun 24, 2023

It is possible that you could do that busier section without meeting many if you sta in Casas far from the camino. If your travel agent can change a few accomodations ahead to albergues, and you leave earlier you will run into people.

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LIVE from the Camino FRANCÉS: Flies, spiders, isolation & roommates: not what I expected!

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